great batteries! i put 8 of these in my cordless drill about 7 years ago. no bms. still going strong. used the drill about 3/4 times a week. i tested the individual cells 2 months ago and they are still 3.3 volts each exactly! incredible!
Very COoL. 5 years later and it's still exactly what I wanted to see. I like that way you put the beef into those (real!) copper cables. Assembly not inportant for this fact finding test... This really helped me think the whole LiPo thing out. Thank you. Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left.
I use pvc pipe for battery holder. Put bolts and nuts through pvc threaded end caps and put the 4 26650 cells in series - to + . Cut the pipe long enough to allow the threaded ends to tighten the cells together and contact the end bolts. Use two nuts per end. One to lock bolt into cap hole, and one to lock the cable to the bolt. Direct connection without nickel strips spot welds, or soldering. For more voltage, use longer pipe.For 12 s13s or longer, extract to cells with a telescopic mechanics magnet after unscrewing one end cap. They can then be easily checked and charged in individual smart chargers to maintain balance if some are unequal.BTW… for 26650 cells, use 1” thin wall pvc. For 18650 cells, 3/4” thick wall pvc. I use this method for jump starts, power tools, lights, and several e-bikes. For large , long power draws, I connect to or more pipe ends in parallel.I got the idea from an old hillbilly that posted a video about his e-bike build, but the concept has evolved to include the other diy tools etc.I even hooked some up to an electric fence to keep the cows in. A solar charger keeps them going all year. High density foam insulation keeps them from freezing.If the caps don’t tighten enough to get a connection, I sometimes use springs , magnets, or a wad of copper foil to take up the slack. I also do some with no threaded caps but slip on caps secured with tape. Bungee cords work but they gotta be good.Whew, didn’t mean to write a book, but I don’t make videos. Maybe you can if you like the idea.
I have a plan to make a battery for a motorbike based on A123. The current draw when the starter runs is around 85 A, so it seems that A123 batteries should work fine at such conditions. Your video is very informative for me :) Cheers!
@@Sopheris I use an active balancer, to mainain the same voltage over each cell, but I do not use over-current protection circuit. If I decide to use such, I must withstand at least 100A, which is a lot. so far so good - 4000 km without any damage and with cells properly balanced :)
@@Servicehans Hi! My bike is CBR600RR. I use the 4s2p configuration because the bike requires more current when starting a hot engine. Cold engine can be easily started by a battery in 4s1p configuration. I've previously tested such configuration and it turned out not reliable, but it may be also the case, that internal connection of the previous battery weren't conductive enough. I use spotwelding and 0.35 mm steel tape for interconnection.
Just installed a LifePo4 battery pack with 12v 50ah to my boat with 1741cc yamaha 4 stroke outboard, it just fantastic! start up from 13.4v down to 12.0v but 2 seconds later back to 12.8v and back to 13.4v and charging to 13.8 later. **My outboard not charge with dinamo or alternators and it using rectifier regulator , it runs at 1500rpm for maximum output 25a
What is the CCA of the original battery of your car? These cells are rated for 120A pulse discharge. My 3.0L I6 car comes with a 600 CCA battery, so it would need 5 cells in parallel, or 4S5P configuration.
@@EVCustoms those nickel strips are rated for about 10 to 15 amps for continuous, but about 30 to 40 amps for a few seconds and you doubled them up. But, you should add about 4 or 5 more strips to the pack, then the voltage won't sag as much.
should not be needed max voltage for a normal alternator is 14.5V, Charge voltage for a 4s LifePo4 is 14.6V under normalt conditions there would be no need for a bms ofc a bms never hurts
@@SocialPerspective101 a 4S balance board will do that, But in general the closer the batteries get to full the more they refuse to accept the electrons, So under normal circumstances there should not be an issue with over charging single cells
@@storm4710 The voltage doesn't matter in this case, as the current would be WAY, WAY too high..... It's not how you charge lithum batteries. As you have to limit current as well.
Hey, how's this possible? Connecting batteries in series just increase only voltage and not current. This A123 battery has a peak output of 120A maximum. Cars require anything from 300A-1000A. Then how's that even possible????!!!
This is the only video on whole TH-cam where someone shows drain from 4s LiFePo4 to the starter. Newer thought these lil boys can peak 160A !!! I have 4s 32700, think they can do the same.
I just ordered 4x 32700 cells (liitokala 6500mah from aliexpress). After a lot of searching I still could not find a CCA rating, so I gambled and ordered. This video makes me hopeful! It's for my motorcycle, so should be less demanding than a car.
