HUGE thank you, I am building my own cabin and tho I have been doing projects for the last 20 years, I didnt have a basic understanding of electrical wiring. This is going to be a HUGE help.
Seth Taylor my advice would be to use this for it's use of terminology. As an electrician there are several things that can't be taught from watching a video. Best bet is to ask all the questions you can from more experienced guys you're working with and apply them. Best of luck starting out, hope you stick with it.
Thank you for the extremely useful and clearly presented professional content. I will give you an A+ rating on TH-cam! You deserve to marry a kind-hearted, intelligent beautiful woman.
Great job guys! I'm installing in office in my basement and working with someone else's Hokie wiring (they ran the light switch wire back to the receptical box making it the junction - confused me as that made a White lead a Hot lead. After seeing this, I'm re-wiring it to run the power over to the switchbox where it should be. Also installing pigs that I didn't think about to make life easier.
Good video..Great 🔨!!! I’ve built an entire AFrame cabin with 5 tools, only knew how to use 2 of them...Your tutorial is going to be my only resource to wiring that cabin... thanks
You took the time to make an extremely informative video. Why does there always have to be a-holes that make negative comments and try to minimize what you've done? Piss on your garden to make theirs smell better. In my humble opinion, they are loads that should've been swallowed. Great iob on the video!
Good Job Jon. You should have explained that The installer should always bend the wire loop towards the right (so when you screw clockwise you do not un-loop the wire)
John, Dude you make it seem so easy. I have to rewire my work shop (Old Barn) and a couple more old out buildings. I will use your video to guide me through the whole process. Do I need to install breaker boxes?
I have an older home with plaster walls, do you have a video of how to run new wires thru the walls to replace the knob and tube? Thanks for making everything simple to understand!
Skipped parts on video that you did already off camera like how did you fold the wire excess in the device box? Im still learning and need a refresher so thanks for the video over all it was helpful.
@jon scanga, do you have a video on how to run the feed wirr(s) from the circuit breaker? I I noticed that each breaker gas wiring coming from it to the outlets?
Yes. The plastic boxes have a protruding line on them to assist you in positioning. There are also boxes that have a metal flange that the flange is nailed to the face of the stud.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH, for the step by step wiring for dummies video. LOL I built a tiny house, but the electrical wasn't needed as much or traditional wiring was needed. I am preparing to built another Tiny home cabin. So, that one needs more involved wiring. Now, would you believe all the other videos showed how to wire the receptacle together. None, of them said anything about the power feed into the first receptacle. I was watching those like, OK now that the receptacles are all wired, where's the feed wire to power the dam system. So, thank you. I'm on Facebook, like and followphoenixprowler Tiny Home
Thanks for the video Jon. I see you spliced pigtails for hot and neutral for the receptacle. Instead, can you just screw both black hot wires to the brass screws in the receptacle and both white wires to the silver screws on the receptacle? It just seems more simple, but maybe there is reason not to do that. Thanks.
The reason for pigtailing the hot and neutral wires instead of bringing both hot wires and both neutral wires to there respective screws is so you are not relying solely on the recepticle to complete the circuit. For example If you have 5 receptacles in a row and you dont pigtail the 2nd receptacle and it malfunctions then it will also effect receptacles 3,4, and 5. If you have all of the wires pigtailed then it will only effect the malfunctioning receptacle. It is also code to atleast pigtail the neutral wire and it is just good common practice.
Good point Jake! In my comment I was referring to placing one wire individually on each screw since in this case there would be 4 wires (2 black and 2 white) and 4 screws (2 brass and 2 silver). Sorry, I was not really clear on that in my statement, although it is still not to code as Jon explained. You make another great point of what not to do! Thanks!
The n.e.c allows you to do what you're talking about. As long as it's not a multi wire branch circuit (basically two circuits sharing a neutral) however many electricians consider this a poor installation and prefer pig tailing.
