Good details. I am in the middle of my project jon boat with a V-hull, and my friend recommended I get some brackets, but I didn't want the extra cost, but since you explained it the way you did, I'm certainly going to get them. I'm glad that zinc coated ones will work as I didn't want to get aluminum. Thanks for the tips.
Glad you did. Should definitely help stiffen things up long term. Zinc saves that $ for sure but I'd hit it w some oil based paint to protect them. Thanks for the feedback man!
I think I would used L aluminum. and rivets lighter and just as strong if framed correctly like he says. maybe cheaper. either-way. very nice boat and one of the best builds on youtube. Great work
Thanks for the great tips and detailed explanation. The battery box would better protect the battery if hold-down straps are installed instead of the metal bar and about 1-1/2” thick closed-cell foam is installed on the sides and bottom between the battery and the wood. Jon boats are known to vibrate strongly when planed out on choppy water especially at the front of the boat. Protective foam would cushion the vibration and likely extend the life of the battery.
@@j.walker3498 I used to do a ton of glass work when I built show cars. Not something I plan on carrying over to boats. No to 2 part foam but it is seaming to be a common trend. Not sure if its to push product by the youtubers using it or if it actually has major advantages. My thing is for a jon boat I like the fact at any given moment i can remove my foam subfloor. Once you do pour foam, its there. What happens if there are air voids, does it fill drain channels, where does the water go to drain? I understand bass boats use it from factory (or sprayed in) but jon boats are designed entirely different. Not sure how i feel on it yet, may be worth looking into. If it can stiffen up my 12 ft beer can im building it may be worth it. Just not sure id recommend it to the masses as a one size fits all modification.
Well I'm just a po log hauler it will have to be cheap lol! I just acquired a 14 foot all aluminum jon boat hope to get it nice as the ones you do. I'm on a budget though I'm sure you know bout that but thanks for your channel I have some great Ideas thanks again cuz!
how did you do the framing for the middle bench and the back where it covers up the gas tank, and batteries? Also the side panels. any help would be appreciated
Once again a fantastic video. Your attention to detail is fantastic. I like the idea of the angle brackets. Did you glue the butt joints along with using the brackets?
I did put a small amount of glue, figured why not. Not exactly sure if it makes any long term difference with the brackets and screws but I figured why not.
I have a 14ft boat and currently in the mod process. I have learned a lot watching your videos and it's helping me avoid costly mistakes, thank you! I do have a question about the deck. You didn't extend it past the middle bench. What was your thought process behind leaving that gap? I'm brainstorming my mod and seriously can't decide if I want to extend my deck past the middle bench or leave that gap in between? Would love to hear your opinion about that. I know these tiny boats can get tippy, which is why I would think I want that gap for extra places to stand closer to the floor for stability.
Hey man, if you haven't already, check out my "Amazing DIY Jon Boat Restoration " video. In the first couple mins of that video I go into great detail the goals of the build which includes why I left the middle bench.
Sorry is anyone else already asked or you mentioned in the video… Did you apply fiberglass resin on the frame before paining with oil based paint? I know you apply resin to the decking and hatches but what about the frame? Did you remove the frame from the boat to seal/paint then reinstall or did you paint/seal while in the boat? Lastly how many coats of oil based paint did you apply?
Your video was a huge help in getting some of my ideas together I would love to be able to bend your ear a little more if at all possible I’m starting a job boat build for my 11yr old nephew who recently lost his dad and wants to upgrade their boat they had together
When I start fishing this one, find a decent boat for a decent price. I'm hoping by this summer but then again I missed out on a few good boats and prices this past winter, boats I've looked at recently are out of my range. Unless it ends up being a build for someone else.
Really important question. I’m in the middle of my boat build and almost everything in it so far and to go forward is inspired by your build. I’m onto the decking and want to know if you made a template or did you just wing it because i am unsure how to get the taper of boat transferred onto the wood decking
I put the plywood over the top of the boat and traced the contour onto the plywood. I then cut. I now had the exact shape of top of boat although too big to go in over framing. I then placed a speed square on framing leveling up from the exact point I wanted my decking to end , i then butted a tape to the squared up point and measured over to the top outer edge of boat. This gave me the exact measurement I needed to now take off of the part I originally traced and cut. I took that measurement and applied it to the part, redrawing new lines essentially smaller than the shape I traced and cut by whatever the measurement I squared up from was. Then I cut again, trimming off the correct measurement. If you measure carefully and your reveals are a the same around your framing to top of hull, you can do it this way. Because it's more advanced and probably the way a carpenter or tradesman would do it, most people just tape cardboard together and make a template. Either way can get it done.
