Excellent video, my 01 has thrown the 171 code with the 174 pending. As a shade tree mechanic TH-cam has been indispensable especially when you find such wonderfully helpful vids such as yours. Just starting to run down my issue(s), thank you for giving me something else to check, never would have considered looking at the IMRC bushings. Hope it doesn't have to get that far.
Excellent video, I'm in the process of trying to replace my lower intake manifold and treasure all your pointers! Unfortunately, I also had to replace the water pump and belt tensioner. I've managed to brake one of the ling water pump bolts and also the belt tensioner bolt. Not having any luck locating replacement bolts... plus I still have to pull the front end off to extract the 2 broken bolts. At least you showed me that I don't have to disconnect the fuel rail! Thank you for everything!
The lean code was probably just the isolator bolts. Super common problem. No need to pull the lower manifold. Extra work. Just mentioning for future people who come across the video. The earlier 4.2's had lower manifold issues, but by 2003 those were gone. Ford isolator bolts are still available. Probably much better quality than Fel-Pro and Dorman. Surprised that you chose Dorman over Fel-Pro also. Strange. Anyway, good luck, and thanks for posting a video.
He shows them at 16:22. They hold the middle part of the intake system on. The plastic on to the metal. He doesn't show them in the manifold but they're at the points he shows in the torque sequence diagram. You can see the heads of the bolts at 17:25. @@RobertFarrell-bg3jd
Top-notch video! Thank you. Also, pat yourself on the back for replacing those heater hoses while your intake manifold was out. Just did that with manifold in place, and boy was it a pain.
This video has helped tremendously. I have an 04 heritage(pretty much an 03) with this motor and those code but no imrc codes. I'm looking forward to tearing it apart here soon and cleaning up everything I can.
Thank you so much, this video was a huge help. I was able to replace one of the retainer bushings and bank 1 without removing the upper manifold. It was a pain but your video helped a ton. Thanks again!
Just performed the same IMRC fix. (Bit easier w a rearview of the engine from an E250 doghouse, lol) but unbelievable the codes thrown from a 10¢ plastic bushing failing & popping off. Any Ford owners experiencing rattling & loss of power under acceleration, I'd advise 1st take a peek at your IMRC actuators before spending tons of time & money. Not a lot of info on it out there besides "check your heat shields". 5 pack of "Dorman vacuum retainer bushings" for $10 (part# 47099), will save you a ton of headaches.. (Couldn't watch the whole video, but thanks for getting that part out there! 👊😎)
You're a patient man. I bought a 1999 E-250 with that motor AND those codes. Drove it weekends for a couple months to finish the job I was doing; sold it for even money, never bothered to fix it. (Like you said, it ran fine.) I imagine it's easier to do this job on an F-series, but still... You're a patient man.
Oh yes, I'm very patient! I wonder if the IMRC module would be easier to access on the Econoline van since you could open up the dog house and get to the back side of the motor from inside the vehicle.... Water under the bridge, as they say, since you sold the van. Thanks for watching the video!
I thought for sure the gasket got compromised looking like a race and very rough install..i'd bet is the reason the light came back on. Thanks very much for the detailed work with part numbers, part names and locations!! Other sites were useless and I now have all I need to do the repair myself. I bought an 03 and a few days later noticed a small pool of coolant at the top front wondering if the intake or water pump now it might be a rusty coolant pipe the 90 degree one especially it's in that area and the truck came from Illinois and was in Hawaii a few years and has some rust which being in Vegas rust is rare. I don't have a check engine light on (yet?) after 100 miles and it passed smog. Great work and info you did thanks as I like to do everything myself. Liked all the comments and will use the motorcraft grommets you mentioned. TY TY TY!
