I just want to say that this video was very informative. I follwed your guide to a T.... And soon as i took off the clam shell. Upper intake , lo and behold both levers on the IMRC box were completely off. Rotted grommets. I replaced them and engine runs smooth again. It completely resolved my error codes. . Thank you
I'm very glad that my video helped! I do my own work and take the time to film it, hoping that it will shed light on the same issues for others. When I get feedback like this, it's all worth it. I appreciate your comments and wish you well!
I’ve never been good at puzzles and they are laid out right in front of me 😂 This looks like it’s tedious and requires some serious skill and patience. Greta job doing this, explaining what you’re doing and filming it. Thanks Brother!
It's a tough spot to access because it's at arms length over the engine but once you understand how the pieces fit together it isn't too bad to fix. The engineers design vehicles to work but give little thought to maintenance. At the factory, the whole body is lowered around the engine. It's then up to mechanics to figure out how to maintain and replace components. There's something missing in that plan. Thanks for stopping by, Doug. Spring is coming and soon you'll be back outside without the need for a down parka. Take Care
@@garymcnemar6620 There’s a release tool for the fuel rail, available at any parts store for about $10. It just pushes into the fitting and releases the hold the pipes have on each other. Some are metal and some tools are plastic with different sizes all in one kit. Thanks for your comment. I hope to see you again. Best Wishes
Superior video. All the detail I wanted to see. Love my 4.2: 260,000 miles and never been out nor rebuilt. Runs like a champ, but I am thinking about the job you did. Thanks.
I just did this job on a 2001, very similar setup. Had some PCV leakage as well, so I replaced the rubber boots on both valve covers and added in some silicone airhose, replaced the coolant hose for the bank 1 heated PCV as well. Doing those rear IMRC bushings was flipping impossible though, just about. Doing it by feel while stretched overtop the entire engine bay. I also brushed out the EGR ports on the lower manifold to make sure those didn't become a problem later, using some cheap engine brushes from Hazard Fraught. Pretty easy to spin out a bunch of gross crap out of them after hitting them with some good chlorinated brake parts cleaner ahead of time to soak in. The "cab forward" design looks nice on the outside but working at the back of the engine is flippin' impossible.
Yes, I agree, The engines on these are hard to get to, especially the rear. The bushings are a nightmare as you know. This nightmare stuff is perfect because today is HALLOWEEN !!!🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃
@@EverydayProjects Yeah unfortunately today I have to put the upper intake plenum back on. The 3 nuts in the back are the worst and I was probably having nightmares about them last night. Truck came in with cylinder 5 misfire and bank 2 lean codes. Had to wait to finish until the new ignition coil pack arrived (swapped cylinder 1 and cylinder 5 wires on the coil and the misfire moved to cylinder 1 = bad ignition coil.). Isolator bolt grommets were hard as a rock and bank 2 were covered in oily residue, so not holding down the lower intake very well. That and the PCV stuff likely causing the lean code, but I'm about to find out for sure. This video just came on my feed on a break. Thanks for taking the time to make it. The tape on the finger was a good idea! I wish I'd thought of that. I used a pick to get and hold the bushings in place, but tape would have helped. I only dropped 2 of them, though!
Thanks. It has been holding up quite well since this repair...almost a full year so far. The finger impression trick comes in handy for lots of places where you can't see.
Excellent video. Calm , concise and informative. I am going to do the same on a 99 with the metal intake. Also fixing a leaky hose fitting in the front that requires the removal of the upper intake. Thank you for the video and your replies to comments are hilarious.
Hey, thanks! I like to do things methodically and film them so others can follow. The funny stuff I write in comments is just what I do. If you spent an afternoon with me working on cars, I'd be telling stories and laughing a lot. Just how I'm wired. If you want to see some crazy comments I've made, go check out "Grampie's workshop", "Big Son's Lawncare" or "Guys playing with tools"- We like to chuck the insults back and forth. hahahah
Thank you sir for the complete rundown on how to remove the intake. I have a leak at cylinder 2 where the smaller gaskets are. I plan to change it this spring (kinda cold in Alaska right now). Plan to change the IMRC grommets in the back since they often break but with 165k on it, not sure if I should just bite the bullet and change the IMRC motor too.🤷♂️
Might as well put in a new IMRC motor at the same time. They aren't too expensive and are difficult to access later. Best to get it done while you're in there. Check Rockauto or ebay for parts. Have you subscribed to my channel? It's FREE Thanks
I have always had a knack for mechanical things but I cannot carry a tune in a bucket or play any musical instrument except for the radio. You on the other hand have skills in the musical field I could only dream of possessing (and never will). Thanks for watching and commenting, and, as always, Best Wishes!!
