TECH TIPS: How to Install Floor Panels In Your International Scout!

It's Tech Tip Time!
Needing to replace/repair your floor panels on your International Scout? Join Larry as he highlights and shows you how to replace your floor panels in this weeks Anything Scout Tech Tip!
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[@Arkavian1191]

Just wanted to say thanks for the tech videos, especially this one. I'm about to start my own restoration project and the floor is one of the things I will have to tackle on one side. This video made me confident that I'll be able to do it with less anxiety about messing things up.

[@ebifurai415]

So helpful!! Do you think you would make the wedge and cab mount replacement video soon? I just purchased an HD wedge and I’m going to be installing soon

[@crisnevin7934]

That cab mount video will be very helpful! Can't wait!

[@kpsdpm]

Perfect timing for me! Thanks so much and really helped answer some of the questions and uncertainty I have had. Very helpful and feeling much more confident.

[@djdemiter]

I have a 79 traveler in the same color, completely stock, Rallye package. I love that it still retains its "IH-ness"! Great job with this, travelers finally getting some love.

[@kenny3217]

This is almost exactly how I did it but I wish I had realized that you need to leave some of the floor pan to weld to. My dog legs, rockers, and kick panels were completely rusted out so I had no reference point when I did the drivers side. Great video, just 2 months too late to save me =(

[@anythingscout]

ahhh! sorry we couldn't get it out to you earlier! thanks for checking it out and let us know if you have anymore questions or videos you'd like to see as your project progresses!

[@guidovogelsang6239]

Thanks for Video, I do the same on my '62 Scout at the moment 🥴

[@anythingscout]

of course! thanks for checking it out!

[@aggieclimber]

I plan to replace both fronts and the rear pans. Is bracing necessary for the process. I've wondered if removing the roof would assist me with installing the rear pan. Maybe I should leave the roof to maintain body rigidity during the process.

[@aggieclimber]

Thanks again for another very informative video. I wonder what the philosophy is on when it is appropriate or necessary to use bracing before removing floor pans. I have heard some say if you're removing a single front floor pan no bracing is required. However, if you're removing the entire rear panel of a scout ii some sort of bracing is required. Additionally, if when removing the rear floor pan I leave the top installed will that serve as enough of a brace to avoid body shifting once the old pan is removed?
Would someone at Anything Scout mind weighing in on the subject? I have plans to begin the process of replacing both front and the rear pans.

[@ebifurai415]

curious how this went for you and if you ended up bracing or not! I've heard that to keep structure having the top on and the body on the frame helps a ton. I'm still going to take my door off and weld up a brace for mine because it can't hurt.

[@aggieclimber]

My ultimate plan was to replace all three floor pans. I started with the rear pan. So, I braced all three door openings. And since none of the videos I'd seen show the process being performed WITH the top intact I removed it. The only thing I would do differently next time is NOT install the rear pan in two sections. As shipped the full rear pan will not install without some sort of manipulation. It won't fit in place without catching on the side walls or rails. I chose to rip it down the middle (front to back with a plasma cutter then weld it back during the rosette weld phase. This seems to have worked fine and it made working with two smaller pieces easier (I didn't have a helper). But extra time was required welding back the rip cut. Later, I found out from Anything Scout that they typically cut a small slit in the middle of the front and back lips. Apparently, this allows the panel to be bowed enough to be installed in one piece. I'm sure this method requires more than one person. But who knows I am but a weekend warrior at best. Hope this helps. Good luck.

[@Aciecarter238]

Do you all use kbs rust seal kit on the floors an underneath. That's what I'm thinking about doing the whole rear an front an axles, frame

[@tysonlarson7412]

No, they use Rust Bullet which is a similar product to KBS.

[@ernestoamaro4184]

What is the width of the replacement panel? Will it go all the way to the seen by the transmission?

[@kenny3217]

No, you need about 1/8-1/4" of the original floor panel to butt weld it to. I learned this lesson the hard way, I cut all the way to the center section and butt welded the drivers side floor to the center floor section. This left the built in lip about 1/2" too far inboard which I didnt realize until I did the passenger side the correct way. I ended up having to hammer the built in lip flat and cut a new 14 gauge 1/2" strip and weld it to the end to make a new lip. The final product is plenty solid but it took a lot more work to get there.

[@schwallman]

If leaving an inch or so of the old floor, does the replacement floor panel need the same amount cut off?

[@ebifurai415]

@@schwallman i'm going to use weldable primer and lap weld mine overtop of the old floor. depends on how badly your floor is rusted

[@LarsSveen]

Does anyone sell those door braces or do I have to make some myself?

[@ebifurai415]

def a fab some yourself situation