What I like about you Roger is you’re so humble. I’ve met so many arrogant tradesmen that think they’ve cracked the enigma code by mastering their trade and no one else could possibly ever learn it too
I like that bit about the Enigma code, I will borrow that if I may. I think the objection from tradesmen is largely territorial and I can understand people feeling threatened. I firmly believe that any reasonably intelligent person should be able to learn several trades during their lifetime. James King on this channel is a perfect example. He is a good bricklayer, carpenter, plumber, tiler, plasterer, guitarist, with two bands, and a bloody good cook. I keep discovering other talents that he has but he doesn't shout about any of them.
Skill Builder absolutely, I currently run a loft conversion business, however I trained as an engineer and had previously worked as a car mechanic. Needless to say I can now lend my hand to many trades including plumbing, electrics, roofing, carpentry and more recently plastering (thanks to your videos).
Something else to say about this flooring... I am a Reflexologist (31 years) ... sending on my feet all day long. I had this kind of flooring and it was amazing to work on!!! Great for your back and feet!!!
Fantastic tutorial. I stumbled across this video whilst awaiting delivery of 3 boxes of Karndean Looselay Longboard Pearl Oak and am so pleased that I did. The explanation given here of how to cut the boards to size is absolutely invaluable. It seems so obvious once understood but it’s not how I would have gone about it had I not seen the video. The end result I achieved is absolutely stunning. The product is supplied with some MDF boards at the bottom of each pack which are the same width as the flooring planks and which I found really useful not only for using as a straight edge and 90 degree square but I also for making templates for the most challenging cuts (around architraves and multiple corners). I was fortunate enough for the subfloor of my newly built room to be flat and level enough to require only moderate preparation, and provided that the subfloor has been adequately prepared, I really can’t fault this product, I do have some small pieces cut to skirting boards and door thresholds but I haven’t used any adhesive at all and there’s no movement whatsoever. To summarise ... An absolutely fantastic product from Karndean and if you’ve ordered some Looselay, watching this video is the best possible way you could spend 18 minutes and 31 seconds of your time whilst awaiting delivery.
Lot's of mixed reviews, I see but I enjoyed this video and learned a simple but very effected trick for easily getting the end piece correct. Thanks so much!
Brilliant video, how do you scribe round circular corners, like the first stair that’s rounded on the stair case. Also did you under cut the door frames or scribe them?
Great video, picked up a lot of tips, thanks. Researching this as a possible flooring in my bathroom - wanted wood, but don't trust the splash proof laminates to be able to stand up to the rigours of a young family. Vinyl has come a long way from the cracked, brittle stuff I remember from my childhood!
I think that old stuff was lino but no matter this is way better but if you want totally waterproof you need to look at Palion Click from Karndean. The new video for this should be out in the next few weeks.
Great video thanks for all the details! You mentioned using your finger as a guide when cutting the tiles. I could not see what you were doing in this video. How exactly do you hold the knife and which finger is the guide and where do you place this finger. I know this is a tricky thing to show in a video or even to explain with words
th-cam.com/video/WzMwXJKogyM/w-d-xo.html If you look carefully you will see that one of my fingers that are wrapped around the handle is actuall straight and it is running along the edge of the board so it is feeling the board as the blade follows. It just gives you some tactile engagement. The blade is sharp so it could cut into the guide but having the finger on the board is like a blind person using a stick to feel their way.
Hi !! I need a big help here , my jar dean it’s been done 4 years ago to all the corner it’s been applied silicone to seal which I don’t really like, it’s look bad and as the house made some movement created a gap between the skirting board and the floor , what shall I do to solve this problem ?
Thanks for this extremely informative video! We’re planning to do our entire bungalow floor in Karndean as we’re getting a new floor throughout with underfloor heating. Could I ask if you have any tips for laying this product in a parquet pattern please? Likely herringbone format.. Thanks!
How can you install this with out an expansion joint. I get Vinyl has very little expansion depending on the body make up. But the house itself should still be expanding and contracting. How doesnt installing right to the base not cause buckling when humid and gaps when dry weather occurs
Ryan I am not a scientist. The backing it GRP and it is dense. I have had this down in a number of places for a few years now and there is no sign of any buckling. I know it is counter-intuitive but it works.
