If I may add on, don't forget to recheck your oil level after running the motor during fogging since the oil filter filled up. Also, on a four stroke motor, is it really necessary to do the fogging. the only thing you are lubing is the injectors, intake valves and the top of the piston? 2 strokes do the crankcase and all of the piston area. Lastly, don't forget to put the motor straight up and down to make sure all the water drains out. Thanks for making the video.
Excellent both verbal and visual instructions for winterizing the Yamaha 4 stroke. I especially appreciated listing all the items. and brands of fluids needed to accomplish the project. I am purchasing a 18.5ft Key West 2015 115HP 4 stroke outboard this spring and need to be able to winterize it myself next winter. Thank you so much for this valuable video. God Bless you and your family. Laura Rosenberg
Great video. i always like to refresh myself. a few other things i always do..... You should replace that little fuel filter in the cup also every year, prior to using it for fogging. you should also replace your Water Fuel Separator filter if you have you (if not, install one). GREASE EVERYTHING and lastly, always inspect your anodes and top off you Trim/Tilt pump reservoir. ALSO VERY IMPORTANT!!!! Make sure you pull your kill switch lanyard off the ignition, and turn your motor on and let it try to start for about 5-10 seconds (we know it wont). This ensures that you circulate the oil into the filter and around the engine PRIOR to firing this up and taking off.
Awesome video. I bought the vacuum tank so that I could change my engine oil without hauling her out of the water last year when I hit 100hrs in the middle of the summer. I didn't realize that even on land it's still easier to use the vacuum method, so I'll be doing that tomorrow. Glad I watched your video!
Excellent and simple video, It gave me the confidence to winterize the engine myself. As you say, four simple steps. Take it one at a time, and it gets done.
@@DIYeasycrafts I Thank you also. So, is there no danger of any water stucked somewhere inside of the engine or gear or cooling system , to freeze at below freezing temperatures outside the water during winter , to damage the housing/block ? If you have any informations about that, please let me know asap, so, that i can can act accordingly. Thank you very much.
Fantastic Video. I never owned a boat with outboard engines. Always had inboards. Should some Boat RV Pink AF be put through the hose you flush the engine with ? Is Fogging the Engine absolutely necessary? Thank you
I am assuming the water drains totally out after you turn off the hose. Or is there something I’m missing? Winter is very cold here. Great video thank you
Very interesting and informative! I live in south Louisiana and don't need to do this but I may occasionally not use my boat for as long as three months!
Awesome video , I’ll do this process in November this year is my first boat so I’m still learning, I have a question next year in the spring what I have to do to get the outboard ready for the season ??? Thanks in advance
Probably because it takes quite a bit longer to warm up the engine than is needed to get oil through the system. i don' think it is great to run oil and fuel mixture through it for too long.
Excellent! Very well done, thanks. Is there anything special that needs to be done in the Spring before it goes back on the water? Or just start it up and go?
Thanks, great video. Easy to follow steps. Somebody mentioned that oil and filter should be changed at 100 hrs intervals, If I don't boat 100hrs a season can I get away without changing this, or is it better to do it anyways?
Great video. I have question. Why not just get a 3.0 gallon marine tank with its own fuel line/primer bulb? Then mix 2 gallons of gas with the fogging oil and gas mix. Disconnect your main tank line and connect the mix fuel tank and line. Remove the fuel bulb and drain the non treated gas. Then reinstall that bulb and pump the mix tank bulb to transfer the mix. Then run the motor for 20 minutes to transfer the mix. The fogging oil mixed gas will immediately transfer to the VST and mix will be moved through the fuel system. This ensures that the VST and entire fuel system and motor is run with the mixed fuel and fogging oil. No need to cut ties and mess with hoses using a designated tank and fuel line with connection to the motor. Then run new treated gas in the spring and change the fuel filter after running with new gas. Again, the fuel bulb will need to be removed and mixed fuel dumped. Then new fresh fuel (mixed with stabilizer and Yamaha Ring Free) is transferred to the fuel bulb using the fuel tank hose (with a new fuel filter installed). Run the new fuel, with changed the fuel filter, and go for the season. What do you think of this method??
