Yet another great instructional video ! Thank you so much for all your valuable efforts. I think I can speak for the whole 918/718 (DIY) community when I say that your work is greatly appreciated. All the best for 2022 !
Great video. I have a 2012 981 which I have owned since 2016. I am a very competent DIY mechanic (ex marine engineer) Last year my roof would stop about 6 inches from being fully open and get a fault warning on the dash. I would release the close switch and operate it again and the hood would fully close. Likewise when closing, the roof would stop in the same position, I would do the same with the switch and it would fully close. However its now stopping to full open a little earlier, I do the same with the switch but this time it travels a liitle further to full open but not reaching full open position, the door glasses then go to close position. This makes me think that the control modules are being told the roof is in the fully retracted position when it isn't and thats why the window glasses then close. I am a member of the Porsche Club GB, have posted this problem twice on the forum since last summer but no one has obviously experienced what is happenning to my roof as I have had zero replies. I am handy with the multi-meter, any suggestions as to what might be casusing the problem. Thanks. I should add that when it fails to fully retract as it does now and the window glasses go up, if I flick the centre console switch to close, the roof retracts to the fully open position !!! Also, before I bought the car, the PO took the car back to Porsche and eventually had to have the control module under the left hand seat replaced as one of the roof drains became blocked and water entered the cabin which affected the control module, also one of the loom connectors had to be replaced due to severe corrosion of the cable connections. Just plugged in my iCarsoft OBD reader but nothing with the roof showing. Although operating the roof a few times and got "sockets deactivated" warning on the dashboard. I suspect my fault is also a hook issue as when the roof is retracting and stops the hook is still in the open position.
I'd have a look at the video (link below) that explains in a bit more depth what is going on with the roof logic. This might point you to where the issue lies. It does seem to point to a motor micro switch issue. That being said, there is some weird stuff going on with your car that might have something to do with the rear BCM that lives under the left seat. Never heard of a sockets deactivated warning. I'd be testing all the roof microswitches in the motors and lock to start with and also removing the left seat to check the rear BCM condition. th-cam.com/video/RNX7vJBaB5s/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Jeff. Have watched a number of your videos already. My first thought was the roof motor microswitches but am going to check the hook micro-switches first as they seem to more prone to damage, am thinking that perhaps the logics are not receiving the signal that the hook is fully in the open position therefore its not attempting to return the hook as the roof opens. I assume that roof motor micro-switches are accessible to test with the trim pulled back but obviously to replace that requires removal of the complete roof assembly. Car ahs not been used for a while, have put it on a trickle charger - think "sockets deactivated" are the 12v sockets preventing further draining of the battery should anything be plugged in. Been operating the roof a few times too without the engine running which wouldn't help. Have bookmarked your video home page. Great to have a resource of 138 videos to refer to if needed. I hate paying inflated garage bills when its a possibility I can fix it myself.
Think I found found the problem, perhaps you could confirm Jeff. Signal microswitch - open circuit at roof open in fully stored position, closed circuit as soon as it moves away from fully stored. Goes to open circuit at about 10 cms from windscreen Signal 1 microswitch - open circuit, permanently Signal 2 microswitch - open circuit from fully stored position until 40 cms from fully stored but stays at closed circuit right up to windscreen, does not go open circuit. I was a bit concerned about Signal 1 microswitch being open circuit all the time so done a recheck. Open circuit at roof fully stowed open position. I then put roof into halfway position, meter still reads open circuit but after 4-5 seconds shows closed circuit. Fully close roof, meter goes to open circuit. Put the roof back to halfway, still open circuit then after 4-5 seconds goes to closed circuit. Rechecked Signal 2 microswitch, as above, open circuit from fully stored position until 40 cms from fully stored but stays at closed circuit right up to windscreen, does not go open circuit. So seem to have 2 faults signal 1 microswitch has a delay going from open circuit to closed and back to open signal 2 microswitch not going open at windscreen. Are both left hand microswitches the same part number? Looks like a roof off job. Have just watched your pt 2 "logic" video of the roof micro-switches and it seems my signal 2 micro-switch is operating correctly according to the video. Signal m/s also seems ok, although from the roof stored position it goes closed circuit as soon as the roof moves to close. So, the only fault seems the signal 1 m/s with its delay of going from open to closed, and closed to open. The control module beneath the seat will only be 5 years old. The roof control module in the boot is over 10 years old. If its not the signal 1 micro-switch causing the fault is it possible to be the boot conrrol module.