Considering the common intake leakage on 4.2 manifolds, would it have been advisable to remove the lower manifold and change those gaskets too? Would have made the IMRC motor replacement easier. I have to do the same on my 4.2. Thanks, very detailed.
I rebuilt this engine in 2014 and addressed the lower intake manifold gaskets then by upgrading to Victor Reinz gaskets, sourced from Ford as an approved fix for the hydro locking leak problem. The video of the rebuild is here on my channel. Thanks for the question. I’ve had no issue with leaks at the lower intake manifold gaskets but your concern is valid and welcome.
Knocked the first portion out in under an hour (down to the runner replacement) The back 2 bolts were a pain but no worse than some blend doors. I'm actually very mad and upset I didn't attempt this long ago because it seemed like a big job, but it was a breeze so far I've replaced the fuel pump in this truck as well as the entire AC system, including the squirrel cage and switch regulator (2x) And I've done the plugs and coil packs (plugs are known to snap off when removing from what I recall) and I would easily do this job 2x over compared to any other of the repairs. *Note, not in your video, I did cut a rubber glove finger off and rubber band the coolant valve so it stopped pissing out coolant.
Not too bad a job. What l found difficult was the reach over the whole length of the engine to the rear bolts. I rebuilt this engine 9 years ago and replaced all the bushings and seals on the upper plenum at the time, but not the IMRC motor. It was time to change it out. Funny you mentioned the squirrel cage fan because just yesterday mine failed. Take care
How's she goin'? So I'm going to start by saying I'm impressed. No squirrels were around bugging you and damaging any of your tools or equipment. Now for the job: Wow Craig, you tackled a big one here. Getting at those back bolts and the getting the motor disconnected and then putting those bushings in place. Well all I can say is you deserve a medal for doing that. Slick trick to put the tape on your finger!! I like a man who can think on his belly with his arms stretched and bent into places that a mere mortal could never get to!! Nice job and it sounded good on start up too!! Take a bow and a beer and have a great week!!!
I will wait by the mailbox for my award. Thinking on my belly has become second nature with this truck. The engine is partially under the overhang of the windshield and a guy needs to be built like the ideal submariner to reach anything. As you are well aquainted, an ideal submariner is three feet tall with four arms, each or which is six feet long with twelve elbows in each. I'm not built like that but I watched and learned from real submariners when working in the dockyard...when I was awake that is.
@@GrampiesWorkshop And you wonder why the country's in debt. Your story reminds me of a trick that was played quite often on new security workers at the dockyard. They made announcements over the PA system for various requests from their little shack at the entrance to the Sub or ship, as was the case. Seasoned dockyard mateys would ask the new guy to page " Dockyard Rigger Mortis" to the sickbay, or other locale. They'd broadcast the request but didn't realize the joke was on them. Rigor Mortis is, of course, the stiffening of the body after death. Dockyard Rigor Mortis was certainly one of those guys sleeping somewhere or barely moving as was often the case in a place where work was second in importance to resting, gossiping, and slacking off while on the payroll. Thank goodness we now have Trudeau at the wheel to steer us into calmer waters, eh?
One has not truely lived until they have laid face-down in an engine compartment, blinded and burned by an extention light and skinned their knuckles on a job like this. Don't let the garage mechanics have all this fun! Dive in and sheer joy awaits!
Sure you could get in there...it's just a bit of a stretch.Hahah Another way to get at the IMRC motor and bushings is to remove the lower intake manifold and change them out on the bench. It is more work and involves a new set of lower intake manifold gaskets but it may be easier than laying on top of the engine for an afternoon.
The heads were off a few years ago and I installed new gaskets then including Victor reinz intake manifold gaskets direct from Ford which are the improved ones that help prevent hydro locking (water leaks into the combustion chamber). Thanks I have a video of the rebuild: th-cam.com/video/68CbNlzPOYM/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for this vídeo and explanation. My only question Is why didn't you put the gasket that goes between the two plastic parts while the lower one was out?
I could have installed that blue gasket first but installing it after I was done bolting the lower half down may have prevented damage to the gasket while I was working at the bolts. It can be installed before or after, just the way I did it. I hope your repair goes well .
