real good video. But they also changed the oil filling to 180ml on this model. bmw got trouble with 220ml. sometimes the HAG's where soaked out of oil. so all HAG's get 180ml today. greetings from germany.
Thank you my friend for taking the time to make and post this video. I do most of my own work on my boxes but watching tutorial helped me to know what was coming. Thankfully mine had not a single drop of water inside but I was it dry so dry and the diff oil was black and what a stink. So thank you again my friend just want to let you know that there are people that appreciate your effort
Hi Terry, I know exactly what you mean. I did up a 2007GS for my friend Mike and when I drained the final drive oil it was so black and the smell was terrible. Even though BMW used to say 'don't change it' you must. It will run very sweet after your work...well done.
Hi again, I've changed the alternater belt and serviced the final drive using your videos to help me so thank you. The plastic strip and 6mm bolt worked perfectly, so easy. The final drive was in good nick no water had got passed the boot. So I cleaned, greased and changed the oil. I've saved the Russian guys video and will change the front boot later in the year. After lock down it's time to get out and ride!
Superb video and such a soothing voice! I've just bought a 2005 R1200GS with nearly 80,000 miles on it. It's running very well but the boot covering the rear spline is perished. I dread to think of the state of affairs when I go in there, but your video has been really helpful in explaining the stages involved. Thank you. You have a new subscriber. 🙂
Thank you Ian, so pleased it will help you. You may find it filled with water!! Also try and buy an original rubber boot. Every time I bought one from Motorworks, who are usually amazing, the boot never quite fitted as well as the BMW one which 'clicks' into place. I used to use the white crease the same as you use to lubricate the spine but silicone sealant the same as plumbers use stays fresher and does a great job. Have fun!
Hello Norman I did my final drive on the RT. The shaft was seized to the FD. Not impressed. Warranty was done In October and the bike has been sitting since. I did take photos and contacted BMW. The dealer said they would have to see the bike and figure out where the water came in. It was a pain to remove the shaft from the spline. But lots of SEAFOAM penetrant and very very gentle hammering with a drift (and no salty language) The transmission side was fine.However my u joint at the FD has some rusting. I used 3m silicone grease to seal things up. I will check again at next major service. Hopefully it’s all cured. Side note: rear pads were wearing down good. Ordered new ones, a silver lining I suppose.
Big thanks! I hear a strange noise coming from what I think is my rear wheel in speeds 80-110 km/h, and since it doesn't seem to be the bearings, I'm thinking it might be needed to do change the oil in there. It could just be the tires making this sound, but I need to rule things out These videos gives me confidence that I can fix these things without spending all my dough in the repair shop
Hi Gabriel, Noises from the back are so difficult to pinpoint. You are right, could be tyres etc etc but a good idea to Strat with changing the oil and having a good check of the Final Drive. It is not difficult and you will find great satisfaction in doing a good job. Well done you 😃
Good for you David. Most of the jobs I do on TH-cam is a first for me. Just take your time and follow the manual. You will get to know your bike so much next thing you will be off around the world 🤩
Thank you for a great tutorial. Refitting the reaction bar at 13:55 you mention the torque as 100Nm. Following this torque I managed to snap the bolt. Researching the failure other sources state 43Nm for 04-09. Should this be revised for the tutorial or was my bolt due? Edit: 43Nm was confirmed in earlier comments, hope to get this edited in the video as well!
Hi Duukkel, sorry for the delay, I have been looking through the manuals and online, but I think you are right 43nm😵💫😮. I cannot change the video on TH-cam but I can make a comment in the description. Sorry you broke a bolt and thank you for pointing it out😍
The torque setting you used for the paralever bolt is incorrect. You state 100Nm, 100 Nm is for the lower final drive pivot bolt. The rear paralever bolt that you remove to allow the drive to drop is torqued to 43 Nm
Hi Jez, well spotted, and you are absolutely 100% correct. Please watch the very next video Final Drive 2 where I apologies and say it is 43nm NOT 100nm. Funny I am just doing exactly the same job again today after putting in a replacement engine🤷♂️
Hi Daniel, I did the work while on the Big Blue Stand to save me bending down all the time but you do not have to. I have also serviced the final drive when the bike is just on the centre stand🤩
Hi Erol, Yes 220ml of final drive oil in this model but 180ml in some of the later models. But you have to check with the manuals like Haynes each time.