@@keithhancock9647 Signal 2 is working OK if closed all the way to windscreen. Signal 1 having a delay is wrong. This is typical of a microswitch with degrading contacts inside, and is the first thing I'd change before looking at anything else. Signal 1 and Signal should have identical output. I'm a bit confused as signal and signal 1 are a backup of each other, and as long as one is closed that's all you need. The delay might be a switch movement issue, so it's delaying opening as well. There looks to be a problem here so this is where I'd start. I'd be removing the roof, removing the micro switches and testing in isolation. That's not hard Note only the motors themselves use the CVM. The micro switches, hook, etc all use the rear BCM, which is the one that was replaced under the seat. This is why I would remove the roof micro switches first and test in isolation rather than just replace to confirm the error is with the m/s. Micro switches aren't the same. See video below. th-cam.com/video/ntlQ4EQn0GU/w-d-xo.html Roof removal is a pretty simple process. Video here. th-cam.com/video/Iinh4mSys98/w-d-xo.html
Thanks again Jeff. Very much appreciated. Have watched your roof off video several times, can't believe how easy it seems to be. My understanding of your first roof fault diagnosis video was that SIGNAL & SIGNAL 1 microswitches work in tandem and so as long as one of them is operating correctly then the roof will function as normal. Have found an online retailer for the microswitches here in the UK and with my Porsche Club membership I can get a 5% discount only thing is they list different part numbers for LH & RH switches so assume both LH switches are the same part number. Plan to get the roof off during easter with the extra pair of hands from my son who is visiting for the weekend. Was going to order a LH microswitch to have to hand when the roof is off but may be better to wait until I can test them in isolation. By testing the microswitches from the multi-connector, surely that is testing them in "isolation" as the cables from the connector go straight to the switches anyway. Once again, thanks Jeff. Have bookmarked you youtube videos as it looks like you have covered every job on the 981. Who needs a manual when we have you videos to refer to.
Nice job, I can see from your past videos I'm not the only one with roof movement issue. I've contacted Porsche dealer too, they have checked the system and did a new calibration. The answer was now the roof works properly and we didn't find no error. Unfortunately the day after the problem came out again. I have then checked the two switches close to the hook, they look fine and no one is bent out. The strange thing is that I don't get the issue any time, sometime roof works well other times It stops at 3/4 open and I need to press again the button open or try to close and then reopen again. It's impossible do it in movement even at 30kph because i need to many attempts to open it. After many attempts and observations I saw that every time the roof works properly when i press open the hook is released and the retracted as soon as the roof starts to move backward. Instead the times it stops at 3/4 open, the hook it's still released. Who does it tell to the hook to be retracted after roof starts to move from windscreen?
I suspect that the microswitches near the motors that give the signal/signal1 indication are giving inconsistent contact. The hook is told to retract by this indication, after it has moved about 10cm from the windscreen. If it doesn't retract the hook, then at about 3/4 down the signal2 says 'hey, the hook's not retracted' so it stops the roof.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Clear, just strange it sometimes works, sometimes not. So your suggestion is to pull out the roof and change the micros on left and right side (the riveted ones). Isn't it?
Hi, after 2 years I've finally found the time to check micro switches signals. As found by another unlucky 981 owner in this comment list Signal 1 & Signal have a significant delay going from open to close. This doesn't let the hook to retract in time during roof opening. Signal 1 and Signal have exactly the same behavior, on the other hand Signal 2 it's OK. At this point I don't know if I have to change both micros or just a side ( but which?)
