a PR setup should always have double the cone area of the actual sub being used. If you doubled those PR's it would actually perform a lot better than it does. Just one of those subs with both those PR's would be Ideal. Just a little tip for next time...looks cool though! Looks like it's slapping hard as well. edit: just noticed the AMM-1, hell ya! badass!
Steve Meade; so flipping humble he just drops a little gem in the TH-cam comment. Thank you Sir for your knowledge, experience, and all around (bad, lol) attitude.
He did a single sub with two radiators in another video (140 dB with 1000 watts), but two subs with 4 radiators would be ideal. And of course your shop system was slapping hard!
@@BudgetBassHead думаю если пассивные радиаторы повернуть в сторону водителя, или в сторону крыла, а динамики в сторону крышки багажника то можно сломать лобовое стекло)
You nailed it this time bro.there is no passive radiator video on TH-cam comes closer to it. Very educative and the sub sounds very amazing. Keep up the good work bro.
@BudgetBassHead- Im so glad you took my suggestion, and used a pair of active subwoofers, with a pair of these Earthquake Slaps units! These Slaps passives are unlike any other passive radiators i have seen. 99% of most people think you need to have 2x the cone area, as a passive radiator= false, the passive needs to have @ least 2x the Total displacement. So 1 of these 12" Earthquake Slaps passives will work, as long as the 1-12" active woofer has no more than a 1 way X-Max of 25 mm= a total X Max of 50 mm or Less. As these 12" Earthquake Slaps have a Total X-Max of 101 mm👀! These baby's perform Awesome, and in such a tiny space! Great video, and Awesome Db score 🎉, plus bandwidth seems great as well!
25mm not 50mm. I also did a similar design last year with two VCW122v3s in 1.5cf each, and while everyone was saying I would need two WinISD and, Bass Box Pro was saying otherwise. 👍
@@fd1596 - No, i meant what i said, 50 mm Total X Max= Both ways. If i would have said 1 way X Max, then i would have been wrong, but i said Total. How well did your setup perform, with 2-12" v3s, in 3 cu. Ft. Net, and 2- Earth Quake Slaps? How much power/what amp, and impedance? Did you meter it? What size vehicle?
@evilinside5984 50mm would be peak to peak excursion. 25mm would be Xmax which is measured one-way. I have them running on a JP23 in the same orientation (Subs up, PRs back) with an AC Epicenter on a 25Hz filter. They play deep, and the sound amazing on every type of music I throw at them. It's one of my favorite setups. I would definitely like to try them in a 2.25 net per sub like my first VCW single ported design, but with two PRs per sub, and compare the output to the smaller box. It's in a Civic that has a tiny trunk. Never cared to meter it, but it's definitely loud, deep. 👍
should have siliconed that hole inside after running the wire, 24 hours to cure, then wouldve been truely sealed. but i do love your video, im old school coming back into bass after a 20 year hiatus, never knew about passive radiators, thank you boss!
@@chokechange they have value in smaller boxes where port compression would rob the max SPL. Also Steve Meade used some 18" Ascendant Audio drivers with two 18" passive radiators each box and that system was slamming his entire garage.
Have always loved your format. You present in a very informative way even for newcomers without sounding condescending while presenting basic things. I like the tips and tricks you give too. Even if I knew some of them already, it is great form to include them and also good reminders (oh yeah I forgot that). The biggest thing is your composition and editing skills are growing in every video! Skills! I hope you are having as much fun making these as we are watching them.
I've been wanting to do this for years or at least see it done. I told my boss at the audio shop we should be building these a year before kicker launched their passive radiator line.
@17:00 ...2 options: obviously use 2 separate terminal cups on the back of the box (1 for each chamber) OR, use(non-galvanized) bolts through the divider wall inside the chamber to run the signals internally. You could probably still do the 2nd option pretty easily if you still have the box. LOL, like all of us, the problem isn't having enough gear, it's having enough vehicles to install all or our gear into ;) Another great video, hope your back gets better soon... 100% understand that. God Bless!
I did a similar design with two VCW 122v3s. Its a 1.5cf net per chamber with 150 grams of weight on each Passive Radiator. Everyone was saying that you have to run two passive Radiators per driver, but with 2" of xmax I knew the one would be sufficient. Good video. 👍
@@supadupa6891- The post by fd1596, is using 1- 12" passive radiator, per 1- Powered 12" woofer. Which is confirmed by saying 150 grams of weight was used on each PR. I think some of your confusion is you must not of seen @ the end of the O.g. Post, everyone was trying to tell him he would need to run 2- PRs per 1- Powered woofer. Which he did not have too. But every situation is different.
great tip on the hole cutting, only go so deep on your first few passes. this keeps the cutout in place. i have a rotozip with a hole tool, if you just go around, the zip floats and the hole isn't round lol. if you go half and the other half, the cut doesn't line up. but if you shallow cut, then the hole is centered always :)
A good alternative to the NVX is the Dayton max-x driver's. The Dayton max-x driver's have great cone area excellent x max. And fantastic motor force. Built a 2 10 box for them and they work amazingly well and they are taking easily double rated RMS. I am lucky to ride share with the guy that I built them for. He sends them to limit often and they sound great. And they are very affordable.$110for the 10. $150 for the the 12 and $180 for the 15. I had the 15. Very good driver. Needed space back. So went to 2 CT sounds xl 12s sealed also sound great. And they require a fairly small box also.
