First here!! haha Mate.. looking really really good.. I think it should be right at the front, I like the look of a PCB, its very small not a big deal and the LED blinking gives that high-tech final touch, plus its much easy to access, better cooling... =]
HBPowerwall hahaaaa my 42000w little trike, my ultimate suicidal machine!!! Mate, every time I come to your channel... you got at least 1000 new subscribers and thousands and thousands more views haha always pumping... the Facebook community is almost overtaking Endless Sphere... EVERYONE LOVES YOU ohh yeaahh
I have to agree with the placement up front. It will let you easily see it, and if you ever have to remove the pack you don't have too worry about removing the lead. It makes the unit a self contained thing. If you where worried about getting glue or something on the board, use some clear shrink tube on the board so that you are sticking the tube to the runner and not the actual BMS board it self.
After watching "Powerwall packs DESTROYED! KABOOM!" by "DIY Tech & Repairs" I personally would put the bars facing out, even though it's ugly, but when you put them on the side, it looks really nice and neat!
I think for reliability and visual indication put them on the front will also be a reminder too when you go to remove the packs for any reason to disconnect the mon board otherwise on the side you may forget it and pull the wires
Hello there I use xt60(Amass) connector with cover on back on every pack....they are rated up to 60A and look really good all insulated.... Looking good new busbars👍
You can build a simple wire stripper using a 2x4 with a hole just large enough for the wire and a drywall screw into the side of the hole just deep enough for the point to cut the insulation. Can be done to cut the larger bundles and individual wires as making a hole and a drywall screw per size is easy and cheap. For bundle wire holes 2 smaller sized holes drilled together work well for flatter bundle wires then a large single hole with room for the wire to move around. A C-clamp to mount it to the table and you just pull the wire to cut it and can peal it ether as you pull or after with no strain on the wire. When stripping the wires a bucket or trash can to pull the wire across lets you collect the insulation as it is separated to reduce repeat work.
On the front think best, so you can see the LED. Did you find out the maximum current of those batteries together? Not sure it will cope on that copper wires.
I'd love to see you sand pack the entire tray and smelt solder in a crucible and pour your terminals. Only if you have the spare time then you could reclaim copper if the forge is of adequate build. for future endeavours, it could provide some help.
I’ve been watching you for a couple of weeks mate when I ran around this method. Am not sure if it will met my main needs of powering half of the houses that uses we will say on worse time of year 40kw. But it does have other possibilities that am thinking of. Your design is clean and practical unlike some of the of ones I have looked at. I do have some disagreements but haven’t yet came up with the answers myself so I can’t fault you there. I’ll cover that in a bit. The use of strained wire is better because it can carry the amperage better. As I think you know, the current rides on the outside of the wire and not through it; so it’s better for that. It should have the same surface area as what you did before but much easier in the construction. Here is what I think I would do. I know you made the jig on the fly but I think I would use trim wood to help bend the wires near the correct shape. You may need some claps of sorts to keep the wire locked into position as you formed its layout. But if may not be worth it as you maybe nearing the end of your build I think. For myself am just going to run two wire from the centre positions of the left rows and right rows and not wrap it around at the base as you did. I don’t see the point or gain in doing this; electrically speaking. I will keep it in place using clear silicone sealant. Now, this is the bit I haven’t liked on any ones design and I haven’t solved it myself. It’s the the way each bank is connected together. No matter if it is horizontal or vertical and I have seen both. It would be better for safety sake if it wasn’t bolted together. I see all kind of chances of dropped bits getting between and shorting out the lot. When these batteries do explode its a mess. I saw another bloke that used a vertical shelf but kept it negative to negative or positive to positive on the shelve so it reduces that possibility. But giving the housing I think heat will be it’s overall problem verses your design. What I would like to come up with is where it would connect to some automotive style connector which the wires go to the other bank using the same connector to plug into it. The problem is it’s not very tidy even through its more safety minded. I guess it could be hidden under a plate which is what am thinking about as I write this. But I’ve been trying to think of something that it could plug into which may not be practical. If I could then it wouldn’t be a powerwall but a power cube that would sit on the floor with indicator LEDs on the sides where if there is a problem you would remove the fault module and replace it with another one. Then I would have the same problem as am looking at if I use a forklift battery which is what am also considering. Loss of floor space but much more lighter. The problem for that design is the battery pack temperature. So, temp sensors would have to be added to enable fans to blow it out. Since the power will have to come from the packs then there would be a loss of power to run that. Thinking about a power cube design it would have to have some sort of power management. Not that BMS nonsense I keep seeing for bikes and what-not that charges each cell. But to look at each module for performance issues (voltage and current) and temperature. If any of the packs were bad then it would disable all modules in that given array to prevent damage to the rest and the fore mentioned explosions. Then just replace the pack and reset it so it will re-enable the module array. Either way it would have to have a super structure build to house all of the packs and manage the cooling of it. Now, let me say why I have been thinking about this. There are a number of people around the world working the next generation batteries. There is one bloke in the UK that has increased the storage of a battery. All of the ones I have looked at are using graphene or graphene oxide. In all of the claims as it hasn’t been fully fielded really is that a battery the size of 18650 could be increased to be 3.7v @ 185A. Now, I don’t believe that amperage but even if its four to six times greater then it makes this something I need to look at more seriously. Now, these cells are really supercaps in battery style housings as it’s not really charging it chemically but statically. So, if it can store say 3.7v @ 20A then it’s something I need to seriously look at.