Roger- Great tips! We're 3/4 of the way through our install (I think we even have the same pattern as the one on your demo) and the product and installation process exceeds our expectations. I think my supplier sold us the wrong "adhesive." They specified "K-Spray" and not the Tackifier you showed. I was in a pinch for time, so I used a pin nailer on the first row to keep it from moving. Four pins in each length held it fine, and the pins went below surface and were essentially "swallowed up" by the vinyl and are invisible. I will get the tackifier though to stick down some of the smaller ends and still leave them removable for repairs and such. A word of caution about moving heavy items back onto the freshly laid floor--particularly items that have wheels/casters. On our freshly laid tiles, things hadn't settled in enough to prevent movement. Our advice; wait to move that kind of stuff --if you can.
Good advice. I think the spray is fine. It is used on carpet tiles so basically the same deal just more expensive. If they are down and not lifting I would leave them
Help! have had Karndean flooring down for over 10 years and have overall been happy with it ..... however. One of the tiles (out of (100+ layed) has decided that it was fed up with being black/grey marbled and half of it has turned light blue. Any ideas on why half a tile would change colour or a fix other than replace? Not an edge tile all tiles around it are fine.
Hi, I have a narrowboat, which Karndean flooring would work, I would re.ove the skiting boards first. My vinyl has moved at joins, would the sa.e happen with loose key but not click
I think you need to be careful about moisture condensing on the underside of the floor. I would use loose lay and a tackifier. You can then take it up if there are moisture issues.
I loved your video. My question is about the ripples showing up when the sun hits it. What causes the ripples? We had a Karndean floor installed and there are many placed with rippled planks. How do we fix that? Thank you for your help :)
No it says not to use underlay but make sure no joints are visible in the chipboard. I would be inclined to use a filler on anything that will show through.
Hi Mark From what I remember Amtico has a harder surface than this vinyl but this is a lot thicker and, as you say, easier. It seems to have taken a lot of the market from Amtico.
Hi, this video is great. I am moving into an older rental apartment that has hardwood floors that have been painted over in a horrible dark burgundy color and I am considering doing a loose lay flooring for the living room and bedroom. Would this be a suitable product to cover painted wood floors??
Ohio I have rentals to how much is these stuff per square foot? I been using this life proof stuff but this stuff seems so easy to install an a great product.
I am thinking of putting this in a kitchen diner, but it doesnt have a perimiter skirting board all round as it would go under the kitchen plinth a little, does the tackifyer stop it moving in this situation?
cool, so the screed didn't make contact with the wood skirting? I'm going to try to install loosely but am concerned that the screen might crack around the skirting as the wood contracts/expands.
It isn't generally an issue. If it flows up to the skirting and you take out the lumps and bumps it will be fine. Even if you got a hairline crack around the screed it would be O.K but that self leveller has latex and it has flexibility.
Any tips for homeowners who are instilling this in a 1910 home with a really uneven concrete subfloor? I'm thinking on high places I should use glue to that the planks stay put?
You need to get someone to lay a latex self smoothing screed down. If you don't have a completely flat smooth floor it will telegraph through and you will see all the lumps and bumps.
Perfect for kitchens. You can mop it and if it gets damaged or worn you can move some tiles. Spend lots of time getting that screed right and the rest is easy.
We just had ours layed and we love the product but feel it wasn't installed right. I don't know if we're being fussy or not but majority of our boards are not flush with each other. Some are higher then others like 2 to 3 mm and some have angle gaps in between them yet again 2 to 3mm. If anyone has any opinions please let me know. Thanks
Great video thanks and more meticulous and detailed in the advice given. My (slight) concern is whether these Looselay planks are really OK for bathrooms and the like: won't any water spillage just seep through the joints and ruin the subfloor? And where the floor buts up to a shower tray, should it be sealed with a silicone mastic or similar?
I have now done several schools in the US - one larger district has made it a building standard spec and eliminated VCT and sheet goods all together. Has worked very well in bathrooms and lunch rooms.
I always try and take the pan (bowl) out and lay under it but if you have to cut around it then do it with a stiff paper template. That way you can be spot on. The other way is to scribe around it. We will try and make a little video to cover this subject.
Now you've given me a dilemma! I am also replacing the heavily dented white painted pine skirting to use oak and had intended to lay the Karndean under the new skirting. But I see the advantage of having a dead straight edge from the new skirting and butting the Karndean against that (as you have done). No doubt laying it against the plaster wall will have some uneveness but I guess I can mark a best straight line and use this. What would you opt for if you had the choice? Thanks for the VERY USEFUL video Roger. Paul
If it is loose lay you must have the hard edge to lay to. You could lay a narrow batten against the wall and cut the flooring to it then top it off with a skirting which covered the batten. That would give you a perfect edge
Hello Roger, thanks for sharing this information. I have refloored my whole house. Is there a simple way to cut in when the length required is less than two full vinyl planks? I am about to lay Vinyl Floor Planks in my kitchen and I want to cut in against the kickers. The length is less than two full planks and I am at a loss as the method I have been using (as demonstrated by you and is fabulous) requires a length exceeding two full planks. Any help is appreciated. Regards, Brian AUS.
