I've watched 3 videos on this procedure now and yours was the only one to address the fact that the shaft may disconnect from the engine. Thank you for that. It is certainly something to be cautious of. Good video, good learning experience for both you and the future me when I need to do this. Thanks
HI Stan. Thanks for watching the vid and your comment. There was some panic at first when the shaft came off completely but soon turned to me being focused and getting it back on. Like you say a great learning experience. Good luck when it comes to your turn to service the final drive. Stay safe. Billy
If you disconnect the final drive, what is not necessary, you have to pay attention and need red loctite for the swingarm bolt. This was not mentioned in this video.
@@BillysBikeAdventures Side Note: I have a 2021 GSA1250 and there was a recall notice to install a valve on the swingarm/driveshaft housing that allows moisture to escape. That valve is now stock on 2022 moving forward and possibly late 2021 models. So BMW is making an effort to solve the problem.....@stan_for_adventure
Thanks Stan. I had heard this but I have not had a recall notice. I did speak to my local dealer and they said it would be done on the next service which just happens to be in January so I will be sure to mention it when booking it in. Cheers. Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures Yes...my bike was in for new tires when they installed the valve. They did a beautiful job. You would swear it was right from the factory assembly line. I spoke with the service guys and they told me that BMW sent them special tooling and a whole template thing for the retrofit.
Brilliant Video Billy thank you. I was horrified when the shaft came off the gearbox end splines because the diff end splines were rusted solid on my 2017 GS1200 25000mls. Posted for help on the GS 1200/1250 FB page and this video and an answer within an hour from Billy came up. Extremely difficult job to release the shaft from the diff splines, lots of patience and thankfull that I'm from an engineering background finally got it released after an hour. The good news is that I have peace of mind that both ends have now been lubricated. This really does need to be part of the maintenance schedule for these models at 12000mls latest and maybe yearly if you use the bike 12months of the year as I do.
Hi Robert. Fantastic you got yours sorted 👍🏼. Great to hear the video helped 👍🏼 agree it should be part of the BMW maintenance schedule. Seen too many horror stories. Thanks for the feedback 🙏. Stay safe. Billy
There is a silver lining to every dark cloud (although I did not see it that way for the first 5 minutes lol). Thanks for watching and you comment. Stay safe. Billy
Really good video here and nice to see you included all the hassle of disconnecting the input side of the drive as I’m sure it’s only a matter of time before this happens. Haven’t done this service to my bike yet but it’s on the list before I get out too much in 2023. Thanks for the video👍👍
Good informative video. Like that way that you show the possible pitfalls too. Just one point, I think that you over did it a bit with the moly grease. On the splines yes, but painted all over the CV joint will do no good, it will just fling off making a mess. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for you message Bob. Good point, thanks. My thinking was that to keep them rust free as well but understand what you are saying. Cheers. Stay safe Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures I agree with you; while it may or may not be "messy", I have seen pictures of others' u-joint / CV joint with rust on them. I'd rather wipe off excess grease, than have to remove rust or worry whether the universal joint is rusting. Peace of mind is worth something, eh?
VERY good tutorial, :) quick tip from when I did similar service on other bikes (Will be doing my GS this spring) I always remove the fill bolt before I remove the drain bolt, I've had a few times where the fill bolt was seized in the final drive and would not come out. Better to know that BEFORE you drain the oil :).
Hi Nick. Thanks for watching and your comment! I do not have a background in doing these types of things but believe you have to give it a go. I really enjoyed the learning experience of this so good luck to you and let me know if you have any questions. Merry Christmas. Billy
Hi there. Thanks for watching and your comments! The mistake was initially as I thought I was out of my depth but took a deep breath and got stuck in. Really enjoyed doing it. Will repeat the process at the end of this summer. Good luck if you have a go. Its very rewarding to do it yourself! Cheers Billy
Thanks Simon. I can tell you that my first reaction was, typical, what a pillock and how much was this going to cost me. Then a quick harsh word with myself to get on with it and gladly, it all worked out. Having said that, I am yet to get out on it since putting it back together 🙏 Stay safe, Billy.
If the bike has been sitting in an unheated garage or similar I’d use a warm air blower or a heater to warm up the final drive housing. Gear oil is quite a thick oil so warming will help it drain more efficiently along with removing the fill plug.
Great video Billy, thank you! Bit of a pain, the drive shaft disconnecting from the engine end.......the silver lining though is at least we can all look out for that problem 😊, all be it at you expense ☹️
Hi Stags7075. Thanks for you comment. I really did think at the time when it happened that it was going to cost me a fortune. Had a word with myself, told myself to get a grip and get on with it. Glad I did as I know much more now. Cheers. Billy
In line with the comments from others, an excellent video which demonstrates the main fear that I and others have by tackling this task. However, for those like me who have an RT the task is made more complicated because the right hand peg bracket has to be removed to gain access to the front boot, as I mention below. But the bracket is attached to the rear brake master cylinder which is secured at the back. If any RT owners can offer suggestions here to simplify matters then much appreciated.
