Final Drive Oil Change/Spline Lube BMW R1200GS/1250GS : DETAILED Step-by-Step Instructions
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มิ.ย. 2024
- *UPDATE August 17, 2022* BMW issues service bulletin to check for rust on splines. About time!! Read more here: www.advrider.com/bmw-issues-s...
*CORRECTION* - The final drive oil fill bolt has a hex H6 head, NOT a Torx T40 as shown in the video. My apologies!
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This video covers a detailed step-by-step instruction on how to change the final drive gear oil and also lubricate the splines between the drive shaft and the final drive on a 2016 BMW R1200GS Adventure. This video also shows how to reconnect the final drive to the drive shaft, which is a little tricky to do, but with a little patience and finesse this is definitely possible for us DYI'ers. There are a lot of good videos out there on how to do this job, but I didn't find any that went into the detail I was looking for, especially on getting that final drive mated to the drive shaft.
Parts and supplies needed for this job:
- 180ML gear oil (SAE 75W90) (BMW PN 07512296486)
- O-RING FINAL DRIVE DRAIN PLUG 2005-
2020 (BMW PN 33117695219)
- GASKET RING FINAL DRIVE FILL, COPPER (BMW PN 07119963132)
- Paralever Fillister-head screw (BMW PN 33 35 8533524). I read that it's recommended to change this bolt each time, but I have re-used mine.
- Spline grease, moly-based. Castrol Molub Alloy TA, or equivalent. I use Staburags grease because I have it on-hand
* Castrol Molub Alloy TA Part#000-043-305-08-OEM
* STABURAGS NBU 30 PTM SPLINE LUBRICANT
- Kluber Isoflex Topas NB 52, or equivalent. This helps seal the rubber boot to swing arm
* Kluber Isoflex Topas NB 52 (50g) 004131-221
- Small applicator brush for applying grease to splines
- Blue Loctite - for brake caliper bolts
- Red Loctite 243 (not Red Permanent, video is wrong) - for M10 bolt connecting final drive to paralever and spray guard bolts
- Wire brush for cleaning bolts
Tools needed:
- Socket wrench
- Torque wrench
- Screwdriver (I used this to assist with reconnecting final drive to drive shaft)
- Wire brush
- Lift jack or something else to support final drive (optional - you can use your arms)
- H6 hex bit for final drive oil fill bolt
- TORX bits: T30, T40, T45 and T50
Torque Values
All torque settings in video are taken from the 2016 Clymer manual and additional resources found online. One resource was found here: motorcycleinfo.co.uk/wp-conte...
Video markers:
0:00 Introduction
0:30 Tools needed
0:38 Parts/supplies needed
1:12 Removing spray guard
1:25 Remove final drive fill bolt
1:51 Remove final drive drain bolt
2:30 Replace o-ring on drain bolt
3:12 Torque setting for drain bolt
3:29 Remove rear wheel
3:45 Remove ABS speed sensor
4:35 Remove brake caliper
5:33 Remove bolt connecting paralever to final drive
6:00 Lower final drive and pull back rubber boot
6:42 Grease the splines
8:48 Reconnect final drive to drive shaft
10:57 Connect bolt for paralever to final drive
11:39 Torque setting, bolt for paraveler to final drive
11:54 Re-install brake caliper
12:20 Torque setting for brake caliper bolts
12:31 Re-install ABS sensor and torque setting for bolt
12:57 Attach rear wheel and torque settings for bolts
13:19 Add gear oil to final drive
14:02 Torque setting for final drive fill bolt
14:12 Re-install spray guard and torque setting for bolts
14:28 Outro and please subscribe!
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#r1200gsfinaldrive #r1200splinelube #r1250finaldriveoilchange - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![BMW R1200GS [2010] REAR END GEAR SPLINE LUBE. SOO VERY EASY The Old Mechanic his own R1200GS 👨🔧---🏍](/img/n.gif)
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Your videos are my go-to when doing any maintenance on my GSA. Recent service issues with my multi-branded BMW dealer have forced me to even do my own valve clearance checks. While no stranger to doing my own maintenance, some things are just more intimidating. Your highly detailed video on that has given me the knowledge and confidence to this service myself. And save lots of money 😊. Thank you for all that you do here in helping the rest of us be better technicians.
@Chris D - Hey thanks for the comment and for watching my videos. I'm glad to hear they are helping others out, that's exactly why I made them. I have a few more on my list to do, but if you have any other suggestions please pass them along. Thanks again and happy wrenching!
Probably the best instructional video on any bike that I have ever seen. Well explained and pitfall warnings. Excellent, thank you
@Japie Duminy - Thanks for the comment, it is appreciated!
I am a nooby looking to get my own '23 1250GSA - your videos are life savers. Crystal clear video and explanations! Thank you!
@Anil Mankame - thanks for the comment and for watching. Glad to hear these videos are helpful! Cheers!
Very well explained and the steps are shown accurately. You left the bit in the video where it was clear getting the spline/driveshaft back together was a struggle. You could have edited that part out, but leaving it in makes this more realistic. I suspect that step will be the most challenging part of doing this. I also appreciate the suggested lubricants and jack tip to hold the drive in place. Very helpful video indeed, thank you!
@alanwood1036 - Thank you very much for watching and commenting. Yes, the difficult parts are ones you need to know about and what you're getting yourself into. Rejoining the drive shaft with final drive is the most difficult part here, just be patient and never force it! Thanks again and happy wrenching!