Janet J. Expanding foam I would guess or something to stop any movement. There’s a type of glue that expands also. Either way you’d just scrape it back to flat and would be good to go with the flooring
You shouldn't need to use a straight edge for the cut. Just scribe using the header join on your scribe board. ensure your blade is tight against the header join and you will get it dean on, with no issues. install the last plank of the row (before the cut) and then scribe cut the plank you've just installed, take it out and replace it. Saves time trying to line two up (over a large area, saves ALOT of time) and ensure you get the plank dead on where you need it. You'll also find cutting karndean 10 times easier with a concave knife blade, not a straight. take the edge off before laying it with a block plane, also. if you're not handy with a Stanley you will risk cutting yourself. Also, when scribing in the length of the board, scribe the wall using a 30 cm cut off of board. You can't scribe in a long plank, using a straight edge, on a bent wall..... just some tips :)
Hi Robert I am making a new video for Karndean on Monday and I will incorporate your tips. Concave blades and replacing the last whole board. How do you avoid marking the board next to it when you cut?
what colour did you use here please ? Also , can a damp proof membrane be used underneath it on cement floor . Do all lower kitchen cabinets have to be removed to install ? Or can adhesive be used used ?
It looks great in your photo. What is the name of the one you are putting in? I have gone to their loose-lay floor selections, but couldn't figure out which one you used.
I think it add's only half of the blade thickness... assuming the cutting edge is in the middle of the blade. =) Looks like a fantastic product.. I wonder if it is as affordable as laminate.
You may well be right but they are thick blades. I don't like those thin bendy ones. It sounds like a tiny amount but I have tried it both ways and you can see the difference.
He Ka I have just been playing around with three place mats on the dinner table and it seems to me that my initial statement about the thickness of the blade might be correct. Give it a try and let me know what you think. Two half thicknesses
Skill Builder I'm afraid I don't got the equipment to do the experiment =D I just figured that if the blade is resting against a fence and the actual cutting edge cuts at the center point of the blade. Then it must "add" just one half of the blade thickness... but I guess soft materials may flex and stretch.
O.K somebody else take this up. It isn't to do with stretch. Just lay a couple of CD cases as I laid the tiles and see how the cut point alters. Use a third CD case as the knife to make it easier to measure. Lay them on a bit of paper and mark them. Moving the cut line as I did gives you the thickness of the CD case not half of it. This sort of thing drives me nuts so I need to know. I need closure..
Skill Builder Well.. this is literally splitting hairs =P When you put the second CD case against the first one, it doesn't move the cutting line at all. Then you put your knife-CD case against the second CD case and start cutting. The actual cutting edge of the knife-CD case is in the middle of the knife-CD cases edge? Not on one side or the other? Am I making any sense here xD ???! Well in any case the cut you make with the knife is forming on the center of the blade. So I think this action adds just half of the thickness. PS: I'm truly sorry, but I have a hard time trying to explain this sort of technical stuff. My native language being something completely different than English. =D
in 2019 are you still a fan of loose lay after probably hearing back from customers who had it installed (not necessarily by you) or prefer the click systems despite being a bit more involved for a noob home owner DIY? thanks
If you are using Palio Core you can lay on tiles but the other Karndean products will telegraph through so you will see the grout lines. The self leveller or filler on the grout lines will help.
I agree with you the natural product is nicer but upstairs Karndean is a lot quieter and the areas of wear that occur with solid wood, in a kitchen for example, are hard to deal with.
Thomas Sheet vinyl needs to be stuck down and you need a roller and a very good eye for cutting it in. I would never attempt it but this is easy. If you mess one plank up you can change it for another.
You can get to the floors from the eaves cupboards. The cables and pipes are not joined under the floors. That said you can still cut out a board in the usual way. Plenty of people close in floors.
And that is why you shouldn`t let inexperienced bodgers loose on something they should stay well clear of! Like he says, "If it`s not your game don`t do it"
Ditto, it`s garbage, does not stay put. I did a small kitchen and the tiles moved around, eventually I rang Karndean and they said they`d had numerous problems with it slipping so I was advised to stick it down. Never used it again, pointless crap!! I have 45 years in the flooring trade.
