Installing a Truck Inverter
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2018
- Step-by-step installation of this $99 inverter on my truck, making it possible to plug in AC battery chargers and tools. Truck becomes like a generator.
➠ Video on installing the isolator: • Two Battery SetUp Usin...
✯ 220 inverter, which is not typical in North America: amzn.to/2wiViUm
✯ jumper cables: amzn.to/2MLXXjv
✯ 1" conduit: amzn.to/2PugWh3
✯ circuit breaker: amzn.to/2MvG2hO
✯ grommets: amzn.to/2o3ti3g
✯ step drill bits: amzn.to/2wmfsfU
✯ isolator: amzn.to/2Mqw6WK
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Music used in this video:
✯ Artist -- dixxy
✯ Song -- those days
✯ Link -- / those-days - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Here's a video on how the isolator between the two batteries is wired: th-cam.com/video/UdxaZR4GbVA/w-d-xo.html
We really love your ingenuity that you show in your projects! The screwdriver in the vice as a crimp line and the extra hand of vice grips holding a nut while you tighten the screw will be two tricks we're stealing from you. Thank you! :)
hey, nice of you to say! I really appreciate that. take care!
As someone who knows nothing about this kinda stuff, I can't thank you enough for that simple diagram. You're awesome.
Oh great! You’re gonna love having it hooked up
Best video I've found that explains all of this so well. I'm trying to to the exact same thing and this very clearly explained a lot of things I don't know much about. THANK YOU.
Oh good! Good luck with the project!
I like that crimping trick with a screwdriver. Always learning things from you. Thanks!
haha ... thanks, man!
That crimping trick might end up kicking him later.. there's a reason crimp tools have a 'V' shape on Both sides.
Chris W Same idea using two triangular files then. Still saves buying a crimping tool for a single job.
That sounds like it would work well
They say, give a competent man a tool and he can find a 1000 uses for it.
One of the best instructional vids for this. Simple and to the point. Much OBLIGED!
Glad to hear it!
Came here looking for some info on putting an inverter into my Tundra, found a great channel to subscribe to. Thx!
Thanks! Tundra will great with more power options
You are one talented dude. Good communication skills too. Thank you very much.
Thanks! Real nice of you to say
Nice explanation. Simple and easy to follow. Thank you! Hope it's held up well, I like the breaker idea.
Thanks! Yeah still liking my setup
I mounted my 4000 watt inverter near the tail gate at the back end of the truck with the cord outlets facing the tail gate. Climbing in and out of the truck for power is a pain. I did learn two neat tricks as others had mentioned. Enjoyed the video and good job on the install. The bracket for the inverter could have been much lighter by changing it to just a belt strap with one bolt and washer in the middle of each strap and then using that to hold the inverter with no wood needed. Again good job. Love the videos on youtube.
Mark Jones from Springfield MO
Man, I'm jealous! How did you get a long enough wire to reach the tailgate? I know what you mean about it being a pain, but I've been using a 10ft extension cord, which is less annoying. Take care!
I purchased stranded #6 house wire. Put it in the flex duct like you did yet the cheap duct rotted out after about 8 years. Just got a new f150 and will reinstall this wiring and some new duct. I may have to buy some new wire. Welding cable is a good choice as well for longer runs. Again good job on the video and install.
Oh, very good. I think I'll follow your advice on my other truck. It would be great to have the plugs way in back
This is great step by step instructions! I have 1994 Silverado so I'll be doing pretty much the same. I'm needing to live in my truck for a few months sadly while I go to school. But this video is one of many glad you posted!
I installed this inverter after spending a week sleeping in the back of the truck -- it's great to be able to plug in and charge things back there. You're gonna like it. Note that you might be able to save some money and time by installing the unit under the hood and simply plugging in an extension cord for your power. That's another option. Good luck with the project and truck life!
I wonder if this inverter is strong enough to run a small 100 psi air compressor.
I think it would be. Just check amps on the compressor
@@metaspencer Great vid.... question please. I have read that car batteries are inherently limited to about 150 to 200w power draws? can that be true? how does a 2000w inverter work with a regular battery then? Thank you so much.