You got to have a lot of patience to do all of that. And a good amount of mechanical skill from over the years. Looks like South Jersey somewhere. I'm from New Jersey as well around Edison
Thanks, William. I'm sure you saw the Jersey plates, but how did you guess South Jersey? You are correct. I live in Mount Laurel. Thanks for watching the video.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to do the same repair. Smoke test indicates the lower intakes gaskets failed. Research indicates the Ford bushings (4) are better to go with even though 4-5 times the cost. Hope you have good luck with the HELP brand. Again great info brother.
Really very helpful. Thank you. Any issues with the injector electrical connectors? All of my retainer clips to secure the connection kept falling out.
Irmc plastic bushings fail every 3 yrs or so it been for the 11 yrs I have had mine also while you have it tore apart make sure you replace any vacuum lines to look worn double-check your injectors all that stuff you normally can't get to to double-check whenever the intake manifold is on top
I have a 2003 f150 4.2l i always replace the upper plenum gaskets along with the isolated bolts one thing i eember is that qhen u bolt down the plenum gaskets it has it oreder or else that code will come back
Great video Buck. It gave me hope today that I might do the job myself. I have a great running 1997 F150 4.2L V6. HOWEVER, it is throwing P1513, IMRC2. "STUCK CLOSED" After research I believe the plastic clip on the passenger side Right Bank may be accessible to pop in if it did indeed break. I have also learned it could be a vacuum solenoid not deenergizing above 3000 RPM - upon which the vacuum is then released allowing the butterfly to spring open. if I remove the power assembly connected to the right of the battery on the fire wall might I with a mirror see and access the clip housing for the rod? If not it becomes a trade off between a price to have a good shop to the job plus a little more vs. me doing in the driveway! Rain makes me wonder if I can or should remove the hood should I do such a project? What is a fair price to have a good shop replace both IMRC Banks 1 & 2? PS, I took all the AC crap out when I purchased the truck 3 years ago so I have some increased accessibility to the BANK 2 area. But it all seems daunting to actually try to fix it without pulling off the manifold! And that is no easy task for a 1st time pull off project like you just did. Thanks for your help as my inspection month is Feb. 2023! From Cape May NJ.
Thanks for the note, Thomas. I don't think removing the hood will be necessary. But I do think you'll at least need to pull the upper plenum, but not the lower intake manifold. Once you remove the plenum (bolts in the back are a pain to access), you'll be able to see the IMRC mechanism, and it should be immediately obvious if the control rods have popped out. I'm sure there's got to be a way to test the functionality of the IMRC control motor, but I'm not sure how to do that. For me, the bank 1 lean code has returned, and so the check engine light is back on. I'm wondering if the control rod popped out again. I wish I had bought the genuine motorcraft bushings instead of the dorman. But I'm not due for inspection till October, so I'm not going to worry about it for now. Good luck.
I just got done doing this job and when I turned the truck on I had a code for P1518 runners stuck open I even installed a new actuator 🤦🏻♂️I was devastated that I now have to take it all apart and figure out why it’s not working
Bummer. Maybe just take off the upper plenum, and not the entire intake manifold. You should be able (still a challenge) to access everything that way. Good luck.
I have a 1999 F150 with the 4.2 engine. I was wondering where the cover is that belongs on top of the fan shroud. That opening will allow air to go around the radiator instead of being pulled through. I have one but the truck you're working on doesn't. Just asking!
Good question. It was not there when I bought the truck, and I still don't have it. I did have to secure the top of the radiator with some wire, but it has been perfectly fine. Thanks.
I can't remember how long it took....I had the liberty to park the truck and do the project over a period of days. I have links in the description to the parts on Amazon, and there you will see the prices. You may find them cheaper elsewhere. In retrospect, I'd skip the Dorman IMRC bushings and try to find genuine motorcraft. That's the only thing I'd do differently. Good luck.
Would you know if this IMRC valve could be the reason for my muffler being glowing red hot and power loss , and erratic idleing , and strong sent of gasoline
I would doubt very much that the IMRC is in any way related to the problems you are experiencing. First thing that comes to my mind would be a plugged-up exhausted.....
