THANK YOU SO MUCH REUSEFULL! I now have a battery operated 24" chainsaw!!!😁😁😁 When my bar arrived; I tried it on; and it DIDN'T FIT! But then I remembered that you said you had to 'fiddle' with it. So I settled myself down and tried again; with 100% success! I'm happy as a kid at Christmas! ...and yes! The E-ring went to God know's where!😂(yes I had ordered spares for just such an occasion).
@@reusefullOops! I just made two cuts through Locust wood. On the second cut; the saw: 'downshifted' to a slower speed. After the two cuts; my 12ah battery has TWO bars left! AND; there's oil pouring out onto the side cover. Did I miss a step? Do you have any idea where the oil is coming from? The chain appears to be getting enough oil. I say that because of it's blued steel appearance. I've seen what a dry chain looks like when the oil hole is blocked. I checked for oil flow before I made my first cut. It didn't really look like there was enough coming out compared to what the 20" bar 'sling off' looked like when I first got the saw. I'm thinking I should take it apart and have a look see; but I'll wait until you reply in case you already know what to do.
@John-cj3ve I think it's easier for it to get blocked in that configuration. I've had the oil leak out like that a couple times. I took the bar off and blew everything clean with an air hose to make sure there wasn't any wood chunks blocking anything.
Thanks again for being so responsive! I was kinda wondering if maybe the bar had gotten plugged. I'll take it apart and check. What do you think about my 12ah battery only having 2 bars left after two cuts! Do you think it was because I was cutting Locust wood?
@John-cj3ve not sure about the locust wood... I get that fast drain thing whenever I'm using it hot and heavy. I'm not sure if I said this before or not, but I think full skip is easier on the saw and I discovered in the chain test that the C83 Xcut was the best full comp. I was thinking to try the C83S Xcut to see how that was, but I haven't yet.
THAT would be really cool. I've been thinking about picking up one of those and swapping the sprocket out for a .325 one; to used the bar from the CSX5000; and ALL the 20".325 chains I've purchased! One; (of the many); thing I am curious about is the speed and endurance capabilities of the CS2000 with a 5ah battery. I mean; how much different is the CS2000 from the CSX5000? I think the comparisons would make for a really cool video! Also; I know I keep harping on it; but compare; performance wise; the CS2000 to the CS1800. I still think that 18" saw packs a lot of power for the price. There's GOTTA be a 20" bar somewhere that will fit this saw!
I found the Husqvarna bar online! It's supposed to arrive Monday! I have the 3/8 drive spur; (I hope it's the right one), and the 84dl chain, and some spare e-clips. Hopefully I'll have a battery operated 24" chainsaw by Monday!
thanks for sharing. If you can share more info on how you plug the oil port on that one bar that would be helpful. Im working on fitting up a stihl lightweight bar, onto an oregon K049 mount geometry - but the oiler doesnt fit. seems like im going to have to cut the bar / seal the old hole
Kinda off topic... I had asked you earlier about a 20" bar for an EGO CS1800. I just pulled the side cover off to clean it; and I noticed that it oils through the tensioner hole like a Greenworks. The only reason I am mentioning this here; is because you might have to try a 20" Greenworks bar; should you ever decide to undertake this project. Also there's that unique tensioning 'puck' to take into consideration. And the CS1800 doesn't use a rim sprocket. Idk what the other type is called. It looks like an open gear.
It's a little more to get at it, but at least in the Greenworks, you can swap the whole drum out and change over to the other style drive sprocket. I don't have the Ego CS1800 in front of me, but it looks similar on a parts diagram.
Any idea if either of those bars are a K095 mount? I'm looking hard at the Ego, but I'm quite fond of Oregon's SpeedCut narrow kerf setup and am trying to figure out if it would be compatible. Thanks either way.
Weird. I got the 20" bar at a local saw shop for $10 of a used saw. They had quite a few bars around. Maybe there's a place near you like that you could try and bring the Ego with you to make sure the bar mounts up.
Honestly, I don't know. I haven't messed with the Stihl saws much. Mostly Husky on the gas side. The Stihls in my videos are borrowed. Next time I borrow one, I'll pay closer attention.
Stihl saw bars are compatible with the e-matic system (they have a passage between the holes), but with modification (it is necessary to expand the large hole to the upper limit of the oil supply). You may need to shorten the chain by one link. For example, 3003 000 7831 25" 3/8, 1.3 mm, 83 (!) links, without modification 3005 000 4809 14" 3.8, 1.3 mm, 52 (!), and not 50, like on a stihl chainsaw.