If the IMRC motor and system isn't working correctly you'll usually get a code (P1518-stuck open) or a P2004. If the linkages have broken bushings or the IMRC motor is faulty, you'll get the same symptoms such as sluggish acceleration, lack of power at low speed, poor gas mileage, and sometimes a flapping noise inside the engine. I know that these symptoms are hard to pin down since they can be similar to other causes, but if you have eliminated other potential causes such as ignition and fuel issues, compression, etc. it wouldn't hurt to get in and check the IMRC and the bushings.
This is excellent, thanks very much I'm having this done soon and it has given me an appreciation for the amount of work the mechanic will be undertaking. A question regarding the KNOCK SENSOR, on my 2003, 4.6. , Can you confirm the plug is a female one? Thanks again.
I checked Rockauto and it appears that the knock sensor has a female plug that leades down to the knock sensor screwed to the block. The corresponding plug leading from the vehicle's wiring harness to the knock sensor is male. All the best. Don't forget to Subscribe to my channel...it's free!
Sir. Is there n adjustment for the IMRC ? On the mounting tabs the holes are slightly elongated it seems to slide the IMRC back and forth to get a synchronized butterfly open for the front and rear sets simultaneously. Is this correct ?
The green grommets are the OEM Ford replacements. They came from the factory with black. Looks like somebody had already done the isolator bolts. You'll probably be fine, just a note for future viewers.
Thanks for the info. I rebuilt the engine in 2014 ( a complete tear down and rebuild) and I was the guy who changed the grommets back then. I didn't know that the factory ones were black though. Thanks again!
@@EverydayProjectswhen you installed the new isolator bolts did you just tighten them down? I removed the old ones by gently hammering them out but im not sure if the new ones have to be inserted the same way or if tightening them will seat them how they were prior
Thanks for the video! Anything else worth replacing while in there? I have a 2002 f150 only 105k miles but there is a coolant leak, so in the midst of doing this overhaul. Also that back left bolt on the upper manifold is a huge pain! Mine has a stud sticking out of it and the two hoses above it make it impossible to get a socket on it, I guess a ratcheting wrench is necessary?
Here’s a question, when smoke testing, those intake runner bushings that are in the lower intake manifold. Are they suppose to leak smoke from there normally? I’ve smoke tested multiple f150 of the same year and all of them leak there.
I didn't smoke test the engine so I can't answer that with an accuracy. I don't think that the runner valves close totally tight (not like a valve seat) so I'd say that even new ones would leak some smoke.
When you're in there, best to change anything you can while you're at it. Often, most gaskets and seals come in a single kit. The problem was the IMRC bushings but to get there you have to take half the world apart. Thanks for your comment.
It's a tough spot to get to, agreed. But I am fortunate that I grew several extra arms (some with four of five elbows in each) when I worked in a shipyard years ago repairing submarines. As we all know, submarines are cramped with little room to work. I grew these extra arms and they have been very handy for working on cars (especially since my hands can now swivel 360 degrees too). It would have been a very difficuly job for a mere mortal to fix this Ford with only two regular arms but I'm lucky, I guess. With all my arms and elbows I can get into just about anywhere !
@@chetalle7043 It's a tough spot to reach and it is surprising because all the work is on top of the engine. I had to be face-down with the hood latch eating into my guts for much of this job. Lots of fun. haha
This job spanned several afternoons and evenings and one late night. Someday I'm going to get myself proper LED work lights that can be clamped on the work instead of these "trouble lights" (aptly named!) that tie up one hand and are often aimed back to blind a guy. This job was OK but I may have used a prohibited word or two or three here and there throughout the filming (but carefully removed by the magic of video editing).
Did you have to drain any oils or anything before doing this before my truck is coming up with the same code problem and I really don’t wanna pay for a mechanic when I can do it myself but if I have to drain anything of that sort I’ll probably have take it in thanks for the video please let me know if you did.
My question is regarding the metal intake vs the plastic one , which one is better? I have the metal one it seems bigger bulkier and the gasket is also different, i'm not a fan of the metal on metal and it does not seem to seat flush, i prefer the plastic one like my chevy 5.3 with the same rubber style gaskets they seem to get a better seal. Anyhow what's your thoughts on the fords metal vs plastic intakes pros/cons?
I don't think they are a direct swap. Not sure if all the connections would be the same. I'm not sure if one would work in place of the aluminum one or not. Maybe check Rockauto and see if the manifolds look the same. Sorry not to be more help.
Hello, it would have been good if at the beginning of the video you presented the engine failure just as you presented the operation at the end since I think my truck has the same problem, that is, the engine shakes and at high speed it does not develop less when going uphill, it is like a donkey. . greetings
Maybe check all your basics: Plugs-clean and gap or replace; wires-change with new ones; coil- if the coil shows any cracks at all (especially underneath) get rid of it; change your fuel filter; clean your injectors and/or put a concentrated fuel injector cleaner in the tank and drive for a few days; knock sensor- change the knock sensor.