The Slaps M-12 are hidden gems. There is no better passive radiator. I use 2 of them with one Savard HI-Q 12 in a 1.6 ft box at 31HZ.. I am building the 2nd box now. With a DATS v2 PR systems are easy to tune using an Impedance Sweep. I am positive you can add 2 more Slaps M-12 and get better results. Great work.
i was looking at them, wanted to try 2 with 2 12" Stereo Integrity SQLs... they want to be tuned down to 24hz in 1.6 cuft each and need a LOT of port area with the 28mm 1 way xmax. theres no info out there on these PRs!
@@BenHeienI used the sealed box size or a little smaller for my woofer. When the box is built use a DATSv3 or any way you have to run an impedance sweep. It's best to use 2 slaps for 1 sub. When you run the sweep you will see 2 hump or 3 humps depending on the number of PR's you use. The trick is to get all the humps to the same level by adding weight to the slaps. Turn the bolt around so you can add weight from the outside then when you get the sweep- right turn the bolt back around. The more weight the lower the tuning but also the lower the spl, you can fix that with more power.
@charliewilson3369- This style of enclosure is louder when smaller. Sealed/passives are louder for higher freq Db style burps, when on the smaller side. Ported enclosure's are the opposite, to an extent. All enclosures vary depending on power, & desired peak freq., as well.
Recently I created sort of an experiment sub box. At the time, the slaps were super expensive (they've been going from $40-100). So I bought 2 cheap 12s and removed the magnets. Created my own mount (2"pvc) to the voice coils and weighted them properly with metal washers. Did some testing to get the frequency where I wanted it. This setup of an Alpine type R 12", the 2 12" radiators, and 400W really surprised me! And the low frequency response is crazy with the Epicenter! Out of curiosity, same setup but with a much cheaper Kenwood budget 12" sub. Still amazing results! Next experiment was the Alpine 12" type R in a larger vented box (1.5cuft) vs the kenwood 12"/radiator setup. The radiator box wins no contest! So the
I've been playing with passive radiators and I can't find fault with them. It's such an effective way for a home builder to achieve a great result with their subwoofer build. I just built a 1 cu ft box for a JL 8w7 using an 8" SLAPS radiator. I started with it as a simple sealed enclosure, a few days later added the PR, and tonight I just picked up a NOS JL Slash 500/1, to give the 8w7 full 500w rms to get the final remaining sound out of it. It currently has an RD500/1 and at 3ohms I'm getting around 350w rms. So I'm grabbing those 150w that were left on the table with the new Slash amp. I don't have measuring equipment but I can hear changes, and I love this approach to building boxes. My other box, I used a Kicker PR and tuned it to 35hz by gluing a 100gram weight onto the back. It took about a week of playing for everything to loosen up and really develop that nice low end extention. It's an amazing way to tune without needing to rebuild boxes, cut pipe, and so on. Love it.
I have 6 cheapo Kenwood Road Series 250 watt RMS subs in a sealed enclosure on a "500 watt" Rockford Fosgate amp and it does 145db. Each sub has its own chamber in the enclosure. Can't wait to run em at their rated power. 😆 NVX subs are pretty cool. I love the chassis on em. I've got two that are blown that I'm going to make into a couple of monsters when I rebuild em. Anyway, I'm just babbling.
Passive radiators are interesting because not many people use them, yet you get similar performance to ported boxes without the possibility of port noise (which is just distortion)
And to add to that, you save a tremendous amount of space. For example, 4 12-inch subwoofers usually required a minimum of 4 cubic feet of space. Yet this setup is nearly half of that
@@BudgetBassHead exactly…. I’ve noticed when modeling boxes in winISD that at 30hz it’ll take generally 4 subs sealed to get similar SPL output that a single ported sub. Passive radiators are really the best all around setup for size/output/sound quality. I’m wondering if you could give even more output if you added 2 more passive radiators on the other side of the box 🤔
It's cuz they cost as much as the subwoofers people use them with. Like you said similar output to ported except you pay more money to avoid the chance of port noise
I once had 2 atomic Manhattan 12's and a 500 watt hifonics Sampson amp in a old 5.0 mustang hatch that hit 143.3 I held the 500 watt record at the stereo shop here in my town until it went out of business. (6 years later)
NIce, I have a Slaps 15" and a Dayton Audio ultimax UM15, in a 3.2 cubic feet box also have a home cinema sub(css sdx15 xbl2) with an fs of 19.2hz to try if the Dayton don't play too well. Some great tips for the box too and that Jasper cutting jig is the shiz, I got one a few months ago and all my cutouts are perfect now.
You've stayed consistent and upped your game, congrats. I'm so jealous of that Jasper jig. First run 129dB @ 126W draw, I call that total victory. Please get that meter out of the footwell and closer to head high. You don't listen in the car with your head on the floor, might as well minimize some unwanted vibrations. Very nice build and nice drivers. How would you personally compare Sealed vs. Ported vs. Pass Rads in terms of sound? It might be an interesting series to see those subs in different configs. All in all a very nice video, keep up the work. ;)
Nice but you got to buy the newer NVX vcw v3 1500rms watts and a better cooling system by adding rear perimeter coil vents. My dad has a newer 15" NVX in a 2.25 cf box on a 2000rms watt amplifier. It hits ✔️ it out everyone.
Glad to see you've doubled up your last enclosure, though would have thought 4 passive radiators would be better. You'll have to stick the weights on though or the tuning will go way up. Though with 100mm Xmax (is that peak to peak?) the single passive radiator might suffice.