Thankyou for the upload , have been chasing a roof issue in a boxter, in my case roof is able to move up & down . But the hook does not extend retract , I believe that it is because of a faulty microswitch ( signal1 or 2) . Or it could be reed switch thankyou
Fantastic video Jeff! So I would like to be proactive with this issue. Any chance you could make a video on how to remove the hook mechanism so I could glue down the microswitches? (Maybe you already have a video showing that procedure) Thank you again for all your efforts! You are a real asset to the Porsche community. 👍
Thanks for the feedback. I plan to pull the roof soon and do a bunch of videos of the complete teardown. I'll include that if you like, but if you look at the video here at about the 14:30 minute mark, you want to get the glue between the black micro switch and the green circuit board so they can't move with respect to each other. All I did was put a few drops of glue at the join of the circuit board and micro switch near the pins and used a small screwdriver to poke it into the gap and blew it in a bit so I got good adhesion.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy The shots you have in this video at the 14:30 mark are wonderful, showing how to glue the microswitches. I'm just not sure how to access them. (remove the hook motor assembly)
@@mitchlewis535 Have a look at the panel and engine access video at the 20:30 mark. This is to remove the cover over the lock. Once this is off there are four torx screws that need to be removed and the lock comes free. I don't have a video of this but it's pretty obvious once you get the cover off.
Hi Jeff - remarkable detail - thank you, have fixed half a dozen things that the dealer would have taken my first born for and all seemingly obvious when you point them out! I have a roof problem too and wondered if you might point me as to where to start please? 2012 build 981, microswitches replaced in late 2020 8,000kms ago and not very many opens since - by Gold Coast dealer. Car left for 3 months whilst away, battery near flat on return. Charged fine in an hour. Roof would not move there after - rather windows drop and hook opens but no roof movement or sound of motors activating and dash fault says 'roof not in final position' - will return no problems and repeat all day long with no variation. Suspect CVM but would rather be guided by experience if you have a moment to comment please......thanks in advance. Please keep posting!
It could be a CVM issue but it's difficult to know exactly. I'd be getting a PIWIS or other diagnosis to see if there are any codes. There is a specific issue with early model CVMs that have a particular failure mode. This problem seems to have been eliminated in later model CVMs. The last two digits of the CVM part number will confirm which you have. Earliest is 01, latest 03. Unless you have had the CVM replaced I'd be pretty sure a 01 will be installed in a 2012 build car. The error codes will confirm this failure mode as some sort of temperature sensor failure. I can't remember the exact wording. If not this then it's just a case of electrically and physically checking all of the switches etc to confirm where the problem is.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy thanks Jeff. Just ordered a diagnosis tool and tracked down a 2021 CVM so might take a chance on that? I also read about someone whose diagnosis was throwing up low voltage codes/warnings which when cleared restored normal operation. This resonates a bit since my battery was discharged enough whilst away to just prevent starter motor turn over. I’m sure to have the older CVM as it wasn’t changed with the micro switches but it’s also shown no sign of faulting either? Next elimination tmrw! Thanks again for your reply…… onwards
The 718 CVM is the same unit as the latest used in the 981 as the whole roof is the same. You should be fine with it. If it won't work correctly with the engine going then it's not a voltage/battery issue. If you have any questions just ask.
Hi Jeff - have now got a PIWIS diagnostic and it is showing error codes 1001 and 1006 - left motor (right motor) - thermal protection/open circuit - if I clear them, they come back instantly. I followed a dialogue you were having with someone else with a similar problem and disconnected and re connected the battery, but also sadly to no avail. What might you suggest the next step might be? I have managed to get a replacement late 03 designation serial number convertible control unit which arrived today - might that work? Seemed to work for the other guy? Is there a point in your video that shows how to remove and replace the control unit please? Thank you for your guidance (and great videos) @@jeffrichardsoncardiy
@@user-nm5zn2wk3o I'd be surprised if the new CVM didn't fix it, as that's the only fix I know for this issue. I don't think there is a place on the video that shows removal of the cvm, but you need to get a screwdriver behind it and unclip the three clips at the back and slide it sideways. Have a look at the new one for where they are. Also, it's easiest if you remove the relays that sit in front of it first. Have a look here for how. th-cam.com/video/qrXSHNrOwmU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=lRw5J7Y9vCpX2u2N&t=154
Thanks for your great tutorials. Unfortunately my hook motor has given up. It just hums but the top doesn't open anymore. I removed the panel and the electric motor got really hot. You can't even touch it. Now the question, there are replacement motors with everything on eBay, but these are specified for the 718. But they look completely identical, do you know if they fit the 981 too?
