Yeah, when you walked around to the other side of the car, the audio dropped, so it seems as if it's still the mic on the camera is what's picking up your audio.
Yep, right at the cut at 21:31, it went back to bad audio. Background noise ramped up. I'm not sure where you were wearing the mic but it changes depending on where your arms and body are.
As far as neglecting to tighten all bolts, Eric O. Tells the story of what his dad told him, "if the shop is on fire, you tighten those bolts before you leave". Seems like good advice to me.
I really like how you showed a routine repair that you've shown multiple times and went off talking about tools and materials instead of the repair. It gives us weekend DIYers more insight. Would love to see more of that
Or you could be deaf. I did a brake job on a 1960s Karmann Ghia in the late 60s that had NO linings left, it was total metal on metal on all four wheels. It was a wonder the old guy could stop. As I remember the car was a trash heap inside.
🤨That's not a good idea if I heard your brakes squeak or grind. If I needed a ride from you, I would turn around and call someone else for a ride, ssshheeese!! dangerous! Why don't you look up most crazy accidents from people neglegents on vehicles my man and you would understand
Sorry for yet another comment: Greasing the wheel hubs or the surfaces of the rotors (where the wheels are contacting) is a nono. The bond between hub and rotor (and between rotor and wheel) is supposed to come from friction between those two surfaces. The wheel studs are supposed to create the tension to make this friction happening. The whelle studs (or fasteners) are NOT supposed to take shearing forces. By lubricating those surfaces you are reducing the friction and make the studs/fasteners prone to shearing forces.
Audio is vastly improved, however, I will say that the new microphone does pick up a lot of background noises. It is obviously very sensitive and powerful. It picks you up very well and has a great sound for what you need.
I have been a mechanic on airplanes and cars for 60 years and your ability amazes me. You tackle jobs I wouldn't even begin - keep the videos coming I even have learned a few thigs watching you work.
Ray, I very much appreciate how thoroughly you explain, in detail, the tools you use, why you do things during the job, and the pointers/precautions you share. You are the best teacher on the automotive channels. Thank you!
I have my aunt's 2001 mustang GT with the BBK headers, I have a new found deep respect for whoever went through that install after watching you go through it.
With wheel spacers you use the same torque spec as the lug nuts and its good practice to put a little bit of blue loctite on the threads to keep the nuts from wanting to back off. It's annoying to torque them because you have to use a pry bar to keep the hub from turning. Big spacers will strain the hubs and make them go bad sooner and stress the lug bolts more. Spacers like this size are fine as long as they are high quality and are hubcentric. Spacers that are not hubcentric should be illegal. Thanks for coming to my ted talk.
When I installed my hubcentric wheel spacers, I placed a length of pipe between the front seat frame and brake pedal. Moving the seat forward will apply the brakes so you can tighten the spacer Nuts.
They don't have to be, I know when I torque spacers like that, I just jam on the brakes by either wedging the pedal down, or a friend, then torque. Also a small spacer like this shouldn't be no harder on the hub bearing than a different offset wheel, its when that are much bigger and or heavier vehicle like them kids in them diesel's with the wheels sticking out past their tow mirrors.
In the 70’s we used to rebuild calipers on every brake job. This included the piston rebuild on the rear drum brakes at that time But, i have always remove one wheel’s brakes at a time and that explanation you gave of the piston popping out upon depression of another piston is exactly why my father taught us that way. Good video, it is good to see some of the multiple brake caliper design changes that the manufacturers have made. Innovation is good! Purple caliper grease apparently is bad. Thanks for that update too, i think i have a half tube left in my tool cart.
As a prior-service culinary chef watching you clean the grease off of those rotors with greasy fingers, all I could think of was, "NO, you're forgetting about cross-contamination!" Don't poison your guest rotors... 🤣👍
My thoughts exactly! 🤣 There should be clearly defined HACCP posters on the wall with color coding of said greasy fingers to avoid this cross-contamination! 🤣😂🤣😂
That last PSA on not compressing pistons when others are off was overlooked when I did my break job. Good thing I didn't do them all at once. I did however have to take my water pump off 2 times. First time I folded and ripped the o ring, next I took out a timing cover seal thinking that was the reason, luckily pressed a new one in. but it now appears to be leaking through the bearing because i didn't replace the pump and cheapened out thinking i could get away with a 80 dollar repair... THIS IS HARD MAN
Love coming home from work to a Ray video. Your videos are the perfect wind down to a busy day! Reminds me of sitting in the garage trying to learn everything I can from my dad!
@@tomn8tr I have a 2016 Mustang and I had to buy a special tool to rotate the pistons in the rear calipers in order to compress them. Soon I will have to do the brakes all the way around on my 16 Odyssey. Can't wait to see if I will have to buy special tools for that job.
