Twenty years later: Quinn you are a legend of machining in the 21st century but everyone has the same question. Why is it always 0.165 reamed holes in your projects? You have almost single handedly established it as a machining standard. What motivated you? Quinn: Spite.
...and due to the ubiquity of everyone now using 0.165, it is the cheapest reamer made and is often included in the tooling included with the purchase of hobby-scale milling machines
I found the series and channel at ep 2 or 3, just looked back and it’s been TWO YEARS since Quinn started this project. Time is fake it has not felt like I’ve been watching this series the day a new upload is out for almost 2 years, can not wait to see it in steam
Isn't it nice how Quinn deliberately makes that scrapped part for testing future operations, but with typical humility, pretends to make it look like a mistake so those of us less accomplished don't feel so bad when we inevitably muck it up. :-)
Often while watching a machining video I -- incorrectly, needless to say -- think to myself, This looks like fun, I could do that! Videos like this one perform a valuable service because: no, I could not do that. At all.
Great video, Quinn. You always share such valuable information. I love that you share mistakes as well. I have seen all your videos and I have learned so much from them over the last few years. They have given me the confidence to finally machine my own wobbler steam engine on a mini lathe and mini mill, and it works! Thank you for all the work you put into these videos!
9:30 (or so) Kozo's drawing wouldn't pass engineering review where I work (provided that the reviewers were sharp enough to catch it). They'd require critical dimensions of that bore and shoulders to be measured from the same datum, rather than in three increments - including one reverse one. (Then Manufacturing can do order of operations however they please, provided they hit those final numbers). The implied datum of the 3/8 thickness of the part would be a "no go". And that's why I, a lowly enginerd, am allowed only to submit a sketch, and leave dimensioning and tolerancing to a draughtsman. (Well, that and union rules.)
You are correct This drawing is bad. That feature is double diminished. Can’t do that. It’s either .115 or .260 can’t be both. Plus fractions or decimals, pick ONE!
two of the greatest quotes I ever read were from the hitchhikers guide to the galaxy and went something like this "I'd rather be happy than right" and "kudos to Guy Fawkes ... the only man to enter parliament with a mind to make things better" best wishes and to finish a life lesson some you win some you LEARN no education is free so you can ONLY lose when you LEARN nothing from the experience! even just not what to do in future! best wishes and have a great day :)
Yeehaw... seeing how this is made for a small-scale locomotive makes me appreciate the big ones more - wow! What a pain. Looks like they came out great though so far. On the full scale locomotives, the piston rod is a taper fit held in with another slotted tapered key, and I believe the wrist pin is also a taper fit though I could be full of it as usual. :D
Always super impressed at how clever these parts are made. Always learn something, in this case using the lathe for what I would have thought was a mill operation. Well done Quinn!
Yes, you’ve got two turntables and a microphone 😎 Beck would be proud! 12:50 Wonderful visual pun, you must be channeling an Old Tony! I’ve been subscribed for years, really enjoy your content. Good luck with your channel and projects! Happy Holidays to you and family! Thanks for including mistakes, it helps us mere mortals to persevere.
Well done as always. Even though I don't really care about steam engines I find myself watching every video on this build like a kid watching the sunday morning cartoons. Sometimes the hardest part of the job is understanding the drawings. My preferred method is to model everything in CAD and make my own drawings even though it takes a lot of work. This is especially valuable when working on projects without full instructions (like the Bonelle tool grinder I'm working on), but even with good instructions it's helpful to see the part in 3D before you start making chips.
Nice work on the crossheads, Quinn! Beautifully done. I had a couple of takes on these parts myself. There are so many steps, it's hard not to monkey one of them up! As for the 0.165" reamer, I figured that was actually 4.2mm and bought a 4.2mm reamer, which wasn't that expensive. On the plus side, now you've got a beautiful 0.165" reamer to add to your collection! All I've got is a metric reamer that I won't use for any future project. But I now have a few metric reamers since Kozo used 9mm and 10mm reamers for some of the running gear. Looking forward to the exciting conclusion of the Crosshead chapter of your wonderful build! Thanks Quinn!
You lost me at the "zero internal radius part". I will have to watch that part a few more times to digest it completely! Absolutely amazing machine work!