Excellent video! My wife's '16 Boxster top will intermittently only partially open, about 6", and stop. Fault message "roof control fault, service required". I can cycle through the top switch or cycle through the ignition switch, and to date that has fixed the problem. As an FYI, the hook seems to be operating normally. Based on your video, I'm thinking I should look at the motor micro-switch first. Your thoughts?
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy to test or replace the motor micro switch, I assume I need the roof in the service position and remove the liner behind the seats? I saw your video regarding the roff service position. Do you have anything on removing the panel, or what's needed to gain access to motor micro switches?
@@Missin44 To check the micros you only need to unlock the motors so you can move the roof by hand. Service position is so you can get access to the engine bay or to remove the roof entirely. To change the micros will required roof removal. Rear carpet removal here. Later on in this video has unlocking of the roof motors: th-cam.com/video/oUzG7qTyAnQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi Jeff, I have to commend you on your videos and the detail you provide. I was hoping you might be able to help me with my roof problem on my 2014 981 Boxster S. When the car is stationary, whether it is locked or not and the roof is shut it opens on it's own, sometimes after 1 hour or 1 day, it varies heaps. It has got to the point that I can't risk taking it out and leaving it unattended. Any ideas that you might have that could make troubleshooting the problem easier would be much appreciated. Regards, JR.
Very informative video, I just got in a 2013 boxster 10k miles on it..... and when I open the roof it open 3/4 of the way and then stops, interestingly Porsche dealer passed on this car due to this issue ad they disclosed the (doesnt open all the way at auction) however I was able to figure out how to open the roof as I get to 3/4 open and the roof stops I release the open button then pull the close button for a moment and the roof retracts to fully open and fold down 100%. When I close the roof it stops half way and displays roof close failure, however I release and pull the close button again and it closes all the way. I'm was thinking it's the switch but upon watching your video the microchip dislocation may very well be the culprit as well. What are you thoughts
Hi quick question. I’ve got no hook drive. When I manually wind the hook back the motors drive to half way and lock off as the hook hasn’t withdraw. Micro switches checked any idea. Windows go down the hook just doesn’t drive
Thank you for posting this most informative video , I'm still not out the woods yet with mine it unlatches but no hint of opening checked all the front micro switches and one was raised fixed but still no joy ,does the system need a reset after a fault ? or is it more likely the riveted micro switches? both motors run fine when powered up with the hood in service mode . any hints would be much appreciated
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy yes all tested as per your advice, eventually bought a cheapish Porsche scanner (icarsoft) and found fault codes 001001 and 001006 which means a temperature limiter fault could not clear this, so bought a second hand module (in the boot ) about 5 mins to change and viola a working roof thanks again for you posting
Jeff Great Video. I think my convertible top control unit is bad. If i purchase a new one, do i need to program it, or is it something I can just plug in?
Have you been able to put diagnostics on it to see what errors there are. There are some failures of earlier model CVMs. The last two digits in the part number are either 01, 02, or 03, as Porsche have improved the unit over time. I've heard of the 01s failing. They are plug and play. No coding required. Any part number can go in any car.
It's in the rear boot behind the liner. Take a look at my roof removal video at the 7:30 mark. I'd be disconnecting the battery. Link here: th-cam.com/video/Iinh4mSys98/w-d-xo.html
![[Watch Party] RoV Pro League 2024 Winter | with Moowan ( Bacon Time Vs Talon )](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CCEDhu6dPN8/mqdefault.jpg)
Yet another great instructional video ! Thank you so much for all your valuable efforts. I think I can speak for the whole 918/718 (DIY) community when I say that your work is greatly appreciated. All the best for 2022 !
Thanks for the feedback. Glad to hear that it's helping. Have a great year.