Who told you that stranded wire carries the DC amperage better? You need to educate yourself before posting such nonsense. RE: BMS - clearly, you have no idea what a LongMon is or does ...
I'd put the long Mon on the side (between the busbars) and could you use large spade terminals to join the packs and if the spade terminals don't have the current carrying capacity you want you could place the bus bar is a x pattern with a join were they cross in the middle and then have 4 spade terminals one at each corner I'd also use heat shrink or some other insulator between the last solder join and the terminal to join to the next pack :-)
At 1:30 you non-nonchalantly mention you bought a Flir cam. That's a solid $500 piece of kit here, and worth it's own video imo! Keep up the solid work!
I wanna do exactly what you did here... did you make a video on how to hook up, connect the longmons?... for us beginners just starting out?...thanks...i also love the 4 by 20 set up...
I think i covered it in this play list - sorry just have so many videos i don't really know if there is one that tells you everything th-cam.com/video/v_4ggDN7290/w-d-xo.html
The front mate if one fails it would be much harder to get it out to replace it. I do not know how many strands you used but I am thinking of using number 10 multiy strand wire on my next ones I do
With your buzz bar cable, can I suggest that you get 10mm2 85 Amp or 16mm2 110 Amp building cable that comes in single rolls of either red or black. You might be able to get 50m of each online in eBay.
My vote is for putting it on the front. Putting it on the side of the pack makes me a bit uncomfortable. Did you know, you can make those end terminals out of copper tubing. Cut, flatten one end and drill out the mounting hole. You are then only limited to the available tubing sizes. You don't get the purdy plating on them, but then you have enough exposed copper in your system.
You Could you put it on the top on the tin metal strip, that way you could see the LEDs from the top and it is out of the way, and good for cooling as its. Mounted on the metal strip
I don't know about down there in Australia, but here in the USA we can go to Home Depot and buy 12 AWG wire that is un-insulated and in about 250' spools. I don't know how the cost would be, but it would be ready to go right away.
Are you sure you know where the camera lens is? It's the shiny glass circle. Not the plastic side thing with little holes in it. That would be the microphone. Then we would be able to see what you got in your hand. Nice work area and I like the organization you put into your work. Good job chum. Just poken you about the lens.
Spin a line of solder into your wire before you form the buss bar and then heat the buss bar to melt the solder into place in the form it will stay rigid then when fusing across you can just wrap and heat the cross connects .
@@HBPowerwall Don't you think it better to twist ONLY the copper conductors first and then apply soldering iron (heat) and then slide down the wire with solder? Copper is a much better conductor than solder.
So which is better. Im building up for 14s100p to start. Im curious is there any electrical benefit to running say multiple banks of 14s10p. I get there would be little less wiring going bigger. But i want the packs to serviceable. Being able to remove smaller packs for spot testing and hot swap easier. Im thinking larger packs make for harder to change that one bad cell in the center of a 100p or eventually like to be talking 400p and larger.
Peter what gauge is the wire your using, maybe you don't use gauge in Australia, what is the maximum amps the wire is rated for?? Are you using all of the strands?
If you solder the ends for a distance it becomes a rod, so it might be solid enough as is. The individual wire strands can slide on each other, where as if they were soldered together it would become a rod with a greater 2nd moment, thereby more rigid.