Really enjoying your videos, kind of stuck inside today because of the weather and feeling under the weather, just curious what you think kind of a reading you'd get at the windshield on a term pro meter? 144dB in the kick is crazy impressive if that meter reads like the new termpro, which is about 7dB tighter than the ones we used to compete with.
Those PRs look exactly like the first generation Magma subwoofer from the late 90s except the bolt in middle. The first generation was only made for a couple of years before they changed the basket, the cone, and switched to dual 2 ohms instead of dual 3 ohms. I've been using the same subwoofer since 1999. Earthquake made in the usa
Impressive, especially for only 1000W. I hit around this score at 40hz with two 12" subs on 3k in a grossly undersized box. The passive radiators really help out with the tiny box... I wish I had done the same thing at the time. I do a ~150 now at 35Hz but I'm on 5k with a couple of 15" subs now. Next step... 8k smart amp and some DeafBonce 302's or something xD
@@BudgetBassHead Yeah it's an endless journey and we're all addicts... my wife asked me just a few days ago "this doesn't stop, does it?" and we've been married for 20 years already. LMAOOOOO
@@BudgetBassHead Oh I’m sure it does shake. I have dual 10s ported because 12s would not have enough air space to hit the lows I wanted. Wondering if this box outperformed the previous box you built.
I was really surprised by these subs I bought 2 off of marketplace in a triangle ported box man them subs were bangin they will take 1500 watts all day long even though there RMS is rated at 800 to 1000
Maaaan was just talking to one of my boys about PRs then I see your video pop up saying 'uploaded an hour ago'. The universe works in some mysterious ways cause I was looking for your update😂 I gave my bud 2 of my EQ PRs yesterday👌I highly recommend you try the V2s or the Pump12s. The Pumps cone and surround look slightly different inside the horn . I just upgraded to Pride M12s and still curious how they would sound in a PR box though the Qts is higher than the M9s 15s in my video. Hmmmm shall we build and find out? 🤣
17:06 I was mixing some music one day and couldn’t figure out what this certain noise was… I kept muting tracks to see which one it was coming from. I turned off the monitors and… there was an ice cream truck outside. I guess I need better acoustic treatment in that room 😂
I know you're throwing way overrated watts into these subs but clean power ain't going to fry coills like dirty clipped power, most drivers can handle way more than rated power if it's clean and some even need huge over heads to come to life. It is its a good power range for the tinkering you do. Those NVX are very nice for their price point too. Love your passive radiator videos
Not a sealed enclosure. It's technically a 4th order bass reflex design with passive radiators in place of ports. 4th order coz the back of the driver is still being used to make sound just like a regular ported enclosure (which is 4th order)
With passive rads, the rule is an 8-second minimum your losing efficency if you press a rad it should take a minimum of seconds for the woofer to drop back down this is maximum leakage recommended to prevent the rads from over extended during long bass runs. You seal up the box properly and your going to see .1-.3db gain and a slight drop in fb3. I had 3 of those eq rads on a 3.2³ft box with an avatar stu 1546 d2 and did 147.3 at 39hz. With the rads invert mounted for tuning weights. You really want to tune the box so you can use as little weight as possible as the more you add, the less power handling they have at lower frequencies. Also I compound 6th order with a small sub and large rads and be insanely efficency. I used 2 6.5in subs in a 6th order with 2 of the eq 10in raids 1 on each chamber with a 2/3 ratio and tuned to a 58-28hz bandwidth and is was stupid 142db on 980w rise to 1.74ohm
I was thinking about 6th order with passive radiators, but using a slot port for the high tuning and a radiator for the low tuning, so from the outside it looks like a ported box.
Overall great to see such informative videos with PRs but on thing, technically a Box with PRs is not actually a sealed box cause it performs quit diffrent frome a sealed box to clarify it it performs like a Ported box but the bonus you get there is no port which could be noisy or takes away box volume so you can build more compact than a same tuned ported box
I habe two skar vxf 12s after displacement 2 cuft per sub. If i wanted to add a single radiator sub how much room would i need to add. Its share the chamber and center port. Im curious to see what it would do in my setup but my know how ends at the passive radiator
Have you ever thought about doing an infinite baffle style system so having your baffle where your seats are and having the subs recessed into the baffle itself, I did 3 X DS18 ZR10.4D 10” subs in a 16 Lancer yes I’ve still got to do sound deadening but it still sounds very decent for a SQL build
Amazing video!!! I’m not sure if this has been said or not but if you added another passive per side you should gain some volume (you are supposed to use 2x the passive for each woofer)
@@Dingleberry1856 this is correct, only one passive has 113.1 cubic inches of space wile it’s recommended to have 226.2 of passive per 12” sub. It would be much more impressive with the proper amount. This is actually shown in the first video.
I wonder what it would sound like if the passive radiators were tightened up a bit so they don't move more than accept themselves.I wonder if it would get louder than one forty four
Well the higher frequencies are amplified more closer to boundaries. The passive radiator has the lower frequencies so can be further away and still considered boundary loaded, so this makes sense.
I have 2 questions, what didn’t you go from end to end and what would happen if you go up the next size on the passive radiator like 10” subwoofer and 12” passive radiator would it work right?
