Thanks for the video man 😍... I bought 3 of these switches to Dubai from ali express for my Toyota fortuner in India. Eager to see if the wiring will work correctly for me...🤞
OEM Green - Red (AF) OEM Green/white - Black (AF) OEM Black/white - Yellow (AF) OEM Blue - Blue (AF) “AF is abbreviation for aftermarket switch” On my 2007 Tacoma, I wired exactly like you did on the second attempt but it didn’t work out for me. I went back and wired as you did in the first attempt but didn’t work too. So, the way how I wired as below and it worked for me, idk how but it worked even though I have the same switch as you had; however, I got the same you issue as you had that was the light turned off when fog lights are on instead of staying on, I assumed this aftermarket switch was internally wired backwards. Anyway, I don’t care, as long as I have fog lights lol. Pin this on top for whoever needs it and thank you for your time making the video.
Hi Dan. Great video. I was wondering if you still had the oem connector for the driving lights switch on the Toyota Tacoma. I have a oem switch and driving lights installed and no connection to the switch. Thanks, Rick.
I have the same dillema these new aftermarket toyota switches are different. They have an internal circuit. Compared to the original switch(mechanical type). New switch Black-ground Yellow-12vdc input Blue- 12vdc output TO relay or load Red- 12vdc input(gauge illumination/parklight) If you bench test the NEW switch and tap the yellow and black wires only and press it on, the indicator light should turn on. The issue might also be(you have to actually check the orig foglight harness), since the orig switch is mechanical type, 2 wires is for the relay coil trigger and ground. And the other 2 wires is for the backlight illumination( 1 wire to back light/gauge(positive) and 1 wire to rheostat(if your car have) if you don't have then its another ground). I have not finished wiring my brother's toyota switch yet, I will have to remove it again and bench test. Update: it was not a Toyota switch it was a generic China switch that has the same design even on other car models(green socket with 4 wires).
I used your orientation for wiring but my tail light fuse (located under the inside switches) blows. Mine goes black, white, red, green. Any suggestions? I followed recommendations in one of the earlier comments.
My thought is, as long as the dash light bulb on the switch is Not led than switch the ground wire and the dash light wire. Most likely the dash light and indicator light share a common ground. If so than if the ground wire and dash light power are reversed, the indicator light will get it's ground only when the switch is off. My idea is that it works like a tail/turn light. If you've ever lost ground to a tail light, if you look the turn signal works normal with the lights off. But with the parking lights on, it flashes opposite the other bulb. It does that because it's pulling it's ground through the other filament, not from a direct ground.
So in fact;the black wire is ground,the yellow wire is positive input(tapping into acc+ for example),and the blue wire is positive out(for light or device),and the red wire is for tapping into the wire that lights up the dash(and that lights up your light on the switch,but not essential for the functionality of the switch itself)?
I think so. Switches only need 3 wires: acc, ground, and switch. The fourth to have them come on when you turn on your lights and the dash lights up is a bonus.
If you look at the wiring diagram for the body control module you see that the blue wire comes from the body ECM and when switched on goes thru the white with black to ground. Power to the fog lights is controlled by pin 7 on the body ECM which has a wire to the fuse block under the hood, thru the fuse, thru the relay to the the fog lights. You are merely controlling ground to the body ecm and the computer directs the power. The fog lights should go off when you turn on high beams and should not work when headlights are not on. the other two control the light inside the switch.
One other thing you could have done besides replacing the bulb in the original is remove the pins in the original connector and put them into the new connector on our aftermarket switch, thereby keeping the original wiring.
you did nothing wrong. Mine did the same as yours when I wired it up. I've tried every possible way and nothing worked how i wanted it to. the best way to get your switch to work how you want it to, is to bypass the factory fog light wiring and buy a led light wiring harness with 2 leads, comes with everything you need ( cheap on ebay )and run new wires from lights to your switch. Plus they will now stay on when you use your bright beams too. I discovered previously on another switch that the top light on switch was too bright and i didn't like it, so on this one I only wanted the bottom light to come on when i turned headlights on, so I could see the button when driving at night. I used 3 of the factory wires and all 4 on switch ( 2 twisted together ) to get it to work this way, the switch worked how i wanted it to. the button is lit so i can see it at night. Next I'll do the foglight on with high beam mod,
I don't know about that. I read a lot of online comments about this kind of switch. It works, but the polarity is different from the OEM switch, so the indicator light is on when the lights are off and off when they are on. I've also read about how to get inside the switch to change and resolder connections to make it work, but that's a bit beyond me. I do want the switch to light up with the other dash lights, so there's one wire just for that. Usually, it takes 3 others to run the lights.