Yes, I did all of the things you suggested in other videos. All good points though. I use Lucas fuel injector cleaner regularly, replaced fuel filter, cleaned injectors, installed new iridium plugs, new wire set, changed a cracked coil that had irregular readings, knock sensor, throttle position sensor...with all that done, the problem persisted.
You make a good point but at the time or the repair, the vehicle wasn't safe to take on the road to capture the symptoms on video. Sometimes, it's the best I can do with the footage I can capture. I usually show the before, during and after but it's not always easy or practical. Thanks for watching and commenting. You may have other components causing the problem. If you are a do-it-yourself mechanic, sometimes it pays to have the vehicle analyzed in a shop then take it home with the diagnosis and repair at a lesser cost. Most garages will figure a problem out in an hour..about $80-$150 for their time.
No sir, not my first rodeo. I’ve been bucking broncos since way back when they used dinosaurs instead of horses. That will explain some of my wrinkles.👽👽👽Thanks for watching, Renaldo👍💪🏽😎
I had been chasing a sluggish response and hesitation issue that was proven not to be compression, spark, or electronic. It pointed me to the upper intake manifold isolator grommets and the IMRC. I did not have the vehicle scanned for this diagnosis, I just went through everything I could think of in increasing levels of complexity, this being the deep dive I was avoiding. It fixed the issue.
@@LayzeeJay Yes, if the bushings break or are missing, the engine will not run right. That's why it's so important to keep them in good shape. And since they are so hard to get to, it's good advice to change them every time you're in there or have the upper intake off. All the best!
How in the world did you access the two bolts closest to the rear (firewall area) on the upper intake manifold? I can barely even fit my telescopic mirror back there, let alone a wrench of any sort. The space between the top of the upper intake and the bottom of the upper firewall area is maybe an inch or so.
I appreciate the reply. I'm thinking that perhaps I'll get a cheap 1/4" drive socket wrench with a very long handle from Amazon. I see one with a 12" handle for $20. This way, maybe I'll be able to turn the wrench with my hand beyond that "bottleneck" area between the upper manifold and lower firewall.
My 03 has a 10"x 5" door under dash with 4 bolts..remove it and access the part that way it's easier. Naa just kidding!!..but if u could make a door be kinda nice.
You had me there for a second....and then I thought.....I've had this whole truck apart limb by limb and never saw a door! ha ha Good one. I did cut a hole in the bed of a Chevy truck one time to access the fuel pump/sending unit. That was way easier than dropping a half-full tank of gas on myself (or lifting the bed). I just riveted a piece of metal over the hole in the floor when I was finished, put the plastic bed liner in, and done! These IMRC bushings are a real treat to change. What with the hood latch digging into my guts and all....Just a complete Joy!! LOL Thanks for getting me laughing!
Yeah, Ford has a better idea. Why couldn't they mount the IMRC on the front of the engine especially because the stupid plastic bushings deteriorate and the rods fall off. A 3 dollar bushing takes hours to replace. Stupid engineeting
![Ford 4.2L V6 Hydrolock and IMRC fix [1080 HD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bhIq9lsKvOU/mqdefault.jpg)
I just want to say that this video was very informative.
I follwed your guide to a T.... And soon as i took off the clam shell. Upper intake , lo and behold both levers on the IMRC box were completely off. Rotted grommets. I replaced them and engine runs smooth again. It completely resolved my error codes. . Thank you
I'm very glad that my video helped! I do my own work and take the time to film it, hoping that it will shed light on the same issues for others. When I get feedback like this, it's all worth it. I appreciate your comments and wish you well!
I’ve never been good at puzzles and they are laid out right in front of me 😂 This looks like it’s tedious and requires some serious skill and patience. Greta job doing this, explaining what you’re doing and filming it. Thanks Brother!
It's a tough spot to access because it's at arms length over the engine but once you understand how the pieces fit together it isn't too bad to fix. The engineers design vehicles to work but give little thought to maintenance. At the factory, the whole body is lowered around the engine. It's then up to mechanics to figure out how to maintain and replace components. There's something missing in that plan. Thanks for stopping by, Doug. Spring is coming and soon you'll be back outside without the need for a down parka. Take Care
@@davebryant8050I think you're right. So many bad designs and big $$$ to keep the stealerships going!
Excellent video!!! I just wish that I could've seen how to remove the fuel rail. Thank you for sharing, I learned a lot!