I think it must be 4s2p for your car because it`s 20a charge and 161a pulse discharge. I this case in video 4s1p can be degradation of battery. Great idea, Pb must be in the past ;)
@@EVCustoms how are those cells today still use them or have them in a project ? I did a lipo but this are abit more safe when using in warmer conditions
This batteries doesn’t like negative temperatures guys , so this going to be a problem in cold months of the year . Also maybe isn’t bag idea to put some super / ultra capacitors in parallel . This will lower the load on the batteries during the cranking and the voltage would drop less so the engine will start faster and better .
Or just don't use a BMS. These cells stay balanced on their own quite well and if you overdischarge them you're not very smart. A little voltmeter on a switch is easy enough to do.
Hello brother.. Thats great video.. I was too thinking to manufacture my own battery from 4 Nos. LIFEPO4 32700 Cells to start my car... But now i found ur video here.. Thanks bro... Here it can be seen max. 161 Amp current drawn @ min. 8 volts... So i hv to buy cells according it.. Right? What is the "C" rating of these cells?
ANR26650 M1B Max Discharge (Continuous) 70A Max Discharge (Burst 10 Seconds) 120A Technically if they can support 120A for a 10 second burst a much faster burst (or more accurately it would probably be "pulse") of maybe double that for 1-2 seconds?? At this point its a matter of your connections whether that be nickel strip, nickel copper sandwich, large silicone wire in excess of 8AWG or 10mm2, pure copper ring terminals or lugs, etc. A continuous draw of >50A would heat up any "normal" nickel strip use to connect batteries in series and parallel and if it is nickel plated steel.....well good luck with that kind of resistance. At that point I would be looking at doing a nickel copper sandwich and this is one of the few times where I will advocate for nickel plated steel over pure nickel. Since the copper has such a low resistance you're relying on the nickel to be the bread of the sandwich that gives you something a hobby level spot welder actually might have a chance with. So top layer is nickel plated steel, followed by a thin strip of pure copper, and then the bottom layer is the steel can of the cell. My understanding is the current will be much more likely to weld the pieces of steel together since the copper's resistance is so low it is just passing right on through the copper but if the copper is thin enough (0.1mm) the steel welds might be significant enough to weld thin copper. The catch is: NEW cells have a 70A/120A rating. There are a lot of used cells out there and not very many places to buy new (LithiumWerks is the new rebranding of A123) ANR26650 cells. New cells go for around $9 each so if you're paying less than $6 you can be damn sure they are fakes or they are used. These cells are VERY hard to fake due to their unique anode and cathode physical appearance so I would only buy LithiumWerks cells since those are much less likely to be used. The new name isn't very old so I think it would be unlikely any LithiumWerks cells sold as new would be used cells. There's probably hundreds of thousands of old A123 branded M1A and M1B cells out there. They come in 96 pack electric bus modules, 48 cell pack server/disk array backup modules, and 10 cell modules (not sure of application). I got lucky and got a 96 cell electric bus pack of M1B's testing at damn near 100%. Ah was 100.1% but Wh was 98.7%. A lot of the electric bus packs got run pretty hard and its quite common to see people reporting 60% to 70% capacity remaining on them. BatteryHookup got a mixed bunch of 96 cell and 48 cell packs for a while, heard some were shit, some were great. BCH has some really worn out electric bus packs but their 48 cells packs I've heard test really well. Honestly the 96 cell packs are usually so cheap that its worth it to buy one and cut it into thirds to make 12V batteries with 20Ah capacity. Some one Ebay right now from the guy I got my pack from. Super super cheap.
So you used 14V only 5Ah batteries (if it give 5Ah) to start a car that needs 500A at least. I mean 5A for an hour which it gives 640A for 20 sec, is this what you have and calculated?
My car need about 80-120A, this lifepo4 batteries can give me 75A normal rate per cell, so.. at 75A discharge they can handle about 4 minutes.. if i understand well..
@@EVCustoms so 4 of 75A is 13.2V (series)120A peak (10sec) (only one battery) is enough to start 120A need right? I have tried 13.2V lead acid battery CP1290 and used thick cables to start 500A need car and it would turn gauge lights on but it will not crank, i even used 2 of them in parallel no luck. so to use your batteries I need 16 of them to crank 500A CCA car need? right? each 4 in series and 4 of them in parallel.
I have a riding mower with a 26hp motor. The battery is 300 CCA. I have been wanting to try and build my own battery to replace the lead acid. Does anyone see any problems with trying this?
