Thank you for such a wonderful, in-depth review with TEARDOWN. It gives us much clearer picture of the product than those 5 minute clips where people just hook these up to cars and show one cold start and call it good. It seems reasonably well made with protection circuits for each cell (sadly not a norm with cheap chinese products) and decent build quality. I was thinking about buying one of these for QRP HAM radio operations and occasional jump staring ATVs and based on your video this seems to be fit for purpose.
It probably has some logic to detect that it is connected to a lead-acid battery, and the 'factory' button temporarily bypasses that logic so that the output can be tested on a more simple load, maybe just a power resistor and a meter for factory test.
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly lost my password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me!
The two black wires and two red wires, could be a sensor/power ground kind of thing- while charging there is some voltage drop in the wires, so it's hard to get an accurate reading of the battery voltage through the cables used for charging. So they run two extra wires just for sensing the voltage (the balance wires have much lower current so don't matter so much) 4 wire measurement
I was expecting this unit to be much worse, but it's surprisingly well-designed, for the most part. It will be interesting to see how well it starts an engine as that will mostly depend upon the quality of the cells. Any Chinese power bank that will supply over 3A to the USB port while maintaining 5V is already above-average. There do seem to be some components missing from the main PCB, but they don't seem to affect the advertised functionality.
Before I got myself a hot air station, I used the high beam of a broken H4 lamp @15V for SMD desoldering. I just had to put on sunglasses while doing that.
I got this one, my car battery is dying slowly, so sometimes I can't start the car in the winter. This works really well! (yes I know I could buy a new battery for a little more but.. Good thing to have in the car even when you buy a new battery.
This is for emergency purpose. When battery voltage is low. There are some supercapacitor versions which charges from battery and provide high current if battery is old and it's internal resistance is high.
@@poptartmcjelly7054 Because I will buy it later. But right now I have a device that will help me if I accidentally deplete my battery (forget lights on etc...)
Wow, this looks like it's well worth every penny. LiFEPO4 cells obviously are more expensive that Li-Ion but are safer and putout insane amounts of current. They can also last much more cycles. It might also come in handy for a low power ham radio portable setup :)
That is. Also I see whey they didn't used LiPo batteries. Those have even larger energy density and voltage. However are more expensive and prone to thermal runaway. Because of that LFP is obvious choice.
@@KrotowX also it is much closer to lead acid than regular li ion. With 3 cells you're too low and with 4 you are too high. 4 cell lfp is just perfect.
Great video! I loved you reading the manual and taking the time to find data sheets on several components. Not trying to downplay the quality of this product but one thing to note- the data sheet on the two MOSFETS inside of the black box on the jumper cables states that those numbers are for the components mounted on a large heatsink. You can bet those bad boys are gonna get toasty carrying 250 amps. Nobody come at me harsh, not an electrician by any means but I am interested in these types of things.
that is the design. one of those chips most probably has over temp protection that triggers when they get too hot cutting the voltage. The idea of this boosters is to boost for like 3s and cut power. They are protecting the battery cells as they are not designed for 150c continues power, and that is what is drawn at 500A from 3000mah cell. But the reality is that this battery pack can't provide that so this booster will never ever provide 500A.
With those things, typically the mosfets are closed when it is plugged in, until it detects a battery. Once it detects a battery in the correct orientation (or the factory button is held), it turns on the mosfets
At 12:03 the datasheet shows a reverse diode buried inside the MOSFET between the drain and the source, so there is any protection against reverse connection of the clips!!! ... this means that you can connect the jump starter to a good charged battery and follow the rule written in the manual (keep away from people and pets) :-)
They bottom balance the cells because the high current output can not be switched off based on individual cell voltages. The electronics in the high current wires can only determine the low voltage cutoff with the combined packs voltage. Bottom balancing the cells to the cutoff voltage is the workaround. As long as the cells stay bottom balanced no individual cell should be discharged to far based on pack voltage alone.