180ml should be the fill on the GS. As I understand the dry factory fill is 200 or 220. BMW had final drive failures on these non-vented drives and lowered to 180ml to reduce pressure. My Haynes manual is not correct.
I'm mildly paranoid about my FD after having a couple of my FD big bearings go on my 1150. I change the FD twice a year to keep an eye on it (my 1200 TC). But my comment now is just to say I think the only way to really seal around the gaiter is to use the BMW specified Staburags - It's not cheap, but it works. Really not sure about the silicone grease you mention? But I didn't see you also putting it onto t he other face of the gaiter, the FD side? I would also be a lot more liberal with it... Since I have done it this way, with the Staburags, it's always precisely as I left it inside the the UJ area, regardless of the rain I may have journeyed through.
Hi Rodin, thank you so much for your comments. I must check to see if we can get Staburags in the UK. I have just this minute had confirmation that an offer I made on a 1150GS, which is a bike I have always wanted🤗
@@normski3091 I really should have also said it's a good video!! Apologies. Yes, Staburags is available in the UK, in fact I recommend going to BMW for it, actually cheaper than a lot of eBay offerings! It's usually a 50g tube (or a v expensive 500g tub). 50g goes a long way, even with me using it liberally 👍🏻. Keep up the great videos 😊
ps. The 1150 is the handsome twin of the slightly earlier 1100. Never thought I'd 'bind' with the 1200, but I really have. The right is more manageable. Enjoy the 1150! Did you get a GS or RT?
Hi Samian, No I don't think it will be damaged at all. Remember BMW used to say that after the initial first service it never needed changing again. However I completely serviced a friends 2006 GS and changed the final drive oil. The smell of the oil was terrible, so certainly worth changing it and you can do it yourself. Have a go Samian. very best, Norman
That is a great idea......you will see me do that when I rebuild the whole bike. it is then that I realise you can lever the drive shaft off, regrease the spline and tap it back in with a mallet!
Hi i'm enjoying your videos on the 2005 GS. i have the same bike, i have ordered a alternator belt from motorworks and will do a service when it gets here. i have noticed the rubber boot at the front of the drive shaft/swinging arm is cracked and needs replacing do you have any advice or better still video on that boot ? cheers
Hi Timberob, great to hear from you and so pleased that my TH-cam videos are helping you a little. Don’t forget to buy a 6mm tap and wrench before you start your alternator belt replacement.....oh and a few 6mm bolts🤗. Oh yes the front boot, that is a little different. I have changed it before before my GoPro days. Let me have another look and see if I can help?
real good video. But they also changed the oil filling to 180ml on this model. bmw got trouble with 220ml. sometimes the HAG's where soaked out of oil. so all HAG's get 180ml today. greetings from germany.
Thank you my friend for taking the time to make and post this video. I do most of my own work on my boxes but watching tutorial helped me to know what was coming. Thankfully mine had not a single drop of water inside but I was it dry so dry and the diff oil was black and what a stink. So thank you again my friend just want to let you know that there are people that appreciate your effort
Hi Terry, I know exactly what you mean. I did up a 2007GS for my friend Mike and when I drained the final drive oil it was so black and the smell was terrible. Even though BMW used to say 'don't change it' you must. It will run very sweet after your work...well done.
Hi again, I've changed the alternater belt and serviced the final drive using your videos to help me so thank you. The plastic strip and 6mm bolt worked perfectly, so easy.
The final drive was in good nick no water had got passed the boot. So I cleaned, greased and changed the oil. I've saved the Russian guys video and will change the front boot later in the year. After lock down it's time to get out and ride!