Consider using the mill on a block of metal. Now with an end mill, plunge in and make a rectangular pocket, in the same plane as the table. Easy right? except you haven't. Zoom into the corners of the rectangle and you'll notice that your round end mill has left rounded corners. No matter how small an end mill you use, you can't make a perfect 90° angle that way. The internal corners will always have a radius to them. I hope that helps, and apologise in advance if it confuses you further.
Wow. That was complicated. And well done! Very smart of you to make that test piece and pretend it was a mistake. Yeah, ok, I know. Because shut up. I still laugh at that each time. Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
The time and ingenuity that is being invested in this fascinating project is truly staggering! Like WOW! It makes me wonder... a) How many people have purchased Kozo's book? b) How many people start working on the project, but then give up? c) How many successfully complete the engine and get it running?
Great job on a trying pair of parts! I would have lived with the 0.3xmm error... The crossheads on my mogul are the same. They were made as a mirrored pair too, out of a block of cast iron. They do not have the square corners on the inside pocket, just rounded from the endmill. And yes, I also have that funny looking tool for grinding the boss :) All went well until I pressed the piston rod in (not threaded) and the boss cracked! I turned it down and loctited a steel sleeve over it. It is not noticeable has stood up to use.
Another great video. If you are curious about other alternatives to connecting rod + wrist pins or cross slides, you might look up rhombic drives and scotch yokes. All of them used on steam, and sometimes IC engines. Also, the Watt parallel motion and sun-and-planet gears have a fan club.
Quinn the crosshead is a multiple jokers. Much less friction from piston skirt as it is hardly there Stroke vs bore is massive so the conrod can’t be in the liner. My latest engine had 3,7m stroke an only 0,8m bore
Did you know that you could work harden Aluminum? If you have a slightly undersized hole you can use a harder material mandrel to bring it too size and work harden it in the same process. It work hardens very fast though... Some practice is recommended.
I always eBay one-off tools like that reamer. I take a little loss on it, but I consider it the rental fee. Saves me the burden of storing it physically.. and mentally.
With a little luck you can find someone else building one of these engines and sell them that reamer and the tool you ground at the end. Well, quite a lot of luck, but here’s hoping.
I suppose there is a good reason for that dimension being such an oddball size... But I can't imagine why one couldn't get away with a few thou larger or smaller for what seems to be ultimately a pivot pin. Does anyone know why it absolutely needed to be .419?
To save myself the ridiculous price of a 0.165" reamer I decided to substitute it for a 4mm reamer with matching components. I believe the original drawings were metric so I have proceeded to make my attempt as mostly metric.
I realise that bitterness (if not feigned) may still be active, and therefore this may not be welcome; but… Given that you’re making the mating parts, why not choose to oversize the wrist pins/holes to 11/64” which is presumably a considerably less spendy reamer, and only a .007” increase?
As an occasional viewer I often wonder what Quinn is even building. Some kind of model train? And why? (presumed as a hobby) What book/manual is she referring to in this vid? I read the video description & checked her website and no answer was obvious. I also read her FAQ. Can anyone inform me?
@@Blondihacks Thanks. I was able to find the playlist by searching your TH-cam playlists; I'll go watch video 1. But the playlist is _not_ linked anywhere in the video that I could find.
The engine she's building is indeed a train locomotive. The Pennsylvania A3 Switcher to be precisely. And the book is a combination plans/instructions/manual written by Kozo Hiraoka.
All I saw was a pre part off cut to relieve stress in the stock before you drilled to ensure your hole tracked as straight as possible. I wouldn't beat yourself up on the goof, as a machinist by profession that drawing isn't great and I would dare say if a person could easily easily make that mistake then it's the drawing, not the machinist.
For someone who's watching this for entertainment and has no machining knowledge or expertise - can "zero internal radius" be explained a bit? I tried a google and all it's showing me is the kitchen sink! I can see why the thing would be hard to machine, but the terminology for it isn't clicking for me!
I don't know your opinion on YTs auto translation for video title and description and/or the (imo horrible) AI generated translated audio tracks, but I'd like to ask you consider disabling them.
Blondihacks, what set numbers are your snap gages and your depth gages sets? I was looking at the Pateron list and was wondering that ordering system are they in? Great video content Ralph 😃😃
Twenty years later:
Quinn you are a legend of machining in the 21st century but everyone has the same question. Why is it always 0.165 reamed holes in your projects? You have almost single handedly established it as a machining standard. What motivated you?
Quinn: Spite.