Great audio and as for comments on background noises from this viewer I don't mind that either Thank you, Ray! I enjoy watching South Main Auto now and you and Eric O with the Can/music is always my favorite.
A new project for Ray! Add terminals that are accessible from the side of the tool box so you don't need to climb into the bed, open the box then open the other box just to connect the jumper cables. Just flip open a cover on the side of the tool box and connect the jumpers there!
He's got a lock on the tool box. I doubt he wants someone touching a wrench to his two exposed terminals. Similar reason I don't leave my winch connected.
Consider a capacitor jump box…no batteries …no precharge needed. Hook to most any battery as long as it has voltage (different units have different requirements for how much voltage ). Then once it reaches full charge (3 minutes or less). It varies on different units and charge voltage of battery you are hooked to which can be on another car if needed. …keen 6000A Super Capacitor Battery-Less Portable Jump Starter for 12V Car, Built-in 6 * 3000F Supercapacitor, No Pre-Charging Need, Extremely Safe, Always Ready Jump Start All 12V Car. All different price points but might want to check into it.
"Warped Rotors" have been a pet peeve of mine for Decades! Thank you for mentioning the real cause. It won't change the unwashed masses, but it made my day!
You must have watched a different video than the rest of us... Ray gave you three scenarios all of them being a variation of the same symptom. He gave you 3 results but he never gave you the root cause as to why rotors warp in the first place, 6:55 Ray: we either have surface thickness variation in the rotors that's where the rotor is a little thicker in spots... 7:17 Ray: The other way the rotor is warped and weevly-wobbly round. 7:19 Ray : The majority of vibrations is caused by issues with the surface and thickness of said surfaces... I will just say, rotors primarily warp because of excessive and constant heat that reach 900 degrees or beyond The reason why they warp can vary from literally anything to excessive or hard braking, bad factory casting and machining, wrong type of brake pads ceramic / metallic, cheap after market rotors, partially or fully seized caliper pistons, fully or partially seized sliders, contaminants on pads, bad wheel bearings, a build up of brake dust, mud, sand, rust build up when vehicles are left parked outside for longer periods, people who drive with two feet, uneven caliper piston pressure, aftermarket calipers, constant driving/braking in heavy traffic, poor ventilation and heat entrapment caused by wrong wheels or in this case fancy caliper covers that can trap heat. When a brake pedal pulses under your foot, this is a strong indicator of a warped rotor. We the unwashed know rotors warp and why they warp, its not rocket science It's also no secret that vehicles that do a lot of hi-way driving get longer brake pad / rotor life.
@@IR-nq4qv "Warp" as a generic term is my beef. I've installed Baer, Wilwood, Hawk and Performance Friction among others, and If I don't trust the owner to do a proper bed-in, I'll do it or else the rotors will be trashed, Not by warping, but by metallurgical changes and invariably it's not run out (i.e. warpage) that is the problem, it's varying thickness. The biggest culprit I've encountered is a clueless owner with new HP brakes doing a 120mph--Zero stop on the anti-lock AND THEN standing on the pedal at a dead stop!!! One time is enough to destroy a couple thou worth of hardware! If you doubt me, try it yourself. I also worked for ABEX when I was still in college and we had a 1 ton pickup that ran around with a bed full of steel just to replicate real world abuse. And, no, Actual warping isn't an issue with any but the cheapest Chinese rotors.
@@ManBearPig3 No one can definitively answer that query from where they are sitting. For any inquiring mind...Pads and rotors are made and meant to wear out, none are built to last. Alternatives., always use OEM warranty parts or top performance slotted / vented rotors and dual piston calipers. Change brake pads anytime they become glazed or exceed 65% of total wear to ensure proper stopping and maintain even rotor wear. All cars can be identical or comparable with the exact same brake materials set up. The only factors that can cause shorter brake life are driving conditions and driver habits with the caveat, conditions or habits don't necessarily have to be good or bad.
There's enough fur on that front dash cover to make a new dog. That Mustang definitely needs some love. I noticed a lot of play in the steering wheel as well. Hopefully the owner wants to see a rear brake video as well! (At their expense of course, hehe)
Hi Ray, just a note for you, when you install wheel spacers you should cut the original studs so they are flush with the spacer's surface... if you dont, the spacer will not seat properly and might give you that shake.
@@DaveBigDawg In some cases yes, but those Mustang wheels have pockets in them so the studs won't hit. I've never liked spacers, they just add an extra point of failure.
Love your videos entertaining and informative. I have worked on cars my entire life and I am 63. You explain things that the uninformed can understand.also when you make a mistake you admit to it.
