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@@RobertL39219 Those are John Guest Locking Clips for 1/4" Tube OD (PIC1808R) available in packs of 10 or 100 for pennies.

The subzero valves we use now come with the clips and they are made in Mexico, much better than Supco, much better than that other country. What’s important to know about water valves is the duty cycle, not all valves are equal. If you put a regular valve from a refrigerator into an ice machine, such as a UC15 it will burn out.

@@stevenbachman9484 there is no relay, change the motor.

@@MAli-pj7cq I don’t have that unit in the shop anymore.

ok, do you know why subzero provide a wiring harness with that’s kit ?

@@MAli-pj7cq you’ll have to follow the instructions it’s not a popular repair. I don’t have a video at this time but it’s not that difficult to do.

@@marcwalters5145 the part number is shown in the video. Call subzero at 800-222-7820 and ask for the nearest parts distribution center

Yes you can check the solenoid coil but it’s probably the valve itself . Sounds like the plunger isn’t seating.

@@SubZeroSpecialists Yeah, lots of us 28 year old valves don't seat so well anymore. A thousand thanks for your time!

These refrigerators use a variable speed compressor that can run at different speeds depending on the fridge's needs. This allows the compressor to run at full speed when the fridge is first turned on to quickly reach the desired temperature, and then run at a slower speed to maintain that temperature. This helps to save energy because the compressor isn't constantly running at full speed.

It’s just pressed in

I’m well aware of the nightmare of replacing anything in evaporator area, including the heat exchanger, turns out it wasn’t the inverter board, it was a Freon leak, I added some Freon and the temp normalized.

@@SubZeroSpecialists that's going to be fun. They are about to find out why it's less expensive than a Subzero. It only costs a penny more to go first class.

@@tonyturner9146 you get what you pay for

If you’re not seeing anything on the display then it’s probably NG. Unfortunately they don’t make that unit anymore but parts are still available.

@@SubZeroSpecialists Roger that and thanks very much for the reply. The part is fairly expensive but I don't think I have much of a choice. Better than buying a new one! Thanks, Malcolm

Are you talking about the rubber stopper in the door hinge?

Do the corners first

We are trying… it is a subzero seal.

th-cam.com/video/k17M9_UMZaI/w-d-xo.html

Sounds like your evaporator coil is iced up. Remove the back cover and check for ice or frost build up. The only accurate way to check the compressor performance is to check the sealed system pressure, that will require special tools. Of course if the inverter is the culprit then the compressor may not be running at full speed. The part number is on the inverter.

@@SubZeroSpecialists we had a tech come and pressure test. He said there was a leak somewhere in the evaporator.He changed the refrigerator evaporator, and we are still not getting cold enough. He thinks that maybe since the design changed ( the evaporator replacement that Viking sent is a bit smaller) the filter drier might be causing a restriction. He is ordering a new filter drier and seeing if that does anything. I hope this fixes it. He checked the compressor by hooking it up to his pressure gauges and he said it’s functioning correctly….

@@jlara7596 what is the pressure in the sealed system while running? If your tech replaced the evaporator without replacing the filter drier, that’s not normal procedure, Always replace the filter drier when opening the sealed system. Did he weigh-in the Freon? It has to be exact. I need more info.

@@SubZeroSpecialists he replaced the filter drier but there was a restriction, so he put a new filter drier. Here is what the machine was reading 0-110. I have a pic of his reading but I can paste on TH-cam.he also added the exact amount of Freon that was listed on the fridge. I really don’t want to replace the fridge.

@@SubZeroSpecialists just a final update, replaced the compressor (free of charge) awesome tech! We hooked it up and noticed the evaporation fan was not spinning, for now we used another fan but having such a hard time finding a direct replacement. The freezer (1-3F) is now going strong but the fridge is at 45F ( I set the fridge to max) Is it that the replaced fan isn’t OEM? I went online to Viking and it’s about 300 bucks! Trying to locate the fan motor with the same specs is very difficult. Any guidance will help. I really appreciate all your replies. We are so close to fixing the fridge!

Is water flowing behind the paddles

Yes

Can you feel any ice forming up in the mold, is the water cold?