These Videos are the best there is. They really help my confidence in doing this myself. It will sure save me a lot of Money instead of having the Dealership doing it. I really appreciate it. Your Camera Angles, Torque Settings, everything is Perfect, I can’t Thank You enough. Ride Safe and Thanks again.👍❤️🇺🇦
@joeybobbie1 - Thanks again for the comment and for watching, it is appreciated! Ride safe!🏍🛣☮
Really well done video. I appreciate the detailed time indicators in the description, too. Very helpful.
@BradB - Thanks for the comment and glad you found all of the info in the description area. Ride safe!
Very well explained and clear camera positions!
@Gijs Borsboom - Thanks for the comment, hope it helped!
I wish all videos were this well done. Thank you for this. Keep the great work.
@JC Rides - Thanks for watching the video and for the comment, much appreciated!
Fantastic stuff, thanks for sharing such a detailed video.
DervMan - glad you liked the video and thanks for the comment!
Excellent Video!! Good camera angles, nice clear voiceover!! And included tool list & torque setting is a bonus!!
@James Brown - thanks a bunch for the comment and for watching! It is appreciated! Cheers.
Wow ... that video is awesome ... keep it going dude! Great work!
@GS Dude - Thanks for watching and for the comment, it is appreciated!😁
Terrific writeup and video! Thanks for putting it together.
@Grain and Shadow - Thanks for the comment!
Love your passion Chomiczewski!!
@fred lee - Thanks Mr. Lee, learned it from you!
super easy to follow- thank you for making this
@ E S - Glad to hear, thanks for the comment and watching! Cheers!
Nicely done, very informative, the torque settings a bonus, thanks for sharing so well worth a sub. 😃👍
@Cliff Davies - Thanks for the comment and for the sub, it is appreciated!
Your videos are excellent! Even though that I have performed many of these procedures several times, I use your videos as a refresher. Thanks!
@R S - Thanks for watching and for the comment, it is much appreciated!
Best video I’ve seen so far. Really good camera work and lighting!
@rjeepster8640 - Thank you very much for watching and for the comment, it is appreciated!
Gidday from Australia.
Fantastic. So clear and consise. I don't even have a bmw ( yet ) and am enjoying your videos immensely. Cheers Mate. 👍
@Brainspace - Thanks for your comment! For some reason it just popped up now. Hope all is good in Australia, have a dream to ride there some day! Cheers!
Phenomenal videos! Keep them coming
Thanks for the comment Tony! Let me know if you have any ideas for future videos you’d like to see. Cheers!
Don’t have GS yet but subscribed, nice content
@konstantinusstoyanov9749 - Hey thanks for watching and for the subscription, it is appreciated! Enjoy shopping your GS!
Awesome very well nicely explained. Thanks for sharing it.
@Dual Sport Rider - thanks for the comment, much appreciated!
That was superb, very helpful. Thanks alot.
@billy4rocks - Hey, thanks for the comment and for watching!
Just to say thank you. Worked through your video step-by-step save for having to detour around a seized drive shaft. Much appreciated.
@B M - Excellent to hear the video helped! Don’t forget BMW issued a service bulletin where they will drill a hole to release any water build up. Most bikes will be covered at no charge.
schitterende videos, goede kwaliteit, erg behulpzaam en laat me zien hoe ik het zelf kan doen, heel erg bedankt !
@Andre H - Graag gedaan! blij te horen dat ze behulpzaam zijn. proost!
Subscribed just now. very nice video. thanks for sharing
@CHRISTOPHER K - Sorry for the delay in responding. Traveling at the moment in Thailand. Thanks for watching the video and for subscribing, it is appreciated! Ride safe and happy wrenching!
Excellent and hugebthanks for adding torque settings in both measurements 👍👍👍 new subscriber!
@P B - Thank you for watching and for the comment! I do what I can when I can. And thank you very much for subscribing, looking to release a couple more R1200 GS videos here in the next week or so. In editing stage now. Cheers!
@@zooskifilms My pleasure, appreciate the time you put in. Saves thousands of $$$ from going to the dealerships!
Great video first time I did this everything went as planned with help from your video.Thank you
@4484paul - Thanks for watching and for the comment. Glad to hear it went well! I'm curious, were the splines rusty?
@@zooskifilms no rust 18000 miles, funny thing I changed tire for first time also and had a hard time getting tire on the rim but when I put the drive shaft back together it went so easy I thought I may have did something wrong.Again thanks for the video, looking to do the valve adjustment also
Video molto completato e professionale, complimenti!
@Laurian Zaharia - Thank you very much! Grazie!
Thanks so much. Just finished mine (2018 model). About an hour and a half taking my time to make sure everything was just so. After watching you, I was able to get the shaft into the final drive in one try! Just slid right in. I had some silicone grease that I used around the edge of the boot, just to make sure it didn't swell up from the wrong kind of petroleum based grease. Very clear presentation and the camera angles were perfect! Thanks again!!
@ranty13 - Excellent to hear! And in one shot, I can only be so lucky. Glad the video helped. Lots of other good videos out there on the subject, but sometimes a few missing steps or unanswered questions. Anyway, appreciate the comment!
Superb....video on a true instructional level, torque values, etc. I am fan of Mobil 1 75W-90, it is a GL-5 standard.
@Ikazanov - Thank you for the comment. I’m going to start trying out non OEM oils for maintenance. Thanks again!
Super easy with great instructions. Done in a couple of hours taking my time and by being interrupted by my son
@Patrick Perry - Haha, pretty funny, I remember those days! Thanks for the comment!
Great video - good attention to detail and thks a lot for including all the torque settings! Greetings from Zimbabwe!