Anthony Jones I would use CAD. Cardboard assisted design. Lol cut tape and tweek until it looks good. Remember to take off about 1/8th inch around the edges for the carpet to fold around. That way you get a tight clean fit.
Anthony, I have enjoyed viewing your build. My son and I are working on ours at the moment. I have a question about your deck. Can you give me the width measurement of your front deck where it stops at the rib. I am trying to work out my design now. Thanks, keep up the great work.
It ended up being 48 inches in length and under 48 at the widest point. I'm not near the boat right now but long story short, it was built out of a half sheet of plywood (48x48)
About how much weight do you think has been added to the boat? It will be interesting to see if it effects how far the water line is after everything is said and done and how the boat handles. It looks very symmetrical and with the battery up front and in back, the weight looks pretty evenly distributed. Good luck and tight lines.
Honestly have no idea. I do know this, I can lift the boat up by hand on trailer and move it around my garage and driveway. That's w one battery though and the batteries are 63 pds each. I tried hard to go strong and light but with any of these builds you are going to add weight regardless.
Anthony, I know you are a busy man but I need your help when you get a moment concerning your woodworking skills. On the front deck, I know the starting point is the first 1x2 across the rib near the front seat. I also know that everything else will be built off of that point and it has to be as true and square as possible. My question is the rib has compound angles. The angle of the rib toward the rear, and the angle of the side of the boat. Can you explain to me how you transposed your angles to the 1x2 to get a snug fit against the side of boat where the lag bolts go in. I have tried every trick I know of and I cannot get angle correct. Thanks brother!
I took a sample piece of 1x2 and started cutting angles and slowly dropped the angles down on my compound miter saw until I found the proper angle. I then used that angle on the final piece and cut it a little long, test fitted, trimmed, refitted, trimmed, until it was tight and perfect. On my new build, I have actually implemented an angle finder tool which I used to find the angle of the transom to build a new one. Hope this helps.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats Thanks brother. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Awesome build and I am looking forward to implementing some of your ideas in on my build. My son and I are spending time together on ours. It does not get any better than that. God speed my friend!. My the way. If anyone in south Ga is looking for the Cedar you cannot get it at any HD in Valdosta, Moultrie, or Macon. You can, however, order it and have it shipped for pick up at the Cordele store. I live in Fitzgerald. Just in case anyone ask you.
You can also purchase an angle finder. They're relatively cheap and very simple to use. Just place your angle finder on the inside angle of your boat wall and the dial will spin to tell you the exact degree. Then set your mitre saw to that degree and cut your framing. Should fit pretty snug
@anthonyjones What type of screw did you use for the U-brackets into the ribs. I'm completing the same setup and the sheet metal screws I used are loose. I used #8 3/4 sheet metal screws. I'm stuck at this point. Any Help...??
Man it's been so long and I've used so many different screws I couldn't tell you. I drill pilot holes a suze smaller than screw, start with drill, then carefully hand tighten. If you use self tapping, you could strip, drill pilot hole too large, it will be loose, over tighten, same thing. Not sure what happened, id go a size bigger on thread if they are loose or just rivet.
2x4s are actually 1.5×3. That's why I made it a point to show you the variance in the rough cut western red being different from your standard 2x4 prime pine.
@@Deerslyr81 2x4 = 1.5 x 3.5 Actual 2x4's haven't been widely used since pre WWII. Stuff like cedar or cypress which is usually somewhat rough hewn still regularly comes in 1.75 x 3.75.
How are the hatches when you stand on them? I feel like mine are a little bit flimsy with the 11/32 plywood. Might have to double them up like you did or put 2x's under them somewhere. I just don't trust standing on them. I'm only 180 pounds, but still I don't want to fall through my hatches!