@@uber2tuber Yeah you will surely encounter limits when pulling from a car battery ... from what I know it all depends on the size of the batteries, alternator, etc
This gives me lots of ideas. Thank you!!
Oh good! You’re gonna love it
This was such a well done video that allows an idiot like me to do this! And really smart tip about the vice-grips. Thanks for the detailed instructions. Very well done!
Most excellent! Nice of you to say
Cutting the jumpers cables up to make your leads was just genius. I priced the same gauge cable against buying jumper cables and the cables where cheaper. Thanks.
Most excellent! Gotta get the good deals when ya can
@@metaspencer you bet!
Awesome video, easy to follow, Nice Job thank you
Thanks man. It's great having the 110 AC power option. A real game changer
Awesome video! Thanks for going into detail!
Thanks man!
informative to the point and clear . Thanks !
Thanks man!
Another clean job! 👍
thanks, man
great job, gives me an option running a small portable a/c unit in my ancient truck
Sounds like a coool idea :)
Great work, just what a needed to watch.
Good to hear! You'll like the setup
Another good point. Thanks
One major thing needs saying. A Certain manufacturer,on Amazon, was describing their 2 gauge wiring as #2 AWG wire. American Wire Gauge is a TECHNICAL STANDARD stating current and voltage handling characteristics. When checked,the wire was ultra-light and questionable as "copper". When checked,the wire was magnetically attracted. It was arc-sprayed cast iron wire with a copper coating. ALWAYS use wire supplied by a standard manufacturer,rather than depending on junk jumper cables for constant power transfer. Welding cable is best !!
Wow, crazy story! Thanks for the tips
There are some good jumper cables out there I have one I don't want to cut, there is also another trend of 10 pounds of insulation on a 20 gauge wire they were free.
Yes! For the best quality and price for cable, source it from a welding supplier. Even Harbor Freight (U.S.) or Princess Auto (Canada) welding cable by the foot is a better gamble than recycled booster cables. Size the wire as large as you can tolerate for DC current and keep the runs as short as possible. Never exceed 10 feet per run.
@@chrisgraham2904 10 ft? If you never exceed 10ft per run than no car amplifiers could ever be installed in trunks etc. As this is common practice what is your reasoning?
@@donalddluckerii3147 For every inverter manufacturer that I investigated, somewhere in their fine print they state that the wire length between the battery and the inverter must not exceed 10 ft. The inverter warranty is void if that length is exceeded, so I assume that this is their legal liability issue. Many people do exceed that limit when installing on pick-up trucks, etc. and seem to have little issues. Don't skimp on wire size and oversize beyond recommended where ever possible. Solar panel manufacturers and retailers are also a good resource for expert advise on inverter installations.
Great explanation!
Thanks! It's still running well and very useful
I learned a lot, thank you very much
Thanks for checking it out!
Good job.
This was super helpful thank you!
I have a Corolla so i don't have to drill any holes in the back--I can just use one of the holes they added to let mice in
Love those carollas! I had one for 20 years
Screwdriver in the vice crimping tip is a top trick, nice one mate . Cutting the damn cables without a super duty cutter is something i'd love to know , them cutters are big bucks ! A hacksaw makes a right old birds nest !
I just cut and cut and cut until all the strands are cut ... seems to work!
@@metaspencer I'll give it a go on an old cable , my snips are probably crap and dull too. cheers
Nice useful project.
I'm super happy about it ...
Excellent video
Thank you very much! I'm glad it was useful!
Me & pop watched & both enjoyed nice work ..
hey guys! :) I hope he's feeling better
@@metaspencer he's better than ever thanks
Awesome video thanks!
You bet!
Great job my friend.
Thanks for checking it out!
Solid video!
Big thanks!
I love the Chevy!!
oh yeah! me to ... thanks!
inverter is in a good location, and you don't need to put it in the engine compartment but a few notes:
1) Your Red power wires should be wrapped with electrical tape (depending on voltage, select appropriate electrical tape) so you do not see any exposed terminals or wire!
