You look exactly like an old HS friend of mine, Charlie Morgan.. crazy. Good vid too! I have the m52tuB28 right now. Looking to do some cool work to it! Dual vanos though.
Just saying they fit if you look at carillo rod page , they are the same. Imo. Don't expect much out of a m54b25. It's the only m5x motor with a cast crank. Plus the aluminum can warp so bad it will snap head studs in the block still... the m52tu/m54 is just the cast iron design, recast in aluminum.(plus some coolant changes for emissions.) its just not a great starting point for boost. Look, I started with a m54b30 turbo. Only had 28,000 miles. Used a. 140 mls head gasket... nothing but issues. The torque values for all the bolts are so low in aluminum,you will strip a lot just building the thing. It's a lot of money to invest in a platform that might only make it a few hundred, or a few thousand... who knows. But even seems legit went iron block. I bought my m54b30 to turbo based on their old maroon e46 video.... big waste of money imo. (So I rock iron blocks now) if I was you. I would find a iron block. Find a m54 with a blown head gasket (plentiful ) drop the guts from the m54 into the m52/ m50 . They all have 84mm pistons.you can even dual vanos a single vanos iron block head. It's a direct swap more or less. (Iron block flows coolant through the block first. Aluminum flows through the head first.) A m54 crank is the same as a s52 crank. Big mid range torque /better spool if your only going to a 7000 redline.(aka street car)
Just dropped a fully built turbo s52 into my e39 yesterday. SOLID LIFTERS, the key to high rpm goodness on these motors.(Not the s52 tho) Why not go 11mm s54 head studs like Perry/ someguy325? Even vac recommend L19 s54 studs. Also Do you retorque the head studs after a few hundred miles?
the 625+ studs are beast and keep the block happy so we use them without issue. I check the torque after engine break in. Prob not needed but doesn't hurt. Just need a slim socket and patience to do so with the cams still in
Have you ever had one of those Athena cut ring gaskets leak coolant externally? I’m on my 2nd one and it has just a little seepage out of the side. Decked both the block and head and did exactly the torque procedure you described.
No we haven't experienced that before. We are no longer using the cut ring, these motors are so sensitive and we were sick of decking the block and head any time something went wrong
Just got a mint 70,000 mile manual 97 e39 (California car ,one 75 year old owner, 1100$ ) they are out there. If you can't find a m52. Grab a overheated m52tu aluminum motor. Take that crank put it in any iron block. Same part #s
@@SeemsLegitGarage thanks for your replys and videos.......getting an m50 iron block for the build might aswell be safe always want to turn it up, gonna do forged rods n pistons into m50b28 i think it should work. cheers
damn, this video is all I needed as I'm currently building a M52TU with the rotating assembly of a M54B30, will forge it to make it turbo in the future. I've got a question: What timing/oil pump chain would you guys recommend? Iwis Racing?
what do you do with the 02 sensors? coz once youve put on a turbo youve joined bank a and bank b exhausts, so can you just make the car read off of 1 pre cat and 1 post cat for both banks?
How much boost could these space metal studs hold without stretching? Could they hold 30 psi?? Also do you think a m54 block coul handle 25-30 psi of boost reliably???
was bit confused at first when you showed the m52 and it was iron block, I dont live in US and did not know that only US got iron block m52, everywhere else m52 single vanos engines are aluminum block.