Your are a pro and install such devices a lot which makes you fast. It would be helpful if you would slow down when doing this and remember who you are instructing: non pros. Thanks
is there a rule on how to group the wiring...lets say one breaker per area like bedroom, living room etch....or 1 breaker for all the lights and one breaker for all the receptacles etc?
Marvin Vanden Heuvel This was for demonstration purposes only. It is not yellow romex. It is actually just an extension cord that I plugged into a wall outlet to give my project a power source. If you were to do it in a real life setting you would run 14/2(white) romex back to your electrical panel and land your hot wire under a 15 amp circuit breaker.
Jon Scanga Instead of 14-2 can u use 12-2 instead or would this be a issue? but thank you your video helped me on a project i'm working on except i didn't do the pig tail idea that u did i did different
Gregory Johnson I'd like to know where you're getting that information? I'm a licensed electrician and have never heard such a thing and never seen anyone fail an inspection due to using 15a circuits. While I agree that minimum for branch circuits should be 20a, the NEC doesnt share my opinion.
My biggest fear about doing this is connecting all the fixtures. I hate that the outlets and switches have exposed terminals, how do you keep the exposed terminals from touching whatever tiny exposed portion of wire when you have to shove all that mess of wiring back into the box to screw the outlet/switch in? I know the wire nuts are supposed to protect all the exposed surfaces from touching anything but from personal experience trying to shove all that stuff into the boxes it gets pretty tight, and I've seen wire nuts come off at the worst possible time.
After putting on the wire nuts, pull on the nut to make sure it is on tight and won’t come off. If you are adding devices, There are deeper boxes that make it easier. Some guys do wrap black electrical tape over the nuts and down the wires to make sure they stay on. Some also wrap a loop around outlets to cover the neutral and hot screws.
can I use all 12 - 2 romex for all my lighting and outlets? or do I need to purchase 14-2 romex as well. sorry new to this. trying to figure out what all I need to get to wire my tiny house.
I realize your project is probably complete by now, but 12 - 2 refers to 12 gauge (AWG) 2 conductor (has two wires plus, typically a ground in Romex). The 14 - 2 would similarly be 14 AWG 2 conductor. When talking about the gauge of about anything, a smaller gauge is actually larger than a bigger gauge. So 12 AWG is bigger wire than 14 AWG. I'm no electrician by any means, but I don't think I'd use anything smaller than 12 AWG for outlets (so, no 14 AWG for outlets). In most lighting situations, though, I'd imagine 14 AWG would likely be adequate. However, note that there's no practical harm in going with a beefier wire than necessary, but you can run into heat (see: fire) issues if you overload an undersized wire. So using 12 AWG for a project requiring 14 AWG wouldn't hurt anything, just maybe cost a few dollars more; but using 14 AWG wire when the load would require 12 AWG could get risky. All that said, to answer your question, you can use 12 - 2 through your project and shouldn't NEED any 14 - 2. The only benefit to 14 - 2 in typical lighting circuits (and not outlets) would maybe be a slight cost difference.
I apologize for the extremely late response but I just saw your comment and figured I’d respond just in case you are still curious. You can not run a cable from the light fixture to a receptacle without the receptacle also operating off of the switch. You will have to run a cable either from a receptacle with constant power or a switch box that has constant power in it.
I would not do video on how too do the wrong things, homeowner who don't know any better will do things that way, if your going too show how too do something you should use the right supplies to do the video...
It’s true that you should not change wire gauge (yellow sheathed 12-2 to white 14-2), but this tutorial was about the wiring of outlets, etc. However, he should have noted that it is a “no no” to do this and it was for demonstration purposes.
YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO CLOSED THE LOOPS WITH A NEEDLE NOSE PLYERS AFTER THIGHTING THE SCREWS TO MAKE SURE THE WIRES DON'T SLIP OUT OR COME OFF DURING TIME.