Always a good idea to check level of fluid in the Reservoir or open bleeder and drain caliper fluid out of caliper to prevent pushing reservoir lid off and leaking fluid into engine bay
On the new slide pin lube, you're willing to do research learn and change if you find something better. Not all people are like that. Good job Ray, yall have a great weekend!
Oh, memories! 'Warped Rotors with Scant Friction-Material (but a hundred-fifty miles to go' " was the name of the rocksteady/soul ensemble I was with back in the eighties.
Just an observation. I was taught many years ago that the caliper should not be pushed back without opening the bleeder screw first. Then it just pushes out the old fluid and nothing is being pushed back into the system. I have always done it this way and still bleed the system with new fluid. It also eliminates any system flushes. I never see anyone doing it this way, but works for me for he past 50 years. Thank you for your videos, so enjoy watching and still learning.
You should also mention the people they shouldn't add brake fluid to their master cylinder because that's a good recommendation to see how your brakes are. The lower the fluid means of left pads that you have on your brakes. That way when you squeeze the Pistons back in the caliper it fills a reservoir back up
Just keep doing whatever works for you... I feel like that's how it should be done. There's a hype today for gadgets and knickknacks, which (some of 'em) have good use, but the old fashioned way hasn't actually gone bad or stopped working, and it even feels more personal, for the effort you put in as to get it to work
They are correct. That purple does seize the slide pins. I know this from doing my own. Good ole school axle or bearing grease hasn't failed in 60 years.
I was taught, years ago, that Syl-Glide was a good lube. However, I have found over the years that Syl-Glide eventually coagulates and makes the calipers stick. I use the CRC like Ray uses nowadays. Also, I never grease the backs of the pads. If anything, I use NAPA Disc Brake Quiet. You spray it on the backs and you'll never have disc brake squeal. Mostly with ceramic pads.
@@robertsheriff6118 I have never understood the need to grease the backs of the pads. The piston does not move around on the pad so no need to have a low friction surface and all the grease will do is attract brake dust and road grime. However I am not a mechanic by trade, just a retired farmer that serviced his own vehicles. Same goes for the pinion gear shaft on starter motors. Never grease the spiral gear as the grease will harden and attract any crap that gets up in the bell housing causing it to stick.
95 in Florida is like 115 in drier climates! Hot spots in the rotors have a different coefficient of friction that can also cause pulsing. Worn pads and hot rotors! Mic is working great!
Wheel spacers = Always a BAD idea! Not to mention the obvious issues, but the offset increases the cantilever load on the wheel bearing / hub....and causes early failures !
@@worxcustoms3440 Wheels with a lot of neg offset are bad too. I write service at a GMC dealership, and see it all the time. Spacers and high neg offset, tearing up hubs.
Opening the bleeder empty’s all that old fluid instead of sending it back but that’s me I don’t have the energy to go get a camera but the mic works great 👍 keep the videos up
Thanks for the update on your selection of slide pin lube. I have a nearly full container of the Permatex purple goop that I used once on my car, I purchased the stuff because I saw you using it. At 24:10 when you walked to the passengers side your audio dropped out.
For remembering to torque the lug nuts and whatever-else, MY trick has always been to leave one obviously backed-out or even 'entirely off'. I'd have to miss the whole nut being elsewhere/out at the end of its lug/on an actual wheel-lug or something 'odd' so there's no question that I need to attend to them more before closing up.
I don't believe your microphone is actually working properly. If you have it plugged into your camera, it may not be selected as the default microphone. When you walked away from the camera, we lost the volume on your voice. If it was working we wouldn't have noticed a change in volume. Edit: Re-watching that section of the video, I also noticed that the tone of your voice changed as you angled the camera towards you more just before you walked away.
Red thread locker should be applied to the wheel studs when using spacers and anti seize applied in between the spacer and rotor because the two dissimilar metals can corrode and bond the two making disassembly extremely difficult especially in the northern states.
TOPDC Quick Connect Plug Jumper Cables,1 Gauge 30 Feet 800A Booster Cables with UL-Listed Clamps, Heavy Duty Automotive Booster Jumper Cables for Car, SUV and Trucks with Carry Bag(TD-S02P0130) With all the electronics in your truck and your decision to forgo jump boxes in the future maybe try this quick connect jumper cable system going forward. Whether in the back box or under the hood accessed through the grill, this is something you can mount where you don’t have to open anything. Just plug in
Thank you dude !! I just ordered my new brake caliper compression tool. No more C-clamps for me !! Keep showing us your cool tools. I've been upgrading my stuff as I see new tools being used. Im almost 60 and still use tools my grandpa was using. But thanks to YT I'm learning all kinds of new things. Thanks again Ray !
