Nah that's for ladies, I know damn well I'm not putting headers on anyone else's cars or any more of mine unless there's a wheel barrow full of money involved
We must have a really old set of Spring compressors, Ours come as a set and they go on the outside of the Spring on oppositesides, so you can stuff the spring back where it belongs, thenput the pressure back on it and they just fall off.
The subframe nut clips were supposed to be hooked on the weld flange near the nut location. It is probably easier from my vantage than yours as an armchair quarter back to see that. The nutclips will work either way but seem to be designed and intended to be attached as I described. Best to you, Ray. I love watching your work and your eloquent mechanical commentary. It makes me wish for younger days. I've told you before that I was a heavy aircraft mechanic in life in other comments, ie... cotter pins vs. cotter pins, before my failing health forced me to retire disabled, but now, mostly confined to a recliner, watching your channel is a blessing. You have "good hands", my friend, if I can take the liberty of calling you a friend... you are at least a brother mechanic. Keep the videos coming. It enhances my life and keeps my mind alert. I wish you the best for you and your family. I hope to be able to meet you someday.
@@rottmanthan LOL same same ... not that it matters mechanically/structurally once fastened. Just that fact that they somehow became unclipped in the 1st place prolly suggests something, like perhaps they were just too loose/stretched/fatigued anyway or something. But I'd reclip them if possible just bc that's how they're "supposed" to go.
this was one job that makes working on PT Cruisers comparable to the "walk in the park". I'd never let anyone talk me into installing headers on a SN95 after witnessing this!
hey ray those bolts with the clip on the subframe are supposed to be hooked onto the frame i ran into that issue with going behind other people i do not know if those before you got into it if someone was in there before not criticizing just a helpful hint man great man
@@heckelphonI thought so too, like maybe it was engagement trolling but they were clearly still like that after he did the power steering and began putting in two other nuts. I mean, if they didn’t need to clip to the edge/lip and it was fine for them to spin freely, wouldn’t they be regular nuts instead of fancy heavy-duty clip-on J-nuts? It looked like there was even a notch in the lip for at least two of them.
Had a new 74 ford F-250 360 ci. Bought a set of Headman heders for $75.00. Hired a garage to install the headers for $20.00. When I picked up the truck paying the bill, installer told me he'd never mess with headers again. That's why I brought it to him to start with. True story.
I appreciate seeing the fine tricks of the trade to get those terribly tight components re-assembled by you. And I know this has been learned through the school of hard knocks.
Awesome job. A trip down memory lane. I did the BBK long-tube headers with their catted H-pipe about 20 years ago on my '98. Didn't drop the front subframe; just took the engine off the mounts and jacked up one side at a time to rotate it for access. Still a very challenging job. Love the videos Ray.
I never really thought about the differences between repair mechanics and custom car builders. I worked at a shop in San Diego after I retired from the Navy, building mostly 60’s, 70’s muscles cars. We would get an occasional late model in for some upgrades, limited of course due to being in California. But installing a set of headers and custom exhaust was like an everyday thing for us. Seeing you do it and talking about how it’s kinda “something new” to you yet being almost normal for me. I like you channel just because I do learn things still about the repair side of things over the custom side. I can usually figure out repairs as well but just seeing the variety of cars you deal with is pretty cool. I do know I wouldn’t want to just do repair. I like customizing and building and restoring over repairing. But I do have to do the repairs too on our daily drivers, and get to have the fun with my project 69 Pontiac Firebird. So basically what I’m saying is thank you for showing us this side of the industry.
You are both mechanics and have the same skills you have to be a mechanic for taking parts and add new ones it's the customization aspect is the difference
i can tell you are happy to see this one done not because of the job it's self but the parts are a pain in the butt to install and took way more then you envisioned
Ray this was a very interesting video. It had to a losing proposition financially, but your diligence to your patrons is amazing. It was a bit sketchy at times and I feel your pain, but you did the work as safely as possible and achieved your goals! Outstanding…. You are the man Ray.
