huh... I might suggest printing at a canted angle with a tiny support just at the bottom. If there are a lot of overhangs at the same angle, it totally reduces dripped overhangs. I'd also put big holes in the flat sides the fans sit in to reduce weight further, because of the whole "less weight, less to support" mode of thought, but I'm not sure if it could totally handle the heat without warping like that.
I can't put holes in what looks like flat sides because the wall thickness is very small, and wherever the object is more bulky the print is only 20% solid anyway. Holes would add wall shells, and actually increase weight. If it were cast from solid I would be putting holes anywhere I can. I guess that is one of the benefits of 3D printing. The overhangs are tricky, but not causing any problems mechanically with the part's performance.
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W3D1 | Summer | เริ่มต้น สัปดาห์ตัดสิน](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pWsl9LhC2Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
huh... I might suggest printing at a canted angle with a tiny support just at the bottom. If there are a lot of overhangs at the same angle, it totally reduces dripped overhangs. I'd also put big holes in the flat sides the fans sit in to reduce weight further, because of the whole "less weight, less to support" mode of thought, but I'm not sure if it could totally handle the heat without warping like that.
I can't put holes in what looks like flat sides because the wall thickness is very small, and wherever the object is more bulky the print is only 20% solid anyway.
Holes would add wall shells, and actually increase weight.
If it were cast from solid I would be putting holes anywhere I can.
I guess that is one of the benefits of 3D printing.
The overhangs are tricky, but not causing any problems mechanically with the part's performance.
That print is hell!
Deneteus yeah but it worked :)
I would consider that one for the team.