Not sure if you should put it on the side or the back, but I can tell you where you can put that music. lol But seriously, like your videos, very helpful. Doing my first bike pack build and think I'll go with what you did here. Roughly how many of the wires would you braid together for a 48V 22 or so AH pack? and how many 2000 to 2300 mAh batteries do I need and how should I arrange them? (I'd like to get away with 120 or so pcs that I already have from matched batteries) Oh, and what size are those single braided wires? Or better yet the identification numbers from the whole wire as it came from the store, before it was taken apart would be very helpful? Thanks again for the videos.
just thinking about a nice way to figure out each of your various packs. since there are a variety of colors. do your outside not just in blue but do one in red one in green one in blue and one in yellow.. the idea is that it allows you to show which pack by age of the cells or the ah ratings
Hello i have a Question. Couldn't you use like a number #10 or #8 Solid core wire to get the same size then if you was putting all three of the #18 or #14 AWG wire together?
hi Pete I'm new to all of this but looking at setting my house up I have a zeversolor 2.5 kw dolor system on my house now feeding back to the grid just want to know if I can use that system and add a batty bank to it before I stay sorting out the batteries
using that smaller cable made testing so much harder the 10mm cable would have sat and bent into position so much easier also are you going to heat shrink the copper at the terminal end? as for the pcb, visible IMO as you'll be able to use the flir to check it easier
I split my battery, so if I have 28 cellmons for a 2P14S battery I make the daisy chain with 14 and parallel the other 14 or make the daisy chain with the 28
It's really where ever I can - nowhere is out of bounds to ask the question - shameless self-promotion (talking about my own project too much) sometimes helps lol
You fused every 5-10 batteries but I have seen the big car Mfg fuse each battery. Is it OK to not fuse all the cells? Just more safe if you fuse all cells?
hi wear i can get the black base on the wall to hold the battery pack on the wall like that. i really want to do it like your, lead me know thank you you amigo Hector from orlando florida
I've released all the plans on the DIYPowerwalls forum here - www.diypowerwalls.com/t-HBPowerwall-Official?pid=885#pid885 . The only person in the US making them is Mike www.diypowerwalls.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=26 he made 20x6 mine are 20x4 - but hit him up not sure if he has any left.
Please correct me.I am new to power wall. All 80 cells possitive one side and negative one side. So what is the results of this pack alone? 3.7V and 200,000mAh? Also what is the fuse wire you have used to connect all the cells. Please give me a link. I do not know where to find it to buy?
They just dont, quite a lot of friction in betwen them and once you have them on the batteries they open in opposite directions and therefore keep each other together.
nearly impossible to say. I had 10 identical looking battery packs with identical specs and there were 3 different brands of cells between them, Samsung, LG and Panasonic. I guess the production dates were different. The grey ones are panasonic cells, and probably the 2900mAh ones. The OPUS BT-C3100 he uses to test the cells shows about 10-15% more mAh then it really is, so those cells are about 2550-2700mAh in real life. I have quite a few of the same cells testing 3000mAh in the same charger.
If you have a seatbelt in your car you use it... same goes with batteries - A good BMS is seatbelt & airbags for your system - I use www.batrium.com BMS
Can any battery nerds answer this for me. I have some lifepo4 18650, they all are externally metal (originally wrapped in plastic that is removed), and all but the very top is negative. So, you can just sit them next to each other side by side with no risk of a short, as it's all negative on the outside. I'm thinking instead of welding all the bottoms together for the negative connection, that I would just let all the bare metal cylinders touch which is a lot of surface area actually, and then just heat shrink them tight. So, would not need to do all that tab welding or soldering of wires on the negative side anyway. As I don't like how if 1 cell would die I would have to desolder all that mess just to find the bad cell. I could just remove the heat shrink and seperate the the cells with card board then test them individually. This would only be done for the parallel battery blocks of course. Anyway, guess the question is, is there anything special about the bottom of the cell that makes it a better location for the negatives to be attached, like is it thicker, or something. These cells were reclaimed from a bad 12 volt battery used for a medical device, so I already had to "detab them' once, and in that process ruined some of them, but like 2/3rd were good and I have sever of the bigger 12volt batteries, so will be making my own 24 volt battery from the cells. THANSK!!!!!!!!!
No, you can NOT just heat shrink the entire pack together - that is NOT an electric connection. And when a cell fails - you just cut that cell out the pack and re-insert a new cell.
Here is one of those tips of a lifetime for stripping wire! Get a piece of preferably some hardwood (oak) about 2in.wide X 4-6in long. Drill a hole just slightly bigger than your wire in the piece of wood then drill another pilot hole perpindicular to that hole on the opposite side of the piece of wood! This is a pilot hole for a woodscrew that you screw into the piece just so it sticks into the original hole for the wire about 1/32in. start your wire through the hole about 2 ft. then pull . The screw point will cut the insulation. adjust the screw as neccesary so the wire doesnt bind up when you pull it!
I've been watching your project with interest. 6 cells in series seems to be working good for me with the Nissan Leaf Batteries for a year now with no balancing problems but lots of paralleling. The less in series the better off you are. I don't think it's a good idea to go 48V with these. Also with the chemistry all mixed up and of unknown ages balancing is going to be a problem and you will need more expensive high amp balancers to keep up with it. Some advice for those who are thinking of doing this, but I like the project and you have a lot of power there to manage, it's like your own power company. Anything to piss off the power company is a good thing! th-cam.com/video/uC12qdkExTE/w-d-xo.html
Can any one please tell me does fake Opus-BT-C3100 clones exist as I am ordering 2 from ebay. Cannot fine anyware comparison about fake Opus-BT-C3100 clones.