Is that seriously how it's done over there? This would never be allowed in Europe! You just wouldn't pass the wiring check and won't get power to your house until you fixed it. Over here, you'll need *way thicker wires*, *as little as possible of those connectors, and if you do, they prefer the Wago ones* (either the clamp or the push-in ones) - so your light switch should be at the end of the circuit (except if there are two light sources on the circuit) and connected to the receptacle, instead of using a connector (if you used two receptacles, you would've had to connect those to each other as well, and then connect the light switch to the last receptacle). I think that's what the gold and silver screw you didn't use are for. And last but not least: you should but your cables in a plastic tube/pipe kind of thing, but I assume you guys would do this as well if it wasn't just for a project. I mean I get why you guys use that many connectors, though... Why does a screw have to hold the bowed wire in place? Over here, you just stick it in a little gap and when tightening the screw, a copper plate starts fastening the wire. That'd be a little more safe in case of a loose connection... There's 20 Amps going through it after all...
The reason pigtails are used is to allow the current to continue to feed the downstream outlets, light. (This is called wiring in parallel). If you ran the wires directly to and from the receptacle (called wiring in series), and a receptacle had a loose wire, then it would kill all receptacles on that circuit. To trouble shoot it, you would have to check every outlet. No safety issue, but I think it might be code to wire in parallel and it would help in troubleshooting.
This is the most detailed rough wire I’ve ever seen. Great job. Truly appreciate it.
HUGE thank you, I am building my own cabin and tho I have been doing projects for the last 20 years, I didnt have a basic understanding of electrical wiring. This is going to be a HUGE help.
This video was extremely helpful for me. Now I won't look like an idiot when I start my new job as an electrician apprentice. Thanks!
Seth Taylor my advice would be to use this for it's use of terminology. As an electrician there are several things that can't be taught from watching a video. Best bet is to ask all the questions you can from more experienced guys you're working with and apply them. Best of luck starting out, hope you stick with it.
There should be more likes and subscribes for All his hard work and great education. Thank you
Thank you for making that simple enough for me to understand.
Thank you for the extremely useful and clearly presented professional content. I will give you an A+ rating on TH-cam!
You deserve to marry a kind-hearted, intelligent beautiful woman.
Very detailed and informative for basic switch and outlet wiring and operation. Great job.
A+ This is the clearest wiring demo I've seen yet. Thank you!
That was the easiest and most helpful demo on electrical wiring that i've seen. Thanks.
YEAHHHH. Well done! I spent a couple of days making pictures and working my way through this video. I enjoyed it very much. Thank you.
John thank u for clearing up a few simple things great video
Awesome, simple video. You nailed it. Thanks!
Great job guys! I'm installing in office in my basement and working with someone else's Hokie wiring (they ran the light switch wire back to the receptical box making it the junction - confused me as that made a White lead a Hot lead. After seeing this, I'm re-wiring it to run the power over to the switchbox where it should be. Also installing pigs that I didn't think about to make life easier.
Good video..Great 🔨!!! I’ve built an entire AFrame cabin with 5 tools, only knew how to use 2 of them...Your tutorial is going to be my only resource to wiring that cabin... thanks
best home wiring video ever. Thank you so much guys.
That is a clear as day tutorial. Thank you so much! you made it easy.
Great Step by step instructions to do basic home wiring. Thanks Jon Scanga for sharing
I like your video jon very informative. I've seen a lot of videos and you made it look really easy
Great video, easy to understand and follow these instructions.
You took the time to make an extremely informative video. Why does there always have to be a-holes that make negative comments and try to minimize what you've done? Piss on your garden to make theirs smell better. In my humble opinion, they are loads that should've been swallowed. Great iob on the video!
Nice job explaining the process thumbs. Up
This was dope John dopeness
Awesome video! Great resource to refer to when I wired my outlet last night :)
Thanks dude got my new chicken house wired up thanks to your educational video!
you make it look very smooth and easy. Thanks
Good Job Jon. You should have explained that The installer should always bend the wire loop towards the right (so when you screw clockwise you do not un-loop the wire)
THANK YOU JOHN AND BRENDAN!! VERY EASY.
