How to metal finish a butt weld: Scout 800 Fender
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ต.ค. 2021
- www.proshaper.com
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How to metal finish a butt weld: Scout 800 Fender
Now that the Scout 800 Fender patch has been welded in, It's time to finish the metal using several techniques. Applying a marker to the patch panel Wray then uses the shrinking disc to see the high and low spots. Wray then dresses the weld using a slapper and dolly along with his body hammer for the flange. Wray then likes to use a sanding block as well as an orbital sander to really see any minor imperfections. Remember Wray wants this panel to look like it just came off the factory floor. Once all the high and low spots have been addressed with the shrinking disc along with the hammer and dolly, Wray give the panel a thorough check and applies a black spray paint to show how it looks.
Email: Wray@Proshaper.com
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Your videos are SOOOO educational. You start at kindergarten and proceed to the masters degree level on every project with all of the explanation required to complete a task!!
Thanks!
Hey Wray; "metal is clay". You're certainly a master at clay modelling, with a slapper & dolly. Ha, ha.
Yes Wray! You took up my Ink pen recommendation. Hope you like it.
Works awesome! Thanks!
we all know what those pens are really for - or some of us do
Kudos for using Norton disks. Made local, buy local!
Wray I've know you for 12 years and have seen almost all of your videos right from the beginning. This is one of your best videos to date. You and Mark got the lighting just right to see the low/high spots and the footprints. Great video!
Thanks! Bill.
Great work sir. Thank you for the great lessons
Watching as fast as I can!!
Thank you for all of your videos.
I’ve learned so much from them.🙏
That Makita grinder is the real deal. I probably have over a million miles on mine, grinder usage wise. Thanks Wray.
Hi Wray, We are working on the sheet metal of our 1916 Willy’s Overland and have greatly appreciated your excellent videos. We are in South Australia so we are unlikely to be able to meet you in person but your detail and comprehensive explanations have been a great help. Thanks John Magarey
Every time you post 7500 members in the “international scout owners” Facebook group see your videos so keep the scouts coming !
What would they like to see? I have 2 and half 1966/67 800s and two Scout 11s and a 1977 Scout Traveler.
Excellent video. Lots of detailed information. As for "Oh it's just a Scout, it's not worth this much attention" Anything worth doing is worth doing well. This is the problem with many businesses. When your focus is 100% on squeezing every penny of profit out of something quality is one of the first things sacrificed to the bottom line. There's nothing wrong with profit, it only becomes a problem when it is the sole objective.
Amazing metal work, True Craftsmanship , it is great to see this level of metal work is alive and being taught. Thankfully the restoration and Hot Rod groups are stronger than ever and many want this level of quality because the sad and real part is an incredible small percentage of people can not appreciate this level of skill, amount of work required and outcome. Most people driving around do not know the difference between this and a rust hole stuffed with newspaper filled with Bondo. I have done body work definitely not a qualified body man, I don’t have enough fingers to count how many times I have seen cars repaired driving around that have two different tones of paint or large or uneven panel gaps and highs and lows yet the owner is happy having no idea, they just think it looks so good, they fixed it just like new.
I like your patience & persistence to get it perfect to the point that high build primer will be the only filler. Tbh, I'm not sure that 1/16" of filler is the worst thing but I'm super particular/patient so thanks for feeding into that:). Just saw your shrinking disk on another channel & will have to get one. Subscribed.
I've had more good memories and fun in Scouts than any other 4x4. Very good on gas and would climb like a goat. Not too good on the freeways though. I really like the way you don't use Bondo. I bought a Scout once with a newspaper and a screen holding Bondo on the fender.
Glad to see regular videos being posted again. I always enjoy your content and learn a lot
I learn stuff from every video you post. Keep 'em coming!
Great to have these videos back again, the quality of the craftsmanship taught is second to none. Thank you for making them.
Greetings from Poland. Excellent job Sir!
A voice from the Past!!
An outstanding teaching session as is customary for you.
Having a bit of a heart problem, but after they crack me open and fix the problem, I am hoping to rejoin you in Charlton to learn how to use that shrinking disk.