Pretty sure I heard that about the purple stuff from Flat Rate Master but he basically said not to use it on Southern cars. Northern cars get brake jobs early due to rust jacking so it gets renewed before it can gum up.
WOW IT'S 7 PM IN ARIZONA, AND I FINALLY GOT TO SEE YOUR VIDEO, HAD A HECTIC DAY, DIDN'T EVEN GET MY MORNING COFFEE, BUT I WOULDN'T MISS YOUR SHOW RAY,😅 SEE YOU IN THE MORNING 😅
when i can i compress the caliper with a screwdrive or prydriver before unbolting just pry back inner pad saves time also c-clap vicegrips on inboard with the old pad and that works very well also never felt the need to buy exspenive tool like that to do this job..but it just makes you look better in the eyes of some customers
I remember when I bought my mechanic special 2003 dodge ram 1500 with mismatch pads all the way around and very warped rotors . I replaced them with cross drilled slotted rotors and no warping and no dust build up . Only bad is you can’t have them turned!
the second you ask if the new mic is good ----> it stopped working
LOL very Ray, of RAY.
Yeah, when you walked around to the other side of the car, the audio dropped, so it seems as if it's still the mic on the camera is what's picking up your audio.
I was gonna say the same thing, LOL!
Up until it stopped working, it sounded great!
Yes, you jinxed yourself.
Yep, right at the cut at 21:31, it went back to bad audio. Background noise ramped up. I'm not sure where you were wearing the mic but it changes depending on where your arms and body are.
Off duty rear brake videos are much better than no videos.
How about windshield wipers and air filters?😮
Yes
Agreed
As far as neglecting to tighten all bolts, Eric O. Tells the story of what his dad told him, "if the shop is on fire, you tighten those bolts before you leave".
Seems like good advice to me.
Eric O must have a very wise Dad🙏
I really like how you showed a routine repair that you've shown multiple times and went off talking about tools and materials instead of the repair. It gives us weekend DIYers more insight. Would love to see more of that
I second this comment!
Everyone knows that if you hear brake noise, it means your stereo is not turned up high enough. Sheesh
Or you could be deaf. I did a brake job on a 1960s Karmann Ghia in the late 60s that had NO linings left, it was total metal on metal on all four wheels. It was a wonder the old guy could stop. As I remember the car was a trash heap inside.
I once fixed a transmission by changing my CD from Queen to Iron Maiden
🤨That's not a good idea if I heard your brakes squeak or grind. If I needed a ride from you, I would turn around and call someone else for a ride, ssshheeese!! dangerous! Why don't you look up most crazy accidents from people neglegents on vehicles my man and you would understand
My new car's stereo doesn't have enough bass for low vibrations and whatnot. I need to remedy that. But yeah, fixes noise every time.
@@allenhackneyii125is a joke not a dick don't take it so hard
Sorry for yet another comment: Greasing the wheel hubs or the surfaces of the rotors (where the wheels are contacting) is a nono. The bond between hub and rotor (and between rotor and wheel) is supposed to come from friction between those two surfaces. The wheel studs are supposed to create the tension to make this friction happening. The whelle studs (or fasteners) are NOT supposed to take shearing forces. By lubricating those surfaces you are reducing the friction and make the studs/fasteners prone to shearing forces.
Audio is vastly improved, however, I will say that the new microphone does pick up a lot of background noises. It is obviously very sensitive and powerful. It picks you up very well and has a great sound for what you need.
I have been a mechanic on airplanes and cars for 60 years and your ability amazes me.
You tackle jobs I wouldn't even begin - keep the videos coming I even have learned a
few thigs watching you work.
Amazing how different brake jobs are in the north vs the south. Rust makes life more interesting.
Ray, I very much appreciate how thoroughly you explain, in detail, the tools you use, why you do things during the job, and the pointers/precautions you share. You are the best teacher on the automotive channels. Thank you!
Back ground noise sounds like jets flying around, great vid Ray😁
I have my aunt's 2001 mustang GT with the BBK headers, I have a new found deep respect for whoever went through that install after watching you go through it.
When the gaskets fail, do yourself a favor. Install a tubular k member. The headers can be taken off in less than an hour.
If you think the header install on an 01 gt is long, look up the 2011 and up gt install. Nearly 15 hours of labor time.
@@karlhopkins713 I'll definitely keep that in mind. Thanks
your audio is great
With wheel spacers you use the same torque spec as the lug nuts and its good practice to put a little bit of blue loctite on the threads to keep the nuts from wanting to back off. It's annoying to torque them because you have to use a pry bar to keep the hub from turning. Big spacers will strain the hubs and make them go bad sooner and stress the lug bolts more. Spacers like this size are fine as long as they are high quality and are hubcentric. Spacers that are not hubcentric should be illegal. Thanks for coming to my ted talk.