How about flushing the motors with antifreeze? From this process it looked like just changing oil and fogging, how does that prevent damage from cold? I thought the main risk from cold was water freezing in the block?
I was saying the same thing I just seen this video I work in a boat shop and I just started and everything he did was good except drain all the water he just put the water back in smh your supposed to use antifreeze to prevent from freezing up the engines
Q: Could one pull spark plugs, and squirt fogging oil inside cylinder that way? That was preferred method not long ago. Something different with Yamaha?
I actually attempted this myself thinking it would be simpler. In my case the spark plug is recessed a good 6-8" on my Yamaha and even with the extender tube I can't reach all the way to the cylinder.
Can you really run the engine on muffs alone for 10 minutes without doing damage to the water pump housing? Do you need to change the oil and filter every year or just based on service intervals ie. 100 hr, 200hr etc. Thanks
I will tell you this; vibrations of the motor will move the muffs out of position. If you do not pay attention, the engine will overheat if the muffs move and water is not transferred to the pump. I have a 2019 Yamaha F40LA EFI 4 stroke and it does not like muffs.....period. I use a tall 55 gallon drum with an installed drain. I also use the Milwaukee M18 water transfer pump to help drain that tank. With a tank, and water constantly supplied by a hose, you cover the cavitation plate (up to the cowling). This ensures you can run that motor with no problems and provide water pressure as if you are in a lake. Change your oil filter, engine oil and gear oil every season if you don't run much. I run for 15 hours max a season (use my boat for duck hunting and a little fishing a season). Use a digital battery charger to maintain your batteries. Then use Yamasheild to spray down your motor at the end of each season. I suggest changing your spark plugs EVERY year and check them. Install new plugs without anti seize since NGK clearly states to avoid using it. Change your water pump impeller every 2 years at the latest (yearly is preferred but with low usage, you should be fine if sand/debris is not an issue). Lastly, change your thermostat every year and take your motor to a dealer every 5 years for the 5 year service. Let them check the motor using the YDIS connected to a PC. They can inspect anodes (internal), change the VST filter and confirm that the shift cables, fuel pumps (high and low pressure) and timing belt/engine idle is ok. You can save on the cost changing the items I described (don't pay for a water pump, thermostat change, oil and gear oil change/fuel filter change). You can do these yourself. Use new gas treated with fuel stabilizer and Yamaha ring free every year. Discard the previous season's fuel even if the fuel was treated. Always treat your gas and use Yamaha Ring Free with your fresh gas. Use non Ethanol gas and you will NOT have fuel issues. Change your fuel filter EVERY year and get the dealer to change the VST every 5 years. Fuel problems are a killer. Clean, new and treated gas, with proper filter changes, ensures you never experience idle and WOT issues people complain about on forums. However, that VST filter should be changed by a Yamaha Tech. The timing belt should be done by a trained mechanic. The internal anodes and cables/idle speed should be done right. Review the 5 year service, do what you can and pay them for the rest. Running a motor for short hours requires extra maintenance and attention. Do it right and be aware that Yamaha notes hours but also yearly inspection/service. I avoid muffs and change everything yearly. Then you never need to worry. Do it yourself and save the costs. But pay the dealer for the 5 year service. It is worth it. Lastly, use new fasteners for the gearcase plugs. Use new fiber washers and use an oil extractor to remove engine oil. If you strip that engine oil drain plug, you are in a world of hurt. In addition, stripping the gear oil drain and upper plugs will hurt more. Use new plugs and torque to Yamaha specs. (for spark plugs as well using new plugs). Clean the lower unit bolts when changing the water pump (both male and female threads). Inspect your bolts and replace them if the threads are not in good condition. I suggest using new bolts every two years. Grease them lightly when installed or use Loctite 572 as noted in the service manual. Torque to Yamaha specs as well or tighten snug if you have the skill (not everyone has this ability and torque specs. are there for this reason). I spent the time to explain all this because I use my motor the same way you do. I am a Process Engineer (Chemical) by trade and follow proper OEM guidelines . Is it over kill and unnecessary? Maybe it is!! But I assure you, you will not have the issues everyone complains about on all these internet forums and WILL NOT be that guy who asks how to fix the problem. I perform all these tasks and store my boat/motor in my garage at home (heated by the house but not internally heated during winter). Keep the digital battery charger connected to maintain, clean battery connections, check battery water levels and load test your batteries every season using a proper battery tester (I use the Snap ON model but a $90 model will work). After fuel, the battery will be your showstopper. Good luck and know that low usage equals extra care and attention. Never less!