@@garymcnemar6620 There’s a release tool for the fuel rail, available at any parts store for about $10. It just pushes into the fitting and releases the hold the pipes have on each other. Some are metal and some tools are plastic with different sizes all in one kit. Thanks for your comment. I hope to see you again. Best Wishes
Superior video. All the detail I wanted to see.
Love my 4.2: 260,000 miles and never been out nor rebuilt. Runs like a champ, but I am thinking about the job you did. Thanks.
Thanks, Hugh! Glad to help!
I just did this job on a 2001, very similar setup. Had some PCV leakage as well, so I replaced the rubber boots on both valve covers and added in some silicone airhose, replaced the coolant hose for the bank 1 heated PCV as well. Doing those rear IMRC bushings was flipping impossible though, just about. Doing it by feel while stretched overtop the entire engine bay. I also brushed out the EGR ports on the lower manifold to make sure those didn't become a problem later, using some cheap engine brushes from Hazard Fraught. Pretty easy to spin out a bunch of gross crap out of them after hitting them with some good chlorinated brake parts cleaner ahead of time to soak in.
The "cab forward" design looks nice on the outside but working at the back of the engine is flippin' impossible.
Yes, I agree, The engines on these are hard to get to, especially the rear. The bushings are a nightmare as you know. This nightmare stuff is perfect because today is HALLOWEEN !!!🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃
@@EverydayProjects Yeah unfortunately today I have to put the upper intake plenum back on. The 3 nuts in the back are the worst and I was probably having nightmares about them last night. Truck came in with cylinder 5 misfire and bank 2 lean codes. Had to wait to finish until the new ignition coil pack arrived (swapped cylinder 1 and cylinder 5 wires on the coil and the misfire moved to cylinder 1 = bad ignition coil.). Isolator bolt grommets were hard as a rock and bank 2 were covered in oily residue, so not holding down the lower intake very well. That and the PCV stuff likely causing the lean code, but I'm about to find out for sure.
This video just came on my feed on a break. Thanks for taking the time to make it. The tape on the finger was a good idea! I wish I'd thought of that. I used a pick to get and hold the bushings in place, but tape would have helped. I only dropped 2 of them, though!
Like the finger impression idea . Good job . Like the patients . Hope the bottom ones do go out anytime soon
Thanks. It has been holding up quite well since this repair...almost a full year so far. The finger impression trick comes in handy for lots of places where you can't see.
Excellent video. Calm , concise and informative. I am going to do the same on a 99 with the metal intake. Also fixing a leaky hose fitting in the front that requires the removal of the upper intake. Thank you for the video and your replies to comments are hilarious.
Hey, thanks! I like to do things methodically and film them so others can follow. The funny stuff I write in comments is just what I do. If you spent an afternoon with me working on cars, I'd be telling stories and laughing a lot. Just how I'm wired. If you want to see some crazy comments I've made, go check out "Grampie's workshop", "Big Son's Lawncare" or "Guys playing with tools"- We like to chuck the insults back and forth. hahahah
Thank you sir for the complete rundown on how to remove the intake. I have a leak at cylinder 2 where the smaller gaskets are. I plan to change it this spring (kinda cold in Alaska right now).
Plan to change the IMRC grommets in the back since they often break but with 165k on it, not sure if I should just bite the bullet and change the IMRC motor too.🤷♂️
Might as well put in a new IMRC motor at the same time. They aren't too expensive and are difficult to access later. Best to get it done while you're in there. Check Rockauto or ebay for parts. Have you subscribed to my channel? It's FREE Thanks
Another very clear and concise explanation. It takes a lot of knowhow and patience. Affirms my way of doing things - paying someone else to do it🤪
I have always had a knack for mechanical things but I cannot carry a tune in a bucket or play any musical instrument except for the radio. You on the other hand have skills in the musical field I could only dream of possessing (and never will). Thanks for watching and commenting, and, as always, Best Wishes!!
Considering the common intake leakage on 4.2 manifolds, would it have been advisable to remove the lower manifold and change those gaskets too? Would have made the IMRC motor replacement easier. I have to do the same on my 4.2.
Thanks, very detailed.
I rebuilt this engine in 2014 and addressed the lower intake manifold gaskets then by upgrading to Victor Reinz gaskets, sourced from Ford as an approved fix for the hydro locking leak problem. The video of the rebuild is here on my channel. Thanks for the question. I’ve had no issue with leaks at the lower intake manifold gaskets but your concern is valid and welcome.
@@EverydayProjects Thank you.