In places where framing goes over original deck, I countersink sheet metal screws through framing and plug w dowels. Other places, L brackets attach framing to original deck, and for uprights they are tied into ribs with 2x2 framing brackets. All hardware and attachments shown in my part 1 home depot/lowes video
I was a carpenter for many years so the main reason I used wood was because it was within my comfort zone. I can build anything with wood and I've worked w it a lot. That said here's a couple legit reasons why: 1) wood is more cost effective than aluminum 2) if done right, wood can actually come out lighter than aluminum. In my case I used a wood species called western red Cedar which when ripped into 2x2s is lighter per linear foot than 1/8 angled aluminum. Western red is significantly lighter than yellow pine due to density of grain. Aluminum can be lighter than than western red if you use 1/16 angled aluminum but it's a lot harder to frame with due to the flex so most people use 1/8. 3) Western red can last a lifetime. it's used in home construction for exterior parts due to its natural characteristics that make it rot resistant. Add paint or resin to it and it can last the life of your boat.
Thanks, Anthony Jones. I’ve loved watching your videos. I was watching them at 3am. Your way of explaining things and showing AND explaining fits my learning style. So your videos have been much more helpful than others. Keep it up!
@@jonseidl Awesome to hear! Thanks for the support. More videos to come, been on vacation half of July, hopefully do the last few videos on the TopGunJonBoat in August and start the next boat soon after.
Honestly lost count a long time ago. Plus I've went through different stages,changed things, and been working on it for a few yrs off and on just taking my time. I'd say under 2 grand for everything minus boat cost Mainly just got a ton of man hrs and detail in it.
Am I going crazy? You said you used 3" screws to frame that casting deck... you have 1 1/2" 2x2's for framing.. You'd blow right through that wood with 3" screws... did you mean to say 1 1/2" screws through the "L" brackets and Into the 2x2's? I can see where you'd be able to use longer screws but definitely not thru those 2x2's.... Just trying to figure out what you did here as I'm in the middle of framing my casting deck also.
2x2s connected w 3 inch star bit exterior grade screws. They dont blow through because I use those screws at the T points of framing therefore going through the side of one 2x2 and through an endpoint of another. Once connected and secured by this method, I come back w the angled brackets on all L joints (or 45 degree) and secure those w 3/4 stainless screws. Hope this helps cuz
@Anthony Jones , thanks a ton for the quick reply! I appreciate your clarification.. this will definitely help me out a lot. You've easily got the best build I've found on TH-cam.. your carpentry skills are top notch!. Cheers from ON, Canada
14 ft Grumman. Photos of the build process and some of the original boat on my Instagram @adubjones. I started my channel and video documentation after I was more than half way through and people were asking about videos. I will do full process on build #2
It's actually lighter per linear ft.. It's give or take, pros and cons to both. Currently building my new boat all aluminum. Redwood still has a place in my heart but a lot more work than aluminum. I like the aluminum for quicker turn around, easier install, lasts forever.. I like the Redwood for budget projects, lighter weight.
You just measure man. I measure from the start of the deck up to the middle of the framing where a hatch will go, draw line side to side, then repeat. Basically I get all my horizontal lines drawn where hatches should break over framing, then I can measure across but because it's an odd shape, you must go from center. Honestly, I'd be able to show you in under 5 mins, maybe a video for the future...
They are exterior grade, even says for use with treated wood on the packaging. They are equevalant to a deck screw. Doesn't matter much though when they are countersunk, capped with dowels, and painted over.
No. I'd recommend using a two part epoxy Bottomcoat designed specifically for aluminum boat bottoms. I'm using Super Slick 2000 product from Fasco. Always recommend using a product actually developed for its specific use.
Im just curious. Why would you go to such trouble, when there are some good buys on used bass boats that just need a little TLC. Seems that if your going to spend money to have a bass boat, why not get a real bass boat and just fix it up?
Few reasons...1) Real bass boats not allowed in the electric only reservoirs we have here in Georgia. 2) The whole point of TINY BOAT NATION is to modify small jon boats and outfit them to be fishing machines. Not rebuild bass boats. 3) I built this boat (one of the most modified jon boats out there) for 2 grand, couldn't ever do that with a used bass boat. 4) These boats, just like bass boats and kayaks, all have their place. Why I like them is you can fish them like a kayak but have all the perks of a bass boat. 5) Lastly, it's my passion, not trouble. If your asking "why?" I'd encourage you to watch more of my videos, or even my reveal video of this boat to hear the story behind it.
