I have really enjoyed all of your videos. I have been fabricating for 40 years and you have given me new ideas for my shop. As far as your rolling gantry crane goes, I would tie the extensions together with maybe some thin wall chrome moly tubing to keep the weight down without sacrificing strength or rigidity. The thing looks plenty strong to me. As long as you stay within its strength parameters of it should work fine. If you bend it, that's part of the learning curve too. From what I've seen of voir work ethics, to me to be an excellent fabricator and welder. Not all of my welds look like a row of dimes either but I've never had one fail due to lack of penetration, or because I put too much heat into it either. I also weld almost exclusively with TIG.
I see most of the commenters have the same idea that you should cross brace the extension legs. It won't matter if you always use it strictly to pick and drop a load. If you ever try to move it under load lateral forces on any single leg could overcome the fasteners attaching the leg to the tubes and cause a collapse. The same thing may also happen if a load shifts while being picked or placed. It's water under the bridge now, but I would have opted to either disassemble the uprights and make them longer or as is the usual method, place a smaller telescoping tube inside of the uprights and gain some adjust ability.
HI Gary, Good to see you are getting more of your equipment into your new shop. It all takes time - sometimes more than we would like - but you can get everything positioned better without clutter you would have if you just moved everything at once. Looking good. Hope the rain slows down for you soon. Take Care, Reid
I like your idea of a leg between caster legs, will always hold together and no worry of leg spread down there with a very heavy lift. NICE JOB FOR SURE MIKE.
Nice use of the new chair. Surprised at how fast you can change clothes while also switching the polarity on the welder when trying to tack that roll of blue shop towels together.
+Shut Yer Face Garage lol, sir you will be the only one of 2000 people watching this that would have noticed that. I was editing and thought, let me show more about this and went back and did some "acting" to fill it in. I have done that many times
I know its late in the process and the ibeam may not be strong enough to be longer but if it could straddle the trailer or a dually pickup it would serve you forever. I built one with a friend years ago and we made the legs adjustable where your extensions are a fixed length. looks great and a gantry is a great addition to the shop.
yes u should brace that runs the length of it can be made so u can remove it along front and sides for support bolt on with angle iron 4 bolts on each min
I am having to design a gantry crane sir, why are bolts that important you think? they just prevent the body from slipping on the extension, don't they?
Gary I agree with Retro Weld Also when at your mag drill if you take that water bottle in the scene and drill a super small hole in the center of the cap use it for your oil/coolant applicator. Actually use a 20 oz pop bottle the plastic is thicker. That's what I use on my mill for putting coolant on when drilling it's a cheap container
+Milton Fludgecow It's a good point, you still have to remove the drill every few seconds to evacuate and break the chips. The drill came with an automatic oiler that lubes down the center of the chuck, but it dumps out way too much oil, leaked oil after you shut it off so i took it off the machine. I don't mind dabbing it in there with the brush. Thanks Milton!
I am not an engineer, but looking at the original framework, I would say that some sort of tie would be in order. With the kind of weight you are planning on lifting, then moving I would be concerned about those extensions twisting or breaking off. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." as the old saying goes.
LMAO at the sander shredding the belt. Watching that happen just reminded me of the stroke sander that I have. I bought the sander back in the late 60's to sand flat wood panels for my woodworking shop. The belt for the sander is 8" wide X 360" long or 36 feet of sanding belt. The sander was set up on the 40 ft sidewall of room it was in. Every now and then the belt would catch the corner of something that was being sanded and rip and inch or too off the edge of the belt and it would fly out very much like your sanding belt did. When the belt ripped it usually ripped about 30 foot of belt loose and it could reach out to almost anyplace in the room. Boy when that belt tore loose it was like a bull whip being snapped into the room so anyone in the room dived for cover behind something until the person that was using the sander could crawl along under the sanding table and reach the shut off switch. Believe me when I say that everyone had a lot of respect for that machine and paid close attention to it when it was in use. Another thing about that sander was that the friction that it generated from the sanding belt rubbing the wood surface being sanded caused a huge amount of static electricity and if it lost its ground to earth for any reason it would act like a huge capacitor and discharge a blue lightening bolt several inches long that would knock you off your feet. Everyone got into the idea that if you were going to be using that sander you filled a 5 gal bucket of water and took it outside and dumped the water onto the area where the earth grounding stake was pounded into the ground to make sure the grounding wire had a really good ground. If the soil where the grounding stake got dry the stake sometimes lost it grounding effect. Thanks for the memories Gary, Cheers OLDDUDE
you could also get a longer I-beam and swap A-legs if you ever need more width, your I-beam supports would do the same and you will have full movement of your trolley.
