I didn't want to link to anything specific besides the Blue Robotics stuff. So I'll just ballpark the other stuff: Thruster, Commander, ESC combo - $310 Waterproof connectors - about $17 per set Tap set - about $25 Various sealants and threadlocker - probably another $15-$20 Stainless steel hardware - huge guess since I bought the M6 in bulk, probably less than $10 for everything Wire - guessing small rolls of the 2 and 3 conductor could be found for $30 total That's $430. Battery - $150 Brings the total just under $600. 3D printer - $300-$400 maybe? That'd total up to just under $1000 which I'm shocked is still about equal to buying the system premade. I thought for sure it would've cost way more to start from almost nothing. Thanks for the question. appreciate it!
Would love to see this same project done with the T500 thruster, much more useable level of thrust for larger kayaks. Great video, very professionally done.
I'm considering it. I'm not sure if it can run on 12v, which is why I opted for the T200. I didn't want to haul two batteries, or one larger one. But it might be fun to try, anyway.
Very cool project. Your video was edited very well, audio levels were great, music wasn't distracting AND you included links to all the 3D printed stuff. Thank you! Thinking about adding one of these to my SUP when using it as a kayak.
Thanks, this was my first time doing any kind of "maker" content and it was a lot of extra work, and still didn't come out as perfect as I wanted it to. A setup like this would be killer on a SUP.!
You can avoid the BR thruster commander $$ by getting a servo tester from Amazon or Ebay (with the slide switch on the side so you can keep it in Manual mode, (important) to send PWM to any rc boat esc to power the T200. Also, put 1/4" 'hardware cloth' (square mesh screen) cones over your thruster duct to help keep rope, fishing line, and other debris out of the prop. ROV owner.
I had a thruster setup. The thing about Thrusters is that they are extremely inefficient. They pull much more wattage to move you than a trilling motor.
Napkin math has the T200 at about .04 lbs of thrust per watt, a Minn Kota Endura at .08. lbs per watt. So yeah, you're probably right! But that Endura weighs as much as my kayak. This entire setup including the battery weighs probably 5lbs and doesn't need extra supports to hang the trolling motor on. It's all about tradeoffs!
I am looking at the same thing for a Hobie Compass. The manufacturer says that 16v is ideal. Texas power paddle uses 18.5v (5s13p). Wondering how much performance you get out of the 12v vs stepping up to 18.5v? Also how long does it run? BTW the M200 thruster is what the Gen 3 from Texas is using. I will probably opt for that instead.
The Blue Robotics product page has performance charts at various voltages you can take a look at. It's definitely a step up. If I didn't need 12v for a charter, I'd definitely consider a higher voltage battery. I'm not really interested in adding a buck converter into the system to transform a higher voltage down to 12v for my Garmin.
I enjoyed it. The only thing I would add would be a 3D printed knob for the potentiometer. Either a larger knurled knob or something that could easily be turned using just your thumb. Great video!
Actually awesome idea, I don't know why I didn't think of it. I felt like I was able to ride it into forward with my thumb pretty easily but quickly throttling down or into reverse was a little more tricky. Larger knob is on my list now!
I've been wanting to for years. Bought an ROV thruster and everything, just can't be bothered to actually install any of it. You can definitely do it for a lot cheaper than the Blue Robotics gear.
Amazing work! Adding this to my project list, many thanks for uploading the STLs. I have one of the folding kayaks that can't support any heavy motors so this is awesome. I just have to figure out a steering solution for my setup now or hope my rudder is straight enough xD
I'm not as enthusiastic, so I'd just have bought an extra oar, a 4 or 5 ft flexible drill bit shaft for my battery operated drill and clamped a propeller near the end of the oar and popped it in the water when I needed it. This way looks cool though.
The prop on a drillbit is such a good idea lmao My first attempt was strapped to a PVC pipe and it just had too much thrust to be comfortable. The Blue Robotics website does show someone using a thruster on a paddleboard paddle though, so you're definitely onto something.
Hey OneWildTurkey, Ive been wanting to know from someone firsthand if that propeller on a drill motor works well? I have a 12' fishing kayak and a slew of good battery op drill motors, is it a go?
@@Mainbusfail I haven't done it myself. I just got the idea from seeing some of the small boats in Vietnam with huge motors. When I saw this video for a kayak, it started me thinking.
@@Mainbusfail The Blue Robotics website has a chart that estimates the T200 thruster on an 18v supply spins from 500-3700 rpm depending on the throttle. You'd probably want to compare your drill's specs to that chart just as a ballpark to see if it's worth it. I ran mine at 12v which their chart says is about 2700rpm max, so about equal to an 18v cordless drill. If your drill's max rpm is much lower than 2700 rpm, something else is gonna have to change to keep performance equal/better, because I doubt you'd be impressed with a max rpm lower than that with the same size prop I was running.
In the followup fishing trip video, I tried to run it as much as possible (with a Garmin running too) and it lasted me almost the whole trip, voltage dropped too low as I was approaching my launch. I'd wager it was 2 solid hours total, though the trip was longer than that. You'd need something bigger to run it as your main motor for sure.