Easiest Mustang spring removal and reinstall: place a floor jack under the INSIDE of the control arm, unbolt the inside of the control arm, and lower the jack slowly - spring comes right out, no compressor or prybar needed. To reinstall - place the spring back in the unbolted control arm, use the floor jack to compress the control arm/spring until you can reattach the two bolts. WAY easier than using a prybar/spring compressor to work on the spring from the outside.
It's interesting, some things never really change...Many years ago (50-odd) I owned an early 1060's Wolsey 24/80. I needed to change the clutch and the recommended procedure was to loosen the front crossmember, steering, brakes and other things, then raise the body and wheel the engine and transmission out from under the car where it was easy to work..... Not easy for a home mechanic.
Having the right tools for the job is most definitely a plus... I been binge watching you're livestream the last 2 day's... Its been a minute since i could watch a livestream all the way through...either too many ads...the creator's sounds soo karma an all about themselves... Yesterday i watch 3 livestream all the way through...its been great..me n my son pulled a tranny out from his 1997 Nissan 200 sx...i bought it for his 16th birthday.. unfortunately the transmission went bad..could drive backwards every where you wanted to go..but never forward... This is a great father n son bonding fosho... It probably going cost $1.800 dollars from it to get rebuilt... My son dean wanted to buy a brand new yet auto parts store couldn't find one on line...... Long story short.... I love this channel I myself changed motor and transmission buy myself when i was in my 20s..not having a tranny jack an laying on my back bench pressing the transmission up n using my knee was a experience.... My father taught me how to do the basic on vehicle's as I am passing it on to my boys all 3...
Ray, you used a term "rigamarole" that I'm certain isnt in popular use anywhere I've been, so its great that you're expanding our vocabularies. Stay well and safe.
what most people fail to notice before buying aftermarket performance parts is that each part is usually designed to be fitted with modified components or used with other aftermarket products. for example, these headers were probably designed to be used with low profile engine mounts and a tubular subframe which would've made this install a whole lot easier than it actually was, and it's most likely possible that in the forums or with folks who modify these specific mustangs, know that with these specific headers, you have to shave off a bit of the block like ray did to have them fit. whatever the case, aftermarket doesn't always necessarily mean bolt on unless you modify or buy supporting modifications.
Hooray for Ray!! I don't think he will ever feel the difference driving around on the street. Great Job and my hats off to you good sir. I wish I lived closer to you so you could work on my car.
That job was good for you and your viewers. You were humbled by it and took ownership of the quoted price. Me, your viewers and you are better people after watching this video. Thank you 🙏
Ray... Cereally... Put a gantry I beam mounted to the ceiling over one of the lifts for these sketchy sitchamikashuns with an electric chain fall and trolley. Cut a piece of hollow rectangular bar stock wider then the vehicles. Eye hooks on both ends (short side). Y chain that will hook onto both ends of the hollow bar stock and the chain fall then once the hood is removed, you can support the engine in whatever manner that makes you more comfortable from the gantry and cross tube.
There is nothing like the throaty sound of a Mustang! Nice! Good mod job! My love for Mustangs goes way back to 1965! My 1977 turbocharged 2300cc Mustang II with Eilderbrock water injection doesn't hold a candle to that beast. Mine was too labor intensive. It was a labor of love back then... a hobby while I was in SAC in Ft. Worth, TX in the 1980s.
Just remember Ray, it's easier the second time! I appreciated Chipmunk Ray in the tedious part of you aligning the passenger side strut. Brought some humor to a clearly frustrating job.
We use spring clamps that go on the outside which would have been perfect, but it works what you do too. the important thing is that you protect yourself.
The small engine compartment, V-8 engine, makes everything on those Mustangs challenging. Imagine one with a 429/Boss in it! Great seeing you taking on that challenge. Again, I say it, you do not shy away from them. Your customers are lucky to have you. That Mustang now has a quality exhaust done to perfection.
This is one of the best mechanical service automotive channel on TH-cam very clear very good video quality I enjoy watching been a big fan for the last seven months
Just a heads up since I’ve done this before and looked to see what people usually do on these 4.6 engines I took the alternator out and used those holes with new longer bolts to hold it with the chains
you are truly amazing you doing an awesome job in all you do you dont see pride and caring people in the work place you are one of those people hard to find
Ray, you are a brave and persistent individual, I have to give you that. Did I forget to mention damn good at what you do? This specific job is one you do three times in your life. The first, the last and the very last time, they all happen on exactly the same day.