Hope you are in the best of health.
Walter Luikey
Hi Walter, wish you the best of luck hope to see you soon.
i loved this video any body man or restoration shop would benefit from watching these videos thank you for making them
Excellent communicator/teacher
When I build and blueprint a race engine, with the exception of spark plug gap and valve lash, EVERYTHING is measured to plus or minus .0001" that's 1 ten thousandths of a inch. I'm still in awe and total respect and admiration for metal work such as this. Incredible Sir !!
Engine rebuilding is all about correct measurement and being totally honest with the measurements. High quality collector car sheet metal work is very similar, you have to measure everything precisely. Thanks for watching!
I always enjoy listening to the commentary. I was taught the pick and file method. We used a bullseye pick with a not-so-pointy tip and a 9" grinder with 80 grit on it as our file. It made quick work of low spots, that's for sure.
Nice to see you wray. In your class with the student that wanted to make the dog on the power hammer during covid. :) Was making motos for jessie. Now im working on miura bodywork.
Very informative video. You sir are an excellent teacher!
I have been scouring youtube looking for instruction on doing this repair on my scout fenders and quarters. The only difference is my patches may need to go up higher and into the body line. I am not sure how to go about recreating that fading line. I am really glad I found your channel. I will definitely learn a lot here and hopefully find a solution for my body lines. I will watch the rest of your videos for sure. Thank you Wray. Liked and subscribed.
Thank you Wray
Thank you very much for the education. You are a great teacher and make things very simple, I really appreciate your videos.
Thanks! I try my best.
When I worked in the Mustang plant, the bodyshop guys used triangular stones 1x1x1x10 to check the panels for defects, before going to e-coat and paint.
Good one Wray!
Thank You Master Bodyworker 👍🏼💀😎
I think the scout rebuild is what the majority of people actually do where as the caddy is what they want to do being the same age as you i hope we both live long enough to see the scout.on the road too many projects at the same time like me
I enjoy the process as much as the finished project.
Excellent! Thanks Wray... always learn something new.
Thank you! Priceless info.
Thanks for the excellent video Wray very helpful.
Thank you for another informative video! Can't wait to work on my own project :)
Btw. A tip using that ink. When I want to just tickle a small area with the shrinking disc. I paint a little of that Molotow cocktail ink on the shrinking disc itself, instead of the panel. Saves clean up. Just provides the lubricant instead.
Great video, I’m learning a lot. Thank you so much !!!
After watching you for the past year I have learned that I have been using the dolly and hammer completely backwards for over 40 years. I’ve been hammering the highs down and using the dolly as a backer.
If you get that unmistakable “tink” sound of hitting the dolly with the gammer you are stretching which will raise the metal, not lower it. you’ve been stretching. Dolly goes on an adjacent low so the low comes up and the high comes down. I find the slapper works much better than a hammer.
@@sblack48 i’ve always put the dolly on the lows around the highs in order to push the highs down. I try to use a dolly with less curve ( slightly flatter ) than the fender so it acts like a bridge across the lows. Pretty much the same process as straightening large steel bars in a press.
@@danfarris135 removal of dents - off-dolly: dolly under the low, slapper around and across the highs. stretching in order to bring up a low spot (what wray was doing here) is on-dolly, you hear the contact. but whether you raise or lower the metal is always relative to where your datum is. you can over stretch and oil can a panel, or you can end up making more lows. it's really trial & error.
Wow great skills
I thought my shrinking disc was out of whack but yours is worse, ha ha. Time for me to pay you a visit,
been a long time since you were in Stafford CT.
Hi Ernie!
Wray I want to thank you for your videos, I like the way you take the time to explain things I look forward to learning how to metal finish and also tig weld. I have a Eastwood tig 200 and a bunch of Martin hammers and dollies also so from dagger tools. I also took Ken Sakamoto’s metal finishing class. And would like to take yours but I’m in California
Nice 👍 I’m learning more and more with each video and considering a class as well!
I’m following tour plans right now for the wooden slapper right now, thanks 🙏🏻
Very tidy.