@Mike Hitschmann - Thank you for the kind words and glad to hear the video helped! All the best to you, your family and Zimbabwe. Hope to visit there some day! Look me up next time you're in the States!
@@zooskifilms haven't been to the USA yet but keen to visit one day! Shout if you ever come to this part of the world! Keep well.
@@mikehitschmann8655 - will do. Cheers!
Brilliant video and very helpful
@Lewes Preece - Thanks for the comment and and for watching! Ride safe!
New subscribe here, thanks for sharing,I like how organized and theral it was.
@mojah1 - Thanks for the sub and comment, it is appreciated! I am just finishing up one on a detailed step by step valve clearance and shim check, coming out in a few days. That took a while, need to go through it slowly so I didn't screw anything up.
Great video, thank you for this.
@TheHajducko - Hey thanks for the nice comment and for watching, it is appreciated! 👍
Thank you for helping me service my bike
@Joshua Thamin - You bet, glad to hear these videos are helpful! Happy wrenching and ride safe! Cheers!
Your videos are so comprehensive that I would like to see a detailed inner seal replacement on an R1250 GS, final drive.
@Patrick Cashmore - Thanks for the comment and for watching! Can you clarify which inner seal? On the final drive itself? Or servicing of the other end of the drive shaft, where it connects to the transmission? Thanks!
Im eating my pizza and watch this superb video, so i must check it on mine gsa. Thanks friend.
Thanks for your comment! Glad to hear my videos go well with pizza. Cheers!
쉽게 설명된 영상 감사합니다 더 많은 유지보수에 대한 영상 부탁드립니다.
@구발컨 - 댓글과 시청해주셔서 감사합니다. 2022년 영상 리스트 작업 중입니다! 곧 출시될 신제품을 찾아보세요!
Great video mate 👍from down under
@garry baker - Thank you for the comment! My apologies for the delay in responding, caught that nasty bug floating around. Cheers!
Just commented on your radiator flush video, but as I just bought a used 2016 r1200gs I am going through your whole channel and you my friend are a phenomenal help! Torque specs, exact parts, perfect camera angles! I like how you showed us how long it took to match the splines back together too!
Great work my friend!
@GV Motoring - Hey, thanks for checking out the rest of my R1200GS videos, glad to hear they are helpful. And congrats on your R1200GS acquisition. Nothing like a boxer engine! Have fun and ride safe! 🏍👍✌
@@zooskifilms Hey! Re-visiting this video as I'm due for another shaft maintenance. My question this time around is: are you replacing the Paralever Fillister-head screw every time you service the shaft? I feel like its wasteful to throw away a $10 screw each time.
I was thinking of just cleaning the old screw and adding my own locktite to it, whats your view on that?
Thanks again, your videos continue to be super helpful!
@@GVMotoring - Yeah totally understand your thought process here. Those bolts are stretch bolts so they are intended to be a replacement item. If I was in a jam and didn’t have a new one available I wouldn’t hesitate using it until I could get a replacement. So just be aware of the risk and make your own judgement. In my personal view if you are riding off-road you definitely want to replace it. Once you torque that bolt a second or third time it inches towards snapping off.
@@zooskifilms Great insights there! I guess the piece of mind is worth the $10!
@@GVMotoring -Yes exactly. Especially if that bolt was designed that way. You don’t want $10 turning into $1000 or worse. Cheers!
Brilliant video 👍
@Ray Dunne - Thanks for the comment, and for watching!
Thank you. I use Castrol molybdenum grease on the splines, and Yamaha outboard marine grease on the rubber gators...works a treat 👍🇿🇦
@Richard Ho - Thank you for sharing! I'll check out that marine grease for the gators! Cheers!
Nice video mate, another good idea is to have a ratchet strap from front tire tight to the centre stand to ensure the bike can’t fall down during this process
@Biggie - Thanks for the comment! That’s an excellent recommendation. Would be disastrous if the bike came off the center stand ! Cheers!
Brilliant video thanks v much! Have just completed the valve clearance checks on my new GS with ease using your previous video, next up is final drive service which I'm confident I can tackle thanks to this excellent DIY guide 👍
@Jez Winters - Thanks for the comment and for watching. Please do let me know if you find rust on the splines, seems not everyone is seeing that. Thanks again!
@@zooskifilms no mine were very clean no rust. My GS has only 13k miles on the clock and it looks like the maintenance has already been done on the drive shaft as the oil looked very clean. At least I've got peace of mind I know it's in good order now I've checked it myself!
@@jezwinters1574 - Ok thanks. Interesting to hear. What climate do you live in? I’m trying to figure out why some folks see rust and others don’t. I had about 5,000 miles on mine when I found rust there. Not a lot but enough to be concerned.
Excellent, thank you very much
@billwaterhouse5894 - You bet, thanks for watching and commenting! 👍
Thanks excellent video. When I dropped the final drive the shaft slipped off the front splines which then allowed me to re-grease those as well. It was quite simple, the hardest part was getting the zip tie back on. My bike is a 2018 Rallye with 40K Km and there was no corrosion. I have not been in deep water however.
@Stew Taylor - Thanks for the feedback. Yes, some people experienced the shaft coming off the transmission side when dropping the final drive. Mine didn't do that, but wish it did so I could have checked that end. Anyway, there is a service bulletin from BMW to check for rust and add a drain port in case water does collect in that area. I would definitely have BMW check it out for you, it's covered under a recall. Cheers!
