A few tips from a guy bending in Chicagoland since 1977. Loose the loaded toolpouch when running pipe. You don't need all that weight slowing you down. All you need are uninsulated 420 channelocks, a screwdriver with a Klein reamer attached, tape measure, pencil and 4 pocket nail apron. You want to be able to work light and fast and have everything you need right in that nail apron. Using a marker is bad for exposed work as it bleeds through paint and you're always having to take the cap off and on the marker which slows you down. Upgrade to a small battery impact for mounting boxes and tightening fittings. Wear sturdy shoes or your right foot will kill you at the end of the day from the bender. Get a short radius bender as you may need it for close quarter work. I used a hand hacksaw thirty-plus years. It killed my shoulder. If you're going to do a lot of this get yourself a small metal cutting circular saw such as a Bosch or Makita. It really speeds up the job and saves your body. After a while the math gets easy so strive to do the numbers in your head. Avoid coming into the side of any switch boxes. The fittings extend into the box and will obstruct any large size dimmers or timers that you may want to install later, especially if you're going to have a 2 Gang installation. I try to just use top and bottom knockouts everywhere. Switch boxes should be 2 1/8 in deep instead of the standard inch and a half deep 1900 bracket box. They cost a little more but you have more room in the box for dimmer's, timers and more wires that are required with multi-location switches. Believe it or not you can put in 400 or 500 ft 1/2 inch thin wall a day once you're proficient at it. Try to make it look good even though it's going to get covered with drywall. Inspectors love to see good pipe work as it's a key indicator that you know what you're doing.
@@aaron74 My brother lives in Charlotte, NC and they do not use conduit. However all commercial industrial sites do. When building a home there, you can pay extra and have it done. If you do this also ask for home run electrical from the panel to the first outlet or light. Good luck….Jim PS….I live in a Chicago suburb.
What do u mean about the home run to 1st outlet or light. Like one circuit per pipe? That would be VERY expensive and take up a LOT of room in the walls.
@@christiancassini768 he means that it is quite common to take a conduit from the panel and route it to a given area and star out from there with another wiring method. Normally this approach would involve installation of multiple home runs in the same conduit (using dedicated neutrals and THHN/THWN you could install up to four 20 amp circuits in one conduit before de-rating the circuit).
Hello, I am a civil electrical and water construction repairman in Vietnam, I really admire your work. I have learned many things about electrical system construction techniques that you have instructed on this TH-cam channel. Wishing you good health and success
I know what you mean. I’ve been doing the same thing watching these electrician programs I’m 67 and retired for a good 10 years now. It’s amazing how it all leaves you. And how things have changed.
im an electrician and ive been watching youtube videos just to re learn what i forgot & you are amazing a guy that actually knows what he's doing and talking about
I went to a trade school for electrical work back in high-school. Went to college and got my degree in aerospace and Mechanical Engineering, and now I'm back to relearn what I forgot so I can start DIYing😂😂
Great video! Electrician here as well. Just a little 2 cents for anyone interested; since he was using 1/2 inch pipe, the take up (or deduction, the part you subtract when bending a 90 on the arrow) was 5". However, keep in mind, that these change from size to size. So if you're using 3/4" , the deduction is 6". If you're using 1", the deduction is 8". As he said in the video, it will be listed on the bender. Also, if you don't want to do the deduction, you can do something called "bending on center". Usually this is denoted on the bender by a star, and this allows you to just mark your exact measurement, and line the mark up with the star, as opposed to the arrow. Just a little less math involved is all. I work mainly commercial, but most of this information was very useful for anyone just starting off/doing a home project. This is stuff i only learned after being at many sites. I've never seen those bracket 1900s though, those are pretty nice!
Too much information for beginners, I'm an electrician myself, a lesson in how to bend conduit can go a long way. an offset of 15 degrees, you multiply the height of your offset by 3.8 an offset of 30 degrees, you multiply the height of your offset by 2 an offset of 45 degrees, you multiply the height of your offset by 1.4 example for an offset of 3 inches at 30 degrees you multiply 3'' X 2 so it will be 6 inches in both marks where the conduit will be bent at 30 degrees.
Jesus is the only way to healing, restoration and salvation to all souls. Please turn to him and he will change your life, depression into delight, soul heading from hell to heaven all because of what he did on the cross “Whoever calls upon the name of the Lord shall be saved” Romans 10:13
I'm an attorney and do minimal home repair/maintenance/construction. This video is so easy to understand and your method of showing/explaining the process each step of the way is top notch. Honestly, after 20 minutes of watching, I feel like I have some semblance of how to run some short conduit without giving up before the project was even attempted (obviously I'd likely get an electrician to handle much bigger projects). Great job and keep up the good work!
@@Logan-zi4vx I could have just as easily said "I work on computers all day as a computer programmer" and the end result would be the same- I don't normally do a lot of manual labor so that detail gave context but, as seems to be your prerogative, let us all see your fragile ego by focusing on one word rather than an entire paragraph of text!
@@BobClarizio Bob- I have been inspecting homes for 35 years. It was a great business up until the housing shortage. Buyers are foolishly buying homes with out pre inspections. In Massachusetts home inspectors are off by about 60%!
This is one of the best tutorials. So many show everyone going right and make it simple looking. He shows what can go wrong and how to fix that. Because I know I'm going to run into so many problems.
Great job. I retired from the trade after 50 years. Worked on everything from 115k on down to 24vdc. Had a great time too. Take care and best of everything.
I want to get into this. Im tired of doing nothing in my life. I wanna feel accomplished and do work that makes me feel good that I or we did this. On monday im going to a school for electrical work. Im gonna make a difference in my life. I want change..
i wish the best for you. as an electrician you will have respect, always have work, make a good living and its satisfying. also its not heavy exhausting dirty work. i'm 73 and do it part time these days just to keep busy and the money doesn't hurt :) p.s. trouble calls are fun too.
I’m retired now but for years (and still do) I have a 12volt Milwaukee powered hacksaw, it’s small and light. Hand hacksaws are disappearing. I’ve seen some of the new guys coming up using small battery bandsaws! And I always use 1900SPD (deep boxes) for switches and a given for GFI’s, for the small price difference they give you extra room and less of a headache. Also, when your done, step back and look at everything, better to change it now than when the walls are rocked.
so nice to see a pro admit he missed it...then showed how to fix it. that is my life, fixing my little mistakes. I have a job that I need to use EMT....looks easy enough..(LOL)
That was an excellent job in illustration of working with emt!!!!! I have been electrician for the past 51 years and electrical contractor for past 48 years. You impressed the hell out of me!!!! Why didnt you just simply run mc cable??? I prefer 420s, (they are tad smaller), the klein conduit reamer/screwdriver, tape measure, pencil, hacksaw (battery sawzall, or hacksaw), 1/2" bender and little kicker to do that job in emt if the inspector refuses to allow me to use mc cable which is alot faster than emt is!!!! Again a great job!!!!!!
That's pretty boss you called yourself out on that small mishap with the conduit... RESPECT!! Showing how to measure the bend properly is going to be very helpful...ty. I've just been eyeballing it, and believe me, alot of wasted time having to recut
Those shallow boxes really cramp my style. I always use deep 4s boxes, 2-1/8" deep. They cost a bit more but the extra room is golden for installing dimmers and GFCI's
Than you much. You provided the exact information I needed to run conduit between the studs. The time you took to make this video and share it will open doors to other successes in your life’s journey. Thanks again.
Jesus is the only way to healing, restoration and salvation to all souls. Please turn to him and he will change your life, depression into delight, soul heading from hell to heaven all because of what he did on the cross “Whoever calls upon the name of the Lord shall be saved” Romans 10:13
Yeah that was my only heartburn with an otherwise great video. The electrical code does spell out that there has to be at least 1 1/4" from the edge of the hole to the outside edge of the stud. (300-4 (a)(1) I believe) So per the Code in a standard 3 1/2" stud you can't go larger than a 1" hole without using a nail guard over the hole. BUT, nail guards are cheap and having the bigger holes makes it a lot easier to get the conduit in and out of the wall. I would do exactly what he did and just slap a nail guard over those 5 studs for like $3. Lol
I can't understand the need for emt. Wouldn't aluminum flex or bx pre wired metal flex work as well? I've never seen a steel screw or nail react with another steel product. They use regular nails with framing hardware that's zinc coated, for many decades. I'd have to talk with that inspector..
Great video. I like that you showed the hiccups also and what to learn from for someone that has never done it. I wouldn't worry about talking slower. It's a video so we can always pause, rewind, but slow deliveries take forever to get through. Wouldn't change a thing.
I am learning how to add an extra power outlet in my garage as I only have two on two walls but need one on the third. This video was helpful. thank you.
Just some useful info from an apprentice from Chicago. If you're gonna be doing a lot of pipe work you should get a 12v bandsaw to cut your pipes much faster, a 12v impact driver to drive your screws in your couplings/connectors faster, and put a Reaming Bit Holder on your impact, extremely useful bit it will save you time on reaming. If found that sometimes bending on the star is faster in certain situations like for a long piece of pipe (also you don't need to subtract if you're using the star) Nice video though!