A bit too late to advise but if the green cable is the one you will not use you should have pulled on that one. It is never good to pull from a cable you are going to actually use.
It blows my mind to see different types of batteries. I mean, they look like different brands, specs and even chemistries. What gives? This scares the crap out of me.
Ever thought of using copper tubing for a cheaper, more conductive crimp end? If you trim the corners they even look pretty professional. m.th-cam.com/video/RpFb_Yxl_hA/w-d-xo.html
First here!! haha
Mate.. looking really really good.. I think it should be right at the front, I like the look of a PCB, its very small not a big deal and the LED blinking gives that high-tech final touch, plus its much easy to access, better cooling... =]
DUDEEE was totally watching your last video before I started to make this vid, your YT channel was on the screen of my computer
HBPowerwall hahaaaa my 42000w little trike, my ultimate suicidal machine!!! Mate, every time I come to your channel... you got at least 1000 new subscribers and thousands and thousands more views haha always pumping... the Facebook community is almost overtaking Endless Sphere... EVERYONE LOVES YOU ohh yeaahh
I have to agree with the placement up front. It will let you easily see it, and if you ever have to remove the pack you don't have too worry about removing the lead. It makes the unit a self contained thing. If you where worried about getting glue or something on the board, use some clear shrink tube on the board so that you are sticking the tube to the runner and not the actual BMS board it self.
Uk Solar Engineer .Respect to your Efforts and Sharing that effort with the World.
Thank you, I enjoy the process as much as sharing it.
After watching "Powerwall packs DESTROYED! KABOOM!" by "DIY Tech & Repairs" I personally would put the bars facing out, even though it's ugly, but when you put them on the side, it looks really nice and neat!
I think for reliability and visual indication put them on the front will also be a reminder too when you go to remove the packs for any reason to disconnect the mon board otherwise on the side you may forget it and pull the wires
wow thats looking really good :) I do like that new busbar design
Thanks bud
I enjoy watching your pack construction time-lapse. It's well done :)
Thank YOu :)
Hello there
I use xt60(Amass) connector with cover on back on every pack....they are rated up to 60A and look really good all insulated....
Looking good new busbars👍
You can build a simple wire stripper using a 2x4 with a hole just large enough for the wire and a drywall screw into the side of the hole just deep enough for the point to cut the insulation.
Can be done to cut the larger bundles and individual wires as making a hole and a drywall screw per size is easy and cheap. For bundle wire holes 2 smaller sized holes drilled together work well for flatter bundle wires then a large single hole with room for the wire to move around.
A C-clamp to mount it to the table and you just pull the wire to cut it and can peal it ether as you pull or after with no strain on the wire. When stripping the wires a bucket or trash can to pull the wire across lets you collect the insulation as it is separated to reduce repeat work.
On the front think best, so you can see the LED. Did you find out the maximum current of those batteries together? Not sure it will cope on that copper wires.
I know this is very long time ago but still applies to everyday. Accessible is always better. Doesn’t matter how it looks if you can’t get to it.
Awesome tip with the drill
Not my idea but it is a bloody good one :)
I'd love to see you sand pack the entire tray and smelt solder in a crucible and pour your terminals. Only if you have the spare time then you could reclaim copper if the forge is of adequate build. for future endeavours, it could provide some help.
Watching you from Atlanta Georgia keep up with your good work, and thanks,
+Rigoberto Tejada all your posts with links are going straight to spam sorry
I’ve been watching you for a couple of weeks mate when I ran around this method. Am not sure if it will met my main needs of powering half of the houses that uses we will say on worse time of year 40kw. But it does have other possibilities that am thinking of. Your design is clean and practical unlike some of the of ones I have looked at. I do have some disagreements but haven’t yet came up with the answers myself so I can’t fault you there. I’ll cover that in a bit. The use of strained wire is better because it can carry the amperage better. As I think you know, the current rides on the outside of the wire and not through it; so it’s better for that. It should have the same surface area as what you did before but much easier in the construction. Here is what I think I would do. I know you made the jig on the fly but I think I would use trim wood to help bend the wires near the correct shape. You may need some claps of sorts to keep the wire locked into position as you formed its layout. But if may not be worth it as you maybe nearing the end of your build I think. For myself am just going to run two wire from the centre positions of the left rows and right rows and not wrap it around at the base as you did. I don’t see the point or gain in doing this; electrically speaking. I will keep it in place using clear silicone sealant.
