I felt weird not knowing what locktite to use and where. Now all my questions and the questions I didn't know I had are answered. Thanks for an awesome explanation!
"Hi! Im some rando internet dude in a garage ... so lets talk about history, science and anaerobic thread locking sealants". Im sold Honestly clicked on this video expecting some dude to say "use the blue one, it tastes nice". Never expected a master class in science history. Colour me impressed.
@@PetesGarage You are very welcome. Its brilliant that you give people the information that they need, and throw in some entertaining background education too.
Great info. I just put a water pump in a Grand Prix 3.8l engine, went to buy thread sealant for the water pump bolt threads but all they had at the auto parts store was thread locker/sealant. The thread locker was blue so I used it, but all I really wanted was the sealant. Thanks Pete for another great video.
WOW that was a brilliant explanation of the differences in loctite and their applications, so thank you very much Pete 👍🏼 especially the wicking top tip 😊
Great video! One thing you didn't mention is that loctite can help keep a nut from rusting onto a bolt as bad. I've used it for that on a lot of farm equipment parts that I don't want to use anti seize on
You are right about tourk being the primary fastener but the best reason is if a bolt or nut does come loose it will keep it from coming completely off and getting into moving parts and causing complete destruction of whatever it happens to be in. The best tip i heard from this is using the alcohol to make it draw down into the threads. Great video thanks.
Pete you are a walking book of knowledge. Been using lock title for years ( red or blue ) in the aircraft industry but never knew the particulars about it. Great idea to change it to wicking. How many times do we put a fastener together and say damn forgot the locktite. Thanks buddy for sharing your knowledge Artie 😊
Good informative vid Pete. One important tip that you may not have mentioned is to shake your loctite tube before applying. I come from the Harley world and have been using Permatex Blue threadlocker, which can be used in all applications calling for a Blue. This way i don't have to get separate Blues from Loctite (242/243.) Bummer that all this stuff expires after a year. When Red is called for, we use the 262 because our bolts are under 3/4", and the H-D service manual specifically calls for 262.
Awesome Pete! Thanks! Glad you gave a little mention to the thread sealer too. I'm in the camp of using thread sealer when putting anything threaded into a passage that has oil or coolant on the other side, rather than a thread locker. Like the just replaced oil sending unit on my 1996 Jeep. The new one came with some red stuff on the threads, no idea if that was a sealer or a locker. I used Permatex white thread sealer. BTW, the failed one that came out (aftermarket part installed about 16 years ago) had no signs of any sealer or locker visible, and no sign of oil leaking past threads either.
The thread sealer works great! More and more OEM's are providing fasteners with some kinds of sealer or locking patch on the threads. It's probably not a good idea to put anything on top of the factory applied stuff. I can't imagine any manufacturer using thread sealers in 1996.
@@PetesGarage Add no more? Oops, maybe next time :) The failed sending unit was installed around 2002/2004 ish Walmart broke off the factory original while changing my oil, cost them about $145 to replace it. I used the white Permatex that doesn't harden. BTW, I would not use the home plumbing thread sealer on an engine. Maybe superstition on my part, but I am sticking with it.
I’ll mostly agree with your statement about not needing Loctite when working on a car. The engineer generally determines a torque spec to provide a particular amount of tension which also causes high friction between the threads and thus locks the bolt in tight. However, I have found that adding it to any pass through bolts on the exterior may significantly improve serviceability (think exhaust studs and bolts).
Thanks for this video Pete... I had no idea it had a shelf life of 1 year! There goes a one time used application of Blue gel locktite from my tool chest!
You can extend the life considerably by putting it in the freezer...due to low humidity. For safety related hardware I always make sure I use stuff that's not expired.
Thanks for sharing the history as well. Had no clue locktite and superglue were older than me. Great info. A video explaining how engineers on an engine determine the torque requirements is something I've always wondered about.
It's older than me too.....lol. Determining torque is not that difficult. There are standard charts and tables for almost every fastener and material. Do a web search for Recommended Torque Charts and you'll see tons on them. It's all based on the material, thread engagement area, and desired clamp load.
I use Loctite to prevent loosening from vibration but also to prevent rust locked bolts. It prevent rust on the thread... trust me, It saved me tons of time while reparing my suspension and brakes
Thanks Pete. Very informative. Just one thing I don't agree with. Just last summer I was putting things together on my old Fargo and I used red loctite that was over 15 years old. That was all I had.. A couple of months later I had to remove the bolts and they were very hard to loosen. So even old loctite works. Now if I was using it on my engine, I would use new stuff. But I won't be throwing any of my old loctite our any time soon. Still all your videos are great. I watch them all. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Andy, I have bottles that are a couple year old. It's not that they won't work anymore, the grip strength does decrease over time. As moisture gets in the ability to cure changes. On safety related fasteners I will use new stuff, but keep older stuff around for minor fixes. I asked the chemist right at the factory, unless he's also the salesman!....lol
3:03 I have occasionally had suspension parts come back out, despite proper torque. This is why I loctite suspension parts before I torque them to final specifications. I have seen OEM shock bolts with blue stuff on a few threads, so I suspect that some suspension components were treated with Loctite at the factory. 4:25 I prefer the Loctite tape so much, I don't even buy liquid Loctite if I can avoid it. I did not know that Permatex threadlocker used the same color codes as Loctite. That is a good thing to know, since I often have to go where there is Permatex brand goods, but no Loctite/Henkel brand goods.