Bought an 03 with 174,000miles.. around what miles do these usually fail? Hopefully they've been replaced already. I noticed the smell of coolant and see some pooling above the water pump the weep hole always dry..the heater core hose is right there too and has a radiator clamp that was loose i tightened..all good now but will keep checking..
I've had my 97 for about a year now. I've been involved with it since 97. My father in-laws old truck. I have all the maintenance records. Everything is cherry. Only 132k miles now. Bought it with 128k. Anything I should keep an eye out for? Same motor. 4.2. Still can't believe I only paid 3k
Yes, it's a great truck. Mine has a few things that need to be fixed....rear brakes, leaking windshield, new radio speakers, and other little things like that, which I may or may not get around too any time soon. We'll see. Good luck, and thanks for watching the videos.
Was that p0171 and p0174 the only codes you were getting from the truck. Because my truck the same year make and model is giving off 5 codes (p0303, p0171, p0316, p0304, and p0301) I was wondering if you think that code would also cause those 4 misfires that I am getting. Would hate to waste more money trying to figure this one out.
Lean codes (P0171 and P0174) can be caused by many things. Vacuum leak would be at the top of that list. I would definitely focus first on solving the misfire codes. Do a little research online for the codes you're getting. You can learn a lot that way. Good luck.
Great video! I am suspecting this happened to mine as well. I have a 2004 ford mustang 3.9 v6 and it does have a TSB on this issue. I can not see back there...I tried mirrors to no luck so I think I'm going to take the plenum off and see from there....can I see when I take the plenum off or will I need to take the lower intake off as well to see? Also did you notice a slight shake at idle with this issue? I am noticing a slight shake at idle and my trims aren't terrible but not good either bank 2 is +11% at idle while bank 1 is +4
I don't think you'll need to remove the lower intake manifold. Just remove the plenum and you'll see what you need to see. Still might be a pain to access the IMRC, but it won't be impossible. You might want to get the genuine motorcraft parts, which will hold up better than the cheap Dorman bushings I used. Thanks for watching the video, and good luck!
I'm sure the module could be faulty, but I don't know how exactly to check it. Maybe with a high-end scan tool? Most of us DIYers don't have one of those.....
I dragged the repair out over several days because I don't have a garage, and it was winter, so I was dependent on cooperative weather. Also, if your problem is just the IMRC links coming off, then you might get away with just removing the upper intake and not the lower. It will be pain to replace those plastic bushings without removing the lower intake, but not impossible. I went ahead and pulled the lower intake, as you know from viewing the video. Thanks for watching!
@@Buckwsr thanks for the response. Managed it in 4.5hrs in an E250 tryna beat the week of rain heading our way tomorrow. Lots of circling around front and back in a cargo van, and I'm plain beat now lol.. hr of that cleaning the clamshell, lower, and EGR ports best I could..(only plus was easy access to imrc/bushings & removing the upper from the doghouse side.. Purring like a kitten on start up now. Codes cleared. Appreciate the video, big help 👍
Hi I have a 1998 Ford F150 with the 4.2 V6 and it's got both codes P0171 & P0174 so what you just did to yours do you think that might be the problem with mine and yes my truck seams to be running fine the only thing that I am concerned about is the gas mileage will those codes cause my truck to burn more gas than normal ?
There are other causes of lean codes besides the ones addressed in this video. Could be vacuum leaks, for example, or intake manifold leaks. A smoke test would reveal those. I would certainly look into that before tearing things apart. It might be an easy fix...
I'm not sure about the impact of those code on gas mileage. Likely you'll burn more as the computer enrichens the mixture since the sensors are reading lean.
Do you mean the intake manifold gaskets? Don't go to all this work just to slap old gaskets back on the engine. Always use new ones. They're not very expensive.
Don't tell anyone, but I soaked the entire lower intake manifold is old gasoline. Then used an old toothbrush and scrubbed it all down. (I do a lot of lawn mower repair, so I end up often with cans of old gas. Works great for a parts cleaner.) Shhhh...keep it a secret...