Yeah I know. 2x4s are actually 1.5×3 inches. The rough cut red Cedar I used are actual measurements of 2x4 inches which made it trickier to rip into 2x2s which are actually 1.5x1.5 inches is what I was trying to explain
The person buying this boat in the future is getting quality workmanship. Great job man.
Thanks man! Do not think this boat will ever be for sale though.
Good details. I am in the middle of my project jon boat with a V-hull, and my friend recommended I get some brackets, but I didn't want the extra cost, but since you explained it the way you did, I'm certainly going to get them. I'm glad that zinc coated ones will work as I didn't want to get aluminum. Thanks for the tips.
Glad you did. Should definitely help stiffen things up long term. Zinc saves that $ for sure but I'd hit it w some oil based paint to protect them. Thanks for the feedback man!
You've done a heck of a great job on this build. I've got a serious case of boat envy.
Thanks man, no need to envy...build you one!
Great job on this man. Very impressed and appreciate the attention to details.
Thanks so much man!
I've looked at all your video, and I have to say you are the King. They need to rename the boat Jones Boat
I think I would used L aluminum. and rivets lighter and just as strong if framed correctly like he says. maybe cheaper. either-way. very nice boat and one of the best builds on youtube. Great work
Would love to see a video of best practices for how the framing gets fastened to the boat. Nobody seems to cover that part
In future hopefully although I do try my best to explain in the video
Thanks for the great tips and detailed explanation. The battery box would better protect the battery if hold-down straps are installed instead of the metal bar and about 1-1/2” thick closed-cell foam is installed on the sides and bottom between the battery and the wood. Jon boats are known to vibrate strongly when planed out on choppy water especially at the front of the boat. Protective foam would cushion the vibration and likely extend the life of the battery.
Hell yeah man. You get my sub. Hard to find videos with guys that go into detail. Kick ass work!
Devils in the details, looks damn nice
finally! im old carpenter. this would make me comfortable to stand on. prefer 1/2",but well done sir.
Thanks! I recommend half inch personally but it was my mission to shed weight. In the end I realized it may not have been worth the headache.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats wondering if fiberglass cloth or mat would help. found channel today. have you tried two part fill foam to fill voids?
@@j.walker3498 I used to do a ton of glass work when I built show cars. Not something I plan on carrying over to boats. No to 2 part foam but it is seaming to be a common trend. Not sure if its to push product by the youtubers using it or if it actually has major advantages. My thing is for a jon boat I like the fact at any given moment i can remove my foam subfloor. Once you do pour foam, its there. What happens if there are air voids, does it fill drain channels, where does the water go to drain? I understand bass boats use it from factory (or sprayed in) but jon boats are designed entirely different. Not sure how i feel on it yet, may be worth looking into. If it can stiffen up my 12 ft beer can im building it may be worth it. Just not sure id recommend it to the masses as a one size fits all modification.
Can't wait to do this to mine
Going to do something similar for my pedestal mount I think. Drives me crazy how bass boats have that bump in the floor
Glad I found you Anthony now come to Avera Ga and help me with mine lol
I'd rather sell you a boat! lol
Well I'm just a po log hauler it will have to be cheap lol! I just acquired a 14 foot all aluminum jon boat hope to get it nice as the ones you do. I'm on a budget though I'm sure you know bout that but thanks for your channel I have some great Ideas thanks again cuz!
@@marklikeinthebible Haha all good man. Enjoy your boat and GO DAWGS
Looks good and sturdy love to c more of this build and what size boat did u start with for this build can't wait to c more videos keep it up
how did you do the framing for the middle bench and the back where it covers up the gas tank, and batteries? Also the side panels. any help would be appreciated
Can you do the wood framing and put the aluminum sheets on top?
Great videos man
My first boat 27 years ago a alumancraft 14ft i buit decks on it long time ago now i have a 1994 alumaweld exspress solid aluminum boat no wood lol
Id love to have an express side aluminum! Very nice
Once again a fantastic video. Your attention to detail is fantastic. I like the idea of the angle brackets. Did you glue the butt joints along with using the brackets?
I did put a small amount of glue, figured why not. Not exactly sure if it makes any long term difference with the brackets and screws but I figured why not.
I have a 14ft boat and currently in the mod process. I have learned a lot watching your videos and it's helping me avoid costly mistakes, thank you! I do have a question about the deck. You didn't extend it past the middle bench. What was your thought process behind leaving that gap? I'm brainstorming my mod and seriously can't decide if I want to extend my deck past the middle bench or leave that gap in between? Would love to hear your opinion about that. I know these tiny boats can get tippy, which is why I would think I want that gap for extra places to stand closer to the floor for stability.