Thanks beemer 1200. For watching, your feedback and support for others. This is exactly one of the reasons that I started the channel, to help others and build a community of support for others. I don't have all the answers but as a community we can help each other. Thanks again 👍. Cheers. Billy
Hello thanks for a very good video. I have watched quite a few. I decided yesterday to service my drive shaft on my 2018 RT. Everything went so smoothly. I could not believe it, till I tried to drop the final drive. Uh oh! She was seized to the shaft. Lol. Ended up removing the whole drive with the shaft. No moly from the factory on either end. Not sure where the water came from. Did soak up some with a rag in the swing arm. Anyways, it took a ton of patience and SEAFOAM CREEP penetrant to loosen it off. Very gentle hammering to nudge the shaft off. I used Loctite 8012 65% moly on the splines. I will be checking this on a frequent basis. The front boot is a pain I find. But it got some silicone grease also. I’ll check it again at next oil change. Hopefully no more water.
Hi there. Thanks for watching the video! Glad it helped in doing you own service on the final drive! Sounds like you had a tougher time of it than me. I will be doing mine again the coming months as its a great opportunity to give the bike a thorough clean as well, brake calipers esp after being out through the winter. Stay safe. Billy
I have a 2009 RT and will soon attempt mine. Haynes and Clymer manuals say remove both left and right hand footpeg brackets. However, the right hand one is attached to the rear brake master cylinder that is secured to the bracket from the back. So my question is, how did you separate the cylinder from the bracket in order to access the rubber boot on the gearbox end?
@@guitarplayerwannabee hi. The drive shaft comes out once the final drive separated. Then the front (transmission side) boot is free. Your drive shaft maybe attached with a clip at the transmission end (mine wasn’t). If so a tug will get it off. Hopefully that helps you. Lots of videos out there. Guys are super helpful. *** I just reread your post and you have an 09. I have 2018. Now that maybe different.
Hi Beemer1200. Sounds like the welder's experience in the message below is the guidance you need. I have no experience with an RT so hopefully you find the welder's message useful. Good luck and do come back if you need more info. Cheers. Billy 👍
Hi Brian. You are so right. A bike ramp would be brilliant but no space to store it but would love one. Thabks for watching and your comments. Cheers. Billy
Hello Billy, How has your front shock been since you have owned the bike? mine has just started leaking, and its a proper mission to remove it, just wondering if you have done it. Cheers, Billy.
Hi Paul. Thanks for your comment. I was not aware that the swing arm could move. If I had know that I may very well have done that, a straight connection would have saved a lot of time, anxiety and frustration. Cheers. Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures You're welcome. Jacking it up from the bottom would compress the spring, simulating load on the bike. Of course, you'd have to be careful that you didn't jack the center stand off the ground. Having another person sitting on the bike might help that (being careful of course). I bought an R1250RS a few months ago. Hopefully I won't have to do this job for a long time.
Hi Billy - nice clear video - thanks for sharing. I did this exact same procedure a few days ago, fortunately without the problems that you encountered with the shaft disconnecting itself at the engine end! I’d watched a few other videos on the same subject and picked up some useful tips. I think using a bolt jack to take the weight of the final drive is probably easier than the strap you were using - that looked a bit awkward. Also, I wasn’t sure that using a silicon sealant to make the boot watertight was such a great idea - it might prove messy when you next do the job? I used a white silicon based grease for this purpose. Final question - what would you recommend for cleaning up the inside of the exhaust? Mine has a lot of tar spots and general crud which is tricky to get off. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Simon
Hi Simon. Thanks for watching the video and your message! 👍 I agree with you on the car jack to hold the final drive up, it was awkward! Glad you did not have the issue I did. It took me about half an hour of being incredibly patient with myself to get it back on 🙏.. A great product for get tar of exhaust is AutoSol metal polish. Rub over area leaving a layer. Leave for a few minutes and then polish off. Repeat if not all off. It is good stuff. You can leave the polish on for a bit longer before polishing off. Use a glove to rub polish on with finger. Should work a treat. Stay safe. Billy
Hi Billy, thanks for the video! Quick question regarding the final drive fill...why do you align the holes in the final drive? Are you trying to get the oil into the inner hole or just into the drive housing? Thanks!