In my opinion, the most notable inconvenience was the lighting of the check engine light which makes it impossible to pass state inspection. Beyond that, I cannot discern any change in the performance of the engine. Some say your gas mileage will suffer. I don't know. I just needed to pass inspection. Thanks for watching the video!
P0171 (lean bank 1) and P0174 (lean bank 2) can be caused by a number of issues. Often it's a vacuum leak. Google the code you've got for a complete list of what can cause it, and ideas on how to fix it.
Good job I have a econoline van with the 4.2 if you think the 5.4 is crap this had to be the worst motor ever put in those vans I had all these problems and more from this gutless motor.i cursed ford out and bought a Chevy
Have fun with the Chevy. I'm still more of a Ford guy. Had a great Ford work van, which I loved. Now this pick-up, which I picked-up (small pun) for pretty cheap. And my RV is built on the Ford F53 chassis with the 460 V8.
@@Buckwsr I am so far it’s a duramax 6.6 Chevy express has all the torque I need in a van.both platforms have their downsides but I prefer the engines in the Chevy,how much would you charge for job like that my 4.2 only has 120k miles but it’s sitting because of these issues
Just did the upper manifold gaskets...AGAIN...had p0171and P0174..was a vacuum leak cuz whats the chance BOTH O2 sensors go bad at the same time?? ...Had the IMRC issue too with those stupid plastic clips..another code for that! Still, love my truck and even though it's slow and can't haul a house, she's a reliable, smooth with a 5 spd, still fun to drive!! Nice video, nice job!
Excellent video, my 01 has thrown the 171 code with the 174 pending. As a shade tree mechanic TH-cam has been indispensable especially when you find such wonderfully helpful vids such as yours. Just starting to run down my issue(s), thank you for giving me something else to check, never would have considered looking at the IMRC bushings. Hope it doesn't have to get that far.
Thanks for sharing. I had to laugh when you said, “I hope the gasket wasn’t compromised” after wrenching it into position. I too say the same thing.
Awesome seeing it start up after all that. Great job!
Excellent video, I'm in the process of trying to replace my lower intake manifold and treasure all your pointers! Unfortunately, I also had to replace the water pump and belt tensioner. I've managed to brake one of the ling water pump bolts and also the belt tensioner bolt. Not having any luck locating replacement bolts... plus I still have to pull the front end off to extract the 2 broken bolts. At least you showed me that I don't have to disconnect the fuel rail!
Thank you for everything!
The lean code was probably just the isolator bolts. Super common problem. No need to pull the lower manifold. Extra work. Just mentioning for future people who come across the video. The earlier 4.2's had lower manifold issues, but by 2003 those were gone. Ford isolator bolts are still available. Probably much better quality than Fel-Pro and Dorman. Surprised that you chose Dorman over Fel-Pro also. Strange. Anyway, good luck, and thanks for posting a video.
My 2008 got the lean codes and I don’t wanna do the work but ig I will 😂
What are the isolator bolts?
He shows them at 16:22. They hold the middle part of the intake system on. The plastic on to the metal. He doesn't show them in the manifold but they're at the points he shows in the torque sequence diagram. You can see the heads of the bolts at 17:25. @@RobertFarrell-bg3jd
Top-notch video! Thank you. Also, pat yourself on the back for replacing those heater hoses while your intake manifold was out. Just did that with manifold in place, and boy was it a pain.
This video has helped tremendously. I have an 04 heritage(pretty much an 03) with this motor and those code but no imrc codes. I'm looking forward to tearing it apart here soon and cleaning up everything I can.
Good luck with the project, Mr. Dreadful! I had no IMRC codes either, just lean codes. Thanks for watching the video!
I have the heritage to , runs great for now , good luck
I'm having the same codes with my 02 4.2 liter. Too bad you can access them with out pulling the manifolds
Thank you so much, this video was a huge help. I was able to replace one of the retainer bushings and bank 1 without removing the upper manifold. It was a pain but your video helped a ton. Thanks again!