Hey, thanks for the video, bro. Good work and good build. If you could please answer a question for me, I would really appreciate it. Earlier in the video, you showed the inside of the box, and it appeared that you removed the "TUNING WEIGHTS."" Maybe it was just the angle of the video shot. I watched it again, and I can't tell. Can you confirm this and possibly speak to this briefly. Thanks, and keep up the good work
The passive radiators come with large weights that drops the tuning to around 25Hz. Thats too low for daily music, so I removed them; tuning now is around 35Hz.
Very informative. I was wondering if I could correspond with u and possibly either get sum help or at the very least, sum pointers. Lol. I need help with designing a box, help with my lithium battery. I'm hoping u can help me out bro. I'm an old school basshead/newbie...lol
How would you compare this box vs a regular ported box? I've had 100s of systems, this might be what I've been looking for. Sealed SQ with porter output
Hey budgetbashead I'd love to know your thoughts on equal passive radiator cone area to activate versus double passive cone area to activate like in the other video. Thank you for your videos.
@georgepearsall1817- Most people think you need 2x the active cone area, for the passive radiators to work right. Its not 2x cone area, its @ least 2x the Total displacement. These Earthquake Slaps are unique, because they have over 100 mm of Total X Max! So as long as the same diameter active speaker, has a Total X Max of 50 mm, or less, 1 per active, will work great. Other companies ive seen that make passive radiators, have such little Total X Max, that they require 2 passives per 1 active driver. This is where the Earthquake Slaps units are leaps and bounds ahead of other passives! As far as sound/preference goes, Passives perform= higher Db scores, but sound like sealed enclosures, you pick the tuning freq. with the combo., of air space provided, and the amount of Mass put on the Slaps units. Smaller airspace= more boom, less low freq. extension, bigger airspace= Less boom, but more Low freq. Extension.
I was wondering were you got the passive radiator from. To bad you couldn't do 2 cylinder type boxes with a sub on one end and the passive on the other end of the cylinder. Similar to the old bazooka tubes or the jbl Bluetooth speakers wich sound pretty good for the size.💯👍✌️💪
Does the enclosure vibrate excessively? I purchased 2 15" Dayton Audio passive radiators and read that they should be mounted opposing sides to eliminate enclosure from wandering. I would rather have your layout.
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a PR setup should always have double the cone area of the actual sub being used. If you doubled those PR's it would actually perform a lot better than it does. Just one of those subs with both those PR's would be Ideal. Just a little tip for next time...looks cool though! Looks like it's slapping hard as well. edit: just noticed the AMM-1, hell ya! badass!
The AMM1 has been one of the best investments for my channel. Love your creativity. Keep inspiring us. 👍
Steve Meade; so flipping humble he just drops a little gem in the TH-cam comment. Thank you Sir for your knowledge, experience, and all around (bad, lol) attitude.
He did a single sub with two radiators in another video (140 dB with 1000 watts), but two subs with 4 radiators would be ideal. And of course your shop system was slapping hard!
I thought was double the displacement of the woofer not so much the cone area. So if I PR can move x2 the air of the sub it's fine.
@@jaz97
Yep, that's what I have always read as well.
This is one of the best basehead channels
It really is I just wish he had time to make more videos.
Yup a B A S E H E A D for sure 😂
Wish I had some good *_BASE_* in my car
That's cold for nvx v3.... GREAT VIDEO
@@joshholden8561 you and I both!
OMG.... Presentation....editing...MUSIC selection. SUPERB!! I Had to grab the popcorn 10 seconds into the video... 👊 ✊️ 🤛 🤜 👊 ✊️
Thank you so much 👍
@@BudgetBassHead думаю если пассивные радиаторы повернуть в сторону водителя, или в сторону крыла, а динамики в сторону крышки багажника то можно сломать лобовое стекло)
Это было бы страшно! Но положение коробки очень важно. Спасибо за предложение.
You nailed it this time bro.there is no passive radiator video on TH-cam comes closer to it. Very educative and the sub sounds very amazing. Keep up the good work bro.
Man you deserve a certificate of appreciation. You're video editing skills are immaculatant.
Accepted. 💯
I really appreciate the work you are doing with the video quality and science of sound.. Please never stop!
I appreciate that!
Great job with this presentation! Very informative.
👍
@BudgetBassHead- Im so glad you took my suggestion, and used a pair of active subwoofers, with a pair of these Earthquake Slaps units! These Slaps passives are unlike any other passive radiators i have seen. 99% of most people think you need to have 2x the cone area, as a passive radiator= false, the passive needs to have @ least 2x the Total displacement. So 1 of these 12" Earthquake Slaps passives will work, as long as the 1-12" active woofer has no more than a 1 way X-Max of 25 mm= a total X Max of 50 mm or Less. As these 12" Earthquake Slaps have a Total X-Max of 101 mm👀! These baby's perform Awesome, and in such a tiny space! Great video, and Awesome Db score 🎉, plus bandwidth seems great as well!
I was absolutely amazed at how small the box can be. I do plan to get this further, so stay tuned.
@@BudgetBassHead -Oh, i can't wait❤️!
25mm not 50mm. I also did a similar design last year with two VCW122v3s in 1.5cf each, and while everyone was saying I would need two WinISD and, Bass Box Pro was saying otherwise. 👍
@@fd1596 - No, i meant what i said, 50 mm Total X Max= Both ways. If i would have said 1 way X Max, then i would have been wrong, but i said Total. How well did your setup perform, with 2-12" v3s, in 3 cu. Ft. Net, and 2- Earth Quake Slaps? How much power/what amp, and impedance? Did you meter it? What size vehicle?