Do a Load test and measure the deflection, not only the center I-beam but most importantly the leg splaying. I would guess the thing is good for a 1/4 ton before the legs splay a tenth of an inch. a tenth of an inch is within the elastic limit of the steel, but because it may work harden with flex, don't plan to load it to the point of any significant flex.
Hi, maybe I'm wrong. But the vertical beam on your crane is the load bearing one and the Angled ones are mainly for stability it seems. An now pretty much all the weight on the Angled outriggers. Thanks for your videos. Greetings from a welding collage in Amsterdam
This design is good, a bottom link would help but not necessary. The flaw is extending it from bellow in the first place; It adds extra torque to the sq tube, but unavoidable since its already built. Well executed. I approve.
+DJ Inclined Yea it was the easiest way to extend it and allow the changes to be reversed if i needed it at a lower height. I agree most extend with the double column fit up. Thanks DJ
Well done. Should be plenty strong for what youre doing with it. No brakes on the casters? You could make yourself a spreader bar for rigging with the chain fall.
It looks a little gangly. The failure point will be where it joins the beam at the top. The lever force is strongest there. If I were going to suggest anything it would be to lengthen and beef up the diagonal bracing at that point. The failure point where the extensions meet the existing frame will be the fasteners. Connecting bars or another attachment point could help, but I doubt you need it...
+Greg's Garage Yea, I am going to fastenal today to get some Grade 8 bolts, I only had some grade 5 and only 25 of the, so those are temporary. It's interesting that you point out the failure point. That's what I thought as well, and that's why I added the thicker plate, 8 grade 8 bolts, and the gussets, where most of the cranes that are this size have no gusset there. Gangly? lol
Since you asked I think something between the extensions would be a good plan. Better safe then sorry when lifting heavy weight and would hate to see you get hurt.
An advantage of that design is that you could lift something and then slide a couple of pieces of C channel across the old bottom horizontal members. Then set the piece onto the channels and roll it as a cart rather than having the cargo swinging around as you move.
X bracing across the lower (new) portion could be just angle iron that pins on when you need to lift something really heavy. You won't always need the lower bracing.
looks solid to me, Greg has some great advice about the diagonal braces..and I keep hearing 'we', but it's only you lol..u must be talking about Mr. Smooth lol
+CountrySideClub Thanks CJ, and yea it's just me. When I say we, i guess i am referring to you guys, and anyone else that has helped me along the way, I hate listening to a video that sounds like "I did this, I i did that " :) Of course, don't leave out Mr. Smooth!
+ZIGgassedUP Thanks Zig, I copied a design that was rated to lift 1 ton, so that was sort of the plan, I am buying a bandsaw that weights 2500 lb, so that would be over the max, we will see how it works out!
Maybe it needs more support or maybe it doesn't. Could lead to more Mr. Smooth clips in the future! If wanted to make it more beefy, I would add an additional post in the centers where the main column comes down on each side. The angled bars from the top are for preventing the main vertical columns from bending over but most of the load goes down the center columns. Then tie all 6 extensions together close to the floor.
What's the lifting capacity? and how would I find out the material thickness of a beam on the top of the gantry crane (The blue section in your GC) if I wanted to lift 2 ton with a 3m span across the top?
Gary- what are the dimensions of your shop? Do you have any idea how much the pad and metal structure cost? I am looking into building something similar.....
+RetroWeld I have had the Beaumont KMG for a good while, over 1 year. Yea I love it, it's a badass machine. I just now got it moved down to the new shop. I upgraded to the 2HP 220v motor... just be careful it will attack you every once in a while! lol
The columns taking the weight are in the middle with nothing under them. I would create the lifting ability by 75 or so percent in this configuration. What you are missing is a truss underneath the lower horizontal tube. it should be shaped like two triangles pointed up so that each point hits the midspan, and a vertical 4 inch tube in the center, and of course the bottom bar that spans just above the casters. in other words, you would build a large rectangle with a column in the middle and a upside down V in each half. Hope that makes sense...
+Thomas Hutton Hmm... not sure Thomas, I can kind of see your point, but that bottom tube is never designed to have any trussing on it, most commercial models have taller casters than I am running and no triangulation. The lower tube is still the same just higher off the ground.