HI Alberto. Thanks for watching the video and your comment! Yes, it unscrews clockwise as your wrench would be upside down. SO the setting on your wrench are as normal for tightening / loosening. Good luck with it if you are going to do it. Well worth checking as its not on the BMW maintenance schedule. Stay safe. Billy
Hi Phil. Thanks for watching the video and your question! Mainly due to the fact that the shaft pulled with the final drive as I tried to release it. So as the final drive dropped and did not separate from the shaft at the end I was working on, I was left with only one very unfortunate answer. That said I am glad it happened as I now know more about my bike. Hope that helps. Let me know if at more questions. Stay safe. Billy 👍
Hey. The fact that it came off was opportunistic to grease both ends. However, I was definitely not planning for that but a good experience. Cheers. Billy
I forgot to mention that Grumpy Goat has produced 3 videos on youtube re lubing the splines. He explains that to avoid pulling the shaft away from the transmission, you need to place the shaft in a particular orientation before lowering the final drive housing too much.
Thanks Andrew! If you could have seen my face when the input yoke came off the splines attached to the engine, it was very much more of 'stupid man' lol. Fortunately I got it sorted 🙏. Stay safe. Billy
Hi Billy Thoroughly enjoyed the video. I have watched a few of these now with a view to sometime very soon, carrying out the rear spline greasing. I found your video particularly interesting because the glimpses I managed to get of the female/male splines suggested both were in good condition and free from corrosion in the main. So why I wonder did you have an issue parting the shaft at the wheel end? Just looking at what you were doing, it does rather seem as though you were tugging against a reasonably taught strap (at least the left side viewing from the rear looked taught but the right was perhaps a little slack). So on reflection do you feel this might have caused the issue you encountered with detachment of the shaft at the engine end? Also where did you attain the speed sensor torque figure? There is a well know BMW guru (Jim Von Baden) who advocates 5nm on his website, so curious to know if your value came from a BMW manual. Thanks for your help.
Hi AdvancedRider. Thanks for watching the video and your comments/questions! I have no idea why such a challenge to disengage the shaft drive from the splines at the final drive end that resulted in completed disengagement. The strap was always loose enough as I loosened each time the final drive dropped and at the point of the disengagement the strap was still loose so unfortunately that was not the issue. The speed sensor info I got from my riders manual. It states that the front is 8Nm so have assumed the same for the rear in the absence of that information being in the manual. Not sure why the rear speed sensor is not in the riders manual but the front is. Hope that answers all your questions! Let me know if you have any others. Good luck when you come to service your final drive. i will be doing the same again this winter (hopefully without the same issues). Stay safe. Billy
Have just stripped my 1250GS drive shaft out to find that the Diff side spline is seized on the drive shaft. Have now got it soaking overnight in WD40. Man I hope it comes off tomorrow as there's no way of getting any pulley draws in. Any ideas?
Hi Paul. Ah mate that sounds like a tough job. The only thing I can suggest is release fluid. Hope the soak in WD40 had some I pact. Good luck and let me know how you get on with it. Cheers. Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures Managed to get it off, ended up having to gently heat the UV joint spray more WD40 then bang it off using a parralel punch. Not easy. Found this video by The Bike Stig, Properly Servicing Shaft Final Drive on the BMW R1200GS. Which highlights the same issue and sorts it similar to the way I did. Tho, I ended up damaging the rubber boot so have had to order a new one 😮💨. Cheers Billy and take care 🤘
Does the white silicone rubber sealant that you used on the rubber boot cure or does it remain spreadable indefinitely. I was involved in a bit of a debate as I used a flexible sealant that cures yet remains extremely flexible and can't be wiped off. The person involved claimed only grease was to be used. I have not had any issues and don't foresee any.
Hi Jack. Thanks for watching the video and your question. The one I used remains flexible but not spreadable. I do accept that grease is a great solution but I personally want a bit more protection. Its a personal choice. Its your bike so you get to choose. There will always be an alternative point of view. Thanks and stay safe. Billy
Hi Billy - I was watching a fairly old vid of yours on the subject of tyre changing - the list of tools needed inc the balance thing and the compressor all starts to get a bit expensive - anyway my question is ( and I hope it’s not a silly one ) does a £20 portable tyre inflator have enough juice to reseal the tyre onto the bead - the kind u plug into the 12v power outlet or is a much more powerful compressor needed? Thanks “🥃”...