@evilinside5984 50mm would be peak to peak excursion. 25mm would be Xmax which is measured one-way. I have them running on a JP23 in the same orientation (Subs up, PRs back) with an AC Epicenter on a 25Hz filter. They play deep, and the sound amazing on every type of music I throw at them. It's one of my favorite setups. I would definitely like to try them in a 2.25 net per sub like my first VCW single ported design, but with two PRs per sub, and compare the output to the smaller box. It's in a Civic that has a tiny trunk. Never cared to meter it, but it's definitely loud, deep. 👍
Thank You for everything you do for us Bassheads
Is my pleasure!
should have siliconed that hole inside after running the wire, 24 hours to cure, then wouldve been truely sealed. but i do love your video, im old school coming back into bass after a 20 year hiatus, never knew about passive radiators, thank you boss!
That into was epic bro!!!!!
I’m currently building a single 15” and 2 15” passives in a behind the seat truck box. Cant wait till it’s done. Yours is badass
Passive Radiators are slept on big time. Same with Infinite Baffle.
@@chokechange they have value in smaller boxes where port compression would rob the max SPL. Also Steve Meade used some 18" Ascendant Audio drivers with two 18" passive radiators each box and that system was slamming his entire garage.
Great video again! Passive radiators are amazing. Bought myself Slaps m10 paired with Alpine R2. Best combo i ever had. And i even had JL 12W7 :D
Have always loved your format. You present in a very informative way even for newcomers without sounding condescending while presenting basic things. I like the tips and tricks you give too. Even if I knew some of them already, it is great form to include them and also good reminders (oh yeah I forgot that). The biggest thing is your composition and editing skills are growing in every video! Skills! I hope you are having as much fun making these as we are watching them.
Glad it was helpful!
I've been wanting to do this for years or at least see it done. I told my boss at the audio shop we should be building these a year before kicker launched their passive radiator line.
Your knowledge and ability to explain and teach is unmatched. I highly appreciate the videos man.
My pleasure!
@17:00 ...2 options: obviously use 2 separate terminal cups on the back of the box (1 for each chamber) OR, use(non-galvanized) bolts through the divider wall inside the chamber to run the signals internally. You could probably still do the 2nd option pretty easily if you still have the box. LOL, like all of us, the problem isn't having enough gear, it's having enough vehicles to install all or our gear into ;)
Another great video, hope your back gets better soon... 100% understand that. God Bless!
This is truly an epic moment! One day we will look back on this video and say this is the moment EVERYTHING CHANGED!
That intro was EPIC!
Glad you liked it.
I did a similar design with two VCW 122v3s. Its a 1.5cf net per chamber with 150 grams of weight on each Passive Radiator. Everyone was saying that you have to run two passive Radiators per driver, but with 2" of xmax I knew the one would be sufficient. Good video. 👍
@fd1596- One 12" Earthquake Slaps Passive has a Total X Max of just over 4"= 101 MM👀
So two 12s and one PR can do the trick?
@@supadupa6891- It's not very likely, but If the PR can displace 2x the (Total displacement), of ALL powered woofers, then yes.
@@supadupa6891- The post by fd1596, is using 1- 12" passive radiator, per 1- Powered 12" woofer. Which is confirmed by saying 150 grams of weight was used on each PR. I think some of your confusion is you must not of seen @ the end of the O.g. Post, everyone was trying to tell him he would need to run 2- PRs per 1- Powered woofer. Which he did not have too. But every situation is different.
I love that setup dude.
great tip on the hole cutting, only go so deep on your first few passes. this keeps the cutout in place. i have a rotozip with a hole tool, if you just go around, the zip floats and the hole isn't round lol. if you go half and the other half, the cut doesn't line up. but if you shallow cut, then the hole is centered always :)
I just bought myself a pair of the radiators after watching this. I might pick up the NVX's next.
A good alternative to the NVX is the Dayton max-x driver's. The Dayton max-x driver's have great cone area excellent x max. And fantastic motor force. Built a 2 10 box for them and they work amazingly well and they are taking easily double rated RMS. I am lucky to ride share with the guy that I built them for. He sends them to limit often and they sound great. And they are very affordable.$110for the 10. $150 for the the 12 and $180 for the 15. I had the 15. Very good driver. Needed space back. So went to 2 CT sounds xl 12s sealed also sound great. And they require a fairly small box also.
Always love to see your videos. You make great content. Addressing important issues such as the pr. Thank you.
I appreciate that!
Happy ur posting vids again. Been waiting on this like my next paycheck
I injured my back a few months ago. Is glad to be back
@@BudgetBassHead take care of yourself the culture need u 💪
The Slaps M-12 are hidden gems. There is no better passive radiator. I use 2 of them with one Savard HI-Q 12 in a 1.6 ft box at 31HZ.. I am building the 2nd box now. With a DATS v2 PR systems are easy to tune using an Impedance Sweep. I am positive you can add 2 more Slaps M-12 and get better results. Great work.
i was looking at them, wanted to try 2 with 2 12" Stereo Integrity SQLs... they want to be tuned down to 24hz in 1.6 cuft each and need a LOT of port area with the 28mm 1 way xmax.
theres no info out there on these PRs!
@@BenHeienI used the sealed box size or a little smaller for my woofer. When the box is built use a DATSv3 or any way you have to run an impedance sweep. It's best to use 2 slaps for 1 sub. When you run the sweep you will see 2 hump or 3 humps depending on the number of PR's you use. The trick is to get all the humps to the same level by adding weight to the slaps. Turn the bolt around so you can add weight from the outside then when you get the sweep- right turn the bolt back around. The more weight the lower the tuning but also the lower the spl, you can fix that with more power.
