How long does the repair last? I’m just thinking you have compressor windings or oil breaking down and capillary tube will restrict again. I currently have a restriction on my refrigerator and am going to try this. Thanks!
This procedure doesn't always work, it depends on what kind of restriction you have. Usually cap tubs get clogged with oil or sludge which can be dissolved with lacquer thinner. This solution works best with a partial restriction, if you can't draw the lacquer thinner into the cap tube to dissolve the sludge it won't work.
@@Jaredisking1023 just buy a new cap tube. They're like 15-20 bucks from your local hvacr supplier.. Call the manufacturer of whatever you're working on to determine the length and inside diameter. I don't even mess around with cap tubes, if it's restricted you're so much better off just replacing it. I've "unplugged" them many times in past, it never lasts. Throw a C032capt drier on there too. They are great at preventing cap tube restrictions and they have access built in
@@Marketto8777 There are many contributors to restrictions. Usually is just oil that gunks up but other things can happen too, say you have a compressor burn out and varnish on the windings breaks down, getting in the system. Are you doing the work yourself? If so you really have nothing to lose other than the small amount of money you spend on the metering tube. Put a C032CAPT drier on there and braze the cap tube directly into the drier. I put those driers on virtually any cap tube system (except HC of course) and they work very well. It also gives you permanent access on the high side.
My Kitchenaid fridge and freezer compartments are not getting cold. I replaced the power relay switch already. Compressor, fans and capacitor are working. Within 5 mins of the compressor turning on, ice starts building up on the evaporator tube where it connects with the capillary tube. Do I have a blockage or restriction there and if so how do I fix it? If not what else could it be?
I’m not sure if I could help you with a Kitchen Aid, my speciality is Sub-Zero. However if the evaporator coil is only partially frosted you could have one of three possible problems: a Freon leak, a partial restriction, or a faulty compressor. It’s hard to diagnose a refrigerator without checking the pressure in the sealed system.
How can you tell if a Capillary Tube is Blocked? I am working on my Kenmore Elite Refrigerator. I have Replaced the Compressor, Vacuumed the System and Added R134A but my Low Side Gauge stays at 10inHg!? High Side is at 100.
I wondered about brake cleaner, it’s formulated to flash off and not leave a residue. I suspect if there was even a small amount left in the tube that it would flash off completely under vacuum and be evacuated. I have a big 48” Kitchenaid that I’m convinced has a plugged cap tube, and a failing compressor. Compressor is on order, but I will need to clear the cap tube. This was another great video in helping me establish the tools to potentially have to conquer a plugged cap tube, without replacing it. My anxiety level has dropped a bit more.
0:29 So, how do you know the length of Cap tube and inside diameter proper measurements for anyone refrigerator/freezer? Is there a chart somewhere? Inadequate freezing conditions may also be due to that sounds like.
The majority of the cap tubes on Sub-Zero are .030 id, the length depends on the model, but if you're looking to replace a cap tube on a non subzero the length would be on the box that the cap tube comes in. It's based on horsepower and temp range and refrigerant type. Go to jbind.com and look up application chart for capillary tubing.
@@SubZeroSpecialists Thanks Bro! In addition to cap tube probably being clogged, a modified cap tube's length and inside diameter might be the issue if ice cream is not freezing properly, assuming no leaks and good freon charge.
@@SubZeroSpecialists yes bro. But if the Cap tube has been changed or adjusted in anyway, non pursuant to specifications, that could be an issue as well. Vacuum on low side yes, but a possibility is that the cap tube is wrong in length and inside diameter as you said.
Thank you, but no way, shape or form practical to do such in the real world 😢 Nightmares I had with cap tubes :( How can we go away from such? No more pistons or fixed orifices in AC systems very soon. All going to TXV metering. Cap tubes are the inefficient simple simple things that can turn to be a super bitch diagnosing and replacement like/ unlike shaded pole motors! I hate all cap tube systems. They were good when there were only about 3 refrigerants that we used with mineral oil in the systems 😊
I don’t see manufactures doing away with capillary tube systems anytime soon, at least for residential refrigerators. As we speak many new systems are using R600A, Butane for refrigerant, that will be a game changer, better for the environment. But I agree with you on the probability of restrictions with cap tubes, but it’s not the cap tube itself, it’s the oil.
Did you weigh in the exact amount of freon? If so and you’re running in a vacuum shut the compressor off and if your gauge stays in a vacuum then you have a restriction. Check your solder joints-make sure your capillary tune isn’t blocked buy disconnecting the cap tube from the drier, pressurizing the system and checking the flow through the cap tube.
Wow! Never thought of using a heat gun to loosen up the waxy restriction. Clever.
That tool is a air hose coupler and a 1/8" NPT process port soldered together
Good stuff!!!
I have the same vacuum pump. Serial 195.
👍👍
How long does the repair last? I’m just thinking you have compressor windings or oil breaking down and capillary tube will restrict again. I currently have a restriction on my refrigerator and am going to try this. Thanks!
This procedure doesn't always work, it depends on what kind of restriction you have. Usually cap tubs get clogged with oil or sludge which can be dissolved with lacquer thinner. This solution works best with a partial restriction, if you can't draw the lacquer thinner into the cap tube to dissolve the sludge it won't work.