Knocked the first portion out in under an hour (down to the runner replacement) The back 2 bolts were a pain but no worse than some blend doors. I'm actually very mad and upset I didn't attempt this long ago because it seemed like a big job, but it was a breeze so far
I've replaced the fuel pump in this truck as well as the entire AC system, including the squirrel cage and switch regulator (2x) And I've done the plugs and coil packs (plugs are known to snap off when removing from what I recall) and I would easily do this job 2x over compared to any other of the repairs.
*Note, not in your video, I did cut a rubber glove finger off and rubber band the coolant valve so it stopped pissing out coolant.
Not too bad a job. What l found difficult was the reach over the whole length of the engine to the rear bolts. I rebuilt this engine 9 years ago and replaced all the bushings and seals on the upper plenum at the time, but not the IMRC motor. It was time to change it out. Funny you mentioned the squirrel cage fan because just yesterday mine failed. Take care
Many thanks for this, very well done !
Thank you! I like to include details that help others. Hope to see you here again!
How's she goin'? So I'm going to start by saying I'm impressed. No squirrels were around bugging you and damaging any of your tools or equipment. Now for the job: Wow Craig, you tackled a big one here. Getting at those back bolts and the getting the motor disconnected and then putting those bushings in place. Well all I can say is you deserve a medal for doing that. Slick trick to put the tape on your finger!! I like a man who can think on his belly with his arms stretched and bent into places that a mere mortal could never get to!! Nice job and it sounded good on start up too!! Take a bow and a beer and have a great week!!!
I will wait by the mailbox for my award. Thinking on my belly has become second nature with this truck. The engine is partially under the overhang of the windshield and a guy needs to be built like the ideal submariner to reach anything. As you are well aquainted, an ideal submariner is three feet tall with four arms, each or which is six feet long with twelve elbows in each. I'm not built like that but I watched and learned from real submariners when working in the dockyard...when I was awake that is.
@@EverydayProjects I used to sleep behind the sonar sets. It was quiet and warm!!
@@GrampiesWorkshop And you wonder why the country's in debt. Your story reminds me of a trick that was played quite often on new security workers at the dockyard. They made announcements over the PA system for various requests from their little shack at the entrance to the Sub or ship, as was the case. Seasoned dockyard mateys would ask the new guy to page " Dockyard Rigger Mortis" to the sickbay, or other locale. They'd broadcast the request but didn't realize the joke was on them. Rigor Mortis is, of course, the stiffening of the body after death. Dockyard Rigor Mortis was certainly one of those guys sleeping somewhere or barely moving as was often the case in a place where work was second in importance to resting, gossiping, and slacking off while on the payroll. Thank goodness we now have Trudeau at the wheel to steer us into calmer waters, eh?
@@EverydayProjects Ha Ha Ha!! I remember those days!! LOL
Outstanding job, have a great day
Thanks, Dave all the best to you.
Great job getting those bushings in, it looked really difficult. I am not sure this is a job I would want to do
One has not truely lived until they have laid face-down in an engine compartment, blinded and burned by an extention light and skinned their knuckles on a job like this. Don't let the garage mechanics have all this fun! Dive in and sheer joy awaits!
Glad my intake and plenum are metal not plastic
Yep, the newer ones are all plastic. Not bad, though. They still do the job.
👍👍👍👍 Well done !!! Great how to video. I'm not sure I could crawl back in there to get those back pieces.
Sure you could get in there...it's just a bit of a stretch.Hahah Another way to get at the IMRC motor and bushings is to remove the lower intake manifold and change them out on the bench. It is more work and involves a new set of lower intake manifold gaskets but it may be easier than laying on top of the engine for an afternoon.
Probably best to take the lower intake off clean it and throw on fresh gaskets and rebuild the imrc while its out
The heads were off a few years ago and I installed new gaskets then including Victor reinz intake manifold gaskets direct from Ford which are the improved ones that help prevent hydro locking (water leaks into the combustion chamber). Thanks I have a video of the rebuild: th-cam.com/video/68CbNlzPOYM/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for this vídeo and explanation. My only question Is why didn't you put the gasket that goes between the two plastic parts while the lower one was out?
I could have installed that blue gasket first but installing it after I was done bolting the lower half down may have prevented damage to the gasket while I was working at the bolts. It can be installed before or after, just the way I did it. I hope your repair goes well .