I would. It really has nothing to do with rain but more to do with temperature and none use. If you lived in tropic climates and used the boat year round you would not need to fog the motor
I only fill the gas can with a half gallon and use a quarter of the fogging oil bottle for one engine. I run the engine until the gas is almost gone before shutting down. You'll have blue smoke before its run out but run it anyway.
I'm sitting here scratching my head as to how you can pump gear oil holding the bottle upside down? The tube that goes into the 1 quart bottle would not be on oil if the bottle is upside down at all. No way José!!
I have a 2020 Yamaha 70 hp 4 stroke. My dealer told me that 4 strokes do NOT need to be fogged. I’ve checked with other dealers and online forms and many say that it’s not necessary. Can anyone tell me why dealers would recommend not doing something that the Yamaha manual says to do?
There is not supposed to dry all the water from inside the engine…the last step that you do is connect the water and let the fogging oil mix with the fuel, I’m kind a confused
You are correct. Somewhat redundant. The first method however does not go beyond the thermostat and never flows pass the cylinder walls and other parts of the engine block. The second method (with muffs/engine running) is a much better way to completely flush the engine as the the thermostat will open once the engine reaches temperature. Now, the fresh water is running through the entire engine block flushing away any salt deposits/sand etc. An even better method, is to run the engine with the lower unit submerged in a large bucket of water with your choice of cleaning solution (vinegar/ Salt Away/ Rydlyme /Simple Green) don't forget to remove the block anodes if they are in good shape. This will really clean up the engine of salt deposits/ scale, sand and other built up debris that clogs up the water passages leading up to over heating issues.
I am using the same fogging oil. I can never seem to get any smoke to exit the exhaust. Ive let it run for over an hour. Have you had this issue or know what could be wrong?
If I may add on, don't forget to recheck your oil level after running the motor during fogging since the oil filter filled up. Also, on a four stroke motor, is it really necessary to do the fogging. the only thing you are lubing is the injectors, intake valves and the top of the piston? 2 strokes do the crankcase and all of the piston area. Lastly, don't forget to put the motor straight up and down to make sure all the water drains out.
Thanks for making the video.
Excellent both verbal and visual instructions for winterizing the Yamaha 4 stroke. I especially appreciated listing all the items. and brands of fluids needed to accomplish the project. I am purchasing a 18.5ft Key West 2015 115HP 4 stroke outboard this spring and need to be able to winterize it myself next winter. Thank you so much for this valuable video. God Bless you and your family. Laura Rosenberg
Glad you enjoyed it!
One of the Best How to Videos I've seen... Good Job!
Glad you think so!
Clear and complete instructions. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent. Clear. Simple. Thank you. Maurice
Glad it was helpful!
so I have been changing the oil once a year, now I gotta do. it at marina a second time. Good Stuff. Thanks
Great video. i always like to refresh myself. a few other things i always do.....
You should replace that little fuel filter in the cup also every year, prior to using it for fogging. you should also replace your Water Fuel Separator filter if you have you (if not, install one). GREASE EVERYTHING and lastly, always inspect your anodes and top off you Trim/Tilt pump reservoir.
ALSO VERY IMPORTANT!!!! Make sure you pull your kill switch lanyard off the ignition, and turn your motor on and let it try to start for about 5-10 seconds (we know it wont). This ensures that you circulate the oil into the filter and around the engine PRIOR to firing this up and taking off.