It's the bearings that suffer, not the hubs
A lot of modern vehicles use non serviceable hub assemblies and not standard bearing and races. So the term hun is ubiquitous
When I installed my hubcentric wheel spacers, I placed a length of pipe between the front seat frame and brake pedal.
Moving the seat forward will apply the brakes so you can tighten the spacer Nuts.
They don't have to be, I know when I torque spacers like that, I just jam on the brakes by either wedging the pedal down, or a friend, then torque. Also a small spacer like this shouldn't be no harder on the hub bearing than a different offset wheel, its when that are much bigger and or heavier vehicle like them kids in them diesel's with the wheels sticking out past their tow mirrors.
@VikingDudee mine are attached to 16 inch beadlock wheels and 38 inch MT tires. They're very heavy
In the 70’s we used to rebuild calipers on every brake job. This included the piston rebuild on the rear drum brakes at that time But, i have always remove one wheel’s brakes at a time and that explanation you gave of the piston popping out upon depression of another piston is exactly why my father taught us that way. Good video, it is good to see some of the multiple brake caliper design changes that the manufacturers have made. Innovation is good! Purple caliper grease apparently is bad. Thanks for that update too, i think i have a half tube left in my tool cart.
As a prior-service culinary chef watching you clean the grease off of those rotors with greasy fingers, all I could think of was, "NO, you're forgetting about cross-contamination!"
Don't poison your guest rotors...
🤣👍
My thoughts exactly! 🤣 There should be clearly defined HACCP posters on the wall with color coding of said greasy fingers to avoid this cross-contamination! 🤣😂🤣😂
The more Rainman Ray's video's the better this world is.. so yes please..
34:54
That caliper piston too is really smart.
I've done over 100 brake jobs but I'll watch and learn and enjoy You and Lauren.
Yes we’d like to see it on 2nd channel.👏
Yes Ray please show the rear brake job if approved 😊
yes ray,,show the rear brake job as well please
New mic sounds good when it works...😂😂😂 have yourself a great holiday weekend Ray 👍
That last PSA on not compressing pistons when others are off was overlooked when I did my break job. Good thing I didn't do them all at once.
I did however have to take my water pump off 2 times. First time I folded and ripped the o ring, next I took out a timing cover seal thinking that was the reason, luckily pressed a new one in. but it now appears to be leaking through the bearing because i didn't replace the pump and cheapened out thinking i could get away with a 80 dollar repair... THIS IS HARD MAN
Love coming home from work to a Ray video. Your videos are the perfect wind down to a busy day! Reminds me of sitting in the garage trying to learn everything I can from my dad!
7:50 grew up in New England, now I live in Florida…. Where is this “hill” you speak of because I haven’t seen one since I moved to FL 😂
Hell yes I want to see you do the rears.
Definitely, those need the adapters for the calipers to compress.
@@tomn8tr I have a 2016 Mustang and I had to buy a special tool to rotate the pistons in the rear calipers in order to compress them. Soon I will have to do the brakes all the way around on my 16 Odyssey. Can't wait to see if I will have to buy special tools for that job.
@@Doodler-JL It is such great fun to buy a new/used vehicle to find out what SSTs are required to do a simple job on any other vehicle
Great audio and as for comments on background noises from this viewer I don't mind that either Thank you, Ray! I enjoy watching South Main Auto now and you and Eric O with the Can/music is always my favorite.
A new project for Ray! Add terminals that are accessible from the side of the tool box so you don't need to climb into the bed, open the box then open the other box just to connect the jumper cables. Just flip open a cover on the side of the tool box and connect the jumpers there!
😂😂came to say exactly that
He's got a lock on the tool box. I doubt he wants someone touching a wrench to his two exposed terminals. Similar reason I don't leave my winch connected.
@jasonemeric9902 it switches on and off from the cab, your comment is mute
@@scottwilliams1976 oh. Indeed it is lol
@@scottwilliams1976 and btw... If u r gonna be like that... it's "moot", not "mute"
Consider a capacitor jump box…no batteries …no precharge needed. Hook to most any battery as long as it has voltage (different units have different requirements for how much voltage ). Then once it reaches full charge (3 minutes or less). It varies on different units and charge voltage of battery you are hooked to which can be on another car if needed. …keen 6000A Super Capacitor Battery-Less Portable Jump Starter for 12V Car, Built-in 6 * 3000F Supercapacitor, No Pre-Charging Need, Extremely Safe, Always Ready Jump Start All 12V Car. All different price points but might want to check into it.
"Warped Rotors" have been a pet peeve of mine for Decades! Thank you for mentioning the real cause. It won't change the unwashed masses, but it made my day!
You must have watched a different video than the rest of us...
