That video was very helpful. I didn't know about the torque specifications but will get that chart. Thank you for that. But one thing I did know is to never put the Teflon tape on over the end of the fitting. The tape can get into the system and plug up orifices and valves.Thank you for this one! Seems like I can always learn something.
It looks like a little over 1 1/2 turns with the torque wrench, on the first fitting. I also do not like the turn method, looked like those were to tight. What are you building?
Ok, I have to do something for the slide on the flail mower I just bought. Thought about using the feeds for the bucket, but would like to keep the front-end loader on the tractor when doing the fields to pick up stones.
@@SoatMon Getting closer to looking at the project of adding a "third function" for the slide on the flail mower. There is a "kit" for LS tractors, but $1,000. Surly it can be done for less??? I need to understand the ports on the current valve (pump feed and tank return). Any guidance would be appreciated.
Try this video I put out: th-cam.com/video/RkeNS0LWabw/w-d-xo.html That is how they are laid out on my tractor which is a MX4800. Yours are probably the same. I used the land pride third function kit, it's about $750. I'm with you it all seems really expensive.
I used teflon tape on a 3/8NPT hydraulic ram fitting ~ 3000psi, it leaked, then tried liquid PTFE thread sealer, it leaked again on first use. Third time I used 545 and let it cure for 24h and no leaks with a clean looking fitting. While tightening the fittings on the last install all i could get was 3/4 turns past finger tight as it was already very tight after 1/2 turn. Use judgment or torque as a reference since NPT fittings are not as "reusable" as other fittings and each one varies in its thread cut. Also check the material of the fittings, if its zinc plated use a wire wheel and scratch off the coating on the threads, if not use the prescribed activator since 545 works best on steel. Check the data sheet for all the information on 545, its helpful to determine the best cure time and temperature conditions to get the highest strength as it seems adding heat with a hair dryer can reduce cure time and increase strength somewhat.
This looks brutal but maybe just right. I have the problem that I have a dash6 fitting with 3/8 NPT which turns very easy into the female before it is hand tight whil another npt/barb fitting (3/8 too of course) which stops turning by hand after maybe 2 threads. How come? Npt is not like npt? By the way, very good video. And I will use loctite 577.
There is something wrong with the thread if it will only just start. Maybe a burr of it's not the correct thread. Could have been in the wrong package.
Thanks for your answer. No damage visible. I have to use the caliper. A slightly different pitch can be seen with the eye, or with the ICT billet NPT the first thread tooth is already wider while the JEGS NPT starts out narrower. The pitch will probably be the same but not the diameter.@@SoatMon
@@SoatMon very welcome. Wish i could find the video of a guy showing how crowsfoot and even extensions affect torque or not. He's got a TH-cam channel. Instructor with motorcycle institute
From everything I've read the torque values are given as a reference only, and not to be used to determine how much you tighten them. They all say to use the 'turns after finger tight', but along with that there is also a minimum/maximum of threads engaged after tightening. Fittings aren't perfect so with variations in size and finish the torque required to provide a strong mechanical joint and a leak free joint will vary. At the end of the day, as simple as pipe threads are, assembly is more art than science. An experienced pipe fitter can feel what the joint needs, and on occasion the pipe or fitting needs to be burnished, re-threaded, or discarded.
That does make sense given how variable NPT fittings are, but it is valuable to have the torque settings and demonstration here because anyone who has much experience with a torque wrench has a good sense for how much effort 40 ft-lbs is. Thus, if you are really pulling hard on the wrench to get to 2 turns, you can instantly know that it's time to stop. Thanks for the helpful video, Soat Mon.
There's a simple and commonly used way of determining the answer. Spoiler alert you're wrong. Imagine that the Crowfoot was not an inch and a half from the end of the torque wrench but very far from the end. Say as long as the length of the torque wrench. Simple mechanics tells you that the torque felt at the end of the torque wrench would be half of the torque felt at the end of the crow foot. So yes the crow foot effects the torque. Maybe at 1 and 1/2 in it doesn't affect it very much.
Where I work, we use some thread sealant on water and air lines, but never hydraulic lines. And they wonder why everything leaks... And I've been preaching about using some sort of Loctite thread sealant on JIC fittings (be it 542, 545, or 5452) but I just get blank stares. Any mechanic or machinist knows metal to metal contact is bad, and any nick on a hydraulic fitting causes a leak (let's be honest, when you get a flex hose made, are the fittings at the end ever perfect?) and with high pressure hydraulics, the hoses tend to move and work the fittings out slightly (on top of constant vibrations via the pump or the application). But yet I'm the stupid one.
turn the crows foot to the side, not directly straight... Problem solved. Besides that, the torque difference is so insignificant it doesn't even matter. I do torque tests for a living as a Special Inspector.
Love the post-nasal drip sounds. Makes it real. 🤣
Just came across your video and man, your information was SUPER helpful. The NPT guide and all the content of your video, Thank You Thank You!!
You're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to let me know it was helpful!
That video was very helpful. I didn't know about the torque specifications but will get that chart. Thank you for that. But one thing I did know is to never put the Teflon tape on over the end of the fitting. The tape can get into the system and plug up orifices and valves.Thank you for this one! Seems like I can always learn something.
Thanks Glenn! I posted this because I had trouble finding and figuring out the information so I figured someone else could also use the info.
It looks like a little over 1 1/2 turns with the torque wrench, on the first fitting. I also do not like the turn method, looked like those were to tight. What are you building?
These were the fittings for my post hole digger down pressure unit.