Suspension parts are good spots for Loctite. You will get some OEM bolts with Loctite patches on them. Permatex kinda jumped on the Loctite bandwagon. No need to confuse everyone with different colors.
Ive used the green loctite retaining compound as well... i think it was 680... used it on a spun pinion bearing and it worked. Not a super legit thing to do but sometimes thats how it goes. Good tip on the wicking loctite.
Solid info as always. I didn't know about the expiration date or wicking Loctite. On the topic of Loctite, if you are working on a Harley especially an older single cam Harley almost every bolt should get at least Blue Loctite and driveline stuff Red. I recently bought a 98 Road King with a 113 Evo and the previous owner/ builder did not use any that I can see and the bike is literally falling apart as it goes down the street.
I get many questions about Loctite so I thought I'd share with everyone. Yeah, that Harley problem is just bad engineering. Imagine owning a Harley before Loctite was available.
Thank you Pete, i had an issue that i didn't know about... I never knew some people used locktite for manual transmission and some other parts. If you also find time, can you update your description as to where you found some of this information?
Really useful info, and loved the tip on making your own wicking loctite. Any advice on how to (or whether it’s advisable to) clean dirty threads prior to applying loctite?
Recently replaced Cummins ISX-15 camshaft which does not use a key . It has a tapered shaft which has a final torque of 109 ft. lbs . Used Loctite 609 (green )after cleaning oil residue from camshaft and gear . Use ether or Brake Klean to remove oil residue before assembly . Great Information ! 7/2022
Pete, as always, great video. Like the tip with the alcohol. In aerospace, they use bolts/nuts with holes and tie them with wire for the secondary fastening. Pricey, but cheaper than a plane falling out of the sky...lol. I actually have a David Brown tractor that uses wire on the bolts for the timing gears. Are certain penetrating oils better at breaking Loctite than others or is heat your only option?
Thanks Troy, there are quite a few secondary retention methods, maybe I'll do a video on them. I use PB Blaster, works pretty well. Acetone can dissolve Loctite.
Good info Pete, love your channel. Never heard about mixing 242 with Isopropyl before... One thing you never touched on, that I have always been curious about. If using loctite, does it change the value of your primary retention [torque]? As it is viscous, you would think that the torque values should be lower. Thoughts?
Thanks Dan, it's not the viscosity that changes the torque, it's the lubricity. The answer is YES, Loctite will act as a lubricant so adjust accordingly
@@PetesGarage Is there a general rule of thumb? What I've been doing is that if a torque range is specified, I will use the lower spec. I agree with what you are saying about the secondary fastener retention, but working in aircraft maintenance where there is usually always a secondary retention requirement, I use it quite a bit more than when you say it should be used [high vibration].
Very informative. Just a question. Im using a 8.8 grade bolt and nut to my motorcycles exaust pipe, which will be the best to use for the nut not to loosen?
Nice video, I have been using 3M TL71, which I guess is the same application of Loctite 271. I always think, better safe than sorry with thread lockers
When it comes to Loctite products, you should always look up exactly AND i mean EXACTLY what product you going to use. There are sooooo many! Same product different name between origins and countries. I have an green loctite product with red bottle, with blue label (can't rememberer the name) but it's NOT wicking loctite like you mention (i know what kind of locitet you mean). Some green loctite are more like rubber and used both for plummeting product to see if they are open and to not get loose. The green loctite i bought was design for high heat and thread "fill".
Yes, definitely know the number and what it's used for. There is blue 241, 242, 243. Just check the front of the bottle, There are many, many different numbers for each color.
Looking for advice for which threadlocker to use on the top of a propane patio heater. The wind vibrates the 3-piece heat shield at the top of the heater and causes the bolts to back out and eventually fall apart. It gets really hot - and advice? Thanks in advance - enjoyed the video.
Unfortunately Loctite does not doe well in hot applications. You could try this www.vibra-tite.com/threadlockers/medium-strength-removable/hot-lock-extreme-high-temperature-threadlocker/
Awesome video. Straight to the point with lots of information. I have loose screws that hold the crank of a sill of casement windows. The screws can be tightened (but I'm worried about stripping the threads). Should I use red or blue (does removal matter-is ue less strong than red)? Or a different material, like epoxy? What if the screw can turn and not tighten down? Epoxy? Thanks.
"Superglues" (cyanoacrylate adhesives) are not cured by the anaerobic process, and therefore not affected by the absence of air (or more accurately, oxygen).
yeah the fact that they cure in an "anaerobic environment" just means they dont need oxygen to cure, like polyurethane/window weld. they rely on the catalytic surface effect of metals, just like how a catalytic converter works in a car to clean nox/sox. because aluminum is so much more reactive than most other metals, it near instantly forms a nonconducting oxide surface on top which makes cure times significantly longer for fasteners that are going into aluminum. lock tight might never set up if you used an aluminum fastener in an aluminum thread. for the people wondering how you clean a bolt off so you can reapply locktite, thats a mute point. oils are bad and should be cleaned coz they can prevent the metal surface reaction, but old locktite is itself catalytically active so as long as its not covered in oil, it will continue to polyimerize the epoxy. think of the surface as the activating agent for a 1 part epoxy which is basically what locktite is
Great explanation, the clarification of anaerobic is spot on. The way to think of it is that traditional adhesives uses oxygen to create the chemical reaction to harden, loctite can harden without oxygen.