😂
...and due to the ubiquity of everyone now using 0.165, it is the cheapest reamer made and is often included in the tooling included with the purchase of hobby-scale milling machines
I found the series and channel at ep 2 or 3, just looked back and it’s been TWO YEARS since Quinn started this project. Time is fake it has not felt like I’ve been watching this series the day a new upload is out for almost 2 years, can not wait to see it in steam
As a watchmaker, Time is absolutely fake
Isn't it nice how Quinn deliberately makes that scrapped part for testing future operations, but with typical humility, pretends to make it look like a mistake so those of us less accomplished don't feel so bad when we inevitably muck it up. :-)
I love how you inset an isometric view of the part you are working on!
I love that you include your screw-ups. Not only riveting, but also educational.
it also really adds to the suspense when you're not sure if a part will be good or not 😂
Often while watching a machining video I -- incorrectly, needless to say -- think to myself, This looks like fun, I could do that! Videos like this one perform a valuable service because: no, I could not do that. At all.
living in Finland I am glad that I get to see this video 12 minutes after you posted it LoL
Hyvää huomenta! World gets smaller by the day!
🇫🇮
Especially with recent Internet cable issues!
Great video, Quinn. You always share such valuable information. I love that you share mistakes as well. I have seen all your videos and I have learned so much from them over the last few years. They have given me the confidence to finally machine my own wobbler steam engine on a mini lathe and mini mill, and it works! Thank you for all the work you put into these videos!
9:30 (or so) Kozo's drawing wouldn't pass engineering review where I work (provided that the reviewers were sharp enough to catch it). They'd require critical dimensions of that bore and shoulders to be measured from the same datum, rather than in three increments - including one reverse one. (Then Manufacturing can do order of operations however they please, provided they hit those final numbers). The implied datum of the 3/8 thickness of the part would be a "no go".
And that's why I, a lowly enginerd, am allowed only to submit a sketch, and leave dimensioning and tolerancing to a draughtsman. (Well, that and union rules.)
You are correct This drawing is bad. That feature is double diminished. Can’t do that. It’s either .115 or .260 can’t be both.
Plus fractions or decimals, pick ONE!
@@Bob-pe7cy fractions and decimals are frequently both on the same part, as a fraction number is a much lower tolerance than a decimal one
two of the greatest quotes I ever read were from the hitchhikers guide to the galaxy and went something like this
"I'd rather be happy than right"
and "kudos to Guy Fawkes ... the only man to enter parliament with a mind to make things better"
best wishes and to finish a life lesson
some you win some you LEARN
no education is free so you can ONLY lose when you LEARN nothing from the experience!
even just not what to do in future!
best wishes and have a great day :)
My Saturday morning is now complete!
Awesome work, and as always awesome narration and humor.
Yeehaw... seeing how this is made for a small-scale locomotive makes me appreciate the big ones more - wow! What a pain. Looks like they came out great though so far.
On the full scale locomotives, the piston rod is a taper fit held in with another slotted tapered key, and I believe the wrist pin is also a taper fit though I could be full of it as usual. :D
Imagine being able to watch Michelangelo sculpt David. With voice over. We are so lucky to be alive at the same time this engine is being built. X
I have the Kozo book for the New Shay and the reminder to follow his steps very closely is a good reminder.
I also loved the reference to Mr. Crispin!
Never thought about how complicated the crosshead sliders really were. Thanks for showing us.
Really neat looking parts and some very impressive machining!
Always super impressed at how clever these parts are made. Always learn something, in this case using the lathe for what I would have thought was a mill operation. Well done Quinn!
Yes, you’ve got two turntables and a microphone 😎 Beck would be proud! 12:50 Wonderful visual pun, you must be channeling an Old Tony! I’ve been subscribed for years, really enjoy your content. Good luck with your channel and projects! Happy Holidays to you and family! Thanks for including mistakes, it helps us mere mortals to persevere.
Well done as always. Even though I don't really care about steam engines I find myself watching every video on this build like a kid watching the sunday morning cartoons.
Sometimes the hardest part of the job is understanding the drawings. My preferred method is to model everything in CAD and make my own drawings even though it takes a lot of work.
This is especially valuable when working on projects without full instructions (like the Bonelle tool grinder I'm working on), but even with good instructions it's helpful to see the part in 3D before you start making chips.
Yes and for those of us without a machine shop, producing 100% accurate virtual models is a very satisfying end in itself.
I don't know that I'd ever get this far into hobby machining but being able to fabricate useful for around the house, garage, and garden sounds fun.