That's great, Brad. Thanks for watching and commenting.
If anyone else has ever done this we need a video proof of how you did that.
Just performed the same IMRC fix. (Bit easier w a rearview of the engine from an E250 doghouse, lol) but unbelievable the codes thrown from a 10¢ plastic bushing failing & popping off.
Any Ford owners experiencing rattling & loss of power under acceleration, I'd advise 1st take a peek at your IMRC actuators before spending tons of time & money. Not a lot of info on it out there besides "check your heat shields".
5 pack of "Dorman vacuum retainer bushings" for $10 (part# 47099), will save you a ton of headaches..
(Couldn't watch the whole video, but thanks for getting that part out there! 👊😎)
Thanks so much for watching, and for the helpful comments.
You're a patient man.
I bought a 1999 E-250 with that motor AND those codes. Drove it weekends for a couple months to finish the job I was doing; sold it for even money, never bothered to fix it. (Like you said, it ran fine.)
I imagine it's easier to do this job on an F-series, but still...
You're a patient man.
Oh yes, I'm very patient! I wonder if the IMRC module would be easier to access on the Econoline van since you could open up the dog house and get to the back side of the motor from inside the vehicle.... Water under the bridge, as they say, since you sold the van. Thanks for watching the video!
@@Buckwsr It is easier to access on the van. New bushings cost $8 at O'Reilly's.
I thought for sure the gasket got compromised looking like a race and very rough install..i'd bet is the reason the light came back on.
Thanks very much for the detailed work with part numbers, part names and locations!! Other sites were useless and I now have all I need to do the repair myself. I bought an 03 and a few days later noticed a small pool of coolant at the top front wondering if the intake or water pump now it might be a rusty coolant pipe the 90 degree one especially it's in that area and the truck came from Illinois and was in Hawaii a few years and has some rust which being in Vegas rust is rare. I don't have a check engine light on (yet?) after 100 miles and it passed smog. Great work and info you did thanks as I like to do everything myself. Liked all the comments and will use the motorcraft grommets you mentioned. TY TY TY!
You got to have a lot of patience to do all of that. And a good amount of mechanical skill from over the years. Looks like South Jersey somewhere. I'm from New Jersey as well around Edison
Thanks, William. I'm sure you saw the Jersey plates, but how did you guess South Jersey? You are correct. I live in Mount Laurel. Thanks for watching the video.
Great video. 👍👍👍👍 Tons of useful information here. Wise decision to do everything you can while it's opened up.
Great video. I have an 05 with a P2006 code (IMRC stuck closed) it runs fine and no check engine light, Think I'm going not just leave it alone.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to do the same repair. Smoke test indicates the lower intakes gaskets failed. Research indicates the Ford bushings (4) are better to go with even though 4-5 times the cost. Hope you have good luck with the HELP brand. Again great info brother.
Thanks, Glen!
Really very helpful. Thank you. Any issues with the injector electrical connectors? All of my retainer clips to secure the connection kept falling out.
Best I ever seen. Thank you. Great video sir.
Very kind of you! Glad it was a helpful video.
Irmc plastic bushings fail every 3 yrs or so it been for the 11 yrs I have had mine also while you have it tore apart make sure you replace any vacuum lines to look worn double-check your injectors all that stuff you normally can't get to to double-check whenever the intake manifold is on top
I just did mines thank to you sir. My imrc links were both off
I understand that the 6 small plenum gaskets need silicone lube to make them last/seal correctly.
I have a 2003 f150 4.2l i always replace the upper plenum gaskets along with the isolated bolts one thing i eember is that qhen u bolt down the plenum gaskets it has it oreder or else that code will come back
I have the same problem with those plastic things breaking. Did it fix your problem?
dont forget to replace the isolater bolts and new grommets.
Great video Buck. It gave me hope today that I might do the job myself. I have a great running 1997 F150 4.2L V6.