Im making a parcel reacher. (To reach packages in the back of mail truck) L bracket on a dollar store broom stick. Currently using 2 hose clamps but want a cleaner look, besides the sharp edges on a hose clamp. Looking to use a bolt and nut. Which loctite should I use, if any? Thanks for this vid!
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge ! I would like to know if ethanol would do the trick to make a wicking threadlocker or if i absolutely need IPA?
I have a 70 HP Tractor that has side frames bolted to each side of the engine. Front end loaders are bolted to the side frame. The vibration of the loader caused the fasteners (5/8" bolts) attaching the side frames to the engine to loosen. To prevent this Red Loctite 271 was applied to the 5/8" bolts screwed into the engine block. A necessary service at this point requires the side frames to be removed from the engine. Needless to say it will be difficult if not impossible to heat the engine block to 500 deg. F to loosen the Loctite. If the bolt is heated enough for the Loctite to release will it reseal itself after the bolt cools down. Concerned that if trying to remove the bolt while still heated to 500 deg. it will be more prone twisting and failing before removal.
Working on a compressor and some of the fittings seem to be fastened with a thread lock adhesive. Damn near impossible to remove with hand tools only. Do thread lock compounds also provide a seal as well as prevent easy removal?
Is is possible to remove LOCTITE 243 residue from painted surface? I used Loctite 243 for the screws to attach black painted bar ends weights to the handlebars of my motorcycle. Unfortunately, I had some Loctite residue on my hands during assembly, which left some ugly fingerprints on the shiny black paint of the new bar end weights. Is it possible to remove the loctite residue from the bar end weights somehow without damaging the paint? Maybe with chemicals, heat or buffing?
Can I use this on wall mounted bath taps. Compression has failed with ptfe, so I have too smash up a tile get to the back will this do the job looking for recommendation on which one I should go for.
Informative video, actually! I've just been trying to discover how different gel Loctite (or Permatex) is from its liquid counterparts. Usually, in regards to curing time.
I've moved away from using red Loctite whatsoever. I use blue only on clutches. Even then, it's a maintenance hassle. The way I look at it, the joints should always be a good solid slip-critical fit. In fact, next time I do my clutch, I'm going to switch to a more open bellhousing.
I have a handgun with an front sight that's off center with green locktight. I understand heat will melt ot but this particular sight has a polymer bead and I'm afraid to melt it. Is there anything that will soften it without melting the rest of the sight?
Hi, can Loctite 510 be used to mate motorcycle crankcase halves made of aluminium alloy, without a primer activator? I bought 510 since 518 was not available. Thank you.
I used Loctite 262 on some screws that hold my primary gear to my clutch basket on my dirt bike. Let it set for about an hour and a half. Then put oil in the bike and did a test run. Will oil dissolve the loctite, or should it be good to go? Thanks!!
I have a pair of reluctor rings that are slightly larger than the driveshaft I'm attempting to attach them to. Can red loctite successfully hold them in place or is this more of a 2-part epoxy type job?
Hey Pete. Thanks for the information. I guess all my Loctite is garbage. It is about 4 years old. Does old Loctite stay moist? Or what happens to it. I think most viewers would lite to know what would happen if old Loctite is used. Thanks for sharing Pete.👍👍
They should make a faster removal spray that works against rust since they are so good at securing fasteners. Something that dissolves loctite and rust and penetrates threw
I use 290 for a different purpose, to prevent erosion of the parent metal around the valve seats on Myers’s high pressure water pumps. Anywhere where the 290 wick onto doesn’t get eroded by the high volume or pressure of the water, yet the non coated 290 parent metal will erode. Something so simple saves these pumps from being thrown aways.
I have a power steering pump long bolt. The female has part of the inside stripped, just slighty, but enough for it not to lock it. I know they have a thread repair kit, but would any of these work instead?
hey, great video, i need the strongest loctite, would the epoxy be the strongest? im trying to permanently stick a nut onto a stuck stud. since i do not kno how to weld and weld them together, i need something close to it. ive heard about loctite 660, loctite epoxy, and j-b weld, which do u think would be the best/strongest?
@@PetesGarage well I guess I've got my mistake. I guess the most important thing is to put enough material on it. So all the threads that needs to be glued must be with filled up with glue. So don't try to put just some drops on it. If you take of the nut or bolt all threats needs to be filled up. So aluminum and stainless steel connection works if done as I said. Before I just made 2 thin lines on the thread which didn't cover it. Now I put on one layer all around the first edge, pretty juicy. After bolt is mounted still there is some left overs that I cleaned of.
Loctite is anerobic. That means it cures in the absence of air. You shouldn't need to put that much on there, but the hole and bolt have to be very clean, no oil or grease.