Hey man, if you haven't already, check out my "Amazing DIY Jon Boat Restoration " video. In the first couple mins of that video I go into great detail the goals of the build which includes why I left the middle bench.
Sorry is anyone else already asked or you mentioned in the video…
Did you apply fiberglass resin on the frame before paining with oil based paint? I know you apply resin to the decking and hatches but what about the frame? Did you remove the frame from the boat to seal/paint then reinstall or did you paint/seal while in the boat? Lastly how many coats of oil based paint did you apply?
Ps thanks for all the videos, very helpful information
I’m trying to find the video where you said the grain of sandpaper to sand the framing with. I believe you said 50?
It doesn't really matter to be honest. Somewhere between 50 and 180 should be fine
Your video was a huge help in getting some of my ideas together
I would love to be able to bend your ear a little more if at all possible
I’m starting a job boat build for my 11yr old nephew who recently lost his dad and wants to upgrade their boat they had together
Thanks man, glad to hear its helped. Best way to communicate with me is on Instagram through direct messaging.
So did you remove the top metal sheet in order to create the cavity the light sits in? Like I'm it's entirety of just a portion of it?
When is the next new build?? Where r u in ga. I’m also here and may have a build for ya.
When I start fishing this one, find a decent boat for a decent price. I'm hoping by this summer but then again I missed out on a few good boats and prices this past winter, boats I've looked at recently are out of my range. Unless it ends up being a build for someone else.
Really important question. I’m in the middle of my boat build and almost everything in it so far and to go forward is inspired by your build. I’m onto the decking and want to know if you made a template or did you just wing it because i am unsure how to get the taper of boat transferred onto the wood decking
I put the plywood over the top of the boat and traced the contour onto the plywood. I then cut. I now had the exact shape of top of boat although too big to go in over framing. I then placed a speed square on framing leveling up from the exact point I wanted my decking to end , i then butted a tape to the squared up point and measured over to the top outer edge of boat. This gave me the exact measurement I needed to now take off of the part I originally traced and cut. I took that measurement and applied it to the part, redrawing new lines essentially smaller than the shape I traced and cut by whatever the measurement I squared up from was. Then I cut again, trimming off the correct measurement. If you measure carefully and your reveals are a the same around your framing to top of hull, you can do it this way. Because it's more advanced and probably the way a carpenter or tradesman would do it, most people just tape cardboard together and make a template. Either way can get it done.
Anthony Jones I would use CAD. Cardboard assisted design. Lol cut tape and tweek until it looks good. Remember to take off about 1/8th inch around the edges for the carpet to fold around. That way you get a tight clean fit.
Quick question how do the compartment hatches
attach to the frame
I see you used angle brackets are they stronger than using pocket screw ? Just wondering for when I do my deck.
Nice work bro
Thanks man!!
Anthony, I have enjoyed viewing your build. My son and I are working on ours at the moment. I have a question about your deck. Can you give me the width measurement of your front deck where it stops at the rib. I am trying to work out my design now. Thanks, keep up the great work.
It ended up being 48 inches in length and under 48 at the widest point. I'm not near the boat right now but long story short, it was built out of a half sheet of plywood (48x48)
About how much weight do you think has been added to the boat? It will be interesting to see if it effects how far the water line is after everything is said and done and how the boat handles. It looks very symmetrical and with the battery up front and in back, the weight looks pretty evenly distributed. Good luck and tight lines.
Honestly have no idea. I do know this, I can lift the boat up by hand on trailer and move it around my garage and driveway. That's w one battery though and the batteries are 63 pds each. I tried hard to go strong and light but with any of these builds you are going to add weight regardless.
Anthony, I know you are a busy man but I need your help when you get a moment concerning your woodworking skills. On the front deck, I know the starting point is the first 1x2 across the rib near the front seat. I also know that everything else will be built off of that point and it has to be as true and square as possible. My question is the rib has compound angles. The angle of the rib toward the rear, and the angle of the side of the boat. Can you explain to me how you transposed your angles to the 1x2 to get a snug fit against the side of boat where the lag bolts go in. I have tried every trick I know of and I cannot get angle correct. Thanks brother!
