so.... if the current stays at .160~ then there is a short somewhere in the car? if it drops .01-.02 then all is fine, and if the battery is discharging through an internal short circuit then the current will stay high with the terminal leads disconnected? is that right? hahaahahahahahaa been a long day hahaaha ;)
So you're trying to make sure that the battery terminals are still connected to the post which makes sense to me but however you're afraid to lose 12 volts to awaken the modules by disconnecting the fuses you're disconnected 12 volts anyway from the modules and there are many modules on one fuse line anyway even though you said not that you see him but the ECM could be the problem LCM TCM BCM ECU so I don't understand the method being effective
So by disconnecting the fuse you're disconnecting the 12 volts it's the same as disconnecting the battery which is 12 volts what's the difference you could see the which one you lose the current from when you take away the fuse but many modules are connected and systems are connected to one fuse I've seen this technique by my coworkers and I never agreed with it
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@@johncharleson8733 MILLIONS of cars on the road that this will work just fine on. For newer cars you can leave the wires connected and use a DC A clamp meter.
Brother, ignore any/all 'negative' comments or 'thumbs down' for this video. Your CLEAR and CONCISE delivery, plus SIMPLE troubleshooting techniques for parasitic battery drain issues should be a master template/model for all other instructional/tutorial online guides. Short and sweat. Well done, sir!
I've watched several of these videos - you're the only one to properly describe the value of milliamps on a meter. i.e. if the meter reads "0.25" - you note that is 250 milliamps (correct) while most other vids describe that as, "25 milliamps." Glad you noted that very often the leakage is bad alternator electronics.
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I SOOOOO agree with with the comments on your being clear and concise . I had been watching video after video on this matter and you were the one that clicked. i watched a few after yours and could actually understand them too. a breath of fresh air. I found my draw an ICP/DIC. Now up to this point I search on for what next. Wish you were here buddy.
Love your delivery sir. Thank you for slowly explaining this process for someone frustrated by the vehicle always draining down. For nearly 2 months I was disconnecting the battery overnight to avoid the drain. Your video helped me find a light bulb that was activated while the car was off causing the drain. The bulb socket had a short keeping it from disengaging when the door was closed. Something so easy I couldn't have found without this explanation. Thank you sir I am now a subscriber.
@@David.lovesU Couldn't find it there. So I knew the power I ran to an amp had to be it. Found the draw on a pinched wire with a single strand grounding.
So I was a little confused, but I get it now. I think it would be a good idea to show this on a car that has a battery draining issue and give a demonstration. So basically, if you have a car that has this issue, when you put the reader on there the numbers won't ever drop. So by removing the fuses you are waiting to find the one that drops the meter because that is the one that is causing it to drain.
Going to have to do this, this weekend. Took a few days off and my battery wouldn’t start my car. I’m hoping it’s something minor and not too expensive thanks for the info!
I just came across this video and I’m having this issue for 2 days now. Talk about opportune. Thanks for your quick video. Straight and to the point. Thanks.
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I'm thanking you big time. This is simple and it sure like simple, cause in not mechanic but can't afford anyone to fix anything. Thanks again and hope you best luck in channel. Its nice when videos get to problem and shower how to fix. Not show there dog then talk about problem and then address there opinions about everything then never even show how to fix anything. Great video.
Solid info on parasitic drain. The only thing I think you missed was you should use a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to the negative contact to avoid rebooting all the pcm's and ecm's and having to wait up too 30+ seconds on some vehicles. When you are ready to test just hook you're meter up and then remove one end of the jumper wire.
Hi there. I added an annotation to the video. If you allow the vehicle to idle a few minutes with the A/C off, and touch nothing after reconnecting the NEG cable, the computer will re-learn the settings. Thanks For Watching!
You're a genius. Your video is simple and right to the point. Not like many of others videos that they just brag about how knowledgeable they are and ended up confusing regular people like me. Thanks
We found the drain! It was a bad passenger door lock actuator. It hasn’t worked since we got the car, but the drain started 4 days ago. Replaced it and BOOM! Done. Didn’t have time to make a video on this one but thanks for your help.😀
Thank you so much. 😀 Be sure to watch my newer video below on this subject, rate thumbs up, and share the video link. th-cam.com/video/xBVmbYBxMyo/w-d-xo.html
With the help of my electrician friend we were able to identify a 2.0 constant drain on my Kia Sedona 2012. Removing a 7.5 amp. This resolved the constant draining on my battery. Not sure exactly is causing a constant drain but thank for your help.