When you say it "moved" do you mean the individual tiles would pop up or the whole floor would shift? I read that unlike laminate, this floor has to be installed "super tight" not to move. I have been given an extremely high quote to do a glue down install LVT Karndean (on a cement slab) and part of the estimated cost may be that the floor has to be sealed because it has a high moisture content.
The tiles moved around. Re: your install. It will need a DPM (Damp proof membrane) This is not an expensive job at all so don`t let them rip you off. I`ve seen quotes of several hundred pounds when it should be around £100 for a standard lounge.
steve lane The jobs I have done have been really good. It is tight so it has nowhere to move to and doesn't lift. Sound insulation on foot traffic is also impressive, way better than timber. There is a tacifier for the perimeter strips and you can use it across the whole floor but I didn't bother.
@@patrickwilson7309 There isn't one. It appears LoOperJump read the title and open his mouth. I'm quite certain that he's never installed LooseLay, but knows it sucks :)
Kathryn If you took the time to watch the video before you comment you would find that this floor is made for a tight fit, no expansion gaps and Karndean gave us a master class on how to fit it and they have approved the technical content.
Shows you don't know squat kathryn. This job does NOT suck and done to manufactures instructions. This is "lose lay LVT". Go back in the kitchen now and fetch me my dinner. After you get my dinner I will give you a lesson on sucking. And you had to edit two sentences? Definitely above your skill level. Stick to what your good at...cooking, cleaning and sucking.
What I like about you Roger is you’re so humble. I’ve met so many arrogant tradesmen that think they’ve cracked the enigma code by mastering their trade and no one else could possibly ever learn it too
I like that bit about the Enigma code, I will borrow that if I may. I think the objection from tradesmen is largely territorial and I can understand people feeling threatened. I firmly believe that any reasonably intelligent person should be able to learn several trades during their lifetime. James King on this channel is a perfect example. He is a good bricklayer, carpenter, plumber, tiler, plasterer, guitarist, with two bands, and a bloody good cook. I keep discovering other talents that he has but he doesn't shout about any of them.
Skill Builder absolutely, I currently run a loft conversion business, however I trained as an engineer and had previously worked as a car mechanic. Needless to say I can now lend my hand to many trades including plumbing, electrics, roofing, carpentry and more recently plastering (thanks to your videos).
Something else to say about this flooring...
I am a Reflexologist (31 years) ... sending on my feet all day long.
I had this kind of flooring and it was amazing to work on!!!
Great for your back and feet!!!
Fantastic tutorial. I stumbled across this video whilst awaiting delivery of 3 boxes of Karndean Looselay Longboard Pearl Oak and am so pleased that I did.
The explanation given here of how to cut the boards to size is absolutely invaluable. It seems so obvious once understood but it’s not how I would have gone about it had I not seen the video. The end result I achieved is absolutely stunning.
The product is supplied with some MDF boards at the bottom of each pack which are the same width as the flooring planks and which I found really useful not only for using as a straight edge and 90 degree square but I also for making templates for the most challenging cuts (around architraves and multiple corners).
I was fortunate enough for the subfloor of my newly built room to be flat and level enough to require only moderate preparation, and provided that the subfloor has been adequately prepared, I really can’t fault this product, I do have some small pieces cut to skirting boards and door thresholds but I haven’t used any adhesive at all and there’s no movement whatsoever.
To summarise ... An absolutely fantastic product from Karndean and if you’ve ordered some Looselay, watching this video is the best possible way you could spend 18 minutes and 31 seconds of your time whilst awaiting delivery.
Steve
That is great to know. This is what it is all about
Lot's of mixed reviews, I see but I enjoyed this video and learned a simple but very effected trick for easily getting the end piece correct. Thanks so much!
Did all threw the house you would think it was laminate love it such a statement .
Brilliant video, how do you scribe round circular corners, like the first stair that’s rounded on the stair case. Also did you under cut the door frames or scribe them?
Great video, picked up a lot of tips, thanks. Researching this as a possible flooring in my bathroom - wanted wood, but don't trust the splash proof laminates to be able to stand up to the rigours of a young family. Vinyl has come a long way from the cracked, brittle stuff I remember from my childhood!
I think that old stuff was lino but no matter this is way better but if you want totally waterproof you need to look at Palion Click from Karndean. The new video for this should be out in the next few weeks.
Had the pros lay it a my place,best flooring ever.