I've had this power bank / charging booster for a few years now and it actually did start my car when it had a flat battery. By bypassing the USB circuit you should be able to charge much quicker since lifepo4 can be safely charged at 0.5C.
I'm thinking about purchase of similar device. Seems reasonable to do quick mod to charge internal LFP battery faster from my hobby charger in LFP mode.
They are used in every circuit with pulse current, not continuous, so the power dissipated is less... And, as he explained, the drain current is limited by the transistor's internal temperature, so if the current rises, the dissipated power rises, internal temperature rises (the heat radiator to dissipate the maximum power should be immense), and current will decrease, so no chance to die like a fuse....
And of course I plan to go to sleep but take a look at TH-cam subscription feed and inside of it there's an interesting video from Diode gone wild :) Great video as always! Thanks
How these usually work is they sense the voltage from the battery and you need to have at least like 1V worth of charge in the battery for it to activate the jump start. The button labelled "Factory" is probably for QC testing of the product just before it's put in the package
From what I found out you have to have certain voltage range. This prevents connecting overdischarged batteries, cause if you would charger would send full current and overdischarged batteries might crack when taking in too much amps.
I don't think the battery has temperature protection included near the cells. The many leads on the balancing connector are just because they used gnd and 12V twice to deliver the current of the 12V output
Yes, I also came to this conclusion. 2 extra wires would make sense as a temperature sensor, but it just uses double wires for the overall positive and negative.
hello great video i have bestek jump starter that stop work it only work if i plug it to the wall plug what is the problem?batteries?pcb?or something else thanks
I have a question sir! Battery is directly outputing 12v , if car battery backfired(i mean instantly backing voltage)to the battery,so it can damage the battery,so using diode is safer ithink❤️❤️
Hi all, I have only a basic understanding of electrical theory. Can someone explain how the starter is rated at 12V 8A but provides a peak current of 500A? Does this mean the starter motor may draw up to 500A on ignition, and the power bank simply has the circuitry to provide such a current?
12v 8a is for the barrel output that goes into the cigarette lighter adapter. Peak current of 500A is directly from the cells, without going through nearly as much protection or anything, and for starting the engines Edit: Also, the 500A output is through that thick-ass blue connector, an ec5 or whatever it is called
@@hugoslav843 would that be a limitation of the cells’ capacity or the temperature rating of the components? Perhaps a little of both? Also, let me clarify my question: I am asking if there is some sort of component (i.e. inductors, capacitors) that ramps up the current as needed, or if the current supplied is simply based on the draw from the load
@@chelarestelar is there any component that would serve to ramp up the current as the load demands, or is that essentially what the cell does, provided the conductors have the proper amount of ampacity?
such a large current (100-200 or even 300A) needed for the starter engine coming out of a 12V 3000mAh "lithion" (my own naming) pack all of a sudden? aren't there caveats here? am I missing something?
This LED lens is actually kind of : Total Internal Reflection (TIR Optical Systems) is a phenomenon in optics, by which light experiences complete reflection at an interface between two media. Most optical fibers prism in binoculars use TIR as the guiding principle.
HI am a little skeptic on the starting curent and ability to start Diesel 2000cmc engines (which typically need 400 - 500A cranking amps to start). I don t understant how can u make starting current of 500A from a 12V 3Ah lipofe4 pack, capable of delivering nominal 3A @12v. This mean like 150C overcurrent rating (500A/3A). I used a lot of Lipos for RC models and never come across on cells that could deliver more than 48-65C and there were like high spec cells. So say 65C x 3A nominal curent = 195A starting max. curent. That is still a gap to the 500A advertised. If you put the 4 cells in paralel to give 12A it might get up to 500Amps but at the 3.2V (since cells are in paralel) which also might not start the car as you do not have the 12v needed for the electronics (ECU) etc. So i believe such a starter pach should run a minimum of 4 cells in series to total 12.8V and @ 20Ah capacity per cell to be able to produce the 500A at an average 25C rate of discharge. Any way to make sure you need like an old fashioned batery tester (w/h power shunt resistor and relay) to test what is the short circuit current for this pack.