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra I have not seen commercial units with a light weight piece of steel across the bottom, they are triangulated with diagonal columns taking the weight directly out to the castors. The diagonals are load bearing, and in the form of a verticle truss section (a triangle). Build them how you want, I am just trying to let you know that the current design is weak at the base.
+Thomas Hutton Thomas, thanks... I know what you mean and I have seen those. When you say weak, what do you mean by that? If your saying it won't hold 5 tons, I agree with you. But I don't think it's weak there for what I am looking to do. Here is the one I sort of copied when I built mine. www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200349918_200349918?cm_mmc=Google-pla&Google_PLA&Material%20Handling%20%3E%20Hoists,%20Lifts%20%2B%20Cranes&Northern%20Industrial%20Tools&cm_mmc=Google-pla&PLA&mkwid=sALB1y381&pcrid=39129660716&devicetype=c&gclid=COjI473SvMwCFQetaQoddKoKbg
+265chevy Thanks Hanson, I got the X-legs for your table down to the new shop along with the extra aluminum, just need my milling machine up and running and can finish it, should be a cool metalwork monday video soon :)
+Bleu Wolf Thats why I drilled and tapped those 48 holes, so those extensions could unbolt and the casters bolt right to the A frames in case I need to get it to the edge of the shop. Bottom line is I just need to unload the truck and trailer and I can back those to the center of the shop. My truck sits up high, so you need a lot of head room with the crane. Thanks for watching!
+Defender Chassis ? I am not sure what you mean. I just listen to some random "mix" station on pandora. I wouldn't be able to pick out a Justin Beiber song if someone played it for me. My question is, how did you know it was Justin ? lol
I have really enjoyed all of your videos. I have been fabricating for 40 years and you have given me new ideas for my shop. As far as your rolling gantry crane goes, I would tie the extensions together with maybe some thin wall chrome moly tubing to keep the weight down without sacrificing strength or rigidity. The thing looks plenty strong to me. As long as you stay within its strength parameters of it should work fine. If you bend it, that's part of the learning curve too. From what I've seen of voir work ethics, to me to be an excellent fabricator and welder. Not all of my welds look like a row of dimes either but I've never had one fail due to lack of penetration, or because I put too much heat into it either. I also weld almost exclusively with TIG.
I see most of the commenters have the same idea that you should cross brace the extension legs. It won't matter if you always use it strictly to pick and drop a load. If you ever try to move it under load lateral forces on any single leg could overcome the fasteners attaching the leg to the tubes and cause a collapse. The same thing may also happen if a load shifts while being picked or placed.
It's water under the bridge now, but I would have opted to either disassemble the uprights and make them longer or as is the usual method, place a smaller telescoping tube inside of the uprights and gain some adjust ability.
HI Gary,
Good to see you are getting more of your equipment into your new shop. It all takes time - sometimes more than we would like - but you can get everything positioned better without clutter you would have if you just moved everything at once. Looking good. Hope the rain slows down for you soon.
Take Care,
Reid
+Reid Eichner Thanks Reid
I like your idea of a leg between caster legs, will always hold together and no worry of leg spread down there with a very heavy lift. NICE JOB FOR SURE MIKE.
Nice use of the new chair. Surprised at how fast you can change clothes while also switching the polarity on the welder when trying to tack that roll of blue shop towels together.
+Shut Yer Face Garage lol, sir you will be the only one of 2000 people watching this that would have noticed that. I was editing and thought, let me show more about this and went back and did some "acting" to fill it in. I have done that many times
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra yes. And I usually let it slide lol.
compliments excellent work and beautiful workshop
I know its late in the process and the ibeam may not be strong enough to be longer but if it could straddle the trailer or a dually pickup it would serve you forever. I built one with a friend years ago and we made the legs adjustable where your extensions are a fixed length. looks great and a gantry is a great addition to the shop.
Definitely a good thought
Sounds strong but I think I'd box it in at the bottom just to be safe. $50 in steel may save you a bunch if it were to fail.
+RetroWeld I think your right.
I agree I would box it in for strength and prevent them from spreading under weight. That sander belt spanking looked like it might of smarted a bit.
yes u should brace that runs the length of it can be made so u can remove it along front and sides for support bolt on with angle iron 4 bolts on each min
I like the idea of connecting the casters. I also hope you're using grade 8 bolts where you connected the extensions.
I am having to design a gantry crane sir, why are bolts that important you think? they just prevent the body from slipping on the extension, don't they?