I have both inside and outside spring compressors. MY inside ones fit my Mercedes, and the outside other cars. This is a huge PITA for 20 HP. There are some jobs that suck the time out of a day or week. Love these videos because knowledge is power. Not to buy certain cars, and accessories! Thanks Ray
Cool series Ray, make me almost want to do my own installation… I said almost. But I will feel for the guy that does and somewhat appreciate his charges.
Nice result, nice exhaust note, good 'set' of videos. The owner obviously likes his car and is happy to spend money on the 'go-faster' goodies. If it was mine, I think I'd spend a little diy time sorting out the underbody rust as well.
Spring compressors: I've never seen a set that go inside the spring. I have a set and they go outside, and a quick Google showed a huge range of them, every one of which clamps on the outside of the spring.
The external compressor kits are very unsafe, they tend to come off at the wrong time, and you eat a spring and have to pick your teeth out of your next bowel movement. My uncle has owned a mechanic's shop for 50 years, and 30 years ago, one of his techs was rebuilding a strut, and the strut compressor failed. The spring knocked all of his teeth out, broke his lower Jaw in 3 places, broke his upper Jaw and his cheekbone, and orbital socket, plus almost ripped his eye out.
@tonyjover Crowbars are worse, prybars are much safer. Crowbars are too short, are made of softer steel, plus the 120° hook on the end and hexagonal cross-section make it very easy to slip out. Prybars are square in cross-section, longer, have a grip handle, and are made of harder, higher quality steel. Ray is also not trying to compress the spring with the bar, he's pulling the lower control arm down far enough to get the base coil locked into the spring pocket in the control arm, the jacking post and lift are doing the compressing. There is a specialized tool for grabbing and prying down and up on control arms, it's about 6 feet long, weighs 50 lbs and costs over $500. Ray has used that tool before at one of his old employers, but it belongs to that shop, and so far since opening his own business, this is maybe the second time he had a need for it, the other time was for a suspension rebuild on a customer's GM 3500 pick-up truck.
@@jsh6952 yes, I know what Ray was doing. I was merely commenting on his observation that he couldn’t use a spring compressor because they fit inside the spring, whereas there are plenty available that clamp onto the outside.
Ray, you will never go out of business as long as there is a Pentastar on the road.
😂😮😂frfr
Isn't that the truth! 😂
You had great patience with that 15 sec quarter mile exhausting upgrade! Professionally done good job!
It could either be the plastic oil cooler or complete engine replacement most of the time
Ouch
Rule of thumb I follow in my shop, any new header install, if done, is charged actual time.
It’s like childbirth. They say never again in the moment but down the road you find yourself willing to do it again!
😅🤣😂😅🤣😂 - Hadn't thought those words myself, but your comment is SO COMPLETELY apropos that I'm just now catching my breath!
Nah that's for ladies, I know damn well I'm not putting headers on anyone else's cars or any more of mine unless there's a wheel barrow full of money involved
Ray's been there and done it.
He probably would do it again
I'm impressed! You made that U-turn in a Mustang without sliding the rear and hitting a crowd of people!
😂😂😂
The 4.6 Non-PI head engines were not very powerful.
We must have a really old set of Spring compressors, Ours come as a set and they go on the outside of the Spring on oppositesides, so you can stuff the spring back where it belongs, thenput the pressure back on it and they just fall off.
They’re not old. They’re just for different applications. Surprised he doesn’t have both types.
Yes Ray, if you say so Ray, pry bar's so much better !
The outside ones do not have enough clearance and can not be used also. At least on a 66 lemans.