Hey Mr Whisky. Good to hear from you. Hows the snow up there. -21, chilly, hope you and family are well. Good question! In short most are powerful enough to get the tyre back on to the bead. The pressure is not as fast or as powerful. Most of these can achieve +40psi so in theory yes. Best way to find out is to practice at home. At least then you can always take the wheel to a petrol station to inflate if it does not work. I don't a portable one but do a search on facebook and you will find lots of posts about this. Stay safe mate. Fingers crossed I get up to Scotland this year. Catch up for whisky. Cheers Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures thanks Billy for the heads up - I’m not changing tyres anytime soon - but I like to attempt things my self. It’s the satisfaction rather than the money. I’m going to take a guess here - are you a graduate in mechanical or civil engineering? I maybe a mile off - perhaps your a wedding planner 🤣 my thing was Prosthetics so quite techy at heart - like gadgets etc - yes it had been cold but not like braemar with its -21 more -7 ish - be good to see you in the summer - ull love my manor ( as they say down souff 😆) you stay away from C19 too and be safe. Keep the vids coming. Don’t change too much - think uv got it just about right ! 👍...”🥃”..
Thanks Mr Whisky. It's great to have your support and comments on the channel. I wish I was growing quicker though, it will come. You are a mile off 😀 I'm a marketer in the pharmaceutical business. Never been in a garage but like you the satisfaction of learning about it and doing it myself is great! I am sure we will be able to travel, just hope it's not too far away. 🍺
@@BillysBikeAdventures pharma sales - my God theres a hard industry to make it in. I did a few years in med sales - became a European business manager for a bionics company co called touch bionics - give it a google. So you see there is some “cross over” also thought perhaps you were ex military - ( engineers) Mr integrity is worth more than mr big sales - I’ve got talent in spades - keep it going... “🥃”... and 🍺why not!...
HI motocomfort. Thats a really good point that i did not show in the video. I did put some on and should have shown this! Thanks for the feedback! Cheers. Billy
How is this any better than a chain drive? Servicing this difficult and complicated, and to boot, BMW doesn't even include this in their maintenance schedule. Who knows if many owners are even taking the time to do this properly.
Well I hope as. a result of this video they are doing it as its an important maintenance piece to do. A shame really that BMW don't do it, I don't know why! Better than a chain as I don't have to worry about it clean and oiling the chain each time I go out in wet weather. I rather like getting to know my bikes and how to maintain them. All part of the journey for me. Thanks for watching and your comment. Cheers. Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures Is it the same oil rating for a 2022 1250RS? I'm about to do it and I ordered this bmw Hypoid G3 axle oil and im not sure if it is the right stuff before I do the service.
Well, that “easy” procedure turned into quite a chore. Thanks for tell us about the mistakes you made, good reference for those that wouldn’t know what could happen. Plus you have a tremendous amount of patience! Well, at least on the edited video. 😄
Thanks for message. So true, my very first thoughts were how much is this going to cost me and what an absolute muppet. But thankfully all worked out and now I know so much more about my bike. Fortunately a good experience! Stay safe. Cheers Billy
Hi… appreciate this video is a few years old, but was there any issue with the snap ring on the gearbox shaft. You make no mention of it when connecting it all back together. Just wondered about it because I can’t find it either on the shaft, or on the swing arm so will have to order another one.
Thanks for the comment BFoN. Mate it really did on mine. First thought was how much is this going to cost me. But managed to stay calm, not panic and approach with a bit of 'I can do this..'. Glad it happened as I know so much more now :-). Cheers. Billy
Excellent video, one of the clearest I've seen on this process. Thanks for posting.
Hi and thanks for watching and your feedback. Great to hear it was useful. Cheers. Billy
I've watched 3 videos on this procedure now and yours was the only one to address the fact that the shaft may disconnect from the engine. Thank you for that. It is certainly something to be cautious of. Good video, good learning experience for both you and the future me when I need to do this. Thanks
HI Stan. Thanks for watching the vid and your comment. There was some panic at first when the shaft came off completely but soon turned to me being focused and getting it back on. Like you say a great learning experience. Good luck when it comes to your turn to service the final drive. Stay safe. Billy
If you disconnect the final drive, what is not necessary, you have to pay attention and need red loctite for the swingarm bolt. This was not mentioned in this video.
@@BillysBikeAdventures Side Note: I have a 2021 GSA1250 and there was a recall notice to install a valve on the swingarm/driveshaft housing that allows moisture to escape. That valve is now stock on 2022 moving forward and possibly late 2021 models. So BMW is making an effort to solve the problem.....@stan_for_adventure
Thanks Stan. I had heard this but I have not had a recall notice. I did speak to my local dealer and they said it would be done on the next service which just happens to be in January so I will be sure to mention it when booking it in. Cheers. Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures Yes...my bike was in for new tires when they installed the valve. They did a beautiful job. You would swear it was right from the factory assembly line. I spoke with the service guys and they told me that BMW sent them special tooling and a whole template thing for the retrofit.
Clear and concise, outlining the pitfalls. Thank you.