In EMT land here near Chicago as well. Try the angled side of a cats paw to knock out, then use the straight end to remove it on the inside of the box. I accidentally found this trick and will never go back. Hope this helps another electrician.
Just use lineman pliers. Use them as a hammer. Use the to knock out knock outs. Use them to remove the knockout. Use them to make up the box. Why do you all make this so hard lol
Good tutorial. I know a lot of people use the conduit for the ground. But I always pull a green wire in as well. But then, I have a lot of industrial background. I retired 7 years ago after many years of working with 480 and below.
Just FYI code says EMT SHALL BE allowed to be used as ground. I have worked exclusively commercial and industrial. With today’s costs you are screwing yourself. I’d sooner put money into ground pigtails.
@@r777v Yes, I know the code allows it but have had far too many seriously bad ground situations because of EMT couplings loosening or corroding. I had a very deep maintenance budget too.
Me in Norway use hammer on box. Use conduit instead of ridged pipe for routing wire. Every country/state/city has its own codes. Im in tellacom field. Power plant building. Battery cabiets/converter shelves/reverse polarity -48vdc/rectifiers/tower work:antennas and radios for your mobile network. 5g updates. It is alot of work dealing with codes but codes are laid out and changed for safety. Id rather have him wiring my house than "viking with hammer!!!"
Hi to Norway the birthplace of my paternal great grandparents. FWIW, almost all wiring within a modern American home is done with NMC (Non Metallic Cable) usually known by the trade name Romex. There are various places where NMC isn't allowed or isn't the preferred approach. Wiring in most of those places is usually done with some kind of flex cable that has a flexible metal cover. It sounds like what is done in Norway is at least similar to what is done in the US with regard to this. The conduit used in this video is usually called EMT (Electrical Metal Tube). There are at least two reasons why EMT might be used in the US instead of flex cable. 1. It looks better. Where the conduit is going to be visible and somebody cares about how it looks EMT might be used instead of flexible cable. 2. It provides better protection for the wire. In California where I am from I don't believe EMT is required for use in garages. I also don't think it would have been required in the garage in this video, but it might be in some US jurisdictions. There are some places where rigid conduit is required. This is iron pipe with some kind of bright plating. I think that is required in hospitals.
I was taught to always pipe in 1 direction meaning, mount a box, run a pipe to wherever the next box is, then mount the next box. It avoids having to fight connectors all the time. It's odd to me seeing it done in the direction you're explaining
it just depends on the person. I do commercial electric, and i'll do it both ways, but i prefer to mount the boxes first, because then i can just take measurements from connector to connector. Sure, you could just measure to the center of the hole on the box, and land it there from the stud, but its more satisfying seeing if i can bend it perfectly to land in the next connector lol
Then the box instalation might be harder if the pipe is blocking you lining it up or off by a small margin in the hight of the box if the pipe is off a bit 😂
Interesting to see how a simple shed electrical is complicated af in some states. Im glad in our state (virginia) (Fairfax county) code allows for SIMpull romex, requires 1/4 of the time as this work and cheaper too. I will argue that it's almost as safe. Still a very good tutorial.
If you only have a few to do yeah…. I’m not going to waste the time if i am doing a pipe job . And for small pipe I carry 6 inch channelocks . Fewer tools you have to pouch for certain jobs improves efficiency . Never carry what you don't need too ….
great video! I was on a construction site for the first time as a welder, but I really enjoy doing electrical now also. really good explanation of what you're doing
Jesus is the only way to healing, restoration and salvation to all souls. Please turn to him and he will change your life, depression into delight, soul heading from hell to heaven all because of what he did on the cross “Whoever calls upon the name of the Lord shall be saved” Romans 10:13
Really good video! Not that many out there on conduit. I live near Chicago and everything here needs to be in metal piping and boxes....no romex. I have been doing it for years but your video still helped me learn some new tricks. Thanks!
When I'm taking my measurements I usually deduct 1/8" or 1/4" for where the pipe goes in the connector. Most connectors don't let the pipe go in exactly to the edge of the box.
I love the comments of people saying oh you cant do this oh why you do that. If you guys understand anything its that literally every state every country even counties in the same state allow and don’t allow certain ways of doing stuff. So get off his back. He made a good video for those not familiar with the trade. Btw im a licensed electrician so i can speak on the subject. I worked in 4 different states and i can tell you it was all different.
@@Username-ng8jy it's kinda funny how oldschool USA electrical is .. Metal boxes / metal conduit / bending conduit / big bulky switches .. 25 years ago or so we seen this in class bending pvc and metal conduit ..and wirenuts .. last 25 years i NEVER ever used wirenuts / pipe benders :-)
@@kittsdiy EMT is not the norm anywhere in NA for wood framed houses we just use NMD90 (loomex). Metallic tubing is required on surface level/exposed walls only and usually BX armored cable is used
@@krakenwoodfloorservicemcma5975 when you think about an electrician coming behind you to trouble shoot you will thank god for the pipe. i live in the northshore of chicago would not have it any other way. it might take a little more time, but so much easier to work with. and the fact that if to do have a problem much easier to trace and repair.
Whatever. Troubleshoot? Seriously? Chicago sucks, EMT sucks, residential work sucks as well. Your little league team that got caught cheating sucks the most.
Good Info, after watching and reading comments, want to add, 7/8" hole in Center of Stud works well as it insures you are more than 1 1/4" from face of stud, then you won't have to use a nail plate. You're strapping accomplished that. Wouldn't remove Insulation from Channellocks. Just put a Pipe Reamer on your Large Screwdriver, or use your Kleins. If running a Lot of Conduit, use a Set Screw Screwdriver, won't slip off, faster. I live in The Keys, Corrosion and Rust is a problem, Smurf(ENT) Is common. For a Shed not planning on any Expansion or Additions, would use MC or Romex. Can't pull additional circuits, switch legs or whatever. We have to Pull a Ground Wire in EVERY Conduit, even Metal. You could also show temporarily removing box to allow conduit to enter connector without fighting it. If you can get to this shed before siding and door frame installed, you may be able to use straight pipes, eleminate the 2 90's, less pipe less wire? In Comments, I see People mention a Band Saw for cutting Conduit, seems like putting in a Thumbtack with a Sledge Hammer. Found for me a Milwaukee Hackzall to work well. M12 is good enough, M18 is heavier, but more Capacity. If Accurate height is Important(Kitchen Counter and Bath)where tile will show the're off, I will use a Pencil. A Razor knife will leave a more precise mark. I would also subtract 5" and put 1 mark on pipe. The second mark may be used accidently.
I would have used a deeper box ( 2 1/8" deep ) just to give a little more room. Somebody told me years ago the 11/2" deep boxes that you used are called 1900 boxes because they are 19 cubic inches. I always pull a ground wire in every metal conduit. Saw way too many conduits that pulled apart that would cause most of ground if no ground wire was pulled. Great ideal not using sheet rock screws to secure box.Klein makes a great screwdriver with a teamed on it. Have several that are over 40 years old and never had to replace the steel blade. Installed miles of conduit in industrial sites but only a few times thru just 1 or 2 holes in stud or joist. In industrial sites the only time we used 1/2" EMT conduit was for alarms. 3/4" conduit is a lot stronger and provides some room for future circuits. Great ideal putting the notches in home made step stool to hold conduit.Would try to keep edge of hole 11/8" from front of stud like is required for Romex cable. Must seal all wires coming from a cold location to a warmer location to prevent condensation building uo.
@@mikeryan6277 my point was that his figures apply to ordinary studs which are listed as "2 X 4's". These studs are clearly 2X3's (which are slightly less than 2X3).
358.30(A) EMT shall be securely fastened within (3 ft) of each outlet box, junction box, device box, cabinet, conduit body, or other tubing termination. Since you didnt make any box offsets this is not to code correct?
I don’t see how box offsets are required to securely fasten the tubing. He did secure the EMT using nail straps at 19:07 and that was within 3 ft of the box.
First year Electrical apprentice here. i was told that they are called 1900 and 411 boxes because that was their original part number. Dont know if thats exactly true but would love some knowledge if anyone has it!
The box size that he is using is called 4-square bracket boxes, the ones he is using are shallow and there are also deep boxes. 411 refers to a box that is bigger in size and it also comes in a deeper version.
Anthony is correct. I work for a supplier. I was told by an electrician when i first started that a 1900 is a 4sq 1-1/2 deep box. Because they are 19cu Inches. Now most people call all 4 square boxes 1900’s but the most popular is the 4sq 2-1/8 deep. 411 boxes are 4-11/16 x 4-11/16
Very nicely done! You stay on topic and show how to do it without giving many examples of how it could be done in so many other places. You gave the "How To" for this application. Thank you! If I had to cut a large hole as you did, I would use a nail plate instead of mounting the conduit to the back of the hole as it could be damaged by a nail from outside. What are your thoughts?
The safety plates are required by code in any type of conduit or plumbing, he is just showing how to install EMT in a wood frame since the conduit is required to be at the center of the stud that is why is doing it like that, is just common sense...