MrTimberob brilliant news, so pleased it went well 🤗
Superb video and such a soothing voice! I've just bought a 2005 R1200GS with nearly 80,000 miles on it. It's running very well but the boot covering the rear spline is perished. I dread to think of the state of affairs when I go in there, but your video has been really helpful in explaining the stages involved. Thank you. You have a new subscriber. 🙂
Thank you Ian, so pleased it will help you. You may find it filled with water!! Also try and buy an original rubber boot. Every time I bought one from Motorworks, who are usually amazing, the boot never quite fitted as well as the BMW one which 'clicks' into place. I used to use the white crease the same as you use to lubricate the spine but silicone sealant the same as plumbers use stays fresher and does a great job. Have fun!
Hello Norman
I did my final drive on the RT. The shaft was seized to the FD. Not impressed. Warranty was done In October and the bike has been sitting since. I did take photos and contacted BMW. The dealer said they would have to see the bike and figure out where the water came in. It was a pain to remove the shaft from the spline. But lots of SEAFOAM penetrant and very very gentle hammering with a drift (and no salty language) The transmission side was fine.However my u joint at the FD has some rusting. I used 3m silicone grease to seal things up. I will check again at next major service. Hopefully it’s all cured. Side note: rear pads were wearing down good. Ordered new ones, a silver lining I suppose.
Big thanks! I hear a strange noise coming from what I think is my rear wheel in speeds 80-110 km/h, and since it doesn't seem to be the bearings, I'm thinking it might be needed to do change the oil in there.
It could just be the tires making this sound, but I need to rule things out
These videos gives me confidence that I can fix these things without spending all my dough in the repair shop
Hi Gabriel, Noises from the back are so difficult to pinpoint. You are right, could be tyres etc etc but a good idea to Strat with changing the oil and having a good check of the Final Drive. It is not difficult and you will find great satisfaction in doing a good job. Well done you 😃
Grazie Normski!!!! Il tuo tutorial e' ottimo!!! Grazie grazie!!!
Thank you Normski, an excellent guide that has given me the confidence as a relative novice to attack jobs such as this.
Good for you David. Most of the jobs I do on TH-cam is a first for me. Just take your time and follow the manual. You will get to know your bike so much next thing you will be off around the world 🤩
Another excellent guide, Another job I will confidently do myself now. Thank you
Very nice videos!!! for no water in side, Staburags NBU 30 PTM !!
I will see if that is available in the UK, thank you so much Seb
Great step by step tutorial. Excellent!
Thank you for a great tutorial. Refitting the reaction bar at 13:55 you mention the torque as 100Nm.
Following this torque I managed to snap the bolt. Researching the failure other sources state 43Nm for 04-09.
Should this be revised for the tutorial or was my bolt due?
Edit: 43Nm was confirmed in earlier comments, hope to get this edited in the video as well!
Hi Duukkel, sorry for the delay, I have been looking through the manuals and online, but I think you are right 43nm😵💫😮. I cannot change the video on TH-cam but I can make a comment in the description. Sorry you broke a bolt and thank you for pointing it out😍
The torque setting you used for the paralever bolt is incorrect. You state 100Nm, 100 Nm is for the lower final drive pivot bolt. The rear paralever bolt that you remove to allow the drive to drop is torqued to 43 Nm
Hi Jez, well spotted, and you are absolutely 100% correct. Please watch the very next video Final Drive 2 where I apologies and say it is 43nm NOT 100nm. Funny I am just doing exactly the same job again today after putting in a replacement engine🤷♂️
New to your videos... Great viewing
Thank you Anth 🤗
Very well explained
It's interesting that very few people service the other end of the drive shaft.
Hi Paul, very true, just going to start filming that in my garage.....keep watching😳
Its makes no sense not to, especially when you are that deep in the bike...
Did/can you do this work whilst the bike is on the center stand?
Hi Daniel, I did the work while on the Big Blue Stand to save me bending down all the time but you do not have to. I have also serviced the final drive when the bike is just on the centre stand🤩
Why would you NOT go ahead and lube the front splines of the driveshaft if you are that deep in the bike?
Hi Al, Well that is a good idea!
Hi, Isn't the final drive oil 220 cl more? They fill 180 cl
Hi Erol, Yes 220ml of final drive oil in this model but 180ml in some of the later models. But you have to check with the manuals like Haynes each time.