@@electronicsNmore my car battery has 12.6 v reading. But the magic eye shows white colour which indicates needs charging. So, what would be the next step to turn the magic eye to green colour?? How important is the magic eye white colour versus the voltage reading 12.6 v??
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Haven't seen this in awhile, but older cars had a glove box light that was fused but wired so it could come on without the ignition being on. Also a SAAB I owned had a boot (hatchback) light that could get switched on and you would never know it. In the odd but true category... I worked on a car that had a fuse link between the alternator and the battery, it was a 70's Honda I recall. The link was corroded, not sure the alloy it was made from but that actually became a diode and blocked the charging current. That poor Honda was running a total loss electrical system and a new alternator did not fix the problem. All that was required to remedy that problem was a new fuse block and link element. Great tips as usual, thanks for your videos
Thank you Scott! Be sure to also watch today's video on parasitic drain, especially if you have a late model car. th-cam.com/video/xBVmbYBxMyo/w-d-xo.html
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This will definitely help. 👍🏼 Because I am tired of my battery draining, and the cutest of diagnostics is getting very expensive. I just ordered a voltmeter to see if I can find it what's draining the battery
Great video. The only one I've seen that goes as far as to say the parasitic draw maybe your alternator, and be sure and just connect it to to look for the drop and amps.. great video
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Another thing to do is to, gently touch the loose cable to the post and look and listen for a very small spark. I enjoy your videos because you are very thorough without being overly technical. I hope I get some likes on this statement because it is very important and some may not realize it. thnx
Hi David, I have z4 new battery replace install it sparks like a little burning mark after negative terminal touch the negative post. Is German car like that whereas Japanese car it feels save connecting it.
Love your video I found it very helpful. I’d like to point out a few things though. An older truck like my 2000 doesn’t have a sleep mode and the bower block fuse under the hood will give you a zero reading on the digital multimeter. That was easy to figure out but a bit baffling at first. But otherwise I found your video to be clear and concise, thank you so much.
Terse and accurate video. Direct and simple with no unnecessary bloviating. Well done! And kudos to the $5 meter (or free oft times) at Harbor Freight...if it it gets 'fired' at least it wasn't your Fluke.
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Excellent well to the point video, but I should add this is more for older vehicles, if you pull fuses on newer vehicles you're going to wake up modules and start chasing ghosts. The more preferred way is to measure voltage drop across the top of the fuses after you have put the vehicle to sleep.
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Excellent video! Super simple. I am a hobbyist audio electronics guys but I am not super familiar with 12volt systems. This immediately made sense to me and gave me a plan to hunt down my parasitic draw in my Jeep TJ.
Thanks so much for great instructions, clear and easy, i thought i may have that problem on my Kia Sedona 2006 3.8 L but as it turns out after viewing your video i don't have a parasidic draw at all, it goes back where it should after about 60 seconds on 0.02 Cheers Rick.
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@@electronicsNmore my car battery has 12.6 v reading. But the magic eye shows white colour which indicates needs charging. So, what would be the next step to turn the magic eye to green colour?? How important is the magic eye white colour versus the voltage reading 12.6 v??
Thank you very much. The video that you made was extremely informative. You made it sound so simple. I learned something from your video the first time I seen it instead of going back and watch it two or three times. Once again thanks a lot I have subscribed and given a thumbs up.
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@@electronicsNmore my car battery has 12.6 v reading. But the magic eye shows white colour which indicates needs charging. So, what would be the next step to turn the magic eye to green colour?? How important is the magic eye white colour versus the voltage reading 12.6 v??
Man thank you so much for breaking this down in everyday language. I was watching SMA and Eric was using $2000 scan tools and I was wondering if this could be done with a simple multimeter. Excellent video
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Awesome video mate 👍 described everything like it was in a class room . And pin pointed every way possible to find the fault. Wish I watch this 3 months ago I would of pin pointed the problem on my girlfriends Mazda 3
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Great video. Back in the day when we rebuilt starters alternators we had the same problems. Usually it was a diode in the alternator letting power through it draining the battery. With minimal electronics then we just put a master switch in place to stop the problem and still do with heavy equipment.