Some cities and counties in the U.S. require rigid EMT (Electrical Metal Conduit) in situations where the wall cavities are exposed. Wiring needs to be protected from abrasions, or as some people do, hanging objects on the wire. In basements especially, I have seen everything from clothes hangers, to tools hanging from the Romex/Non-Metallic Cable (NMC) in the joist bays. This is very dangerous! So rigid conduit is used to protect against the wire being damaged and causing a short. Some jurisdictions allow flex conduit, but only in cases where the flex will be hidden behind a finished wall. Flex is more durable than Romex, but much easier to run than rigid conduit and then having to pull wire.
Awesome Video. 28 years old looking to become an electrician. After working for my father at our families anodizing business, and helping the electrician with odds an ends all the time, this seems like something I would thoroughly enjoy doing. Although I feel weird thinking of switching gears at 28 I also feel it might not be too late, and would significantly improve my mental health. Please share more videos like this. Best tutorial video I have seen so far. Thank You Sir.
Honestly, its not too late at all. A lot of young apprentices cant keep it together. If you show up on time and work hard, youre gold to any employer. Add to that places are hiring and paying competitively right now. Its one of the best times to get into a new trade
At 28, you're more mature than an 18 year old, and at 28, you still have many years ahead of you. Better to switch gears now than to wait until you're 48 or 58.
Dang dude this was awesome. Took me back to my early years in electrical. Wish you would’ve pulled wire hooked up some outlets/switches etc. but it was cool to watch so well done 👍🏼
Looks very neat. I was going to use metal conduit on my project, but since I needed to run nearly 60 feet of 8/4 plus ground, I cheated and used MC cable. :-)
Slotted screws...ugh...so glad I live in Canada. Americans should try Robertson square drive screws. They're much better because they hold onto the screwdriver and don't slip off!
Lol you suck square drives take Philips head and no decent modern products only have a flat head drive if they require any amount of force be applied. You think your smart but just don't understand manufacturing or construction.
Also TH-cam won't let me call you bad words for a Canadian but I very much dislike your arrogance. Anything you have in Canada is the same as USA, your like our little sister we look out for.
We use Robertson quite a bit in electrical actually. Not sure why he’s choosing to use a slotted driver on the couplings when they have Robertson inserts but to each his own. Milwaukee even makes a nice reaming bit with a bit holder for impact drivers. Could be saving himself some time.
I’m more in line with Dave Nag…..I’ve been an electrician for 40+ years….. in the old days speed was expected…. Now that I’m old I keep it light.. I’m slower than I used to be…. I bid more time for that … I have the best tools …. I now strive to do clean conduit work. The fellas will tear you apart if you don’t, ha ha! Electrical work is fun and I’ve been doing it so long it’s really been good to me. Good money, always in demand , hand arthritis slows me down but I have huge and powerful forearms which is a bonus , that’s from bending pipe, pulling wire and cutting copper. Keep it light guys, take care of yourself…. Your body will break down eventually and that’s a shame.
He said the safest it's only safe if there's a ground wire loose lock nuts loose set screws no ground screw at junction boxes. Like I said only safe if there's a ground wire
@@todshawcross2972 there should never and i mean never be a loose lock nut. this is one of the first thing an inspector looks for. thats the fastest way of starting a house fire. thats what they make channel locks for. it is our job as electricians to makes sure every locknut is tight. every pipe is strapped. you would get fired where i worked if you did sloppy workmanship. every pipe must be level. it must look like someone who knew what they were doing did the job. i remember doing a 40 meter service. and the inspector came in to inspect. he took one look at the job we had done. and said you passed. he saw the workmanship. and that is the most important thing. to make it look like you know what you are doing period.
@@jarrydee2799 not nyc , armored bx cable , in nassau / suffulk / westchester romex is allowed , olrder homes will have bx. conduit is commercial or surface on interior block or brick , exterior is in rigid pipe
@@user-jh1mq2ih2u wtf are you even talking about ? stfu noone is saying its a different concept , learn to read , someone said they think you need to use conduit in residential , and you dont. holy shit with the keyboard tough guy act.
Wow, that is so different. I see your plain-screw adaptor and coupling has a pinch screw on it unlike here is PVC without the pinch screw. Working with steel - ends are threaded for lockrings/locknuts, couplings, etc. while flexible conduit (Anaconda) has a gland to secure it.
Did a recording studio years ago, drilled from the outside on all walls long EMT was sent through, end of job, wood dolls were put in outside holes !!!
Nice work on showing the basics. Kind of left that interior corner as the elephant in the room though. Would be nice to see the Chicago approved method to getting from one wall to another. We used short radius benders for interior 90's in Colorado Springs. The AHJ would allow it as long as you didn't exceed one shorty per run.
In my experience, you typically go up into the ceiling and then back down to get from wall to wall most efficiently, but everyone has their preferred way of course.
When I rewire my house, planning on just going outside of the walls and through the floor with conduit. Too much hassle to take down or cut holes. Once a section is completed, just remove the prior from the breaker and leave what's inside the walls alone and dormant. I was taught to use sheet metal screws with electrical boxes per trade school in 1990's. Never had one rust out on me yet. Not even in damp locations.
Vertical studs count as support, ya don't need those stupid anchors, well, unless it's a local code, besides that who the heck runs conduit horizontally Through studs??? If that is local code, the ahj is a frigin moron
@@notnecessary7730 i do. its call saving on material. less wire less pipe less time. plus you can get away with a stub bend or as i would do it run straight from box to box. and with the cost of wire. why would you run everything up and down. whats the fastest way from point a to point b, a straight line. i was taught by a master. the short cuts. the object is to make it code but keep it simple. and that time is money.
Old RACO number 1900 box (4" sq metal box) I have been an electrician since the late 60's and i was taught that all 4'' box were 1900. As for the EMT many states and towns require it in wood construction.
Coming from the UK , this is a fast way to tube an installation. In the UK, tubing is very rare, mainly because of cost and because its all screwed ends. All couplers (joiners) are tapped all the way inside. Just a single screw and push fit would not pass code. All the screwed ends are made using a die or dying machine. All conduit has to be tested for continuity and as the USA ,used for grounding. When entering a fixed box, we use a brass male bush, that pushes through from the inside of the box, screwing straight into a coupler, which has already been screwed onto the tube. Thus reducing ingress of metal fittings into box.The bush is smooth on the rim, so no chaffing of the wires in the box. No. pig tails allowed ever and only ever single phase into any box. Remember we are 240v so two phases in a box is a potential of 415V! I've had a shock from that-not good! Wiring tube, is done using stranded single cable and if it wired correctly all outlets must never have more than 4 wires. Branching out to another box is seen as bad practice and would leave six wires at on outlet.
We use something similar to your threaded pipe for industrial or flammable explosive conditions.and we also have emt (thin wall conduit)compression type couplings with ferals we can use and have to in damp conditions they cost more and are more time consuming to use and most of us will also run another earth conductor for a more professional standard but agian it's more expensive and labor. And another miss Nomar all of our panels are actually 240volt systems as well. Residential homes have larger appliances like ranges/ovens clothes dryers and larger a/c units electric hot water heaters and even electric baseboard heaters are all 240 volts
@@wizard3z868 Thats interesting, resistance for uk conduit(used as a ground) at 1000v = 1ohm. thats to the farthest point. Today, with crap components shipped in from abroad, the necessity for grounding wire is more pertinent. In that the poor components no longer give sound grounding (earthing uk term) Most commercial jobs now are based on price and all sorts of corners are cut- relying on the close protection given by RCB AND RCBO's, so as to forego any liability. Gone are the days of good practice and pride in a job well done. I retired a few years ago but a friend of mine is still working(on and off) and tells me tales you would not believe. Often leaving jobs because the work is so poor and other times when he gets a red mist at people who are just plain stupid and leaves.During my time, I worked on many sites, that were considered dangerous, including nuclear and petroleum. Codes (Regulations) for these sites are a whole different ball game, with equipment second to none, it would take to long here. So have a good day.
As an Electrician I can tell you that EMT is easier to add circuits to later on. If I were going to redo my house I'd definitely spend the little bit of extra time and money to run EMT where ever I could.
@@Mike45-47Q It would be easier to just google it yourself if you are curious. It is public record and also common knowledge within the electrical industry. But I guess I can look up the code for you if you can't figure it out for yourself.
When I went through the union apprenticeship they always taught us to use pencils ✏️ to mark our pipe. This is a good habit to keep just in case your pipe is exposed. We use reamers (proper tool) and levels.
Never mind missing the part about bonding in the code. My question is why use all the 4 squares. Now you have to use a pile of plaster rings to finish the rough in. You will have wall full of steel. It is so hard to watch him use channel locks like that. Use a reamer because he's not checking the inner surface. That is an apprentice move. Hope you don't mind chasing short circuits.
I just built a 20x10 shed earlier this year and I want to put in some pipe rather then just run the romex. Never done it, but im gonna use this video for all the basics.