Whoop whoop, knocked it out the park doodle!!
awesome step by step illustration thanks
WoAh thanks. Very helpful super easy to understand you should do more if you haven't already. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great video! Very helpful!!
John, Dude you make it seem so easy. I have to rewire my work shop (Old Barn) and a couple more old out buildings. I will use your video to guide me through the whole process. Do I need to install breaker boxes?
Good video for a school project.
Great job!!!
I have an older home with plaster walls, do you have a video of how to run new wires thru the walls to replace the knob and tube? Thanks for making everything simple to understand!
Excellent video!
Thank you, you guys are great.
Extremely helpful. Thank you guys
Gee makes me want to learn more, thanks
Great video.
awesome video
fantastic video! very easy to understand this helped a lot!
Good job guys this video helped me out a lot 👍
great video thanks please do one on panels
very good demo, thanks
Thanks Man. Able to understand it now. You created a new channel? Let me know
Totally awesome video.. thank you, and badass skull shirt too!
Neutral in the switch shows compliance with latest NEC. Thks.
great video very informative
Wow doing an outdoor shed you made it easy to follow. Nice Hammer BTW just kidding.
Skipped parts on video that you did already off camera like how did you fold the wire excess in the device box? Im still learning and need a refresher so thanks for the video over all it was helpful.
Really well done, thank you!
@jon scanga, do you have a video on how to run the feed wirr(s) from the circuit breaker? I I noticed that each breaker gas wiring coming from it to the outlets?
So the boxes should protrude a half inch from the wooden stud for accommodating the drywall?
Michael Williams, Yes, as per the NEC.
Yes. The plastic boxes have a protruding line on them to assist you in positioning. There are also boxes that have a metal flange that the flange is nailed to the face of the stud.
HEY GOOD VIDEO!!! .... NEW YORK
Nice hammer way
Were are your moering right tool
THANK YOU VERY MUCH, for the step by step wiring for dummies video. LOL I built a tiny house, but the electrical wasn't needed as much or traditional wiring was needed. I am preparing to built another Tiny home cabin. So, that one needs more involved wiring. Now, would you believe all the other videos showed how to wire the receptacle together. None, of them said anything about the power feed into the first receptacle. I was watching those like, OK now that the receptacles are all wired, where's the feed wire to power the dam system. So, thank you. I'm on Facebook, like and followphoenixprowler Tiny Home
Great job.
Completely understandable! Thank you 🙏🏻 😊
thanks...very patience and interesting..
awesome video. I totally learned something!!
Good video
Very informative Thanks
Really neat thanks!
Thanks for the video Jon. I see you spliced pigtails for hot and neutral for the receptacle. Instead, can you just screw both black hot wires to the brass screws in the receptacle and both white wires to the silver screws on the receptacle? It just seems more simple, but maybe there is reason not to do that. Thanks.
The reason for pigtailing the hot and neutral wires instead of bringing both hot wires and both neutral wires to there respective screws is so you are not relying solely on the recepticle to complete the circuit. For example If you have 5 receptacles in a row and you dont pigtail the 2nd receptacle and it malfunctions then it will also effect receptacles 3,4, and 5. If you have all of the wires pigtailed then it will only effect the malfunctioning receptacle. It is also code to atleast pigtail the neutral wire and it is just good common practice.
That totally makes sense. Thanks!
Jeff Hirata as an electrician if I opened an outlet box and saw two hot wires on one screw I would flip a shit lol
Good point Jake! In my comment I was referring to placing one wire individually on each screw since in this case there would be 4 wires (2 black and 2 white) and 4 screws (2 brass and 2 silver). Sorry, I was not really clear on that in my statement, although it is still not to code as Jon explained. You make another great point of what not to do! Thanks!