Great video. I have a 2012 981 which I have owned since 2016. I am a very competent DIY mechanic (ex marine engineer) Last year my roof would stop about 6 inches from being fully open and get a fault warning on the dash. I would release the close switch and operate it again and the hood would fully close. Likewise when closing, the roof would stop in the same position, I would do the same with the switch and it would fully close. However its now stopping to full open a little earlier, I do the same with the switch but this time it travels a liitle further to full open but not reaching full open position, the door glasses then go to close position. This makes me think that the control modules are being told the roof is in the fully retracted position when it isn't and thats why the window glasses then close. I am a member of the Porsche Club GB, have posted this problem twice on the forum since last summer but no one has obviously experienced what is happenning to my roof as I have had zero replies. I am handy with the multi-meter, any suggestions as to what might be casusing the problem. Thanks.
I should add that when it fails to fully retract as it does now and the window glasses go up, if I flick the centre console switch to close, the roof retracts to the fully open position !!!
Also, before I bought the car, the PO took the car back to Porsche and eventually had to have the control module under the left hand seat replaced as one of the roof drains became blocked and water entered the cabin which affected the control module, also one of the loom connectors had to be replaced due to severe corrosion of the cable connections.
Just plugged in my iCarsoft OBD reader but nothing with the roof showing.
Although operating the roof a few times and got "sockets deactivated" warning on the dashboard.
I suspect my fault is also a hook issue as when the roof is retracting and stops the hook is still in the open position.
I'd have a look at the video (link below) that explains in a bit more depth what is going on with the roof logic. This might point you to where the issue lies. It does seem to point to a motor micro switch issue.
That being said, there is some weird stuff going on with your car that might have something to do with the rear BCM that lives under the left seat. Never heard of a sockets deactivated warning.
I'd be testing all the roof microswitches in the motors and lock to start with and also removing the left seat to check the rear BCM condition.
th-cam.com/video/RNX7vJBaB5s/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Jeff. Have watched a number of your videos already. My first thought was the roof motor microswitches but am going to check the hook micro-switches first as they seem to more prone to damage, am thinking that perhaps the logics are not receiving the signal that the hook is fully in the open position therefore its not attempting to return the hook as the roof opens. I assume that roof motor micro-switches are accessible to test with the trim pulled back but obviously to replace that requires removal of the complete roof assembly.
Car ahs not been used for a while, have put it on a trickle charger - think "sockets deactivated" are the 12v sockets preventing further draining of the battery should anything be plugged in. Been operating the roof a few times too without the engine running which wouldn't help. Have bookmarked your video home page. Great to have a resource of 138 videos to refer to if needed. I hate paying inflated garage bills when its a possibility I can fix it myself.
Think I found found the problem, perhaps you could confirm Jeff.
Signal microswitch - open circuit at roof open in fully stored position, closed circuit as soon as it moves away from fully stored. Goes to open circuit at about 10 cms from windscreen
Signal 1 microswitch - open circuit, permanently
Signal 2 microswitch - open circuit from fully stored position until 40 cms from fully stored but stays at closed circuit right up to windscreen, does not go open circuit.
I was a bit concerned about Signal 1 microswitch being open circuit all the time so done a recheck.
Open circuit at roof fully stowed open position.
I then put roof into halfway position, meter still reads open circuit but after 4-5 seconds shows closed circuit.
Fully close roof, meter goes to open circuit.
Put the roof back to halfway, still open circuit then after 4-5 seconds goes to closed circuit.
Rechecked Signal 2 microswitch, as above, open circuit from fully stored position until 40 cms from fully stored but stays at closed circuit right up to windscreen, does not go open circuit.
So seem to have 2 faults
signal 1 microswitch has a delay going from open circuit to closed and back to open
signal 2 microswitch not going open at windscreen.
Are both left hand microswitches the same part number?
Looks like a roof off job.
Have just watched your pt 2 "logic" video of the roof micro-switches and it seems my signal 2 micro-switch is operating correctly according to the video.
Signal m/s also seems ok, although from the roof stored position it goes closed circuit as soon as the roof moves to close.
So, the only fault seems the signal 1 m/s with its delay of going from open to closed, and closed to open.
The control module beneath the seat will only be 5 years old.
The roof control module in the boot is over 10 years old.
If its not the signal 1 micro-switch causing the fault is it possible to be the boot conrrol module.
@@keithhancock9647 Signal 2 is working OK if closed all the way to windscreen.
Signal 1 having a delay is wrong. This is typical of a microswitch with degrading contacts inside, and is the first thing I'd change before looking at anything else. Signal 1 and Signal should have identical output.