Nice video! I'm excited for the induction cooking plate :3 i recently took the old one from my mom apart since the touch panel wouldn't work anymore. It had a big crack all across and hot water found it's way into it. Every component still works though
Plz explain how to bypass the security of induction cooktop coz i am planning to use it to make tesla coil. But unable to bypass the security of it. Plz plz help
Thank you for the note about them all being Li-ion batteries. It is a pet peeve of mine when people call cylindrical cell "li-ion" and pouch cells "lipo" batteries. The form factor does not tell you what is inside. First as you said, they are ALL li-ion batteries. Cylindrical cells are just rolled up pouch cells. The form factor leads to different applications, and those different applications then favor one of the sub chemistries. Add to that, that real li-ion-polymer batteries (where the electrolyte is a polymer) haven't gotten out of the research phase. I guess some marketing guy heard that buzzword decades ago (some as it is happening with "graphene" batteries right now), and slapped it on a product's name just because it has a polymer (i.e. plastic) separator inside or plastic pouch around it.
Get two metal (preferrably steel) buckets with sand and something out of steel to grab stuff. Or use ceramic plates to move the burning stuff into the bucket of sand and have another one ready to shovel sand onto the burning stuff.
great info..im using my bank to power my RC tug boat that is in parrallel with 3 -7ah gelcells, it screams aT full throttle . the 3 gel cells are mainly for ballast, twin 3" screws and 2- 12v tire inflator motors. cheers from the states. Hey kids don't try this at home without adult supervision...HA yeah right
I wonder if the LiFePO4 battery has a built-in protection circuit. It would probably only protect the low-current output though. Maybe that's where the 8A limit comes from.
I like watching videos by diode gone wild and I like the safety warnings I take those warnings seriously I wish to see a video about the Pets of diode gone wild like the cat and a dog I also wish to see longer videos close to a hour ?
I heard this device has very high self discharge. You need it recharge almost every week because after a week and more it lost almost all power. Can you check this phenomen?
this must take forever to charge, I'm suprised it doesn't have a bi-directional barrel jack where you could charge through it and use it as a 12v output. i have a bank that cost like $10 and did that
Looks like a good quality product. The ones i remeber used lipo cels and tended to explode after a couple of uses. The batteries could only suply the current peak brand new, but as the ESR increased it would be too much and overheat them internally. Also chargin at 4.2v isnt the best idea for such a high demanding situation, i rather they charge at 4.1 or 4.0 volts, that helps a lot with the rate of failure.
They are LiFePO4, they don't charge even to 4. They will be fully charged to 3.6-3.7. Even, around 26:00 it's getting explained. Those are not the "standard"(18650) LiIon with 3.6 nominal. LiFePO4 are more expensive and less energy dense.
Video super děkuji za něj! Mám tuto krabičku taky objednanou, ale díky České poště, která balíček od LIDLU převzala už před týdnem ji ještě nemám. Je tam i nějaká BMS? Pokud by nebyla, bylo by pak teoreticky jedno jestli ty baterie nabíjím (náhradním konektorem) pres výstup ENGINE START digitální (modelářskou) nabíječkou ne? Pokud je tento konektor stále pod napětím a napojený přímo z baterek v sérii, nevyděl bych v tom problém. V případě potřeby by se takto dalo nabíjení urychlit, co myslíte?
Of course it's a bit dodgy :). If anything on the board shorted (the 5V buck regulator, the charging circuitry, the balancer...) it could burst into flames. The same applies to the jumpstarter board. On top of it, the LiFePO4 cells will charge from the car. The MOSFETs can't stop this, because they have internal antiparallel diodes. And of course, MOSFETs almost always fail short circuit.