Not really. As long as you make sure you use LiFePo4 battery cells, and not one of the other lithium chemistries. With the other ones you could start a (wild) fire. With LiFePO4 all you can damage is the battery (in a non violent way). And just to be sure, check the voltage on the current battery while to lawnmower is running (at full throttle) to make sure it does not go over 15V. 14-14.5V would be ideal. Going over 15V will degrade the battery a little bit. Going over 16.8V will degrade the battery a lot more. Less than 14V and your battery will reach full charge. NOTE: This is valid for LiFePO4 ONLY!
@@JohnDoe-ex8gf He could use LTO which has silly high discharge rates of 10C to 40C but it is quite expensive. It does last for a literal lifetime though. 20,000 cycles is what you should expect out of most LTO cells that aren't beaten to death with high C discharge cycles.
@@EVCustoms start car is one thing but o nother is how mutch capacited you hawe in bateri. or how mutch you pay for the capacit. y buy new bateris and cap whas from1650mah to 2350mah and eweri can start car.
*did I understand the point correctly that I can take 18650 batteries, connecting them in series to get 12-13V, which is enough to start the car (with a low battery)?? I have a similar problem... I rarely drive a car, and for 3 years I "killed" - 2 batteries for the car (1 = 7.5 V; 2 = 10.8 V)... I think I found a "cheap" means to start =)*
No. Incorrect. However, given your situation, I'd recommend you disconnect your battery when returning home. In fact you can have a battery disconnect installed for you. When you get home, you disconnect. When you want to drive, you connect it and go.
I wouldn't recommend 18650s as theyre lithium ion and will over heat and potentially explode when you try to pull that many amps from them, these are lithium phosphate cells which are alot more stable and rated for alot more current draw
@@SocialPerspective101 I know that, most people who jump start a car will make sure the car is running before disconecting the jump starter pack. in that time the alternator can pump at least 50 amps into it
Why car manufacturers don't just fit this kind of small battery pack into every car and use the 12V lead-acid only to charge this thing up a bit then start? lol
Seeing this awesome video ,i was inspired and a made a motorcycle battery that will last for a decade ,improved with bms and 4s 2p,its on my scouter now for some months and its awsome.i have some videos posted in my channel.
Do you live in warm climate? I’m making a battery as well. But the prismatic cells you speak of have to high of voltage when full charged? I’d be interested in seeing your work or even a picture of the set up
@@drakevelazquez8728 I switched to LTO batteries, because I live in the north, they can handle subzero temps just fine, I use the pouch cell as backup now, since they are so small and light wieght. I did use one pouch cell battery all winter long, without recharging it once, as a jump starter, because my old lead acid died before the new cells came this week.
@@thesurvivalist. I feel my lead acid battery becoming weak and I plan to do the same thing. May I know that if my original car battery is 12volt 45Ah, is it okay for me to replace it with 4S LiFePo⁴ with 20Ah only? And may I know why you change from LiFePo⁴ to LTO other than temperature?
something you can here, maximum voltage on a 18650 li-ion cell is 4.2v and nominally 3.6-3.7v. in the documentation of the cells used here 26650, clearly write 3.3v nominal voltage to say that the maximum per cell is also 4.2v and if we gather the voltage on 4S 4.2v x 4 = 16.8v, the question is, why on the multimeter I see 13 3V? because in the clip a fake is presented and the li-ion battery is parallel to the lead acid car battery
@@marinizo1 3.3 x 4 =13.2 V, they have a MAX V of 3.6 per cell. So at the very highest you'd get 14.4, so a usable range of 13.2-14.4, which is totally safe for a car or motorcycle 12V system, and with adequate discharge current, can start it up just fine.
in short: lead acid is trash, its time to move on if you want to do this, use an active balancer not a BMS, a battery disconnect while running would kill your car
@@EspHack So you are charging 4 LifePo4 cells connected in series directly from the approx 14volt DC coming out of the car alternator via regulator rectifier?
Where is the "ampere booster circuit", coz batteries of this size produce very low amperes, while a car needs at least 600 amperes to start... Brother has only used batteries to supply current to vehicle terminals .. magic here
This video is good for emergency purposes only. It is certainly damaging and or accelerating the degradation of the batteries. 600CCA only applies to Lead Acid batteries which we can only use its 50% capacity
Dude... of course it’ll start you have connected the batteries with the main cranking one... try without the cranking battery. Might not get the same result when the engine is cold especially on a big engine or Diesel engine.