As an electrician, I think he should have spent more time on the fundamentals of using an EMT bender. There's so many things you can do with it. Learning to use the bender correctly can save not only time but money. Using the star vs the arrow when creating offsets, saddles. and other bends in addition to 90's are an electricians bread and butter. Additionally, the NEC (national Electrical Code) requires that vertical runs need to be strapped down every 3' and while the vertical run you showed was under 3' (barely) I would have still ran the pipe against the stud and put a strap half way up the run which would have required a box offset at the higher box.
Also "stovepiping" the horizontal. I mean If I saw this I would eye roll an laugh. If he was an employee of mine, he's doing it again the right way. This is first year apprentice work IMO. Reducing fittings is always the way to go, less spots for hang ups, looks nicer, you look like you know what you are doing, and costs less. On a video labeled "How to bend and install electrical conduit" this would be a "how not to" for my apprentices.
Vertical runs need to be strapped every 3'? Vertical runs are the same as any other run, 3 feet from every termination (box) and every 10 feet after that. A caddy CS812D would work perfectly there.
Got to tell you I piped hundreds of houses in the west, north west, south west suburbs of Chicago from 98 to the bubble burst 2008. All union work in DuPage, Kane, Will, McHenrey ,Kendell, counties. Never once did we have to brace the pipe coming out of a outlet or switch except at the top. Horizontal runs were nail strapped so pipe did not move and make noise. Len the inspector for Lombard was as tuff as they come and never once did he fail vert pipes. Now a horizontal pipe moving yes or forgotten set screw. He even taught code class for people wanting to be inspectors. I guess everything is local, are way is different then other places. Remember people the code is there but it's all what the town or jurisdiction wants.
Retired sparky here . Think it's called a 1900 box is because it has 19 cubic inches. Called 4 & 11/16" boxes 2100 boxes. Only used 2 & 2/8" boxes to give you more room for wires or deep devices. Great example is a duplex receptacle with two charging ports. Almost need a shoe horn & a rubber mallet to get it into box.
Ya, but the guy in the vid was saying for their local code outbuildings / sheds need to use conduit... maybe because of mice. I was just saying that I'm sure bx would be fine.
Nope, Chicago and surrounding cities and collar counties all require a pullable metallic system which means emt, imc or rigid steel conduit. You can also use flexible metal greenfield that you would install the wires into on the job. No prewired bx, mc or romex except prewired 6' fixture whips above drop ceilings. Maybe uf cable used underground in some towns. It is a Cadillac system that seems overkill to some, but is normal to us. It really doesn't take much longer to install once you get the hang of it. When I do a romex job in other parts of the country, I'm always looking over my shoulder because it feels like I'm cheating!
@@davenag957 I find this fascinating. So inside the house is fine to run romex but outbuildings need to be conduit? I'm in Ontario Canada. That code rule is different up here...
Do you need plastic bushings on the inside of the conduit connectors before you run the wire. I know I wired up a 100 amp service panel for a house trailer and the inspector failed it for no bushing on the end of the conduit but this was threaded conduit.
You got it done and everything looked fairly level, but I was having anxiety the whole time. Man you really need to get yourself a reamer. Dump all the tools that you don’t need too. I’ve seen apprentices work faster and more efficiently that that. I mean I guess what you showed didn’t look that bad, but man you gotta think things through before you start. I know I’m being a bit critical, but watching someone else run conduit (not “pipe” like you kept saying) is difficult to do. I hope everything looked good when you were finished.
I’d recommend using a portaband too. Quick and easy. You should have boots on as well. I’d ditch the marker too because it looks terrible. Especially when you were making two marks for your 90’s since you couldn’t subtract 5 in your head. Im glad you didn’t try to bend an offset, or even a saddle, because I may have lost my mind.
A few tips from a guy bending in Chicagoland since 1977. Loose the loaded toolpouch when running pipe. You don't need all that weight slowing you down. All you need are uninsulated 420 channelocks, a screwdriver with a Klein reamer attached, tape measure, pencil and 4 pocket nail apron. You want to be able to work light and fast and have everything you need right in that nail apron. Using a marker is bad for exposed work as it bleeds through paint and you're always having to take the cap off and on the marker which slows you down. Upgrade to a small battery impact for mounting boxes and tightening fittings. Wear sturdy shoes or your right foot will kill you at the end of the day from the bender. Get a short radius bender as you may need it for close quarter work. I used a hand hacksaw thirty-plus years. It killed my shoulder. If you're going to do a lot of this get yourself a small metal cutting circular saw such as a Bosch or Makita. It really speeds up the job and saves your body. After a while the math gets easy so strive to do the numbers in your head. Avoid coming into the side of any switch boxes. The fittings extend into the box and will obstruct any large size dimmers or timers that you may want to install later, especially if you're going to have a 2 Gang installation. I try to just use top and bottom knockouts everywhere. Switch boxes should be 2 1/8 in deep instead of the standard inch and a half deep 1900 bracket box. They cost a little more but you have more room in the box for dimmer's, timers and more wires that are required with multi-location switches. Believe it or not you can put in 400 or 500 ft 1/2 inch thin wall a day once you're proficient at it. Try to make it look good even though it's going to get covered with drywall. Inspectors love to see good pipe work as it's a key indicator that you know what you're doing.
I forgot the hammer!
You Chicago guys are great, I love to see EMT and wish the rest of the country followed your high standards
@@aaron74 My brother lives in Charlotte, NC and they do not use conduit. However all commercial industrial sites do. When building a home there, you can pay extra and have it done. If you do this also ask for home run electrical from the panel to the first outlet or light. Good luck….Jim
PS….I live in a Chicago suburb.
What do u mean about the home run to 1st outlet or light. Like one circuit per pipe? That would be VERY expensive and take up a LOT of room in the walls.
@@christiancassini768 he means that it is quite common to take a conduit from the panel and route it to a given area and star out from there with another wiring method. Normally this approach would involve installation of multiple home runs in the same conduit (using dedicated neutrals and THHN/THWN you could install up to four 20 amp circuits in one conduit before de-rating the circuit).
Hello, I am a civil electrical and water construction repairman in Vietnam, I really admire your work. I have learned many things about electrical system construction techniques that you have instructed on this TH-cam channel. Wishing you good health and success
I know what you mean. I’ve been doing the same thing watching these electrician programs I’m 67 and retired for a good 10 years now. It’s amazing how it all leaves you. And how things have changed.
im an electrician and ive been watching youtube videos just to re learn what i forgot & you are amazing a guy that actually knows what he's doing and talking about
Awesome to see an electrician not being extra critical for a change.
Same bro
I went to a trade school for electrical work back in high-school. Went to college and got my degree in aerospace and Mechanical Engineering, and now I'm back to relearn what I forgot so I can start DIYing😂😂
Great video! Electrician here as well. Just a little 2 cents for anyone interested; since he was using 1/2 inch pipe, the take up (or deduction, the part you subtract when bending a 90 on the arrow) was 5". However, keep in mind, that these change from size to size. So if you're using 3/4" , the deduction is 6". If you're using 1", the deduction is 8". As he said in the video, it will be listed on the bender. Also, if you don't want to do the deduction, you can do something called "bending on center". Usually this is denoted on the bender by a star, and this allows you to just mark your exact measurement, and line the mark up with the star, as opposed to the arrow. Just a little less math involved is all.
I work mainly commercial, but most of this information was very useful for anyone just starting off/doing a home project. This is stuff i only learned after being at many sites. I've never seen those bracket 1900s though, those are pretty nice!
I hated using the arrow. I used a scrap pipe and measured the 90 from the end of the shoe. My bendfield is exactly 6 inches.
Too much information for beginners, I'm an electrician myself, a lesson in how to bend conduit can go a long way.
an offset of 15 degrees, you multiply the height of your offset by 3.8
an offset of 30 degrees, you multiply the height of your offset by 2
an offset of 45 degrees, you multiply the height of your offset by 1.4
example for an offset of 3 inches at 30 degrees you multiply 3'' X 2
so it will be 6 inches in both marks where the conduit will be bent at 30 degrees.
Jesus is the only way to healing, restoration and salvation to all souls. Please turn to him and he will change your life, depression into delight, soul heading from hell to heaven all because of what he did on the cross
“Whoever calls upon the name of the Lord shall be saved” Romans 10:13
I'm an attorney and do minimal home repair/maintenance/construction. This video is so easy to understand and your method of showing/explaining the process each step of the way is top notch. Honestly, after 20 minutes of watching, I feel like I have some semblance of how to run some short conduit without giving up before the project was even attempted (obviously I'd likely get an electrician to handle much bigger projects). Great job and keep up the good work!
Your comment wouldn’t have made any sense if you left out that you’re an attorney, so I’m glad you let us know right away
@@Logan-zi4vx I could have just as easily said "I work on computers all day as a computer programmer" and the end result would be the same- I don't normally do a lot of manual labor so that detail gave context but, as seems to be your prerogative, let us all see your fragile ego by focusing on one word rather than an entire paragraph of text!
@@mrobviousj what part of what I said made me seem like I have a fragile ego?