I'm not going to reverse engineer the board in the power bank :D. Maybe the board in the jumpstarter cables. And maybe I'll open the mains USB charger.
Meh.. I'm jealous. I like stuff with LiFePO4 cells in it. I already have such device but mine has a Li-polymer in it. And it needs to be charged with a weird 15V adapter. It has the usual 5V USB, a 12V output and a 19V output for laptops. Mine also has a protection box in the start output. I didn't check what's in it, yet, but it it's bigger than what you have. So, I think, mine has a relay in it. Since yours is LiFePO4.. can you check at what battery voltage / current the circuitry stops charging? The high-current output is a male EC5 connector, which should be female. I made a converter cable so I can use mine to power anything. I use those EC5 connectors quite a lot.
Thank you for such a wonderful, in-depth review with TEARDOWN. It gives us much clearer picture of the product than those 5 minute clips where people just hook these up to cars and show one cold start and call it good. It seems reasonably well made with protection circuits for each cell (sadly not a norm with cheap chinese products) and decent build quality. I was thinking about buying one of these for QRP HAM radio operations and occasional jump staring ATVs and based on your video this seems to be fit for purpose.
I'm glad that we have DiodeGoneWild to test those deadly devices XD
Danke!
It probably has some logic to detect that it is connected to a lead-acid battery, and the 'factory' button temporarily bypasses that logic so that the output can be tested on a more simple load, maybe just a power resistor and a meter for factory test.
When your car battery is not there, no LOAD, it need to bypasses the protection I think.
They forgot to built in an idiot tester too. xD
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly lost my password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Garrett Van Instablaster ;)
@@garrettvan3192 nice bot
The two black wires and two red wires, could be a sensor/power ground kind of thing- while charging there is some voltage drop in the wires, so it's hard to get an accurate reading of the battery voltage through the cables used for charging.
So they run two extra wires just for sensing the voltage (the balance wires have much lower current so don't matter so much)
4 wire measurement
I was expecting this unit to be much worse, but it's surprisingly well-designed, for the most part. It will be interesting to see how well it starts an engine as that will mostly depend upon the quality of the cells. Any Chinese power bank that will supply over 3A to the USB port while maintaining 5V is already above-average. There do seem to be some components missing from the main PCB, but they don't seem to affect the advertised functionality.
Excellent Technical level very useful
English is easy to understand with your accent
I love this accent
Many thanks for your work
Bought one for like 400kč on local street market... and it's awesome :D
it has rubber covers for ports, USB-C for input and quick charge as powerbank
I love your accent! Very uniquely different yet easy to understand…..Subscribed!! ✨💯
You're English
accent is awesome
Before I got myself a hot air station, I used the high beam of a broken H4 lamp @15V for SMD desoldering. I just had to put on sunglasses while doing that.
Holy fuck. when you use 69% of your brain. great idea
Big brain
no joke, pro-ish hot air rework stations use a halogen bulb module for preheating
Eeeeh that is not good idea but if it worked, then i think its fine
Now that's a bright idea
I got this one, my car battery is dying slowly, so sometimes I can't start the car in the winter. This works really well! (yes I know I could buy a new battery for a little more but.. Good thing to have in the car even when you buy a new battery.
A 53Ah battery is only about 50€, i don't see why you wouldn't just buy a new battery.
This is for emergency purpose. When battery voltage is low.
There are some supercapacitor versions which charges from battery and provide high current if battery is old and it's internal resistance is high.
@@poptartmcjelly7054 Because I will buy it later. But right now I have a device that will help me if I accidentally deplete my battery (forget lights on etc...)
Good to know that it doesn't self-destruct after a couple of uses due to excessive current.
@@poptartmcjelly7054 , you can't take your car battery with you when it's cold.
Wow, this looks like it's well worth every penny. LiFEPO4 cells obviously are more expensive that Li-Ion but are safer and putout insane amounts of current. They can also last much more cycles. It might also come in handy for a low power ham radio portable setup :)
That is. Also I see whey they didn't used LiPo batteries. Those have even larger energy density and voltage. However are more expensive and prone to thermal runaway. Because of that LFP is obvious choice.
