At the factory service dept, we removed bearings by heating the case around the bearing housings from the outside with a gas blow torch. This heats the case rather than the bearing to create the differential expansion. Tap the case on a wooden block (nose up) and the rear bearing will fall out. Turn the case over and hold with gloves. Use a brass drift to tap out the front one from the inside. For the red painted engines, use a heat gun and gently warm it. It is important to use minimal heat or the paint will be damaged. During installation we always fit the propeller driver, prop and nut to the shaft until cool. It maintains alignment and keeps the bearings seated until cool. Let it cool naturally.
Mark ----- A very good How-TO on bearing removal. I wouldn't think there would be much of a press fit - more of a slight interference fit being engine is of aluminum and the crankshaft has to pass through it with ease. Another good Tip for one to keep when rebuilding an engine. ----- Rodney
I gotta old M-16 nitro engine from ebay and it was made in 2004. I bought it from a seller with the whole chassis and I had recently just got it to turn over. when turned over It had good compression so I disassembled it all the way until the crank shaft. No matter what method of heating a engine it wouldn’t come out. As I am watching this video, I just realized, I could also get the crankshaft out using my oven. Don’t know why that didn’t click but I was planning on refurbishing it for use and I can now continue to do so I would like to thank you. Also if you have a collection of engines you should upload them to show.
Great topic Mark. I just did this for the first time a few months ago with a "free" OS 55AX that was in terrible shape despite a short operating time. At about 250F I got the front bearing out tapping with a brass drift no problem. But that back bearing was STUCK! I banged on that poor case till my hand was numb. Finally, after setting my oven to about 300F and striking hard the bearing popped out. Whew. Pain in the bottom that one was. 300F is getting close to bad metallurgical things happening so not recommended btw. The liner was also peeled but it came right out without heat. $100 worth of parts and my "free engine" is as good as new.
250F is only about 120C and even 300 F is only about 150C - that is still well below the 200 to 230 C which Mr Robinson used. This would seem to be the reason why more banging was needed than shown in the video.
Thanks for the comment. For cleaning I generally use an ultrasonic cleaner and a tooth brush on the crankcase. Old Caster is never pleasant to remove. I use a cleaner in the ultrasonic called Sea Clean 2 which is great and alloy safe. www.amazon.co.uk/James-Products-Cleaning-Solution-Ultrasonic/dp/B001WL5IGC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Have a question about what to use on brand new sealed bearings. What is the best way to remove the grease from brand new nitro engine bearings, so they can be fitted into a nitro engine for lubrication by the synthetic oil fuel used to run the engine.
Hello Mark, I have two OS Max H60F Gold Head engines that I need to install new bearings in, and possible a new sleeve on the 2nd one that has some rust. The second one has never been run, but the guy I bought it from kept the engine in his garage up north, unlubricated, and now the bearings, and sleeve have surface rust on them (what a shame!). So I need to ask where to buy a new bearing set for them. Would you reply and let me know of a source for the bearings? Thanks!
Hi there, this is where I get my bearings from in the UK - www.hendersonbearings.co.uk/ good price for the bearings and delivery, and a fast service - hope that helps and good luck with the swap
Hi great tutorial, I have two OS 61 max sx engines One is bad and I need the crank out of that to put in the new engine as the new engine crank is to short and the tread is to thick in diameter . Would you possibly know why they use different length and size thread on the crank drive. On identical engines? Its for my graupner scale heli. Hope you can shed some light, Regards
Hi there, thanks for the comment, its appreciated. regarding the crank, I do not know the answer, but you could take them both out and measure them to see if they will fit. I am not very familiar with OS engins interchangability, good luck
Hi Mark, the bearings is the easy part for me, but all the videos I saw the piston and sleeve was already out. I tried to change the bearings on my .61 Evolution engine but damaged the sleeve trying to get it out. The sleeve really gave me a hard time to get out. Is there an easy way to remove the sleeve?
Sometimes sleeves can be difficult, again heat like when removing the bearings, and put somthing like a wooden spatula or thin piece of plastic through the exhaust port into the cylinder, then carfully rotate the engine and the piston should push the cylinder up so getting it moving, after which it can hopefully be pulled out by hand. But dont use anything metal to put in the exhaust port as it will do damage.
The way I do it is to first remove the backplate then heat the outside of the crankcase with a hot air gun around the sleeve area then use a wooden dowel or similar to push the sleeve upward from underneath. Once it comes up slightly you can then pull it from the top. Using leather gloves of course.
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Mahalo for the very comprehensive video on replacing bearings on nitro engines.
Pleased you enjoyed the video
Thank you for tutorial, I have old engine OS 46 AX and want to change bearing, very very helpful
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment 😀
Best "How To" video I've seen for removing and replacing bearings. Thank you for posting this!
Thank you very much, pleased you found it useful, appreciate the comment 😀
At the factory service dept, we removed bearings by heating the case around the bearing housings from the outside with a gas blow torch. This heats the case rather than the bearing to create the differential expansion. Tap the case on a wooden block (nose up) and the rear bearing will fall out. Turn the case over and hold with gloves. Use a brass drift to tap out the front one from the inside. For the red painted engines, use a heat gun and gently warm it. It is important to use minimal heat or the paint will be damaged. During installation we always fit the propeller driver, prop and nut to the shaft until cool. It maintains alignment and keeps the bearings seated until cool. Let it cool naturally.