Great video my friend how do you test it to see if it's working correctly
If the IMRC motor and system isn't working correctly you'll usually get a code (P1518-stuck open) or a P2004. If the linkages have broken bushings or the IMRC motor is faulty, you'll get the same symptoms such as sluggish acceleration, lack of power at low speed, poor gas mileage, and sometimes a flapping noise inside the engine. I know that these symptoms are hard to pin down since they can be similar to other causes, but if you have eliminated other potential causes such as ignition and fuel issues, compression, etc. it wouldn't hurt to get in and check the IMRC and the bushings.
This is excellent, thanks very much I'm having this done soon and it has given me an appreciation for the amount of work the mechanic will be undertaking. A question regarding the KNOCK SENSOR, on my 2003, 4.6. , Can you confirm the plug is a female one? Thanks again.
I checked Rockauto and it appears that the knock sensor has a female plug that leades down to the knock sensor screwed to the block. The corresponding plug leading from the vehicle's wiring harness to the knock sensor is male. All the best. Don't forget to Subscribe to my channel...it's free!
Sir. Is there n adjustment for the IMRC ? On the mounting tabs the holes are slightly elongated it seems to slide the IMRC back and forth to get a synchronized butterfly open for the front and rear sets simultaneously. Is this correct ?
The green grommets are the OEM Ford replacements. They came from the factory with black. Looks like somebody had already done the isolator bolts. You'll probably be fine, just a note for future viewers.
Thanks for the info. I rebuilt the engine in 2014 ( a complete tear down and rebuild) and I was the guy who changed the grommets back then. I didn't know that the factory ones were black though. Thanks again!
@@EverydayProjectswhen you installed the new isolator bolts did you just tighten them down? I removed the old ones by gently hammering them out but im not sure if the new ones have to be inserted the same way or if tightening them will seat them how they were prior
@@miguelmolinar4560 I just oiled the isolators and bolted them down.
Do happen to have a list of all the parts needed I need to do this this my truck
Look on Rockauto.com they'll have the parts and they are less expensive than any store.
Thanks for the video! Anything else worth replacing while in there? I have a 2002 f150 only 105k miles but there is a coolant leak, so in the midst of doing this overhaul. Also that back left bolt on the upper manifold is a huge pain! Mine has a stud sticking out of it and the two hoses above it make it impossible to get a socket on it, I guess a ratcheting wrench is necessary?
Here’s a question, when smoke testing, those intake runner bushings that are in the lower intake manifold. Are they suppose to leak smoke from there normally? I’ve smoke tested multiple f150 of the same year and all of them leak there.
I didn't smoke test the engine so I can't answer that with an accuracy. I don't think that the runner valves close totally tight (not like a valve seat) so I'd say that even new ones would leak some smoke.
What was the reason for changing the intake plenum gaskets? Was there a leak causing a miss?
When you're in there, best to change anything you can while you're at it. Often, most gaskets and seals come in a single kit. The problem was the IMRC bushings but to get there you have to take half the world apart. Thanks for your comment.
nice job!
That job is hell good luck
It's a tough spot to get to, agreed. But I am fortunate that I grew several extra arms (some with four of five elbows in each) when I worked in a shipyard years ago repairing submarines. As we all know, submarines are cramped with little room to work. I grew these extra arms and they have been very handy for working on cars (especially since my hands can now swivel 360 degrees too). It would have been a very difficuly job for a mere mortal to fix this Ford with only two regular arms but I'm lucky, I guess. With all my arms and elbows I can get into just about anywhere !
My side and back hurt. My hands hurt to
@@chetalle7043 It's a tough spot to reach and it is surprising because all the work is on top of the engine. I had to be face-down with the hood latch eating into my guts for much of this job. Lots of fun. haha
I see you've been hard at it working into the night! Been there done that!
Take care Craig🍻
This job spanned several afternoons and evenings and one late night. Someday I'm going to get myself proper LED work lights that can be clamped on the work instead of these "trouble lights" (aptly named!) that tie up one hand and are often aimed back to blind a guy. This job was OK but I may have used a prohibited word or two or three here and there throughout the filming (but carefully removed by the magic of video editing).
Did you have to drain any oils or anything before doing this before my truck is coming up with the same code problem and I really don’t wanna pay for a mechanic when I can do it myself but if I have to drain anything of that sort I’ll probably have take it in thanks for the video please let me know if you did.
No fluids to drain to do this
My question is regarding the metal intake vs the plastic one , which one is better? I have the metal one it seems bigger bulkier and the gasket is also different, i'm not a fan of the metal on metal and it does not seem to seat flush, i prefer the plastic one like my chevy 5.3 with the same rubber style gaskets they seem to get a better seal. Anyhow what's your thoughts on the fords metal vs plastic intakes pros/cons?