Great video…. Man is this great! No nonsense just perfect. Most people just make these videos to hear themselves talk but yours is perfect. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This guy is really great at explaining things! This is a really well made video! Thank you!
Excellent presentation, getting ready to buy a boat with a Yamaha 300 on it, you video has helped.. TY
Awesome video. I bought the vacuum tank so that I could change my engine oil without hauling her out of the water last year when I hit 100hrs in the middle of the summer. I didn't realize that even on land it's still easier to use the vacuum method, so I'll be doing that tomorrow. Glad I watched your video!
a nice new ways to add fogging oil into engine, as sometimes very hard to get fuel filter bulb off to add oil direct to filter in 55hp,
Easy to follow and understand--now if I can get my husband to get cracking, I'll be happy!!
You can do it! I believe in you!
Excellent and simple video, It gave me the confidence to winterize the engine myself. As you say, four simple steps. Take it one at a time, and it gets done.
Very well done and easy to follow. Thank you for sharing your professional knowledge.
You are very welcome
Really well done video with great step by step stages and on-site into parts needed. You hit it right on the head. Thanks. I needed this review.
Glad you liked it!
@@DIYeasycrafts I Thank you also. So, is there no danger of any water stucked somewhere inside of the engine or gear or cooling system , to freeze at below freezing temperatures outside the water during winter , to damage the housing/block ? If you have any informations about that, please let me know asap, so, that i can can act accordingly. Thank you very much.
Excellent video and explanation of the winterization process. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Best winterizing vid out there. Ty, great job
Wow, thanks!
Great video! Thanks from the west coast of Sweden :-)
Thanks for watching!
Very good video! Very informative! Thanks👍
Very Well Done! Thanks for posting this
Very well done video. You have a gift for this type of instruction. Thank you.
Thank you Sir
Great step by step info, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video with excellent axplanation on everything. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent video- thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Fantastic Video. I never owned a boat with outboard engines. Always had inboards.
Should some Boat RV Pink AF be put through the hose you flush the engine with ?
Is Fogging the Engine absolutely necessary?
Thank you
I am assuming the water drains totally out after you turn off the hose. Or is there something I’m missing? Winter is very cold here. Great video thank you
the best is connecting the fuel line .. easy easy...
Great video, I appreciate it as I need to tackle winterizing myself. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. What if I already had the annual service, changed oil, filter, etc.? Just fog the engine?
Yes
Very interesting and informative! I live in south Louisiana and don't need to do this but I may occasionally not use my boat for as long as three months!
Awesome video , I’ll do this process in November this year is my first boat so I’m still learning, I have a question next year in the spring what I have to do to get the outboard ready for the season ??? Thanks in advance
Great video…Thanks! Any reason why you don’t fog the engine first, while you’re warming it up for the oil change?
Probably because it takes quite a bit longer to warm up the engine than is needed to get oil through the system. i don' think it is great to run oil and fuel mixture through it for too long.
Excellent! Very well done, thanks. Is there anything special that needs to be done in the Spring before it goes back on the water? Or just start it up and go?
Start it up and go.
Very good video
Thanks for the visit
Add; Check the magnet on the bottom plug in the lower unit for metal filings and clean it off so that you know any accumulation next time is new.
Very good video but you should drain the vst tank before running the winter mix through so the mix gets into the motor
Thank goodness our!
Enjoyed the video. I have also heard of a spray can fogging oil applied. How does that work?
One question what is the size of the gas hose to connect to inline gas filter of motor. I believe it is 3/8 but I thought I’d ask thanks.
Great video. It would be great if you could get your hands on a Honda 150 BF vtec four stroke and do a video on that. God bless.
Thanks, great video. Easy to follow steps. Somebody mentioned that oil and filter should be changed at 100 hrs intervals, If I don't boat 100hrs a season can I get away without changing this, or is it better to do it anyways?
You might be able to get away with it but for a few bucks its just not worth the risk
Great video
Great video, thanks.
You are welcome!