All too often in ' Rainman ' videos I see where some cute little tool could be used, or even made and then used, but it turns into ' pry bars '
The subframe nut clips were supposed to be hooked on the weld flange near the nut location. It is probably easier from my vantage than yours as an armchair quarter back to see that. The nutclips will work either way but seem to be designed and intended to be attached as I described. Best to you, Ray. I love watching your work and your eloquent mechanical commentary. It makes me wish for younger days. I've told you before that I was a heavy aircraft mechanic in life in other comments, ie... cotter pins vs. cotter pins, before my failing health forced me to retire disabled, but now, mostly confined to a recliner, watching your channel is a blessing. You have "good hands", my friend, if I can take the liberty of calling you a friend... you are at least a brother mechanic. Keep the videos coming. It enhances my life and keeps my mind alert. I wish you the best for you and your family. I hope to be able to meet you someday.
As a Septuagenarian, I too share your eloquent sentiment Sir!...
i came to the comments to see if anyone said anything about that so i didnt have to.
@@rottmanthan LOL same same ... not that it matters mechanically/structurally once fastened. Just that fact that they somehow became unclipped in the 1st place prolly suggests something, like perhaps they were just too loose/stretched/fatigued anyway or something. But I'd reclip them if possible just bc that's how they're "supposed" to go.
I also noticed that. In addition I noticed that the 10mm bolts that face foreword in the support assembly weren't refitted.
@@rottmanthan Me too.....
There are spring compressors that compress from the outside. Used them all the time at a dealership for recalls on the springs
I'm not a mechanic and I knew that. 😁
Good luck taking them off when the spring is installed
Exaktly The only we just in Sweden !!! The are mutsch more safe also !!
@@kevink8481 It's actually very easy, as long as you're not a muppet... You don't attach them at the very top or bottom of the springs.
@@1973retrorabbit very well aware of how they work. I have both internal and external compressors.
The joy in your voice is obvious as you get closer to the end of the job.
this was one job that makes working on PT Cruisers comparable to the "walk in the park". I'd never let anyone talk me into installing headers on a SN95 after witnessing this!
hey ray those bolts with the clip on the subframe are supposed to be hooked onto the frame i ran into that issue with going behind other people i do not know if those before you got into it if someone was in there before not criticizing just a helpful hint man great man
I thought that might have been "for show" and the orientation sorted out off camera as he also applied correct torque to them?
@@heckelphonI thought so too, like maybe it was engagement trolling but they were clearly still like that after he did the power steering and began putting in two other nuts. I mean, if they didn’t need to clip to the edge/lip and it was fine for them to spin freely, wouldn’t they be regular nuts instead of fancy heavy-duty clip-on J-nuts? It looked like there was even a notch in the lip for at least two of them.
That's not big deal.
@@glennschemitsch8341 How do you torque them down properly when they won’t sit flat?
I went back to the first video while disassembling. They weren’t clipped on the frame either. So someone must have taken that apart at one time?
Had a new 74 ford F-250 360 ci. Bought a set of Headman heders for $75.00. Hired a garage to install the headers for $20.00. When I picked up the truck paying the bill, installer told me he'd never mess with headers again. That's why I brought it to him to start with. True story.
I admire your patience, persaverce & most of all ingenuity.Glade to see the rest of the exhaust system went together so well
A masterful show, the audience applauded, demands an encore.
No díñgús
Ray, you must have the patience of a saint. Top job.
all the Oil coolers you are doing Dorman might become a sponsor
I appreciate seeing the fine tricks of the trade to get those terribly tight components re-assembled by you. And I know this has been learned through the school of hard knocks.
Well, finally we get to see the end result and Ray can count the bruises and cuts from the job... 😁😁😁
Awesome job. A trip down memory lane. I did the BBK long-tube headers with their catted H-pipe about 20 years ago on my '98. Didn't drop the front subframe; just took the engine off the mounts and jacked up one side at a time to rotate it for access. Still a very challenging job. Love the videos Ray.
Yup. That would have been my approach to this. One heck of a tight fit.
I never really thought about the differences between repair mechanics and custom car builders. I worked at a shop in San Diego after I retired from the Navy, building mostly 60’s, 70’s muscles cars. We would get an occasional late model in for some upgrades, limited of course due to being in California. But installing a set of headers and custom exhaust was like an everyday thing for us. Seeing you do it and talking about how it’s kinda “something new” to you yet being almost normal for me. I like you channel just because I do learn things still about the repair side of things over the custom side. I can usually figure out repairs as well but just seeing the variety of cars you deal with is pretty cool. I do know I wouldn’t want to just do repair. I like customizing and building and restoring over repairing. But I do have to do the repairs too on our daily drivers, and get to have the fun with my project 69 Pontiac Firebird. So basically what I’m saying is thank you for showing us this side of the industry.
