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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ค. 2017
- I decided to call this "Diff School" because when I was having my rear axle upgraded at World Tour Off Road in Annapolis, MD, Paul Warren spent a lot of time sharing his knowledge with me. I was expecting to cut most of this out of the final edits so I could put together a concise gear and axle swap video... but I realized that some of you, and I understand it won't be all of you, may find this as interesting as I did, and could perhaps get some value out of the small tidbits of information Paul passed to me along the way. He allowed me to hang out and film the entire process...but didn't stop there... he actually stopped to teach along the way. Consider this your gear school!
These rear axle upgrades come as part of the Dynatrac Trail Leader Package. Here is the info on that package:
www.dynatrac.com/trail-leader...
We created the Trail Leader Axle Package™ for Jeep JK owners who enjoy moderate off-roading and want reliable drivetrain durability after upgrading to 33- to 37-inch-tall tires. This package gives you all the Dynatrac strength and durability you need without requiring wheel changes or other costly upgrades that simply aren't necessary for the type of off-roading you do.
The Trail Leader Axle Package™ includes an assembled ProRock 44™ Unlimited front axle with 1/2-inch thick axle tube walls complete with Dynatrac HD Rebuildable Balljoints, Dynatrac Pro Series™ diff cover, front Dynatrac axleshafts, ARB air Locker and ring-and-pinion gear set. Move your factory spindles and brakes onto this new front axle and the assembly is ready to bot into your Jeep! The package also includes the following to upgrade your factory Dana 44: Dynatrac JK44 Axleshaft Upgrade Kit™, 35-spline ARB Air Locker, Dynatrac Pro Series™ diff cover, ring-and-pinion gear set and a set-up kit..
NOTE: The Trail Leader Axle Package™ is only for non-Rubicon Jeep JK models. If you own a Rubicon model, please have a look at our ProRock 44 front axle housing upgrade and our Serious Performance Axle Set™.
What You Get:
ProRock 44™ Unlimited Front Axle
Dynatrac-exclusive patented ProRock® nodular-iron, high-pinion ProRock 44™ centersection with control arm bushings installed.
Best-in-class ground clearance and more ground clearance than a factory Dana 30.
3-inch-diameter x ½-inch-thick wall tubing that is 3 times stronger than any stock JK Dana 44 housing.
Dynatrac’s U.S.-made forged, double-heat-treated 1350 axleshaft assemblies are included. You get our latest inner and outer 4340 shafts with new U-joints installed.
Dynatrac HD BallJoints™ are already installed; the last balljoints you’ll ever need.
Includes our latest integrated raised track-bar and ram-assist steering mounting package. Dynatrac now offers the very best high-strength steering linkage and integrated ram-assist bracket in the industry.
Dynatrac precision-aligned, alloy-steel end forgings, 100% made in the USA.
ProRock 44™ Unlimited housing geometry for superior handling and optimal pinion and driveshaft angle for lifted JKs.
Rock-proof nodular-iron Dynatrac diff cover.
All HD suspension brackets are CNC laser-cut and professionally welded and installed, including high-mount track-bar bracket setup for lifted JKs with top-down mounted drag links and high-steering packages.
1350 yoke
ARB Air Locker
Axle includes your choice of available selectable lockers and 4.88, 5.13 or 5.38 gear sets.
Dynatrac 35-Spline JK44 Rear Dana 44 Upgrade Kit
Dynatrac 35-Spline JK44 Axleshaft Kit
35-spline ARB Air Locker (including bearing and shims)
Dynatrac Pro Series™ nodular-iron differential cover
Ring and Pinion gear set
Gear installation and set-up kit
All the strength your JK Dana 44 rear axle will ever need! This rear JK44 Axleshaft Bundle Kit increases the shaft diameter to from 30- to 35-spline. The shafts feature Dynatrac proprietary deep heat-treat for optimum yield strength (resistance to twisting) without making the axleshafts brittle. The shafts are U.S.-made, equipped with rolled splines and include new wheel studs, billet steel retainers, seals and all of the hardware that will be needed for installation. If you need more strength than this, then you need a Dynatrac ProRock® rear axle!