@@KrotowX also it is much closer to lead acid than regular li ion. With 3 cells you're too low and with 4 you are too high. 4 cell lfp is just perfect.
@@blubbspinat9363 I'Il forgot to mention also that. Thanks.
Lidl has it actually in Germany stores and online. The high-power battery connector is a EC5 connector.
Great video! I loved you reading the manual and taking the time to find data sheets on several components. Not trying to downplay the quality of this product but one thing to note- the data sheet on the two MOSFETS inside of the black box on the jumper cables states that those numbers are for the components mounted on a large heatsink. You can bet those bad boys are gonna get toasty carrying 250 amps. Nobody come at me harsh, not an electrician by any means but I am interested in these types of things.
that is the design. one of those chips most probably has over temp protection that triggers when they get too hot cutting the voltage. The idea of this boosters is to boost for like 3s and cut power. They are protecting the battery cells as they are not designed for 150c continues power, and that is what is drawn at 500A from 3000mah cell. But the reality is that this battery pack can't provide that so this booster will never ever provide 500A.
Looks like this one is for once a quite sensible and useful powerbank. :) Nice buy! Thank you!
Funny when people say they have Cats. In fact Cats have servants.
thought your pic was a moth, funny how nature is repeats looks.
With those things, typically the mosfets are closed when it is plugged in, until it detects a battery. Once it detects a battery in the correct orientation (or the factory button is held), it turns on the mosfets
At 12:03 the datasheet shows a reverse diode buried inside the MOSFET between the drain and the source, so there is any protection against reverse connection of the clips!!!
... this means that you can connect the jump starter to a good charged battery and follow the rule written in the manual (keep away from people and pets) :-)
That's what I was thinking (but btw this body diode is actually in all MOSFETS). Hook this up to a 24v truck and interesting things might happen.
They bottom balance the cells because the high current output can not be switched off based on individual cell voltages. The electronics in the high current wires can only determine the low voltage cutoff with the combined packs voltage. Bottom balancing the cells to the cutoff voltage is the workaround. As long as the cells stay bottom balanced no individual cell should be discharged to far based on pack voltage alone.
Those two HY4903 are N-channel MOSFETs.Nice video 👍
Jump starter, just what I need. I find it so hard to get started. ;)
Those chip s are like vrm s on new computer motherboard . Good video
I've had this power bank / charging booster for a few years now and it actually did start my car when it had a flat battery. By bypassing the USB circuit you should be able to charge much quicker since lifepo4 can be safely charged at 0.5C.
I'm thinking about purchase of similar device. Seems reasonable to do quick mod to charge internal LFP battery faster from my hobby charger in LFP mode.
Nice video , i am amazed how the tiny legs of the transistor can Handel over 200A and don't act as a fuse . 11:50
lol
there is no fuse in a Chinese device because THE DEVICE IS THE FUSE
They are used in every circuit with pulse current, not continuous, so the power dissipated is less...
And, as he explained, the drain current is limited by the transistor's internal temperature, so if the current rises, the dissipated power rises, internal temperature rises (the heat radiator to dissipate the maximum power should be immense), and current will decrease, so no chance to die like a fuse....
Merry Christmas Diodegonewild :-)
ITS FOOKEN NOVEMBER YA DAFT EVOLUTIONARY DEAD END
@Captain Diomeds its a advance merry Christmas
And of course I plan to go to sleep but take a look at TH-cam subscription feed and inside of it there's an interesting video from Diode gone wild :)
Great video as always! Thanks
The LED lense called TIR lense, totally internal reflective. Exactly as you described.