He really knows he's stuff. I bet you could get two more dbs if the box was a little bigger. But you did good.
@charliewilson3369- This style of enclosure is louder when smaller. Sealed/passives are louder for higher freq Db style burps, when on the smaller side. Ported enclosure's are the opposite, to an extent. All enclosures vary depending on power, & desired peak freq., as well.
Killn' it BB! hope ya back gets better quick!
Respect for using passive radiators. It really is unused potential in a lot of set ups
Great video, you should do a comparison without the passive radiators.
Great suggestion!
Recently I created sort of an experiment sub box. At the time, the slaps were super expensive (they've been going from $40-100). So I bought 2 cheap 12s and removed the magnets.
Created my own mount (2"pvc) to the voice coils and weighted them properly with metal washers. Did some testing to get the frequency where I wanted it.
This setup of an Alpine type R 12", the 2 12" radiators, and 400W really surprised me! And the low frequency response is crazy with the Epicenter!
Out of curiosity, same setup but with a much cheaper Kenwood budget 12" sub. Still amazing results!
Next experiment was the Alpine 12" type R in a larger vented box (1.5cuft) vs the kenwood 12"/radiator setup. The radiator box wins no contest! So the
You can probably make a knot on each side of the hole you made in the divider and caulk it up if your priority is to seal it more.
I've been playing with passive radiators and I can't find fault with them. It's such an effective way for a home builder to achieve a great result with their subwoofer build.
I just built a 1 cu ft box for a JL 8w7 using an 8" SLAPS radiator.
I started with it as a simple sealed enclosure, a few days later added the PR, and tonight I just picked up a NOS JL Slash 500/1, to give the 8w7 full 500w rms to get the final remaining sound out of it.
It currently has an RD500/1 and at 3ohms I'm getting around 350w rms. So I'm grabbing those 150w that were left on the table with the new Slash amp.
I don't have measuring equipment but I can hear changes, and I love this approach to building boxes.
My other box, I used a Kicker PR and tuned it to 35hz by gluing a 100gram weight onto the back. It took about a week of playing for everything to loosen up and really develop that nice low end extention.
It's an amazing way to tune without needing to rebuild boxes, cut pipe, and so on. Love it.
Passive radiators can be a fun way to add a little bit of extra low-end.
I have 6 cheapo Kenwood Road Series 250 watt RMS subs in a sealed enclosure on a "500 watt" Rockford Fosgate amp and it does 145db. Each sub has its own chamber in the enclosure. Can't wait to run em at their rated power. 😆
NVX subs are pretty cool. I love the chassis on em. I've got two that are blown that I'm going to make into a couple of monsters when I rebuild em. Anyway, I'm just babbling.
That's a nice setup. Keep us posted on the upgrade.
🧢 🤣
Sealed,,,, high power,,,,accurate,,,powerful
Bro! 😮 Great vid man!
Nice setup in the garage homie!❤
💯🔊
Passive radiators are interesting because not many people use them, yet you get similar performance to ported boxes without the possibility of port noise (which is just distortion)
And to add to that, you save a tremendous amount of space. For example, 4 12-inch subwoofers usually required a minimum of 4 cubic feet of space. Yet this setup is nearly half of that
@@BudgetBassHead exactly…. I’ve noticed when modeling boxes in winISD that at 30hz it’ll take generally 4 subs sealed to get similar SPL output that a single ported sub. Passive radiators are really the best all around setup for size/output/sound quality. I’m wondering if you could give even more output if you added 2 more passive radiators on the other side of the box 🤔
It's cuz they cost as much as the subwoofers people use them with. Like you said similar output to ported except you pay more money to avoid the chance of port noise
Pretty sure you know already, but those passive radiators are tunable. You can add washers to that bolt in the center and lower the Fs.
I once had 2 atomic Manhattan 12's and a 500 watt hifonics Sampson amp in a old 5.0 mustang hatch that hit 143.3
I held the 500 watt record at the stereo shop here in my town until it went out of business. (6 years later)
NIce, I have a Slaps 15" and a Dayton Audio ultimax UM15, in a 3.2 cubic feet box also have a home cinema sub(css sdx15 xbl2) with an fs of 19.2hz to try if the Dayton don't play too well.
Some great tips for the box too and that Jasper cutting jig is the shiz, I got one a few months ago and all my cutouts are perfect now.
Nice passive radiator !!!!
I love it!
stealing this build for my accord!
Enjoy!
You've stayed consistent and upped your game, congrats. I'm so jealous of that Jasper jig. First run 129dB @ 126W draw, I call that total victory. Please get that meter out of the footwell and closer to head high. You don't listen in the car with your head on the floor, might as well minimize some unwanted vibrations. Very nice build and nice drivers. How would you personally compare Sealed vs. Ported vs. Pass Rads in terms of sound? It might be an interesting series to see those subs in different configs. All in all a very nice video, keep up the work. ;)
💯
Yeah I agree. Would be interesting to see the performance in difference enclosure types, even though the driver is better suited to one over the other
Superb 👏 Vid - Wonderful System 🎉
Nice but you got to buy the newer NVX vcw v3 1500rms watts and a better cooling system by adding rear perimeter coil vents. My dad has a newer 15" NVX in a 2.25 cf box on a 2000rms watt amplifier. It hits ✔️ it out everyone.