Gary I agree with Retro Weld Also when at your mag drill if you take that water bottle in the scene and drill a super small hole in the center of the cap use it for your oil/coolant applicator. Actually use a 20 oz pop bottle the plastic is thicker. That's what I use on my mill for putting coolant on when drilling it's a cheap container
+Milton Fludgecow It's a good point, you still have to remove the drill every few seconds to evacuate and break the chips. The drill came with an automatic oiler that lubes down the center of the chuck, but it dumps out way too much oil, leaked oil after you shut it off so i took it off the machine. I don't mind dabbing it in there with the brush. Thanks Milton!
there's no wrong way just something that works well for me keep on making the great videos
+Milton Fludgecow Thanks Milton
I am not an engineer, but looking at the original framework, I would say that some sort of tie would be in order. With the kind of weight you are planning on lifting, then moving I would be concerned about those extensions twisting or breaking off.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." as the old saying goes.
+The Shade Tree Fix-it Man Yes sir, I agree with you
LMAO at the sander shredding the belt. Watching that happen just reminded me of the stroke sander that I have. I bought the sander back in the late 60's to sand flat wood panels for my woodworking shop. The belt for the sander is 8" wide X 360" long or 36 feet of sanding belt. The sander was set up on the 40 ft sidewall of room it was in. Every now and then the belt would catch the corner of something that was being sanded and rip and inch or too off the edge of the belt and it would fly out very much like your sanding belt did. When the belt ripped it usually ripped about 30 foot of belt loose and it could reach out to almost anyplace in the room. Boy when that belt tore loose it was like a bull whip being snapped into the room so anyone in the room dived for cover behind something until the person that was using the sander could crawl along under the sanding table and reach the shut off switch. Believe me when I say that everyone had a lot of respect for that machine and paid close attention to it when it was in use. Another thing about that sander was that the friction that it generated from the sanding belt rubbing the wood surface being sanded caused a huge amount of static electricity and if it lost its ground to earth for any reason it would act like a huge capacitor and discharge a blue lightening bolt several inches long that would knock you off your feet. Everyone got into the idea that if you were going to be using that sander you filled a 5 gal bucket of water and took it outside and dumped the water onto the area where the earth grounding stake was pounded into the ground to make sure the grounding wire had a really good ground. If the soil where the grounding stake got dry the stake sometimes lost it grounding effect. Thanks for the memories Gary, Cheers OLDDUDE
+Thisoldcar 360" long sanding belt! nice that must have had a long wear life to it. Hope it didn't attack you like mine did!
Great job! Keep up the good work! 🤙🏻
Really a good job . thanks for sharing the video
Mr. Smooth is ballin' today!
+eformance Yep he kicked my ass this Monday!
Another great video! Keep up the good work man
+d m Thanks sir, appreciate you watching!
brace from wheels up to the center of original cross brace
Really like the double duty drill press!
you could also get a longer I-beam and swap A-legs if you ever need more width, your I-beam supports would do the same and you will have full movement of your trolley.
Nice job Gary
Add me to the list of boxing it in... Glad to see the progress! Bet that belt sander hurt like heck.Hope you are well!Tom
+Tom Zelickman (Inspiration Metalworks) Thanks Tom, oh yea that belt sander kicked my butt!
Do a Load test and measure the deflection, not only the center I-beam but most importantly the leg splaying. I would guess the thing is good for a 1/4 ton before the legs splay a tenth of an inch. a tenth of an inch is within the elastic limit of the steel, but because it may work harden with flex, don't plan to load it to the point of any significant flex.
Man Gary, I'm glad you've got Mr Smooth in the shop to take the beatin' ! lol
+ceedell Yes, dang without him it would be rough on me!
Yes i know about breaking chips with the bottle it allows to get oil/coolant in the hole better.
+Milton Fludgecow Ahh ok, well it's a good tip, and I will check it out and see how it works.
Hi, maybe I'm wrong. But the vertical beam on your crane is the load bearing one and the Angled ones are mainly for stability it seems. An now pretty much all the weight on the Angled outriggers. Thanks for your videos. Greetings from a welding collage in Amsterdam
+Daan Meeuwig Thanks Daan, appreciate you watching and for the comment, I tend to agree with you.
This design is good, a bottom link would help but not necessary. The flaw is extending it from bellow in the first place; It adds extra torque to the sq tube, but unavoidable since its already built. Well executed. I approve.