One gets TIRed of those lenses
i wanted too see at least a 200A test load
thank you BTW
How these usually work is they sense the voltage from the battery and you need to have at least like 1V worth of charge in the battery for it to activate the jump start. The button labelled "Factory" is probably for QC testing of the product just before it's put in the package
From what I found out you have to have certain voltage range. This prevents connecting overdischarged batteries, cause if you would charger would send full current and overdischarged batteries might crack when taking in too much amps.
It's DiodeGoneWild, the worst nightmare if every manual writer 😂✌️
tankyou my master...mr dioda is very genius...
there is a 80A 14VDC relay instead of 2 mosfets in umap 12000 c3 version (also no button on battery cable unit)
I don't think the battery has temperature protection included near the cells. The many leads on the balancing connector are just because they used gnd and 12V twice to deliver the current of the 12V output
Yes, I also came to this conclusion. 2 extra wires would make sense as a temperature sensor, but it just uses double wires for the overall positive and negative.
for the led indicator put behind the plastic a transparent black sheet like piece of x-ray .
nice video
There seems to be overcurrent protection because there is a black wire wrapped around the red wire which acts as a current probe.
hello
great video
i have bestek jump starter that stop work it only work if i plug it to the wall plug
what is the problem?batteries?pcb?or something else
thanks
Great teardown. You covered everything. Thanx
Half an hour and no car to be seen... so does it actually work?
First of all thank you for doing these videos in english and I would really like to know what the wrappers on the individual batteries look like.
if it is using the same coil for boosting & bucking, can you used it to charge your phone while charging the pack it's self?????
Great video as always!
I have a question sir!
Battery is directly outputing 12v , if car battery backfired(i mean instantly backing voltage)to the battery,so it can damage the battery,so using diode is safer ithink❤️❤️
Good morning (from Pennsylvania) Mr. DiodeGoneWild!
What is the vapour/smoke coming out from bulb. 18:18
Happens with me also whenever I run these types of bulb overvoltage.
I probably put it on the cardboard :)
HY4903P mosfet looks very suitable for your ring tester...
man, if you were to follow all manuals to the tee, you'd be wearing a hazmat suit with 500 layers of bubble wrap all the time
Hi all, I have only a basic understanding of electrical theory. Can someone explain how the starter is rated at 12V 8A but provides a peak current of 500A? Does this mean the starter motor may draw up to 500A on ignition, and the power bank simply has the circuitry to provide such a current?
12v 8a is for the barrel output that goes into the cigarette lighter adapter. Peak current of 500A is directly from the cells, without going through nearly as much protection or anything, and for starting the engines
Edit:
Also, the 500A output is through that thick-ass blue connector, an ec5 or whatever it is called
It can provide 500a for a short period of time
@@chelarestelar awesome, thank you :)
@@hugoslav843 would that be a limitation of the cells’ capacity or the temperature rating of the components? Perhaps a little of both? Also, let me clarify my question: I am asking if there is some sort of component (i.e. inductors, capacitors) that ramps up the current as needed, or if the current supplied is simply based on the draw from the load
@@chelarestelar is there any component that would serve to ramp up the current as the load demands, or is that essentially what the cell does, provided the conductors have the proper amount of ampacity?
such a large current (100-200 or even 300A) needed for the starter engine coming out of a 12V 3000mAh "lithion" (my own naming) pack all of a sudden? aren't there caveats here? am I missing something?
But what's about capacity measurment? I was thinking that it will be in this video. Hope you will test it out in the next video about this device
This LED lens is actually kind of : Total Internal Reflection (TIR Optical Systems) is a phenomenon in optics, by which light experiences complete reflection at an interface between two media. Most optical fibers prism in binoculars use TIR as the guiding principle.
HI am a little skeptic on the starting curent and ability to start Diesel 2000cmc engines (which typically need 400 - 500A cranking amps to start).
I don t understant how can u make starting current of 500A from a 12V 3Ah lipofe4 pack, capable of delivering nominal 3A @12v. This mean like 150C overcurrent rating (500A/3A).