I don't think they are a direct swap. Not sure if all the connections would be the same. I'm not sure if one would work in place of the aluminum one or not. Maybe check Rockauto and see if the manifolds look the same. Sorry not to be more help.
Hello, it would have been good if at the beginning of the video you presented the engine failure just as you presented the operation at the end since I think my truck has the same problem, that is, the engine shakes and at high speed it does not develop less when going uphill, it is like a donkey. . greetings
Maybe check all your basics: Plugs-clean and gap or replace; wires-change with new ones; coil- if the coil shows any cracks at all (especially underneath) get rid of it; change your fuel filter; clean your injectors and/or put a concentrated fuel injector cleaner in the tank and drive for a few days; knock sensor- change the knock sensor.
Yes, I did all of the things you suggested in other videos. All good points though. I use Lucas fuel injector cleaner regularly, replaced fuel filter, cleaned injectors, installed new iridium plugs, new wire set, changed a cracked coil that had irregular readings, knock sensor, throttle position sensor...with all that done, the problem persisted.
You make a good point but at the time or the repair, the vehicle wasn't safe to take on the road to capture the symptoms on video. Sometimes, it's the best I can do with the footage I can capture. I usually show the before, during and after but it's not always easy or practical. Thanks for watching and commenting. You may have other components causing the problem. If you are a do-it-yourself mechanic, sometimes it pays to have the vehicle analyzed in a shop then take it home with the diagnosis and repair at a lesser cost. Most garages will figure a problem out in an hour..about $80-$150 for their time.
Well I try to wrench on my mowing equipment but I'm not that good around my auto engines. Definitely not your first rodeo ✔️💯
No sir, not my first rodeo. I’ve been bucking broncos since way back when they used dinosaurs instead of horses. That will explain some of my wrinkles.👽👽👽Thanks for watching, Renaldo👍💪🏽😎
Hey how did you know this was this issue? Did you get a code or was there another indicator?
I had been chasing a sluggish response and hesitation issue that was proven not to be compression, spark, or electronic. It pointed me to the upper intake manifold isolator grommets and the IMRC. I did not have the vehicle scanned for this diagnosis, I just went through everything I could think of in increasing levels of complexity, this being the deep dive I was avoiding. It fixed the issue.
I watch another video guy was getting lean code on one bank and that bank was the one missing a bushing
@@LayzeeJay Yes, if the bushings break or are missing, the engine will not run right. That's why it's so important to keep them in good shape. And since they are so hard to get to, it's good advice to change them every time you're in there or have the upper intake off. All the best!
How in the world did you access the two bolts closest to the rear (firewall area) on the upper intake manifold? I can barely even fit my telescopic mirror back there, let alone a wrench of any sort. The space between the top of the upper intake and the bottom of the upper firewall area is maybe an inch or so.
I used 1\4 inch drive ratchet and socket and took a lot of time. Good luck. It’s a tough one
I appreciate the reply.
I'm thinking that perhaps I'll get a cheap 1/4" drive socket wrench with a very long handle from Amazon. I see one with a 12" handle for $20. This way, maybe I'll be able to turn the wrench with my hand beyond that "bottleneck" area between the upper manifold and lower firewall.
@@BCLewis-ng9wv Yes, it’s a tough spot to reach. I laid down on top of the engine, on a thick blanket to get at those bolts.
Good
Thanks. Those bushings do fail when they get brittle and this is how to change them.
I would have changed that to the allummion intake
This plastic intake is what I have so it went back on.
My 03 has a 10"x 5" door under dash with 4 bolts..remove it and access the part that way it's easier.
Naa just kidding!!..but if u could make a door be kinda nice.
You had me there for a second....and then I thought.....I've had this whole truck apart limb by limb and never saw a door! ha ha Good one. I did cut a hole in the bed of a Chevy truck one time to access the fuel pump/sending unit. That was way easier than dropping a half-full tank of gas on myself (or lifting the bed). I just riveted a piece of metal over the hole in the floor when I was finished, put the plastic bed liner in, and done! These IMRC bushings are a real treat to change. What with the hood latch digging into my guts and all....Just a complete Joy!! LOL Thanks for getting me laughing!
Yeah, Ford has a better idea. Why couldn't they mount the IMRC on the front of the engine especially because the stupid plastic bushings deteriorate and the rods fall off. A 3 dollar bushing takes hours to replace. Stupid engineeting
Yes, exactly. Don’t forget to get to them you have to lay on top of the engine with the hood latch digging into your guts😵😵