@@djderekrock why
What does being an attorney have to do with your comment?
Bob- I am a carpenter, contractor and home inspector. I learned a lot of little trick from you
Nice job explaining.
Thanks! How long have you been an inspector?
@@BobClarizio
Bob-
I have been inspecting homes for 35 years. It was a great business up until the housing shortage. Buyers are foolishly buying homes with out pre inspections. In Massachusetts home inspectors are off by about 60%!
@rayjackson4547 60%?!? Wow that’s crazy
This is one of the best tutorials. So many show everyone going right and make it simple looking. He shows what can go wrong and how to fix that. Because I know I'm going to run into so many problems.
Great job. I retired from the trade after 50 years. Worked on everything from 115k on down to 24vdc. Had a great time too. Take care and best of everything.
No one ever tells good honest tradesmen thank you, where would we be without your service, thank you.
I want to get into this. Im tired of doing nothing in my life. I wanna feel accomplished and do work that makes me feel good that I or we did this. On monday im going to a school for electrical work. Im gonna make a difference in my life. I want change..
That’s so awesome to hear! I’m glad you’re going to finally make it happen! How long have you been thinking about it?
Good job buddy. Off the net and onto your feet.
i wish the best for you. as an electrician you will have respect, always have work, make a good living and its satisfying. also its not heavy exhausting dirty work. i'm 73 and do it part time these days just to keep busy and the money doesn't hurt :) p.s. trouble calls are fun too.
Hope you know that you're supposed to stay flush against the stud for your straps. You don't know shit
I’m retired now but for years (and still do) I have a 12volt Milwaukee powered hacksaw, it’s small and light. Hand hacksaws are disappearing. I’ve seen some of the new guys coming up using small battery bandsaws! And I always use 1900SPD (deep boxes) for switches and a given for GFI’s, for the small price difference they give you extra room and less of a headache. Also, when your done, step back and look at everything, better to change it now than when the walls are rocked.
Thank you for showing your mistakes and fixing them.
Even, the most skilled in the Trade make mistakes. I know; I have seen it.
❤🎉I agree. Great teacher.🎉❤
so nice to see a pro admit he missed it...then showed how to fix it. that is my life, fixing my little mistakes. I have a job that I need to use EMT....looks easy enough..(LOL)
Nice and concise. I, as an apprentice struggle with efficiency and its nice to see someone finally describe a good workflow.
Because you don’t have a plan
I wouldn't take to much from this guy tbh. He's got the ethics correct, but the execution is a bit lacking.
Thank you man, i knew conduit bending but you explained the whole process from bracket box to installing conduit. Youre a good guy.
You are not just a masterful technician, you are a masterful teacher. Thank you!
That was an excellent job in illustration of working with emt!!!!! I have been electrician for the past 51 years and electrical contractor for past 48 years. You impressed the hell out of me!!!! Why didnt you just simply run mc cable??? I prefer 420s, (they are tad smaller), the klein conduit reamer/screwdriver, tape measure, pencil, hacksaw (battery sawzall, or hacksaw), 1/2" bender and little kicker to do that job in emt if the inspector refuses to allow me to use mc cable which is alot faster than emt is!!!! Again a great job!!!!!!
The name 1900 Electrical Box comes from the part number given by the Bossert Company almost a hundred years ago.
That's pretty boss you called yourself out on that small mishap with the conduit... RESPECT!! Showing how to measure the bend properly is going to be very helpful...ty. I've just been eyeballing it, and believe me, alot of wasted time having to recut
Thanks 👍
Those shallow boxes really cramp my style. I always use deep 4s boxes, 2-1/8" deep. They cost a bit more but the extra room is golden for installing dimmers and GFCI's
The deeper the better in my opinion
Always go as deep as possible ....😂
Is there a max height a plug can be installed? What about a switch?
Than you much. You provided the exact information I needed to run conduit between the studs. The time you took to make this video and share it will open doors to other successes in your life’s journey. Thanks again.
Jesus is the only way to healing, restoration and salvation to all souls. Please turn to him and he will change your life, depression into delight, soul heading from hell to heaven all because of what he did on the cross
“Whoever calls upon the name of the Lord shall be saved” Romans 10:13
whoever built that shed, they did an excellent job looks like. they built that like a house, more than a shed which is awesome.
Great stuff! Just started my apprenticeship, and it helps to see all of this to study off of! Thanks man
This video makes me greatly appreciate the fact that Romex exists. We only have to pipe in commercial or exposed work
Failed inspection for hole size where I live. Best practice is to Stay under 1/3 the thickness
Yeah that was my only heartburn with an otherwise great video. The electrical code does spell out that there has to be at least 1 1/4" from the edge of the hole to the outside edge of the stud. (300-4 (a)(1) I believe) So per the Code in a standard 3 1/2" stud you can't go larger than a 1" hole without using a nail guard over the hole. BUT, nail guards are cheap and having the bigger holes makes it a lot easier to get the conduit in and out of the wall. I would do exactly what he did and just slap a nail guard over those 5 studs for like $3. Lol
I would make precision holes with a laser level.
I can't understand the need for emt. Wouldn't aluminum flex or bx pre wired metal flex work as well? I've never seen a steel screw or nail react with another steel product. They use regular nails with framing hardware that's zinc coated, for many decades. I'd have to talk with that inspector..
Great video. I like that you showed the hiccups also and what to learn from for someone that has never done it. I wouldn't worry about talking slower. It's a video so we can always pause, rewind, but slow deliveries take forever to get through. Wouldn't change a thing.
Thanks 🙏
TV2
I am learning how to add an extra power outlet in my garage as I only have two on two walls but need one on the third. This video was helpful. thank you.
Full respect, I don’t do it much with the company I work for now, but I love running conduit, so satisfying to look at when you’re done.
Just some useful info from an apprentice from Chicago. If you're gonna be doing a lot of pipe work you should get a 12v bandsaw to cut your pipes much faster, a 12v impact driver to drive your screws in your couplings/connectors faster, and put a Reaming Bit Holder on your impact, extremely useful bit it will save you time on reaming. If found that sometimes bending on the star is faster in certain situations like for a long piece of pipe (also you don't need to subtract if you're using the star)
Nice video though!
In EMT land here near Chicago as well. Try the angled side of a cats paw to knock out, then use the straight end to remove it on the inside of the box. I accidentally found this trick and will never go back. Hope this helps another electrician.
What’s a cats paw? Thanks…Jim
@@jimpie231 Carpentry tool. Google will pull one up pretty quickly for you.
So …. You carry a cats paw just to pop knockouts ? Seems to be a lot of weight for minimum function .
Just use lineman pliers. Use them as a hammer. Use the to knock out knock outs. Use them to remove the knockout. Use them to make up the box.
Why do you all make this so hard lol
he helped me through high school ! Thanks mark! Me and the fam love ya!
Good tutorial. I know a lot of people use the conduit for the ground. But I always pull a green wire in as well.
But then, I have a lot of industrial background. I retired 7 years ago after many years of working with 480 and below.
I agree. Its legal, but never rely on the conduit to carry the ground. Pull a ground.
I don't know why anyone would use the conduit for the ground, even though it's code. Sure, wire isn't cheap, but it's the better way to do it.
Just FYI code says EMT SHALL BE allowed to be used as ground. I have worked exclusively commercial and industrial. With today’s costs you are screwing yourself. I’d sooner put money into ground pigtails.
@@r777v Yes, I know the code allows it but have had far too many seriously bad ground situations because of EMT couplings loosening or corroding. I had a very deep maintenance budget too.
great video, Bob! Lots of tips and no fluff.
Thanks!
Seems like a lot of work compared to how we do it here in Norway. We use hammer-on boxes and pre-fed flexible conduit; much easier.
Same in Sweden. This shit looks so dumb😂. I saw another American electrician having real cable inside the wall which also seemed very dumb...
A hella lot easier lol
Me in Norway use hammer on box. Use conduit instead of ridged pipe for routing wire. Every country/state/city has its own codes. Im in tellacom field. Power plant building. Battery cabiets/converter shelves/reverse polarity -48vdc/rectifiers/tower work:antennas and radios for your mobile network. 5g updates. It is alot of work dealing with codes but codes are laid out and changed for safety. Id rather have him wiring my house than "viking with hammer!!!"
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Hi to Norway the birthplace of my paternal great grandparents. FWIW, almost all wiring within a modern American home is done with NMC (Non Metallic Cable) usually known by the trade name Romex. There are various places where NMC isn't allowed or isn't the preferred approach. Wiring in most of those places is usually done with some kind of flex cable that has a flexible metal cover.
It sounds like what is done in Norway is at least similar to what is done in the US with regard to this. The conduit used in this video is usually called EMT (Electrical Metal Tube). There are at least two reasons why EMT might be used in the US instead of flex cable. 1. It looks better. Where the conduit is going to be visible and somebody cares about how it looks EMT might be used instead of flexible cable. 2. It provides better protection for the wire. In California where I am from I don't believe EMT is required for use in garages. I also don't think it would have been required in the garage in this video, but it might be in some US jurisdictions.