Nicely done thank you. You must be from Long Island!
Yes I am!
@@DIYeasycrafts lol.... I couldn't tell.... Fellow LawwngIslanda here
Great video, do you know what size fuel line hooks ups to the fuel filter for fogging, 5/16 or 3/8? Also do you know what size wire tie ?
I find the video very good I WOULD HAVE LIKE TO SEE THE ZIP TIE ON THE GAS FILTER A LITTLE BIT BETTER TO UNDERSTAND THE FOGGING PROCEDURE A BIT BETTER
Thanks for the video. What size is the fuel line that connects to the fuel filter. Kevin
Really informative video. One tip though - wear nitrile gloves! No need to get that stuff on your skin.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Great job
Dumb question: I thought there was an aerosol type fogging oil thought was sprayed into the engine via the spark plug holes. ??
Fogging oil is used on 2 stroke outboards
Does the engine have to run dry for a short time to expel water before cold winter storage?
Great Video, what size fuel line do I need to connect to the fuel filter housing .
I think its 3/8
Tk Good Job 💯👍
Great video.
I have question.
Why not just get a 3.0 gallon marine tank with its own fuel line/primer bulb?
Then mix 2 gallons of gas with the fogging oil and gas mix. Disconnect your main tank line and connect the mix fuel tank and line. Remove the fuel bulb and drain the non treated gas. Then reinstall that bulb and pump the mix tank bulb to transfer the mix. Then run the motor for 20 minutes to transfer the mix.
The fogging oil mixed gas will immediately transfer to the VST and mix will be moved through the fuel system. This ensures that the VST and entire fuel system and motor is run with the mixed fuel and fogging oil. No need to cut ties and mess with hoses using a designated tank and fuel line with connection to the motor.
Then run new treated gas in the spring and change the fuel filter after running with new gas. Again, the fuel bulb will need to be removed and mixed fuel dumped. Then new fresh fuel (mixed with stabilizer and Yamaha Ring Free) is transferred to the fuel bulb using the fuel tank hose (with a new fuel filter installed).
Run the new fuel, with changed the fuel filter, and go for the season.
What do you think of this method??
How about flushing the motors with antifreeze?
From this process it looked like just changing oil and fogging, how does that prevent damage from cold? I thought the main risk from cold was water freezing in the block?
All of the water is drained
I was saying the same thing I just seen this video I work in a boat shop and I just started and everything he did was good except drain all the water he just put the water back in smh your supposed to use antifreeze to prevent from freezing up the engines
Q: Could one pull spark plugs, and squirt fogging oil inside cylinder that way? That was preferred method not long ago. Something different with Yamaha?
I actually attempted this myself thinking it would be simpler. In my case the spark plug is recessed a good 6-8" on my Yamaha and even with the extender tube I can't reach all the way to the cylinder.
I assume you use only a small portion of the gas/fogging oil mixture before the blue smoke comes out. What do you do with the remainder?
I had the same question. I used at best half of the two gallons. How long is that fogging oil mixture good for?
When fogging, do you put the engine in gear or let it sit idle? Prop was spinning so looked like it’s in gear
Not in gear just neutral
@@DIYeasycrafts You should never put an outboard in gear unless the prop is in the water
great video. how about the anti-freeze aplication?
Thought you could run the Yamaha hooked up to hose connection and not have to use ears?
Can you really run the engine on muffs alone for 10 minutes without doing damage to the water pump housing? Do you need to change the oil and filter every year or just based on service intervals ie. 100 hr, 200hr etc. Thanks
Yes you can run it on muffs AT IDLE ONLY. Service interval is every 100 hours for all oils and oil filter.
I will tell you this; vibrations of the motor will move the muffs out of position.
If you do not pay attention, the engine will overheat if the muffs move and water is not transferred to the pump. I have a 2019 Yamaha F40LA EFI 4 stroke and it does not like muffs.....period.
I use a tall 55 gallon drum with an installed drain. I also use the Milwaukee M18 water transfer pump to help drain that tank. With a tank, and water constantly supplied by a hose, you cover the cavitation plate (up to the cowling).