Just a couple comments. One the sensor that is removed from the final drive is not a ABS sensor, but, the speedometer sensor. Also when getting the drive shaft splines to line up, instead of rotating the drive shaft to get the splines lined up, I get the leading edege of the shaft into the final drive, I find it much more easy to turn the brake rotor while holding the final drive, until the splines line up.
Other than the two things I mentioned, Great video!!!
@Scott Abbe - Yes, you are correct on the speed sensor, thanks for the comments! Great comment and insight on getting the drive shaft back on the final drive. Thanks again for sharing!
Well done. Very useful.
@Adrian Bugg - Thank you for the comment and for watching!
The best video
@김치헌 - Thank you! To the best viewer! Cheers🍺
😀 Very well done! Greetings from Germany, Bernd
@motocomfort de - Thank you for the comment and for watching! I enjoy your channel as well. We should collaborate one day. Cheers!
@@zooskifilms That's a good idea. I'm glad you enjoyed my videos. There are still many topics around the BMW water-cooled boxer motorcycles. Cheers!
Great video. thank you..
@Dariusz Kaliszewski - thanks for the comment, appreciate it. Got lots more on the list, feel free to make suggestions for videos you’d like to see. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing
@John Valerie Welbers - You bet, hope it was helpful!
First time here, but excellent video! One of the best instructional videos on this subject I've seen. Thanks for this. My only little quibble would be that I would have used a non-petroleum based compound on the boot to shaft drive housing interface. Something like a PTFE or high grade silicone based grease. The petroleum/solvent based greases tend to degrade rubber.
@Michael Skinner - Thanks for the comment and for watching. Most of the questions and comments I get on this video are related to the lubricants i used for the boot and for the splines. Many people felt I should have reversed the two. Anyway, the research I did on the Kluber Isoflex was that it was a synthetic hydrocarbon based grease with barium soap. Silicone rubbers are compatible with this type of grease, natural rubbers not so much. From what I found that rubber boot was silicone based. I haven’t seen any deterioration to date. The barium soap is also highly resistant to water. Anyway, I could be wrong, and to be safe you’re recommendation might make more sense and more affordable. Thanks again!
@@zooskifilms Very interesting info. Thanks for the research and reply!
@@michaelskinner896 - You bet!
Great Support Videos. Have you considered doing a Front Fork Oil Change video for the BMW 1200's?
Or do know of one that's reputable? Please let know Thank you
@Brian-my6yj - Thanks for the comment. I can definitely add a front fork oil change video to the list, thanks for the request. I haven't looked for this video before but I found this one, looks like it it will help: th-cam.com/video/WCHu9sfTgdw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hcHocYlQ3bsyykIi
One of the best explained in every detail close up camera nothing left out this video could not have been done better. zooskifilms 100 per cent THANK you.
@fon129 - Thank you very much for the comment. Glad to hear the video was helpful. Happy wrenching!
Excellent
@rhgjr41 - Thanks for watching and commenting, it is appreciated. Ride safe!
Are you planning a video showing how to change the final drive bearings? It’s easy on a bike with chain and sprocket just wondering how different it is on the GS
@Geoffrey Ritcher - Thanks for the comment and request for video. I added this to the list, I need to investigate the process to change them out. Looks like a doozy! Thanks again!
Like the sound
@Dale Vincent - Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Nice video thanks. How come in some other videos they lube and clean the front part of the shaft too? Or they take the whole shaft out. Do we have to do that?
@Peter F - Good question. In my research it seemed that most people found rust on the final drive shaft side of the drive shaft, not on the transmission side. But in retrospect I should have checked both side to be more thorough. Personally I don't expect to see any rust on the other side, but if you want to be through you can check both sides. To me there is high probability of water seeping into the final drive side especially if you drive through water or in the rain. Hope this helps!
All your GS videos are great, thanks for the effort. My final drive is stuck to the drive shaft, been like that since I bought the bike, any ideas how to free? I'm guessing I will have to remove drive shaft from gearbox end then see if I can lever then apart.
@Phillip Griffin- Yeah, that's the only way I see getting them apart. I was going to suggest putting some heat to it, but you'll still need some leverage to pull apart after heating. Interestingly enough most people (via a TH-cam poll) don't seem to see any rust here, or have never inspected it. Good luck to you sir!
FYI - I did the spline lube without draining the final drive (dealer had just done 24K service). I had made a plug for speed sensor hole but forgot to put it in. No fluid leaked out during spline lube. Worried there wasn't enough fluid, I drained & measured. 180ml as required. Just thought you might like to know you can do spline lube with final drive full.
@James Bowen - Interesting! The first time I did this service I drop the final drive before draining and fluid spilled everywhere through that sensor hole. The drive must have been in the perfect spot to let fluid by. Anyway, great idea on the fill plug. As you see in the video I drained out the final drive but didn't re-fill until after the splines were lubed. Thanks for the info!
Hi there! Thanks for your video’s. You mention at beginning a new paralever bolt is required. What is preventing re-using the old paralever bolt, instead of replacing it?
Also, any experience on checking and maintaining the wire spokes on GS for a video? Cheers
@Mark Wilson - Thanks for your question and for watching. That paralever bolt is considered a stretch bolt so once you torque it, it stretches and should not be re-torqued. Now if I was in a jam and didn’t have a new one available I would use the same one until I could get the new one. Some people may re-use the same one without issue, but I’m going to stick with BMW’s recommendation of replacing it. Thanks for the video suggestion on the wire spokes, I will definitely add it to the list of to-do videos. Cheers!