Thanks for watching and your comments. Much appreciated. Good luck. Cheers. Billy
Brilliant Video Billy thank you. I was horrified when the shaft came off the gearbox end splines because the diff end splines were rusted solid on my 2017 GS1200 25000mls. Posted for help on the GS 1200/1250 FB page and this video and an answer within an hour from Billy came up. Extremely difficult job to release the shaft from the diff splines, lots of patience and thankfull that I'm from an engineering background finally got it released after an hour. The good news is that I have peace of mind that both ends have now been lubricated. This really does need to be part of the maintenance schedule for these models at 12000mls latest and maybe yearly if you use the bike 12months of the year as I do.
Hi Robert. Fantastic you got yours sorted 👍🏼. Great to hear the video helped 👍🏼 agree it should be part of the BMW maintenance schedule. Seen too many horror stories. Thanks for the feedback 🙏. Stay safe. Billy
At least the front input splines are now thoroughly greased as well as the final drive! A well made video...thanks.
There is a silver lining to every dark cloud (although I did not see it that way for the first 5 minutes lol). Thanks for watching and you comment. Stay safe. Billy
Really good video here and nice to see you included all the hassle of disconnecting the input side of the drive as I’m sure it’s only a matter of time before this happens. Haven’t done this service to my bike yet but it’s on the list before I get out too much in 2023. Thanks for the video👍👍
Thanks NottsHandyman. Was an experience to say the least but well worth doing. Good luck with yours! Let me know how you get on! Cheers. Billy
Great video. Thank you. Good thing there was a bedroom pump thingy handy.
Ha ha thank you. It was useful 👍🏼
Good informative video. Like that way that you show the possible pitfalls too. Just one point, I think that you over did it a bit with the moly grease. On the splines yes, but painted all over the CV joint will do no good, it will just fling off making a mess. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for you message Bob. Good point, thanks. My thinking was that to keep them rust free as well but understand what you are saying. Cheers. Stay safe Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures I agree with you; while it may or may not be "messy", I have seen pictures of others' u-joint / CV joint with rust on them. I'd rather wipe off excess grease, than have to remove rust or worry whether the universal joint is rusting.
Peace of mind is worth something, eh?
VERY good tutorial, :) quick tip from when I did similar service on other bikes (Will be doing my GS this spring) I always remove the fill bolt before I remove the drain bolt, I've had a few times where the fill bolt was seized in the final drive and would not come out. Better to know that BEFORE you drain the oil :).
That is a very good tip! Thanks for sharing! and thanks for watching. Cheers Billy
Thank you for posting. Am about to have a go at doing mine for the first time - and this has proved most useful.
Hi Nick. Thanks for watching and your comment! I do not have a background in doing these types of things but believe you have to give it a go. I really enjoyed the learning experience of this so good luck to you and let me know if you have any questions. Merry Christmas. Billy
Very nice vieo and liked the fact when you explained the mistake in detail as well. I see myself running into something like that.
Hi there. Thanks for watching and your comments! The mistake was initially as I thought I was out of my depth but took a deep breath and got stuck in. Really enjoyed doing it. Will repeat the process at the end of this summer. Good luck if you have a go. Its very rewarding to do it yourself! Cheers Billy
Great video. Very informative. Thanks. 🇦🇺
Thanks and hope it helped! Cheers. Billy
Good video Billy, splines are a pain in the ass, they have to perfectly aligned before entering, good patience and self belief well done 👍
Thanks Simon. I can tell you that my first reaction was, typical, what a pillock and how much was this going to cost me. Then a quick harsh word with myself to get on with it and gladly, it all worked out. Having said that, I am yet to get out on it since putting it back together 🙏 Stay safe, Billy.
@@BillysBikeAdventures I'm sure it will be fine, 👍
If the bike has been sitting in an unheated garage or similar I’d use a warm air blower or a heater to warm up the final drive housing. Gear oil is quite a thick oil so warming will help it drain more efficiently along with removing the fill plug.
Hi Hornet6. Thanks for watching and your comment. A nice tip! Cheers Billy
Great video Billy, thank you!
Bit of a pain, the drive shaft disconnecting from the engine end.......the silver lining though is at least we can all look out for that problem 😊, all be it at you expense ☹️
Hi Stags7075. Thanks for you comment. I really did think at the time when it happened that it was going to cost me a fortune. Had a word with myself, told myself to get a grip and get on with it. Glad I did as I know much more now. Cheers. Billy
Thank you for sharing! Well done.
Hi James. Thanks for watching and your comment. Hope you found it useful. Good luck. Billy 👍
In line with the comments from others, an excellent video which demonstrates the main fear that I and others have by tackling this task.