Always a workaround. :-) Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly share links to my videos on social networking sites. Thank you! th-cam.com/users/electronicsnmoreplaylists
@@electronicsNmore electronicsNmore my car battery has 12.6 v reading. But the magic eye shows white colour which indicates needs charging. So, what would be the next step to turn the magic eye to green colour?? How important is the magic eye white colour versus the voltage reading 12.6 v??
Good tip. I would add that owners should find out if unhooking the battery will cause the engine control computer and transmission control ,to lose their memory. Some newer cars have to be taken to the dealership or garage that have the equipment to re-flash the chip. On some cars/trucks the engine and transmission will act up a bit while relearning. Just a friendly tip. All my best. Bobby
Good point, but usually the only thing that happens when you disconnect the battery, is any saved trouble codes in the computer will be erased. Once the battery is reconnected, you should always allow the car to idle a few minutes with the A/C off without touching the gas pedal. Doing that is important for the computer(To adjust settings). Thanks!
Here is one thing that can happen The security system, if your vehicle has a passive anti-theft system, usually disables the fuel pump and when you change the battery it will need to be reset so that it will recognize the coded chip in your key. Check that procedure in your Owners Manual. It only takes a minute or two to do and you can do it yourself but the procedure is different on different vehicle makes. Check your Owners Manual. There are also some cars that will lose the programming. All my best. Bobby
***** All part of solving the battery draining problem, but nothing that can't be taken care of. I added an annotation to the video when you brought it up. :-) Always refer to the manual.
There is also a I will call it a Tool. You put a 9 volt battery in it and plug it into the cigarette lighter the lighter socket has to be wired straight to the battery,some are not thus the key needs to be on. it keeps the power going to the ECU Though it would interfere with the test.This should only be used for replacing the battery not the test. I hope this helps. :) PS I hate the new cars :) All my best. Bobby
Great video. I did your method and had a current of 13/14A with the car out! I blew my multimeter before having a chance to disconnect the alternator but am going to try that next
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Good tip about checking the alternator as well. For the door switch I use a short flat piece of wood and some c clamps with rubber face so no damage to car. I clamp it on the switch. No need for assistant.
great video. i'm assuming there was no drain on this battery. i would have liked to have seen this done on a battery that had a parasitic drain on it. If there was a drain would the read out numbers been higher than the 0.02? would they be constant or would the numbers drop? If there was numbers, i'm assuming they would go away when you pull the fuse from the circuit that is causing the drain.
More modern cars can be around 50mA, older cars should be closer to 20mA. If the drain is constant, then you'd see the steady load displayed on the meter. Thanks for watching!
very good advice love it plain and simple explanations for ignorants like my self on electronic this guy is good I subscribe to his channels and thumbs up and hi for this channel
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Good clear video, thank you. Just would suggest, however, that it is not wise to wear a watch with a steel strap when working on or near an open electrical source .
I have a habit of wearing my watch. :-). Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to watch the newer video below as well. Thanks Chris! th-cam.com/video/xBVmbYBxMyo/w-d-xo.html
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My NEWEST video on vehicle parasitic drain troubleshooting(For Late Model Cars): th-cam.com/video/xBVmbYBxMyo/w-d-xo.html
electronicsNmore ljj
Ima see if it works on my el camino
so.... if the current stays at .160~ then there is a short somewhere in the car? if it drops .01-.02 then all is fine, and if the battery is discharging through an internal short circuit then the current will stay high with the terminal leads disconnected? is that right? hahaahahahahahaa been a long day hahaaha ;)
So you're trying to make sure that the battery terminals are still connected to the post which makes sense to me but however you're afraid to lose 12 volts to awaken the modules by disconnecting the fuses you're disconnected 12 volts anyway from the modules and there are many modules on one fuse line anyway even though you said not that you see him but the ECM could be the problem LCM TCM BCM ECU so I don't understand the method being effective
So by disconnecting the fuse you're disconnecting the 12 volts it's the same as disconnecting the battery which is 12 volts what's the difference you could see the which one you lose the current from when you take away the fuse but many modules are connected and systems are connected to one fuse I've seen this technique by my coworkers and I never agreed with it
As an electrician for over 50 years troubleshooting automated equipment and a car buff most of my life, ditto to this process. 👍
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This invasive process will not work on CAN-equipped systems or cars with extended ontime modules; in other words, it's relatively obsolete.
@@johncharleson8733 MILLIONS of cars on the road that this will work just fine on. For newer cars you can leave the wires connected and use a DC A clamp meter.
@@electronicsNmore I like your vids. but this one needs to be re-titled. Cheers.