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 Im currently in the same boat you are. I get the parking lights to work but when the switch is on to light the fogs the indicator light does not light. The indicator light need to be on the same side as the relay. I will get things to work right once i get time off from work.
The problem is that the OEM switch is not set up to indicate when the fog lights are on, just when the dash lights are on. So a switch like this with both indicator lights doesn't easily fit into the OEM wiring.
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 ok, update.....i have the same after market switch you have with same issue......problem is the aftermarket switch. I just so happen to have orderd 2 switches way back...found it and plugged the second switch in now works on marker and when you turn switch on the line on our switches now light. Im also not using the second hot wire on the harness. 1 hot operates both sides of the switch.
no need to replace switch, just replace the orange light on switch you took out, easy fix, it's right there on the side of the switch, all you need is a small flat head screwdriver to remove and replace it. I just did this for my fan control knobs.
Yeah, I figured that out later on. I actually made a video showing how to replace those little lights, instead of spending $50+ on a new OEM switch. I with I had known here, but this switch is okay. th-cam.com/video/xl4Pjs7t4Dc/w-d-xo.html
That's a pretty basic one. One is power, one is ground, and the other switches it on and off. Any wiring kit I've seen has a pretty good diagram that shows how to do it.
No. The indicator light is on when the lights are off and off when they are on. That's the best I could do. I think it's because the OEM switch isn't wired for an indicator light on it, so it won't naturally have that function. I've read some stuff about changing things around inside the switch and re-soldering, but I don't want to try that.
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 I think I figured it out. Open the switch up and unsolder led1 ground lead and solder to the relay pin. Unsolder the resistor (R1) lead and solder to dash light pin. Connect the ground and source wires to ground wire black/white (4 on the tacoma connector). Connect the relay wire to the blue wire (3). Connect the dash light wire to the green wire (1). This makes the button ground switching and gets the illumination light to turn on when the switch is pressed. Now all I gotta do is make my wires shorter, solder it better and insulate the splices so i can fit it back into the switch.
I tried this took me forever because nothing is clear as far as instructions from anywhere online one I finally got it my fog lights wouldn’t go on at the same time as my headlights. This is ridiculous
My wires out of my truck are Green Green white stripe Dark Grey white stripe Lite Grey white stripe Wires on my switch from the Top are Red Green Yellow Black Pls help yota brothasss thx
Mines even worst, I tried installing this switch in my Mitsubishi Eclipse 4g none of the switch lights come on and I have to press two times to turn on my fog lights I should’ve just got the oem one so my advice is do not buy this switch it’s hot garbage
You/We are thinking like 20th century logical western Caucasian’s; My wife, like 21st century emerging eastern nation nerds, and would understand the logic of the illumination sequence. I orient, hold or view a road, navigation, topo, or moving gps map North up; top of the printed map page always up. She/they rotate it toward the direction they believe they’re headed. It works for them. Same with global takes a village early 21st century On/Off power switch symbols - O for off, l for on ( or is it he opposite???) How about assembly instruction in some regional Far East translation of English? Get over it.
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [TEASER MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VC689EgdSIw/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video man 😍...
I bought 3 of these switches to Dubai from ali express for my Toyota fortuner in India. Eager to see if the wiring will work correctly for me...🤞
OEM Green - Red (AF)
OEM Green/white - Black (AF)
OEM Black/white - Yellow (AF)
OEM Blue - Blue (AF)
“AF is abbreviation for aftermarket switch”
On my 2007 Tacoma, I wired exactly like you did on the second attempt but it didn’t work out for me. I went back and wired as you did in the first attempt but didn’t work too. So, the way how I wired as below and it worked for me, idk how but it worked even though I have the same switch as you had; however, I got the same you issue as you had that was the light turned off when fog lights are on instead of staying on, I assumed this aftermarket switch was internally wired backwards. Anyway, I don’t care, as long as I have fog lights lol. Pin this on top for whoever needs it and thank you for your time making the video.