Jesus... I don’t think you know much about electricity you still have the positive connected to the battery and you are using the chassis earth for your negative terminal. That mean the main battery is still operating as the earth you using is the same! You are just doing a parallel setup using a different earth point. You have to disconnect the cranking battery at the positive terminal you moron as the power runs from + to -
@@fasm313 The battery "-" was disconnected from the chassis "-", look at 6:50. If still in doubt, ask yourself how a battery can provide power with only 1 lead connected ? NOT!
great batteries! i put 8 of these in my cordless drill about 7 years ago. no bms. still going strong. used the drill about 3/4 times a week. i tested the individual cells 2 months ago and they are still 3.3 volts each exactly! incredible!
Nice, 4s2p? Or 8 in series? 7 years is an impressive longevity!
I have found some but are0v some say they can be revived like lithium can I have tested lithium cells but not lifepo4 hope I can to do projects .
@@imperialsecuritybureau6037 8 in series. (total 26.4 volts). its a makita 24volt drill, so, perfect!
Very COoL. 5 years later and it's still exactly what I wanted to see. I like that way you put the beef into those (real!) copper cables. Assembly not inportant for this fact finding test... This really helped me think the whole LiPo thing out. Thank you. Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left.
😁😄
one time I start my car with 3 cell 1500 mlA Tattoo 70 c battery😁
1600cc Renault.
I had to. my car's battery is dead.
but it start nicely.
Thanks. Very useful video. It's great that you showed the current and voltage during cranking. Instantaneous current is over 200A.
I use pvc pipe for battery holder. Put bolts and nuts through pvc threaded end caps and put the 4 26650 cells in series - to + . Cut the pipe long enough to allow the threaded ends to tighten the cells together and contact the end bolts. Use two nuts per end. One to lock bolt into cap hole, and one to lock the cable to the bolt. Direct connection without nickel strips spot welds, or soldering. For more voltage, use longer pipe.For 12 s13s or longer, extract to cells with a telescopic mechanics magnet after unscrewing one end cap. They can then be easily checked and charged in individual smart chargers to maintain balance if some are unequal.BTW… for 26650 cells, use 1” thin wall pvc. For 18650 cells, 3/4” thick wall pvc. I use this method for jump starts, power tools, lights, and several e-bikes. For large , long power draws, I connect to or more pipe ends in parallel.I got the idea from an old hillbilly that posted a video about his e-bike build, but the concept has evolved to include the other diy tools etc.I even hooked some up to an electric fence to keep the cows in. A solar charger keeps them going all year. High density foam insulation keeps them from freezing.If the caps don’t tighten enough to get a connection, I sometimes use springs , magnets, or a wad of copper foil to take up the slack. I also do some with no threaded caps but slip on caps secured with tape. Bungee cords work but they gotta be good.Whew, didn’t mean to write a book, but I don’t make videos. Maybe you can if you like the idea.
Good idea ! I liked it ! Thanks !
Great info mate 👍
Would it be possible for u to share some pics of packs u made?
please make a video that your great inovation. this could be very interesting
To bych chtěl vidět na videu..Dobrý nápad!
El enlace de las baterías ya no esta disponible 😢
I have a plan to make a battery for a motorbike based on A123. The current draw when the starter runs is around 85 A, so it seems that A123 batteries should work fine at such conditions. Your video is very informative for me :) Cheers!
Motorbike will damage A123 without any protection circuit.
@@Sopheris I use an active balancer, to mainain the same voltage over each cell, but I do not use over-current protection circuit. If I decide to use such, I must withstand at least 100A, which is a lot. so far so good - 4000 km without any damage and with cells properly balanced :)
@@taki_maciek4799 what bike do you have? Used four cells in series? What did you use to make the series connection? Spotweld or soldered? Thanks
@@Servicehans Hi! My bike is CBR600RR. I use the 4s2p configuration because the bike requires more current when starting a hot engine. Cold engine can be easily started by a battery in 4s1p configuration. I've previously tested such configuration and it turned out not reliable, but it may be also the case, that internal connection of the previous battery weren't conductive enough. I use spotwelding and 0.35 mm steel tape for interconnection.
Cold weather start?
Just installed a LifePo4 battery pack with 12v 50ah to my boat with 1741cc yamaha 4 stroke outboard, it just fantastic! start up from 13.4v down to 12.0v but 2 seconds later back to 12.8v and back to 13.4v and charging to 13.8 later.