2) I like your vice with screwdriver trick!
3) You can ground to the bed (shorter grounds are safer. Ground wires should be the same size or larger than your power wires. Less resistance = better ground. Wire brush your frame and use a fat ass bolt torque nicely to the frame as your ground location. Running it all the way to the battery was completely unnecessary and less-safe than a shorter ground.
4) Great idea with the secondary battery & Isolator!
Solid ideas, thanks !
Great video
Thanks man
Wow bro that's was a nice video I was in pain when you drill a hole in your truck 😱
You and me both: I'm checking those holes all the time for leaks :)
Thanks!
Nice install 👍👍
Thanks for checking it out
pretty neat i have a 92 silverado thinking of doing the same thing
92! Excellent
I like the idea I did something very similar to what you did
I used to be over the road truck driver and I got sleep apnea so I had to have the power inverter to run my CPAP machine and the semi had a battery operated APU it worked out excellent I went and bought some cable from Farm & Fleet both were red but I did color coat the ends the only downfall there was in the system is when the batteries got low I had to fire up the main engine to recharge system if I sat too long and being in a no idle state made it interesting not to get caught charging the batteries back up
sounds like a pretty good setup -- I would have figured that those CPAP machines took more power than the battery could produce. but no! I'm pretty psyched to have this AC power option for trips and remote builds. take care!
Man that's rough glad it's been working out for you!
Very nice!
Thanks man
Add at least 100w solar panel 💪
Thanks for sharing 👏
Yep you said it. Great idea
great job
Thanks!
that's very cool
It's a great setup
another thing to do , oh boy. !!!!! Thanks.
It's really great to have in the truck when working far from an outlet ... though I need a better, higher quality inverter
Everyone makes it so difficult except metaspencer. Thank you.
haha ... big thanks!
did this to my 94 Silverado with a leer top.
Cool truck!
Thank you
Good luck with it!
You could have done a better bracket for your inverter! But the important thing is that it works for you.. 👍🏻 good job
Haha … you are absolutely right!
One improvement. Add two small strips of ears there stripping on the jig where the bottom of the inverter touches it to keep it in place for sure and vibrations down.
very good 👍
Thanks!
Great vid dude and thank you☺️👍🏻
Oh you bet! It's great having AC power back there
metaspencer would it run a original Xbox One, I’m a trucker and tried to run my Xbox one of a cigarette lighter inverter🥴🤣... I then realised in need something bigger and better🤣😉
Thank you for reply btw👍🏻☺️☺️☺️
Just subscribed 👍🏻😊😎
@@hjohnstone6921 That's quite a bit of juice ... it all depends on the inverter. You've gotta check what load the device needs then compare it to the inverter.
very good sir, now can you do a vid on how I would use a solar panel with this setup?? Its just what I'm looking for. It would be soooo helpful since I'm a bit of a twit when it comes to this sort of thing.. cheers
I guess I really should put a solar panel on top of my topper for off-grid camping ... cool idea! Solar is definitely a bit more complicated, as you'll need a charge controller and all that, but you should be able to find some useful diagrams online. Good luck with it!
Very nice.
Thanks!
An inverter on a truck is MUST HAVE. I have a big 140min reserve Bosch led acid on my 2012 Ram 1500 and have been running a pure 1200 watt inverter on my truck for several years now. Here's what I've learned. The closer the inverter to the battery the more power you get. The shorter and thicker the cables from the inverter to the battery the more power you get. IMO, your inverter might be 2000 Watts, but you likely can't get more 900 watts from your battery even with lights off and while running your engine. My 1200 Watt inverter sits right on top of my battery's insulation locked safely under the hood and the cables are 4 gauge and about 5 inches short. I ran a heavy duty 110v extension chord safely and securely down the side of the engine bay and zip locked it to some other cables running on the top of the frame (away from any exhaust and fuel lines) and then up into the bed under the tailgate. No drilling, very secure and you can't see the cable unless you open the tailgate. Been running like this for years and am able to cut and drill 4x4 PT, make coffee, cook rice and even fry a steak. I keep the inverter off when I'm not using it for safety and since it's fan does consume some amps.