However, for those like me who have an RT the task is made more complicated because the right hand peg bracket has to be removed to gain access to the front boot, as I mention below. But the bracket is attached to the rear brake master cylinder which is secured at the back. If any RT owners can offer suggestions here to simplify matters then much appreciated.
Thanks beemer 1200. For watching, your feedback and support for others. This is exactly one of the reasons that I started the channel, to help others and build a community of support for others. I don't have all the answers but as a community we can help each other. Thanks again 👍. Cheers. Billy
Hello thanks for a very good video. I have watched quite a few. I decided yesterday to service my drive shaft on my 2018 RT. Everything went so smoothly. I could not believe it, till I tried to drop the final drive. Uh oh! She was seized to the shaft. Lol. Ended up removing the whole drive with the shaft. No moly from the factory on either end. Not sure where the water came from. Did soak up some with a rag in the swing arm. Anyways, it took a ton of patience and SEAFOAM CREEP penetrant to loosen it off. Very gentle hammering to nudge the shaft off. I used Loctite 8012 65% moly on the splines. I will be checking this on a frequent basis. The front boot is a pain I find. But it got some silicone grease also. I’ll check it again at next oil change. Hopefully no more water.
Hi there. Thanks for watching the video! Glad it helped in doing you own service on the final drive! Sounds like you had a tougher time of it than me. I will be doing mine again the coming months as its a great opportunity to give the bike a thorough clean as well, brake calipers esp after being out through the winter. Stay safe. Billy
I have a 2009 RT and will soon attempt mine. Haynes and Clymer manuals say remove both left and right hand footpeg brackets. However, the right hand one is attached to the rear brake master cylinder that is secured to the bracket from the back. So my question is, how did you separate the cylinder from the bracket in order to access the rubber boot on the gearbox end?
@@guitarplayerwannabee hi. The drive shaft comes out once the final drive separated. Then the front (transmission side) boot is free. Your drive shaft maybe attached with a clip at the transmission end (mine wasn’t). If so a tug will get it off. Hopefully that helps you. Lots of videos out there. Guys are super helpful.
*** I just reread your post and you have an 09. I have 2018. Now that maybe different.
Hi Beemer1200. Sounds like the welder's experience in the message below is the guidance you need. I have no experience with an RT so hopefully you find the welder's message useful. Good luck and do come back if you need more info. Cheers. Billy 👍
@the welder thanks for the information on the beemer1200's question! Cheers. Billy
Had the same problem when I done my 1200 rs, a proper pain in the butt. You need to invest in a bike ramp, they are godsend, saves the back and knees.
Hi Brian. You are so right. A bike ramp would be brilliant but no space to store it but would love one. Thabks for watching and your comments. Cheers. Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures Billy, I park mine on the ramp so it never moves, also if you put the ramp up and hide the handle it's extra security 😎
Hadn't thought of that 👍🙌
Hello Billy, How has your front shock been since you have owned the bike? mine has just started leaking, and its a proper mission to remove it, just wondering if you have done it. Cheers, Billy.
Great video. Thanks. Just a guess, but it might have helped to jack the swing arm up so you had a straight shot when putting the drive shaft back in.
Hi Paul. Thanks for your comment. I was not aware that the swing arm could move. If I had know that I may very well have done that, a straight connection would have saved a lot of time, anxiety and frustration. Cheers. Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures You're welcome. Jacking it up from the bottom would compress the spring, simulating load on the bike. Of course, you'd have to be careful that you didn't jack the center stand off the ground. Having another person sitting on the bike might help that (being careful of course).
I bought an R1250RS a few months ago. Hopefully I won't have to do this job for a long time.
Hi Billy - nice clear video - thanks for sharing. I did this exact same procedure a few days ago, fortunately without the problems that you encountered with the shaft disconnecting itself at the engine end! I’d watched a few other videos on the same subject and picked up some useful tips. I think using a bolt jack to take the weight of the final drive is probably easier than the strap you were using - that looked a bit awkward. Also, I wasn’t sure that using a silicon sealant to make the boot watertight was such a great idea - it might prove messy when you next do the job? I used a white silicon based grease for this purpose. Final question - what would you recommend for cleaning up the inside of the exhaust? Mine has a lot of tar spots and general crud which is tricky to get off. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Simon
Hi Simon. Thanks for watching the video and your message! 👍 I agree with you on the car jack to hold the final drive up, it was awkward! Glad you did not have the issue I did. It took me about half an hour of being incredibly patient with myself to get it back on 🙏.. A great product for get tar of exhaust is AutoSol metal polish. Rub over area leaving a layer. Leave for a few minutes and then polish off. Repeat if not all off. It is good stuff. You can leave the polish on for a bit longer before polishing off. Use a glove to rub polish on with finger. Should work a treat. Stay safe. Billy
Hi Billy, thanks for the video! Quick question regarding the final drive fill...why do you align the holes in the final drive? Are you trying to get the oil into the inner hole or just into the drive housing? Thanks!