@@johncharleson8733 Nothing to be retitled, the video has helped countless viewers. :-)
Brother, ignore any/all 'negative' comments or 'thumbs down' for this video. Your CLEAR and CONCISE delivery, plus SIMPLE troubleshooting techniques for parasitic battery drain issues should be a master template/model for all other instructional/tutorial online guides. Short and sweat. Well done, sir!
My mechanic did pretty much this whole video up to the fusebox, and then said for further repairs on a 300 Milliamp draw it was gonna be upwards $800
There are 0 dislikes
@@canadianhaitian youtube just erased all the dislikes because thats what they decided would fix their algorithm
It should be called 'How To Damage The Canbus/Computers in your vehicles!!
@@canadianhaitian The dislikes aren't shown. They never are on any videos.
I've watched several of these videos - you're the only one to properly describe the value of milliamps on a meter. i.e. if the meter reads "0.25" - you note that is 250 milliamps (correct) while most other vids describe that as, "25 milliamps." Glad you noted that very often the leakage is bad alternator electronics.
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I SOOOOO agree with with the comments on your being clear and concise . I had been watching video after video on this matter and you were the one that clicked. i watched a few after yours and could actually understand them too. a breath of fresh air. I found my draw an ICP/DIC. Now up to this point I search on for what next. Wish you were here buddy.
Dash cluster. Can't I get one from a wrecking yard?
Love your delivery sir. Thank you for slowly explaining this process for someone frustrated by the vehicle always draining down. For nearly 2 months I was disconnecting the battery overnight to avoid the drain. Your video helped me find a light bulb that was activated while the car was off causing the drain. The bulb socket had a short keeping it from disengaging when the door was closed. Something so easy I couldn't have found without this explanation. Thank you sir I am now a subscriber.
Really good video. To the point and without nonsense and background music.
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I wish everybody would do videos this straightforward and to the point. You just possibly saved me an eternity troubleshooting.
@@danielnooner3726 what ended up being your voltage drop?
@@David.lovesU Couldn't find it there. So I knew the power I ran to an amp had to be it. Found the draw on a pinched wire with a single strand grounding.
@@danielnooner3726 thank you for responding, I'll have to look at my amp wiring also
I wish every instruction video was this good, the world needs more people like you!
Thanks for the nice comment Kody. Check out my newer video below on this subject. Thanks
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So I was a little confused, but I get it now. I think it would be a good idea to show this on a car that has a battery draining issue and give a demonstration. So basically, if you have a car that has this issue, when you put the reader on there the numbers won't ever drop. So by removing the fuses you are waiting to find the one that drops the meter because that is the one that is causing it to drain.
Thank you, I missed that point too. This is what I was hoping to be explained.
So the numbers would be freaking out but if u pull the correct fuse it will drop near 0?
Going to have to do this, this weekend. Took a few days off and my battery wouldn’t start my car. I’m hoping it’s something minor and not too expensive thanks for the info!
This video was made along time a go but is the best video ever from begging to end
Thank you! Be sure to watch my newer video on this subject.
I just came across this video and I’m having this issue for 2 days now. Talk about opportune. Thanks for your quick video. Straight and to the point. Thanks.
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You're welcome! Be sure to look over my "Auto & Mechanical" video playlist below for many other videos of interest to you, and most importantly share my channel with others. Thank you
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Clear, straightforward advice. Right to test without time wasting talk.
Thorough. Easy to understand and replicate.
This is the way all all vehicle related how-to videos should be done.
This is literally the most helpful video I have ever watched on TH-cam. I wish I had watched this before my wife talked me into a new vehicle.
So did you just change the fuse that was causing the spike?
I actually pulled it.
Do you carry her purse? And do honey do lists?
I'm thanking you big time. This is simple and it sure like simple, cause in not mechanic but can't afford anyone to fix anything. Thanks again and hope you best luck in channel. Its nice when videos get to problem and shower how to fix. Not show there dog then talk about problem and then address there opinions about everything then never even show how to fix anything. Great video.
Glad you liked the video! Be sure to watch my newer video on this subject below. Thanks
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Simplest and most straight-to-the-point method I've seen so far. Thank you
Solid info on parasitic drain. The only thing I think you missed was you should use a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal to the negative contact to avoid rebooting all the pcm's and ecm's and having to wait up too 30+ seconds on some vehicles.