Wonderful instructions and tips. May I suggest, find something the same thickness as your rotor, a piece of wood. Slip that in between the pads once the caliper is off. This will prevent the gap from closing and will allow you to slip the caliper easily back on. My 2014 GSA para-lever bolt was REALLY tight, no really! I had to use a heat gun to heat up the back threads and use penetrating spray. No not rusted WAY too much lock tight. Once the bolt was out I ran the bolt in and out from the backside with penetrating spray to clean out the old lock tight, OMG. One other thing, I noticed on the mud flap the arm on the bottom was melted on the inside. Could the rotor get that hot?
@Othoap Proto- Thanks for the comment! You’re absolutely right, it’s a good point about the pads closing in when you take off the caliper. I actually squeezed the brake lever one time and they closed in much more than what I would expect. So yes, definitely insert something in between those pads, and don’t touch the brake lever! I also have pad separators which does the job. And how bad did the plastic melt on that mud guard? I can’t imagine the rotors would get that hot!
I saw video where a guy used a length of para cord to hold the drive shaft, then he lifted the final drive into place, took him one try and he was done. I wish I would have seen that video years ago, because I struggled to always get the shaft and the splines to mesh.
@Drop Tine - Interesting! I'll have to try that myself next time I work on those splines. I think you would need drop it in gear so the drive shaft doesn't turn when mating. Thanks again!
Awesome video! Is you torque wrench for the lower (5-10Nm) values a 1/4 or 3/8 drive?
@lipripr55 - Thanks for the comment! The lower range torque wrench is a 1/4 drive. I use a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter on the sockets that I only have in 3/8 size. I needed this lower range torque wrench because I broke off a few screws using my other torque wrench, the low end range of those torque wrenches are not accurate at all!
It is wise to put grease on the front joint of the bellows....... But it would be even better to also put some on its rear part where the humidity will be able to pass through just as much......
@sergechappaz6734 - Thanks for the comment!
Hello,
Once again, a big thank you for this video which allowed me to carry out the operation. Top !
I have a question: in the documentation that I found, it is requested to use NBU 30 TPM grease to grease the bellows (and not the splines) and Castrol Optimoly TA grease for the splines. In the video you use NBU 30 TPM grease for the splines. Is this normal?
Congratulations again for the video. Thank you for your reply.
Eric
@Eric & Mara - Thanks for the comment and for watching….again! I used the NBU 30 TPM grease on the splines because I’ve been using it on my older R100/7 clutch splines and it never failed me! I would use the Castrol as it was recommended in the doc’s you have. I think both lubricants will serve the purpose, especially since BMW isn’t using any at the factory or recommended it as part of the regular maintenance. I also have the Castrol version, I would not hesitate using it. Hope this helps!
@Eric & Mara - Sorry I keep responding from my other account. Ditto what I just said!
Wonderfully comprehensive and useful video. Where did you source the plastic bottle with the angled spout?
@albertsanchez8007 - Thank you for the comment and watching! I'm pretty sure I bought that dispenser bottle at Beemer Boneyard, but I just checked and the one they sell now doesn't have the angled spout. www.beemerboneyard.com/finalbottle.html. Thanks again!
Thank you, you're a good guy.@@zooskifilms
@@albertsanchez8007 - I do what I can when I can! Cheers!✌
Wow great vid, I have an air cooled 2010, do you think this procedure is the same?
@Bryan Coombes ART - I've seen a 2007 R1200GS final drive and it looked very similar, so my assumption is the 2010 would be the same as well. Good luck and let us know how it works out. Cheers!
Great video! What about the splines on the drive shaft connecting to the engine side? I keep hearing about rust on the splines and little concerned about why so many say something about the rust. The dealership said they would not worry about rust being on the splines…they said it was not likely. Guess I will see. Your details are greatly appreciated. Really helps on the first time doing. Thanks!
@J W - In retrospect I should have checked both ends of the drive shaft. But what I kept hearing was the rust was mainly on the final drive end. I'll make a follow up video on the next spline maintenance and check both ends. I put out a survey asking the question on how many folks were seeing the rust on the final drive end, and of the folks who checked the splines a few more said they did NOT (vs did ) see any rust. I guess you can dive deeper with the questions and then ask if people ride in the rain, or through water, to determine if there's a connection on the ones that show rust. I've heard from at least two people who said the splines were so rusted they fused to the final drive and then had to replace the drive shaft and parts of the final drive, a very expensive proposition. So why not spend a few minutes checking. Cheers!
One last question regarding the splines. What are some of the symptoms you have heard of related to rusty splines? Vibration in the pegs, extra clunky shifting, etc?
@@jimwms1able - I haven't heard of any symptoms, just that the rust would eventually freeze up to the final drive, and if you needed to do any repairs in that area you would not be able to separate the drive shaft from the final drive. If you never needed to get in there for any other reason it likely wouldn't matter if you lubed them up.
Mmmm. Nice video. but on the technical data sheet (workshop manual) the bevel gear oil filler cap is not a Torx but a 6 hexagonal. Sometimes, the mechanics use a Torx and ruin the seat. the marks of a Torx remain but in reality it is hexagonal. they had ruined my cap too. I got it new from BMW Service and it's hexagonal. 👍🏼
@enrico puecher - Wow, you are correct! I had to take a closer look but it seems I jammed T40 bit in there instead of a H6 hex bit. Thanks for correcting me, I will post the correction in the Description. Damn, now I have to replace that cap bolt. Thanks again! 😬
hello ... I too had to replace the cap. however, it is the only solution. 👍🏼
I´m surprised to see how much easy the rain water could enter the drive shaft with that rubber system
@Julio Carrilho - Yes, I think mainly any water coming from underneath the rubber boot, water on the road or riding through streams. If the bike is not moving and it rains, not much water will go in.