@@arturmaciuk9748 there is no 2.8l M50 block. BMW used iron block on M52 in USA because of failures with M60 aluminium blocks cylinder coatings with fuels used in US. BMW played it safe and made m52 single vanos engine with iron block in US
Bro i have an e39 m52tub28 automatic i have just a muffler... I don't know i want a project e39 should i use this one or im going to have problems for everyday use? Should i buy a second e39 manual one? And what i have to build NA engine or should i turbo or supercharger? Any thoughts? Regards thanks you anyway :)
I have a 2000 m52tub28 manual e39. Winter beater, (traded for a glass pipe) I have a 2000 e39 touring I just turbo s52 swapped/manual swapped /ms43 swapped..... I just bought a iron block manual 97 e39 with 70,000 miles for 1100. I also have a 94 e36.... having done it all. Manual swap is easy, buying a manual saves time and money tho. You can turbo the m52tu... but one overheat and it's cooked. I suggest find a early model iron manual e39. Even if it's clapped out,use the parts. (Least amount spent going this way)
@@SeemsLegitGarage you used the Billet Drop-In Oil Pump Upgrade and tensioner? Does that increase oil volume per revolution or is it only for structural purposes? It seems crazy to me that the oil pressure on m52 s52 goes down to around 10 psi at idle.
@@fairchildSCR its just to resist failure, there i no need for more flow. You could have a faulty regulator which is the piston in the pump, which can make it bleed off pressure but its pretty normal to be 15 hot idle. How low is your idle? Bump it up a little. Our billet kits come with o-rings to rebuild the regulator.
@@SeemsLegitGarage I think it's about 700 to 750 psi. It's hard to tell because I just have the stock gauge. The oil pressure at hot idle is probably around 12 psi hot (50 psi cold). Hard to tell on that because it is a 0 to 120 gauge. When I go to autocross and am hitting 7K rpm during minute lap and then slow down I can hear what I think is lifter tick that goes away after a few minutes. That's what makes me think it needs more volume.
No it's M52B28. It's pretty much the same thing except M52TU is double vanos (vanos also manipulates the exhaust camshaft in TU. This is strictly for emission ecology as far as I'm aware and has no benefit performance wise), m52tu has the disa valve (that's what makes m52tu have slightly better torque band on lower rpms), and the stock intake is different (both are badly castrated compared to M54 ones. Just a visual difference here) I can't think of any other changes.
how high do you guys spin those engines and how long do they usually last i want to build a high revving turbo build on my street e36 i have a blown m50 i could build or i could build the m52 thats in the car rn what do you guys recommend?
On the street we never really wear motors out but on the track usually something small breaks, and we keep running because we want to win, which leads us to ruin the motor. Not so much a wear out thing. no vanos M50 came with some awesome valvetrain so maybe build that for high revs
@@drewdavis239 why does the 2.5 have a lot of lag? I’m just learning about these motors. Im aware they are both aluminum block and the 2.5 is at 169hp 2.8 I think it’s at 190hp
m50 would be laggy with the same size turbo/ set up. that's all. prehaps the one I drove just had a large turbo for 2.5. m54/s52 crank has very bad harmonics right around 7200. a k.a. you can't spin them much over 7k. 2.8 crank with solid lifters can spin over 8,000. big power comes from high rpm+ big turbo + twin scroll. If you don't wind out your car s52 aka m54b30 crank has a lot more torque under the curve. Just limited to lower rpm's. Any iron block m5x works. If your starting from scratch .... 2.8 for over 650hp. 3.2 crank if your going street car sub 650. will a s52 make more? (700+?) sure, but it may not live as long for more reasons than one (like thinner walls between cylinders ) I currently daily a turbo s52 installed in a e39 touring. the big torque hit helps this car move out. My e36 will get a high rpm m52 set up with it's lower weight = faster .
OMG, THESE KINDS OF VIDEOS ARE GOD TIER!
Grab some Perry Hubbling lifter magnets while you’re at it 🧲
next time for sure, having a nice engine stand also works though!
A lot of great info, looking forward to running your parts in my individual e39
You look exactly like an old HS friend of mine, Charlie Morgan.. crazy. Good vid too! I have the m52tuB28 right now. Looking to do some cool work to it! Dual vanos though.
please make this a detailed build series im bout to do this to my 328, do u think the stewarts waterpump is ok
they are good yes, get 12mm head studs if you stay alloy. WE have them on our store
V8 is love. V8 is life. Lol I still need to call you
bmw makes V8s :D some pretty bad ass ones :P ..... edit: i checked your channel, hell yeah!