I'm a bit confused as signal and signal 1 are a backup of each other, and as long as one is closed that's all you need. The delay might be a switch movement issue, so it's delaying opening as well. There looks to be a problem here so this is where I'd start. I'd be removing the roof, removing the micro switches and testing in isolation. That's not hard
Note only the motors themselves use the CVM. The micro switches, hook, etc all use the rear BCM, which is the one that was replaced under the seat. This is why I would remove the roof micro switches first and test in isolation rather than just replace to confirm the error is with the m/s.
Micro switches aren't the same. See video below.
th-cam.com/video/ntlQ4EQn0GU/w-d-xo.html
Roof removal is a pretty simple process. Video here.
th-cam.com/video/Iinh4mSys98/w-d-xo.html
Thanks again Jeff. Very much appreciated. Have watched your roof off video several times, can't believe how easy it seems to be. My understanding of your first roof fault diagnosis video was that SIGNAL & SIGNAL 1 microswitches work in tandem and so as long as one of them is operating correctly then the roof will function as normal. Have found an online retailer for the microswitches here in the UK and with my Porsche Club membership I can get a 5% discount only thing is they list different part numbers for LH & RH switches so assume both LH switches are the same part number. Plan to get the roof off during easter with the extra pair of hands from my son who is visiting for the weekend. Was going to order a LH microswitch to have to hand when the roof is off but may be better to wait until I can test them in isolation. By testing the microswitches from the multi-connector, surely that is testing them in "isolation" as the cables from the connector go straight to the switches anyway.
Once again, thanks Jeff. Have bookmarked you youtube videos as it looks like you have covered every job on the 981. Who needs a manual when we have you videos to refer to.
Nice job, I can see from your past videos I'm not the only one with roof movement issue. I've contacted Porsche dealer too, they have checked the system and did a new calibration. The answer was now the roof works properly and we didn't find no error. Unfortunately the day after the problem came out again. I have then checked the two switches close to the hook, they look fine and no one is bent out. The strange thing is that I don't get the issue any time, sometime roof works well other times It stops at 3/4 open and I need to press again the button open or try to close and then reopen again. It's impossible do it in movement even at 30kph because i need to many attempts to open it. After many attempts and observations I saw that every time the roof works properly when i press open the hook is released and the retracted as soon as the roof starts to move backward. Instead the times it stops at 3/4 open, the hook it's still released. Who does it tell to the hook to be retracted after roof starts to move from windscreen?
I suspect that the microswitches near the motors that give the signal/signal1 indication are giving inconsistent contact. The hook is told to retract by this indication, after it has moved about 10cm from the windscreen. If it doesn't retract the hook, then at about 3/4 down the signal2 says 'hey, the hook's not retracted' so it stops the roof.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Clear, just strange it sometimes works, sometimes not. So your suggestion is to pull out the roof and change the micros on left and right side (the riveted ones). Isn't it?
Hi, after 2 years I've finally found the time to check micro switches signals. As found by another unlucky 981 owner in this comment list Signal 1 & Signal have a significant delay going from open to close. This doesn't let the hook to retract in time during roof opening. Signal 1 and Signal have exactly the same behavior, on the other hand Signal 2 it's OK. At this point I don't know if I have to change both micros or just a side ( but which?)
Thankyou for the upload , have been chasing a roof issue in a boxter, in my case roof is able to move up & down . But the hook does not extend retract , I believe that it is because of a faulty microswitch ( signal1 or 2) . Or it could be reed switch
thankyou
Fantastic video Jeff! So I would like to be proactive with this issue. Any chance you could make a video on how to remove the hook mechanism so I could glue down the microswitches? (Maybe you already have a video showing that procedure) Thank you again for all your efforts! You are a real asset to the Porsche community. 👍
Thanks for the feedback.