Hey. Correct on the oil through the inner hole. Cheers. Billy
Beautiful video, I wanted to ask you but does the cardan oil drain screw unscrew clockwise?
HI Alberto. Thanks for watching the video and your comment! Yes, it unscrews clockwise as your wrench would be upside down. SO the setting on your wrench are as normal for tightening / loosening. Good luck with it if you are going to do it. Well worth checking as its not on the BMW maintenance schedule. Stay safe. Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures thanks and hope to see more of your videos soon
Great video…. How did you know at the time that you were disconnecting the shaft from the engine end??
Hi Phil. Thanks for watching the video and your question! Mainly due to the fact that the shaft pulled with the final drive as I tried to release it. So as the final drive dropped and did not separate from the shaft at the end I was working on, I was left with only one very unfortunate answer. That said I am glad it happened as I now know more about my bike. Hope that helps. Let me know if at more questions. Stay safe. Billy 👍
Hi I wouldnt say that was a mistake wouldn't you want to lube both ends of the drive shaft
Hey. The fact that it came off was opportunistic to grease both ends. However, I was definitely not planning for that but a good experience. Cheers. Billy
I forgot to mention that Grumpy Goat has produced 3 videos on youtube re lubing the splines. He explains that to avoid pulling the shaft away from the transmission, you need to place the shaft in a particular orientation before lowering the final drive housing too much.
Oh thanks Beemer1200 I will take a look at that, nice one! Cheers Billy
Brave man 👍
Thanks Andrew! If you could have seen my face when the input yoke came off the splines attached to the engine, it was very much more of 'stupid man' lol. Fortunately I got it sorted 🙏. Stay safe. Billy
Hi Billy Thoroughly enjoyed the video. I have watched a few of these now with a view to sometime very soon, carrying out the rear spline greasing. I found your video particularly interesting because the glimpses I managed to get of the female/male splines suggested both were in good condition and free from corrosion in the main. So why I wonder did you have an issue parting the shaft at the wheel end? Just looking at what you were doing, it does rather seem as though you were tugging against a reasonably taught strap (at least the left side viewing from the rear looked taught but the right was perhaps a little slack). So on reflection do you feel this might have caused the issue you encountered with detachment of the shaft at the engine end? Also where did you attain the speed sensor torque figure? There is a well know BMW guru (Jim Von Baden) who advocates 5nm on his website, so curious to know if your value came from a BMW manual. Thanks for your help.
Hi AdvancedRider. Thanks for watching the video and your comments/questions! I have no idea why such a challenge to disengage the shaft drive from the splines at the final drive end that resulted in completed disengagement. The strap was always loose enough as I loosened each time the final drive dropped and at the point of the disengagement the strap was still loose so unfortunately that was not the issue. The speed sensor info I got from my riders manual. It states that the front is 8Nm so have assumed the same for the rear in the absence of that information being in the manual. Not sure why the rear speed sensor is not in the riders manual but the front is. Hope that answers all your questions! Let me know if you have any others. Good luck when you come to service your final drive. i will be doing the same again this winter (hopefully without the same issues). Stay safe. Billy
Have just stripped my 1250GS drive shaft out to find that the Diff side spline is seized on the drive shaft. Have now got it soaking overnight in WD40. Man I hope it comes off tomorrow as there's no way of getting any pulley draws in. Any ideas?
Hi Paul. Ah mate that sounds like a tough job. The only thing I can suggest is release fluid. Hope the soak in WD40 had some I pact. Good luck and let me know how you get on with it. Cheers. Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures Managed to get it off, ended up having to gently heat the UV joint spray more WD40 then bang it off using a parralel punch. Not easy.
Found this video by The Bike Stig, Properly Servicing Shaft Final Drive on the BMW R1200GS. Which highlights the same issue and sorts it similar to the way I did. Tho, I ended up damaging the rubber boot so have had to order a new one 😮💨.
Cheers Billy and take care
🤘
Mate so glad to hear you got it sorted. Lots of fun putting it back on after a good clean, service and greasing. Good luck 🤞👌
Does the white silicone rubber sealant that you used on the rubber boot cure or does it remain spreadable indefinitely. I was involved in a bit of a debate as I used a flexible sealant that cures yet remains extremely flexible and can't be wiped off. The person involved claimed only grease was to be used. I have not had any issues and don't foresee any.
