Build the TOS Enterprise from Polar Lights - Finale
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มี.ค. 2022
- In this fifth and final part of the 1/350 scale build up of Moebius Models 50th anniversary version of the Enterprise we take a look at lighting, paint and final assembly and reveal.
Shapeways provided the shuttle craft for the hangar bay. Lighting came from Tennacontrols.com and I also used the premium new addition of the the Polar Lights lighting kit for suppemental lighting. And finally, A big shout out to Lou Delmaso for his Aztek Dummy clear parts and windows masking set as well as his exterior marking painting mask set for all the badges and insignias. - บันเทิง
Wow !!! That's absolutely beautiful... The time that you put into this build was so well worth it... I watched each video today and enjoyed every one of them.. I've seen so many builds of this 1701 and they were all great builds.. But I have to say that I'm really impressed with your's.. You kept it easy, simple and straightforward. And that's something I really appreciate , because it's a hobby that's meant to be fun and enjoyable.. And when it becomes overwhelming , it's no longer fun.. Thank You for sharing your adventures with us .. Again ; Fantastic job , she's absolutely gorgeous.👍
Just wanted to say thank you for these videos. I have watched every minute of all five episodes (and strayed into some of the refit ones) as I prepare myself to get back into modeling after decades and build my own TOS Enterprise. This has been exactly the series I have been looking for and your attention to detail and wonderful attitude throughout is very appreciated!
Very nice. Brings me back to my modeling days.
Love this series, just finished watching it. The only thing I would have liked to have seen is your painting the registry using Lou's masks. That intimidates me.
Fantastic Result, thank you sooo much for this series :-) it´s been a pleasure to look this 🙂
A Spindrift shirt for the Enterprise reveal? Are you trying to cause a spacetime cross rip? 'cuz that's how you get an spacetime cross rip!
Wardrobe pressures are something my shrink and I are working on!!
She came out great Phil awesome job.
Wow with the lights on 👍🏻😍
What's in the box!!? My Enterprise after all these years. Nice job Phil!
Come on…build it!!😃
Beautiful 👌🏻🖖🏻
Awesome Phil 👌, you're right my kit is still in the box lol. Im working on a big project now but im gonna build mine as soon as possible. I already have everything except for the photo etch.
Great to hear!!! Cheers! Phil
The lighting circuit on the two domes really does make it look like the fan blades are moving. Excellent work on the overall lighting and painting details Phil, they really stand out in the low light.
Well done!
Awesome 👏🏻🖖🏻
Great job , I going to invest in this kit myself .
Bravo!!
Hello Phil, excellent video and work mate, Wow, that is a beauty, looking forward to the next build, stay safe and all the best, Lee.
i love this. so much hard work again :D i can sit and watch you for hours building these lol,
& you're right- just spending an hour/ few hours building when you have time is really great too - i've still got my Dr Who TV Movie console to finish (mainly because i'm naughty and heavily modifying it to do secret and fun things too 🙄) I know you did an amazing and amazingly quick build with that yourself :D
Looking forward to your next build x
Wow that was a long video, left speechless be the end result! would love to see it in a darker set up, the lighting is out of this world ! Well done!
Really great series. I’ll build mine when I get better skills.
Don’t wait…just take your time! You can do this!
@@sprueVerse Thank you for the encouragement. I appreciate your positivity.
Great work Phil! Love the color choice looks spot on and the electronics are crazy!
Simply awesome Phil - you've made a great job!
Thanks Ian!
Thanks for sharing this Phil. An absolutely fantastic build! I'm slowly building up the skills required to take on the Polar Lights 350 Refit - I've built a few smaller kits and I feel that I am slowly getting there.
I took on the Bandai PG Falcon last year which was a fun build but went off the rails when using oils to do the weathering. Knocked my confidence quite a bit, which was sad.