I plan to pull the roof soon and do a bunch of videos of the complete teardown. I'll include that if you like, but if you look at the video here at about the 14:30 minute mark, you want to get the glue between the black micro switch and the green circuit board so they can't move with respect to each other. All I did was put a few drops of glue at the join of the circuit board and micro switch near the pins and used a small screwdriver to poke it into the gap and blew it in a bit so I got good adhesion.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy The shots you have in this video at the 14:30 mark are wonderful, showing how to glue the microswitches. I'm just not sure how to access them. (remove the hook motor assembly)
@@mitchlewis535 Have a look at the panel and engine access video at the 20:30 mark. This is to remove the cover over the lock. Once this is off there are four torx screws that need to be removed and the lock comes free. I don't have a video of this but it's pretty obvious once you get the cover off.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Oh That sounds pretty easy. Thank you Jeff. 🙂
Hi Jeff - remarkable detail - thank you, have fixed half a dozen things that the dealer would have taken my first born for and all seemingly obvious when you point them out! I have a roof problem too and wondered if you might point me as to where to start please? 2012 build 981, microswitches replaced in late 2020 8,000kms ago and not very many opens since - by Gold Coast dealer. Car left for 3 months whilst away, battery near flat on return. Charged fine in an hour. Roof would not move there after - rather windows drop and hook opens but no roof movement or sound of motors activating and dash fault says 'roof not in final position' - will return no problems and repeat all day long with no variation. Suspect CVM but would rather be guided by experience if you have a moment to comment please......thanks in advance. Please keep posting!
It could be a CVM issue but it's difficult to know exactly. I'd be getting a PIWIS or other diagnosis to see if there are any codes. There is a specific issue with early model CVMs that have a particular failure mode. This problem seems to have been eliminated in later model CVMs. The last two digits of the CVM part number will confirm which you have. Earliest is 01, latest 03. Unless you have had the CVM replaced I'd be pretty sure a 01 will be installed in a 2012 build car. The error codes will confirm this failure mode as some sort of temperature sensor failure. I can't remember the exact wording. If not this then it's just a case of electrically and physically checking all of the switches etc to confirm where the problem is.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy thanks Jeff. Just ordered a diagnosis tool and tracked down a 2021 CVM so might take a chance on that? I also read about someone whose diagnosis was throwing up low voltage codes/warnings which when cleared restored normal operation. This resonates a bit since my battery was discharged enough whilst away to just prevent starter motor turn over. I’m sure to have the older CVM as it wasn’t changed with the micro switches but it’s also shown no sign of faulting either? Next elimination tmrw! Thanks again for your reply…… onwards
The 718 CVM is the same unit as the latest used in the 981 as the whole roof is the same. You should be fine with it. If it won't work correctly with the engine going then it's not a voltage/battery issue. If you have any questions just ask.
Hi Jeff - have now got a PIWIS diagnostic and it is showing error codes 1001 and 1006 - left motor (right motor) - thermal protection/open circuit - if I clear them, they come back instantly. I followed a dialogue you were having with someone else with a similar problem and disconnected and re connected the battery, but also sadly to no avail. What might you suggest the next step might be? I have managed to get a replacement late 03 designation serial number convertible control unit which arrived today - might that work? Seemed to work for the other guy? Is there a point in your video that shows how to remove and replace the control unit please? Thank you for your guidance (and great videos) @@jeffrichardsoncardiy
@@user-nm5zn2wk3o I'd be surprised if the new CVM didn't fix it, as that's the only fix I know for this issue. I don't think there is a place on the video that shows removal of the cvm, but you need to get a screwdriver behind it and unclip the three clips at the back and slide it sideways. Have a look at the new one for where they are. Also, it's easiest if you remove the relays that sit in front of it first. Have a look here for how.
th-cam.com/video/qrXSHNrOwmU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=lRw5J7Y9vCpX2u2N&t=154
Thanks for your great tutorials. Unfortunately my hook motor has given up. It just hums but the top doesn't open anymore. I removed the panel and the electric motor got really hot. You can't even touch it. Now the question, there are replacement motors with everything on eBay, but these are specified for the 718. But they look completely identical, do you know if they fit the 981 too?
The 718 and 981 roof are identical, so I can't see why a motor for the 718 won't fit.
Excellent video! My wife's '16 Boxster top will intermittently only partially open, about 6", and stop. Fault message "roof control fault, service required". I can cycle through the top switch or cycle through the ignition switch, and to date that has fixed the problem. As an FYI, the hook seems to be operating normally. Based on your video, I'm thinking I should look at the motor micro-switch first.