@@PetesGarage well before I didn't put enough on it and that's been the issue I've had. Sure it doesn't need to swim but all the space between the thread needs to be filled up with that juice.
Why do most of the 2oz bottles only have .34 FL Oz in them. I’ve had people tell me that if they fill the bottle up, it will remove the air from the bottle and the thread locker will harden in the bottle. But then I’ve also read that there has to be active metal with the absence of air for it to harden, in which case it wouldn’t harden in the bottle even if it was full. I’m just trying to figure out why my bottles are only 1/4 to 1/3 full when I buy them. It seems a little misleading.
I think both things are true. It will harden or "set" in the absence of air (oxygen) but the metal acts as a catalyst (speeding up the reaction), without changing the reaction. That's why different metals have different cure times.
I didn't use Loctite on the bolts of automatic converter got loose and it struck the startmotor had to replace it.Cracked the Housing Expensive Mistake!
I felt weird not knowing what locktite to use and where. Now all my questions and the questions I didn't know I had are answered. Thanks for an awesome explanation!
Glad I could help!
One GREATEST clearest and fastest tutorial ever on Loctite Threadlocker products !
Thanks Pete !
Thank you Philippe
"Hi! Im some rando internet dude in a garage ... so lets talk about history, science and anaerobic thread locking sealants". Im sold
Honestly clicked on this video expecting some dude to say "use the blue one, it tastes nice". Never expected a master class in science history. Colour me impressed.
Thank you my friend
@@PetesGarage You are very welcome. Its brilliant that you give people the information that they need, and throw in some entertaining background education too.
You just helped me answer why my 4 year old loctite wasn't working as it used to, very useful and informational video
Glad it helped
Great video!
People like you justify the creation of the Internet and everything that goes with it
That last tip was a cherry on top!
Thank you my friend
Great info. I just put a water pump in a Grand Prix 3.8l engine, went to buy thread sealant for the water pump bolt threads but all they had at the auto parts store was thread locker/sealant. The thread locker was blue so I used it, but all I really wanted was the sealant. Thanks Pete for another great video.
Thanks J, that water pump is on there for sure. I'm surprised the blue sealed the threads.
Good show Pete! That tightens up my understanding of all the various colors of thread locker, especially the wicking kind. Thanks!
Thanks James, it a simple product most people misunderstand.
WOW that was a brilliant explanation of the differences in loctite and their applications, so thank you very much Pete 👍🏼 especially the wicking top tip 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! One thing you didn't mention is that loctite can help keep a nut from rusting onto a bolt as bad. I've used it for that on a lot of farm equipment parts that I don't want to use anti seize on
Great tip!
You are right about tourk being the primary fastener but the best reason is if a bolt or nut does come loose it will keep it from coming completely off and getting into moving parts and causing complete destruction of whatever it happens to be in. The best tip i heard from this is using the alcohol to make it draw down into the threads. Great video thanks.
Thanks my friend
Pete you are a walking book of knowledge. Been using lock title for years ( red or blue ) in the aircraft industry but never knew the particulars about it. Great idea to change it to wicking. How many times do we put a fastener together and say damn forgot the locktite. Thanks buddy for sharing your knowledge Artie 😊
Thanks Artie!
Good informative vid Pete. One important tip that you may not have mentioned is to shake your loctite tube before applying. I come from the Harley world and have been using Permatex Blue threadlocker, which can be used in all applications calling for a Blue. This way i don't have to get separate Blues from Loctite (242/243.) Bummer that all this stuff expires after a year. When Red is called for, we use the 262 because our bolts are under 3/4", and the H-D service manual specifically calls for 262.
That's an excellent comment, thanks my friend
Awesome Pete! Thanks!
Glad you gave a little mention to the thread sealer too. I'm in the camp of using thread sealer when putting anything threaded into a passage that has oil or coolant on the other side, rather than a thread locker. Like the just replaced oil sending unit on my 1996 Jeep. The new one came with some red stuff on the threads, no idea if that was a sealer or a locker. I used Permatex white thread sealer. BTW, the failed one that came out (aftermarket part installed about 16 years ago) had no signs of any sealer or locker visible, and no sign of oil leaking past threads either.
The thread sealer works great! More and more OEM's are providing fasteners with some kinds of sealer or locking patch on the threads. It's probably not a good idea to put anything on top of the factory applied stuff. I can't imagine any manufacturer using thread sealers in 1996.
@@PetesGarage Add no more? Oops, maybe next time :) The failed sending unit was installed around 2002/2004 ish Walmart broke off the factory original while changing my oil, cost them about $145 to replace it. I used the white Permatex that doesn't harden. BTW, I would not use the home plumbing thread sealer on an engine. Maybe superstition on my part, but I am sticking with it.
You are a great speaker, just the right amount of energy.
Thank you my friend
I am NOT a gear head, but I needed info for a project I don’t want to mess up and this video was understandable and very helpful. Thanks so much.
Thanks David
Hey Pete thanks for the videos this is great info for a future diesel mechanic like myself, you deff have a subscriber for life..