JK44 Axleshaft™ Features Include:
U.S. Made 35-spline axleshafts
New billet tone rings already installed on the axleshafts.
Dynatrac Billet Axleshaft Retainers with studs - Always insist on Dynatrac retainers. Our studs will not strip and spin like other retainers.
Axleshafts are drilled with BOTH wheel bolt patterns.
We install the studs for you in the right pattern when you order the kit.
This kit has the studs installed for the factory bolt pattern.
Rear axleshaft kit fits factory Dana 44 (not for the Rubicon version).
Axleshafts come complete and ready to install (no additional work needed) We do ALL the press work for you!!!
No modifications to housing is needed.
New axleshaft bearings and seals are included. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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It is amazing to watch someone that knows what they are doing.
We were taught in trade school here down under to have lots of resistance when marking the gears, we actually use a piece of wood and jam it between the crown wheel and housing just enough to have lots of resistance when turning the diff, makes a huge difference.
I've learned a ton and know what to look for in a shop when considering gear replacement.
Gonna be using this shop for my new gears. great to have a shop like this in Maryland
Best gear set up series ever!
I wish we had a shop in Vegas this good.
Hell, I’m in Pittsburgh and gonna use this shop.
That looks perfect.
thank for that show ,then i know what to do , with new pinions bearings up no problems.
Great video quick question, at the very end what would that tention inch/lbs be for a gm 10 bolt?
Awesome video THANKS !
Very informative!
Nice job
I've seen other use 'test' bearings on the pinion and carrier. Any reason you don't or not to?
great videos,but can you tell me if you are using the new bearings and pulling them back apart then putting them back on again or are you using old bearings on the pinion and honeing the inside of the bearing and pulling it back off again? i have dana 44 axles i put in a 08 wrangler and i dont think it has been apart but it has about 120,000 on air lockers from rubicon and it looks loke they are making contact completely on drive side all over but not up too high but seems it should be centered more on drive and coast side instead of almost all over the teeth.im worried.any help appreciated,again great job on the work.your awesome
So he said he damaged the old bearing taking it off what did he do to the Newberry come on you got to show this stuff man.
Great vid Can you tell me by deducting 5 thousands on pinion dept ,How many thousands would it add or deduct on backlash ?
With Jim Morrison on the background..nice)
When you pulled that bearing to adjust the shim for the pinion depth, were you able to reuse the bearing? Doesn't the puller wreck it? That is a pretty expensive bearing too, if you use the USA ones.
As long as you the right sized separator and get it fully under the inner race so aren't pushing on the cage they usually come off without damage. After all you're not really apply much more force pulling it off then you are pressing it on.
Great video.
Go buy a 3/4" torque multiplier. It allows you very exact small controlled increases of torque on the crush sleeve. It takes the "Oh Sh*t" out of the final adjustments. ;-)
Ì did the spacer crush sleeve eliminator on mine because of this.
what does it mean if the coast and drive sides are on different ends of the gear? one close to the inside of the tooth and the other towards the outside of the teeth.
#point of correction- crush sleeve actually helps to maintain preload#
I don't understand why Paul installed the new crush sleeve, crushing it to a 'no' preload condition, then took it back apart and installed the oil slinger, new seal, etc., reinstalling the drive flange again with new nut. Why did he perform this operation twice?
SO WHEN YOU WENT DEEPER WITH PINION DEPTH, WHERE WERE YOU AT IN REGARDS TO SHIM THICKNESS AND HOW MUCH MORE SHIMS DID YOU HAVE TO ADD TO GET THE RIGHT DEPTH?
As bad as the pattern looked the first time, he most likely added around .008 more shim.
Maybe I'm wrong but when you set the gears with the marking compound, it was set with the pinion nut. Then you took it apart and started all over with the crush sleeve. Since the crush sleeve adjust the pinion depth, what were you setting ? It wasn't clear in the video. Why set something up to immediately take it apart again, start the entire job all over with the crush sleeve. Isn't the crush sleeve the adjustment on the pinion ? I don't see anything else. I'm confused about this. I am going to use a crush sleeve eliminator as I can't measure the 300 ft/lb torque that is required to crush the sleeve. My torque wrench maxes out at 250 lb/ft. The crush sleeve eliminator shim setup requires 120 lb/ft which I can easily do and measure but have trouble with the thickness. How do I know what thickness is needed ?