Your thoughts?
Definitely sounds like a motor micro switch issue. Easy enough to check if you are handy with a multimeter.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy to test or replace the motor micro switch, I assume I need the roof in the service position and remove the liner behind the seats? I saw your video regarding the roff service position. Do you have anything on removing the panel, or what's needed to gain access to motor micro switches?
@@Missin44 To check the micros you only need to unlock the motors so you can move the roof by hand. Service position is so you can get access to the engine bay or to remove the roof entirely. To change the micros will required roof removal.
Rear carpet removal here. Later on in this video has unlocking of the roof motors: th-cam.com/video/oUzG7qTyAnQ/w-d-xo.html
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy many thanks
Hi Jeff, I have to commend you on your videos and the detail you provide. I was hoping you might be able to help me with my roof problem on my 2014 981 Boxster S.
When the car is stationary, whether it is locked or not and the roof is shut it opens on it's own, sometimes after 1 hour or 1 day, it varies heaps. It has got to the point that I can't risk taking it out and leaving it unattended. Any ideas that you might have that could make troubleshooting the problem easier would be much appreciated. Regards, JR.
G'day JR, send me an email to jjrichar12@gmail.com and we can discuss there. It might take a bit of working through.
Very informative video, I just got in a 2013 boxster 10k miles on it..... and when I open the roof it open 3/4 of the way and then stops, interestingly Porsche dealer passed on this car due to this issue ad they disclosed the (doesnt open all the way at auction) however I was able to figure out how to open the roof as I get to 3/4 open and the roof stops I release the open button then pull the close button for a moment and the roof retracts to fully open and fold down 100%. When I close the roof it stops half way and displays roof close failure, however I release and pull the close button again and it closes all the way.
I'm was thinking it's the switch but upon watching your video the microchip dislocation may very well be the culprit as well.
What are you thoughts
It's hard to know until you start pulling thing apart and testing. It is however a likely failure point and the first place I'd start.
My convertible top stops half way either opening or closing, does anyone have a solution for this? Any help would be appreciated :) Thanks a lot
Keep it up.
Hi quick question. I’ve got no hook drive. When I manually wind the hook back the motors drive to half way and lock off as the hook hasn’t withdraw. Micro switches checked any idea. Windows go down the hook just doesn’t drive
did u find solution i am having same issue
Left hand fuse box . Fuse b7 was missing. Very strange
Thank you for posting this most informative video , I'm still not out the woods yet with mine it unlatches but no hint of opening checked all the front micro switches and one was raised fixed but still no joy ,does the system need a reset after a fault ? or is it more likely the riveted micro switches? both motors run fine when powered up with the hood in service mode . any hints would be much appreciated
Have you tested the riveted micros as per the video?
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy yes all tested as per your advice, eventually bought a cheapish Porsche scanner (icarsoft) and found fault codes 001001 and 001006 which means a temperature limiter fault could not clear this, so bought a second hand module (in the boot ) about 5 mins to change and viola a working roof thanks again for you posting
@@georgemobbley Great to hear you have solve the problem
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Hey mate, run into similar issue. Did you purchase the Convertible Roof Control Module ECU 98161812101?
Jeff Great Video. I think my convertible top control unit is bad. If i purchase a new one, do i need to program it, or is it something I can just plug in?
Have you been able to put diagnostics on it to see what errors there are. There are some failures of earlier model CVMs. The last two digits in the part number are either 01, 02, or 03, as Porsche have improved the unit over time. I've heard of the 01s failing. They are plug and play. No coding required. Any part number can go in any car.
@@jeffrichardsoncardiy Thanks, that is good news. Should i keep the battery attached while i change it or should i disconnect?
Where exactly is the CVM located? behind the seats?
It's in the rear boot behind the liner. Take a look at my roof removal video at the 7:30 mark. I'd be disconnecting the battery. Link here: th-cam.com/video/Iinh4mSys98/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the help. I will try to fix this weekend
Hi Mate,
Where your garge in Australia??
I'm not a mechanic if that's what you are asking. I just do my own DIY. I live north of Newcastle in NSW