I can only dream of when I can turbo my dd M54b25 E39.
Same rods as a n54 , (m54b25)
@@drewdavis239 so I buy N54b25 rods?
Just saying they fit if you look at carillo rod page , they are the same. Imo. Don't expect much out of a m54b25. It's the only m5x motor with a cast crank. Plus the aluminum can warp so bad it will snap head studs in the block still... the m52tu/m54 is just the cast iron design, recast in aluminum.(plus some coolant changes for emissions.) its just not a great starting point for boost. Look, I started with a m54b30 turbo. Only had 28,000 miles. Used a. 140 mls head gasket... nothing but issues. The torque values for all the bolts are so low in aluminum,you will strip a lot just building the thing. It's a lot of money to invest in a platform that might only make it a few hundred, or a few thousand... who knows. But even seems legit went iron block. I bought my m54b30 to turbo based on their old maroon e46 video.... big waste of money imo. (So I rock iron blocks now) if I was you. I would find a iron block. Find a m54 with a blown head gasket (plentiful ) drop the guts from the m54 into the m52/ m50 . They all have 84mm pistons.you can even dual vanos a single vanos iron block head. It's a direct swap more or less. (Iron block flows coolant through the block first. Aluminum flows through the head first.) A m54 crank is the same as a s52 crank. Big mid range torque /better spool if your only going to a 7000 redline.(aka street car)
This may be a silly question but I haven’t found a proper answer. Can you boost a m52 aluminium block for 400-450whp?
yes you can
Just dropped a fully built turbo s52 into my e39 yesterday. SOLID LIFTERS, the key to high rpm goodness on these motors.(Not the s52 tho) Why not go 11mm s54 head studs like Perry/ someguy325? Even vac recommend L19 s54 studs. Also Do you retorque the head studs after a few hundred miles?
What are you doing for rear diff?
the 625+ studs are beast and keep the block happy so we use them without issue. I check the torque after engine break in. Prob not needed but doesn't hurt. Just need a slim socket and patience to do so with the cams still in
@@shifty1927 Ford 8.8 with an OS giken LSD
@@SeemsLegitGarage i figured thats what you ran. I was asking the op about his e39.
There’s quite a few cars making 4 digits on 10mm arp 2000s
Hey guys, glad you got the new shop! I need to stop by and help you tinker on whatever you need help with.
These bros are awesome!!!
Have you ever had one of those Athena cut ring gaskets leak coolant externally? I’m on my 2nd one and it has just a little seepage out of the side. Decked both the block and head and did exactly the torque procedure you described.
No we haven't experienced that before. We are no longer using the cut ring, these motors are so sensitive and we were sick of decking the block and head any time something went wrong
@@SeemsLegitGaragewhat do you use now?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Mike 🙏
M50❤ M52❤
Where would one find a cheap m52 block? I’ve looked for the 2.8 specifically for a while.
facebook, salvage yards
Just got a mint 70,000 mile manual 97 e39 (California car ,one 75 year old owner, 1100$ ) they are out there. If you can't find a m52. Grab a overheated m52tu aluminum motor. Take that crank put it in any iron block. Same part #s
what u think bout the alloy m52, still good for fully built motors
we had lots of head gasket issues
depends on fuel and a lot of things, 700 is safe
@@SeemsLegitGarage thanks for your replys and videos.......getting an m50 iron block for the build might aswell be safe always want to turn it up, gonna do forged rods n pistons into m50b28 i think it should work. cheers
oh and full turbo system
@@SeemsLegitGarage do you recommend rebuilt vanos or vanos delete, thanks
What is yalls fix for thrust bearing wear? Having some material in the filter after a few track days. Assuming it's my heavy clutch.
damn, this video is all I needed as I'm currently building a M52TU with the rotating assembly of a M54B30, will forge it to make it turbo in the future.