Okay, now why didn't I think of that! Put the inverter up front and then just run an extension cord to the rear of the truck. Doh! Great plan there, man. I really like that idea. Plus, it's flexible if you need to run the cord out the front end. Thanks for that tip and the thinking of power reduction.
wouldnt you have to open the hood and switch the inverter on everytime you wanted to use it. what about water getting in the inverter.
@@bobmanfredonia8412 I could keep the breaker switched on all the time, but prefer to keep it off when not using the inverter. For me, using the inverter is just an occasional thing, so switching it under the hood is not a big deal. I'm sure others have different needs. As for water, it's not a problem: the unit is nice and dry under my topper.
I wonder about the heat AND the water ...
@Hell's favorite NPC #69OU812 . exe Yeah, that makes sense ... seems to work for the low draw uses I put it to, at least
Good stuff
Thanks!
Good Job. I would heat shrink the terminals, there could be a chance of shorting the terminal on the CB to the chassis of the truck
Oh good idea! Never thought of that. Maybe I'll apply some liquid electrical "tape" ... thanks!
Things that i recommend with this setup!
Get a meanwell inverter, u can have a 1500w model for 250$ and they are way better quality and most importantly won't burn ur truck down!. Get a 12v 100ah Lifepo4 battery from Amazon and use 100amp contractor so that it will only connect to your truck battery only when the engine is running. When engine is not running the inverter will only drain the 100ah Lifepo4 battery which should give u about 1100w/hr to use. Don't forget to install an temperature controller for the alternator or the lithium will pull too much current from the alternator at idle & fry the coil!
Interesting ideas and insights. Thanks buddy!
hello ser
good day from phillipines
Good to hear from you!
Hey great job I like the way you crimped your ends with a vice and a screw driver , I just bought a 1500 watt inverter to charge batteries and plug in my laptops and my computers I’ll probably get a second battery like you have so I can run my power with the van off
Oh how I'd love a van! Now I'm jealous. Good luck as you set it all up ... you're gonna love being able to charge stuff up
metaspencer I just got the unit up and running now I can charge my phone I’m taking a road trip so now I have power for my 2 laptops and I can put in work
When I build my new house I’m going to wire it up for direct current
I may have an underground wire to a utility shed with city power but other then that AC power useless in my mind
@@joshuajonathanhood1227 Sounds excellent. I've got a buddy who has a full solar setup and it's awesome
metaspencer I already am using my laptop and charging my phone it’s awesome ! My inverter already has a switch in it so I didn’t have to install one , the vans nice I’m living in my van while I travel across country working from vehicle it’s a must to have power
metaspencer does he have a TH-cam ? I would love to see his set up I’m actually friends with Elon Musk & will be lobbying for solid energy above all other energy sources . When I build my new house I’m going to install solar panel roofing shingles do you own your own home ? If so how long does your roof have left on it’s life ? I may be able to get you some solar panels at cost once available I’m I’m thinking in the next 1-3 years....
Since the truck is negative ground, you only needed to route the red positive wire through the truck and drill one less hole. Then you will only need a short negative wire between the inverter and the truck frame.
I get that now - thanks. Too many years of house wiring on my end I guess haha ... take care
In my opinion it's still best to run straight to the battery especially when drawing a lot from the battery
Any inverter over 1000 watt must have both - & +, 2 awg (or larger) cables. Im not an expert, but every one I've ever owned would clearly state that in the manual.....
@@jasonpintler8150 but isn't several hundred square feet (guess) of conductive metal at least 0 gauge? Its an honest question as I don't know the answer.
@@awesomesauce2935 The ground circuit thru the chassis must still be connected to the battery. The small size of the battery to chassis ground cable will result in a voltage drop going to the inverter. The greater the load on the inverter the greater the voltage drop. The more the voltage drop the more amps required to deliver the same watts/power. The greater the amp draw the more the wires will heat up. The resistance from the heat will farther reduce will the voltage requiring even more amps.