+DJ Inclined Yea it was the easiest way to extend it and allow the changes to be reversed if i needed it at a lower height. I agree most extend with the double column fit up. Thanks DJ
Well done. Should be plenty strong for what youre doing with it. No brakes on the casters? You could make yourself a spreader bar for rigging with the chain fall.
If you over load it to the point where the legs fold you might want a lower brace but I think it's good as is.
+231flash Yea good point, probablly will add something to just to be safe, it's bad enough with Mr. Smooth around lol
It will make a heck of a swing;) looks good
I would be strongly motivated to put an X brace between the legs, I just don't trust bolts alone when it comes to moving heavy things,
It looks a little gangly. The failure point will be where it joins the beam at the top. The lever force is strongest there. If I were going to suggest anything it would be to lengthen and beef up the diagonal bracing at that point. The failure point where the extensions meet the existing frame will be the fasteners. Connecting bars or another attachment point could help, but I doubt you need it...
+Greg's Garage Yea, I am going to fastenal today to get some Grade 8 bolts, I only had some grade 5 and only 25 of the, so those are temporary. It's interesting that you point out the failure point. That's what I thought as well, and that's why I added the thicker plate, 8 grade 8 bolts, and the gussets, where most of the cranes that are this size have no gusset there. Gangly? lol
Since you asked I think something between the extensions would be a good plan. Better safe then sorry when lifting heavy weight and would hate to see you get hurt.
Wow,Mr Smooth sure took a beating on this one.
Glad you are OK. :-)
+cecil6711 Lol thanks Cecil!
An advantage of that design is that you could lift something and then slide a couple of pieces of C channel across the old bottom horizontal members. Then set the piece onto the channels and roll it as a cart rather than having the cargo swinging around as you move.
X bracing across the lower (new) portion could be just angle iron that pins on when you need to lift something really heavy. You won't always need the lower bracing.
+Kevin Hornbuckle Dang, that's a great thought, never even considered that, Thanks for that Kevin
looks solid to me, Greg has some great advice about the diagonal braces..and I keep hearing 'we', but it's only you lol..u must be talking about Mr. Smooth lol
+CountrySideClub Thanks CJ, and yea it's just me. When I say we, i guess i am referring to you guys, and anyone else that has helped me along the way, I hate listening to a video that sounds like "I did this, I i did that " :) Of course, don't leave out Mr. Smooth!
Looks like you'll need to build a bridge over the pond Kwai for your next project sir...What sort of weight are you expecting to lift Gary.?
+ZIGgassedUP Thanks Zig, I copied a design that was rated to lift 1 ton, so that was sort of the plan, I am buying a bandsaw that weights 2500 lb, so that would be over the max, we will see how it works out!
needs an X brace in the new section. That will be really handy in your shop with the extra height.
+cigarcaptain Agreed on both points, thanks!
i wanted 2 watch u use it to take the brake off the trailer...looks as if u have had overhead a/c put in?
+wildeyednorthernboy We just unloaded it today, no problems... It only weights 1300 lb, it's just very top heave and awkward.
Gussets would work fine on those extensions.
+Manuel Saldivar (Manny) Thanks Manny
Maybe it needs more support or maybe it doesn't. Could lead to more Mr. Smooth clips in the future! If wanted to make it more beefy, I would add an additional post in the centers where the main column comes down on each side. The angled bars from the top are for preventing the main vertical columns from bending over but most of the load goes down the center columns. Then tie all 6 extensions together close to the floor.
+Sam's Garage Thanks Sam, some good ideas for sure
no one else has probably seen this, but I would personally put some bracing between the wheels.
Becomes difficult to calculate the actual load capacity of the thing. Cross beams would definitely strengthen it.
What's the lifting capacity? and how would I find out the material thickness of a beam on the top of the gantry crane (The blue section in your GC) if I wanted to lift 2 ton with a 3m span across the top?
It's a 5" beam rated for 1 ton. Google search "Beam load calculators" and you will find what you need.
Gary- what are the dimensions of your shop? Do you have any idea how much the pad and metal structure cost? I am looking into building something similar.....
pretty cool
+pancho villa Thanks Pancho
Nice job. Is the Beaumont sander new? Are you happy with it? I'm thinking of buying one.
+RetroWeld I have had the Beaumont KMG for a good while, over 1 year. Yea I love it, it's a badass machine. I just now got it moved down to the new shop. I upgraded to the 2HP 220v motor... just be careful it will attack you every once in a while! lol
looks like you changed your grinding stance the second time around
+ryanbeall lol oh yea no doubt
Them sanding belts hurt when they slap you!