You are both mechanics and have the same skills you have to be a mechanic for taking parts and add new ones it's the customization aspect is the difference
Ray that spring install was terrifying
i can tell you are happy to see this one done not because of the job it's self but the parts are a pain in the butt to install and took way more then you envisioned
Why you should always charge time/ matreials on jobs like this. Maybe get cash 1/2 up front, too.
Ray this was a very interesting video. It had to a losing proposition financially, but your diligence to your patrons is amazing. It was a bit sketchy at times and I feel your pain, but you did the work as safely as possible and achieved your goals! Outstanding…. You are the man Ray.
Nice to see this finished. Sounds really good.
Congrats on completion
Easiest Mustang spring removal and reinstall: place a floor jack under the INSIDE of the control arm, unbolt the inside of the control arm, and lower the jack slowly - spring comes right out, no compressor or prybar needed. To reinstall - place the spring back in the unbolted control arm, use the floor jack to compress the control arm/spring until you can reattach the two bolts. WAY easier than using a prybar/spring compressor to work on the spring from the outside.
Now that's the technique right there so long as you know what your doing holding all that spring load
Good lord, stressed just watching this,I imagine you, you deserve a good holiday I believe...well done.
This was 100% a labor of love...
The true lesson here is Ray's patience, he underbid, and still came out on top.
A lot of work for an exhaust system is a great job at showing us your process.
Great 3 parter. Really enjoyed it!! You sound very happy it’s behind you 😊
I think Pinky and Perky should get some praise for all the help. Thank you Ray.
It's interesting, some things never really change...Many years ago (50-odd) I owned an early 1060's Wolsey 24/80. I needed to change the clutch and the recommended procedure was to loosen the front crossmember, steering, brakes and other things, then raise the body and wheel the engine and transmission out from under the car where it was easy to work..... Not easy for a home mechanic.
Those headers found their forever home.
They'll be back soon for exhaust leaks.
Good job RAY , MORNING DAVE😅
Once again you over came and adapted , great job Ray .
When you talk in fast forward mode it makes my day brighter. Also that mustang sounds fricken AWESOME! You ROCK Ray!!
HEY lets bring the subscribers up to one million. Ray deserves it big time. The man that does the impossible!
I’m take 1m 🎉
Having the right tools for the job is most definitely a plus...
I been binge watching you're livestream the last 2 day's...
Its been a minute since i could watch a livestream all the way through...either too many ads...the creator's sounds soo karma an all about themselves...
Yesterday i watch 3 livestream all the way through...its been great..me n my son pulled a tranny out from his 1997 Nissan 200 sx...i bought it for his 16th birthday.. unfortunately the transmission went bad..could drive backwards every where you wanted to go..but never forward...
This is a great father n son bonding fosho...
It probably going cost $1.800 dollars from it to get rebuilt...
My son dean wanted to buy a brand new yet auto parts store couldn't find one on line......
Long story short....
I love this channel
I myself changed motor and transmission buy myself when i was in my 20s..not having a tranny jack an laying on my back bench pressing the transmission up n using my knee was a experience....
My father taught me how to do the basic on vehicle's as I am passing it on to my boys all 3...
Can't wait for my kids to get old enough just to have another set of helping hands
Ray, you used a term "rigamarole" that I'm certain isnt in popular use anywhere I've been, so its great that you're expanding our vocabularies. Stay well and safe.
Wonder what the origin of rigmarole….💁🏻♂️ is this a clue to where Ray comes from?
I have heard it used all of my life in Va.
We say it way up north here in Minnesota
Very commonly used expression here in the UK.
what most people fail to notice before buying aftermarket performance parts is that each part is usually designed to be fitted with modified components or used with other aftermarket products. for example, these headers were probably designed to be used with low profile engine mounts and a tubular subframe which would've made this install a whole lot easier than it actually was, and it's most likely possible that in the forums or with folks who modify these specific mustangs, know that with these specific headers, you have to shave off a bit of the block like ray did to have them fit. whatever the case, aftermarket doesn't always necessarily mean bolt on unless you modify or buy supporting modifications.