This ensures you can run that motor with no problems and provide water pressure as if you are in a lake.
Change your oil filter, engine oil and gear oil every season if you don't run much. I run for 15 hours max a season (use my boat for duck hunting and a little fishing a season). Use a digital battery charger to maintain your batteries. Then use Yamasheild to spray down your motor at the end of each season.
I suggest changing your spark plugs EVERY year and check them.
Install new plugs without anti seize since NGK clearly states to avoid using it.
Change your water pump impeller every 2 years at the latest (yearly is preferred but with low usage, you should be fine if sand/debris is not an issue).
Lastly, change your thermostat every year and take your motor to a dealer every 5 years for the 5 year service.
Let them check the motor using the YDIS connected to a PC. They can inspect anodes (internal), change the VST filter and confirm that the shift cables, fuel pumps (high and low pressure) and timing belt/engine idle is ok. You can save on the cost changing the items I described (don't pay for a water pump, thermostat change, oil and gear oil change/fuel filter change). You can do these yourself.
Use new gas treated with fuel stabilizer and Yamaha ring free every year.
Discard the previous season's fuel even if the fuel was treated. Always treat your gas and use Yamaha Ring Free with your fresh gas.
Use non Ethanol gas and you will NOT have fuel issues. Change your fuel filter EVERY year and get the dealer to change the VST every 5 years. Fuel problems are a killer. Clean, new and treated gas, with proper filter changes, ensures you never experience idle and WOT issues people complain about on forums.
However, that VST filter should be changed by a Yamaha Tech. The timing belt should be done by a trained mechanic. The internal anodes and cables/idle speed should be done right. Review the 5 year service, do what you can and pay them for the rest.
Running a motor for short hours requires extra maintenance and attention. Do it right and be aware that Yamaha notes hours but also yearly inspection/service.
I avoid muffs and change everything yearly. Then you never need to worry. Do it yourself and save the costs. But pay the dealer for the 5 year service. It is worth it.
Lastly, use new fasteners for the gearcase plugs. Use new fiber washers and use an oil extractor to remove engine oil.
If you strip that engine oil drain plug, you are in a world of hurt. In addition, stripping the gear oil drain and upper plugs will hurt more. Use new plugs and torque to Yamaha specs. (for spark plugs as well using new plugs).
Clean the lower unit bolts when changing the water pump (both male and female threads). Inspect your bolts and replace them if the threads are not in good condition. I suggest using new bolts every two years. Grease them lightly when installed or use Loctite 572 as noted in the service manual. Torque to Yamaha specs as well or tighten snug if you have the skill (not everyone has this ability and torque specs. are there for this reason).
I spent the time to explain all this because I use my motor the same way you do. I am a Process Engineer (Chemical) by trade and follow proper OEM guidelines .
Is it over kill and unnecessary? Maybe it is!!
But I assure you, you will not have the issues everyone complains about on all these internet forums and WILL NOT be that guy who asks how to fix the problem.
I perform all these tasks and store my boat/motor in my garage at home (heated by the house but not internally heated during winter). Keep the digital battery charger connected to maintain, clean battery connections, check battery water levels and load test your batteries every season using a proper battery tester (I use the Snap ON model but a $90 model will work).
After fuel, the battery will be your showstopper.
Good luck and know that low usage equals extra care and attention. Never less!
@@byronakhavi953 Great advice thank you Sir !
Great advice thanks so much!!!!
@@byronakhavi953
Great video…thanks! What type / brand of hose quick connects are those?
I dont know off hand. Got them at ace hardware
What to do with carburetor outboards ? I always run the carb dry and only fog the spark plug holes.
If a boat is kept on a lift under a roof is it necessary to fog the 150 motor?
I would. It really has nothing to do with rain but more to do with temperature and none use. If you lived in tropic climates and used the boat year round you would not need to fog the motor
Don’t you need to run antifreeze through the muffs or flush system?
Could I use Yamaha Lube EFI fogging oil in any four stroke outboard. I have a Honda BF225.