Now, this is the bit I haven’t liked on any ones design and I haven’t solved it myself. It’s the the way each bank is connected together. No matter if it is horizontal or vertical and I have seen both. It would be better for safety sake if it wasn’t bolted together. I see all kind of chances of dropped bits getting between and shorting out the lot. When these batteries do explode its a mess. I saw another bloke that used a vertical shelf but kept it negative to negative or positive to positive on the shelve so it reduces that possibility. But giving the housing I think heat will be it’s overall problem verses your design. What I would like to come up with is where it would connect to some automotive style connector which the wires go to the other bank using the same connector to plug into it. The problem is it’s not very tidy even through its more safety minded. I guess it could be hidden under a plate which is what am thinking about as I write this. But I’ve been trying to think of something that it could plug into which may not be practical. If I could then it wouldn’t be a powerwall but a power cube that would sit on the floor with indicator LEDs on the sides where if there is a problem you would remove the fault module and replace it with another one. Then I would have the same problem as am looking at if I use a forklift battery which is what am also considering. Loss of floor space but much more lighter. The problem for that design is the battery pack temperature. So, temp sensors would have to be added to enable fans to blow it out. Since the power will have to come from the packs then there would be a loss of power to run that.
Thinking about a power cube design it would have to have some sort of power management. Not that BMS nonsense I keep seeing for bikes and what-not that charges each cell. But to look at each module for performance issues (voltage and current) and temperature. If any of the packs were bad then it would disable all modules in that given array to prevent damage to the rest and the fore mentioned explosions. Then just replace the pack and reset it so it will re-enable the module array. Either way it would have to have a super structure build to house all of the packs and manage the cooling of it.
Now, let me say why I have been thinking about this. There are a number of people around the world working the next generation batteries. There is one bloke in the UK that has increased the storage of a battery. All of the ones I have looked at are using graphene or graphene oxide. In all of the claims as it hasn’t been fully fielded really is that a battery the size of 18650 could be increased to be 3.7v @ 185A. Now, I don’t believe that amperage but even if its four to six times greater then it makes this something I need to look at more seriously. Now, these cells are really supercaps in battery style housings as it’s not really charging it chemically but statically. So, if it can store say 3.7v @ 20A then it’s something I need to seriously look at.
Who told you that stranded wire carries the DC amperage better? You need to educate yourself before posting such nonsense. RE: BMS - clearly, you have no idea what a LongMon is or does ...
I'd put the long Mon on the side (between the busbars) and could you use large spade terminals to join the packs and if the spade terminals don't have the current carrying capacity you want you could place the bus bar is a x pattern with a join were they cross in the middle and then have 4 spade terminals one at each corner I'd also use heat shrink or some other insulator between the last solder join and the terminal to join to the next pack :-)
At 1:30 you non-nonchalantly mention you bought a Flir cam. That's a solid $500 piece of kit here, and worth it's own video imo! Keep up the solid work!
$1800 , but it's not mine :)
I wanna do exactly what you did here... did you make a video on how to hook up, connect the longmons?... for us beginners just starting out?...thanks...i also love the 4 by 20 set up...
I think i covered it in this play list - sorry just have so many videos i don't really know if there is one that tells you everything th-cam.com/video/v_4ggDN7290/w-d-xo.html
The front mate if one fails it would be much harder to get it out to replace it. I do not know how many strands you used but I am thinking of using number 10 multiy strand wire on my next ones I do
heya on the pack I think so the + and - are closes to the pack and no need of making the wires longer
side looks the best. If your just going for looks. God Bless Brother.
With your buzz bar cable, can I suggest that you get 10mm2 85 Amp or 16mm2 110 Amp building cable that comes in single rolls of either red or black. You might be able to get 50m of each online in eBay.
WHY ?
i think the balancer should go against the wall mount, metal = conductive and will help pull the heat away from the resistors
thats why i twin them.. when twinned they kep them self straight :) but i see that you use other type with what it looks thinner copper wire
My vote is for putting it on the front. Putting it on the side of the pack makes me a bit uncomfortable. Did you know, you can make those end terminals out of copper tubing. Cut, flatten one end and drill out the mounting hole. You are then only limited to the available tubing sizes. You don't get the purdy plating on them, but then you have enough exposed copper in your system.
+ 1 for front - thank you :) Hadn't considered making my own terminals
You Could you put it on the top on the tin metal strip, that way you could see the LEDs from the top and it is out of the way, and good for cooling as its. Mounted on the metal strip
I don't know about down there in Australia, but here in the USA we can go to Home Depot and buy 12 AWG wire that is un-insulated and in about 250' spools. I don't know how the cost would be, but it would be ready to go right away.
