How To Build Strong Floating Shelves - DIY French Cleat Shelf
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2024
- Showing how to create your own floating shelf that is strong and very flexible. By using a french cleat with is bother both removable and very sturdy.
Plans:
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Thanks for sharing this wonderful idea and the craftsmanship. I am wondering if the plans can be made available again.
I've been looking for this video for years! Floating French cleat shelves! I thought I was the only one who made these!
Baba, I salute the craftsmanship. I was looking for some inspiration for “baby-room” floating bookshelves and I stumbled across your video.
All TH-cam comment noise aside, great attention to detail 👌🏾
Excellent job. I really liked your french cleats ensamble technique.
Great video, a true reflection of all the hours you put in to editing it!
Cheers Andrew, Ya it was a little bit longer than I expected. My poor computer 😅
Thanks for sharing your project on video. I am happy that you also shared the plan so I can try en start making a French Cleat Shelf for my son.
Fantastic to hear VanLaBies 👍
Great video with fantastic editing. Thanks for the effort. I really enjoyed watching it.
That you very much 😀
I'm so glad you enjoyed it.
beautiful shelf. Personally, I like to use 14 coats of sealer, 23 coats of paint, and 44 coats of poly acrylic, but it seems you got away with the shortcut for now :P
Thanks C Dee,
I never really know how to judge coating as I find that there is quite a fine line of robust and to much =/
@@Keep-Making it looks great man. I was just joking around because i am MUCH lazier with finishing haha
it's beautiful....
YOU MAKE IT LOOK SO EASY THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR SKILL
Thank you for the kind comments Henrico,
I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Nice job. Planning to try the same method with small floating shelves. I've done this type with a very large floating wall unit and worked great super strong. However for the shelves I would use trim screws to fasten the back wall of shelf for cleat instead of regular screw heads or wood glue and nails.. it'll never moved and be very strong. Just my opinion.
Thanks for the inspiration!
You are so welcome!
This looks amazing - great job. (The plans seem to have disappeared - are they available somewhere else?)
Great video, but the link to plans seems to be broken. Any chance you can fix the link to the plans?
Truly words of wisdom
To many times people say when you give them an estimate, they say what I saw a similar item at IKEA for much cheaper, I simply day well go to Ikea and but it and you'll be happy
End of story
No use trying to consider trying to convince them otherwise.
I somehow strongly doubt that you can "improve" sandpaper grit by sanding it with the same grit. Grit denotes the average size of the sharp abrasive particles (in the past this could be sand or crushed flint, maybe glass, modern sand paper uses aluminiumoxide or siliconcarbide for example) glued to the backing paper, (in your case 320, by the US CAMI standard is avg. 36 µm) so by sanding the sandpaper, you are at best removing some of the coarser particles lowering the grit average slightly, not doubling it to 600, and certainly not tripling it to 1000. And you would still have some coarser particles left, which will leave scratches, meanwhile having removed particles, the sandpaper becomes much less efficient.
Being a house painter/finish worker I can say that this does work to an extent with surprisingly good results for wood or drywall. I never really rub sandpaper together but instead look for a worn piece and save pads from sanding tools. It does reduce the depth of the particle size but not so much the width. I guess it makes scratches less noticeable while reducing the efficiency of the sandpaper. Again, usually okay for drywall and some wood species in between coats to even out the surface and remove grit or hair that got into the previous coat. The finish paint hides the less noticeable scratches. Would not work for super glossy precision coating, hardened surfaces would take too long to sand, and certainly not the equivalent of 600-1000 grit. And I agree that rubbing sandpaper of the same grit size together will miss some particles and leave enough behind for some unwanted scratches.
That looks so much work for a shelves.
Hey Julain, Usually woodworking is way more work than it looks. The key thing of this build is that I wanted a very nice finish plus we get the extra added benefit of a very maneuverable shelf.
Hey I was unable to find the plans for this project and was all over the website...Where is it hiding???
What angle do you rip the cleat?
Great video mate, in England they are more affectionately known as a split batten.....!
Thak you Ronaldo and great to know... I had no idea what there were called
Of course the British wouldn't give the credit to the French!
@@jeffdigiovanni2139 mate it is what it is, they have always been known as a split batten....
I want to build a floating box shelf with a hinged door to cover some outlets and cables under our TV, but need to leave the back open. Any suggestions on how and where to fasten a french cleat to the back if there's no inset back wall to fasten the cleat to? Thanks!
You might consider covering the back and then cutting out openings for the outlets and slots for the cables.
Very neat work. What weight will it resist over it?
Thank you 3T SR,
Well i'm not 100% sure on it's fault limit but I did place a 15kg weight on it and it was 100% fine.
cool vid, do you buy the cleat already with an edging on? never used it before - also the poly acrylic - is that what gives you a nice glossy/shop style finish?
Nop it's just a 45 degree cut along a straight line and your done. You could even do this with a jigsaw if it has a 45 degree setting. As for the finish. The one I had was satin. SO if you used Gloss yes this would give you a high gloss finish. You would need to apply it to a VERY smooth surface tho if you would like it to come out "perfect". Poly acrylic is great for a fast applying hard-wearing surface. Shellac is hard to apply but gives the best finish from what I've heard. I'm just not a fan of how hard it is to apply and how bad it smells.
@@Keep-Making Interesting factoid: shellac is a natural product produced from the excrement of the female lac bug.
Shellac is an interesting natural finish but not very durable and only really useful for old fashioned furniture applications. Largely replaced by much better modern finishes. Interestingly, it has a very similar chemical makeup to polymers and can be considered a natural plastic. shelf life is about a year.
It looks nice but it's a lot of overkill with all the sealer, paint and polyacrylic. Put it together, give it a good sanding and paint it. Done!!
@Maker Tales Between dryings/sandings, are we talking days of waiting between these, or hours and how long did it take until you were able to do the next sanding?
If memory serves me correctly this was turning quite some sunny days and It was between 4 - 6 hours for each layer.
Read the label on the products you use and, based off of temps, humidity in your area and tackiness of the surface, use your best judgement.
I'd recommend using plywood for the cleats and not pine wood.
I found the link but the plans have been deleted. Can you please share??
what are the plugs you screw in to the wall? I googled j plugs but it returns nothing of relevance
Hi Mannymarco, hmmm. In my local building supplies there called J plugs but here is a link to where I think you'll be able to find them online: geni.us/NyjXld1
www.amazon.com/s?k=drilling+drywall+anchors&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
maybe over doing it with the editing...i mean quite cheesy...a simple step by step guide would be be adequate enough, and more useful...we don't really need to see screws and drills at micron level...but end of the it's your time your wasting with all the editing...
It sure would be nice if you, re-uploaded the plans