Hi Dan. Great video. I was wondering if you still had the oem connector for the driving lights switch on the Toyota Tacoma. I have a oem switch and driving lights installed and no connection to the switch. Thanks, Rick.
I have the same dillema these new aftermarket toyota switches are different. They have an internal circuit. Compared to the original switch(mechanical type).
New switch
Black-ground
Yellow-12vdc input
Blue- 12vdc output TO relay or load
Red- 12vdc input(gauge illumination/parklight)
If you bench test the NEW switch and tap the yellow and black wires only and press it on, the indicator light should turn on.
The issue might also be(you have to actually check the orig foglight harness), since the orig switch is mechanical type, 2 wires is for the relay coil trigger and ground. And the other 2 wires is for the backlight illumination( 1 wire to back light/gauge(positive) and 1 wire to rheostat(if your car have) if you don't have then its another ground).
I have not finished wiring my brother's toyota switch yet, I will have to remove it again and bench test.
Update: it was not a Toyota switch it was a generic China switch that has the same design even on other car models(green socket with 4 wires).
Did you ever do this? What did you find out? Looking to wire my Tacoma soon
I used your orientation for wiring but my tail light fuse (located under the inside switches) blows. Mine goes black, white, red, green. Any suggestions?
I followed recommendations in one of the earlier comments.
My thought is, as long as the dash light bulb on the switch is Not led than switch the ground wire and the dash light wire. Most likely the dash light and indicator light share a common ground. If so than if the ground wire and dash light power are reversed, the indicator light will get it's ground only when the switch is off. My idea is that it works like a tail/turn light. If you've ever lost ground to a tail light, if you look the turn signal works normal with the lights off. But with the parking lights on, it flashes opposite the other bulb. It does that because it's pulling it's ground through the other filament, not from a direct ground.
Could be. That level of electrical stuff is a bit beyond me.
So in fact;the black wire is ground,the yellow wire is positive input(tapping into acc+ for example),and the blue wire is positive out(for light or device),and the red wire is for tapping into the wire that lights up the dash(and that lights up your light on the switch,but not essential for the functionality of the switch itself)?
I think so. Switches only need 3 wires: acc, ground, and switch. The fourth to have them come on when you turn on your lights and the dash lights up is a bonus.
If you look at the wiring diagram for the body control module you see that the blue wire comes from the body ECM and when switched on goes thru the white with black to ground. Power to the fog lights is controlled by pin 7 on the body ECM which has a wire to the fuse block under the hood, thru the fuse, thru the relay to the the fog lights. You are merely controlling ground to the body ecm and the computer directs the power. The fog lights should go off when you turn on high beams and should not work when headlights are not on. the other two control the light inside the switch.
One other thing you could have done besides replacing the bulb in the original is remove the pins in the original connector and put them into the new connector on our aftermarket switch, thereby keeping the original wiring.
Sir what if we connect both red wire (Parking & Trigger) in Ignition ???
you did nothing wrong. Mine did the same as yours when I wired it up. I've tried every possible way and nothing worked how i wanted it to. the best way to get your switch to work how you want it to, is to bypass the factory fog light wiring and buy a led light wiring harness with 2 leads, comes with everything you need ( cheap on ebay )and run new wires from lights to your switch. Plus they will now stay on when you use your bright beams too. I discovered previously on another switch that the top light on switch was too bright and i didn't like it, so on this one I only wanted the bottom light to come on when i turned headlights on, so I could see the button when driving at night. I used 3 of the factory wires and all 4 on switch ( 2 twisted together ) to get it to work this way, the switch worked how i wanted it to. the button is lit so i can see it at night. Next I'll do the foglight on with high beam mod,
Thanks. But for the amount of effort I want to put into it, I may just keep it this way. It works well enough.
Great video. Thanks.
Think what you need to do is cut that top wire and wire that into your activated fog wiring. So basicly you will only be usine 3 of the 4 oem wires.
