The immensely thick battery cover is an air duct, and on mine it has an aluminium foil sheet *next to the battery*, I don't know how close to the terminals.. So be sure to set that red cover back in place to isolate. On mine that red cover sat on the minus side... But thanks for the video! I had the fear that all settings, keys and whatnot would be lost on battery change. Allegedly nowadays you loosen the minus side to make the car powerless, bc "unknown independent systems" can have capacitors etc (suppose you have an 1F capacitor to your sub amp...) so that the plus cable would have "back voltage" when loose, which a minus terminal won't. Given this, maybe you attach plus first. And thus *don't* ground a free plus cable.
Bump. Wondering if anyone has insight on this? My dealer got wind that I was going to change my battery myself and starting saying how if it's not done right, I could short the car, blow pre fuses, and cause $2-3k damage... to convince me to accept their $700 battery replacement charge, vs the $200 if I do it myself. Wondering about these details - ie order of disconnects/reconnects and likelihood of causing problems.
So after some internet searches the order is : disconnect - neg first then pos. Reconnect - pos first then neg. The reason is primarily safety as if you short the battery you are in big trouble. But don’t take my word for it - do your due diligence and research the details yourself. But the vid would be wrong when they say to reconnect with neg first.
Thanks for your interest in our tools! The focus of our channel is to empower you with the knowledge and tools to carry out your own car repairs. The wrench used is typically found in any standard toolset, however, the magic lies in correctly diagnosing issues with modern cars. For this, our YOUCANIC Full System Scanner is a great help. Learn more about it here: www.youcanic.com/scanner. Additionally, for a minimal charge, we provide access to Factory Repair Manuals and Torque Specs to ensure tasks are accomplished accurately. Visit www.youcanic.com/manuals to get started. We're all about giving the power back to the car owners!
Thanks for reaching out! At YOUCANIC, our goal is to equip car owners like you with the tools and knowledge to confidently perform your own diagnostics and repairs, just like a professional mechanic. Our key resource is the YOUCANIC Full System Scanner, a comprehensive tool for diagnosing your car's issues (www.youcanic.com/scanner). In addition, we offer resources like OEM Factory Repair Manuals and a platform to ask car-related questions (www.youcanic.com). If you have any other queries or need further guidance, don't lose a moment to ask. We aim to make car repairs understandable and accessible for all!
I did not have to reset anything, plug and play... Thank you for your video, really helped a lot!
Do you have to reset anything after? Thanks for video
The immensely thick battery cover is an air duct, and on mine it has an aluminium foil sheet *next to the battery*, I don't know how close to the terminals.. So be sure to set that red cover back in place to isolate.
On mine that red cover sat on the minus side...
But thanks for the video! I had the fear that all settings, keys and whatnot would be lost on battery change.
Allegedly nowadays you loosen the minus side to make the car powerless, bc "unknown independent systems" can have capacitors etc (suppose you have an 1F capacitor to your sub amp...) so that the plus cable would have "back voltage" when loose, which a minus terminal won't. Given this, maybe you attach plus first.
And thus *don't* ground a free plus cable.
Whats the size of the Batterie A / AH?
Great video bro 😎
good video, thanks
What terminal to take 1st? Negative then positive? And to reinstall positive 1st then negative?
Bump. Wondering if anyone has insight on this? My dealer got wind that I was going to change my battery myself and starting saying how if it's not done right, I could short the car, blow pre fuses, and cause $2-3k damage... to convince me to accept their $700 battery replacement charge, vs the $200 if I do it myself. Wondering about these details - ie order of disconnects/reconnects and likelihood of causing problems.
So after some internet searches the order is : disconnect - neg first then pos. Reconnect - pos first then neg. The reason is primarily safety as if you short the battery you are in big trouble. But don’t take my word for it - do your due diligence and research the details yourself. But the vid would be wrong when they say to reconnect with neg first.
Is that a (red) vent tube on the left side of the battery?
Yes it is on passenger side and driver side is plugged.
Where do you get that wrench
Thanks for your interest in our tools! The focus of our channel is to empower you with the knowledge and tools to carry out your own car repairs. The wrench used is typically found in any standard toolset, however, the magic lies in correctly diagnosing issues with modern cars. For this, our YOUCANIC Full System Scanner is a great help. Learn more about it here: www.youcanic.com/scanner.
Additionally, for a minimal charge, we provide access to Factory Repair Manuals and Torque Specs to ensure tasks are accomplished accurately. Visit www.youcanic.com/manuals to get started. We're all about giving the power back to the car owners!
Thanks
Thanks for reaching out! At YOUCANIC, our goal is to equip car owners like you with the tools and knowledge to confidently perform your own diagnostics and repairs, just like a professional mechanic. Our key resource is the YOUCANIC Full System Scanner, a comprehensive tool for diagnosing your car's issues (www.youcanic.com/scanner).
In addition, we offer resources like OEM Factory Repair Manuals and a platform to ask car-related questions (www.youcanic.com). If you have any other queries or need further guidance, don't lose a moment to ask. We aim to make car repairs understandable and accessible for all!