When you are ready to test just hook you're meter up and then remove one end of the jumper wire.
Hi there. I added an annotation to the video. If you allow the vehicle to idle a few minutes with the A/C off, and touch nothing after reconnecting the NEG cable, the computer will re-learn the settings. Thanks For Watching!
Usually more than 30 seconds, I've watched some videos showing up to 45min for a full sleep on ford vehicles .
You're a genius. Your video is simple and right to the point. Not like many of others videos that they just brag about how knowledgeable they are and ended up confusing regular people like me. Thanks
Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other great videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share.
So did you just change the fuse that was causing the spike?
We found the drain! It was a bad passenger door lock actuator. It hasn’t worked since we got the car, but the drain started 4 days ago. Replaced it and BOOM! Done. Didn’t have time to make a video on this one but thanks for your help.😀
Great to hear!
hey all... track down the fault...@@electronicsNmore
WOW YOU HAVE EXPLAINED IT PERFECTLY, YOU ARE A TH-cam STAR MY FRIEND
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With the help of my electrician friend we were able to identify a 2.0 constant drain on my Kia Sedona 2012. Removing a 7.5 amp. This resolved the constant draining on my battery. Not sure exactly is causing a constant drain but thank for your help.
I never never never watch the video, someone explaining that well, thank you earned I'm subscribed.
I have many like this. :-) Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore my car battery has 12.6 v reading. But the magic eye shows white colour which indicates needs charging.
So, what would be the next step to turn the magic eye to green colour??
How important is the magic eye white colour versus the voltage reading 12.6 v??
OMG YOU ARE AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ITS THE "alternator" THE ONLY ONE WHO HAS SAID THIS!!!!!!!
This is the knowledgeable guidance that best educates me, step by step, hands on, with visuals. Thank you.
I have many great videos on my channel covering many different subjects, so be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you and most importantly share. Thank you!
Very good video, on point!
I have been fixing cars since 1988..and i have never ever found such a smart and easy way to show how to detect parasitic draw....Very good indeed
Haven't seen this in awhile, but older cars had a glove box light that was fused but wired so it could come on without the ignition being on. Also a SAAB I owned had a boot (hatchback) light that could get switched on and you would never know it.
In the odd but true category... I worked on a car that had a fuse link between the alternator and the battery, it was a 70's Honda I recall. The link was corroded, not sure the alloy it was made from but that actually became a diode and blocked the charging current. That poor Honda was running a total loss electrical system and a new alternator did not fix the problem. All that was required to remedy that problem was a new fuse block and link element. Great tips as usual, thanks for your videos
Thanks for watching!
This was the clearest and easiest explanation on this process on youtube. Thank you. It helped me a lot.
Thank you Scott! Be sure to also watch today's video on parasitic drain, especially if you have a late model car.
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A very good instructional video, very well spoken and right to the point. Good tip about the door button and the interior light. Excellent.
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Can i just turn off the interior light instead of having someone to push the button?
The thumbs down people are not smart enough to understand. This is really good info. Thanks.
Thanks Rob
This will definitely help. 👍🏼
Because I am tired of my battery draining, and the cutest of diagnostics is getting very expensive.
I just ordered a voltmeter to see if I can find it what's draining the battery
Great video. The only one I've seen that goes as far as to say the parasitic draw maybe your alternator, and be sure and just connect it to to look for the drop and amps.. great video
Thanks John! Glad you enjoyed it. Be sure to watch my newer video on this below.
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Wow thats the best electricity video iv seen .cheers
Thanks much for this video! Helped me tremendously!
Best video I have seen on fixing this problem! Great tips - thanks
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Another thing to do is to, gently touch the loose cable to the post and look and listen for a very small spark.
I enjoy your videos because you are very thorough without being overly technical. I hope I get some likes on this statement because it is very important and some may not realize it. thnx
Hi David, I have z4 new battery replace install it sparks like a little burning mark after negative terminal touch the negative post. Is German car like that whereas Japanese car it feels save connecting it.
.
That is normal
Love your video I found it very helpful.
I’d like to point out a few things though. An older truck like my 2000 doesn’t have a sleep mode and the bower block fuse under the hood will give you a zero reading on the digital multimeter. That was easy to figure out but a bit baffling at first. But otherwise I found your video to be clear and concise, thank you so much.
Man thank you for the very end of your video about the door I should have known when I was pulling fuses out and nothing happened thank you good video
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!! couldn't have explained it any better - short to the point with video to show exactly what you were doing!!! Thanks!!