The crush sleeve sets bearing preload not pinion depth. The washer/shim between the inner bearing and the pinion gear sets pinion depth. I recommend video to learn about ring and pinion setup th-cam.com/video/dAqAqODmcj4/w-d-xo.html
You dont need to use a torque wrench to measure the 300 ft lbs it takes to get the crush sleeve to start crushing since that isnt the final torque value. You can use a cheater bar just like they are. The 300 ft lbs is irrelevant. You measure the amount of inch lbs it takes to rotate the pinion. In this case it was 22-35 in lbs. so for example you see in the video they used a big breaker bar and a pipe extension in order to crush the crush sleeve little by little and stoping to measure the inch lbs of rotational torque it takes to turn the pinion. You just work your way up slowly. First get the slack out, then tighten it a little more little by little and measuring along the way till you get the 22-35 in lbs of rotational torque you want.
should throw a jackstand under the rear end when cranking on the pinion nut
What’s the name of the tool you use to know the tension in the pinion nut??
its a dial torque wrench - sometimes called a "rotational" torque wrench.
At about 3:45, he made the pinion deeper. Does that mean a thinner or thicker shim?
me thicker. Pinion was moved deeper into the ring gear.
@@snaproll94e Actually the opposite. The deeper the pinion is the farther away it is from the axle centerline. He used a thinner shim to move the contact patch towards the outer edge of the ring gear to center it up on the gear.
Killer2600 I work for a company that makes ring and pinions as well as other gear sets. I've spent a fair amount of time running a Gleason gear tester, matching and measuring gear sets. In our world, the terms deeper and shallower refer to the mesh of the gears. Deeper is into mesh, pinion moves toward the axle/ring gear centerline , shallower is out of mesh, pinion moves away from the axle centerline. Adding shims to the pinion moves the pinion into mesh/deeper, removing shims moves the pinion out of mesh/shallower. I've never heard these terms reversed, anywhere in the world.
@@snaproll94e I didn't make up my terminology, I learned it much like you. The only difference is I learned it from those that install/build axles not cut gears. If you were someone who cut your own gears then yes you'd likely to refer the the depth of cut. But for the axle build who doesn't cut teeth, depth refers to how far in the diff housing the pinion has to go. At the most shallow (where it's just starting to go in) it hits/interferes with the diff cover. Push it in deeper and it ends up where it goes.
Is there a con to using an impact to set pinion preload
yes, they dont make an impact with the ability to set to a specific torque
I use an impact to draw it up all the time. I don't use all that monkey motion ratchet/cheater bar crap.
I get vibrations at 50 mph no vibrations below that speed is that a sign of low preload
Driveline out of balance
If they don't want to watch it all, they can fast forward..🤘
Pinion preload on a dana 44 is 14 to 19 inch pounds. He damn near doubled it!
The JK 44 uses different pinion bearings than the gen-1 model 44.
♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️
you know the engine could use a impact on the pinion nut , LOL
You're not going in reverse
The crush sleeve has nothing to do with achieving the pinion bearing preload. You can set pinion bearing preload with out a crush sleeve in place. You would have to use a jam nut with the pinion nut to assure it dont come loose. The crush sleeve allows the pinion nut to be tightened to a torque value that will keep nut from coming loose with out over pre-loading pinion bearings.
Use a half inch drill motor and a wooden stake.
Put a cut off extension in the drill the other end in a socket so you can spin ring and pinion together make sure to go both ways while adding resistance with a wooden stake do not under any circumstance put your fingers anywhere near any of the rotating components.
@10:50 cringe cringe cringe, hammer plus bearings and races= miniature dimples that will lead to noise and wear.
Cheater bar what the hell is that it's called a torque enhancer otherwise they will take it away from you as dangerous an unapproved tool.
Whoever did the subtitles on this needs to learn how to spell.