There are some places where rigid conduit is required. This is iron pipe with some kind of bright plating. I think that is required in hospitals.
I was taught to always pipe in 1 direction meaning, mount a box, run a pipe to wherever the next box is, then mount the next box. It avoids having to fight connectors all the time. It's odd to me seeing it done in the direction you're explaining
it just depends on the person. I do commercial electric, and i'll do it both ways, but i prefer to mount the boxes first, because then i can just take measurements from connector to connector. Sure, you could just measure to the center of the hole on the box, and land it there from the stud, but its more satisfying seeing if i can bend it perfectly to land in the next connector lol
Correct 😂
Then the box instalation might be harder if the pipe is blocking you lining it up or off by a small margin in the hight of the box if the pipe is off a bit 😂
Interesting to see how a simple shed electrical is complicated af in some states. Im glad in our state (virginia) (Fairfax county) code allows for SIMpull romex, requires 1/4 of the time as this work and cheaper too. I will argue that it's almost as safe. Still a very good tutorial.
Yeah that's the way to go ..moved from Chicago hard pipe to Missouri romex .. will never go back ...😂😂😂
How about a reaming tool
Channels work fine if you don't have a reamer. So do linesman, dikes, etc
If you only have a few to do yeah…. I’m not going to waste the time if i am doing a pipe job . And for small pipe I carry 6 inch channelocks . Fewer tools you have to pouch for certain jobs improves efficiency . Never carry what you don't need too ….
Learn something every day. I never thought about the galvanic corrosion that would occur with screws
great video! I was on a construction site for the first time as a welder, but I really enjoy doing electrical now also. really good explanation of what you're doing
Jesus is the only way to healing, restoration and salvation to all souls. Please turn to him and he will change your life, depression into delight, soul heading from hell to heaven all because of what he did on the cross
“Whoever calls upon the name of the Lord shall be saved” Romans 10:13
Really good video! Not that many out there on conduit. I live near Chicago and everything here needs to be in metal piping and boxes....no romex. I have been doing it for years but your video still helped me learn some new tricks. Thanks!
When I'm taking my measurements I usually deduct 1/8" or 1/4" for where the pipe goes in the connector. Most connectors don't let the pipe go in exactly to the edge of the box.
I love the comments of people saying oh you cant do this oh why you do that. If you guys understand anything its that literally every state every country even counties in the same state allow and don’t allow certain ways of doing stuff. So get off his back. He made a good video for those not familiar with the trade. Btw im a licensed electrician so i can speak on the subject. I worked in 4 different states and i can tell you it was all different.
In Australia we have not any sort of this😂we just run the wires through the studs and bob is your uncle
Same here in Belgium .. wire or flexi conduit :-) This is crazy because no one will ever see it .. sheetrock over it .
We do majority of that in the states. Honestly this is pretty extra. But it’s nice. He won’t have to worry about electrical fore
@@Username-ng8jy it's kinda funny how oldschool USA electrical is .. Metal boxes / metal conduit / bending conduit / big bulky switches .. 25 years ago or so we seen this in class bending pvc and metal conduit ..and wirenuts .. last 25 years i NEVER ever used wirenuts / pipe benders :-)
@@kittsdiy Just curious. What do you use? What exposed raceways in commercial buildings?
@@kittsdiy EMT is not the norm anywhere in NA for wood framed houses we just use NMD90 (loomex). Metallic tubing is required on surface level/exposed walls only and usually BX armored cable is used
Hi I am new comer licenced Electrician i try to practice via your video thanks you very much
That's wonderful to hear! I'm glad my videos are helping you in your practice. Keep up the great work!
Tough town to require emt compared to a Mc cable … or a uf cable ….
I agree. It’s absolutely retarded.
@@krakenwoodfloorservicemcma5975 when you think about an electrician coming behind you to trouble shoot you will thank god for the pipe. i live in the northshore of chicago would not have it any other way. it might take a little more time, but so much easier to work with. and the fact that if to do have a problem much easier to trace and repair.
Whatever. Troubleshoot? Seriously? Chicago sucks, EMT sucks, residential work sucks as well. Your little league team that got caught cheating sucks the most.
@@krakenwoodfloorservicemcma5975 Thank god for NM :) Literally fuck running Metallic and EMT in Resi.
I love bending pipe, but if you are going to do it, at least make it all surface mount.
Great video! What about a video of the electrical tool bag
Great video, Thanks. It's too bad all contractors and laborers don't have the professional attitude and dedication that this guy has.
Good Info, after watching and reading comments, want to add, 7/8" hole in Center of Stud works well as it insures you are more than 1 1/4" from face of stud, then you won't have to use a nail plate. You're strapping accomplished that. Wouldn't remove Insulation from Channellocks. Just put a Pipe Reamer on your Large Screwdriver, or use your Kleins.
If running a Lot of Conduit, use a Set Screw Screwdriver, won't slip off, faster. I live in The Keys, Corrosion and Rust is a problem, Smurf(ENT) Is common. For a Shed not planning on any Expansion or Additions, would use MC or Romex. Can't pull additional circuits, switch legs or whatever.
We have to Pull a Ground Wire in EVERY Conduit, even Metal.
You could also show temporarily removing box to allow conduit to enter connector without fighting it.
If you can get to this shed before siding and door frame installed, you may be able to use straight pipes, eleminate the 2 90's, less pipe less wire?
In Comments, I see People mention a Band Saw for cutting Conduit, seems like putting in a Thumbtack with a Sledge Hammer.
Found for me a Milwaukee Hackzall to work well. M12 is good enough, M18 is heavier, but more Capacity.
If Accurate height is Important(Kitchen Counter and Bath)where tile will show the're off, I will use a Pencil. A Razor knife will leave a more precise mark.
I would also subtract 5" and put 1 mark on pipe. The second mark may be used accidently.
I would have used a deeper box ( 2 1/8" deep ) just to give a little more room. Somebody told me years ago the 11/2" deep boxes that you used are called 1900 boxes because they are 19 cubic inches. I always pull a ground wire in every metal conduit. Saw way too many conduits that pulled apart that would cause most of ground if no ground wire was pulled. Great ideal not using sheet rock screws to secure box.Klein makes a great screwdriver with a teamed on it. Have several that are over 40 years old and never had to replace the steel blade. Installed miles of conduit in industrial sites but only a few times thru just 1 or 2 holes in stud or joist. In industrial sites the only time we used 1/2" EMT conduit was for alarms. 3/4" conduit is a lot stronger and provides some room for future circuits. Great ideal putting the notches in home made step stool to hold conduit.Would try to keep edge of hole 11/8" from front of stud like is required for Romex cable. Must seal all wires coming from a cold location to a warmer location to prevent condensation building uo.
I read that 1900 was the part number given by the Bossert Company almost 100 years ago.
It's only 2x3 studs you know....
@@edwardsmith4353 thought they were 1 1/2 X 3 1/2
@@mikeryan6277 my point was that his figures apply to ordinary studs which are listed as "2 X 4's". These studs are clearly 2X3's (which are slightly less than 2X3).
@@danlux4954 it was also the UL listing number from back then and still is UL part# 1900
Thanks Brother! I feel empowered to go get it done!
Its always interesting to see a non electrician teach electrical or electric as he calls it.
I know, right? I like how he didn’t even check his 90° by adding a level on it 😂
@@TooKool70 factz. He said when it looks straight its straight.
@@OriginalMerk1904 that 90 definitely wasn't straight
Thank you all of you...I learn something. Gratefully yours
Thank you Chicago, for turning a 1 hour job into a 4 hour job. 👍
Hey that's the least amount of trouble chi town has caused..😂
Thanks for the refresher. Its been 30 years since I bent pipe. I needed that. Need to make more on conduit bending
358.30(A) EMT shall be securely fastened
within (3 ft) of each outlet box, junction box, device
box, cabinet, conduit body, or other tubing termination. Since you didnt make any box offsets this is not to code correct?
I don’t see how box offsets are required to securely fasten the tubing. He did secure the EMT using nail straps at 19:07 and that was within 3 ft of the box.
@@dsingh4512 yep i agree. using those pipe straps would be an approved method of strapping as long as he's within 3 ft
There are straps you can use without box offsets. I only use box offsets for exposed work, never in walls
@@thomasmarable6818 interesting! Thanks for that tip.
@@dsingh4512 should the short conduit be strapped? it is more than 3ft long? he did say vertical distance is 33 1/4'' plus 9 1/2'' equal 42 3/4''.
Great jobs and sharing valuable information of how to set up electrical metallic tubing and how to measure and bending ! Thank you so much..
First year Electrical apprentice here. i was told that they are called 1900 and 411 boxes because that was their original part number. Dont know if thats exactly true but would love some knowledge if anyone has it!
The box size that he is using is called 4-square bracket boxes, the ones he is using are shallow and there are also deep boxes. 411 refers to a box that is bigger in size and it also comes in a deeper version.