Great video thanks for all the details! You mentioned using your finger as a guide when cutting the tiles. I could not see what you were doing in this video. How exactly do you hold the knife and which finger is the guide and where do you place this finger. I know this is a tricky thing to show in a video or even to explain with words
th-cam.com/video/WzMwXJKogyM/w-d-xo.html
If you look carefully you will see that one of my fingers that are wrapped around the handle is actuall straight and it is running along the edge of the board so it is feeling the board as the blade follows.
It just gives you some tactile engagement. The blade is sharp so it could cut into the guide but having the finger on the board is like a blind person using a stick to feel their way.
Loved your video. Too much information and great instruction. Very humble and very easy going personality. Thanks for your video. Cheers.
Hi !! I need a big help here , my jar dean it’s been done 4 years ago to all the corner it’s been applied silicone to seal which I don’t really like, it’s look bad and as the house made some movement created a gap between the skirting board and the floor , what shall I do to solve this problem ?
Thanks for this extremely informative video! We’re planning to do our entire bungalow floor in Karndean as we’re getting a new floor throughout with underfloor heating.
Could I ask if you have any tips for laying this product in a parquet pattern please? Likely herringbone format..
Thanks!
I would get a professional in to lay a herringbone, it is not a diy job. If the cuts aren't perfect it will look crap.
How can you install this with out an expansion joint. I get Vinyl has very little expansion depending on the body make up. But the house itself should still be expanding and contracting. How doesnt installing right to the base not cause buckling when humid and gaps when dry weather occurs
Ryan
I am not a scientist. The backing it GRP and it is dense. I have had this down in a number of places for a few years now and there is no sign of any buckling. I know it is counter-intuitive but it works.
Roger- Great tips! We're 3/4 of the way through our install (I think we even have the same pattern as the one on your demo) and the product and installation process exceeds our expectations. I think my supplier sold us the wrong "adhesive." They specified "K-Spray" and not the Tackifier you showed. I was in a pinch for time, so I used a pin nailer on the first row to keep it from moving. Four pins in each length held it fine, and the pins went below surface and were essentially "swallowed up" by the vinyl and are invisible. I will get the tackifier though to stick down some of the smaller ends and still leave them removable for repairs and such. A word of caution about moving heavy items back onto the freshly laid floor--particularly items that have wheels/casters. On our freshly laid tiles, things hadn't settled in enough to prevent movement. Our advice; wait to move that kind of stuff --if you can.
Good advice. I think the spray is fine. It is used on carpet tiles so basically the same deal just more expensive. If they are down and not lifting I would leave them
Great video. Thanks! I'm having 50m2 delivered today to install over the weekend. This is going to be a great help.
Thanks Corne. Send us a picture to www.skill-builder.uk. We are always interested to see other jobs.
this is very useful, thanks! what would you say is a fair price for someone laying this type of floor? we were quoted £100/sq mt from the reseller...
Getting ready to install this on stairs. Thanks for the video!!
Help! have had Karndean flooring down for over 10 years and have overall been happy with it ..... however. One of the tiles (out of (100+ layed) has decided that it was fed up with being black/grey marbled and half of it has turned light blue. Any ideas on why half a tile would change colour or a fix other than replace? Not an edge tile all tiles around it are fine.
Take a picture and send it to Karndean. It shouldn't happen so they might want to look at it.
Would this suitable for a kitchen and bathroom?
Hi, I have a narrowboat, which Karndean flooring would work, I would re.ove the skiting boards first. My vinyl has moved at joins, would the sa.e happen with loose key but not click
I think you need to be careful about moisture condensing on the underside of the floor. I would use loose lay and a tackifier. You can then take it up if there are moisture issues.
Hello sir.
We don't need expansion gaps around it?
Let me know please.
No you do not on loose lay
@@SkillBuilder Thank you very much.
I'm doing this tomorrow, so thank's for quick response.
I loved your video. My question is about the ripples showing up when the sun hits it. What causes the ripples? We had a Karndean floor installed and there are many placed with rippled planks. How do we fix that? Thank you for your help :)
Roger does this flooring need any kind of underlay? It's going on a chip board floor.
Regards.
Barry.
No it says not to use underlay but make sure no joints are visible in the chipboard. I would be inclined to use a filler on anything that will show through.
Skill Builder. Thank you.
Would this be as hard wearing as Amtico? It certainly looks easier to install.
Hi Mark
From what I remember Amtico has a harder surface than this vinyl but this is a lot thicker and, as you say, easier. It seems to have taken a lot of the market from Amtico.
Hi Roger, any specific brand you recommend for the floor levelling compound over the old floorboards?