I've got a question: What timing/oil pump chain would you guys recommend? Iwis Racing?
Yea iwis racing is what we run
what do you do with the 02 sensors? coz once youve put on a turbo youve joined bank a and bank b exhausts, so can you just make the car read off of 1 pre cat and 1 post cat for both banks?
yes you single one o2
Great engine
How much boost could these space metal studs hold without stretching? Could they hold 30 psi?? Also do you think a m54 block coul handle 25-30 psi of boost reliably???
They hold 30psi no problem in an iron block. Issue with M54 is block/thread distortion before the stud
was bit confused at first when you showed the m52 and it was iron block, I dont live in US and did not know that only US got iron block m52, everywhere else m52 single vanos engines are aluminum block.
interesting, we ran aluminum m54 for a long time but they didnt last long most of the time at high power
All iron block are m50
@@arturmaciuk9748 there is no 2.8l M50 block. BMW used iron block on M52 in USA because of failures with M60 aluminium blocks cylinder coatings with fuels used in US. BMW played it safe and made m52 single vanos engine with iron block in US
@@arturmaciuk9748 we have iron m52 in the usa
I have a 98 2.8 straight 6 I just bought its an iron block 😊 I can't wait to build...
How do u find a magnesium valve cover for a 98 bmw 528i I have the m52 single vanos and want to upgrade it to a metal one ?
on ebay just looking for old 3 and 5 series valve covers
how many rpm can rich m52 with original oil pum?
intake elaboration ( no turbo)
full exhaust
driven camshafts
engine head machined
control unit
the "e" stands for "einlass" witch means intake :)
Thank you!
@@SeemsLegitGarage just FYI "A" stands for "Auspuff" -> exhaust. I think it is the easier way to remember the correct order.
@@Bemaritohtori lol puff
Bro i have an e39 m52tub28 automatic i have just a muffler... I don't know i want a project e39 should i use this one or im going to have problems for everyday use? Should i buy a second e39 manual one? And what i have to build NA engine or should i turbo or supercharger? Any thoughts?
Regards thanks you anyway :)
I have a 2000 m52tub28 manual e39. Winter beater, (traded for a glass pipe) I have a 2000 e39 touring I just turbo s52 swapped/manual swapped /ms43 swapped..... I just bought a iron block manual 97 e39 with 70,000 miles for 1100. I also have a 94 e36.... having done it all. Manual swap is easy, buying a manual saves time and money tho. You can turbo the m52tu... but one overheat and it's cooked. I suggest find a early model iron manual e39. Even if it's clapped out,use the parts. (Least amount spent going this way)
Great video! What size turbine housing on the 6466?
T4 1.15 divided :)
@@SeemsLegitGarage Im still noob to FI- but is the 1.5" to keep the powerband up high in the rpms?
@@defkon99 the intake pipe? Its just like all we could fit and fine for our power level
Wow sometimes you really can polish a turd! Very cool stuff
engagement!
like subscribe and comment biatch
21:09 why did you not use assembly lube for this?
it was cut from video but the cam journals have spooge in them
i need one of these motors in my e36 :O
Is it the stock oil pump?
No we sell upgraded pumps
@@SeemsLegitGarage you used the Billet Drop-In Oil Pump Upgrade and tensioner? Does that increase oil volume per revolution or is it only for structural purposes? It seems crazy to me that the oil pressure on m52 s52 goes down to around 10 psi at idle.
@@fairchildSCR its just to resist failure, there i no need for more flow. You could have a faulty regulator which is the piston in the pump, which can make it bleed off pressure but its pretty normal to be 15 hot idle. How low is your idle? Bump it up a little. Our billet kits come with o-rings to rebuild the regulator.