Great series Ray. I know you’re glad this one is done.
Great job Ray!!
Hey Ray, you did a great job on that car and it sounds really nice. I have no doubt your customer was very pleased when he got his car back. Cheers!
Amazing 3 videos on this mustang Ray!
Hooray for Ray!! I don't think he will ever feel the difference driving around on the street. Great Job and my hats off to you good sir. I wish I lived closer to you so you could work on my car.
Nice job. Also, no fingers smashed during this procedure. Win.
Good job Ray, seems like aftermarket headers are never as simple of a job as they should be.
Outstanding display of skill and experience - perhaps we can as my dad used to say, "smell the rubber burning" as you worked out challenges.
That job was good for you and your viewers. You were humbled by it and took ownership of the quoted price. Me, your viewers and you are better people after watching this video. Thank you 🙏
Now off to the tuner shop
Ray... Cereally... Put a gantry I beam mounted to the ceiling over one of the lifts for these sketchy sitchamikashuns with an electric chain fall and trolley. Cut a piece of hollow rectangular bar stock wider then the vehicles. Eye hooks on both ends (short side). Y chain that will hook onto both ends of the hollow bar stock and the chain fall then once the hood is removed, you can support the engine in whatever manner that makes you more comfortable from the gantry and cross tube.
Watching you perform the unusual and uncommon mods, puts the perspective on trouble shooting and innovation. Thanks for the entertainment
Great job Ray! I've had the "pleasure" of doing that job multiple times. Fun times! The payoff always makes it worth the effort.
The visceral frustration is over. Character building experience ☑️.
Even over the TH-cams it sounds nice!
There is nothing like the throaty sound of a Mustang! Nice! Good mod job! My love for Mustangs goes way back to 1965! My 1977 turbocharged 2300cc Mustang II with Eilderbrock water injection doesn't hold a candle to that beast. Mine was too labor intensive. It was a labor of love back then... a hobby while I was in SAC in Ft. Worth, TX in the 1980s.
Just remember Ray, it's easier the second time! I appreciated Chipmunk Ray in the tedious part of you aligning the passenger side strut. Brought some humor to a clearly frustrating job.
We use spring clamps that go on the outside which would have been perfect, but it works what you do too. the important thing is that you protect yourself.
The small engine compartment, V-8 engine, makes everything on those Mustangs challenging. Imagine one with a 429/Boss in it! Great seeing you taking on that challenge. Again, I say it, you do not shy away from them. Your customers are lucky to have you. That Mustang now has a quality exhaust done to perfection.
Good to hear Ray the chipmunk making an appearance!
Great job Ray ,well worth the huge effort on your part to pull off this amazing project,end drive sounds awesome,keep up the amazing work 👌
Уффф. Я постмотрела все три части не отрываясь. Надеюсь, вы получили достойную оплату за такой труд. Это было эпично😮
This is one of the best mechanical service automotive channel on TH-cam very clear very good video quality I enjoy watching been a big fan for the last seven months
Just a heads up since I’ve done this before and looked to see what people usually do on these 4.6 engines I took the alternator out and used those holes with new longer bolts to hold it with the chains
Great job Ray. Sounds good too. Now you will enjoy your weekend.
I am particularly fond of the 2x speaking... makes me want to shout ALVIN!!!!
She's beautiful! Good job Ray!
A great 3 part series, I'm sure you'll never do again!! Fantastic job with miles of patience!!!
That mustang sounds awesome Ray! You did a great job. I hope the owner took care of you good and appreciates all the hard work you did!
you are truly amazing you doing an awesome job in all you do you dont see pride and caring people in the work place you are one of those people hard to find
Mustang sounds awesome you did a hell of a job brother
Thanks Ray for another great repair and video....Bill from Myrtle Beach SC....
Sounded great 👍🏼Great job Ray!
