Make a Tap Follower
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ย. 2016
- I Make a Tap Follower.
This is a fun easy project especially for a minilathe beginner.
Try it yourself or come up with an even better design.
Its definitely a handy tool to have around the workshop. You just need some scrap steel and a nice stiff spring. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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A T handled tap wrench works well with your follower.
Nice idea. I will probably need to make a holder for my tap wrench as well.
Thanks for posting these informative videos.
Hello there Sir John
Yes. Definitely a Thumbs up on this one as well. Like the other viewers said, will also chime in and reiterate that the small Tool to hold the Tap Wrench is brilliant. Superb. One of those......."now why didn't I think of that" brain waves.
Thanks a zillion for showing and sharing.
Much appreciated or Muchas Gracias as others would say.
ATB
aRM
I enjoy your videos. Great adapter for the tap follower. If the spring is strong enough it should be a useful tool. Keep machining.
Nice vid and good tool John.
fantastic - thank you for posting!
Great one day project I might have to get my finger out and do one too. I like the music edit and the accessories you made, I reckon it will be useful.
Bundy Bears Shed thanks for watching Bundy!
hi John i was just looking at new subscribers to my channel and saw you had videos love that idea for making taps that don't have a center in them fit in the spring center definitely a thumbs up and a subscription from me . looks like i see lots of familiar faces in the comments to lol Emma and Phil that means you.
I like the addition to hold the tap wrench - I really need to get on and make a follower. sub'd All the best Mat
yeah I am thinking that since all my taps have either a point on the end, or a hole, as he mentioned, I could definitely use a modded version of that wrench holder to be a die holder :)
this is something that seems like an outer sleeve that is ultra tight but made of UHMW-PE or teflon, and fits into a slightly larger steel tube, to go around your pin, would be quite useful, either that or preloading recirculating bearings like they use for some linear bearings, to get a super tight but smoothly actuating motion, if one were that worried about super ultra straight smooth thread cutting action, :) (yes I have a problem with over engineering everything LOL) Thanks for showing this, too. seeing someone investigate, and make a lot of stuff I have not been able to find details on in the past, this channel of yours is quite a refreshing bit of reel here. :) got a sub there from me :)
looks pretty ok to me. good video too.
I edited out the dancing.
Brilliant video do you have the long cross slide on that ml7 ?
Yes, I picked it up on EBay. It's a great improvement to the lathe!
nicely done.
Subscribed
Thanks Phil.
I learn a lot with each attempt.
Nice job!
Thanks for watching!
Good job, just subscribed.
Thanks Lee!
Hey I went to send you some stickers yesterday along with a bunch of other letters.
When I got back I found the envelope sitting on my desk. I must have dropped it and someone at my work did the good deed of returning it to me!
That was pretty lucky!!!
I'll put them in the next batch of post.
Cheers, John.
I bought a Browne & Sharp 'one of these'. It has a pointy end and and the other end is a concave bit that fits taps that don't have a 'pilot hole'. Well, it was good price and I needed one quickly - your transfer screws, though, will definitely be made up, as a set. This sounds like a good way to put my LYLAK lathe to good use.
Yeah I think the one mrPete222 made is a better design anyway. There’s a bit too much play in mine.
@@CreaseysWorkshop Ah, John, I think is terrific, and its something that I can do; besides I haven't seen mrPete222's effort
@@donpollard9460 Thanks Don!
Hi John!
That's a nice project! Busy making mine as we speak! Do the taps without holes in the back have a taper ground onto the back? If so, you need to make your follower with a centre-drilled hole intead of a point. You could also make a double-sided shaft with a point on one side, and a hollow on the other. This would obviate the need for machining extra part, which might also introduce more error in concentricity. It's normally the smaller size taps which have this taper ground on them. From about 8mm they have the hole in the back!
Regards,
Mike
I don’t think I have ever used it actually.
@@CreaseysWorkshop
Ha, ha! Yes! I just made one based on Quinn Dunki's double-ended design. I found it a good learning curve, but using the centre-drilled end does not work, because once it's in the tap wrench, it can't engage the tap follower. Bit of a useless tool...
Hi there
I see you have the myford long cross slide.
How long is it, I can’t find out the exact length from anyone including myford.
Steve
I am traveling at the moment so I can’t check till I get back in about a week.
Hi there John that would be great. Thanks steve
John, just an irrelevant question... What's the music playing along the video? It sounds nice...
Thanks Nick!
I found the tune in TH-cams free music section.
It i s called "Ether".
Duh... I feel stupid though I still can't find it!
Hi Nick, go here: th-cam.com/users/audiolibrarymusic
And search for Ether
Why not make a second one, with a 90 degree (inclusive angle) hole in the end of the spring loaded spindle, for the other kind of tap?
Adam Booth has a very neat solution for making something like that. In practice I normally just put the tap in a T type tap handle that has a centre hole in the back of it.
@@CreaseysWorkshop Assuming you have a suitably sized T-Bar tap handle.