Seems like you should consider contributing to Inheritance Machining’s “Box of Shame” 😂
Thx Quinn, learning new things is always exciting.😁
Nice work on the crossheads, Quinn! Beautifully done. I had a couple of takes on these parts myself. There are so many steps, it's hard not to monkey one of them up! As for the 0.165" reamer, I figured that was actually 4.2mm and bought a 4.2mm reamer, which wasn't that expensive. On the plus side, now you've got a beautiful 0.165" reamer to add to your collection! All I've got is a metric reamer that I won't use for any future project. But I now have a few metric reamers since Kozo used 9mm and 10mm reamers for some of the running gear. Looking forward to the exciting conclusion of the Crosshead chapter of your wonderful build! Thanks Quinn!
Yah, I bought a basic set of metric reamers as well, since it’s clear he used metric sizes for a bunch of things and converted for the book. 😄
I can't WAIT to see this engine chuffing down the tracks:)
Very impressive machining and outstanding finish. :)
You do great work , really look forward to Saturday , to watch your videos , thank you Quinn
"I'm sure that's the last thing that will go wrong" and then the Morrigan crows to let you know that there will be more issues.
Thanks Quinn
Say the line, Bart!
12:09
YEAH! 🍾 🪅 🥳 🎊
Great video Quinn, looking forward to part 2/53.
Tack!
Thanks!
Very nice cross heads , glad you used the scrap part. I'm sure Sprocket agrees.
You lost me at the "zero internal radius part". I will have to watch that part a few more times to digest it completely! Absolutely amazing machine work!
Consider using the mill on a block of metal. Now with an end mill, plunge in and make a rectangular pocket, in the same plane as the table. Easy right? except you haven't. Zoom into the corners of the rectangle and you'll notice that your round end mill has left rounded corners. No matter how small an end mill you use, you can't make a perfect 90° angle that way. The internal corners will always have a radius to them.
I hope that helps, and apologise in advance if it confuses you further.
Wonderful video, thanks Quinn, helps a lot!
Beautiful! And thanks for your very last words. I'm not a good waiter.
Wow.
That was complicated.
And well done!
Very smart of you to make that test piece and pretend it was a mistake. Yeah, ok, I know. Because shut up. I still laugh at that each time.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
"They're already cool-lookin' parts"
Yes, we'll all agree with that statement
Great machine work on those parts.
The time and ingenuity that is being invested in this fascinating project is truly staggering! Like WOW! It makes me wonder... a) How many people have purchased Kozo's book? b) How many people start working on the project, but then give up? c) How many successfully complete the engine and get it running?
Great job on a trying pair of parts! I would have lived with the 0.3xmm error...
The crossheads on my mogul are the same. They were made as a mirrored pair too, out of a block of cast iron. They do not have the square corners on the inside pocket, just rounded from the endmill. And yes, I also have that funny looking tool for grinding the boss :)
All went well until I pressed the piston rod in (not threaded) and the boss cracked! I turned it down and loctited a steel sleeve over it. It is not noticeable has stood up to use.
Love that Sherlock Holmes moment with the magnifying glass 😅
Another great video. If you are curious about other alternatives to connecting rod + wrist pins or cross slides, you might look up rhombic drives and scotch yokes. All of them used on steam, and sometimes IC engines. Also, the Watt parallel motion and sun-and-planet gears have a fan club.
Am I the only person waiting for Quinn to add "Clarence" when she utters "clearance?"
I'm on the same vector, Victor.
Great work.
3:01 Nevermore...
Love me a good train-build video
Quins da best!
Nice work.
Your videos are always so fantastic! Your editing is always on point and your humor is refreshing. Quinn, can I ask what your day job is?
Software.
The "Final Boss" is supposed to be challenging.
Quinn the crosshead is a multiple jokers.
Much less friction from piston skirt as it is hardly there
Stroke vs bore is massive so the conrod can’t be in the liner.
My latest engine had 3,7m stroke an only 0,8m bore
Did you know that you could work harden Aluminum? If you have a slightly undersized hole you can use a harder material mandrel to bring it too size and work harden it in the same process. It work hardens very fast though... Some practice is recommended.
I was going through withdrawals waiting for this video. I could tell this was a difficult process because of the lack of whitey sarcasm.
Autocorrupt has misspelled witty.