**My outboard not charge with dinamo or alternators and it using rectifier regulator
, it runs at 1500rpm for maximum output 25a
Otomobilin kendi aküsünün durumu nasıl?
HOW are connections made... Series 4S ... But why thin wires are used... Can anybody tell me...
4s 1p
thin wires here to connect the balancer
Try with 18650 battery 4s2p, will it start my 1G-EU engine? (inline 6)
What is the CCA of the original battery of your car? These cells are rated for 120A pulse discharge. My 3.0L I6 car comes with a 600 CCA battery, so it would need 5 cells in parallel, or 4S5P configuration.
the first set of ears on the alligator clips if for the rubber on your wire for strenth. then the seond for the copper. just a tip
At minute 8:05 voltage dropped to 8.43v and amperage up to 213amp. How long will the batteries last with this abuse? Thanks.
Hi friend, specs of the battery says normal rate 30C about 70Amps and max output was 210A i think for some seconds ..
@@EVCustoms those nickel strips are rated for about 10 to 15 amps for continuous, but about 30 to 40 amps for a few seconds and you doubled them up. But, you should add about 4 or 5 more strips to the pack, then the voltage won't sag as much.
Great .. but why didn't you use a bms for protect the battery against the overcharge from dinamo?
I am waiting for this BMS now 2 months... :)
should not be needed max voltage for a normal alternator is 14.5V,
Charge voltage for a 4s LifePo4 is 14.6V
under normalt conditions there would be no need for a bms
ofc a bms never hurts
@@storm4710 How do u ensure individual cells dont overcharge if u use alternator to charge the 4s battery pack?
@@SocialPerspective101 a 4S balance board will do that,
But in general the closer the batteries get to full the more they refuse to accept the electrons,
So under normal circumstances there should not be an issue with over charging single cells
@@storm4710 The voltage doesn't matter in this case, as the current would be WAY, WAY too high..... It's not how you charge lithum batteries. As you have to limit current as well.
Excellent ,great video, the BMS is no longer available, which others would you recommend?
good job. But can you explain how the battery can be charged?
good point. I wonder what the temperature of the batteries after starting the car several times? thanks!
Hi.. they didn't even warm...
with such low IR and such a short amount of time outputting large current they probably didn't even get 5 Celsius above ambient
I have no seen the baterai capacity each. How much ?
Wonderful!!! How to connect? Is it a connection in series?
Yes
why weren't the cells connected in parallel to obtain a voltage of 13-14 volts?
U mean in Series . In parallel only ups the amperage
Hey, how's this possible? Connecting batteries in series just increase only voltage and not current. This A123 battery has a peak output of 120A maximum.
Cars require anything from 300A-1000A. Then how's that even possible????!!!
This is the only video on whole TH-cam where someone shows drain from 4s LiFePo4 to the starter. Newer thought these lil boys can peak 160A !!! I have 4s 32700, think they can do the same.
My friend VladGoro25, which cells 32700 you have..? first check max current output of these cells...
I just ordered 4x 32700 cells (liitokala 6500mah from aliexpress).
After a lot of searching I still could not find a CCA rating, so I gambled and ordered. This video makes me hopeful! It's for my motorcycle, so should be less demanding than a car.
You balance charge them
LITOKALA Rated around 40A peak so it won't be even close to start a car.. a 50cc scooter maybe..
Any luck? I'd bet they probably wouldn't start even the smallest cars.
I wonder what's the difference with 18650 battery?
How many times can we jump start?? 2 3?
I think it must be 4s2p for your car because it`s 20a charge and 161a pulse discharge. I this case in video 4s1p can be degradation of battery. Great idea, Pb must be in the past ;)
Yes of curse is better with more parallel batteries, on this video i test them to see how strong is this Lifepo4 batteries...
lol... who cares about 2000 cycles when it's used as a jump starter.... 400 years life!
@@EVCustoms how are those cells today still use them or have them in a project ? I did a lipo but this are abit more safe when using in warmer conditions
Olá onde acho estás bateria ?
This batteries doesn’t like negative temperatures guys , so this going to be a problem in cold months of the year . Also maybe isn’t bag idea to put some super / ultra capacitors in parallel . This will lower the load on the batteries during the cranking and the voltage would drop less so the engine will start faster and better .
Which BMS did you buy? I guess it needs to be one that can handle 120A pulse discharge
Hi.. 600A pulse discharge.. www.aliexpress.com/item/4000294181677.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d9Wt54f
@@EVCustoms link says “no longer available”, will continue to look for one
many BMS's have a 1, 2, or 3 second window before OCP kicks in. A 50A BMS might even have a pulse current of 150 or 200A for 10 seconds
Or just don't use a BMS. These cells stay balanced on their own quite well and if you overdischarge them you're not very smart. A little voltmeter on a switch is easy enough to do.