Dunlop is good. It must have fibres in it
Hi, this video is great. I am moving into an older rental apartment that has hardwood floors that have been painted over in a horrible dark burgundy color and I am considering doing a loose lay flooring for the living room and bedroom. Would this be a suitable product to cover painted wood floors??
Hi It is a good choice but you will need some 6mm plywood over the boards to stop the pattern of the wood floor telegraphing through.
Ohio I have rentals to how much is these stuff per square foot? I been using this life proof stuff but this stuff seems so easy to install an a great product.
I am thinking of putting this in a kitchen diner, but it doesnt have a perimiter skirting board all round as it would go under the kitchen plinth a little, does the tackifyer stop it moving in this situation?
Just got Karndean flooring installed in my house today.
I bet they were quicker than me at laying it. How is it looking? Send some pictures to the website. www.skill-builder.uk
did you remove the skirting boards before screeding the floors?
No the self leveller is only about 3mm think and be rubbed it down around the edges where it tends to build up in a wave.
cool, so the screed didn't make contact with the wood skirting? I'm going to try to install loosely but am concerned that the screen might crack around the skirting as the wood contracts/expands.
It isn't generally an issue. If it flows up to the skirting and you take out the lumps and bumps it will be fine. Even if you got a hairline crack around the screed it would be O.K but that self leveller has latex and it has flexibility.
Any tips for homeowners who are instilling this in a 1910 home with a really uneven concrete subfloor? I'm thinking on high places I should use glue to that the planks stay put?
You need to get someone to lay a latex self smoothing screed down. If you don't have a completely flat smooth floor it will telegraph through and you will see all the lumps and bumps.
Really good info thanks, I am just going to level my kitchen floor would this be suitable for a kitchen ? Thanks
Perfect for kitchens. You can mop it and if it gets damaged or worn you can move some tiles. Spend lots of time getting that screed right and the rest is easy.
I also highly recommend battery powered blower to get rid of any small particles from cuts or shoes every few rows. Then vac last few rows.
We just had ours layed and we love the product but feel it wasn't installed right. I don't know if we're being fussy or not but majority of our boards are not flush with each other. Some are higher then others like 2 to 3 mm and some have angle gaps in between them yet again 2 to 3mm. If anyone has any opinions please let me know. Thanks
Floor prep not done
do you not glue this down at all?
Just around the perimeter but it is only a tackifier. It stays down perfectly elsewhere
Should all be tackified down
Great video thanks and more meticulous and detailed in the advice given. My (slight) concern is whether these Looselay planks are really OK for bathrooms and the like: won't any water spillage just seep through the joints and ruin the subfloor? And where the floor buts up to a shower tray, should it be sealed with a silicone mastic or similar?
Great point and there are interlocking tiles in the Karndean Palio Clic range that are completely water proof. It depends how wet you will get
I have now done several schools in the US - one larger district has made it a building standard spec and eliminated VCT and sheet goods all together. Has worked very well in bathrooms and lunch rooms.
hi how do you cut around toilet bowl ?
I always try and take the pan (bowl) out and lay under it but if you have to cut around it then do it with a stiff paper template. That way you can be spot on. The other way is to scribe around it. We will try and make a little video to cover this subject.
Now you've given me a dilemma! I am also replacing the heavily dented white painted pine skirting to use oak and had intended to lay the Karndean under the new skirting. But I see the advantage of having a dead straight edge from the new skirting and butting the Karndean against that (as you have done). No doubt laying it against the plaster wall will have some uneveness but I guess I can mark a best straight line and use this. What would you opt for if you had the choice? Thanks for the VERY USEFUL video Roger. Paul
If it is loose lay you must have the hard edge to lay to. You could lay a narrow batten against the wall and cut the flooring to it then top it off with a skirting which covered the batten. That would give you a perfect edge
Hello Roger, thanks for sharing this information. I have refloored my
whole house. Is there a simple way to cut in when the length required is
less than two full vinyl planks? I am about to lay Vinyl Floor Planks
in my kitchen and I want to cut in against the kickers. The length is
less than two full planks and I am at a loss as the method I have been
using (as demonstrated by you and is fabulous) requires a length
exceeding two full planks. Any help is appreciated. Regards, Brian AUS.
I am looking into laying my own karndean in my kitchen, this video seems very helpful, could I level and prepare the floor with plywood?
yes you can use plywood but fill the joints to stop them telegraphing through. It takes years sometimes but eventually they show.
@@SkillBuilder What should be used to fill the joints?