Nice Gantry, I was wondering how much weight you think that will lift and hold?
I copied the specs of the gantry cranes you can buy online and at northern tool that are rated at 3,000 lb. I have had 3500 on it with no problem
I need to learn how to build this tools like this.
+Carolina Man You can do it, piece of cake.
I would box the bottom by going with 2 90 degrees from center to bottom of the legs.. Then it would like like you designed it that way..
The columns taking the weight are in the middle with nothing under them. I would create the lifting ability by 75 or so percent in this configuration. What you are missing is a truss underneath the lower horizontal tube. it should be shaped like two triangles pointed up so that each point hits the midspan, and a vertical 4 inch tube in the center, and of course the bottom bar that spans just above the casters. in other words, you would build a large rectangle with a column in the middle and a upside down V in each half. Hope that makes sense...
I hate autocorrect. the first create should be de-rate....
+Thomas Hutton Hmm... not sure Thomas, I can kind of see your point, but that bottom tube is never designed to have any trussing on it, most commercial models have taller casters than I am running and no triangulation. The lower tube is still the same just higher off the ground.
+Thomas Hutton lol I hate autocorrect also!
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra I have not seen commercial units with a light weight piece of steel across the bottom, they are triangulated with diagonal columns taking the weight directly out to the castors. The diagonals are load bearing, and in the form of a verticle truss section (a triangle). Build them how you want, I am just trying to let you know that the current design is weak at the base.
+Thomas Hutton Thomas, thanks... I know what you mean and I have seen those. When you say weak, what do you mean by that? If your saying it won't hold 5 tons, I agree with you. But I don't think it's weak there for what I am looking to do. Here is the one I sort of copied when I built mine. www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200349918_200349918?cm_mmc=Google-pla&Google_PLA&Material%20Handling%20%3E%20Hoists,%20Lifts%20%2B%20Cranes&Northern%20Industrial%20Tools&cm_mmc=Google-pla&PLA&mkwid=sALB1y381&pcrid=39129660716&devicetype=c&gclid=COjI473SvMwCFQetaQoddKoKbg
Link the casters for sure😉
i do not know it very well, but in my opinion, maybe it is not safe
I would brace it more with the amount of weight you will be lifting would not want it to fail looking good though later
+265chevy Thanks Hanson, I got the X-legs for your table down to the new shop along with the extra aluminum, just need my milling machine up and running and can finish it, should be a cool metalwork monday video soon :)
um its to tall for the shop now it seems so you limit how much its used
+Bleu Wolf Thats why I drilled and tapped those 48 holes, so those extensions could unbolt and the casters bolt right to the A frames in case I need to get it to the edge of the shop. Bottom line is I just need to unload the truck and trailer and I can back those to the center of the shop. My truck sits up high, so you need a lot of head room with the crane. Thanks for watching!
you weld so fast lol
That belt slapping looked painful !
+Cruiser Mac Yes it was, had some bruises and abrasions on my face, arm, chest... it kicked my ass! lol
If it were mine I would box the bottom just for insurance.
I also need to build a gantry crane. You got your metal pretty far away from your shop.
+1970chevelle396 Yea, I would rather have it there, than in my way inside the shop. Take 2-3 min to get it into the shop for a new project.
need some wheels on that chair.
I love the vids,but if you don't mind taking the gunshots out they kinda shock me.
Just turn down the volume when he's using the chop saw....that's the only time he uses the shots.
+Rudderify thanks,I'll make sure to look out for it on future vids.👍
+Irene Salas Good point Irene. The gun shot is played out, I have used it over and over, time to let that one die lol
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra lol you still make entertaining videos,how's the bike? would love to see it!!!
this crane is good but you have a great shop a over riding crane is better and you have nothing down
What the hell was wrong with your welds Mike, sounds like a narcistic ballless man whinning cause someone else can weld good.
Really? Justin Beiber?
+Defender Chassis ? I am not sure what you mean. I just listen to some random "mix" station on pandora. I wouldn't be able to pick out a Justin Beiber song if someone played it for me. My question is, how did you know it was Justin ? lol
+🔥Ramsey Customs - turbocobra Well....uhm......my girlfriend likes that song........yeah, that's it!
Those are some shity looking welds
Some weren't great, some looked decent... but so far, haven't had any issues and i use it all the time.