Ray gave you three scenarios all of them being a variation of the same symptom.
He gave you 3 results but he never gave you the root cause as to why rotors warp in the first place, 6:55 Ray: we either have surface thickness variation in the rotors that's where the rotor is a little thicker in spots... 7:17 Ray: The other way the rotor is warped and weevly-wobbly round.
7:19 Ray : The majority of vibrations is caused by issues with the surface and thickness of said surfaces...
I will just say, rotors primarily warp because of excessive and constant heat that reach 900 degrees or beyond
The reason why they warp can vary from literally anything to excessive or hard braking, bad factory casting and machining, wrong type of brake pads ceramic / metallic, cheap after market rotors, partially or fully seized caliper pistons, fully or partially seized sliders, contaminants on pads, bad wheel bearings, a build up of brake dust, mud, sand, rust build up when vehicles are left parked outside for longer periods, people who drive with two feet, uneven caliper piston pressure, aftermarket calipers, constant driving/braking in heavy traffic, poor ventilation and heat entrapment caused by wrong wheels or in this case fancy caliper covers that can trap heat. When a brake pedal pulses under your foot, this is a strong indicator of a warped rotor. We the unwashed know rotors warp and why they warp, its not rocket science
It's also no secret that vehicles that do a lot of hi-way driving get longer brake pad / rotor life.
"Mines Warped! Why do I always get the Warped one!" - William J. Le Petomane
@@IR-nq4qv "Warp" as a generic term is my beef. I've installed Baer, Wilwood, Hawk and Performance Friction among others, and If I don't trust the owner to do a proper bed-in, I'll do it or else the rotors will be trashed, Not by warping, but by metallurgical changes and invariably it's not run out (i.e. warpage) that is the problem, it's varying thickness. The biggest culprit I've encountered is a clueless owner with new HP brakes doing a 120mph--Zero stop on the anti-lock AND THEN standing on the pedal at a dead stop!!! One time is enough to destroy a couple thou worth of hardware! If you doubt me, try it yourself.
I also worked for ABEX when I was still in college and we had a 1 ton pickup that ran around with a bed full of steel just to replicate real world abuse. And, no, Actual warping isn't an issue with any but the cheapest Chinese rotors.
Warp Rotor sounds like the name of a rock and roll band.🎵
@@ManBearPig3 No one can definitively answer that query from where they are sitting.
For any inquiring mind...Pads and rotors are made and meant to wear out, none are built to last. Alternatives., always use OEM warranty parts or top performance slotted / vented rotors and dual piston calipers. Change brake pads anytime they become glazed or exceed 65% of total wear to ensure proper stopping and maintain even rotor wear.
All cars can be identical or comparable with the exact same brake materials set up.
The only factors that can cause shorter brake life are driving conditions and driver habits with the caveat, conditions or habits don't necessarily have to be good or bad.
Moon caps too I like the baby moon caps with the moon rings
Hey Ray nice to see you following up with customer cars and making it better…… love the repeat customer content.
There's enough fur on that front dash cover to make a new dog.
That Mustang definitely needs some love. I noticed a lot of play in the steering wheel as well. Hopefully the owner wants to see a rear brake video as well! (At their expense of course, hehe)
Hi Ray, just a note for you, when you install wheel spacers you should cut the original studs so they are flush with the spacer's surface... if you dont, the spacer will not seat properly and might give you that shake.
I see what you mean
The wheels could be resting on the studs and not on the whole spacer
@@DaveBigDawg In some cases yes, but those Mustang wheels have pockets in them so the studs won't hit. I've never liked spacers, they just add an extra point of failure.
Love your videos entertaining and informative. I have worked on cars my entire life and I am 63. You explain things that the uninformed can understand.also when you make a mistake you admit to it.
I miss Corvette rally rings and caps on steel rims. Still see them out sometimes 😊
21:00 Audio is excellent.
Thumbs Up for the new audio!!!!!
Always a good idea to check level of fluid in the Reservoir or open bleeder and drain caliper fluid out of caliper to prevent pushing reservoir lid off and leaking fluid into engine bay
Audio is spot on ray! Sounds great!
Great audio....just remember to take it off for private conversations or bathroom breaks.
Volume is good Ray, thanks for the sound effects on the brake cleaner
On the new slide pin lube, you're willing to do research learn and change if you find something better. Not all people are like that. Good job Ray, yall have a great weekend!
Oh, memories!
'Warped Rotors with Scant Friction-Material (but a hundred-fifty miles to go' " was the name of the rocksteady/soul ensemble I was with back in the eighties.