Janet J. Expanding foam I would guess or something to stop any movement. There’s a type of glue that expands also. Either way you’d just scrape it back to flat and would be good to go with the flooring
@@JanetJenkins ardex
How would this clicking and locking work on wood plank subfloors?
No good without ply. It needs to be flat.
Skill Builder I meant to say plywood. Sorry!
You shouldn't need to use a straight edge for the cut. Just scribe using the header join on your scribe board. ensure your blade is tight against the header join and you will get it dean on, with no issues. install the last plank of the row (before the cut) and then scribe cut the plank you've just installed, take it out and replace it. Saves time trying to line two up (over a large area, saves ALOT of time) and ensure you get the plank dead on where you need it. You'll also find cutting karndean 10 times easier with a concave knife blade, not a straight. take the edge off before laying it with a block plane, also. if you're not handy with a Stanley you will risk cutting yourself.
Also, when scribing in the length of the board, scribe the wall using a 30 cm cut off of board. You can't scribe in a long plank, using a straight edge, on a bent wall.....
just some tips :)
thanks for the tips. it all helps
Hi Robert
I am making a new video for Karndean on Monday and I will incorporate your tips. Concave blades and replacing the last whole board. How do you avoid marking the board next to it when you cut?
coretec flooring
Robert Jones l
what colour did you use here please ? Also , can a damp proof membrane be used underneath it on cement floor . Do all lower kitchen cabinets have to be removed to install ? Or can adhesive be used used ?
It looks great in your photo. What is the name of the one you are putting in? I have gone to their loose-lay floor selections, but couldn't figure out which one you used.
Question- If installing in the kitchen you cant just slide the refrigerator out right? Still have to use 1/4" luan plywood?
Do you mean to protect the floor? It is tough but it does scratch. You can lift the sections out if you like.
Ok, thanks!
Does it scratch easy?
Not easily but it will scratch if you drag metal feet over it.
@@SkillBuilder thank you.
I have a vinyl flooring already. I need Kardean Van Gogh. Do I need to take Vinyl off for the Kardean to go in?
It would be worth asking Karndean. If it is stuck down then there Palio Clic should be good but check with them,
Excellent video! Can you show us how to cut a corner?
Hi Peter
Yes I can and will. Do you want external corners etc?
Brilliant, thank you. Really helpful
Glad it was helpful!
arent you meant to leave an expansion gap under skirts?
Not with this flooring. It is designed to fit tight.
so it doesnt get glued down?
Do you glue down every piece of just the perimeter?
Just the perimeter and it is only tacifier so it can be lifted later.
does it not expand and contract?
apparently not. The GRP core is stable and the vinyl face is not a problem.
Excellent video, honest and informative, thank you.
what colour is that karndean plank
Thanks for sharing your experience.....
I think it add's only half of the blade thickness... assuming the cutting edge is in the middle of the blade. =)
Looks like a fantastic product.. I wonder if it is as affordable as laminate.
You may well be right but they are thick blades. I don't like those thin bendy ones. It sounds like a tiny amount but I have tried it both ways and you can see the difference.
He Ka
I have just been playing around with three place mats on the dinner table and it seems to me that my initial statement about the thickness of the blade might be correct. Give it a try and let me know what you think. Two half thicknesses
Skill Builder I'm afraid I don't got the equipment to do the experiment =D I just figured that if the blade is resting against a fence and the actual cutting edge cuts at the center point of the blade. Then it must "add" just one half of the blade thickness... but I guess soft materials may flex and stretch.
O.K somebody else take this up. It isn't to do with stretch. Just lay a couple of CD cases as I laid the tiles and see how the cut point alters. Use a third CD case as the knife to make it easier to measure. Lay them on a bit of paper and mark them. Moving the cut line as I did gives you the thickness of the CD case not half of it. This sort of thing drives me nuts so I need to know. I need closure..
Skill Builder Well.. this is literally splitting hairs =P
When you put the second CD case against the first one, it doesn't move the cutting line at all. Then you put your knife-CD case against the second CD case and start cutting.
The actual cutting edge of the knife-CD case is in the middle of the knife-CD cases edge? Not on one side or the other?
Am I making any sense here xD ???!
Well in any case the cut you make with the knife is forming on the center of the blade. So I think this action adds just half of the thickness.
PS:
I'm truly sorry, but I have a hard time trying to explain this sort of technical stuff. My native language being something completely different than English. =D
in 2019 are you still a fan of loose lay after probably hearing back from customers who had it installed (not necessarily by you) or prefer the click systems despite being a bit more involved for a noob home owner DIY? thanks
Great. Nicely done. I make similar videos in Hindi Indian Language. You have done very nicely. Keep up.