🙋🏼♂️boa noite irmãos 👍🏻🇧🇷
Very good information and like your disc for building heat in panels I have questions can you use torch to heat panel and I have used 80 grit grinding disc to do same thing. I had a friend teach me how to remove hail dents in top of cars with torch and damp rag along with file worked great thank you
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@Wray Schelin. Good morning from NY. Really enjoying and learning a lot from your videos! I'm definitely one of those people that thought you needed to spend a lot on tools and workspace is also a concern but your videos go a loooong was towards dispelling those thoughts. I would really like to see you continue on the go cart and I have a question - once you finish the skin how do you address the inner bracing? Thanks again for what you've done so far and best of luck with the channel!
I’ve been watching paintless dent removal (PDR) videos too and I think some the techniques they use could be applied to your work. You might want to try a PDR fade or line light or use PDR reflector board to see the highs and lows. If nothing else, it might be good for demonstration purposes for these videos.
Hi Stephen, yes, one of my TH-cam viewers sent me a light and it does work, but I do like the techniques of using your hand to feel and a low angle look to find surface flaws. Once you perfect your techniques primer is all that is needed. There are several techniques you can use they all work well to insure a perfect surface.
Wonderful metalwork education! I wonder what it would cost to scan a good OEM fender and CNC a set of dies to stamp new Scout fenders?
Nice Video.
#STAYSAFE
#PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸
👍👏👏
What is the significance / benefit of the foam pad on the angle grinder when you switch to 120-grit? Is it just the convenience of the hook and loop attachment, or is it something to do with the flex of the backing? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. Another great video!
The foam pad provides a soft grind. A hard disc will tend to dig in.
Is the slapper stretching the metal with each strike?
Thanks for the video Wray. What brand is the dolly you are using the most, or is it self made just as the other one you had in the video?
I think it was a Herbrand. I call it the Bar of Soap. I have made several copies of it. The original one I have now has a slope on one end which is an excellent very useful feature. I think it is the dolly you will need on most smoothing situations. Next video I'll show it in detail.
Wray. Shrinking disc question. Do these big flat shrinking discs work on flat panels? Does the round nut not rub on the panel in that case?
I bought a small one for my small grinder here in the U.K. it definitely works. But I’m interested in a bigger one, as I can see the potential benefits of the bridging high spots effect of a larger disc.
I use the my 9" disc 90% of the time. I use the 5" disc in tight areas. I'm am the originator of the smooth and safe edge shrinking discs. I have been making and selling them for over 20 years. www.proshaper.com
Is working with aluminum the same procedure?
Yes.
Is it possible to mig weld the butt joint and get the same result? Thanks
Good question. Yes and no. There are very accomplished mig welders that maybe can get similar results to a tig. The issue is to step up and buy a tig welder and try it once you do you will fully understand how well you can weld with a tig. Tig welders used to be very expensive not anymore.
where do we find the coverall markers? in your amazon store?
We tried getting them in our Amazon store- no luck so far. Try Blick Art Supplies.
Hi Wray. I got your shrinking disc. I’ve been working on a fender with a large flat area. I welded up the marker light and caused excessive warping. Up to 3/8”. Rough hammered it out. Used your slapped technique to get the lows up. I get it as close as I can with slapper and dolly and then hit it with the shrinking disc. It ends up making it worse. Ive got a lot of hours trying to get it right but I’m not gaining much. I’m not sure if it’s the excessive warping or the larger flat area. Any advice?
I only use the shrinking disc for the last 1/16"of smoothing,, anything over that use the torch. The torch does the large part of the job, the shrinking disc is for perfecting that last 5%. I have several shrinking disc videos. Maybe watch them again.
@@proshaper yeah im having a hard time getting it straight enough with the slapper and dolly so maybe some heat shrinking is the answer. I’ll certainly rewatch your videos. I have your DVD too I’ve been wanting to watch again. Thanks Wray. I appreciate your time and look forward to making it to one of your classes one of these days.
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Me 2 mins in: Just skim coat it and be done. Im not a fan of using filler but...