Obviously you don’t use all the fogging fuel, do you just dump the rest?
I only fill the gas can with a half gallon and use a quarter of the fogging oil bottle for one engine. I run the engine until the gas is almost gone before shutting down. You'll have blue smoke before its run out but run it anyway.
@@dinosimotas Thanks
I need to purchase a fuel line and primer bulb for the fogging step. Is there a particular size for a VF115 Yamaha? Thanks
The thermostat needs to be open because the engine is warmed up in order to flush with the flushing port and be effective.
Is there a difference in a static flush vs a motor running muff flush? I’m in saltwater only.
Will a muff flush only be enough?
What if the engine is brand new? Only 10 hrs tops. Do you still need to do all this?
I'm sitting here scratching my head as to how you can pump gear oil holding the bottle upside down? The tube that goes into the 1 quart bottle would not be on oil if the bottle is upside down at all. No way José!!
I have a 2020 Yamaha 70 hp 4 stroke. My dealer told me that 4 strokes do NOT need to be fogged. I’ve checked with other dealers and online forms and many say that it’s not necessary. Can anyone tell me why dealers would recommend not doing something that the Yamaha manual says to do?
There is not supposed to dry all the water from inside the engine…the last step that you do is connect the water and let the fogging oil mix with the fuel, I’m kind a confused
Where can i get the lower unit fitting
What size is the fuel line hose?
Great video. What about running antifreeze? Thank you
I never have. I just drain water
@@DIYeasycrafts Thank you. Maybe you should do a follow up video on how to do the antifreeze for those that really want to do it.
@@nary1958It’s not nesessary. The engine drains in the down position.
I'm in Canada. The boat dealers install an antifreeze into the system. (An RV antifreeze) what is the procedure for that?
Sorry but I just dont have any info on that
This is the only question I had left at the end. For shure you can't have water pocket in there if the motor is left in the cold.
I will like to no if is a diesel out board salt water 4 stroke engine
Its a gas outboard
Do you also add stabilizer while your at it?
Is any anti freeze necessary to run through the motor?
Do u have to run antifreeze threw it where its self drains
Why would you flush the motor then run it on muffs???? You are flushing it then???
You are correct. Somewhat redundant. The first method however does not go beyond the thermostat and never flows pass the cylinder walls and other parts of the engine block. The second method (with muffs/engine running) is a much better way to completely flush the engine as the the thermostat will open once the engine reaches temperature. Now, the fresh water is running through the entire engine block flushing away any salt deposits/sand etc. An even better method, is to run the engine with the lower unit submerged in a large bucket of water with your choice of cleaning solution (vinegar/ Salt Away/ Rydlyme /Simple Green) don't forget to remove the block anodes if they are in good shape. This will really clean up the engine of salt deposits/ scale, sand and other built up debris that clogs up the water passages leading up to over heating issues.
What if you use your boat all winter
Then you do not need to winterize it
@@DIYeasycrafts sounds good thanks
Do you have to worry about the water inside the engine
As long as outboard is vertical it drains
I am using the same fogging oil. I can never seem to get any smoke to exit the exhaust. Ive let it run for over an hour. Have you had this issue or know what could be wrong?
what size fuel line is that?
Why in the hell do they still make flathead screws???
I bought a special Snap On screwdriver just to remove the lower unit drain screws. the wide blade fits perfectly.
@@daviddesmond2143 thank you. I'll check it out.
What about the cooling system? Does the water jacket just gravity drain?
Should you not show the proper procedure to drain and or service the VST?
What state is your accent from?
NY
Good a 40hp and 30hp Yamaha long leg 4tienpos when new or used I am from Uruguay
Good could pass me the prices of used 40hp and 30hp 4times 2018ben forward long leg and
Sorry. Thank you.
ID😊❤️❤️👆👆👆👌👌👌👌👍👍👍👍
So translator not bingles
Excellent presentation, Thank You.
Junk! Waterpump went out at 41hr and Yamaha would not fix under Warenty!!!
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