@@ericklein5097 So can we start a car with 4 LifePo4 cells connected in series?
I think a 6~8 AWG cable is enough to connect to start up the engine.
Hello brother.. Thats great video.. I was too thinking to manufacture my own battery from 4 Nos. LIFEPO4 32700 Cells to start my car... But now i found ur video here.. Thanks bro... Here it can be seen max. 161 Amp current drawn @ min. 8 volts... So i hv to buy cells according it.. Right? What is the "C" rating of these cells?
ANR26650 M1B Max Discharge (Continuous) 70A
Max Discharge (Burst 10 Seconds) 120A
Technically if they can support 120A for a 10 second burst a much faster burst (or more accurately it would probably be "pulse") of maybe double that for 1-2 seconds?? At this point its a matter of your connections whether that be nickel strip, nickel copper sandwich, large silicone wire in excess of 8AWG or 10mm2, pure copper ring terminals or lugs, etc. A continuous draw of >50A would heat up any "normal" nickel strip use to connect batteries in series and parallel and if it is nickel plated steel.....well good luck with that kind of resistance. At that point I would be looking at doing a nickel copper sandwich and this is one of the few times where I will advocate for nickel plated steel over pure nickel. Since the copper has such a low resistance you're relying on the nickel to be the bread of the sandwich that gives you something a hobby level spot welder actually might have a chance with. So top layer is nickel plated steel, followed by a thin strip of pure copper, and then the bottom layer is the steel can of the cell. My understanding is the current will be much more likely to weld the pieces of steel together since the copper's resistance is so low it is just passing right on through the copper but if the copper is thin enough (0.1mm) the steel welds might be significant enough to weld thin copper.
The catch is: NEW cells have a 70A/120A rating. There are a lot of used cells out there and not very many places to buy new (LithiumWerks is the new rebranding of A123) ANR26650 cells. New cells go for around $9 each so if you're paying less than $6 you can be damn sure they are fakes or they are used. These cells are VERY hard to fake due to their unique anode and cathode physical appearance so I would only buy LithiumWerks cells since those are much less likely to be used. The new name isn't very old so I think it would be unlikely any LithiumWerks cells sold as new would be used cells. There's probably hundreds of thousands of old A123 branded M1A and M1B cells out there. They come in 96 pack electric bus modules, 48 cell pack server/disk array backup modules, and 10 cell modules (not sure of application). I got lucky and got a 96 cell electric bus pack of M1B's testing at damn near 100%. Ah was 100.1% but Wh was 98.7%. A lot of the electric bus packs got run pretty hard and its quite common to see people reporting 60% to 70% capacity remaining on them. BatteryHookup got a mixed bunch of 96 cell and 48 cell packs for a while, heard some were shit, some were great. BCH has some really worn out electric bus packs but their 48 cells packs I've heard test really well.
Honestly the 96 cell packs are usually so cheap that its worth it to buy one and cut it into thirds to make 12V batteries with 20Ah capacity. Some one Ebay right now from the guy I got my pack from. Super super cheap.
@@ericklein5097 So what are u suggesting to connect the 4 cells?
Merci beaucoup pour l’exercice
CCA. how much ???
Great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
So you used 14V only 5Ah batteries (if it give 5Ah) to start a car that needs 500A at least. I mean 5A for an hour which it gives 640A for 20 sec, is this what you have and calculated?
My car need about 80-120A, this lifepo4 batteries can give me 75A normal rate per cell, so.. at 75A discharge they can handle about 4 minutes.. if i understand well..
@@EVCustoms so 4 of 75A is 13.2V (series)120A peak (10sec) (only one battery) is enough to start 120A need right? I have tried 13.2V lead acid battery CP1290 and used thick cables to start 500A need car and it would turn gauge lights on but it will not crank, i even used 2 of them in parallel no luck. so to use your batteries I need 16 of them to crank 500A CCA car need? right? each 4 in series and 4 of them in parallel.
@@Johnsmith-yv8tx 500a is just max battery-rating. Actual draw from starter is based on load and they only suck up about 80-120a when starting car.
The name of VOM ?
Awesome Idea for DIY jump starter 😅
I have a riding mower with a 26hp motor. The battery is 300 CCA. I have been wanting to try and build my own battery to replace the lead acid. Does anyone see any problems with trying this?