That being said, I'm back on the horse, currently attempting Polar Lights' 350 K'Tinga with the help of Lou's masking kit. Got a couple of issues here and there - Photo Etch gives me no end of trouble for some reason, but as you have said before, it is important to keep on going and finish it! I'm of the same mindset as you... Every time I get to the bench, I try to learn something - but your videos help no end with that too. So thank you :-)
So glad to hear you are not backing down! Enjoy! I love the K’Tinga it’s a great model! Cheers!
Fantastic job Phil!
👍🏻
Congratulations on a great build! I watched all three of your videos and the care you put into this build was incredible and inspirational. I really appreciate your encouraging comments throughout too! One question - did you do a final flat clear coat or leave it glossy? It appears to have a little sheen in the video and I was curious.
I am an absolute novice who just tackled the 1:600 Revell model and tried to light it up using some LEDs. It worked okay but the nacelles aren't perfectly straight (a common problem apparently), plus my paint job is pretty rough. I was also disappointed at how the decals reacted with the paint despite following tutorials on proper application.
However, what an iconic, timeless and beautiful design the original Enterprise is! Even despite all the shortcomings I am painfully aware of with my build, it still looks great! One day I may build up the courage to tackle the 1:350 model... what I am hoping is that Polar Lights eventually updates its existing model, which seems to be out of production at the moment.
Hi Scott,
It’s really awesome you are building - my skill is improving with practice and like anything it’s trial and error. Don’t be so critical about how your model turned out! Be proud you made something and look forward to the next build! My studio lights often mess with how a model actually looks in person. My general rule of thumb with sci-fi is to never make something so shiny it looks like a toy. Having said that, the two world orders are utopia and distopia - examples would be Star Trek utopian and Star Wars being distopian. As for decals…most of them suck!!! Some are easier to handle then others but what I would recommend doing is scanning the original decal sheet and making a second set for yourself using decal printing sheets. It’s an easy process.
Cheers,
Phil
“Build Something”!
Turned out just great Phil. I wasn't going to build this kit but you've convinced me to do so. I'm like you I don't like the noisy motors. The deflector dish, where did you find that?
You should be able to find the deflector dish on shapeways - search metal dish 1/350 Enterprise. Cheers! Phil
It turned out great! I understand Wolfbase is no longer in business. Any suggestions on where to find a better base for the model - other than the one that comes in the kit? Thanks.
Reach out to Keith at cozmicscalemodels.com
I'm trying to get my own 1:350 TOS Enterprise. Haven't had any luck 😔
They are out there but getting harder to find. I assume you’ve checked these places - HDAmodelworx, CultTVman.com, trekmodeler - all US based companies.
Can you please post the exact pants/mixes that you used to match the colors? I'm terrible at this and you look like you got a great result
Greetings Phil. Your build turned out great. Have a couple questions about the inner domes on the Bussards. I 99% finished my build in January, but haven't added the inner domes yet. Can you explain how you used the hot glue to tack them in place? I don't want to accidentally damage the circuit boards or the plastic when I'm securing them in place. Also, did you paint the inside or the outside surface of the outer dome with the clear orange? Thanks.
Hi Dan, the inner dome has a locator peg that is supposed to connect to a small motor - as I used the silent LED board from tennacontrols I removed that inner pin - now…you have to be super careful when you do that has it could cause a stress fracture. I nibbled away at mine with some very sharp nippers. The boards themselves will be fine with a few dabs on hot glue it will not harm the board - just try to avoid the middle. The inner dome should seat nicely with a few dabs of CA gel or hot glue. You won’t need much. The exterior dome is first scuffed on its interior with 000 wire wool - try to give it even pressure. I then dusted the interior of the dome with tamiya orange clear thinned with x20 about 50/50 - light, light dusting coats - take your time and let each coat dry for several hours. About three coats should do it but it’s entirely up to your eye and taste! Cheers! Phil
@@sprueVerse Thanks Phil! That helps a lot.
Great build series - thanks! I probably missed it somewhere, but could you provide your paint ratios for the main color?