Like the set , but the only thing I would change is the location of the off/on switch I would find a place in the cab.👍🏻
cool idea, especially if you plan to use it a lot
The way you use a table saw like a jigsaw both terrifies and impresses me.
Haha ... yeah, definitely a little bit sketchy. :)
@2:55 great tip, thanks
works for me! :)
Instead of crimping like that, get a propane/map gas torch, put the eyelets in your vice so the cup is upward, sweat some solder down into the cup, and then push the stranded wire in the cup and let cool. Presto, no crimping and solid connection.
Oh dang, I like the sound of that. A nice soldered connection is always the best. T'hanks for the tip!
Pls note:
Change that breaker to 100amp.
Put the inverter in the engine bay. Need to be as close as possible to the battery.
No need to run negative cable. If slave battery is already grounded to truck, then simply ground inverter to truck.
If that inverter fails you could have a real problem.. fire.
You are a very talented guy. Just change the amp rating. If it blows at 100 amps. The inverter needs to be relocated closer to battery.
God Bless. Be Safe. Cheers!
That all makes good sense ... 100 amp is way safer. I use it sparingly but see what you mean. Thanks!
And open the hood every time I need to use it? Hmmm
@@gradyrm237 for me that works since I use it only once a week or even less ...
@@gradyrm237 You can run an extension cord to the back of the truck. AC has less loss/heat than DC does and doesn't require as thick of a cable
metaspencer = thanks....I only want to hook up a stereo to it and an MP3 player...
That was pretty cool the way you instructed that but what charges your second battery from when you're done using it it doesn't bring back a charge
it charges just like the main battery: off the alternator
Personally, I think going underneath along the frame rails and coming up through the bottom of the bed would have made a cleaner job. Also if you ever remove the cable a rubber plug could fill the hole. I have a cobra 1800 watt inverter and have thought about installing it in my 2018 sierra, but the 28 feet of wire was cost preventive but yhe harbor freight jumper cables might work.
I see your point on that routing method for the wire but didn't want to come in low as I was thinking about water infiltration. But I see your point.
you shod get a inverter for the bus and have it so if you do need it you can have some sort of backup power while driving
Yep, on my list for when I replace the leisure battery. Also an isolator
thanks for the video, how do you decide the current rating of the circuit breaker?
Your inverter should have a load description in amps ...
Nice install brother. Quick question. Could you connect the ground to the chassis instead of going all the way to the battery? Thank you for your time!
Oh yeah, that will save you time and wire. The chassis is definitely a good ground
Great idea about the crimping trick, but how did you crimp the cables on the inverter end?
Vice grips with screwdrivers .... I really need a good crimping tool
@@metaspencer Good call, it's one of those tools that get used very seldom, so your method is perfect for your needs
I have a 96 Z71 with almost 400 thousand, she did run pretty good till my 17 yr old got hold of her. makes me sad! maybe he needs one of these Inverters.
woah, 400k! it's hard to believe, but this 1990 has just, wait for it, 53k miles. hardly any miles and next to zero rust. so you can imagine that I really like it :)
WOW, you better love that truck.
"ran pretty good till my 17 year old got ahold of it..."
Wish I had a dollar for everytime that was uttered...….
They’re dangerous!
I plan to put breaker inside cab. There isn't an issue with distance of breaker from source is there,?
That sounds smart. You can put the breaker anywhere, but keep in mind that the wire leading up to the breaker is not protected and, if cut into or something could arc
I think I got the same jumper they were from a local store, i was a little disappointed to find out that they were copper clad aluminum but it will work. I ended up drilling out the rivet so I could save the clips for other uses and keep the extra 6in of wire.
That copper coated aluminum is too common! Saving the clips was smart
@@metaspencer I was between a set at Walmart and a set an a bargain Close out store, from what I could tell thoroughly looking at them in the store they looked good and that they were supposedly 2 gauge. the price was about the same and I couldn't see the Walmart version which was smaller.