I used a lot of Lipos for RC models and never come across on cells that could deliver more than 48-65C and there were like high spec cells. So say 65C x 3A nominal curent = 195A starting max. curent. That is still a gap to the 500A advertised. If you put the 4 cells in paralel to give 12A it might get up to 500Amps but at the 3.2V (since cells are in paralel) which also might not start the car as you do not have the 12v needed for the electronics (ECU) etc. So i believe such a starter pach should run a minimum of 4 cells in series to total 12.8V and @ 20Ah capacity per cell to be able to produce the 500A at an average 25C rate of discharge.
Any way to make sure you need like an old fashioned batery tester (w/h power shunt resistor and relay) to test what is the short circuit current for this pack.
Nice video! I'm excited for the induction cooking plate :3 i recently took the old one from my mom apart since the touch panel wouldn't work anymore. It had a big crack all across and hot water found it's way into it. Every component still works though
Plz explain how to bypass the security of induction cooktop coz i am planning to use it to make tesla coil. But unable to bypass the security of it. Plz plz help
Thank you for the note about them all being Li-ion batteries. It is a pet peeve of mine when people call cylindrical cell "li-ion" and pouch cells "lipo" batteries. The form factor does not tell you what is inside. First as you said, they are ALL li-ion batteries. Cylindrical cells are just rolled up pouch cells. The form factor leads to different applications, and those different applications then favor one of the sub chemistries.
Add to that, that real li-ion-polymer batteries (where the electrolyte is a polymer) haven't gotten out of the research phase. I guess some marketing guy heard that buzzword decades ago (some as it is happening with "graphene" batteries right now), and slapped it on a product's name just because it has a polymer (i.e. plastic) separator inside or plastic pouch around it.
Seems to be a nice unit. Excellent tear down.
Get two metal (preferrably steel) buckets with sand and something out of steel to grab stuff. Or use ceramic plates to move the burning stuff into the bucket of sand and have another one ready to shovel sand onto the burning stuff.
fajne sprzęty. interesuje mnie to jaki akumulator 12V tam w środku jest. To CAŁE NIEBIESKIE> ogniwa 18650 tam są?
Great review, are you happy with the portable oscillosope? I am looking for something like that.
Sir power diode ke paller me resistance capacitor sunbber curcite me resistance, capacitor ka value kase nikale pl. Video kanye
great info..im using my bank to power my RC tug boat that is in parrallel with 3 -7ah
gelcells, it screams aT full throttle . the 3 gel cells are mainly for ballast, twin 3" screws
and 2- 12v tire inflator motors. cheers from the states. Hey kids don't try this at home
without adult supervision...HA yeah right
I wonder if the LiFePO4 battery has a built-in protection circuit. It would probably only protect the low-current output though. Maybe that's where the 8A limit comes from.
Not a bad product, much better than I expected. Might even be safe.
I like watching videos by diode gone wild and I like the safety warnings I take those warnings seriously I wish to see a video about the Pets of diode gone wild like the cat and a dog I also wish to see longer videos close to a hour ?
It's a powerbaaaaank so faaar. Thaanks for the reviewwww
better use some sort of breaker for polarity protection, than waste 150w.
Which usb tester is good to buy?
thanks for the educational vids.
I am just thinking are those battries are able to suppply 500 Amps🧐🧐
Helo my friend thanks a lot for this awsome video.
Greetings from México.
I have something similar but the battery died. I pulled it apart and now use the PCB to charge Lipos for my drone.
Interesting, if I will see it in my country I will buy it, look pretty nice.
If the input 5v is boosted to 12v+ how does the balance changing work? Where are all those 3.3v are coming from on the colored wires?
there is no balancing transformer, so it probably just charges all in series and bleeds some current from cells that have a higher voltage.
Could it charge each of the cells in a controlled paralell, so it would not need to boost the input power to 12v for the full serial of the battery?