Ok, I have to do something for the slide on the flail mower I just bought. Thought about using the feeds for the bucket, but would like to keep the front-end loader on the tractor when doing the fields to pick up stones.
@@SoatMon Getting closer to looking at the project of adding a "third function" for the slide on the flail mower. There is a "kit" for LS tractors, but $1,000. Surly it can be done for less??? I need to understand the ports on the current valve (pump feed and tank return). Any guidance would be appreciated.
Try this video I put out: th-cam.com/video/RkeNS0LWabw/w-d-xo.html That is how they are laid out on my tractor which is a MX4800. Yours are probably the same. I used the land pride third function kit, it's about $750. I'm with you it all seems really expensive.
Thanks for sharing! Exactly what I was looking for!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for letting me know.
What is the sealant that you are using? Available on Amazon?
Loctite 545. There's a link in the description.
I used teflon tape on a 3/8NPT hydraulic ram fitting ~ 3000psi, it leaked, then tried liquid PTFE thread sealer, it leaked again on first use. Third time I used 545 and let it cure for 24h and no leaks with a clean looking fitting. While tightening the fittings on the last install all i could get was 3/4 turns past finger tight as it was already very tight after 1/2 turn. Use judgment or torque as a reference since NPT fittings are not as "reusable" as other fittings and each one varies in its thread cut. Also check the material of the fittings, if its zinc plated use a wire wheel and scratch off the coating on the threads, if not use the prescribed activator since 545 works best on steel. Check the data sheet for all the information on 545, its helpful to determine the best cure time and temperature conditions to get the highest strength as it seems adding heat with a hair dryer can reduce cure time and increase strength somewhat.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Damn there's everything on TH-cam! I don't have to ever read again!!!
This looks brutal but maybe just right. I have the problem that I have a dash6 fitting with 3/8 NPT which turns very easy into the female before it is hand tight whil another npt/barb fitting (3/8 too of course) which stops turning by hand after maybe 2 threads. How come? Npt is not like npt? By the way, very good video. And I will use loctite 577.
There is something wrong with the thread if it will only just start. Maybe a burr of it's not the correct thread. Could have been in the wrong package.
Thanks for your answer. No damage visible. I have to use the caliper. A slightly different pitch can be seen with the eye, or with the ICT billet NPT the first thread tooth is already wider while the JEGS NPT starts out narrower. The pitch will probably be the same but not the diameter.@@SoatMon
@5:30 When using a crowsfoot set it 90 degrees to the torque wrench. This will not change the torque
Since it's not making the wrench longer that would make sense. Thanks for the comment!
@@SoatMon very welcome. Wish i could find the video of a guy showing how crowsfoot and even extensions affect torque or not.
He's got a TH-cam channel. Instructor with motorcycle institute
@@SoatMon found it!
th-cam.com/video/4dsAvFNVGRE/w-d-xo.html
Just what I needed to know thanks
You're welcome. Thanks for letting me know it was helpful.
Great video.
Thanks!
From everything I've read the torque values are given as a reference only, and not to be used to determine how much you tighten them. They all say to use the 'turns after finger tight', but along with that there is also a minimum/maximum of threads engaged after tightening. Fittings aren't perfect so with variations in size and finish the torque required to provide a strong mechanical joint and a leak free joint will vary.
At the end of the day, as simple as pipe threads are, assembly is more art than science. An experienced pipe fitter can feel what the joint needs, and on occasion the pipe or fitting needs to be burnished, re-threaded, or discarded.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
That does make sense given how variable NPT fittings are, but it is valuable to have the torque settings and demonstration here because anyone who has much experience with a torque wrench has a good sense for how much effort 40 ft-lbs is. Thus, if you are really pulling hard on the wrench to get to 2 turns, you can instantly know that it's time to stop. Thanks for the helpful video, Soat Mon.
I could be wrong but don't think using a crow's foot effects the readings on the torque wrench
There's a simple and commonly used way of determining the answer. Spoiler alert you're wrong. Imagine that the Crowfoot was not an inch and a half from the end of the torque wrench but very far from the end. Say as long as the length of the torque wrench. Simple mechanics tells you that the torque felt at the end of the torque wrench would be half of the torque felt at the end of the crow foot. So yes the crow foot effects the torque. Maybe at 1 and 1/2 in it doesn't affect it very much.
Where I work, we use some thread sealant on water and air lines, but never hydraulic lines. And they wonder why everything leaks... And I've been preaching about using some sort of Loctite thread sealant on JIC fittings (be it 542, 545, or 5452) but I just get blank stares. Any mechanic or machinist knows metal to metal contact is bad, and any nick on a hydraulic fitting causes a leak (let's be honest, when you get a flex hose made, are the fittings at the end ever perfect?) and with high pressure hydraulics, the hoses tend to move and work the fittings out slightly (on top of constant vibrations via the pump or the application). But yet I'm the stupid one.
Thanks for sharing your experience Joe. It's amazing how some employers don't use the experience of their employees to make things better.
Dude you need a tissue?
Sorry, bit of a cold.
turn the crows foot to the side, not directly straight... Problem solved. Besides that, the torque difference is so insignificant it doesn't even matter. I do torque tests for a living as a Special Inspector.
Thank you for sharing your experience! Hadn't thought of it but of course you could turn it to the side.
Teflon is not for hyd fittings
He might have corona virus
2:53 your wrench is being used incorrectly, pull instead of push. Your sniffles make me not finish watching your video.
Fuck I forgot the Teflon tappppeeee I’m leaking oil
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