Aye caramba. Damn that sound is so nice. So the work paid off. Man you should start doing more of this jobs but charge more.
Who is going to tighten the header bolts after a few heat cycles? Exhaust leaks on aisle 3!
Ray, you are a brave and persistent individual, I have to give you that. Did I forget to mention damn good at what you do? This specific job is one you do three times in your life. The first, the last and the very last time, they all happen on exactly the same day.
Being a mechanic and a fisherman our similar, they both teach you about patience 😊 Great Job
I Watched All Three Videos on the Mustang. Ray you were the MAN. I totally enjoyed this. Thanks for sharing 😅
Enjoyed the complete project, Ray! Always look forward to your channel! Thanks!
Sounds good Customer should be happy was big job
And I thought it was a PITA putting headers on my truck, sheesh! Good on ya Ray!!
Wow. This has been a BIG JOB. Thanks for sharing Ray. Really enjoyed
Love the cameo appearance from Alvin, the chipmunk. Too funny man! 😊
This installation is a Grand Tour De Force!
Wow glad i changed my mind, I almost bought a set of shorty headers. No way i am going down that rabbit hole!
Super Job, Ray!! The Stang sound really mean...Have yourself a wonderful week!
Alrighty then let’s do another Mustang that was fun and educational!🥳
I have both inside and outside spring compressors. MY inside ones fit my Mercedes, and the outside other cars. This is a huge PITA for 20 HP. There are some jobs that suck the time out of a day or week. Love these videos because knowledge is power. Not to buy certain cars, and accessories! Thanks Ray
Thanks for another great video Ray! That fast forward section was funny!! Stang sounded AWESOME! Cheers Brother!
Cool series Ray, make me almost want to do my own installation… I said almost. But I will feel for the guy that does and somewhat appreciate his charges.
Great video ray!!! 3 parts but still great! I dont like fords specially mustang but you made it sound and look great!!! Thanks ray!!!
Wow Ray, what a PIA!!! Good job.
Crazy job you did it ray pats on the back well deserved brutal but accomplished nice work
Good morning Ray
You did an excellent job on this exhaust on this mustang 4.6
That was a great series. very nice exhaust system replacement.
Sweet vids dude, great sound. The owner must love that rig
Had a great sound through my system.
You sir are an artist.
Nice result, nice exhaust note, good 'set' of videos. The owner obviously likes his car and is happy to spend money on the 'go-faster' goodies. If it was mine, I think I'd spend a little diy time sorting out the underbody rust as well.
Spring compressors: I've never seen a set that go inside the spring. I have a set and they go outside, and a quick Google showed a huge range of them, every one of which clamps on the outside of the spring.
The external compressor kits are very unsafe, they tend to come off at the wrong time, and you eat a spring and have to pick your teeth out of your next bowel movement. My uncle has owned a mechanic's shop for 50 years, and 30 years ago, one of his techs was rebuilding a strut, and the strut compressor failed. The spring knocked all of his teeth out, broke his lower Jaw in 3 places, broke his upper Jaw and his cheekbone, and orbital socket, plus almost ripped his eye out.
More unsafe than a pair of crowbars?
80-90's mercedes spring compressors go inside the spring you can google w124 spring compressor
@tonyjover
Crowbars are worse, prybars are much safer. Crowbars are too short, are made of softer steel, plus the 120° hook on the end and hexagonal cross-section make it very easy to slip out. Prybars are square in cross-section, longer, have a grip handle, and are made of harder, higher quality steel.
Ray is also not trying to compress the spring with the bar, he's pulling the lower control arm down far enough to get the base coil locked into the spring pocket in the control arm, the jacking post and lift are doing the compressing. There is a specialized tool for grabbing and prying down and up on control arms, it's about 6 feet long, weighs 50 lbs and costs over $500. Ray has used that tool before at one of his old employers, but it belongs to that shop, and so far since opening his own business, this is maybe the second time he had a need for it, the other time was for a suspension rebuild on a customer's GM 3500 pick-up truck.
@@jsh6952 yes, I know what Ray was doing. I was merely commenting on his observation that he couldn’t use a spring compressor because they fit inside the spring, whereas there are plenty available that clamp onto the outside.