I DON"T think you can here. Many have tho on www.diypowerwalls.com
Totally on the front, that last pack in the corner of your shed would really hard to see if you put it anywhere else :)
Are you sure you know where the camera lens is? It's the shiny glass circle. Not the plastic side thing with little holes in it. That would be the microphone. Then we would be able to see what you got in your hand. Nice work area and I like the organization you put into your work. Good job chum. Just poken you about the lens.
Spin a line of solder into your wire before you form the buss bar and then heat the buss bar to melt the solder into place in the form it will stay rigid then when fusing across you can just wrap and heat the cross connects .
That's not such a bad idea!
@@HBPowerwall Don't you think it better to twist ONLY the copper conductors first and then apply soldering iron (heat) and then slide down the wire with solder? Copper is a much better conductor than solder.
So which is better. Im building up for 14s100p to start. Im curious is there any electrical benefit to running say multiple banks of 14s10p. I get there would be little less wiring going bigger. But i want the packs to serviceable. Being able to remove smaller packs for spot testing and hot swap easier. Im thinking larger packs make for harder to change that one bad cell in the center of a 100p or eventually like to be talking 400p and larger.
Peter what gauge is the wire your using, maybe you don't use gauge in Australia, what is the maximum amps the wire is rated for?? Are you using all of the strands?
Editing tip: make the music quieter when you speak or disable it completely. It's quite hard to understand you when the music is playing in parallel.
Yeah, you have it turned up to hear what is being said and then it blasts your eardrums, which is quite painful for my tinnitus.
The BB looks a bit flimsy where it joins at the lug. I would solder 75mm of the ends of that twisted wire to increase stiffness.
It is very flimsy however this was just a test fitment to work it all out. Ones I'm making at the moment are twice as thick :)
If you solder the ends for a distance it becomes a rod, so it might be solid enough as is. The individual wire strands can slide on each other, where as if they were soldered together it would become a rod with a greater 2nd moment, thereby more rigid.
Not sure if you should put it on the side or the back, but I can tell you where you can put that music. lol
But seriously, like your videos, very helpful. Doing my first bike pack build and think I'll go with what you did here. Roughly how many of the wires would you braid together for a 48V 22 or so AH pack? and how many 2000 to 2300 mAh batteries do I need and how should I arrange them? (I'd like to get away with 120 or so pcs that I already have from matched batteries)
Oh, and what size are those single braided wires? Or better yet the identification numbers from the whole wire as it came from the store, before it was taken apart would be very helpful?
Thanks again for the videos.
I just used 6mm square household wire to make the bus bars that's all I can tell you about them really - walked in went that one and took it home..
just thinking about a nice way to figure out each of your various packs. since there are a variety of colors. do your outside not just in blue but do one in red one in green one in blue and one in yellow.. the idea is that it allows you to show which pack by age of the cells or the ah ratings
NOOOO, my OCD would melt down!
LOL had a question the small wires you put on is that a current path as well as a fusable link to protect your packs?
Yes every cell is fused on the positive side
I love it, keep doing good mate.
Will do :)
Lookin good Pete, Yes you ;) Do you know the gauge of that wire? I know you said the test one was the ground and it was thinner
Hello system now how do you use the status ? how many years ?
I like the front, anything that may make work easier down the road will be worth the trouble.
I was loving down the side of the pack, but with all the feedback Yep, I'm all for putting it on the front :)
This looking really good how many circuits in home do you have on the pip4048ms
Hello i have a Question. Couldn't you use like a number #10 or #8 Solid core wire to get the same size then if you was putting all three of the #18 or #14 AWG wire together?
many already do, but not sure if its the right or wrong way of doing it
@@HBPowerwall WHY do think twisting 3 smaller wires together is BETTER?
hi Pete I'm new to all of this but looking at setting my house up I have a zeversolor 2.5 kw dolor system on my house now feeding back to the grid just want to know if I can use that system and add a batty bank to it before I stay sorting out the batteries
Rick, sorry bud really can't help you there. Guess a good place to start would be inverter manufacturer and just ask the question.
thanks for spending the time to get back to me that was going to b my next port of call
No problem
Have you thought about getting nickel tabs to minimise cell heating? I would be interested to hear your thoughts on it.
Better but this is cheaper
using that smaller cable made testing so much harder the 10mm cable would have sat and bent into position so much easier also are you going to heat shrink the copper at the terminal end? as for the pcb, visible IMO as you'll be able to use the flir to check it easier
3 twisted is 1/2 the price...
I split my battery, so if I have 28 cellmons for a 2P14S battery I make the daisy chain with 14 and parallel the other 14 or make the daisy chain with the 28
4 times 2,5mm wire?