Thanks for the info
🔥🔥🔥🔥
Glad you like it. Thanks for stopping by 💯
Glad to see you've doubled up your last enclosure, though would have thought 4 passive radiators would be better. You'll have to stick the weights on though or the tuning will go way up. Though with 100mm Xmax (is that peak to peak?) the single passive radiator might suffice.
Really enjoying your videos, kind of stuck inside today because of the weather and feeling under the weather, just curious what you think kind of a reading you'd get at the windshield on a term pro meter?
144dB in the kick is crazy impressive if that meter reads like the new termpro, which is about 7dB tighter than the ones we used to compete with.
It's hard to say what the windshield never really thought about it.
Daaaaamned that is impressive!
Great video!!
Glad you enjoyed it
You should try to add 2 more passive radiators
video coming soon.
Those PRs look exactly like the first generation Magma subwoofer from the late 90s except the bolt in middle. The first generation was only made for a couple of years before they changed the basket, the cone, and switched to dual 2 ohms instead of dual 3 ohms. I've been using the same subwoofer since 1999. Earthquake made in the usa
Thanks for sharing!
Impressive, especially for only 1000W. I hit around this score at 40hz with two 12" subs on 3k in a grossly undersized box. The passive radiators really help out with the tiny box... I wish I had done the same thing at the time. I do a ~150 now at 35Hz but I'm on 5k with a couple of 15" subs now. Next step... 8k smart amp and some DeafBonce 302's or something xD
It's a learning process for sure, even for pros. I have that amp by the way.
@@BudgetBassHead Yeah it's an endless journey and we're all addicts... my wife asked me just a few days ago "this doesn't stop, does it?" and we've been married for 20 years already. LMAOOOOO
Nice. Actually two separate enclosures.
Did air space become an issue with four 12” radiating surfaces?
The entire interior shakes. Needs treatment
@@BudgetBassHead Oh I’m sure it does shake. I have dual 10s ported because 12s would not have enough air space to hit the lows I wanted.
Wondering if this box outperformed the previous box you built.
I was really surprised by these subs I bought 2 off of marketplace in a triangle ported box man them subs were bangin they will take 1500 watts all day long even though there RMS is rated at 800 to 1000
Amazing video! Love you content
Glad you enjoy it!
Maaaan was just talking to one of my boys about PRs then I see your video pop up saying 'uploaded an hour ago'. The universe works in some mysterious ways cause I was looking for your update😂 I gave my bud 2 of my EQ PRs yesterday👌I highly recommend you try the V2s or the Pump12s. The Pumps cone and surround look slightly different inside the horn . I just upgraded to Pride M12s and still curious how they would sound in a PR box though the Qts is higher than the M9s 15s in my video. Hmmmm shall we build and find out? 🤣
I say go for it!
17:06 I was mixing some music one day and couldn’t figure out what this certain noise was… I kept muting tracks to see which one it was coming from. I turned off the monitors and… there was an ice cream truck outside. I guess I need better acoustic treatment in that room 😂
I loovvee NVX
I know you're throwing way overrated watts into these subs but clean power ain't going to fry coills like dirty clipped power, most drivers can handle way more than rated power if it's clean and some even need huge over heads to come to life. It is its a good power range for the tinkering you do. Those NVX are very nice for their price point too. Love your passive radiator videos
I have that same lift cart at work. It is great, but same as yours, it leaks down over a few minutes from day 1.
Not a sealed enclosure. It's technically a 4th order bass reflex design with passive radiators in place of ports. 4th order coz the back of the driver is still being used to make sound just like a regular ported enclosure (which is 4th order)
Ngl It Sounds Like Steve Harvey Narrating This Video😂😂😂😂 But This Is A Nice Build
That's why I laughed lol man I swear he sounds like him
@@TheBoofGod 😂😂😂
link to the battery you are using in your trunk plz ?
Think we need a full video. Use weights on those passive subs
looks great
Can passive radiator builds get windy like ported builds do?
With passive rads, the rule is an 8-second minimum your losing efficency if you press a rad it should take a minimum of seconds for the woofer to drop back down this is maximum leakage recommended to prevent the rads from over extended during long bass runs.
You seal up the box properly and your going to see .1-.3db gain and a slight drop in fb3. I had 3 of those eq rads on a 3.2³ft box with an avatar stu 1546 d2 and did 147.3 at 39hz. With the rads invert mounted for tuning weights.
You really want to tune the box so you can use as little weight as possible as the more you add, the less power handling they have at lower frequencies.
Also I compound 6th order with a small sub and large rads and be insanely efficency. I used 2 6.5in subs in a 6th order with 2 of the eq 10in raids 1 on each chamber with a 2/3 ratio and tuned to a 58-28hz bandwidth and is was stupid 142db on 980w rise to 1.74ohm
I was thinking about 6th order with passive radiators, but using a slot port for the high tuning and a radiator for the low tuning, so from the outside it looks like a ported box.