I don't know about that. I read a lot of online comments about this kind of switch. It works, but the polarity is different from the OEM switch, so the indicator light is on when the lights are off and off when they are on. I've also read about how to get inside the switch to change and resolder connections to make it work, but that's a bit beyond me. I do want the switch to light up with the other dash lights, so there's one wire just for that. Usually, it takes 3 others to run the lights.
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 Im currently in the same boat you are. I get the parking lights to work but when the switch is on to light the fogs the indicator light does not light. The indicator light need to be on the same side as the relay. I will get things to work right once i get time off from work.
The problem is that the OEM switch is not set up to indicate when the fog lights are on, just when the dash lights are on. So a switch like this with both indicator lights doesn't easily fit into the OEM wiring.
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 ok, update.....i have the same after market switch you have with same issue......problem is the aftermarket switch. I just so happen to have orderd 2 switches way back...found it and plugged the second switch in now works on marker and when you turn switch on the line on our switches now light. Im also not using the second hot wire on the harness. 1 hot operates both sides of the switch.
Ill make a video if you like to see let me know.
no need to replace switch, just replace the orange light on switch you took out, easy fix, it's right there on the side of the switch, all you need is a small flat head screwdriver to remove and replace it. I just did this for my fan control knobs.
Yeah, I figured that out later on. I actually made a video showing how to replace those little lights, instead of spending $50+ on a new OEM switch. I with I had known here, but this switch is okay. th-cam.com/video/xl4Pjs7t4Dc/w-d-xo.html
How did you wire the LED light bar switch from the the 3 prong red circle button?
That's a pretty basic one. One is power, one is ground, and the other switches it on and off. Any wiring kit I've seen has a pretty good diagram that shows how to do it.
What can I do if my car has two red wires and both have power?
That's a bit beyond my experience level.
Very nice job thx man
Thank you for the kind words.
Did you ever get ut to work properly?
No. The indicator light is on when the lights are off and off when they are on. That's the best I could do. I think it's because the OEM switch isn't wired for an indicator light on it, so it won't naturally have that function. I've read some stuff about changing things around inside the switch and re-soldering, but I don't want to try that.
@@vfxtutswithdan1893 I think I figured it out.
Open the switch up and unsolder led1 ground lead and solder to the relay pin. Unsolder the resistor (R1) lead and solder to dash light pin. Connect the ground and source wires to ground wire black/white (4 on the tacoma connector). Connect the relay wire to the blue wire (3). Connect the dash light wire to the green wire (1).
This makes the button ground switching and gets the illumination light to turn on when the switch is pressed. Now all I gotta do is make my wires shorter, solder it better and insulate the splices so i can fit it back into the switch.
@@davidruiz6812 I've read something like that. Yeah, I think that's a lot more than I really want to get into.
My 05 oem switche was illuminated until bulb went out
Please, Where can I get the graphic of switch wire you show at 7:47?
I think I got it from the Tacoma World forum: www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fog-light-switch-wiring.211268/
I tried this took me forever because nothing is clear as far as instructions from anywhere online one I finally got it my fog lights wouldn’t go on at the same time as my headlights. This is ridiculous
My switch stays stays on even if my cars turned off
That shouldn't happen.
My wires out of my truck are
Green
Green white stripe
Dark Grey white stripe
Lite Grey white stripe
Wires on my switch from the Top are
Red
Green
Yellow
Black
Pls help yota brothasss
thx
Poooooommmmooonnnnneeee
Translation?
Mines even worst, I tried installing this switch in my Mitsubishi Eclipse 4g none of the switch lights come on and I have to press two times to turn on my fog lights I should’ve just got the oem one so my advice is do not buy this switch it’s hot garbage
Sorry to hear that. Mine's worked great for me.
You/We are thinking like 20th century logical western Caucasian’s;
My wife, like 21st century emerging eastern nation nerds, and would understand the logic of the illumination sequence.
I orient, hold or view a road, navigation, topo, or moving gps map North up; top of the printed map page always up.
She/they rotate it toward the direction they believe they’re headed.
It works for them.
Same with global takes a village early 21st century On/Off power switch symbols - O for off, l for on ( or is it he opposite???)
How about assembly instruction in some regional Far East translation of English?
Get over it.
I think you're on the wrong video.