So I went with these big suckers they're about the size of my thumb and nice and flexible, now if only my fuse holder would come in I would have to force myself to find a way through the firewall and be good.
My biggest inverter is a 750w MSW :-( I keep saying my next is going to be a true sine-wave output it runs things more efficiently and some audio/amps/motors don't like modified. so I'm like way overkill anyway with a little bit of expansion.
And all I have to do is get some ring terminals, nuts and bolts and I can put clips on whatever I want, or use them as clamps.
Another thing I did instead of ring terminals is I got some electrical terminals that you usually bolt to a bus bar and have a screw tightened clamping mechanism to put the wire in and tighten it down which will make it easy to remove or change in the future. I do a lot of stuff with the end goal of having it be removable with minor changes, considering I went through three cars in six months :-( I am certainly looking at how easy it is to remove in 30 minutes while the guys watching you at the junkyard. I had to rip out my Bluetooth aftermarket radio and any other modifications I wanted to save and even tried to get the full tank of gas that I just put in…
@@imark7777777 Sounds like a good set-up and approach to me! You're gonna love it
The funny thing is a day or two after making this last comment my fuse holders finally came in and they sat around for a while. I Finally got everything in and it's all done and it works nice. I was looking around for a small disconnect to turn off and not drained the battery when not in use and decided to go with my original plan of using the second fuse holder.
Awesome! Great to have it running
Price of copper strand welding cable is ridiculous, I used jumper cables too for my project!
Just one thought as an electrical engineer, the heavier wire is on the DC side and also AC has less loss per foot distance so if you can keep inverter closer to battery, you will save money on wire and results with better AC voltage at outlets
Makes good sense. Thanks man
I had a 400W inverter installed. I upgraded it to a 800W. I also installed an inline fuse when I installed the 400W. I don't run that much: a laptop, a printer, a hotspot and my phone. The 400W ran off of 12AWG wire and I never had the fuse blow. As long as I don't increase my load, will the 800W be OK until I get the chance upgrade the wire? I didn't use a conduit. Good idea BTW.
Check a wire size chart. Depends on load but also length of the wire. Fuse is a good idea
Can I use a deep cycle battery for my secondary as long as I'm using an isolator?
Woah, I don't know exactly and you should ask around and do some research, but my gut reaction would be YES. Seems to make sense to me
Good video. The only thing that sucks is that you have to climb up in the bed to plug stuff in! 😲
Good point! I've since added a 10' extension cord to be able to charge my batteries back at the tailgate
👍👍👍👍
How did you crimp the wire when in the truck as you now don’t have the vice to use ?
Thanks.
I've had that question a few times. Without a crimper I used a pair of vice grips, sandwiching the wire between screwdrivers. That puts a nice dent in the fitting. Some will add solder to the end too
Nice video dude. My only concern is that copper clad aluminium (the jumper cables) gets brittle and can be dangerous.
Thanks for the tip! I'll check that out periodically
You have positive and negative to the inverter did you have to hook a ground as well to the inverter because I have positive negative cable plus a ground
You can ground to the body of the vehicle ... that's the the negative cable. I ran mine to the battery but you can just ground to the frame
U should use the seat bolt for ground
good idea!
That was a great video. I work in the oil field and move from job to job and I want to put a small microwave in my truck. Can you recommend a strong enough inverter?
You’re looking for a 2000 watt inverter I’m guessing... sounds like a good setup
I don't think any consumer microwaves exceed 1500 Watts -- the smaller compact units are usually around 1,100 Watts and are quite adequate for reheating a coffee , a sandwich, soups and stews..etc. Size the inverter 500 Watts above what your plugging into it.
MR Spencer good video. Two questions: 1) suppose I do not have room under the hood or don't want a 2nd battery there. Can I keep battery two on a tender in my house, bring it out when necessary, place it in my truck bed and just run wires to an inverter and then plug devices into the inverter without connecting battery two to the car battery(Battery one) that is under the hood with the car running? Question 2: If a car needs to be running, why have two batteries? Thanks.
Number one is a yes, but just keep it charged regularly. Number two is that it’s just how some heavy duty trucks are set up. Good luck with it!