Not really. As long as you make sure you use LiFePo4 battery cells, and not one of the other lithium chemistries. With the other ones you could start a (wild) fire. With LiFePO4 all you can damage is the battery (in a non violent way).
And just to be sure, check the voltage on the current battery while to lawnmower is running (at full throttle) to make sure it does not go over 15V. 14-14.5V would be ideal. Going over 15V will degrade the battery a little bit. Going over 16.8V will degrade the battery a lot more. Less than 14V and your battery will reach full charge.
NOTE: This is valid for LiFePO4 ONLY!
@@JohnDoe-ex8gf He could use LTO which has silly high discharge rates of 10C to 40C but it is quite expensive. It does last for a literal lifetime though. 20,000 cycles is what you should expect out of most LTO cells that aren't beaten to death with high C discharge cycles.
Onde achar estas bateria
If I tired to crimp with my cutters, it would have cut it for sure lol.
koment me video what you thing are the bateries good?
This batteries is very good my friend..
to tell you the truth I did not expect to be able to start the car..
th-cam.com/video/lDwJdJE79Rc/w-d-xo.html
@@EVCustoms start car is one thing but o nother is how mutch capacited you hawe in bateri. or how mutch you pay for the capacit. y buy new bateris and cap whas from1650mah to 2350mah and eweri can start car.
no muestras las coneccion de las pilas😢
Wow. My dad wants to try this.
*did I understand the point correctly that I can take 18650 batteries, connecting them in series to get 12-13V, which is enough to start the car (with a low battery)?? I have a similar problem... I rarely drive a car, and for 3 years I "killed" - 2 batteries for the car (1 = 7.5 V; 2 = 10.8 V)... I think I found a "cheap" means to start =)*
No. Incorrect. However, given your situation, I'd recommend you disconnect your battery when returning home. In fact you can have a battery disconnect installed for you. When you get home, you disconnect. When you want to drive, you connect it and go.
I wouldn't recommend 18650s as theyre lithium ion and will over heat and potentially explode when you try to pull that many amps from them, these are lithium phosphate cells which are alot more stable and rated for alot more current draw
@@kristianwhiskin1070 But some say it even worked with a drill battery. How's that
Came here for the batteries, coincidence that we both have an ae111? Nice that’s it’s blacktop 20v too, not 7afe
Yeah my friend... nice and powerfull engines.... 4 separate air inputs..
Why can't u just connect 4 batteries in series & nothing else?
That's a low budget jump starter for sure to be kept in car always. After a few jump starts the cells can be charged externally.
Actually as soon as you start the engine the alternator would recharge the batteries
@@dantronics1682 Jump starter is meant to be disconnected after starting
@@SocialPerspective101 I know that, most people who jump start a car will make sure the car is running before disconecting the jump starter pack. in that time the alternator can pump at least 50 amps into it
how much single lifepo4 gives burst amps ?? 30A discharge something ?
This cells can give normal about 75A
@@EVCustoms 1 cell is rated 75 A ?? omg
@@EFDawahWiseHamzasLantern Sorry 75A at burst..
Very good vídeo. Thanks
just built my own 3s 7p 18650 battery pack and secured it with nails.
Why car manufacturers don't just fit this kind of small battery pack into every car and use the 12V lead-acid only to charge this thing up a bit then start? lol
Because you need your lead acid not only to start your car.
@@guilleport yeah, but you could still have a lead acid and have a small pack for emergency engine start
Excelente 😮
Seeing this awesome video ,i was inspired and a made a motorcycle battery that will last for a decade ,improved with bms and 4s 2p,its on my scouter now for some months and its awsome.i have some videos posted in my channel.
Какой смысл в толстых проводах, если на клеммах площадь контакта 5мм...
Harika işlem teşekkürler
Wow! I'd just put a BMS and a balancer there and voila (BMS to prevent overcharge and balancer to prevent cells to be charged at different voltages)
Why not a BMS that balances lol?
The bms would cost more than the battery pack!
BMS usually do balancing lol. and make sure it supports over 200 amps, otherwise it won't start the car because detected as overload.
@@samueladitya1729 not for my car.. it's 998ccm so you'd crank it with your bare thumb
really scared that he could touch the clamps together in the end！Fireworks！
hehe... to much energy..
Pake batre kapasitas mah bos...
4 lifepo4 pouch cells are my car’s battery, they put out hella amps!