I always eBay one-off tools like that reamer. I take a little loss on it, but I consider it the rental fee. Saves me the burden of storing it physically.. and mentally.
Was waiting for this
First?
@@blackoak4978 and second, seems like
@@rodfreylol
@@blackoak4978Offensichtlich
Don't actually care about being first, I was just surprised, lol
I hope Sprocket's ears have recovered from the 🙊🙉 'test part' 😂
Where do you buy your patience and how much does it cost? Is it a proprietary purchase? Thanks.
I'm a pretty lazy guy so I would have soldered a shim to that part to bring it to thickness.
With a little luck you can find someone else building one of these engines and sell them that reamer and the tool you ground at the end. Well, quite a lot of luck, but here’s hoping.
I suppose there is a good reason for that dimension being such an oddball size... But
I can't imagine why one couldn't get away with a few thou larger or smaller for what seems to be ultimately a pivot pin.
Does anyone know why it absolutely needed to be .419?
That note on the order of operations diagram was originally scrawled in the margin of a script for a Chuck Norris movie.
To save myself the ridiculous price of a 0.165" reamer I decided to substitute it for a 4mm reamer with matching components. I believe the original drawings were metric so I have proceeded to make my attempt as mostly metric.
LBSC gave ideas for odd sized limited use reamers you could make yourself from silver steel.
Wow!!!!
🙌
On that reamer, could you have adjusted the hole size? that is, was it vital that it be those sizes?
I wondered the same thing, especially if it was a matter of tenths of a thousandths of an inch.
I would have, or made the reamer from drill rod as a last resort. Kozo does not make things easy.
Yay!
12:45 - I hope you had your hat on backwards when you did that 😀
The Crows tried to warn you..
Two heads are indeed better than one.
Hey Quin!! Would a cup grinder be useful for matching the heights of the silversoldered pieces to the main partsm
Красота!
With some trepidation and some trepanation, am I right?
👍😎
You didn't scrape a part. You made a prototype😆 Or as my mentor would say. "Great Dress Rehearsal "
Any chance that .165 reamer stems from a 4.2mm hole for M5? That doesn’t make _much_ sense but it’s the only thing that makes any sense.
I realise that bitterness (if not feigned) may still be active, and therefore this may not be welcome; but…
Given that you’re making the mating parts, why not choose to oversize the wrist pins/holes to 11/64” which is presumably a considerably less spendy reamer, and only a .007” increase?
❤️🔥
15:22 oh, now i can see what is going on
Part 52 (part 1).
Why is it that the vast majority of all our machines make round holes and all designers just seem to love square features?
The record scratch got me 🤣
🐦⬛
My tolerance for all dimensions is 0 !
Reamer Rental LLC
Hmmmm, reading my 5 year old his bedtime stories or watch this..... 🤔
watch it with you kid.
As an occasional viewer I often wonder what Quinn is even building. Some kind of model train?
And why? (presumed as a hobby)
What book/manual is she referring to in this vid?
I read the video description & checked her website and no answer was obvious. I also read her FAQ. Can anyone inform me?
Try clicking on the playlist that is linked in every single video in this series. All is explained
@@Blondihacks Thanks. I was able to find the playlist by searching your TH-cam playlists; I'll go watch video 1. But the playlist is _not_ linked anywhere in the video that I could find.
The engine she's building is indeed a train locomotive.
The Pennsylvania A3 Switcher to be precisely.
And the book is a combination plans/instructions/manual written by Kozo Hiraoka.
The playlist is linked at the end of every single video. There’s a great big box that says “Playlist”.
All I saw was a pre part off cut to relieve stress in the stock before you drilled to ensure your hole tracked as straight as possible. I wouldn't beat yourself up on the goof, as a machinist by profession that drawing isn't great and I would dare say if a person could easily easily make that mistake then it's the drawing, not the machinist.
For someone who's watching this for entertainment and has no machining knowledge or expertise - can "zero internal radius" be explained a bit? I tried a google and all it's showing me is the kitchen sink! I can see why the thing would be hard to machine, but the terminology for it isn't clicking for me!
I don't know your opinion on YTs auto translation for video title and description and/or the (imo horrible) AI generated translated audio tracks, but I'd like to ask you consider disabling them.
You make the most interesting mistakes.
Good video Blondihacks
Blondihacks, what set numbers are your snap gages and your depth gages sets? I was looking at the Pateron list and was wondering that ordering system are they in? Great video content Ralph
😃😃