I have well laid floor tiles in hall and kitchen, would I need to use self levelling compound
If you are using Palio Core you can lay on tiles but the other Karndean products will telegraph through so you will see the grout lines. The self leveller or filler on the grout lines will help.
Super helpful, thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice one.👍
Thank you
Great video most helpful
Id say I like solid wood to be honest and the price of that stuff is the same, ok easy to fit, but you cant beat a solid floor for look and feel. :)
I agree with you the natural product is nicer but upstairs Karndean is a lot quieter and the areas of wear that occur with solid wood, in a kitchen for example, are hard to deal with.
This is waterproof though!
Thank you much !
For others, apparently concave blades work better.
very usefull thanks
What model Karndean is that floor?
Loose Lay
As always good video
Thanks Sam. I laboured the point but that is me
Would it not be easier to use linoleum or vinyl on a roll?
Thomas
Sheet vinyl needs to be stuck down and you need a roller and a very good eye for cutting it in. I would never attempt it but this is easy. If you mess one plank up you can change it for another.
To move vinyl on a roll is quite heavy, unforgiving and you can never do it alone.
Vinyl does not look or feel good to walk on compared to this. This is thick stuff.
Hop them don’t need any access to them floor boards now levelled over.
You can get to the floors from the eaves cupboards. The cables and pipes are not joined under the floors. That said you can still cut out a board in the usual way. Plenty of people close in floors.
Brilliant !!!
And that is why you shouldn`t let inexperienced bodgers loose on something they should stay well clear of! Like he says, "If it`s not your game don`t do it"
Those hardboard planks are for scribing
Just use stick down i have seen numerous jobs laid in this product that have all failed.
The manufacturer does say to use adhesive if your room is longer than 13ft. What kind of stick down do you use?
Usually, I watch your videos carefully. This time I got impatient: just treat the vinyl like a tile ad cut it accordingly. Never seen so much faffing.
OH Jane you are in such a hurry, slow down and you will speed up
14:50
lol
heringbone tomorrow
I'm an approved Karndean installer and this stuff is absolute crap
why?
Ditto, it`s garbage, does not stay put. I did a small kitchen and the tiles moved around, eventually I rang Karndean and they said they`d had numerous problems with it slipping so I was advised to stick it down. Never used it again, pointless crap!!
I have 45 years in the flooring trade.
When you say it "moved" do you mean the individual tiles would pop up or the whole floor would shift? I read that unlike laminate, this floor has to be installed "super tight" not to move. I have been given an extremely high quote to do a glue down install LVT Karndean (on a cement slab) and part of the estimated cost may be that the floor has to be sealed because it has a high moisture content.
The tiles moved around.
Re: your install.
It will need a DPM (Damp proof membrane) This is not an expensive job at all so don`t let them rip you off. I`ve seen quotes of several hundred pounds when it should be around £100 for a standard lounge.
steve lane
The jobs I have done have been really good. It is tight so it has nowhere to move to and doesn't lift. Sound insulation on foot traffic is also impressive, way better than timber. There is a tacifier for the perimeter strips and you can use it across the whole floor but I didn't bother.
So slow i fell asleep
Glad to know it helped
You must have picked the ugliest design to show on youtube
Beauty, what knows you of beauty? It lies in the eye of the beholder.
@@SkillBuilder digging in are we
keep talking i need the sleep
I get the same soothing feeling from your wife's voice.
hate this stuff ,the thin locking system breaks, go for glue down everytime ,its a bastard to fit, and you can easily lift up the glue down planks
locking system ? what locking system ?
@@patrickwilson7309 There isn't one. It appears LoOperJump read the title and open his mouth. I'm quite certain that he's never installed LooseLay, but knows it sucks :)
The whole job he cut corners... job sucks. He laid it tight to the baseboard 👻
Kathryn
If you took the time to watch the video before you comment you would find that this floor is made for a tight fit, no expansion gaps and Karndean gave us a master class on how to fit it and they have approved the technical content.
Kathryn you are an idiot
kathryn liu lol it needs to be tight, this isn’t timber floors.
Shows you don't know squat kathryn. This job does NOT suck and done to manufactures instructions. This is "lose lay LVT". Go back in the kitchen now and fetch me my dinner. After you get my dinner I will give you a lesson on sucking. And you had to edit two sentences? Definitely above your skill level. Stick to what your good at...cooking, cleaning and sucking.