Thanks and good luck
Awesome, I'll probably comeback here again when I actually use locktite but for now it's good to get a general idea, great vid :)
Thanks
I’ll mostly agree with your statement about not needing Loctite when working on a car. The engineer generally determines a torque spec to provide a particular amount of tension which also causes high friction between the threads and thus locks the bolt in tight. However, I have found that adding it to any pass through bolts on the exterior may significantly improve serviceability (think exhaust studs and bolts).
That's no problem
Thanks for this video Pete... I had no idea it had a shelf life of 1 year! There goes a one time used application of Blue gel locktite from my tool chest!
You can extend the life considerably by putting it in the freezer...due to low humidity. For safety related hardware I always make sure I use stuff that's not expired.
@@PetesGarage can you put regular blue loctite 242/243 in the freezer as well?
Thanks for sharing the history as well. Had no clue locktite and superglue were older than me. Great info. A video explaining how engineers on an engine determine the torque requirements is something I've always wondered about.
It's older than me too.....lol. Determining torque is not that difficult. There are standard charts and tables for almost every fastener and material. Do a web search for Recommended Torque Charts and you'll see tons on them. It's all based on the material, thread engagement area, and desired clamp load.
Hi Pete's Garage! Thx for the great informative video. I was just hired by Henkel and I think this is helping me to understanding threadlockers
That's awesome!
I've got Loctite that is 30 years old and it still works!
Sure it will work, but does it have the full holding strength
Very informative. thanks👍👍
My pleasure
I use Loctite to prevent loosening from vibration but also to prevent rust locked bolts. It prevent rust on the thread... trust me, It saved me tons of time while reparing my suspension and brakes
Interesting, thank you
That's a very informative video. Thanks, Pete.
Thanks Steve
Thanks Pete. Very informative. Just one thing I don't agree with. Just last summer I was putting things together on my old Fargo and I used red loctite that was over 15 years old. That was all I had.. A couple of months later I had to remove the bolts and they were very hard to loosen. So even old loctite works. Now if I was using it on my engine, I would use new stuff. But I won't be throwing any of my old loctite our any time soon. Still all your videos are great. I watch them all. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Andy, I have bottles that are a couple year old. It's not that they won't work anymore, the grip strength does decrease over time. As moisture gets in the ability to cure changes. On safety related fasteners I will use new stuff, but keep older stuff around for minor fixes. I asked the chemist right at the factory, unless he's also the salesman!....lol
@@PetesGarage Thanks Pete. Keep all the good info coming.
3:03 I have occasionally had suspension parts come back out, despite proper torque. This is why I loctite suspension parts before I torque them to final specifications. I have seen OEM shock bolts with blue stuff on a few threads, so I suspect that some suspension components were treated with Loctite at the factory.
4:25 I prefer the Loctite tape so much, I don't even buy liquid Loctite if I can avoid it.
I did not know that Permatex threadlocker used the same color codes as Loctite. That is a good thing to know, since I often have to go where there is Permatex brand goods, but no Loctite/Henkel brand goods.
Suspension parts are good spots for Loctite. You will get some OEM bolts with Loctite patches on them. Permatex kinda jumped on the Loctite bandwagon. No need to confuse everyone with different colors.
Great video Pete I’m now a new subscriber this has taken the confusion out of loctites numbers thanks again
Thanks for the sub! Glad it helped
Very useful that video, but I remove a bolt with blue loctite, how can I clean the thread to assemble and put it new blue fixer?? Thanks
Clean the threads with a bottoming tap
Ive used the green loctite retaining compound as well... i think it was 680... used it on a spun pinion bearing and it worked. Not a super legit thing to do but sometimes thats how it goes. Good tip on the wicking loctite.
There are many uses, it can be used to hold fitted machined parts.
I found this very interesting, answered every question and more thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
great video+presentation+explanation mate! well done! NEW SUB 🙏🏻
Awesome, thank you!
Solid info as always. I didn't know about the expiration date or wicking Loctite.
On the topic of Loctite, if you are working on a Harley especially an older single cam Harley almost every bolt should get at least Blue Loctite and driveline stuff Red. I recently bought a 98 Road King with a 113 Evo and the previous owner/ builder did not use any that I can see and the bike is literally falling apart as it goes down the street.
I get many questions about Loctite so I thought I'd share with everyone. Yeah, that Harley problem is just bad engineering. Imagine owning a Harley before Loctite was available.
Excellent video really liked the tip to make wicking loctite. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Pete, i had an issue that i didn't know about... I never knew some people used locktite for manual transmission and some other parts.
If you also find time, can you update your description as to where you found some of this information?
Thanks my friend. You can go right to the Henkel website and find the information I shared and more.
@@PetesGarage thank you.
Really useful info, and loved the tip on making your own wicking loctite. Any advice on how to (or whether it’s advisable to) clean dirty threads prior to applying loctite?
Dirty threads can just be either sprayed with degreaser and/or brushed with a wire brush.
@@PetesGarage what can you use to remove old loctite from a screw or something you need to reapply loctite to and use again?
Thanks Pete! I learned a lot from this video and I appreciate you for making it.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Recently replaced Cummins ISX-15 camshaft which does not use a key . It has a tapered shaft which has a final torque of 109 ft. lbs . Used Loctite 609 (green )after cleaning oil residue from camshaft and gear . Use ether or Brake Klean to remove oil residue before assembly . Great Information ! 7/2022
Thanks Vic
Awesome bro I always wanted to know what the differences were and now I know. Thanks
There are so many different types, but only a couple available locally, unless you know the specific number you're looking for and order it online.