The n.e.c allows you to do what you're talking about. As long as it's not a multi wire branch circuit (basically two circuits sharing a neutral) however many electricians consider this a poor installation and prefer pig tailing.
Your are a pro and install such devices a lot which makes you fast. It would be helpful if you would slow down when doing this and remember who you are instructing: non pros. Thanks
You can click on the little gear wheel in the lower right of the screen, and click on "settings." There you can slow the video and voice way down:-)
good job. thanks.
WHY DIDN'T YOU INSTALLED A CHANDELIER INSTEAD OF A REGULAR LIGHT FIXTURE?
Lots of thank you sir
Just what I was needing to know'!
Best I've seen
Great video thank you! :)
Wilson Gomez
is there a rule on how to group the wiring...lets say one breaker per area like bedroom, living room etch....or 1 breaker for all the lights and one breaker for all the receptacles etc?
nice guys
I see you used yellow romex going to the breaker. Please explain that.
Marvin Vanden Heuvel This was for demonstration purposes only. It is not yellow romex. It is actually just an extension cord that I plugged into a wall outlet to give my project a power source. If you were to do it in a real life setting you would run 14/2(white) romex back to your electrical panel and land your hot wire under a 15 amp circuit breaker.
Jon Scanga Instead of 14-2 can u use 12-2 instead or would this be a issue? but thank you your video helped me on a project i'm working on except i didn't do the pig tail idea that u did i did different
15 amp circuit breakers have been outlawed... but everything else looks good.. great info
nothing less than 20
Gregory Johnson I'd like to know where you're getting that information? I'm a licensed electrician and have never heard such a thing and never seen anyone fail an inspection due to using 15a circuits. While I agree that minimum for branch circuits should be 20a, the NEC doesnt share my opinion.
My biggest fear about doing this is connecting all the fixtures. I hate that the outlets and switches have exposed terminals, how do you keep the exposed terminals from touching whatever tiny exposed portion of wire when you have to shove all that mess of wiring back into the box to screw the outlet/switch in? I know the wire nuts are supposed to protect all the exposed surfaces from touching anything but from personal experience trying to shove all that stuff into the boxes it gets pretty tight, and I've seen wire nuts come off at the worst possible time.
I have the same fear
you could just insulate anything exposed if you really wanted to
After putting on the wire nuts, pull on the nut to make sure it is on tight and won’t come off. If you are adding devices, There are deeper boxes that make it easier. Some guys do wrap black electrical tape over the nuts and down the wires to make sure they stay on. Some also wrap a loop around outlets to cover the neutral and hot screws.
can I use all 12 - 2 romex for all my lighting and outlets? or do I need to purchase 14-2 romex as well. sorry new to this. trying to figure out what all I need to get to wire my tiny house.
I realize your project is probably complete by now, but 12 - 2 refers to 12 gauge (AWG) 2 conductor (has two wires plus, typically a ground in Romex). The 14 - 2 would similarly be 14 AWG 2 conductor. When talking about the gauge of about anything, a smaller gauge is actually larger than a bigger gauge. So 12 AWG is bigger wire than 14 AWG. I'm no electrician by any means, but I don't think I'd use anything smaller than 12 AWG for outlets (so, no 14 AWG for outlets). In most lighting situations, though, I'd imagine 14 AWG would likely be adequate. However, note that there's no practical harm in going with a beefier wire than necessary, but you can run into heat (see: fire) issues if you overload an undersized wire. So using 12 AWG for a project requiring 14 AWG wouldn't hurt anything, just maybe cost a few dollars more; but using 14 AWG wire when the load would require 12 AWG could get risky.
All that said, to answer your question, you can use 12 - 2 through your project and shouldn't NEED any 14 - 2. The only benefit to 14 - 2 in typical lighting circuits (and not outlets) would maybe be a slight cost difference.
Thank you for the good explanation.
Dolly Davis you can use 12-2 for everything except the stove/dryer/and any SUb panels.