I took a sample piece of 1x2 and started cutting angles and slowly dropped the angles down on my compound miter saw until I found the proper angle. I then used that angle on the final piece and cut it a little long, test fitted, trimmed, refitted, trimmed, until it was tight and perfect. On my new build, I have actually implemented an angle finder tool which I used to find the angle of the transom to build a new one. Hope this helps.
@@AnthonyJonesBrigadeBoats Thanks brother. I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Awesome build and I am looking forward to implementing some of your ideas in on my build. My son and I are spending time together on ours. It does not get any better than that. God speed my friend!. My the way. If anyone in south Ga is looking for the Cedar you cannot get it at any HD in Valdosta, Moultrie, or Macon. You can, however, order it and have it shipped for pick up at the Cordele store. I live in Fitzgerald. Just in case anyone ask you.
You can also purchase an angle finder. They're relatively cheap and very simple to use. Just place your angle finder on the inside angle of your boat wall and the dial will spin to tell you the exact degree. Then set your mitre saw to that degree and cut your framing. Should fit pretty snug
Cedar is also pretty rot resistant.
Do you know how much space you left on the edges for wiring? And did you mount the front part of the framing onto the boat or just the sides?
Good stuff man. What size screws did you you to attach the L brackets?
3/4 Stainless, #6
@anthonyjones What type of screw did you use for the U-brackets into the ribs. I'm completing the same setup and the sheet metal screws I used are loose. I used #8 3/4 sheet metal screws. I'm stuck at this point. Any Help...??
Man it's been so long and I've used so many different screws I couldn't tell you. I drill pilot holes a suze smaller than screw, start with drill, then carefully hand tighten. If you use self tapping, you could strip, drill pilot hole too large, it will be loose, over tighten, same thing. Not sure what happened, id go a size bigger on thread if they are loose or just rivet.
2:17 that’s what a 2x4 measures. They haven’t been 2x4 in forever. Nice ass build though.
2x4s are actually 1.5×3. That's why I made it a point to show you the variance in the rough cut western red being different from your standard 2x4 prime pine.
True true that’s right. Still a nice ass build!!!
@@Deerslyr81 Thank you sir!
@@Deerslyr81 2x4 = 1.5 x 3.5
Actual 2x4's haven't been widely used since pre WWII. Stuff like cedar or cypress which is usually somewhat rough hewn still regularly comes in 1.75 x 3.75.
How are the hatches when you stand on them? I feel like mine are a little bit flimsy with the 11/32 plywood. Might have to double them up like you did or put 2x's under them somewhere. I just don't trust standing on them. I'm only 180 pounds, but still I don't want to fall through my hatches!
Adding a double (or "runners") is mandatory in my opinion. 11/32 on it's own would flex way too much.
Nice build man ! What size is the boat ?
Length- 14 ft
Bottom Width- 38 inches
Beam Width- 55 inches
What about a live well and a self draining tank
How do you attach the frame to the boat or does it just sit tight in the boat.
In places where framing goes over original deck, I countersink sheet metal screws through framing and plug w dowels. Other places, L brackets attach framing to original deck, and for uprights they are tied into ribs with 2x2 framing brackets. All hardware and attachments shown in my part 1 home depot/lowes video
What made you go with wood framing instead of aluminum?
I was a carpenter for many years so the main reason I used wood was because it was within my comfort zone. I can build anything with wood and I've worked w it a lot.
That said here's a couple legit reasons why:
1) wood is more cost effective than aluminum
2) if done right, wood can actually come out lighter than aluminum. In my case I used a wood species called western red Cedar which when ripped into 2x2s is lighter per linear foot than 1/8 angled aluminum. Western red is significantly lighter than yellow pine due to density of grain. Aluminum can be lighter than than western red if you use 1/16 angled aluminum but it's a lot harder to frame with due to the flex so most people use 1/8.
3) Western red can last a lifetime. it's used in home construction for exterior parts due to its natural characteristics that make it rot resistant. Add paint or resin to it and it can last the life of your boat.
Thanks, Anthony Jones. I’ve loved watching your videos. I was watching them at 3am. Your way of explaining things and showing AND explaining fits my learning style. So your videos have been much more helpful than others. Keep it up!
@@jonseidl Awesome to hear! Thanks for the support. More videos to come, been on vacation half of July, hopefully do the last few videos on the TopGunJonBoat in August and start the next boat soon after.