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Terse and accurate video. Direct and simple with no unnecessary bloviating. Well done! And kudos to the $5 meter (or free oft times) at Harbor Freight...if it it gets 'fired' at least it wasn't your Fluke.
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Yes. I like it when videos use simple multimeters that people might already actually have at home.
Excellent explanation thanks
Thanks, best video I've seen explaining this issue. Simple and to the point with no BS and no freaking bg music 🤗 !!!
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Well made video I liked it straight forward no face time just the task at hand keep up the good work my friend
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Excellent well to the point video, but I should add this is more for older vehicles, if you pull fuses on newer vehicles you're going to wake up modules and start chasing ghosts. The more preferred way is to measure voltage drop across the top of the fuses after you have put the vehicle to sleep.
My newer video on this is for newer vehicles.
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outstanding video
Really well done video! We can hear you clearly and see the multimeter well.
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1.9 million views and 28k 👍 excellent video.
Brilliant thanks I’m new to auto electrics this helped me learn more so thanks
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Thankyou very much for sharing your knowledge with us.
Excellent video! Super simple. I am a hobbyist audio electronics guys but I am not super familiar with 12volt systems. This immediately made sense to me and gave me a plan to hunt down my parasitic draw in my Jeep TJ.
Thanks so much for great instructions, clear and easy, i thought i may have that problem on my Kia Sedona 2006 3.8 L but as it turns out after viewing your video i don't have a parasidic draw at all, it goes back where it should after about 60 seconds on 0.02 Cheers Rick.
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could be an on/off cycling draw.
Great video. You cut right to the chase and hopefully helped me along.
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@@electronicsNmore my car battery has 12.6 v reading. But the magic eye shows white colour which indicates needs charging.
So, what would be the next step to turn the magic eye to green colour??
How important is the magic eye white colour versus the voltage reading 12.6 v??
Straightforward instructions A++++++
Thank you very much. The video that you made was extremely informative. You made it sound so simple. I learned something from your video the first time I seen it instead of going back and watch it two or three times. Once again thanks a lot I have subscribed and given a thumbs up.
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My meter is reading .13 at the start
electronicsNmore my meter is reading.13 at the start
great trick, gonna try this first thanks lots
Very useful video. Clear and to the point. Thank you for posting this.
You're welcome! Be sure to watch the newer video below also. Thanks
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ty you just made it so easy to understand great y instruction video
Good easy to understand explanation, far too many overly complicated ones out there.
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Right information for battery recondition!!!
Well done No BS I appreciate this
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@@electronicsNmore
my car battery has 12.6 v reading. But the magic eye shows white colour which indicates needs charging.
So, what would be the next step to turn the magic eye to green colour??
How important is the magic eye white colour versus the voltage reading 12.6 v??
Man thank you so much for breaking this down in everyday language. I was watching SMA and Eric was using $2000 scan tools and I was wondering if this could be done with a simple multimeter. Excellent video
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Great video!
Our of all the battery draw test your the only one that is explained the best 👍🏻👍🏻
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😲😲😲Straight to the point, thank you this helped me understand my notes better
Awesome video mate 👍 described everything like it was in a class room . And pin pointed every way possible to find the fault. Wish I watch this 3 months ago I would of pin pointed the problem on my girlfriends Mazda 3
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Great video. Back in the day when we rebuilt starters alternators we had the same problems. Usually it was a diode in the alternator letting power through it draining the battery. With minimal electronics then we just put a master switch in place to stop the problem and still do with heavy equipment.
Always a workaround. :-) Be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for many other videos of interest to you, and most
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@@electronicsNmore electronicsNmore my car battery has 12.6 v reading. But the magic eye shows white colour which indicates needs charging.
So, what would be the next step to turn the magic eye to green colour??
How important is the magic eye white colour versus the voltage reading 12.6 v??
Good tip. I would add that owners should find out if unhooking the battery will cause the engine control computer and transmission control ,to lose their memory. Some newer cars have to be taken to the dealership or garage that have the equipment to re-flash the chip. On some cars/trucks the engine and transmission will act up a bit while relearning. Just a friendly tip.
All my best.
Bobby
Good point, but usually the only thing that happens when you disconnect the battery, is any saved trouble codes in the computer will be erased. Once the battery is reconnected, you should always allow the car to idle a few minutes with the A/C off without touching the gas pedal. Doing that is important for the computer(To adjust settings).