Hi Jack. Thanks for watching the video and your question. The one I used remains flexible but not spreadable. I do accept that grease is a great solution but I personally want a bit more protection. Its a personal choice. Its your bike so you get to choose. There will always be an alternative point of view. Thanks and stay safe. Billy
Hi Billy - I was watching a fairly old vid of yours on the subject of tyre changing - the list of tools needed inc the balance thing and the compressor all starts to get a bit expensive - anyway my question is ( and I hope it’s not a silly one ) does a £20 portable tyre inflator have enough juice to reseal the tyre onto the bead - the kind u plug into the 12v power outlet or is a much more powerful compressor needed? Thanks “🥃”...
Hey Mr Whisky. Good to hear from you. Hows the snow up there. -21, chilly, hope you and family are well. Good question! In short most are powerful enough to get the tyre back on to the bead. The pressure is not as fast or as powerful. Most of these can achieve +40psi so in theory yes. Best way to find out is to practice at home. At least then you can always take the wheel to a petrol station to inflate if it does not work. I don't a portable one but do a search on facebook and you will find lots of posts about this. Stay safe mate. Fingers crossed I get up to Scotland this year. Catch up for whisky. Cheers Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures thanks Billy for the heads up - I’m not changing tyres anytime soon - but I like to attempt things my self. It’s the satisfaction rather than the money. I’m going to take a guess here - are you a graduate in mechanical or civil engineering? I maybe a mile off - perhaps your a wedding planner 🤣 my thing was Prosthetics so quite techy at heart - like gadgets etc - yes it had been cold but not like braemar with its -21 more -7 ish - be good to see you in the summer - ull love my manor ( as they say down souff 😆) you stay away from C19 too and be safe. Keep the vids coming. Don’t change too much - think uv got it just about right ! 👍...”🥃”..
Thanks Mr Whisky. It's great to have your support and comments on the channel. I wish I was growing quicker though, it will come. You are a mile off 😀 I'm a marketer in the pharmaceutical business. Never been in a garage but like you the satisfaction of learning about it and doing it myself is great! I am sure we will be able to travel, just hope it's not too far away. 🍺
@@BillysBikeAdventures pharma sales - my God theres a hard industry to make it in. I did a few years in med sales - became a European business manager for a bionics company co called touch bionics - give it a google. So you see there is some “cross over” also thought perhaps you were ex military - ( engineers) Mr integrity is worth more than mr big sales - I’ve got talent in spades - keep it going... “🥃”... and 🍺why not!...
That was meant to read - you have got talent in spades - Me - I struggle to dress myself in the morning - lol 😂
👍
Cheers Nigel👍🏼
Good job! But were is the red loctite for the swingarm bolt?
HI motocomfort. Thats a really good point that i did not show in the video. I did put some on and should have shown this! Thanks for the feedback! Cheers. Billy
How is this any better than a chain drive? Servicing this difficult and complicated, and to boot, BMW doesn't even include this in their maintenance schedule. Who knows if many owners are even taking the time to do this properly.
Well I hope as. a result of this video they are doing it as its an important maintenance piece to do. A shame really that BMW don't do it, I don't know why! Better than a chain as I don't have to worry about it clean and oiling the chain each time I go out in wet weather. I rather like getting to know my bikes and how to maintain them. All part of the journey for me. Thanks for watching and your comment. Cheers. Billy
@@BillysBikeAdventures Is it the same oil rating for a 2022 1250RS? I'm about to do it and I ordered this bmw Hypoid G3 axle oil and im not sure if it is the right stuff before I do the service.
Sure is Garrett!
Lost a little credibility on that billy boy
How come?
Well, that “easy” procedure turned into quite a chore. Thanks for tell us about the mistakes you made, good reference for those that wouldn’t know what could happen. Plus you have a tremendous amount of patience! Well, at least on the edited video. 😄
Thanks for message. So true, my very first thoughts were how much is this going to cost me and what an absolute muppet. But thankfully all worked out and now I know so much more about my bike. Fortunately a good experience! Stay safe. Cheers Billy
Hi… appreciate this video is a few years old, but was there any issue with the snap ring on the gearbox shaft. You make no mention of it when connecting it all back together. Just wondered about it because I can’t find it either on the shaft, or on the swing arm so will have to order another one.
Hey, thanks for watching and the question. No issues form my end with the snap ring. Did not come off fortunately. Cheers. Billy
Informative video Billy, great stuff, don’t think I will be having a go, as pulling the shaft out would really piss on my chips
Thanks for the comment BFoN. Mate it really did on mine. First thought was how much is this going to cost me. But managed to stay calm, not panic and approach with a bit of 'I can do this..'. Glad it happened as I know so much more now :-). Cheers. Billy