Wow how long did it take to complete the casting deck
what was the cost of materials for this build? nice build bro
Honestly lost count a long time ago. Plus I've went through different stages,changed things, and been working on it for a few yrs off and on just taking my time. I'd say under 2 grand for everything minus boat cost Mainly just got a ton of man hrs and detail in it.
nice
Am I going crazy? You said you used 3" screws to frame that casting deck... you have 1 1/2" 2x2's for framing..
You'd blow right through that wood with 3" screws... did you mean to say
1 1/2" screws through the "L" brackets and Into the 2x2's? I can see where you'd be able to use longer screws but definitely not thru those 2x2's....
Just trying to figure out what you did here as I'm in the middle of framing my casting deck also.
2x2s connected w 3 inch star bit exterior grade screws. They dont blow through because I use those screws at the T points of framing therefore going through the side of one 2x2 and through an endpoint of another. Once connected and secured by this method, I come back w the angled brackets on all L joints (or 45 degree) and secure those w 3/4 stainless screws.
Hope this helps cuz
@Anthony Jones , thanks a ton for the quick reply! I appreciate your clarification.. this will definitely help me out a lot. You've easily got the best build I've found on TH-cam.. your carpentry skills are top notch!. Cheers from ON, Canada
@@CountrifiedCanadian No problem man and thanks for the kind words. Thanks for tuning in from across the pond!
what boat did you start with? Are there any videos of the original boat before all this began?
14 ft Grumman. Photos of the build process and some of the original boat on my Instagram @adubjones. I started my channel and video documentation after I was more than half way through and people were asking about videos. I will do full process on build #2
Redwood over aluminium ? Now you have experience ?
It's actually lighter per linear ft.. It's give or take, pros and cons to both. Currently building my new boat all aluminum. Redwood still has a place in my heart but a lot more work than aluminum. I like the aluminum for quicker turn around, easier install, lasts forever.. I like the Redwood for budget projects, lighter weight.
What’s hard for me to understand is how you know where to cut the deck for you hatches
You just measure man. I measure from the start of the deck up to the middle of the framing where a hatch will go, draw line side to side, then repeat. Basically I get all my horizontal lines drawn where hatches should break over framing, then I can measure across but because it's an odd shape, you must go from center. Honestly, I'd be able to show you in under 5 mins, maybe a video for the future...
Mantap sir
Say it last many years what rotts one leaving it outside with leaves water in them
Very true which is why I love keeping it in my garage
Sick framing for that deck man...those aren't stainless screws though!
They are exterior grade, even says for use with treated wood on the packaging. They are equevalant to a deck screw. Doesn't matter much though when they are countersunk, capped with dowels, and painted over.
Would u recommend flex sealing a bottom of a old john boat
No. I'd recommend using a two part epoxy Bottomcoat designed specifically for aluminum boat bottoms. I'm using Super Slick 2000 product from Fasco. Always recommend using a product actually developed for its specific use.
Im just curious. Why would you go to such trouble, when there are some good buys on used bass boats that just need a little TLC. Seems that if your going to spend money to have a bass boat, why not get a real bass boat and just fix it up?
Few reasons...1) Real bass boats not allowed in the electric only reservoirs we have here in Georgia. 2) The whole point of TINY BOAT NATION is to modify small jon boats and outfit them to be fishing machines. Not rebuild bass boats. 3) I built this boat (one of the most modified jon boats out there) for 2 grand, couldn't ever do that with a used bass boat. 4) These boats, just like bass boats and kayaks, all have their place. Why I like them is you can fish them like a kayak but have all the perks of a bass boat. 5) Lastly, it's my passion, not trouble. If your asking "why?" I'd encourage you to watch more of my videos, or even my reveal video of this boat to hear the story behind it.
Redwood is crazy expensive
Hey Anthony all 2x4s aren’t actually 2x4s
Yeah I know. 2x4s are actually 1.5×3 inches. The rough cut red Cedar I used are actual measurements of 2x4 inches which made it trickier to rip into 2x2s which are actually 1.5x1.5 inches is what I was trying to explain
Screwed glued and tattooed.
How much would you charge me to build me this exact setup??
For this exact setup, it would be a high number. I will be building some more cost effective set ups in the near future though. Stay tuned.