Very helpful and I like the technique. May be doing this on a glow engine I just acquired.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment
Mark ----- A very good How-TO on bearing removal. I wouldn't think there would be much of a press fit - more of a slight interference fit being engine is of aluminum and the crankshaft has to pass through it with ease. Another good Tip for one to keep when rebuilding an engine. ----- Rodney
I gotta old M-16 nitro engine from ebay and it was made in 2004. I bought it from a seller with the whole chassis and I had recently just got it to turn over. when turned over It had good compression so I disassembled it all the way until the crank shaft. No matter what method of heating a engine it wouldn’t come out. As I am watching this video, I just realized, I could also get the crankshaft out using my oven. Don’t know why that didn’t click but I was planning on refurbishing it for use and I can now continue to do so I would like to thank you. Also if you have a collection of engines you should upload them to show.
Thank you for the comment greatly appreciate, so pleased that the video was able to help, gopod luck with the refurbishment
Hudy Ultimate Engine Tool Kit and be done with it. No heating. Two minutes I can change bearings. Tool is nicely made. Highly recommended
Great topic Mark. I just did this for the first time a few months ago with a "free" OS 55AX that was in terrible shape despite a short operating time. At about 250F I got the front bearing out tapping with a brass drift no problem. But that back bearing was STUCK! I banged on that poor case till my hand was numb. Finally, after setting my oven to about 300F and striking hard the bearing popped out. Whew. Pain in the bottom that one was. 300F is getting close to bad metallurgical things happening so not recommended btw. The liner was also peeled but it came right out without heat. $100 worth of parts and my "free engine" is as good as new.
Hi there, thanks fro the comment, it's really appreciated
250F is only about 120C and even 300 F is only about 150C - that is still well below the 200 to 230 C which Mr Robinson used. This would seem to be the reason why more banging was needed than shown in the video.
Good lesson for all of us. Thank-you!
Hi David, pleased you found it useful, thanks very much for the comment, really appreciated
Your video has been such a help. Thank you.
Really pleased you found it helpful, thanks for the comment 😀
@@MarkRobinson555 yes! 🙌🏼
I do the same thing but without getting the block over 300 Fahrenheit. Works the same way.
Hi Mark, great tip 👍. Can you please share your method of cleaning engine if possible.
Thanks for the comment. For cleaning I generally use an ultrasonic cleaner and a tooth brush on the crankcase. Old Caster is never pleasant to remove. I use a cleaner in the ultrasonic called Sea Clean 2 which is great and alloy safe. www.amazon.co.uk/James-Products-Cleaning-Solution-Ultrasonic/dp/B001WL5IGC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
@@MarkRobinson555 thanks Mark, appreciate your feedback.
@@hirenbshah But note, don't put engines with the ball races still in place in the ultrasonic cleaner. It can easily damage the bearings.
@@johnbirkett thanks John, will keep in mind while cleaning.
Have a question about what to use on brand new sealed bearings. What is the best way to remove the grease from brand new nitro engine bearings, so they can be fitted into a nitro engine for lubrication by the synthetic oil fuel used to run the engine.
Just installed with the grease, it won't do any harm, soon get flushed out as the engine runs 😀
Hello Mark, I have two OS Max H60F Gold Head engines that I need to install new bearings in, and possible a new sleeve on the 2nd one that has some rust. The second one has never been run, but the guy I bought it from kept the engine in his garage up north, unlubricated, and now the bearings, and sleeve have surface rust on them (what a shame!). So I need to ask where to buy a new bearing set for them. Would you reply and let me know of a source for the bearings? Thanks!
Hi there, this is where I get my bearings from in the UK - www.hendersonbearings.co.uk/ good price for the bearings and delivery, and a fast service - hope that helps and good luck with the swap
Hi great tutorial,
I have two OS 61 max sx engines
One is bad and I need the crank out of that to put in the new engine as the new engine crank is to short and the tread is to thick in diameter . Would you possibly know why they use different length and size thread on the crank drive. On identical engines?
Its for my graupner scale heli.
Hope you can shed some light,
Regards
Hi there, thanks for the comment, its appreciated. regarding the crank, I do not know the answer, but you could take them both out and measure them to see if they will fit. I am not very familiar with OS engins interchangability, good luck
Hi Mark, the bearings is the easy part for me, but all the videos I saw the piston and sleeve was already out. I tried to change the bearings on my .61 Evolution engine but damaged the sleeve trying to get it out. The sleeve really gave me a hard time to get out. Is there an easy way to remove the sleeve?
Sometimes sleeves can be difficult, again heat like when removing the bearings, and put somthing like a wooden spatula or thin piece of plastic through the exhaust port into the cylinder, then carfully rotate the engine and the piston should push the cylinder up so getting it moving, after which it can hopefully be pulled out by hand. But dont use anything metal to put in the exhaust port as it will do damage.
The way I do it is to first remove the backplate then heat the outside of the crankcase with a hot air gun around the sleeve area then use a wooden dowel or similar to push the sleeve upward from underneath. Once it comes up slightly you can then pull it from the top. Using leather gloves of course.
What temperature did you set your oven and how long thanks!
I would have it around 200 DegC for about 15-20 minutes