Thank you, I have a bar, sprocket and ripping chain 63 PMX 84-36140000084 (for the Sithl: 25" 1.3 mm, 3/8") but not the chainsaw I rent from time to time, and I was thinking of buying a cordless chainsaw, since I have other ego power tools, and I was wondering if I could use it. From Italy...🇮🇹
I did a test; and it didn't deliver the results I was hoping for. Regarding the CSX5000 gushing oil out the side cover with the 24" Husqvarna bar on. I got a tube of Dykem Hi Spot; and removed the bar and chain; and wiped down the bar. Next I wiped off the saw and put some Hi Spot on the oil port of the saw; hoping there would be some misalignment with the hole in the bar that I could fix with a grinder. No joy; the alignment looked good enough for me. Maybe YOU'D like to try that test; and see what YOUR results are. Have you investigated this issue further? Did you FIX it?
@John-cj3ve I have some trees I've been retrieving out of the woods with the saws and a battery winch. Nothing huge, but it's been challenging. I would like to test the CS2000 against the CSX5000 in the near future on some of the trees to see the differences in action.
I took another look at the Ego bar set up. I noticed that the Ego bar has cuts in the tension holes, so that the top hole that isn't being used for tensioning can line up with the oil trough. I wondered why the oil trough had the dog leg in it, and now I'm thinking it's so that it can oil from 2 points, the traditional oiling hole AND the upper tensioning hole. The 24 inch Oregon/Husky bar has larger tensioning holes and they aren't cut to be able to move oil to the bar... I'm thinking maybe oil is pushing out through that upper unused tensioning hole that is larger than the hole in the Ego bar. I'm not sure how to test that theory, but I have a couple of ideas.
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THANK YOU SO MUCH REUSEFULL! I now have a battery operated 24" chainsaw!!!😁😁😁
When my bar arrived; I tried it on; and it DIDN'T FIT!
But then I remembered that you said you had to 'fiddle' with it. So I settled myself down and tried again; with 100% success!
I'm happy as a kid at Christmas!
...and yes! The E-ring went to God know's where!😂(yes I had ordered spares for just such an occasion).
Almost seems unavoidable! Good deal👍
@@reusefullOops! I just made two cuts through Locust wood. On the second cut; the saw: 'downshifted' to a slower speed.
After the two cuts; my 12ah battery has TWO bars left! AND; there's oil pouring out onto the side cover.
Did I miss a step? Do you have any idea where the oil is coming from?
The chain appears to be getting enough oil. I say that because of it's blued steel appearance. I've seen what a dry chain looks like when the oil hole is blocked.
I checked for oil flow before I made my first cut. It didn't really look like there was enough coming out compared to what the 20" bar 'sling off' looked like when I first got the saw.
I'm thinking I should take it apart and have a look see; but I'll wait until you reply in case you already know what to do.
@John-cj3ve I think it's easier for it to get blocked in that configuration. I've had the oil leak out like that a couple times. I took the bar off and blew everything clean with an air hose to make sure there wasn't any wood chunks blocking anything.
Thanks again for being so responsive! I was kinda wondering if maybe the bar had gotten plugged.
I'll take it apart and check.
What do you think about my 12ah battery only having 2 bars left after two cuts!
Do you think it was because I was cutting Locust wood?
@John-cj3ve not sure about the locust wood... I get that fast drain thing whenever I'm using it hot and heavy. I'm not sure if I said this before or not, but I think full skip is easier on the saw and I discovered in the chain test that the C83 Xcut was the best full comp. I was thinking to try the C83S Xcut to see how that was, but I haven't yet.
THAT would be really cool. I've been thinking about picking up one of those and swapping the sprocket out for a .325 one; to used the bar from the CSX5000; and ALL the 20".325 chains I've purchased!
One; (of the many); thing I am curious about is the speed and endurance capabilities of the CS2000 with a 5ah battery.
I mean; how much different is the CS2000 from the CSX5000?
I think the comparisons would make for a really cool video!
Also; I know I keep harping on it; but compare; performance wise; the CS2000 to the CS1800. I still think that 18" saw packs a lot of power for the price.
There's GOTTA be a 20" bar somewhere that will fit this saw!
@reusefull I WAS thinking about that, but I'd just have to make sure the oiler holes lined up too.
I found the Husqvarna bar online! It's supposed to arrive Monday! I have the 3/8 drive spur; (I hope it's the right one), and the 84dl chain, and some spare e-clips.
Hopefully I'll have a battery operated 24" chainsaw by Monday!
thanks for sharing. If you can share more info on how you plug the oil port on that one bar that would be helpful. Im working on fitting up a stihl lightweight bar, onto an oregon K049 mount geometry - but the oiler doesnt fit. seems like im going to have to cut the bar / seal the old hole
I think I had a couple other videos on it. I stuffed tire patch in and put masking tape over the hole. Jorg soldered the holes on his.