Is it possible to just wire an extension cord straight to a car battery to run stuff while my car is on?
No, that won't work as your car batter produces a direct current (DC) and the stuff you want to run needs alternating current (AC) ... that's why you need an inverter
I have a 5000/10000 inverter for my semi could you tell me what size breaker I would need?
You need some thick wire for that one, so 2/0 wire. You should also have a fuse on the circuit. The breaker size should be something you can find on a site like this one: www.altestore.com/howto/recommended-inverter-cables-sizing-and-breakers-or-fuses-a62/ ... good luck with it man!
Can I use a DT wiring harness with switch you know the one they make with the LED connect at one and I was thinking of just cutting off the LED connection and connecting to the power inverter are those wires strong enough do I have to go with wires as big as the jumper cables you have I have a peek 2.1 amp5 V DC
The best way to answer that question is to look at a wire gauge chart. The chart will get you to consider your load and the distance of the run. I tend to go with larger wires than I may need just to be safe and avoid overheating or melted wires. Now, another way to set this up is just to install the inverter under the hood and then run an extension cord from there ... good luck with the project!
If you brought the wires in through the bottom of the beds lower back wall, the wires would reach further towards the back so the plug could be reached from the back of the truck without having to jump in to plug in. Could also remove the cap without having to disconnect everything.
Oh so true! But I didn’t want to drill through my bed. Great point
How do you charge the 2nd battery that is connected to the invertor ?
The second battery is linked to the first so charges when the alternator is running. Setup is here: th-cam.com/video/UdxaZR4GbVA/w-d-xo.html
I'm installing inverter for my sons PlayStation. Great idea on cables. Can you give me order info for inline fuse? Much obliged, great video. Thanks
Hey Jim! I posted the info on the fuse above in the "show more" section ... but here it is! ✯ 220 inverter, which is not typical in North America: amzn.to/2wiViUm
✯ jumper cables: amzn.to/2MLXXjv
✯ 1" conduit: amzn.to/2PugWh3
✯ circuit breaker: amzn.to/2MvG2hO
✯ grommets: amzn.to/2o3ti3g
✯ step drill bits: amzn.to/2wmfsfU
✯ isolator: amzn.to/2Mqw6WK
(all Amazon Associates links, which help support the channel)
What is the max. Output we get from this inverter. Can we run 1 hp water pump by this converter starting the car.
Just check your pump ... it should list how many watts it needs... cross reference that against your inverter
So I had my heater core go out on my 1998 durango, and the repair cost isn't worth it.
I want to hook up a 2000w inverter to my main/only battery, so that I can run a 500-1500w space heater inside my vehicle (only while running). If I find a different wattage heater, I may go lower so it isn't over kill. Just need something to get the interior warm and defrost the windshield if I need to. It also would be nice to have the inverter for when I want to use while camping.
Is there any obvious reason this wouldn't work? Will I drain the battery faster than the alternator charges it, even while running? To be clear, I am only trying to power the space heater while the vehicle is running.
There seem to me to be a few potential problems: one would be having the heater pull more than the inverter can handle ... the other would be killing the alternator. I'd be hesitant, myself, to run a heater just because of the draw, but I hope it works out for you!
metaspencer well if I run say a 1000w heater on a 2000w inverter, I wouldn’t think the inverter would be overloaded. But I guess I don’t know enough about the alternator charging capabilities.
do you get a descent amount of battery life using a regular car battery or is the deep cycle a necessity?
Big battery and limited draw ... charge often
if i used separate battery for inverter 2000w , how do it recharge to battery?or can i connect direct to car battery?
recharge but linking it up in series or parallel depending on what you want, if your alternator can handle it
Will that battery put out enough power to have a welder running ?
I wouldn't try to run a welder on this thing ... not enough amps ... but I guess you could check the amps needed by your welder and test it. Typically guys run welders off of generators
I wonder if you could run a small 125 amp flux core welder off this thing
That would be amazing! I kinda doubt you’d get enough heat … but it would be cool