What schematic is on cable mosfet switch? 🤔🤔🤔
what is that scope meter you use
Now that's is review and inspection :)
I heard this device has very high self discharge. You need it recharge almost every week because after a week and more it lost almost all power. Can you check this phenomen?
this must take forever to charge, I'm suprised it doesn't have a bi-directional barrel jack where you could charge through it and use it as a 12v output. i have a bank that cost like $10 and did that
Spray contacts and tighten them by bending spring contacts on usb meter, it helps.
Your cat seems quite curious..😍❣️
Really good ideas and good work brother
Looks like a good quality product. The ones i remeber used lipo cels and tended to explode after a couple of uses. The batteries could only suply the current peak brand new, but as the ESR increased it would be too much and overheat them internally. Also chargin at 4.2v isnt the best idea for such a high demanding situation, i rather they charge at 4.1 or 4.0 volts, that helps a lot with the rate of failure.
They are LiFePO4, they don't charge even to 4. They will be fully charged to 3.6-3.7. Even, around 26:00 it's getting explained. Those are not the "standard"(18650) LiIon with 3.6 nominal. LiFePO4 are more expensive and less energy dense.
@@stanimir4197
"The ones i remeber used lipo cels"
As in Not This One
>>> Learn to read
Video super děkuji za něj! Mám tuto krabičku taky objednanou, ale díky České poště, která balíček od LIDLU převzala už před týdnem ji ještě nemám. Je tam i nějaká BMS? Pokud by nebyla, bylo by pak teoreticky jedno jestli ty baterie nabíjím (náhradním konektorem) pres výstup ENGINE START digitální (modelářskou) nabíječkou ne? Pokud je tento konektor stále pod napětím a napojený přímo z baterek v sérii, nevyděl bych v tom problém. V případě potřeby by se takto dalo nabíjení urychlit, co myslíte?
Don't you think this jump starter is a bit dodgy bacause there is no fuses in it, thus high risk of explosion and injury?. Thanks.
Of course it's a bit dodgy :). If anything on the board shorted (the 5V buck regulator, the charging circuitry, the balancer...) it could burst into flames. The same applies to the jumpstarter board. On top of it, the LiFePO4 cells will charge from the car. The MOSFETs can't stop this, because they have internal antiparallel diodes. And of course, MOSFETs almost always fail short circuit.
are you going to reverse engineer the battery charger/ power bank charger? that would be really cool
I'm not going to reverse engineer the board in the power bank :D. Maybe the board in the jumpstarter cables. And maybe I'll open the mains USB charger.
@@DiodeGoneWild Yes please open the charger.
7:16 Haha, made my day :D
What the hell, wild animals 😂🐃🐕
No sticker saying warrenty void if opened?
need info on that digital scope of yourse. 29:18
The transistors can only carry max current with a infinitely large heat sink. It just looks good on paper.
Don't call your self a wild animal, you're genius. i lerned electronics from you!
Meh.. I'm jealous. I like stuff with LiFePO4 cells in it. I already have such device but mine has a Li-polymer in it. And it needs to be charged with a weird 15V adapter. It has the usual 5V USB, a 12V output and a 19V output for laptops.
Mine also has a protection box in the start output. I didn't check what's in it, yet, but it it's bigger than what you have. So, I think, mine has a relay in it.
Since yours is LiFePO4.. can you check at what battery voltage / current the circuitry stops charging?
The high-current output is a male EC5 connector, which should be female. I made a converter cable so I can use mine to power anything. I use those EC5 connectors quite a lot.
Can u take a look the inside of the charger ?
An excellent and joyous vid - thank you.
The wires 10AWG are equivalent to 5.5 mm². This is another current limitation for starting a motor
Very good review video
I would like to see a Cold Temp Jump Start test with this LiFepo4 Battery.
after few minutes my ears starts bleeding :D
You've never been to the K-MARK
This is the best component at your channel lol.
on 14:37 You can see vias and PCB heatsink for mosfets
Great autopsy
Have one, it works, simple!