Thanks Pete, I had no clue about the expiration date
It's just a general rule
Mark Belden I never knew that either, great information
Hi from Russia! Thanks a lot, excellent info!
Hello my friend
Pete, as always, great video. Like the tip with the alcohol. In aerospace, they use bolts/nuts with holes and tie them with wire for the secondary fastening. Pricey, but cheaper than a plane falling out of the sky...lol. I actually have a David Brown tractor that uses wire on the bolts for the timing gears. Are certain penetrating oils better at breaking Loctite than others or is heat your only option?
Thanks Troy, there are quite a few secondary retention methods, maybe I'll do a video on them. I use PB Blaster, works pretty well. Acetone can dissolve Loctite.
Good info Pete, love your channel. Never heard about mixing 242 with Isopropyl before...
One thing you never touched on, that I have always been curious about. If using loctite, does it change the value of your primary retention [torque]? As it is viscous, you would think that the torque values should be lower. Thoughts?
Thanks Dan, it's not the viscosity that changes the torque, it's the lubricity. The answer is YES, Loctite will act as a lubricant so adjust accordingly
@@PetesGarage Is there a general rule of thumb? What I've been doing is that if a torque range is specified, I will use the lower spec. I agree with what you are saying about the secondary fastener retention, but working in aircraft maintenance where there is usually always a secondary retention requirement, I use it quite a bit more than when you say it should be used [high vibration].
There is no rule of thumb per se, but there are specs for fasteners by size with and without different kinds of lube.
Why does it not harden in the bottle when the lid is put on it, if the lack of air causes it to set up? Wouldn't the lid make the bottle air tight?
Because there is still air in the bottle.
Facepalm
Very informative. Just a question. Im using a 8.8 grade bolt and nut to my motorcycles exaust pipe, which will be the best to use for the nut not to loosen?
Blue or red, blue if you want to be able to take it apart
Very informative. Thanks for sharing this information. It is greatly appreciated!
Thanks for watching Steve
Never saw a better A to Z.
I'll bet ChrisFix gave this a thumbs up.. ;-) 🇬🇧
Nice video, I have been using 3M TL71, which I guess is the same application of Loctite 271. I always think, better safe than sorry with thread lockers
Safe is a good way to go
When it comes to Loctite products, you should always look up exactly AND i mean EXACTLY what product you going to use. There are sooooo many! Same product different name between origins and countries. I have an green loctite product with red bottle, with blue label (can't rememberer the name) but it's NOT wicking loctite like you mention (i know what kind of locitet you mean).
Some green loctite are more like rubber and used both for plummeting product to see if they are open and to not get loose.
The green loctite i bought was design for high heat and thread "fill".
Here in workshop speech blue is 243 for thread locking and green is 638 for securing shafts
Yes, definitely know the number and what it's used for. There is blue 241, 242, 243. Just check the front of the bottle, There are many, many different numbers for each color.
Hello Mr.Pete.
Valuable information hat's off to u Boss..
Thank you so much 🙂
Well done, you covered a lot of information concise & to the point, Good Video.
Thanks my friend
Looking for advice for which threadlocker to use on the top of a propane patio heater. The wind vibrates the 3-piece heat shield at the top of the heater and causes the bolts to back out and eventually fall apart. It gets really hot - and advice? Thanks in advance - enjoyed the video.
Unfortunately Loctite does not doe well in hot applications. You could try this www.vibra-tite.com/threadlockers/medium-strength-removable/hot-lock-extreme-high-temperature-threadlocker/
Awesome video. Straight to the point with lots of information.
I have loose screws that hold the crank of a sill of casement windows. The screws can be tightened (but I'm worried about stripping the threads). Should I use red or blue (does removal matter-is ue less strong than red)? Or a different material, like epoxy?
What if the screw can turn and not tighten down? Epoxy?
Thanks.
I would use blue
purple for small diameter bolts.
Good tip with iso alcohol, did not know that. Handy bit of info right there
It really helps out when something is already together. Thanks Richard.
Great tip on how to make your own wicking loctite with IPA. A very handy tip that I'm certain to use. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the great video!
Can brake cleaner really help dissolve the Permatex brand ( blue loctite) I have on my pipe?
You can try, heat works best
Real good information, Pete, thanks.
Thanks my friend
"Superglues" (cyanoacrylate adhesives) are not cured by the anaerobic process, and therefore not affected by the absence of air (or more accurately, oxygen).
Interesting
yeah the fact that they cure in an "anaerobic environment" just means they dont need oxygen to cure, like polyurethane/window weld. they rely on the catalytic surface effect of metals, just like how a catalytic converter works in a car to clean nox/sox. because aluminum is so much more reactive than most other metals, it near instantly forms a nonconducting oxide surface on top which makes cure times significantly longer for fasteners that are going into aluminum. lock tight might never set up if you used an aluminum fastener in an aluminum thread. for the people wondering how you clean a bolt off so you can reapply locktite, thats a mute point. oils are bad and should be cleaned coz they can prevent the metal surface reaction, but old locktite is itself catalytically active so as long as its not covered in oil, it will continue to polyimerize the epoxy. think of the surface as the activating agent for a 1 part epoxy which is basically what locktite is
Great explanation, the clarification of anaerobic is spot on. The way to think of it is that traditional adhesives uses oxygen to create the chemical reaction to harden, loctite can harden without oxygen.