It's never really seemed to make a difference for me, whether the threadlocker goes on the bolt or the nut. For mounting the thruster, I needed the bolts partially in to support the thruster, so I did it that way. I tried to just dab a bit on the head side as well for good measure since I wasn't quite sure where the threads would engage to, but that tube was just about out and was taking a lot of force to get anything out. Good tips though, thanks for watching!
I'm seeing about 3mph on gps, but that's in some strong winds and current. It's not winning any races, but it's about as fast as me casually pedaling the mirage drive.
Grab the 3d model file from the link in the description and send it in to any of the 3D printer services, I'm sure it won't cost much. I recommend printing in resin rather than typical PLA material, as PLA absorbs water and might break down over time.
@tedtramonte appreciate your work, I was building something similar and found M200 motor is the exact one used buy a thruster seller, thanks for making this video
I spent dozens of hours in CAD making the parts I used here. Feel free to mine your own copper to smelt wire to wind for your own electric motor, and mine lithium to make a battery. I'll be fishing. Thanks for watching!
I’m not sure squeaks understands… anything? I wonder what does fit their description of “building”? Maybe it’s the design and printing that throws them off
@ how about the five boats I have built in my life time from raw materials?? I think I know more than you . He went out bought parts already made and designed and put them together that’s not building anything
@@tedtramonte well I chopped my own trees and planed them down and built a few strip plank boats . I even casted my own nails at my forge . Lmao you tried I’ll give you credit
My dad insisted I should just strap on his old trolling motor. It would certainly have more thrust. The Hobie Lynx is kind of unique in its construction, you can't drill into it at all. I couldn't think of any way to mount a heavy trolling motor without drastically increasing the weight of the kayak by building up some kind of gunwale to hang it on. On a beefier kayak like a Pro Angler I imagine it wouldn't be much of an issue.
@@tedtramonte There are little motors out there. You can use hose clamps to attach things without drilling. Also, you can fiberglass it in place and use the battery to counterbalance the weight. You probably would need a bigger boat though.
Wonder what the total cost would be?
I didn't want to link to anything specific besides the Blue Robotics stuff. So I'll just ballpark the other stuff:
Thruster, Commander, ESC combo - $310
Waterproof connectors - about $17 per set
Tap set - about $25
Various sealants and threadlocker - probably another $15-$20
Stainless steel hardware - huge guess since I bought the M6 in bulk, probably less than $10 for everything
Wire - guessing small rolls of the 2 and 3 conductor could be found for $30 total
That's $430.
Battery - $150
Brings the total just under $600.
3D printer - $300-$400 maybe?
That'd total up to just under $1000 which I'm shocked is still about equal to buying the system premade. I thought for sure it would've cost way more to start from almost nothing.
Thanks for the question. appreciate it!
Would love to see this same project done with the T500 thruster, much more useable level of thrust for larger kayaks. Great video, very professionally done.
I'm considering it. I'm not sure if it can run on 12v, which is why I opted for the T200. I didn't want to haul two batteries, or one larger one. But it might be fun to try, anyway.
Very cool project. Your video was edited very well, audio levels were great, music wasn't distracting AND you included links to all the 3D printed stuff. Thank you! Thinking about adding one of these to my SUP when using it as a kayak.
Thanks, this was my first time doing any kind of "maker" content and it was a lot of extra work, and still didn't come out as perfect as I wanted it to. A setup like this would be killer on a SUP.!
You can avoid the BR thruster commander $$ by getting a servo tester from Amazon or Ebay (with the slide switch on the side so you can keep it in Manual mode, (important) to send PWM to any rc boat esc to power the T200. Also, put 1/4" 'hardware cloth' (square mesh screen) cones over your thruster duct to help keep rope, fishing line, and other debris out of the prop. ROV owner.
I had a thruster setup. The thing about Thrusters is that they are extremely inefficient. They pull much more wattage to move you than a trilling motor.
Napkin math has the T200 at about .04 lbs of thrust per watt, a Minn Kota Endura at .08. lbs per watt. So yeah, you're probably right! But that Endura weighs as much as my kayak. This entire setup including the battery weighs probably 5lbs and doesn't need extra supports to hang the trolling motor on. It's all about tradeoffs!
I am looking at the same thing for a Hobie Compass. The manufacturer says that 16v is ideal. Texas power paddle uses 18.5v (5s13p). Wondering how much performance you get out of the 12v vs stepping up to 18.5v? Also how long does it run? BTW the M200 thruster is what the Gen 3 from Texas is using. I will probably opt for that instead.
The Blue Robotics product page has performance charts at various voltages you can take a look at. It's definitely a step up. If I didn't need 12v for a charter, I'd definitely consider a higher voltage battery. I'm not really interested in adding a buck converter into the system to transform a higher voltage down to 12v for my Garmin.
I enjoyed it. The only thing I would add would be a 3D printed knob for the potentiometer. Either a larger knurled knob or something that could easily be turned using just your thumb. Great video!