Very nice video - It's probably overkill, but I always pull the driveshaft and perform the same clean and re-grease on the front spline as well. If you think getting the rear spline to mesh is frustrating, the front one is at another level. I find a long zip-tie loosely looped through the rear of the U-joint a must for the lift and level to start, on both ends. Removing the lower shock bolt to allow the swing arm to pivot down further is also necessary to access the front spline.
What are your thoughts on servicing the front spline and duration?
I did have a driveshaft fail on me once. It was the front spline on a 2007 R1200GSA at 57k miles, hence the reason I service the splines at both ends now.
@Preston Warren - Thanks for the comment and question. I've been asked about servicing the splines on the transmission side, I didn't really think about doing it at first, seemed that many owners have complained about rusty/stuck splines at the final drive end, and that's was a bigger concern for me. I will definitely service the front splines on the next service interval. I watched a few videos of folks servicing the front splines and seemed like there is a c-clip that is supposed to hold it in place but then when people remove the shaft there is no clip there, only the groove on the shaft. Is that what you experienced? Anyway, that will be another video for the list, servicing both front and rear splines. Thanks again!
@@zooskifilms On my 2015 R1200RT, the front clip is there. Makes it a bear to get off, but since the end of the shaft is tapered, not much of an issue to reinstall. Happy wrenching!
@@PWarren4 - Great, thanks, same to you!
I am planning on changing the rear gear oil on my bike for the first time. This video is so clear on what steps to take. Could recommend a good torque wrench? Thanks
@Kendall Adams - Sorry for my delay! I personally use TEKTON, which is a midline wrench. I'm sure there are better ones out there (which means more expensive). Also depends on if you want a digital or mechanical wrench. The digital ones are convenient but also carry a higher cost. Check out this article: www.forbes.com/wheels/accessories/best-torque-wrenches/ . Good luck on your search!
Great video, I was wondering why you didn't do the front splines of the drive shaft ? Is this not necessary?
@speedtoyz - Great question! My recommendation would be to check both ends of the shaft. I received a lot of feedback about this and after investigating it seems better to check both ends of the shaft. I will definitely do on the next service interval. I didn't check them during this video because my impression was the final drive end of the shaft was more prone to rusting because much easier for water to seep into that area. There are some videos out there showing how to do this. I will make an updated video when I check them again.
Do the splines where the driveshaft mates with the transmission require same maintenance?
Thanks for the videos.
@stroln - It wouldn't hurt to check them, I didn't look at them when I made this video because my concern was on the final drive side where water can more easily find it's way in. But I will definitely check the transmission end next time.Hope this helps!
Thanks for the very nice video. I noticed by the way that you use STABURAGS NBU 30 PTM also for the spline connection. However, BMW recommend another product (molub alloy paste ta) for this job. The key here is the very high temperature differences. While STABURAGS above mentioned operates from -10°C to 160°C the Castrol Molub Alloy Paste TA operates from -40°C up to +1100°C. So BMW recommends to use STABURAGS only on the rubber boot and the Castrol on the spline. What's your experience? Thanks again for the time spent to share this very beautiful video.
@Alessio Bertone - Thanks for the comment and question! As far as the spline and rubber boot grease, I use the Staburags NBU 30 PTM on the splines because that's what I've used on my older R100/7 with good results. I like the Staburags because it is quite tacky and seems to really adhere to the splines. In the video I also show the Castro Molub Alloy Pastes TA as an alternative because I've read the same recommendation (preferred spline grease) from many users. I have not had any issue using the Staburags though, and the splines don't appear to lose much of that grease when I perform the next spline service. For the boot grease I like to use the Kluber ISOFLEX grease because it contains barium complex soap and is less prone to washout when exposed to water. I have never tried using the Staburags on the boots, but I also read this is preferred method for many users. I prefer to continue using what has worked for me, but that doesn't mean it's the best solution. I have not been able to find any official recommendation from BMW on which grease to use for each application (my manual doesn't show any spline maintenance at all), perhaps it's on the service manual DVD that I don't own (only the Haynes manual). If that's the case then perhaps I would change to what is recommended there.
@@zooskifilms he is correct, the repair manual recommends Staburags for the boot sealant and Castrol Molub-Alloy TA for the splines.
Have you considered fully removing the boot to clean it and then apply new grease to both sides?
@@GaryBe403 - Thanks for your comment! I really didn't consider taking the boot off completely, but now that you mention it, makes sense to do so. I see I didn't put any sealant on the other side of the boot, probably should have done so to make the job more complete. Thanks again for the comment and advice!
Great videos for the BMW but I do have a question. For the boot assembly, you used Kluber IsoFlex grease. Is there a specific reason you used that exact grease and is there an alternative option that doesn't cost over $50?
Other than that, I feel confident based on your video, and a 6 pack of cold beer, that I'm up to the task.
@Patrick Perry - Thanks for your comment and question. I use Isoflex grease because it contains barium complex soap (a thickener for the grease). This type of grease is less prone to water washout compared to other traditional soaps used in greases. I don't ride through rivers and creeks every day, so it's probably overkill. I would recommend any dialectric silicone grease or lithium grease (anything without petroleum - like Vaseline - a no-no on rubber). Danco makes an inexpensive silicone grease for o-rings and seals used in faucets, costs under $5 for a small tube. Because silicone grease is transparent in color, I would prefer to use lithium grease because you'll see if/when it washes out, and time to add more. And a six pack is highly recommended when performing maintenance! Hope this helps and thanks again!