Where did u get all them cells good work
It's really where ever I can - nowhere is out of bounds to ask the question - shameless self-promotion (talking about my own project too much) sometimes helps lol
It really looks good :D
hi love your set up quick questions 1st how many amps is one pack and voltage. 2nd is total of each square 36-48volt and total amps
How many (max) AMPS per your cell ? Then multiply by # of cells per pack. Voltage = all cells are in parallel.
You fused every 5-10 batteries but I have seen the big car Mfg fuse each battery. Is it OK to not fuse all the cells? Just more safe if you fuse all cells?
Did you not understand ... this was LAY-OUT test ...
Pardon me if it's already been said, but what batteries source the grey cells ?
Been studying and avoiding youtube recently
BitsAndBites The grey cells come out of some Panasonic packs.
Foe a 120p pack how many wires you need to twist toether?
That would depend on your load and how big those wires were I guess.
hi wear i can get the black base on the wall to hold the battery pack on the wall like that. i really want to do it like your, lead me know thank you you amigo Hector from orlando florida
I've released all the plans on the DIYPowerwalls forum here - www.diypowerwalls.com/t-HBPowerwall-Official?pid=885#pid885 . The only person in the US making them is Mike www.diypowerwalls.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=26 he made 20x6 mine are 20x4 - but hit him up not sure if he has any left.
thank you you the man
Please correct me.I am new to power wall. All 80 cells possitive one side and negative one side. So what is the results of this pack alone? 3.7V and 200,000mAh? Also what is the fuse wire you have used to connect all the cells. Please give me a link. I do not know where to find it to buy?
Google "fuse wire". Yes, 3.7 v @ ~200Ah
@@MrSummitville Thanks. It one full year gone and you came first to reply. Great.
Lol can’t get em all
Reply to 100s a day
@@HBPowerwall 😊
What method do you use to keep the battery holders from coming apart?
They just dont, quite a lot of friction in betwen them and once you have them on the batteries they open in opposite directions and therefore keep each other together.
Hey dostum böyle bir pil ünitesi mı elektrikli bisikletimde kullanabilirim motor 1200 lük
For the bus bar, you are using how many wires of what gauge? Thks in advance.
I would also like to know this.
Use enough wire to per your max Load Amps required and keep losses below 1%.
can you send me a link wear you get the fuse wire roll you using in this video please thank you from orlando fl
I have a link in my Amazon store here - www.amazon.com/shop/hbpowerwall
can you please make a video showing every cell you own with an estimated count?
I have in service 7000+ cells, more than half of them for more than 2 years
@@HBPowerwall sweet
I would put it on a metal plate for better heat transfer
what batteries did you get the grey cells out of?
nearly impossible to say. I had 10 identical looking battery packs with identical specs and there were 3 different brands of cells between them, Samsung, LG and Panasonic. I guess the production dates were different.
The grey ones are panasonic cells, and probably the 2900mAh ones. The OPUS BT-C3100 he uses to test the cells shows about 10-15% more mAh then it really is, so those cells are about 2550-2700mAh in real life. I have quite a few of the same cells testing 3000mAh in the same charger.
longmons: hiding them makes it tidy but you will not see the statusleds. not sure what i would do frankly hmmm
Is bms necessary or does it work with out bms what do you recommend
If you have a seatbelt in your car you use it... same goes with batteries - A good BMS is seatbelt & airbags for your system - I use www.batrium.com BMS
Can any battery nerds answer this for me. I have some lifepo4 18650, they all are externally metal (originally wrapped in plastic that is removed), and all but the very top is negative. So, you can just sit them next to each other side by side with no risk of a short, as it's all negative on the outside. I'm thinking instead of welding all the bottoms together for the negative connection, that I would just let all the bare metal cylinders touch which is a lot of surface area actually, and then just heat shrink them tight. So, would not need to do all that tab welding or soldering of wires on the negative side anyway. As I don't like how if 1 cell would die I would have to desolder all that mess just to find the bad cell. I could just remove the heat shrink and seperate the the cells with card board then test them individually. This would only be done for the parallel battery blocks of course.
Anyway, guess the question is, is there anything special about the bottom of the cell that makes it a better location for the negatives to be attached, like is it thicker, or something.
These cells were reclaimed from a bad 12 volt battery used for a medical device, so I already had to "detab them' once, and in that process ruined some of them, but like 2/3rd were good and I have sever of the bigger 12volt batteries, so will be making my own 24 volt battery from the cells.
THANSK!!!!!!!!!