Im making a parcel reacher. (To reach packages in the back of mail truck) L bracket on a dollar store broom stick. Currently using 2 hose clamps but want a cleaner look, besides the sharp edges on a hose clamp. Looking to use a bolt and nut. Which loctite should I use, if any? Thanks for this vid!
The blue is probably best because it's removable
You're a great communicator. Thanks!
Thank you Meg
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge !
I would like to know if ethanol would do the trick to make a wicking threadlocker or if i absolutely need IPA?
I suppose any alcohol would work
@@PetesGarage thanks again
Making your own wicking -Loctite- threadlocker is the BEST tip, even if I can't think of my own personal use case for it ATM.
Thanks my friend
Really handy video. Cheers mate 👍😃
Thanks Tim
I have a 70 HP Tractor that has side frames bolted to each side of the engine. Front end loaders are bolted to the side frame. The vibration of the loader caused the fasteners (5/8" bolts) attaching the side frames to the engine to loosen. To prevent this Red Loctite 271 was applied to the 5/8" bolts screwed into the engine block. A necessary service at this point requires the side frames to be removed from the engine. Needless to say it will be difficult if not impossible to heat the engine block to 500 deg. F to loosen the Loctite. If the bolt is heated enough for the Loctite to release will it reseal itself after the bolt cools down. Concerned that if trying to remove the bolt while still heated to 500 deg. it will be more prone twisting and failing before removal.
That is the risk in using the red. When the bolt is loose you can spray some acetone in there to help keep it loose.
Love the Isopropanol alcohol trick. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Denny
Working on a compressor and some of the fittings seem to be fastened with a thread lock adhesive. Damn near impossible to remove with hand tools only. Do thread lock compounds also provide a seal as well as prevent easy removal?
He mentioned in the video that one of the red compounds is offered that doubles as thread sealant for pipe threads.
@@ItalianStallion1415 Thanks. Now I know why I've been having so much trouble removing those fittings!
A little heat will melt it enough to remove
@@PetesGarage Thanks for the reply. Just went and gave the valve in question a warning of what's to come!
If you have any other questions about loctite, ask a Harley Davidson Owner.
Good point, those things would destroy themselves if you didn't glue them together Poor engineering.
Thanks Pete, great and helpful information.
Glad you enjoyed it Tom
Is is possible to remove LOCTITE 243 residue from painted surface?
I used Loctite 243 for the screws to attach black painted bar ends weights to the handlebars of my motorcycle. Unfortunately, I had some Loctite residue on my hands during assembly, which left some ugly fingerprints on the shiny black paint of the new bar end weights.
Is it possible to remove the loctite residue from the bar end weights somehow without damaging the paint? Maybe with chemicals, heat or buffing?
You could heat it with a hair dryer to soften it. You may end up having to sand with 2000 grit and buff
@@PetesGarage Thanks. I'll give that a try
Can I use this on wall mounted bath taps. Compression has failed with ptfe, so I have too smash up a tile get to the back will this do the job looking for recommendation on which one I should go for.
If compression with PTFE fails on water, I think you have mismatched threads
good tip on the wicking trick with the alchol
Works every time
i`m looking for a thread glue that will hold my e bike battery in place because it keeps coming loose .I don`t need too much info
Red Loctite
Hi Pete
Another very nice video
Thanks my friend
Informative video, actually! I've just been trying to discover how different gel Loctite (or Permatex) is from its liquid counterparts. Usually, in regards to curing time.
Thanks Philip
So I have 3 type of LocTite 222MS, 242, and 271 how do I know which one to use?
Thanks for the Video.
22MS for threads under 1/4", 242 general purpose removable on larger than 1/4", 271 red for permanent locking
@@PetesGarage what loctite is suitable on underwater for lock on boat propeller.? thanks in advance
I've moved away from using red Loctite whatsoever. I use blue only on clutches. Even then, it's a maintenance hassle.
The way I look at it, the joints should always be a good solid slip-critical fit. In fact, next time I do my clutch, I'm going to switch to a more open bellhousing.
Blue is good for clutches, but it is a hassle. I personally don't use any on a clutch.
My Harley Davison cannot live without locktite. Thanks for the additional info.
I believe it
Thanks for the tip on making the wicking loctite
Glad to help
Exactly what I was searching for!life saver!
Awesome!
I have a handgun with an front sight that's off center with green locktight. I understand heat will melt ot but this particular sight has a polymer bead and I'm afraid to melt it. Is there anything that will soften it without melting the rest of the sight?
The polymer bead will melt over 375F. You can soften the Loctite ay around 250
@@PetesGarage ok thanks
@@PetesGarage boiling water work you think?
That's a good start
Hi, can Loctite 510 be used to mate motorcycle crankcase halves made of aluminium alloy, without a primer activator? I bought 510 since 518 was not available. Thank you.