@@zooskifilms Great video, on the boot while everything is apart why not pull it off and reseal/grease it also on the final drive side?
I've seen lots of videos on lubing the final drive splines, but why do I not see videos that include the transmission end splines. Isn't that equally important?
@Frank Sikes - Thanks for your question. Yes, seems like most of these videos deal with the splines on final drive side. I made my video on the final drive side only because that seemed to be where most people found rust on the splines (including myself). I assume that was because it is more exposed to the elements (puddles etc) compared to the transmission side. In retrospect I should have done both sides to be more thorough. It would be nice if BMW would make a recommendation on this maintenance item. Anyway, I plan on checking both sides next time, will post an update video when I do. Thanks again!
Hi .... Great informative video 👍
But I was just wondering wwhy you didn’t grease the front of the drive shaft where it goes into the gearbox while you had it all apart ?
@Emsill63 Cazm63 - Thanks for the comment and question! Yes, I should have probably lubed up the other end of the splines at the same time. Everything I read online focused on the final drive end (in terms of rusting). But I will definitely service both ends on the next interval. If the gearbox end looks good I might service it every other time I service the final drive end. Thanks again for watching!
@@zooskifilms ..... Fantastic Video content & great straight talking narration 👍. I have just subscribed to your channel looking forward to seeing your other videos 😊 ...... keep up the good work 👍
@@EmsillCazm - Thank you very much for the sub! It is appreciated. Hope you enjoy the other videos as well. And please feel free to suggest a video topic! Cheers!
Very informative thanks. My guess is that procedurally there would be no difference between the 1200 and 1250, is that correct?
@Robert Paterson - Yes, very similar based on the microfiche that I looked at. I would double check the torque specs just to be sure no difference. But otherwise the mechanics are the same.
..there is one VERY important, final drive oil for 1250 is 70W-80 G3. Look up your owners manual. Older model is 75W-90 like in the video.
Great video as always; Questions:
1. Are you using the repair manual CD to know the torque specs.?
2. Did you greased the spline at 4,000 miles like you did the final drive, if so, why so early?
3. I contacted BMW in Germany and they stated people are not supposed to grease the spline, unless doing many river crossings.
4. Would these steps be identical for the GS1250 model? Meaning torque and 10m final drive bolt?
Thank you for saving us BMW GS owners a lot of money by avoiding expensive $180/hr dealer labor rates. Though most GS owners probably have the dealer do the job as most GS owners are wealthy! ;-)
@Javan Dell - Thanks for the comment, here are answers:
1) I purchased the Haynes manual (hard copy), so using torque specs from that. I also found some helpful sites that publish torque specs for BMW motorcycles, and that matched the Haynes manual (I didn't check every spec, just the ones I need at the time).
2) Yes, I did grease the splines on the first oil change on the final drive (around 6,000 miles). The reason I did it early was because I saw many owners complain about rust forming on those splines, especially at low mileage, so I wanted to check mine. And of course there was rust there, so I went ahead and greased them up.
3) Interesting comments from BMW on greasing the splines. I've heard from one owner the splines were rusted and froze the drive shaft to the final drive, and was replaced under warranty. I think rust forms from high humidity areas and also from areas that are in cold climates, the freezing and thawing can also promote condensation if the changes happen quickly.
4) I would suspect the R1250GS is similar, the bolt is the same based on the microfiche I found. As such I would expect the torque spec to be the same.
Glad you found the video helpful! I enjoy working on the bike, and saving money is always a big plus!
@@zooskifilms There is a service task coming out for 1250 to drill a drain hole in the shaft housing a fit a one way valve, serve task due out July 2022, waiting on dealers to get the correct tools to do the job
What about the other end of the driveshaft. I have seen many videos where they lube both ends of the driveshaft ( and the front of the driveshaft gets dry too )
@on2wheels - Yeah, I should have covered both ends, seemed like most folks had issues on the final drive end. I plan on making a follow up video to cover the transmission end. Thanks for watching and for the question. Cheers!
Hello friend, I have a question. Do I need to remove the oil from the differential drive to remove the cardan for lubrication?
@rodrigoramosmartins - No need, it’s recommended to change the final drive oil and lubricate the splines at the same time, but it’s not required. Hope this helps!
Great film. I do have a question though. You mention using red loctite My understanding is that you can then only remove bolts with red loctite with heat.( the loctite site) Did you use red? Again I enjoyed the video.
@Robert Head - thanks for the comment. So for the paralever bolt I did use red thread locker. It was not the Loctite brand but it did say “permanent” on the label. I assume “red” is always associated with being the stronger version of a thread locker. Anyway, it’s the same red thread locker I used on the previous disassembly. For me it felt tight when I removed the bolt this time, but did not need to use heat to aid the process. I will say I didn’t use an excessive amount, just a nice drop and let it spread from there, giving it a couple of minutes to set before installing. If you decide to purchase a new bolt the red thread locker was already applied on the bolt. Well, for the one I purchased anyway. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the reply. I look forward to watching more videos
Great Video! Thank you! How often (how many miles) one needs to lubricate the splines?
Jose Luis - since I could not find any formal recommendation anywhere I would suggest checking the splines (and lubricating if necessary) each time you change the final drive gear oil. Which would be every 20,000km or 12,000 miles. And thanks for the comment!
@@zooskifilms Checked my 2017 GSA @ 14500miles.... drive shaft was rusted (welded) to the rear final drive splines. At that point final drive and shaft went to the dealer. Thank goodness i was still under warranty, parts bill was $4400 and change! Lube those splines!!!!! Great Video!