Good morning Ray heads, have a great day
When the air compressors on it sounds like a fighter jet outside it's not loud but that's what it sounds like ray
Just an observation. I was taught many years ago that the caliper should not be pushed back without opening the bleeder screw first. Then it just pushes out the old fluid and nothing is being pushed back into the system. I have always done it this way and still bleed the system with new fluid. It also eliminates any system flushes. I never see anyone doing it this way, but works for me for he past 50 years. Thank you for your videos, so enjoy watching and still learning.
Not a bad way. Some avoid doing that because it avoids possibly breaking off the bleeder, especially on old rusty cars. And It just takes longer
I've been doing that forever
I just take the lid off the reservoir as it does increase the fluid level in it.
I like doing it in my own car just to keep that bleeder moving around
You should also mention the people they shouldn't add brake fluid to their master cylinder because that's a good recommendation to see how your brakes are. The lower the fluid means of left pads that you have on your brakes. That way when you squeeze the Pistons back in the caliper it fills a reservoir back up
ty for the great consistent content.
Just keep doing whatever works for you... I feel like that's how it should be done. There's a hype today for gadgets and knickknacks, which (some of 'em) have good use, but the old fashioned way hasn't actually gone bad or stopped working, and it even feels more personal, for the effort you put in as to get it to work
The electrons in a jump box are old, but electrons in a cable are fresh from the alternator. Everyone knows that.
Well, with very rare exceptions, all of the electrons are billions of years old.
@@MonkeyJedi99 But a lot get exited to meet you!
@@MonkeyJedi99 Not to a certain type of Christian, they're not!
I do my own mechanic work and enjoy watching videos on TH-cam when I get stuck
Yay a Ray video!
I would like to see you mention locating the slider pin head flats with the caliper housing that prevents them spinning. As DIY ers may be watching.
I always take a wire brush to the mount before I put shims on due to rust. They fit better
Definately in the rust belt. Eric O sandblasts em.
Each brake job brings something new, wheel spacers, stuck rotors, squealer devices, slide pins. etc. we learn from them all. so they are NOT boring!
They are correct. That purple does seize the slide pins. I know this from doing my own. Good ole school axle or bearing grease hasn't failed in 60 years.
Even the purple stuff beats what a lot of people use for driveway jobs... which is nothing at all.
I was taught, years ago, that Syl-Glide was a good lube. However, I have found over the years that Syl-Glide eventually coagulates and makes the calipers stick. I use the CRC like Ray uses nowadays. Also, I never grease the backs of the pads. If anything, I use NAPA Disc Brake Quiet. You spray it on the backs and you'll never have disc brake squeal. Mostly with ceramic pads.
@@robertsheriff6118 I have never understood the need to grease the backs of the pads. The piston does not move around on the pad so no need to have a low friction surface and all the grease will do is attract brake dust and road grime. However I am not a mechanic by trade, just a retired farmer that serviced his own vehicles.
Same goes for the pinion gear shaft on starter motors. Never grease the spiral gear as the grease will harden and attract any crap that gets up in the bell housing causing it to stick.
@@MonkeyJedi99 Too true .
@@ecclesmilligan8712 Exactly!
Yes, do the rear brakes. I work on an 05 for a family member sometimes.
95 in Florida is like 115 in drier climates!
Hot spots in the rotors have a different coefficient of friction that can also cause pulsing.
Worn pads and hot rotors!
Mic is working great!
As we say amongst my friends, "It's not the heat, it's the stupidity... I mean humidity."
@@MonkeyJedi99 I think you got it in the first part of your' quote'🤣
Audio is good!! Videos are great!!😊
Wheel spacers = Always a BAD idea!
Not to mention the obvious issues, but the offset increases the cantilever load on the wheel bearing / hub....and causes early failures !
You are absolutely right !!!
Yes they are--Bad on Wheel Bearings, I used them in the Roaring 60"s...
So what's the difference on the bearing between spacers and wheels with the same offset as the spacers add?
@@worxcustoms3440 Wheels with a lot of neg offset are bad too. I write service at a GMC dealership, and see it all the time. Spacers and high neg offset, tearing up hubs.
Those are factory GT wheels with 6 cylinder spinners. Offsets are there to accommodate the phony caliper covers
yes on the rear brakes
The first time you walked away from the camera your voice faded but the second time it worked great for your volume
yes I love watching you just for the fun and makes me happy all day you need to make a reality show
Spinners, hah! I'm from the baby moon club... LOL
Opening the bleeder empty’s all that old fluid instead of sending it back but that’s me I don’t have the energy to go get a camera but the mic works great 👍 keep the videos up
Ray's truck doesn't need an odometer, it needs an hour meter.
That’s a good idea my 2004 Silverado actually has an hour meter. I agree with you that is funny
It has one, built into the odometer display.
21:03 the sound is good, I heard no issues. I was a sound man back in the day before digital sound boards.