180ml should be the fill on the GS. As I understand the dry factory fill is 200 or 220. BMW had final drive failures on these non-vented drives and lowered to 180ml to reduce pressure. My Haynes manual is not correct.
Yep you are absolutely correct 👍
I'm mildly paranoid about my FD after having a couple of my FD big bearings go on my 1150. I change the FD twice a year to keep an eye on it (my 1200 TC). But my comment now is just to say I think the only way to really seal around the gaiter is to use the BMW specified Staburags - It's not cheap, but it works. Really not sure about the silicone grease you mention? But I didn't see you also putting it onto t he other face of the gaiter, the FD side? I would also be a lot more liberal with it... Since I have done it this way, with the Staburags, it's always precisely as I left it inside the the UJ area, regardless of the rain I may have journeyed through.
Hi Rodin, thank you so much for your comments. I must check to see if we can get Staburags in the UK. I have just this minute had confirmation that an offer I made on a 1150GS, which is a bike I have always wanted🤗
@@normski3091 I really should have also said it's a good video!! Apologies. Yes, Staburags is available in the UK, in fact I recommend going to BMW for it, actually cheaper than a lot of eBay offerings! It's usually a 50g tube (or a v expensive 500g tub). 50g goes a long way, even with me using it liberally 👍🏻. Keep up the great videos 😊
ps. The 1150 is the handsome twin of the slightly earlier 1100. Never thought I'd 'bind' with the 1200, but I really have. The right is more manageable. Enjoy the 1150! Did you get a GS or RT?
It is the GS. Winter project but nothing big, like changing the engine. I still have my 1200RT
You are a saint!
Ha ha ….I wish 🤣
Hello I have gs 1200 2007 with 29000km and never changed the final drive oil you think it may be damaged?
Hi Samian, No I don't think it will be damaged at all. Remember BMW used to say that after the initial first service it never needed changing again. However I completely serviced a friends 2006 GS and changed the final drive oil. The smell of the oil was terrible, so certainly worth changing it and you can do it yourself. Have a go Samian. very best, Norman
@@normski3091 thanks!!!
hello sir where can i find that Pyramids silver plate that u got on top of the final drive
Hi Francisco, I am sorry I do not know. It was on the bike when we bought it about 4-5 years ago.
@@normski3091 ahh man, would you be interested in selling it?
Morning Francisco, I sold the GS last year….you will find my TH-cam video Bye Bye GS…..many tears 😭
Why not do the front splines of the driveshaft while you’re there?
That is a great idea......you will see me do that when I rebuild the whole bike. it is then that I realise you can lever the drive shaft off, regrease the spline and tap it back in with a mallet!
bekomme den Endantrieb ,wie sie das machen nicht auf die Welle
Hi i'm enjoying your videos on the 2005 GS. i have the same bike, i have ordered a alternator belt from motorworks and will do a service when it gets here. i have noticed the rubber boot at the front of the drive shaft/swinging arm is cracked and needs replacing do you have any advice or better still video on that boot ? cheers
Hi Timberob, great to hear from you and so pleased that my TH-cam videos are helping you a little. Don’t forget to buy a 6mm tap and wrench before you start your alternator belt replacement.....oh and a few 6mm bolts🤗. Oh yes the front boot, that is a little different. I have changed it before before my GoPro days. Let me have another look and see if I can help?
Hi Timberob, have a look at this Russian guy taking off the whole arm, really good! th-cam.com/video/BsS8y6YlbkM/w-d-xo.html
Hello Normsky, can you tell me , what model of elevator stand and if it can with the r1200 GSA? thank you!
David Quiñones Hi David, thank you for your comment. This is my TH-cam video on the bike lift: th-cam.com/video/D9MqCaIS-8g/w-d-xo.html
David Quiñones Forgot to say it will work with the GSA 🤗
@@normski3091 Thanks, I already saw your video,it´s excellent.
So this is how BMW turned their final drive into a service item.
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🔝🔝🔝🔝🔝
Thank you Fazedor 🤗
Это ужас