@@SeemsLegitGarage I think it's about 700 to 750 psi. It's hard to tell because I just have the stock gauge. The oil pressure at hot idle is probably around 12 psi hot (50 psi cold). Hard to tell on that because it is a 0 to 120 gauge. When I go to autocross and am hitting 7K rpm during minute lap and then slow down I can hear what I think is lifter tick that goes away after a few minutes. That's what makes me think it needs more volume.
@@fairchildSCR I would raise idle to 900 and use 15w50 oil if pushing the car and warming up the oil hard. This will fix your lifter tick
Great video!
aluminum block?
iron
Hi, is this Iron or Aluminium block?
iron
Is this a M52TU? I’m not familiar with a M52 2.8. My E39 has a M52TU 2.8. Thanks
No it's M52B28. It's pretty much the same thing except M52TU is double vanos (vanos also manipulates the exhaust camshaft in TU. This is strictly for emission ecology as far as I'm aware and has no benefit performance wise), m52tu has the disa valve (that's what makes m52tu have slightly better torque band on lower rpms), and the stock intake is different (both are badly castrated compared to M54 ones. Just a visual difference here) I can't think of any other changes.
@@MultiLittlePsycho I have a M52TU28 that’s why I’m mentioning I’ve never heard of the 2.8 M52.
@@paperandmedals8316 m52 2.8 is the m52b28 that you find in the e36 and some BMW I believe in the 96-98 year frame.
how much does this engine assembled cost?
Engine is right around 8K
thank you for replying
Bro Is that Iron block?
yea
How much to send an engine to you guys and get it built for me
depends!
@@SeemsLegitGarage on I have a m54 with 139,000 miles
@@SeemsLegitGarageI’m interested in this as well could you give me contact info to discuss this
how high do you guys spin those engines and how long do they usually last i want to build a high revving turbo build on my street e36 i have a blown m50 i could build or i could build the m52 thats in the car rn what do you guys recommend?
The blocks are the same. Does not matter what block you start with. You just want the 2.8 m52 crank, the 2.5 has a lot of lag.
@@drewdavis239 how about the M54 3.0 crank?
On the street we never really wear motors out but on the track usually something small breaks, and we keep running because we want to win, which leads us to ruin the motor. Not so much a wear out thing. no vanos M50 came with some awesome valvetrain so maybe build that for high revs
@@drewdavis239 why does the 2.5 have a lot of lag? I’m just learning about these motors. Im aware they are both aluminum block and the 2.5 is at 169hp 2.8 I think it’s at 190hp
m50 would be laggy with the same size turbo/ set up. that's all. prehaps the one I drove just had a large turbo for 2.5. m54/s52 crank has very bad harmonics right around 7200. a k.a. you can't spin them much over 7k. 2.8 crank with solid lifters can spin over 8,000. big power comes from high rpm+ big turbo + twin scroll. If you don't wind out your car s52 aka m54b30 crank has a lot more torque under the curve. Just limited to lower rpm's. Any iron block m5x works. If your starting from scratch .... 2.8 for over 650hp. 3.2 crank if your going street car sub 650. will a s52 make more? (700+?) sure, but it may not live as long for more reasons than one (like thinner walls between cylinders ) I currently daily a turbo s52 installed in a e39 touring. the big torque hit helps this car move out. My e36 will get a high rpm m52 set up with it's lower weight = faster .
This is the same M52 that's in my 00 323ci..
no thats a m52b25TU
“I don’t know what else to do on these motors”
Me: ITBS
You guys wanna sell me a completed built motor ? I've got a 99 328i
Shocked its VAC not schrick or Cat cams. Because VAC cams are just Schrick or Cat's rebranded.
of course vac doesnt make cams in house but its their spec to work well with solid lifter, they ramp in differently
The only thing thats m52 about that is the shell
This looks like a m50
Very similar but no this is a M52
100$ block, 15k in parts.
Every m52 has solid lifters after a few years can anyone that pulls them apart truely say those lifters werent completely stuck.
lol
In German out=Aus=A, in=ein=E
600$?? I just paid 1200$