I'm sure you know by now. . . . . Your experiment with The Mic Failed!!🤣
Thanks for the update on your selection of slide pin lube. I have a nearly full container of the Permatex purple goop that I used once on my car, I purchased the stuff because I saw you using it. At 24:10 when you walked to the passengers side your audio dropped out.
Oh, those fake caliper covers. Classic RICE.
North American rice?
@@notbanksy8294 Must be Uncle Ben's rice ... (Giving my age away a bit there)
Alex your a lucky guy now I have to come from ontario Canada to see the ragon museum
Thats ford for ya
For remembering to torque the lug nuts and whatever-else, MY trick has always been to leave one obviously backed-out or even 'entirely off'. I'd have to miss the whole nut being elsewhere/out at the end of its lug/on an actual wheel-lug or something 'odd' so there's no question that I need to attend to them more before closing up.
I don't believe your microphone is actually working properly. If you have it plugged into your camera, it may not be selected as the default microphone. When you walked away from the camera, we lost the volume on your voice. If it was working we wouldn't have noticed a change in volume.
Edit: Re-watching that section of the video, I also noticed that the tone of your voice changed as you angled the camera towards you more just before you walked away.
The new mic picks up all the background noise. Too much sound. Yes. Rear brakes are a must see video. Thank you 😊
24:08 No we can not hear you when you walked way over there. Did you think it would sound like you were wearing it? To much background white noise.
Noticed that too
Have yourself a great day ray! Dave Birmingham England
Red thread locker should be applied to the wheel studs when using spacers and anti seize applied in between the spacer and rotor because the two dissimilar metals can corrode and bond the two making disassembly extremely difficult especially in the northern states.
TOPDC Quick Connect Plug Jumper Cables,1 Gauge 30 Feet 800A Booster Cables with UL-Listed Clamps, Heavy Duty Automotive Booster Jumper Cables for Car, SUV and Trucks with Carry Bag(TD-S02P0130)
With all the electronics in your truck and your decision to forgo jump boxes in the future maybe try this quick connect jumper cable system going forward.
Whether in the back box or under the hood accessed through the grill, this is something you can mount where you don’t have to open anything. Just plug in
Sounds GR8 - Loud And Clear - Not Hard Hearing You/(Understanding What Your Saying)
Yes, do the back brakes 😊😊
Ray the pad with the dowel tingy should be on the outer side of the rotor. Caliper piston will hit it and offset damage.
I can only imagine all the people that you have helped.
You put on a great class all the time
Ty
You should get a quick connect for your jumper cables and mount it to your desil battery box for as much as you use it.
You can also have someone step on the brake while you torque the wheel spacer. Provided that you don't have them disassembled like in the video.
Those look like the correct wheels for the 05-09 Mustangs. One style for those years anyway.
AUDIO 10/10 Always clear////Always
Good morning ray, another great video im saving it for my grand son to watch.
Thanks for the good videos to help me when I am sick 😢
Thank you dude !! I just ordered my new brake caliper compression tool. No more C-clamps for me !! Keep showing us your cool tools. I've been upgrading my stuff as I see new tools being used. Im almost 60 and still use tools my grandpa was using. But thanks to YT I'm learning all kinds of new things. Thanks again Ray !
Best to compress the caliper while it’s still on the rotor IMO
Pretty sure I heard that about the purple stuff from Flat Rate Master but he basically said not to use it on Southern cars. Northern cars get brake jobs early due to rust jacking so it gets renewed before it can gum up.
WOW IT'S 7 PM IN ARIZONA, AND I FINALLY GOT TO SEE YOUR VIDEO, HAD A HECTIC DAY, DIDN'T EVEN GET MY MORNING COFFEE, BUT I WOULDN'T MISS YOUR SHOW RAY,😅 SEE YOU IN THE MORNING 😅
Yes on the rear brake video
To do analysis around engine compartment you can look up ear cleaners. They hook to phone but it is smaller than your engine camera probes you have.
Hi, the new mic has a slightly deeper tone to my ears, I like it.
when i can i compress the caliper with a screwdrive or prydriver before unbolting just pry back inner pad saves time also c-clap vicegrips on inboard with the old pad and that works very well also never felt the need to buy exspenive tool like that to do this job..but it just makes you look better in the eyes of some customers
Done lots of my own and family's brakes but always open to learn others methods, thanks Ray
I remember when I bought my mechanic special 2003 dodge ram 1500 with mismatch pads all the way around and very warped rotors . I replaced them with cross drilled slotted rotors and no warping and no dust build up . Only bad is you can’t have them turned!
Audio is wonderful!!!!! The rear breaks will be nice to watch. Ray keep up the good work. "GO TEAM RAY"