19900 box 19 cubic inches, non deep version
411 box because of its dimensions 4 and 11 16th
Anthony is correct. I work for a supplier. I was told by an electrician when i first started that a 1900 is a 4sq 1-1/2 deep box. Because they are 19cu Inches. Now most people call all 4 square boxes 1900’s but the most popular is the 4sq 2-1/8 deep.
411 boxes are 4-11/16 x 4-11/16
Concentrate on getting your qualifications before commenting on electrical work pal. Good luck with your apprenticeship
Thanks Bob for sharing your knowledge with us!!
Very nicely done! You stay on topic and show how to do it without giving many examples of how it could be done in so many other places. You gave the "How To" for this application. Thank you!
If I had to cut a large hole as you did, I would use a nail plate instead of mounting the conduit to the back of the hole as it could be damaged by a nail from outside. What are your thoughts?
The safety plates are required by code in any type of conduit or plumbing, he is just showing how to install EMT in a wood frame since the conduit is required to be at the center of the stud that is why is doing it like that, is just common sense...
Good video. I have to get ready. My garage is next.
I'm building a step stool just like that.
Absolutely awesome!
Like the saw hook, maybe add a couple other things like holes for screwdrivers and such
Yeah! Those are great ideas!
Those holes feel too big for a 2X4 stud. Isn't 30 percent of the width max code?
Use what you got when you got them.
Some cities and counties in the U.S. require rigid EMT (Electrical Metal Conduit) in situations where the wall cavities are exposed. Wiring needs to be protected from abrasions, or as some people do, hanging objects on the wire.
In basements especially, I have seen everything from clothes hangers, to tools hanging from the Romex/Non-Metallic Cable (NMC) in the joist bays. This is very dangerous! So rigid conduit is used to protect against the wire being damaged and causing a short.
Some jurisdictions allow flex conduit, but only in cases where the flex will be hidden behind a finished wall. Flex is more durable than Romex, but much easier to run than rigid conduit and then having to pull wire.
Rigid and emt are both different types of conduit
Regular emt not rigid you handyman you. And flex is limited at 6 feet you silly silly man
@@offgridsystems1166 😂😂
Wow thank you very much! Just starting out lvl 1 construction electrician so exciting
Right to the point. Exactly what I wanted to see.
Awesome Video. 28 years old looking to become an electrician. After working for my father at our families anodizing business, and helping the electrician with odds an ends all the time, this seems like something I would thoroughly enjoy doing. Although I feel weird thinking of switching gears at 28 I also feel it might not be too late, and would significantly improve my mental health. Please share more videos like this. Best tutorial video I have seen so far. Thank You Sir.
Honestly, its not too late at all.
A lot of young apprentices cant keep it together. If you show up on time and work hard, youre gold to any employer. Add to that places are hiring and paying competitively right now. Its one of the best times to get into a new trade
At 28, you're more mature than an 18 year old, and at 28, you still have many years ahead of you. Better to switch gears now than to wait until you're 48 or 58.
Left the automotive trade at age 31 after 12 years experience- got a pay raise to do it as a traveling commercial electrician apprentice.
Top notch video, Bob! Awesome editing, awesome information and awesome delivery! Keep em comin! 👍🏻
Thanks!
Dang dude this was awesome. Took me back to my early years in electrical. Wish you would’ve pulled wire hooked up some outlets/switches etc. but it was cool to watch so well done 👍🏼
I would have liked to see him go up into the rafters for the lights and around the corners to the boxes on the other walls.. 😂😂
Looks very neat. I was going to use metal conduit on my project, but since I needed to run nearly 60 feet of 8/4 plus ground, I cheated and used MC cable. :-)
Bruh 💯 About to do a project where I may need to run conduit. This came in clutch
Thanks fro the great tutorial
Slotted screws...ugh...so glad I live in Canada. Americans should try Robertson square drive screws. They're much better because they hold onto the screwdriver and don't slip off!
Lol you suck square drives take Philips head and no decent modern products only have a flat head drive if they require any amount of force be applied. You think your smart but just don't understand manufacturing or construction.
Also TH-cam won't let me call you bad words for a Canadian but I very much dislike your arrogance. Anything you have in Canada is the same as USA, your like our little sister we look out for.
Slotted should have been fazed out they are 🗑
We use Robertson quite a bit in electrical actually. Not sure why he’s choosing to use a slotted driver on the couplings when they have Robertson inserts but to each his own. Milwaukee even makes a nice reaming bit with a bit holder for impact drivers. Could be saving himself some time.
I’m more in line with Dave Nag…..I’ve been an electrician for 40+ years….. in the old days speed was expected…. Now that I’m old I keep it light.. I’m slower than I used to be….
I bid more time for that … I have the best tools …. I now strive to do clean conduit work. The fellas will tear you apart if you don’t, ha ha! Electrical work is fun and I’ve been doing it so long it’s really been good to me. Good money, always in demand , hand arthritis slows me down but I have huge and powerful forearms which is a bonus , that’s from bending pipe, pulling wire and cutting copper. Keep it light guys, take care of yourself…. Your body will break down eventually and that’s a shame.
Conduit far and above the best way to wire a house!
Definitely the safest
Only if you run a ground wire
@@todshawcross2972 you do not need a ground in metal conduit lol. only on some circuits.
He said the safest it's only safe if there's a ground wire loose lock nuts loose set screws no ground screw at junction boxes. Like I said only safe if there's a ground wire
@@todshawcross2972 there should never and i mean never be a loose lock nut. this is one of the first thing an inspector looks for. thats the fastest way of starting a house fire. thats what they make channel locks for. it is our job as electricians to makes sure every locknut is tight. every pipe is strapped. you would get fired where i worked if you did sloppy workmanship. every pipe must be level. it must look like someone who knew what they were doing did the job. i remember doing a 40 meter service. and the inspector came in to inspect. he took one look at the job we had done. and said you passed. he saw the workmanship. and that is the most important thing. to make it look like you know what you are doing period.
Wow it's so easy!! I'm going to buy everything you have wire install all the pipe!!!
putting conduit inside wood framing is nuts, it belongs in commercial and industrial applications.
In chicago you have to use conduit in residential. I think new york to. It's because of the rodents eating the wires. Would be such a pain in the ass
@@jarrydee2799 not nyc , armored bx cable , in nassau / suffulk / westchester romex is allowed , olrder homes will have bx. conduit is commercial or surface on interior block or brick , exterior is in rigid pipe
When you think you know it all and you don’t .. stay in your lane
@@rogerdodger3209 armored box cable is still the same concept as using conduit except no pipe benders needed…
@@user-jh1mq2ih2u wtf are you even talking about ? stfu noone is saying its a different concept , learn to read , someone said they think you need to use conduit in residential , and you dont. holy shit with the keyboard tough guy act.
Wow, that is so different. I see your plain-screw adaptor and coupling has a pinch screw on it unlike here is PVC without the pinch screw. Working with steel - ends are threaded for lockrings/locknuts, couplings, etc. while flexible conduit (Anaconda) has a gland to secure it.
It's a 4 square box in michigan, not 1900
4 square bracket box here i SoCal. i dont think ive seen the number 1900 on them either.
@@robertoparra9969 I think it's an old 1970 RACO number yes I'm old.
It's actually a 41116 box not 1900 look it up
Did a recording studio years ago, drilled from the outside on all walls long EMT was sent through, end of job, wood dolls were put in outside holes !!!
Nice work on showing the basics. Kind of left that interior corner as the elephant in the room though. Would be nice to see the Chicago approved method to getting from one wall to another.
We used short radius benders for interior 90's in Colorado Springs. The AHJ would allow it as long as you didn't exceed one shorty per run.
I can only imagine the monstrosity of 1/2" emt through a 2 stud corner. ouch.
In my experience, you typically go up into the ceiling and then back down to get from wall to wall most efficiently, but everyone has their preferred way of course.
@@jamesfox8930 sorry that I didn't see this earlier, but yeah, it wasn't pretty.
When I rewire my house, planning on just going outside of the walls and through the floor with conduit. Too much hassle to take down or cut holes. Once a section is completed, just remove the prior from the breaker and leave what's inside the walls alone and dormant. I was taught to use sheet metal screws with electrical boxes per trade school in 1990's. Never had one rust out on me yet. Not even in damp locations.
Use a level or two if on unlevel surfaces, to make sure your 90 is a 90. Emt needs to be supported 36" from terminaton points/the box
At least every 10ft there after and no more than 360degree of bands between junction boxes.
@@vlad1889 That's because it would be a bitch pulling wire through 360 bends without a pull box.
Vertical studs count as support, ya don't need those stupid anchors, well, unless it's a local code, besides that who the heck runs conduit horizontally Through studs??? If that is local code, the ahj is a frigin moron
If you used a level on work that was behind drywall on my job you wouldn't last long. Ain't no one got time for that.
@@notnecessary7730 i do. its call saving on material. less wire less pipe less time. plus you can get away with a stub bend or as i would do it run straight from box to box. and with the cost of wire. why would you run everything up and down. whats the fastest way from point a to point b, a straight line. i was taught by a master. the short cuts. the object is to make it code but keep it simple. and that time is money.