No, you can NOT just heat shrink the entire pack together - that is NOT an electric connection. And when a cell fails - you just cut that cell out the pack and re-insert a new cell.
longmon on the front looks better :)
why the thin wires on batteries
fuses
Here is one of those tips of a lifetime for stripping wire! Get a piece of preferably some hardwood (oak) about 2in.wide X 4-6in long. Drill a hole just slightly bigger than your wire in the piece of wood then drill another pilot hole perpindicular to that hole on the opposite side of the piece of wood! This is a pilot hole for a woodscrew that you screw into the piece just so it sticks into the original hole for the wire about 1/32in. start your wire through the hole about 2 ft. then pull . The screw point will cut the insulation. adjust the screw as neccesary so the wire doesnt bind up when you pull it!
don't use the bus bar terminal at the top. just leave enough copper wire and Loop it around so the bolt will go through for your main busbar
I have considered this how ever I think I would feel better if I had a nice strong crimped end. Your idea would be a cheaper option for sure.
HBPowerwall make your eye and solder it as one piece it's pretty damn tough try one
電瓶會壞有一半是被充壞的! (鋰电池同)
ㄧ般充电12~13v充电，這电压是非常高，因為电池就好比一個电容器充电是一樣的道理!
如:12v交流經橋式整流後會減1.5v也就是DC10.5v，送至电容器上充电电压會上升至5v左右，也就是變成15V!
〈12v电瓶標準电压是13.8v!〉
如果給它直流10.5v(15v)充电(电流相對的提高)，电瓶就好比电容器一樣!每次過压過流的結果，就是电瓶鼓漲失水沸騰(电容器爆炸)，最後極版斷裂容解(黑水)、电解物質結晶(白色)無法溶解，充電每況愈下，最後用不到2年報消!
My "Tesla" wall is planned to be contained between 2 old fridge doors :) Looks Tesla ish for sure.
clever idea .
What gauge is the wire?
bus bar is 6mm2 standard house 240v wire *australian
I've been watching your project with interest. 6 cells in series seems to be working good for me with the Nissan Leaf Batteries for a year now with no balancing problems but lots of paralleling. The less in series the better off you are. I don't think it's a good idea to go 48V with these. Also with the chemistry all mixed up and of unknown ages balancing is going to be a problem and you will need more expensive high amp balancers to keep up with it. Some advice for those who are thinking of doing this, but I like the project and you have a lot of power there to manage, it's like your own power company. Anything to piss off the power company is a good thing!
th-cam.com/video/uC12qdkExTE/w-d-xo.html
on the side
Can any one please tell me does fake Opus-BT-C3100 clones exist as I am ordering 2 from ebay. Cannot fine anyware comparison about fake Opus-BT-C3100 clones.
I want to buy it as I do
A bit too late to advise but if the green cable is the one you will not use you should have pulled on that one. It is never good to pull from a cable you are going to actually use.
Please MUTE the music mate.
It blows my mind to see different types of batteries. I mean, they look like different brands, specs and even chemistries. What gives? This scares the crap out of me.
WHY are you scared ?
Hey dude you doing ok
Baking in this heat, other than that great!
@@HBPowerwall I still haven't been able to get some laptop batteries hard to get around here
👍👍🙌
I agree hehe
put it on the front easy access
Why wouldn't you just use solid cable instead of stranded? Saves you from doing the drill thing..
This was SUPER cheap !
side mount
hey you it is nice job
watt the name off the music it is nice
it is in the description below or above, never mind it's in the description :)
Ever thought of using copper tubing for a cheaper, more conductive crimp end? If you trim the corners they even look pretty professional. m.th-cam.com/video/RpFb_Yxl_hA/w-d-xo.html
If I hadn't been donated 200+ terminals I would definitely go down this road
Music: gotta go.
Naw come on now...
Front
Ty
EEEERRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGG
OK OK OK ))))
OK!
@@HBPowerwall Ourait 👍👍👍
@@HBPowerwall Gyngl Bell
@@HBPowerwall SUPER 18650 OK 👍👍👍
I had to stop watching this 3/4 of the way through because the annoying music was louder than your voice.
He always puts this shitty music in. I stopped watching after 4 minutes, just could not endure it.
I love my music... don't be nasty to my music..
The music is too loud. Wold be better without it all together.
I love my music :( i'm sorry you didn't enjoy
Up front ,,please stop with the music
using that amount of small batteries connected in this way isn't very practical or, useful
Clearly I’ve already proved you very wrong :)
@Michael Phillips
- Did you do the math to calculate Watt-Hours = # of packs in series x Cell Voltage x # of Cells per pack x Avg Ah per cell ?
The awful music just ruins your video. What were you thinking?
I was thinking I loved the music...
A good video can do without shitty 'music'.
I guess it's how you define shitty 'music' can't stand the rubbish my mum plays 😂😜
@@HBPowerwall Taste runs in the family. :)