Kinda off topic...
I had asked you earlier about a 20" bar for an EGO CS1800.
I just pulled the side cover off to clean it; and I noticed that it oils through the tensioner hole like a Greenworks.
The only reason I am mentioning this here; is because you might have to try a 20" Greenworks bar; should you ever decide to undertake this project.
Also there's that unique tensioning 'puck' to take into consideration.
And the CS1800 doesn't use a rim sprocket. Idk what the other type is called. It looks like an open gear.
It's a little more to get at it, but at least in the Greenworks, you can swap the whole drum out and change over to the other style drive sprocket. I don't have the Ego CS1800 in front of me, but it looks similar on a parts diagram.
Any idea if either of those bars are a K095 mount? I'm looking hard at the Ego, but I'm quite fond of Oregon's SpeedCut narrow kerf setup and am trying to figure out if it would be compatible. Thanks either way.
I believe it's the K095. It's whatever the bar with the tailstock that fits a Husqvarna 455/460
Thanks I’m wondering if I can put an Ego 18” bar on the cs2005 model. Do you know?
I apologize, but I don't know. I haven't checked out the cs2000 yet.
My Oregon bar didn't line up like that Husqvarna bar does. I couldn't get the adjusting pin to line up with the hole in the bar.
Weird. I got the 20" bar at a local saw shop for $10 of a used saw. They had quite a few bars around. Maybe there's a place near you like that you could try and bring the Ego with you to make sure the bar mounts up.
I was thinking... if it's close, you could just hog the holes out until it fits also. It's strange that they don't fit though.
@@reusefull now I'm wondering if I just didn't try hard enough with that other bar...
Regarding the 3/8 20" bar; how many drive links is the chain that fits this setup?
ALSO; is it 3/8, or 3/8 lp?
I used a standard 72l chain.
Are chainsaws compatible with the Stihl attachment?
Honestly, I don't know. I haven't messed with the Stihl saws much. Mostly Husky on the gas side. The Stihls in my videos are borrowed. Next time I borrow one, I'll pay closer attention.
Stihl saw bars are compatible with the e-matic system (they have a passage between the holes), but with modification (it is necessary to expand the large hole to the upper limit of the oil supply). You may need to shorten the chain by one link. For example, 3003 000 7831 25" 3/8, 1.3 mm, 83 (!) links, without modification 3005 000 4809 14" 3.8, 1.3 mm, 52 (!), and not 50, like on a stihl chainsaw.
Thank you, I have a bar, sprocket and ripping chain 63 PMX 84-36140000084 (for the Sithl: 25" 1.3 mm, 3/8") but not the chainsaw I rent from time to time, and I was thinking of buying a cordless chainsaw, since I have other ego power tools, and I was wondering if I could use it. From Italy...🇮🇹
@@NBa-06Jorg @Tihiroprjckuh9000 has more experience with this than anyone else I've seen on TH-cam
I did a test; and it didn't deliver the results I was hoping for. Regarding the CSX5000 gushing oil out the side cover with the 24" Husqvarna bar on. I got a tube of Dykem Hi Spot; and removed the bar and chain; and wiped down the bar. Next I wiped off the saw and put some Hi Spot on the oil port of the saw; hoping there would be some misalignment with the hole in the bar that I could fix with a grinder.
No joy; the alignment looked good enough for me.
Maybe YOU'D like to try that test; and see what YOUR results are.
Have you investigated this issue further? Did you FIX it?
I'll take a closer look.
Thx. It sure is fun having a real logging saw😁
@John-cj3ve I have some trees I've been retrieving out of the woods with the saws and a battery winch. Nothing huge, but it's been challenging. I would like to test the CS2000 against the CSX5000 in the near future on some of the trees to see the differences in action.
I took another look at the Ego bar set up. I noticed that the Ego bar has cuts in the tension holes, so that the top hole that isn't being used for tensioning can line up with the oil trough. I wondered why the oil trough had the dog leg in it, and now I'm thinking it's so that it can oil from 2 points, the traditional oiling hole AND the upper tensioning hole. The 24 inch Oregon/Husky bar has larger tensioning holes and they aren't cut to be able to move oil to the bar... I'm thinking maybe oil is pushing out through that upper unused tensioning hole that is larger than the hole in the Ego bar.
I'm not sure how to test that theory, but I have a couple of ideas.
So how in the world do we put the cuts in those holes? What kind of tool has a size less than the kerf of the bar?