The process I used is as follows - dupicolor - primer grey - two coats - two base coats of Tamiya Insignia White - Aztek process used light gull grey + Insignia White 50/50 with base white. Please remember you have total control over color make the ship your own it will be awesome! Cheers, Phil
Many thanks. So, I am clear, your "top coat color" or final color is Tamiya Light Gull Grey and Insignia White at a 50/50 mix. Curious, did you seal it with a clear coat? Thanks. @@sprueVerse
I should have added, from watching your series, you wanted to match the model at the Smithsonian. How close did you get? Thanks. @@sprueVerse
Double and triple check your clear coat will not hurt your decals. Do a test off your model if you can. You should gloss coat before you lay down your decals but after the decals have dried that will require a test.
I would say about 90% success!
Excellent build series 👏, Thank you. I need to learn the skill of painting. What resources do you recommend?
Look at a builder on TH-cam called “plasmo” he is amazing and has a wonderful tutorial on airbrush technique - also Vallejo have some excellent tutorials. Start there - you can build on that with dry brushing and using oils for weathering! Painting is going to really up your skill and finish! Enjoy!
@@sprueVerse thanks a million, l want to add phasers and photon torpedos led effect as shown in the Corbomite Maneuver episode, using Tenacontrols board, will share when I get that portion done
Last question for now, Aztec Dummy paint mask you spoke of instead of decals, product #AD-33 from CultTVman?
I think the paint masks are a better way to go because the decal sets can be very brittle and often break very easily. If you follow his instructions the results are flawless! One word of caution. Make absolutely sure your paint is dry and you’ve given it a good sealer coat. If your paint is sealed properly you can run the risk of the masks lifting your paint.
@@sprueVerse thank you, excited to build this iconic ship, your series are informative and most importantly, encouraging 🙂👍
So, I just watched Boyd's full build from 4 years ago and now finished watching your buil. I was lucky enough to find the 50th anniversary edition.. can I ask the base color; what was your mix?
I use Tamiya Insignia white which has a tinge of grey in it.
@@sprueVerse Phil, that's for the refit. Didn't you use XF-12 JN Grey with a few drops of grey for this TOS Enterprise?
Yes! Apologies
@robertherriges6807 I prefer laquers. I think LP-32 is the color match for XF-12, if I'm not mistaken.. been a long time since I've used Tamiya.
Hi Phil,
I came across your build of the 1:350 scale tos enterprise from last year, and noticed you decided to use the round tenna control fan blade boards to eliminate the motors which is what I'm planning on doing on my build. My question is...where did you terminate your tenna control power, and ground wires? Did you terminate them at the Polar Lights secondary control board, or to the tenna control circuit board, as i was thinking of terminating the wires to the Polar Lights board by soldering the plug from the Polar Lights kit onto the wires, allowing me to plug it into the secondary hull board. I already built this model once, and some of the lights failed already using the plug n play method, and I'm not happy with that, so I want to rebuild the ship, only this time soldering all the connections which is what I should have done in the first place. It will also give me a chance to eliminate the whining/humming motors that were supplied in the lighting kit. My build turned out beautiful...I spent 4 months on it, but when you turn it on, it grabs at my gut seeing some of the lights not working, and unable to repair it now that the model is complete. Any advice you can give for wiring the tenna control fan blade boards would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for you time. And as always BUILD SOMETHING😊
Hi Gary! I kept the Tenacontrols board isolated with the exception of the power terminals - those shared the same pos/neg line-in that powers the whole ship. You can also run Ralph’s boards completely separate and put them on their own on/off switch. Either way is fine. Cheers! Phil.
Thank you Phil, I'll try that. Now build something😀
It could be the frame rate of your camera (but I don't think so), but the Bussards are spinning in the wrong direction. The spin should be from the top and away from the ship, or outward. Yours are spinning inward.
Wired optical illusion as they come from Tenacontrols with correct orientation!🤓
Where did you get the metal deflector dish?
You can find it at Shapeways.com - search 1/350 Enterprise
@@sprueVerse Thank you!