Yes you can
Excellent info, thanks!
Thanks my friend
I used Loctite 262 on some screws that hold my primary gear to my clutch basket on my dirt bike. Let it set for about an hour and a half. Then put oil in the bike and did a test run. Will oil dissolve the loctite, or should it be good to go? Thanks!!
You should have no problems, but you will have to heat it up to remove it.
@@PetesGarage Thank you!!
whats the best loctite type for thrust bearing rtd sensor
Does the manufacturer recommend a thread locker? I'm not sure on an RTD
I have a pair of reluctor rings that are slightly larger than the driveshaft I'm attempting to attach them to. Can red loctite successfully hold them in place or is this more of a 2-part epoxy type job?
Epoxy for sure
@@PetesGarage Thanks bro. Great videos btw. Really enjoying the engine building series. Subscribed.
Hey Pete. Thanks for the information. I guess all my Loctite is garbage. It is about 4 years old. Does old Loctite stay moist? Or what happens to it. I think most viewers would lite to know what would happen if old Loctite is used. Thanks for sharing Pete.👍👍
Old Loctite loses the ability to crystallize and create retention. You can still use it, but it's worth it just to buy new.
@@PetesGarage Thanks Pete
i Like your Garage and the Holy Cross in the Back Ground - Thanks for the Idea
Thank you, you have to be grounded in faith, any faith
I Also Noticed This!!.....It Is Good to See!!
They should make a faster removal spray that works against rust since they are so good at securing fasteners. Something that dissolves loctite and rust and penetrates threw
Good idea, although removing rust is a different school of products from securing fasteners. Acetone will dissolve Loctite.
Very informative......
and Balloons!
Gotta have balloons
I use 290 for a different purpose, to prevent erosion of the parent metal around the valve seats on Myers’s high pressure water pumps. Anywhere where the 290 wick onto doesn’t get eroded by the high volume or pressure of the water, yet the non coated 290 parent metal will erode. Something so simple saves these pumps from being thrown aways.
Awesome tip, thanks
LOCTITE® 290 is a green, medium-high strength wicking threadlocker
I have a power steering pump long bolt. The female has part of the inside stripped, just slighty, but enough for it not to lock it. I know they have a thread repair kit, but would any of these work instead?
I would use a helicoil, or tap to the next largest size
Don't be a hack.
What about testing the Loctite 542 for hydraulic oil pressure.
I'm sure those tests exist
hey, great video, i need the strongest loctite, would the epoxy be the strongest? im trying to permanently stick a nut onto a stuck stud. since i do not kno how to weld and weld them together, i need something close to it. ive heard about loctite 660, loctite epoxy, and j-b weld, which do u think would be the best/strongest?
j-b weld works great
@@PetesGarage thank you sir, ill try that
Good stuff, thanks for the rundown. And BTW, what's the right solvent to unseal my lips? :0
Good question!
Well I tried the 270 with S316 and anodized aluminium. It doesnt work at all. Is there any stuff that would work for this?
Thank you
What part was stainless and what was anodize?
@@PetesGarage well I guess I've got my mistake. I guess the most important thing is to put enough material on it. So all the threads that needs to be glued must be with filled up with glue. So don't try to put just some drops on it. If you take of the nut or bolt all threats needs to be filled up.
So aluminum and stainless steel connection works if done as I said. Before I just made 2 thin lines on the thread which didn't cover it. Now I put on one layer all around the first edge, pretty juicy. After bolt is mounted still there is some left overs that I cleaned of.
Loctite is anerobic. That means it cures in the absence of air. You shouldn't need to put that much on there, but the hole and bolt have to be very clean, no oil or grease.
@@PetesGarage well before I didn't put enough on it and that's been the issue I've had. Sure it doesn't need to swim but all the space between the thread needs to be filled up with that juice.
Did you shake it thoroughly or is it expired? Exposure to heat or letting is freeze will change it's ability to lock.
I use #243 on refrigeration systems due to vibration and expansion and contraction
Thanks for sharing
Why do most of the 2oz bottles only have .34 FL Oz in them. I’ve had people tell me that if they fill the bottle up, it will remove the air from the bottle and the thread locker will harden in the bottle. But then I’ve also read that there has to be active metal with the absence of air for it to harden, in which case it wouldn’t harden in the bottle even if it was full. I’m just trying to figure out why my bottles are only 1/4 to 1/3 full when I buy them. It seems a little misleading.
That is misleading. They are anaerobic which means they cure in the absence of air.
I think both things are true. It will harden or "set" in the absence of air (oxygen) but the metal acts as a catalyst (speeding up the reaction), without changing the reaction. That's why different metals have different cure times.
Question, 243 for oily surfaces but must be clean and oil free when you apply it... ?
Since it is anaerobic, the surface must be clean before using, like any other sealer. It is resistant to industrial oils
I didn't use Loctite on the bolts of automatic converter got loose and it struck the startmotor had to replace it.Cracked the Housing
Expensive Mistake!
ouch
Tough lesson, torque is important on those.
Made that mistake to 40 years ago. Now always a dab of blue on torque converter bolts and torque to specs