Thanks!
Here is one thing that can happen
The
security system, if your vehicle has a passive anti-theft system,
usually disables the fuel pump and when you change the battery it will
need to be reset so that it will recognize the coded chip in your key.
Check that procedure in your Owners Manual. It only takes a minute or
two to do and you can do it yourself but the procedure is different on
different vehicle makes. Check your Owners Manual.
There are also some cars that will lose the programming.
All my best.
Bobby
*****
All part of solving the battery draining problem, but nothing that can't be taken care of. I added an annotation to the video when you brought it up. :-) Always refer to the manual.
There is also a I will call it a Tool. You put a 9 volt battery in it and plug it into the cigarette lighter the lighter socket has to be wired straight to the battery,some are not thus the key needs to be on. it keeps the power going to the ECU Though it would interfere with the test.This should only be used for replacing the battery not the test. I hope this helps. :) PS I hate the new cars :)
All my best.
Bobby
*****
Yes, I know that tool. Many of these anti-theft features pose problems to the owners!
Great video. I did your method and had a current of 13/14A with the car out! I blew my multimeter before having a chance to disconnect the alternator but am going to try that next
Thanks. Sorry to hear about your mishap.
Thank you for this explanation
This is a great source of information.
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@@electronicsNmore will do. Subbed
OMG.OMG salute your hard work sir 😎💥💥💥💥💥👏👏👏👏👏
Very clean and straight to the point. Great video!
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Very good been doing it that way for years it works promise ya
Good job 👏👍
Best video description on parasitic draw.
Bobo Teabaggins Thank you! Be sure to check out my automotive and useful tips video playlists, rate thumbs up, and share.
Great video, best I have seen and better instructions! Thanks
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Great Video !!! You ever heard of a faulty O2 sensor causing parasitic draw? 2008 Honda Civic , wide band B1S1 I think B1S2 might be narrow band
Amazing video!! Thanks for your help
Just downright plain and simple technical information on HOW TO. You are to be commended. This was totally enjoyable. Thanks a lot. Have a great day.
Glad you enjoyed the video Frank. I have many excellent videos on my channel, so be sure to look over my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and most importantly share my channel with others. Thanks!
Nice, thank you
If I had a bad regulator, would the battery light be on?
Great video by the way!!
Good tip about checking the alternator as well. For the door switch I use a short flat piece of wood and some c clamps with rubber face so no damage to car. I clamp it on the switch. No need for assistant.
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great video. i'm assuming there was no drain on this battery. i would have liked to have seen this done on a battery that had a parasitic drain on it. If there was a drain would the read out numbers been higher than the 0.02? would they be constant or would the numbers drop? If there was numbers, i'm assuming they
would go away when you pull the fuse from the circuit that is causing the drain.
More modern cars can be around 50mA, older cars should be closer to 20mA. If the drain is constant, then you'd see the steady load displayed on the meter. Thanks for watching!
by far the best youtube vid on parasitic drains checkin fuses. i cannot thank you enough, whoop :)
Very clear and informative, thank you!. I already check the battery and is good, also the alternator is good, now I'll check the fuse box.
Good luck!
very good advice love it plain and simple explanations for ignorants like my self on electronic this guy is good I subscribe to his channels and thumbs up and hi for this channel
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Best video ever well explained thank you
Great to hear! Be sure to watch my newer video on this subject. Thanks
Excellent educatiinal video. Thankyou very much. Cheers from 🇦🇺👌🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
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Maistro Bravisimo👏👏👏
Thanks for watching Eduardo! Be sure to share the video link.
Subscribed. Nicely done video.
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I read below you got negative comments? From this video? Wow! Thanks....great video!
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Thank you so much, your video it helped me a lot! 👍 Found the problem in my car
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Good clear video, thank you. Just would suggest, however, that it is not wise to wear a watch with a steel strap when working on or near an open electrical source .
I have a habit of wearing my watch. :-). Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to watch the newer video below as well. Thanks Chris!
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how about stuck relays? any thoughts? Thanks for a great video !!!!
Thank you sir ; this video is 100% very helpful to me. Thanks again!!👍😃👍👍
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Thank you, very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
this is a fantastic video and should be standard in any automotive class. very clear and direct instruction, straight to the point. excellent job.
Great video !!
Glad you enjoyed it
awesome simple and clean. thanks for the info. will try
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That a girl!