Amazing video thank you
💯
Overall great to see such informative videos with PRs but on thing, technically a Box with PRs is not actually a sealed box cause it performs quit diffrent frome a sealed box to clarify it it performs like a Ported box but the bonus you get there is no port which could be noisy or takes away box volume so you can build more compact than a same tuned ported box
I'd like to try the 15"s same line in this configuration altho fs looked a bit higher at 31 ish only issue
I habe two skar vxf 12s after displacement 2 cuft per sub. If i wanted to add a single radiator sub how much room would i need to add. Its share the chamber and center port. Im curious to see what it would do in my setup but my know how ends at the passive radiator
Have you ever thought about doing an infinite baffle style system so having your baffle where your seats are and having the subs recessed into the baffle itself, I did 3 X DS18 ZR10.4D 10” subs in a 16 Lancer yes I’ve still got to do sound deadening but it still sounds very decent for a SQL build
can't say that I have.
So, do we have A/B testing on SPL, w/ and w/o the radiators?
Amazing video!!! I’m not sure if this has been said or not but if you added another passive per side you should gain some volume (you are supposed to use 2x the passive for each woofer)
Two times the displacement. Not two times the number of cones.
@@Dingleberry1856 this is correct, only one passive has 113.1 cubic inches of space wile it’s recommended to have 226.2 of passive per 12” sub. It would be much more impressive with the proper amount. This is actually shown in the first video.
Can we see how a shallow mount, with a PR would perform?
I am still searching for more DB’s in my single cab F250.
I wonder what it would sound like if the passive radiators were tightened up a bit so they don't move more than accept themselves.I wonder if it would get louder than one forty four
Have you built any isobaric sub systems?Using mid-level subs driven with about 750 watts.
Also just gor giggles trying firing the active off back and radiator off top of trunk. Run same test
I was thinking the same thing!
Well the higher frequencies are amplified more closer to boundaries. The passive radiator has the lower frequencies so can be further away and still considered boundary loaded, so this makes sense.
Good tip
not sure if I missed it, but what is the name of the music?
great intro btw, gave me goosebumps
This is such a great channel. Keep up the excellent work bro 💪!
Thanks! Will do!
Hey i want to know if you can try sundown sav2s 12s in that box?
What if you shared the airspace without the dividing wall with the resonance be bigger and deeper
Have you built any isobaric sub systems?Using mid-level subs driven with about 750 watts..
I have 2 questions, what didn’t you go from end to end and what would happen if you go up the next size on the passive radiator like 10” subwoofer and 12” passive radiator would it work right?
Yoooo....Working on another PR box my man. Just uploaded a video of it👍👍👍
I will check it out
Hey, thanks for the video, bro. Good work and good build. If you could please answer a question for me, I would really appreciate it. Earlier in the video, you showed the inside of the box, and it appeared that you removed the "TUNING WEIGHTS."" Maybe it was just the angle of the video shot. I watched it again, and I can't tell. Can you confirm this and possibly speak to this briefly. Thanks, and keep up the good work
The passive radiators come with large weights that drops the tuning to around 25Hz. Thats too low for daily music, so I removed them; tuning now is around 35Hz.
@@BudgetBassHead
Did you put a smaller washer or simply remove it altogether?
Very informative. I was wondering if I could correspond with u and possibly either get sum help or at the very least, sum pointers. Lol. I need help with designing a box, help with my lithium battery. I'm hoping u can help me out bro. I'm an old school basshead/newbie...lol
Sweet build Bruh👍🏾
Deff love the box build.. What's the last song test played?
How would you compare this box vs a regular ported box? I've had 100s of systems, this might be what I've been looking for.
Sealed SQ with porter output
I see it as the best of both worlds
Hey budgetbashead I'd love to know your thoughts on equal passive radiator cone area to activate versus double passive cone area to activate like in the other video. Thank you for your videos.
A plan to do a follow-up video and test that theory.
@georgepearsall1817- Most people think you need 2x the active cone area, for the passive radiators to work right. Its not 2x cone area, its @ least 2x the Total displacement. These Earthquake Slaps are unique, because they have over 100 mm of Total X Max! So as long as the same diameter active speaker, has a Total X Max of 50 mm, or less, 1 per active, will work great. Other companies ive seen that make passive radiators, have such little Total X Max, that they require 2 passives per 1 active driver. This is where the Earthquake Slaps units are leaps and bounds ahead of other passives! As far as sound/preference goes, Passives perform= higher Db scores, but sound like sealed enclosures, you pick the tuning freq. with the combo., of air space provided, and the amount of Mass put on the Slaps units. Smaller airspace= more boom, less low freq. extension, bigger airspace= Less boom, but more Low freq. Extension.
Ive always heard that the passive radiator works well being one size larger . Like, 10 inch sub with 12” radiator, or 12" sub with a 15" radiator.
I was wondering were you got the passive radiator from. To bad you couldn't do 2 cylinder type boxes with a sub on one end and the passive on the other end of the cylinder. Similar to the old bazooka tubes or the jbl Bluetooth speakers wich sound pretty good for the size.💯👍✌️💪
Shopping links are in the description.
Passive Radiators: amzn.to/3Df7oBr
NVX VCW122 Subwoofer: amzn.to/3z21VLS
Jasper Router Jig: amzn.to/4dUh6ti
TarAmps MD8000.1 Amplifier: amzn.to/3QYLcC6
love your content bro I'm experience in sealed enclosure yourself 20 yrs of it messing around with sealed enclosure
Thanks for watching!
You should review the American Bass XR
Always wanted to do a PR build. I should have got them when they was $50!! Lol
Can u do another video with them tuned lower? Maybe 28hz
Awesome
Does the enclosure vibrate excessively? I purchased 2 15" Dayton Audio passive radiators and read that they should be mounted opposing sides to eliminate enclosure from wandering. I would rather have your layout.