I am glad to see a demonstration whereby the wheel is being turned while the new grease is being pumped in. This is a Dynamic procedure -vs- Static, and is very important to understand! If the wheel is not turned, the new grease will take a path right between the rollers, not allowing for a full or complete exchange! At 2:00 into the video, you will see a somewhat discolored grease exiting. This is the old grease, not new grease as the author said. At 2:12 into the video, he corrects himself. Not all grease chemistry is the same, and in some cases, incompatable chemistry will cause the grease to lose viscosity. If you are not sure of what type of grease was origianally used, test them to make sure that the two are compatable.
I bought a brand new pontoon. The trailer had these hubs from OEM. After launching my boat a few times the grease in the left hand hub came out of the rubber cap. Returned to the dealer they said it’s fine. It did it again today. The grease in both hubs are lavender in color. I bought a couple tubes of Lucas red and tacky and pushed all the lavender grease out. Is there a more serious problem that I should bring it to the dealer?
I like Lucas R&T lube but for boat trailers I use a full synthetic marine rated grease. Mystik is the brand and it's blue in color. It is more tolerant of water intrusion.
That’s great and all but you really should be explaining to people that this isn’t a recommended procedure on a regular basis. Even Dexter recommends pulling the hubs and visually inspecting the condition of the bearings, hub/break ware. Also if your not seeing any grease coming out within 12 pumps of the grease gun I recommend stoping and pulling the wheel as many times this is an indication of a blockage which means the actual grease is seeping past your seals and contaminating the pads, magnets etc... which is a costly repair if that happens, You can not clean these and use them again so new backing plates will be required.
If this is the first time the hub has been serviced using this method, it will require a lot of grease to fill the hub and push back out the front. This is how the system was designed and with a bit of care it will works well. Just follow the instructions. Not to say you can't hand-pack the bearings if you feel more secure in doing so. That is always an option.
@@BugSmacker i followed the exact instructions in the dexter video and decided to get it inspected this year...the were way overfilled apparently and told me no more than 3 or 4 pumps
I wish my new grease was much different color than the old stuff. He is replacing red grease with grey, so its easy here. However, this was still very helpful. I needed to see how much old grease comes out.
The old grease will be grey when it comes out of the bearings. If you pump long enough, you will see the new (red) grease coming out, meaning that all of the old grease has been forced out of the bearings.
My manual for my Al-KO axles says you do not have to lift the wheel off the ground to grease the bearings with UltraLube hubs. Not sure what to believe. FYI: Dexter Purchased Al-KO a few years back.
How do you figure that? The space/volume between the rollers where the grease flows through remains the same whether or not the bearing is turning or stationary.
Does not matter. Some manufacturers say spin, some say not necessary. The bearing does not "open up" to allow more grease through while turning... if you feel better spinning the wheel, do it... but it's not necessary once the hub is fully packed with grease.
The grease than comes out into the cap has already been forced out thru the bearings. Clean it out to avoid it being slung out past the rubber cap by centrifugal force.
Not me (the rod), I like mine left OUT, so I can see just where I am quantity-wise (or grease that's LEFT in the cyl.), as this 'moves' as It's "drawn-down".
Joe Chiarelli no there would be no point in cleaning amd repacking every year with this system. I would check for end play in the hub while its on the jack. Work the wheel from side to side to check for slack. It any is detected re-adjust as nesessary.
What is your opinion on Walmart's Super Tech Lithium grease. Specs seem pretty good - anything glaring that would make it not good for trailer wheel bearings? Its very cost effective - especially when purchased in the 3 pack.
I would think it would be fine to use this type. Dexter recommends using a Lithium Complex type grease. They also specify not to mix different types of grease.
Talked to dexter today.....they said this is for marine use only. Your bearings need air in the hub in order to keep cool. This technique would prevent that. FYI
I am glad to see a demonstration whereby the wheel is being turned while the new grease is being pumped in. This is a Dynamic procedure -vs- Static, and is very important to understand!
If the wheel is not turned, the new grease will take a path right between the rollers, not allowing for a full or complete exchange!
At 2:00 into the video, you will see a somewhat discolored grease exiting. This is the old grease, not new grease as the author said. At 2:12 into the video, he corrects himself.
Not all grease chemistry is the same, and in some cases, incompatable chemistry will cause the grease to lose viscosity. If you are not sure of what type of grease was origianally used, test them to make sure that the two are compatable.
nice job on the video. you have got it right just pump slow and you will not pump past the rear seal
I bought a brand new pontoon. The trailer had these hubs from OEM. After launching my boat a few times the grease in the left hand hub came out of the rubber cap. Returned to the dealer they said it’s fine. It did it again today. The grease in both hubs are lavender in color.