Never had to run conduit but getting ready to do my garage.
Old RACO number 1900 box (4" sq metal box) I have been an electrician since the late 60's and i was taught that all 4'' box were 1900. As for the EMT many states and towns require it in wood construction.
Coming from the UK , this is a fast way to tube an installation. In the UK, tubing is very rare, mainly because of cost and because its all screwed ends. All couplers (joiners) are tapped all the way inside. Just a single screw and push fit would not pass code. All the screwed ends are made using a die or dying machine. All conduit has to be tested for continuity and as the USA ,used for grounding. When entering a fixed box, we use a brass male bush, that pushes through from the inside of the box, screwing straight into a coupler, which has already been screwed onto the tube. Thus reducing ingress of metal fittings into box.The bush is smooth on the rim, so no chaffing of the wires in the box. No. pig tails allowed ever and only ever single phase into any box. Remember we are 240v so two phases in a box is a potential of 415V! I've had a shock from that-not good! Wiring tube, is done using stranded single cable and if it wired correctly all outlets must never have more than 4 wires. Branching out to another box is seen as bad practice and would leave six wires at on outlet.
We use something similar to your threaded pipe for industrial or flammable explosive conditions.and we also have emt (thin wall conduit)compression type couplings with ferals we can use and have to in damp conditions they cost more and are more time consuming to use and most of us will also run another earth conductor for a more professional standard but agian it's more expensive and labor.
And another miss Nomar all of our panels are actually 240volt systems as well. Residential homes have larger appliances like ranges/ovens clothes dryers and larger a/c units electric hot water heaters and even electric baseboard heaters are all 240 volts
@@wizard3z868 Thats interesting, resistance for uk conduit(used as a ground) at 1000v = 1ohm. thats to the farthest point. Today, with crap components shipped in from abroad, the necessity for grounding wire is more pertinent. In that the poor components no longer give sound grounding (earthing uk term) Most commercial jobs now are based on price and all sorts of corners are cut- relying on the close protection given by RCB AND RCBO's, so as to forego any liability. Gone are the days of good practice and pride in a job well done. I retired a few years ago but a friend of mine is still working(on and off) and tells me tales you would not believe. Often leaving jobs because the work is so poor and other times when he gets a red mist at people who are just plain stupid and leaves.During my time, I worked on many sites, that were considered dangerous, including nuclear and petroleum. Codes (Regulations) for these sites are a whole different ball game, with equipment second to none, it would take to long here. So have a good day.
Only commercial buildings are required EMT and metal box inside the wall in California I thro.
Not true at all. Chicago requires conduit for all houses..
As an Electrician I can tell you that EMT is easier to add circuits to later on. If I were going to redo my house I'd definitely spend the little bit of extra time and money to run EMT where ever I could.
@@brianharmeson3144 Show me the code.
@@Mike45-47Q It would be easier to just google it yourself if you are curious. It is public record and also common knowledge within the electrical industry. But I guess I can look up the code for you if you can't figure it out for yourself.
@@Mike45-47Q chrome-extension://gphandlahdpffmccakmbngmbjnjiiahp/www.chicago.gov/content/dam/city/depts/bldgs/general/Self_Cert_Program/2019/07-ELECTRICAL.pdf
Anyone know what purple bit holder he is rocking is?
When I went through the union apprenticeship they always taught us to use pencils ✏️ to mark our pipe. This is a good habit to keep just in case your pipe is exposed. We use reamers (proper tool) and levels.
Agreed.sharpie on exposed pipe looks ugly and unprofessional.
IT DEPENDS ON THE JOB....THATS ALL...I USE A SHARPIE FOR PIPE, WATER OFF MARKERS FOR PAINT(DELICATES).
Sharpie is fine ..
Exposed pipe already looks ugly ...😂😂
why do you not use a bandsaw or a reamer ?
So crazy some places require pipe inside houses. That would take forever to rough in a house. In Canada we run Loomex
Never mind missing the part about bonding in the code. My question is why use all the 4 squares. Now you have to use a pile of plaster rings to finish the rough in. You will have wall full of steel. It is so hard to watch him use channel locks like that. Use a reamer because he's not checking the inner surface. That is an apprentice move. Hope you don't mind chasing short circuits.
I just built a 20x10 shed earlier this year and I want to put in some pipe rather then just run the romex. Never done it, but im gonna use this video for all the basics.
As an electrician, I think he should have spent more time on the fundamentals of using an EMT bender. There's so many things you can do with it. Learning to use the bender correctly can save not only time but money. Using the star vs the arrow when creating offsets, saddles. and other bends in addition to 90's are an electricians bread and butter. Additionally, the NEC (national Electrical Code) requires that vertical runs need to be strapped down every 3' and while the vertical run you showed was under 3' (barely) I would have still ran the pipe against the stud and put a strap half way up the run which would have required a box offset at the higher box.
Also "stovepiping" the horizontal. I mean If I saw this I would eye roll an laugh. If he was an employee of mine, he's doing it again the right way. This is first year apprentice work IMO. Reducing fittings is always the way to go, less spots for hang ups, looks nicer, you look like you know what you are doing, and costs less. On a video labeled "How to bend and install electrical conduit" this would be a "how not to" for my apprentices.
Vertical runs need to be strapped every 3'? Vertical runs are the same as any other run, 3 feet from every termination (box) and every 10 feet after that. A caddy CS812D would work perfectly there.
@@Dynamice1337 Well it's clear I was referring to "from box to box" but assholes gotta be assholes I guess!
Got to tell you I piped hundreds of houses in the west, north west, south west suburbs of Chicago from 98 to the bubble burst 2008. All union work in DuPage, Kane, Will, McHenrey ,Kendell, counties. Never once did we have to brace the pipe coming out of a outlet or switch except at the top. Horizontal runs were nail strapped so pipe did not move and make noise. Len the inspector for Lombard was as tuff as they come and never once did he fail vert pipes. Now a horizontal pipe moving yes or forgotten set screw. He even taught code class for people wanting to be inspectors. I guess everything is local, are way is different then other places. Remember people the code is there but it's all what the town or jurisdiction wants.
sorry not 98 but 1988
Where in the code does it say you need to use certain screws to Mount the box to the stud ? Never heard that before . Interesting
Don't know about you guys but this wouldn't fly where I'm from. The pipe going up has no straps.
It wouldn't go any place. The jnstall isn't up to code. The NEC is "national" electrical code. Unless this isn't in America.
@@OriginalMerk1904it's Ontario Canada.
@@nevinkuser9892 i stand corrected.
Retired sparky here . Think it's called a 1900 box is because it has 19 cubic inches. Called 4 & 11/16" boxes 2100 boxes. Only used 2 & 2/8" boxes to give you more room for wires or deep devices. Great example is a duplex receptacle with two charging ports. Almost need a shoe horn & a rubber mallet to get it into box.
I'm sure the local code would have been fine with BX cable. Conduit in a wood structure is overkill...
nmb/romex way better
Ya, but the guy in the vid was saying for their local code outbuildings / sheds need to use conduit... maybe because of mice. I was just saying that I'm sure bx would be fine.
@@michaeldouglasmason oh damn thats annoying
Nope, Chicago and surrounding cities and collar counties all require a pullable metallic system which means emt, imc or rigid steel conduit. You can also use flexible metal greenfield that you would install the wires into on the job. No prewired bx, mc or romex except prewired 6' fixture whips above drop ceilings. Maybe uf cable used underground in some towns. It is a Cadillac system that seems overkill to some, but is normal to us. It really doesn't take much longer to install once you get the hang of it. When I do a romex job in other parts of the country, I'm always looking over my shoulder because it feels like I'm cheating!
@@davenag957 I find this fascinating. So inside the house is fine to run romex but outbuildings need to be conduit? I'm in Ontario Canada. That code rule is different up here...
Do you need plastic bushings on the inside of the conduit connectors before you run the wire. I know I wired up a 100 amp service panel for a house trailer and the inspector failed it for no bushing on the end of the conduit but this was threaded conduit.
“I used an 1-1/2” drill cause it’s all I had in the truck.”
On a 2x4?
Cringed when they showed how big the hole was on that stud. Framing fail
@@jimmymedellin4557 1 1/4 we use them pretty much standard
What’s the code requirement for pipe clips. How far from an electrical junction box does a pipe clip need to be used? Are studs considered pipe clips?
You got it done and everything looked fairly level, but I was having anxiety the whole time. Man you really need to get yourself a reamer. Dump all the tools that you don’t need too. I’ve seen apprentices work faster and more efficiently that that. I mean I guess what you showed didn’t look that bad, but man you gotta think things through before you start. I know I’m being a bit critical, but watching someone else run conduit (not “pipe” like you kept saying) is difficult to do. I hope everything looked good when you were finished.
I’d recommend using a portaband too. Quick and easy. You should have boots on as well. I’d ditch the marker too because it looks terrible. Especially when you were making two marks for your 90’s since you couldn’t subtract 5 in your head. Im glad you didn’t try to bend an offset, or even a saddle, because I may have lost my mind.