Dolly Davis b
Don't you put lights and power outlets on a different circuit ?
Not normally
lights and outlets go on the same circuit for each room (e.g. kitchen, living room, bathroom)
very helpful...thanks!
What if the light was running to another outlet box. How do you get it to NOT turn on and off with the light. Thanks in advance!
I apologize for the extremely late response but I just saw your comment and figured I’d respond just in case you are still curious. You can not run a cable from the light fixture to a receptacle without the receptacle also operating off of the switch. You will have to run a cable either from a receptacle with constant power or a switch box that has constant power in it.
Well said
you guys are sweet..
I didn’t follow what the pigtails were for and what you did with them after they were twisted.
Correct me if wrong, but hanging a light fixture on an single gang box is not too code..
sparky0288 You would be correct sir! An 8b would be correct but for the purpose for this school project it had to suffice
I would not do video on how too do the wrong things, homeowner who don't know any better will do things that way, if your going too show how too do something you should use the right supplies to do the video...
sparky0288 Thanks for the constructive criticism. I'll keep it in mind next time!
@@sparky0288
You should learn the correct ways of using to & too.
@@realTlMBOSLlCE I had two much work too do that day
thank you
it looks to me like you are using 12/2 wire and then going to 14/2 wire which is a no no
That is true
It’s true that you should not change wire gauge (yellow sheathed 12-2 to white 14-2), but this tutorial was about the wiring of outlets, etc. However, he should have noted that it is a “no no” to do this and it was for demonstration purposes.
nice
Thanks guys!
why did the philips appear to be covered in white tape or something?
I did something similar with Avasva solutions.
Bro this is a good video but you need to remake it to 720p
Great fucking video bud
How to get a clear video would be a good tuto for you
Thank you. I truly appreciate your input.
yea i better stop watching these videos i get freaking panik attacks from them lol
jon use a hammer bro also the first tool you showed are not side cutters they are linesman
YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO CLOSED THE LOOPS WITH A NEEDLE NOSE PLYERS AFTER THIGHTING THE SCREWS TO MAKE SURE THE WIRES DON'T SLIP OUT OR COME OFF DURING TIME.
Is that seriously how it's done over there? This would never be allowed in Europe! You just wouldn't pass the wiring check and won't get power to your house until you fixed it.
Over here, you'll need *way thicker wires*, *as little as possible of those connectors, and if you do, they prefer the Wago ones* (either the clamp or the push-in ones) - so your light switch should be at the end of the circuit (except if there are two light sources on the circuit) and connected to the receptacle, instead of using a connector (if you used two receptacles, you would've had to connect those to each other as well, and then connect the light switch to the last receptacle). I think that's what the gold and silver screw you didn't use are for.
And last but not least: you should but your cables in a plastic tube/pipe kind of thing, but I assume you guys would do this as well if it wasn't just for a project.
I mean I get why you guys use that many connectors, though... Why does a screw have to hold the bowed wire in place?
Over here, you just stick it in a little gap and when tightening the screw, a copper plate starts fastening the wire. That'd be a little more safe in case of a loose connection... There's 20 Amps going through it after all...
you don't need pigtails on receptacles
The reason pigtails are used is to allow the current to continue to feed the downstream outlets, light. (This is called wiring in parallel). If you ran the wires directly to and from the receptacle (called wiring in series), and a receptacle had a loose wire, then it would kill all receptacles on that circuit. To trouble shoot it, you would have to check every outlet. No safety issue, but I think it might be code to wire in parallel and it would help in troubleshooting.
I made it with woodprix handbooks !
Jon, can you remove the tag "internet electrician" please. That is a trademarked name, registered by myself. Thanks!
Terry Peterman i dont have that as a tag.
I was just doing some SEO searches last night and they had the tag beside your channel. Maybe TH-cam stuck it there with my search terms? No worries!
Ok video but lack of pro ppe.