I bought a couple tubes of Lucas red and tacky and pushed all the lavender grease out.
Is there a more serious problem that I should bring it to the dealer?
I like Lucas R&T lube but for boat trailers I use a full synthetic marine rated grease. Mystik is the brand and it's blue in color. It is more tolerant of water intrusion.
I purchase the grease from a local hardware store. It is a Lithium Compound grease manufactured by Mag1.
That’s great and all but you really should be explaining to people that this isn’t a recommended procedure on a regular basis. Even Dexter recommends pulling the hubs and visually inspecting the condition of the bearings, hub/break ware. Also if your not seeing any grease coming out within 12 pumps of the grease gun I recommend stoping and pulling the wheel as many times this is an indication of a blockage which means the actual grease is seeping past your seals and contaminating the pads, magnets etc... which is a costly repair if that happens, You can not clean these and use them again so new backing plates will be required.
If this is the first time the hub has been serviced using this method, it will require a lot of grease to fill the hub and push back out the front. This is how the system was designed and with a bit of care it will works well. Just follow the instructions. Not to say you can't hand-pack the bearings if you feel more secure in doing so. That is always an option.
@@BugSmacker i followed the exact instructions in the dexter video and decided to get it inspected this year...the were way overfilled apparently and told me no more than 3 or 4 pumps
I wish my new grease was much different color than the old stuff. He is replacing red grease with grey, so its easy here. However, this was still very helpful. I needed to see how much old grease comes out.
The old grease will be grey when it comes out of the bearings. If you pump long enough, you will see the new (red) grease coming out, meaning that all of the old grease has been forced out of the bearings.
My manual for my Al-KO axles says you do not have to lift the wheel off the ground to grease the bearings with UltraLube hubs. Not sure what to believe. FYI: Dexter Purchased Al-KO a few years back.
Rotating the wheel makes is easier for the grease to flow past the bearings and reduced the potential to push grease past the seals.
How do you figure that? The space/volume between the rollers where the grease flows through remains the same whether or not the bearing is turning or stationary.
Does not matter. Some manufacturers say spin, some say not necessary. The bearing does not "open up" to allow more grease through while turning... if you feel better spinning the wheel, do it... but it's not necessary once the hub is fully packed with grease.
how do you keep from damaging grease seals? everyone have talked to have a leaking seal after degreasing, as per video?
Pump the grease in S-L-O-W-L-Y with a MANUAL grease gun. No Air or Electric guns... they pump too fast.
thanks for the help
Does this take a special fitting on the grease gun. I noticed my grease gun tip does not fit in tightly?
Car mate trailer idle hube
Grease gun tips usually are adjustable, screw in to tighten
How much grease do you leave on the inside of the cap between the outer bearing and dust cap?
I would keep it pretty clean. You want the grease in the bearing.
The grease than comes out into the cap has already been forced out thru the bearings. Clean it out to avoid it being slung out past the rubber cap by centrifugal force.
What a GREAT "How To" !! Thanks !! :-)
Someone should tell the guy to push the follower rod into the cylinder. It's a lot easier to handle the gun without the rod sticking out of the end.
That is what I was thinking when the video started. Also I would not use lithium but a good synthetic.
Not me (the rod), I like mine left OUT, so I can see just where I am quantity-wise (or grease that's LEFT in the cyl.), as this 'moves' as It's "drawn-down".
is there a reason to use Bearing buddy with this kind of setup?
No.
Do you still clean and re
pack them every year?
No.
Gary McCray yes
Joe Chiarelli no there would be no point in cleaning amd repacking every year with this system. I would check for end play in the hub while its on the jack. Work the wheel from side to side to check for slack. It any is detected re-adjust as nesessary.
No. 5 or 6 pumps of grease into the axle, and you have just repacked both bearings, assuming that you have the hub full of grease to begin with.
thanks bro!
Great video! I've enjoyed others that you posted as well so I subscribed. :) What kind of gloves do you use? They seem pretty durable!
What is your opinion on Walmart's Super Tech Lithium grease. Specs seem pretty good - anything glaring that would make it not good for trailer wheel bearings? Its very cost effective - especially when purchased in the 3 pack.
I would think it would be fine to use this type. Dexter recommends using a Lithium Complex type grease. They also specify not to mix different types of grease.
I use Lucas Red and Tacky 2. It's lithium based and has a high drop point of 540 degrees.
Talked to dexter today.....they said this is for marine use only. Your bearings need air in the hub in order to keep cool. This technique would prevent that. FYI
Uh, no. Your friend dexter is Wrong. Even the receptionist at Dexter Axle would know better than that.
If that were true, why would they put EZ Lube axles on in the first place?
oralrobert33 air in bearing? Are you for real or just being funny?