Actually awesome idea, I don't know why I didn't think of it. I felt like I was able to ride it into forward with my thumb pretty easily but quickly throttling down or into reverse was a little more tricky. Larger knob is on my list now!
@@tedtramonte I look forward to whatever you come up with!
I've been wanting to for years. Bought an ROV thruster and everything, just can't be bothered to actually install any of it. You can definitely do it for a lot cheaper than the Blue Robotics gear.
Amazing work! Adding this to my project list, many thanks for uploading the STLs. I have one of the folding kayaks that can't support any heavy motors so this is awesome. I just have to figure out a steering solution for my setup now or hope my rudder is straight enough xD
I'm not as enthusiastic, so I'd just have bought an extra oar, a 4 or 5 ft flexible drill bit shaft for my battery operated drill and clamped a propeller near the end of the oar and popped it in the water when I needed it.
This way looks cool though.
The prop on a drillbit is such a good idea lmao My first attempt was strapped to a PVC pipe and it just had too much thrust to be comfortable. The Blue Robotics website does show someone using a thruster on a paddleboard paddle though, so you're definitely onto something.
Hey OneWildTurkey, Ive been wanting to know from someone firsthand if that propeller on a drill motor works well? I have a 12' fishing kayak and a slew of good battery op drill motors, is it a go?
@@Mainbusfail I haven't done it myself. I just got the idea from seeing some of the small boats in Vietnam with huge motors. When I saw this video for a kayak, it started me thinking.
@@Mainbusfail The Blue Robotics website has a chart that estimates the T200 thruster on an 18v supply spins from 500-3700 rpm depending on the throttle. You'd probably want to compare your drill's specs to that chart just as a ballpark to see if it's worth it. I ran mine at 12v which their chart says is about 2700rpm max, so about equal to an 18v cordless drill. If your drill's max rpm is much lower than 2700 rpm, something else is gonna have to change to keep performance equal/better, because I doubt you'd be impressed with a max rpm lower than that with the same size prop I was running.
how much range/ run time do you get on that cell?
In the followup fishing trip video, I tried to run it as much as possible (with a Garmin running too) and it lasted me almost the whole trip, voltage dropped too low as I was approaching my launch. I'd wager it was 2 solid hours total, though the trip was longer than that. You'd need something bigger to run it as your main motor for sure.
4:25 People just use heat-set inserts for adding strong threads to FDM prints.
Tip: threadlock goes on the threads of the screw before you insert them, not after. Also just a light coat, not a drowning.
It's never really seemed to make a difference for me, whether the threadlocker goes on the bolt or the nut. For mounting the thruster, I needed the bolts partially in to support the thruster, so I did it that way. I tried to just dab a bit on the head side as well for good measure since I wasn't quite sure where the threads would engage to, but that tube was just about out and was taking a lot of force to get anything out. Good tips though, thanks for watching!
What speed does that move your kayak?
I'm seeing about 3mph on gps, but that's in some strong winds and current. It's not winning any races, but it's about as fast as me casually pedaling the mirage drive.
Nice setup mate 👏🏻
Can I buy the thruster mount?
Grab the 3d model file from the link in the description and send it in to any of the 3D printer services, I'm sure it won't cost much. I recommend printing in resin rather than typical PLA material, as PLA absorbs water and might break down over time.
@tedtramonte appreciate your work, I was building something similar and found M200 motor is the exact one used buy a thruster seller, thanks for making this video
The real question is :
Did it help you catch more fish?
The first trip with it got me my first Snook (check the latest video), so if nothing else, it's a good luck charm!
Prices would have been handy 😊
Check the pinned comment!
Nice 💪
You didn’t make anything you assembled lol that’s like building a puzzle you bought and saying you made it
I spent dozens of hours in CAD making the parts I used here. Feel free to mine your own copper to smelt wire to wind for your own electric motor, and mine lithium to make a battery. I'll be fishing. Thanks for watching!
I’m not sure squeaks understands… anything?
I wonder what does fit their description of “building”?
Maybe it’s the design and printing that throws them off
@ how about the five boats I have built in my life time from raw materials?? I think I know more than you . He went out bought parts already made and designed and put them together that’s not building anything
@@tedtramonte well I chopped my own trees and planed them down and built a few strip plank boats . I even casted my own nails at my forge . Lmao you tried I’ll give you credit
@@squeaks3814 I'd love to watch that video man. Let me know when it's up!
How about a trolling motor? Much more power and still small.
My dad insisted I should just strap on his old trolling motor. It would certainly have more thrust. The Hobie Lynx is kind of unique in its construction, you can't drill into it at all. I couldn't think of any way to mount a heavy trolling motor without drastically increasing the weight of the kayak by building up some kind of gunwale to hang it on. On a beefier kayak like a Pro Angler I imagine it wouldn't be much of an issue.
@@tedtramonte There are little motors out there. You can use hose clamps to attach things without drilling. Also, you can fiberglass it in place and use the battery to counterbalance the weight. You probably would need a bigger boat though.