HOWEVER, it is throwing P1513, IMRC2. "STUCK CLOSED"
After research I believe the plastic clip on the passenger side Right Bank may be accessible to pop in if it did indeed break.
I have also learned it could be a vacuum solenoid not deenergizing above 3000 RPM - upon which the vacuum is then released allowing the butterfly to spring open.
if I remove the power assembly connected to the right of the battery on the fire wall might I with a mirror see and access the clip housing for the rod?
If not it becomes a trade off between a price to have a good shop to the job plus a little more vs. me doing in the driveway! Rain makes me wonder if I can or should remove the hood should I do such a project? What is a fair price to have a good shop replace both IMRC Banks 1 & 2? PS, I took all the AC crap out when I purchased the truck 3 years ago so I have some increased accessibility to the BANK 2 area. But it all seems daunting to actually try to fix it without pulling off the manifold! And that is no easy task for a 1st time pull off project like you just did.
Thanks for your help as my inspection month is Feb. 2023! From Cape May NJ.
Thanks for the note, Thomas. I don't think removing the hood will be necessary. But I do think you'll at least need to pull the upper plenum, but not the lower intake manifold. Once you remove the plenum (bolts in the back are a pain to access), you'll be able to see the IMRC mechanism, and it should be immediately obvious if the control rods have popped out. I'm sure there's got to be a way to test the functionality of the IMRC control motor, but I'm not sure how to do that. For me, the bank 1 lean code has returned, and so the check engine light is back on. I'm wondering if the control rod popped out again. I wish I had bought the genuine motorcraft bushings instead of the dorman. But I'm not due for inspection till October, so I'm not going to worry about it for now. Good luck.
@@Buckwsr Thanks!
Thank you a lot... I have one plastic broke .. replace both
I just got done doing this job and when I turned the truck on I had a code for P1518 runners stuck open I even installed a new actuator 🤦🏻♂️I was devastated that I now have to take it all apart and figure out why it’s not working
Bummer. Maybe just take off the upper plenum, and not the entire intake manifold. You should be able (still a challenge) to access everything that way. Good luck.
I have a 1999 F150 with the 4.2 engine. I was wondering where the cover is that belongs on top of the fan shroud. That opening will allow air to go around the radiator instead of being pulled through. I have one but the truck you're working on doesn't. Just asking!
Good question. It was not there when I bought the truck, and I still don't have it. I did have to secure the top of the radiator with some wire, but it has been perfectly fine. Thanks.
Good video having same trouble. What was cost for parts. How long did it take u to complete job. Very clear video.
I can't remember how long it took....I had the liberty to park the truck and do the project over a period of days. I have links in the description to the parts on Amazon, and there you will see the prices. You may find them cheaper elsewhere. In retrospect, I'd skip the Dorman IMRC bushings and try to find genuine motorcraft. That's the only thing I'd do differently. Good luck.
Would you know if this IMRC valve could be the reason for my muffler being glowing red hot and power loss , and erratic idleing , and strong sent of gasoline
I would doubt very much that the IMRC is in any way related to the problems you are experiencing. First thing that comes to my mind would be a plugged-up exhausted.....
Bought an 03 with 174,000miles.. around what miles do these usually fail? Hopefully they've been replaced already. I noticed the smell of coolant and see some pooling above the water pump the weep hole always dry..the heater core hose is right there too and has a radiator clamp that was loose i tightened..all good now but will keep checking..
Bought myself an 03 as well this month, my brother mention that the truck sounds like a diesel, so that how you know they broken.
What about the seal around the lever that goes into the manifold. Those seals wear and leak and trigger the lean codes.
I was thinking the same. No one mentions that in their vids.
Replaced these clips twice already. Keep warping from heat and popping out.