Do you live in warm climate? I’m making a battery as well. But the prismatic cells you speak of have to high of voltage when full charged? I’d be interested in seeing your work or even a picture of the set up
@@drakevelazquez8728 I switched to LTO batteries, because I live in the north, they can handle subzero temps just fine, I use the pouch cell as backup now, since they are so small and light wieght.
I did use one pouch cell battery all winter long, without recharging it once, as a jump starter, because my old lead acid died before the new cells came this week.
@@thesurvivalist. I feel my lead acid battery becoming weak and I plan to do the same thing.
May I know that if my original car battery is 12volt 45Ah, is it okay for me to replace it with 4S LiFePo⁴ with 20Ah only?
And may I know why you change from LiFePo⁴ to LTO other than temperature?
pouch cells sound super dangerous, i dare you to puncture one of those cells and see if it catches fire
@@eksine I already upgraded to a LTO BMW 12volt battery, I used the pouch cell battery only as a jump starter!
Going to need alot more to start a diesel
Impressive
something you can here, maximum voltage on a 18650 li-ion cell is 4.2v and nominally 3.6-3.7v. in the documentation of the cells used here 26650, clearly write 3.3v nominal voltage to say that the maximum per cell is also 4.2v and if we gather the voltage on 4S 4.2v x 4 = 16.8v, the question is, why on the multimeter I see 13 3V? because in the clip a fake is presented and the li-ion battery is parallel to the lead acid car battery
My friend this batteries is 26650 Lifepo4..! nominal voltage 3.3v max 3.6-3.7v
@@EVCustoms still not counting friend, 3.6x4 = 14.4v
What you mean..??
@@marinizo1 3.3 x 4 =13.2 V, they have a MAX V of 3.6 per cell. So at the very highest you'd get 14.4, so a usable range of 13.2-14.4, which is totally safe for a car or motorcycle 12V system, and with adequate discharge current, can start it up just fine.
a vid that loads great
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This is not possible, how in the world he did this???
Those A123 batteries are almost indestructible, of course they could handle that current draw. They are also very cheap, used
Can 32700 lifepo4 start car
in short: lead acid is trash, its time to move on
if you want to do this, use an active balancer not a BMS, a battery disconnect while running would kill your car
Hi... two years now it working smoothly
@@EVCustoms with a BMS? that's interesting, perhaps the alternator cant overcharge them, I used 32700cells on my corolla, eyeing 75ah prismatics next
@@EspHack what is the configuration u used?
@@SocialPerspective101 just 4 cells in series with an active balancer, still going great
@@EspHack So you are charging 4 LifePo4 cells connected in series directly from the approx 14volt DC coming out of the car alternator via regulator rectifier?
Where is the "ampere booster circuit", coz batteries of this size produce very low amperes, while a car needs at least 600 amperes to start... Brother has only used batteries to supply current to vehicle terminals .. magic here
This video is good for emergency purposes only. It is certainly damaging and or accelerating the degradation of the batteries. 600CCA only applies to Lead Acid batteries which we can only use its 50% capacity
That's a li-ion cell, not lifepo4. I think lifepo4 will have some problems with this low amperage...
li-ion cell might catch also fire upon accident or high amperage draw
Lithium ion phosphate =3.3v..lithium ion=3.7v...
It’s LiFePO4, I have the same cells...
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Hola saludos desde peru
Ok, let's see you do that with a big diesel engine
just add a more batteries
Amateurs should not be given tools they don't know how to use properly. This is an accident waiting to happen.
remove the battery and then start it
Ok
Bro do it without the lead acid connected....
Lead acid battery isn't t connected... one pole is out..
it is disconnected...
entertaining
Hi . TU very m
Dude... of course it’ll start you have connected the batteries with the main cranking one... try without the cranking battery. Might not get the same result when the engine is cold especially on a big engine or Diesel engine.
In video you can see clearly that car starter battery is disconnected..
Jesus... I don’t think you know much about electricity you still have the positive connected to the battery and you are using the chassis earth for your negative terminal. That mean the main battery is still operating as the earth you using is the same! You are just doing a parallel setup using a different earth point. You have to disconnect the cranking battery at the positive terminal you moron as the power runs from + to -
@@fasm313 The battery "-" was disconnected from the chassis "-", look at 6:50. If still in doubt, ask yourself how a battery can provide power with only 1 lead connected ? NOT!
This taught me nothing. Dont even know if his car battery was actually dead or not
watch again... You will see that the battery poles of car is disconnected...
Papi insaan 😂😂😂😂😂✌️✌️✌️