Wouldn't you want to use a moly based grease on the splines with a temp rating of at least 750 degrees F?
@James Morgan - Well I just don’t get it. Why wouldn’t BMW lube those splines at the factory. It just cost them $4400.
@James Morgan - I have been using the Staburags on my old R100/7, based on recommendation from Chris Harris (check out his videos!) It worked well so I decided to also use on my R1200GSA. I understand many people like using Optimal, which is now the Castrol Molub Alloy Paste TA. Not sure what the moly content is in that. There seems to be lots of opinions out there on what to use. I think any one of these will work, just keep checking every 12k miles. Cheers!
Thought you had a new bolt for this job
@Steven Harris - Yes, good catch! I wasn't able to get the bolt in time for the video shoot so I replaced the original one once it came in. Great eye!
NiCE ViDEO.but what ı know you should fill final drive till a few drop will come out.??
@hRn eRg. - That might be true on some bikes and model years, but for the most of the R1200's manufactured in past ~10 or so years, it is specifically 180ml. My 2015 Honda Forza has final drive gears and it specifies what you mention, filling just until the fluid drips out of the fill hole. I don't have any information on what happens if you put more than 180ml of gear oil, I suspect it might leak out somewhere. But again, the 180ml number is well documented.
Curious why you are not lubricating the other end of the drive shaft at the main drive?
@Rick McLeod - I focused on the final drive side because most of the complaints of rust forming on the spline was on that end. In retrospect I should have serviced both ends, just to be more thorough. I plan to do this during the next service on the splines. The latest service bulletin from BMW also focuses on the final drive end. Seems less likely for water to pool on the other end of the drive shaft. Hope this helps!
Hi, I was wondering if you could help me out figuring out the brand name type etc… on 2017 R1200R coolant? I just need to top it off. No info in the manual. Thank you for your time
@erkans5495 - BMW offers coolant, the PN is 82142209769. Are you looking for an alternative to the BMW product?
I was trying to find the oem coolant that bmw uses for the r1200r. Thank you
For a shaft drive it's not very maintenance free is it? What is happening to the oil to warrant changing it on a service schedule? What is wrong with the design if the splines need greasing? My Triumph shaft drive is sealed for life after the first 500 miles service. For a shaft drive it's not very maintenance free is it?
@Terry Cox - Unfortunately these days definitions have changed, should be termed "low maintenance". I still prefer the driveshaft over the chain. Now that's high maintenance!
What about the other end of the shaft? Doesnt that also need lubricant/grease?
@Geir Asle Hegard - At the time I made this video I found most complaints about the rust found on the splines to be on the final drive side. In retrospect I should I have checked both ends, just to be sure. I will check both ends and make an update video on the next servicing. Cheers.
is it normal that my r1200rt 2016 on the center stand put it in gear and we ear a clunging sound toward final drive ,it does in any gear
@ivanhoe beaupre - Good question. I've never tried that before, I've read it's not good for the transmission to run it through the gears without any load (tire not on the ground). I think this would also apply to the final drive. What you might be hearing is the drive shaft jumping when dropped into gear. I assume you don't hear it when the rear wheel is touching the ground and put into gear?
Since you are this deep into the bike, why would you not lube the front splines as well? Do they have another way of getting lubricant? Thank you.
@almccallie4314 - Good question, get that question a bit. In retrospect I should have checked it. The main reason I didn’t was because I heard many folks complaining about rusted splines at the final drive. Never heard anyone complain about the transmission side so I didn’t check them. But will definitely do so on the next round. Thanks for watching and the question! Happy wrenching and ride safe.
@@zooskifilms I think you’re right…I never hear about the front splines being problematic. That’s why I asked if they somehow stay lubricated. Great video, I appreciate very much. Thank you.
@@almccallie4314 - Hey thanks for the comment and watching. I'll probably do an update video this spring to check the transmission side to see if there is any rust there. Let's see how it goes. Cheers!
Question, can thr spline service be completed without changing final drive fluid?
@Gary Brown - yes you can, but would recommend finding something to plug up the speed sensor hole after you remove it. The final drive spilled on me when I lowered the final drive. I had someone say they dropped it without any oil coming out, not sure how that was possible. Otherwise that’s the only thing to watch out for. Good luck - and Cheers!
a dab will do ya
@rimwydas44 - Yes, less is more!
Nice video. You don’t do the splines on the transmission output?
@Jeff in TD - Good point! I'll have to address that in a future video. I assumed the splines at the final drive were exposed to more moisture, but that might not be necessarily so. I'll dig into it a bit more. Thanks for the question!
I’m thinking I’m about due to grease splines, and probably front wheel bearings.
@@JeffinTD - some folks we’re seeing rust on those splines with under 5k miles. One guy said it was rusted and frozen. He had them replaced under warranty.
I greased mine when the bike was pretty new. Externally they seem ok, but you don’t really know until you take them apart. I do ride quite a bit in weather and dirt roads, but don’t go river fording or anything crazy. That said, front axle was trying to seize the last time I did a tire change- so that needs grease more frequently than every tire change.
I’m a bit concerned about clutch splines, but that is so much work that unless there are symptoms...
Anyway happy riding.
You’ve got me thinking about those clutch splines. I might tackle that this spring/summer. Curious how they look.
shouldn't the shaft be placed in the same position as it was at the factory ?
@60Ri5 - Good question! I can't find anything that says the shaft has a specific orientation, and I did not see any markings on the shaft end or final drive. I am fairly certain it does not matter, otherwise the shaft would be keyed to go on one way only. My opinion only. Best!