No the water is not cold. The inside of the unit is hot

@@davidhowell6375 your hot gas valve might be stuck open, disconnect the harness and see if that changes anything

You don’t have to remove the control, but you can remove the front panel, that will give you more access or you can blow it out with an air compressor. I use a small brush to get up and under the front panel. If you bend the fins you can use a fin comb to straighten them out.

@@SubZeroSpecialists thank you so much for the reply. I was able to get a better clean on it with a small brush thank you.

631-283-2823

It unites was brought into the shop to be refurbished.

You didn't say what model you have but if you have sensors, then you have a control board which controls the defrost cycle. Check the defrost termination switch. it could be open.

@@SubZeroSpecialists Thanks for your response. The unit is a Viking DTBB363R and yes it has control boards. The termination switch had continuity, but I replaced it and the thermister anyway. I had purchased a new multimeter that I was unfamiliar with when I started the diagnostics. My old one was lost in a fire. My initial test of the old components showed open circuits due to bad settings on the new multimeter. After reassembly yesterday, the freezer reads 0 degrees and the refrigerator is at 48 degrees. I found a flow chart on line to work out trouble shooting the interactions between the HV and LV control boards as well as attempting to manually force a defrost cycle by holding down two buttons. Sound about right to you?

@@bflat1894 yes. You could also peruse our tech help files on my site aaronsrefrigeration.com, we have some info for that model. Is the freezer frosting up or is it icing up? Check the drain also, make sure the water is draining out. Also try connecting thrower directly to the heater and see if it heats up, it should draw about 3.5-4 amps.

@@SubZeroSpecialists I'll be sure to check out the site for the information on the model. The freezer has in the past iced up as to a sheet across the bottom or it has just frosted up across the back panel. When thawing it out, I always make sure the drain hole is open and that the tray under the freezer is receiving the water. I also installed a metal finger on the heating element that transfers the heat down the hole. By the thrower, I'm assuming that you mean to hot wire the element. I checked for continuity, but I did not try this method if I'm understanding you correctly. Is the heating element line voltage or low voltage. I would assume High but just want to confirm and the unit has both high and low boards.

@@bflat1894 120v

No

Did you soak the gasket in hot water before you installed it?

@@SubZeroSpecialists yes, actually I figured out what was the problem. I got a wrong gasket part number and magnet inside the gasket had a wrong polarity. That’s why magnet didn’t seal to the fridge body. I ordered a correct gasket and it’s sealed like a charm even with no heat up.

That’s because I work with both hands and use video glasses, can’t help that.

I like it because it’s so compact and I don’t need to go to a welding supply to refill the tanks. Not sure how long it lasts yet, but it was inexpensive.

@@SubZeroSpecialists thank you sir 🤝

I use two tips, a 2 and a 5, mostly 5.

@@SubZeroSpecialists Thank you for the quick reply

No

Are you talking about the capillary tube from the thermostat ?

Yes

Also, on the 550 I’m working on, the instructions are saying the larger bulb is on the right side and the single one is on the left, but i see people online are doing it different ways. I just did a replacement for a customer and now the fridge section either freezes or stays in the 60s. Maybe faulty thermostat? Very weird behavior. I reordered the new thermostat and will try again. Also installed new start relay and overload so thats not the issue.

@@paulk7895 if your tstat has two bulbs, then the fat one goes below the evap coil on a 45 degree angle and the thin one slides through the fins of the evap, you should have gotten instructions if you bought a subzero part. Otherwise there should be some pics on my website under tech help. The freezer tstat capillary should not be touching the evaporator tubing.

aaronsrefrigeration.com

Check the control board for loose wires

Many times

or where can I buy and can I ask for a site or link to order sir

You can order those parts online.

That’s risky

@SubZeroSpecialists Sorry, that was a bad joke. I appreciate the videos.

I may try that the next time, but this is the way I’ve been doing it for so many years. Thanks for the feedback.

What model?

Viking VCBB536LSS@@SubZeroSpecialists

Unfortunately these charging columns are no longer available and I only have one rebuild kit left. Try FB Marketplace or eBay.

Go to my website aaronsrefrigeration.com and look up parts.