@@SubZeroSpecialists mine is just a partial restriction so this may work for me. Thanks
@@Jaredisking1023 just buy a new cap tube. They're like 15-20 bucks from your local hvacr supplier.. Call the manufacturer of whatever you're working on to determine the length and inside diameter. I don't even mess around with cap tubes, if it's restricted you're so much better off just replacing it. I've "unplugged" them many times in past, it never lasts. Throw a C032capt drier on there too. They are great at preventing cap tube restrictions and they have access built in
@@AnUnapologeticApologist Changing it is also my best bet. What i worry about is, will also a new house get restricted again?
@@Marketto8777 There are many contributors to restrictions. Usually is just oil that gunks up but other things can happen too, say you have a compressor burn out and varnish on the windings breaks down, getting in the system. Are you doing the work yourself? If so you really have nothing to lose other than the small amount of money you spend on the metering tube. Put a C032CAPT drier on there and braze the cap tube directly into the drier. I put those driers on virtually any cap tube system (except HC of course) and they work very well. It also gives you permanent access on the high side.
the device you made to connect the manifold hose to the air compressor hose is made of what conponents
It’s a process port
5:57 - You mean like that AC powered vacuum pump sitting next to you?
My Kitchenaid fridge and freezer compartments are not getting cold. I replaced the power relay switch already. Compressor, fans and capacitor are working. Within 5 mins of the compressor turning on, ice starts building up on the evaporator tube where it connects with the capillary tube. Do I have a blockage or restriction there and if so how do I fix it? If not what else could it be?
I’m not sure if I could help you with a Kitchen Aid, my speciality is Sub-Zero. However if the evaporator coil is only partially frosted you could have one of three possible problems: a Freon leak, a partial restriction, or a faulty compressor. It’s hard to diagnose a refrigerator without checking the pressure in the sealed system.
T Villa, I have the same issue with a Maytag. what did you do to solve the problem?
Saved my ass
How can you tell if a Capillary Tube is Blocked? I am working on my Kenmore Elite Refrigerator. I have Replaced the Compressor, Vacuumed the System and Added R134A but my Low Side Gauge stays at 10inHg!? High Side is at 100.
Not blocked It be in vacuum and stay there when compress is turned off Call pump-down stage
I’ve noticed it will frost up on the side closest to the compressor
break cleaner will work too.
Okay thanks for the tip.
I wondered about brake cleaner, it’s formulated to flash off and not leave a residue. I suspect if there was even a small amount left in the tube that it would flash off completely under vacuum and be evacuated. I have a big 48” Kitchenaid that I’m convinced has a plugged cap tube, and a failing compressor. Compressor is on order, but I will need to clear the cap tube. This was another great video in helping me establish the tools to potentially have to conquer a plugged cap tube, without replacing it. My anxiety level has dropped a bit more.
0:29 So, how do you know the length of Cap tube and inside diameter proper measurements for anyone refrigerator/freezer? Is there a chart somewhere? Inadequate freezing conditions may also be due to that sounds like.
The majority of the cap tubes on Sub-Zero are .030 id, the length depends on the model, but if you're looking to replace a cap tube on a non subzero the length would be on the box that the cap tube comes in. It's based on horsepower and temp range and refrigerant type. Go to jbind.com and look up application chart for capillary tubing.
@@SubZeroSpecialists Thanks Bro! In addition to cap tube probably being clogged, a modified cap tube's length and inside diameter might be the issue if ice cream is not freezing properly, assuming no leaks and good freon charge.
@@stanleylucky a clogged cap tube wound be indicative of a deep vacuum on the low side of the system.
@@SubZeroSpecialists yes bro. But if the Cap tube has been changed or adjusted in anyway, non pursuant to specifications, that could be an issue as well. Vacuum on low side yes, but a possibility is that the cap tube is wrong in length and inside diameter as you said.
@@stanleylucky it would depend on the I.d. And length of the cap tube. The application chart should reference it.
at the video 6:30-6:32 time stamp the tool you made text a photo when possible
Chemical name
Lacquer thinner.
Thank you, but no way, shape or form practical to do such in the real world 😢
Nightmares I had with cap tubes :(
How can we go away from such?
No more pistons or fixed orifices in AC systems very soon. All going to TXV metering.
Cap tubes are the inefficient simple simple things that can turn to be a super bitch diagnosing and replacement like/ unlike shaded pole motors!
I hate all cap tube systems.
They were good when there were only about 3 refrigerants that we used with mineral oil in the systems 😊
I don’t see manufactures doing away with capillary tube systems anytime soon, at least for residential refrigerators. As we speak many new systems are using R600A, Butane for refrigerant, that will be a game changer, better for the environment. But I agree with you on the probability of restrictions with cap tubes, but it’s not the cap tube itself, it’s the oil.
Did you weigh in the exact amount of freon? If so and you’re running in a vacuum shut the compressor off and if your gauge stays in a vacuum then you have a restriction. Check your solder joints-make sure your capillary tune isn’t blocked buy disconnecting the cap tube from the drier, pressurizing the system and checking the flow through the cap tube.
Who are you talking too?
@@rigakit - He was responding to cheewurz I guess