I've had my 97 for about a year now. I've been involved with it since 97. My father in-laws old truck. I have all the maintenance records. Everything is cherry. Only 132k miles now. Bought it with 128k. Anything I should keep an eye out for? Same motor. 4.2. Still can't believe I only paid 3k
Yes, it's a great truck. Mine has a few things that need to be fixed....rear brakes, leaking windshield, new radio speakers, and other little things like that, which I may or may not get around too any time soon. We'll see. Good luck, and thanks for watching the videos.
Was that p0171 and p0174 the only codes you were getting from the truck. Because my truck the same year make and model is giving off 5 codes (p0303, p0171, p0316, p0304, and p0301) I was wondering if you think that code would also cause those 4 misfires that I am getting. Would hate to waste more money trying to figure this one out.
Lean codes (P0171 and P0174) can be caused by many things. Vacuum leak would be at the top of that list. I would definitely focus first on solving the misfire codes. Do a little research online for the codes you're getting. You can learn a lot that way. Good luck.
Great video!
I am suspecting this happened to mine as well. I have a 2004 ford mustang 3.9 v6 and it does have a TSB on this issue. I can not see back there...I tried mirrors to no luck so I think I'm going to take the plenum off and see from there....can I see when I take the plenum off or will I need to take the lower intake off as well to see? Also did you notice a slight shake at idle with this issue? I am noticing a slight shake at idle and my trims aren't terrible but not good either bank 2 is +11% at idle while bank 1 is +4
I don't think you'll need to remove the lower intake manifold. Just remove the plenum and you'll see what you need to see. Still might be a pain to access the IMRC, but it won't be impossible. You might want to get the genuine motorcraft parts, which will hold up better than the cheap Dorman bushings I used. Thanks for watching the video, and good luck!
@@Buckwsr thank you Buck. You have a great channel
Can the module go bad because I just replaced those white bushings and it’s still throwing the code?
I'm sure the module could be faulty, but I don't know how exactly to check it. Maybe with a high-end scan tool? Most of us DIYers don't have one of those.....
I have the same codes on my 2003. How long of a job is this? Any other surprises? I'm in DE so it's not passing either with the light on.
I dragged the repair out over several days because I don't have a garage, and it was winter, so I was dependent on cooperative weather. Also, if your problem is just the IMRC links coming off, then you might get away with just removing the upper intake and not the lower. It will be pain to replace those plastic bushings without removing the lower intake, but not impossible. I went ahead and pulled the lower intake, as you know from viewing the video. Thanks for watching!
But you never got the P2004 IMRC Code? you only got the system to lean codes?
Correct. Only lean codes. That's all I got.
Thank you @@Buckwsr
If you we're to guess - What's the approximate swap time on just doing the plenum & isolator bolts?
(won't you to it, lol. Just an approx), thnx
A couple of hours, anyway. I really can't remember at this point... Good luck.
@@Buckwsr thanks for the response. Managed it in 4.5hrs in an E250 tryna beat the week of rain heading our way tomorrow. Lots of circling around front and back in a cargo van, and I'm plain beat now lol.. hr of that cleaning the clamshell, lower, and EGR ports best I could..(only plus was easy access to imrc/bushings & removing the upper from the doghouse side.. Purring like a kitten on start up now. Codes cleared. Appreciate the video, big help 👍
That's a beautiful truck
Hi I have a 1998 Ford F150 with the 4.2 V6 and it's got both codes P0171 & P0174 so what you just did to yours do you think that might be the problem with mine and yes my truck seams to be running fine the only thing that I am concerned about is the gas mileage will those codes cause my truck to burn more gas than normal ?
There are other causes of lean codes besides the ones addressed in this video. Could be vacuum leaks, for example, or intake manifold leaks. A smoke test would reveal those. I would certainly look into that before tearing things apart. It might be an easy fix...
I'm not sure about the impact of those code on gas mileage. Likely you'll burn more as the computer enrichens the mixture since the sensors are reading lean.
So what happens if you don't replace the metal rubber gaskets
Do you mean the intake manifold gaskets? Don't go to all this work just to slap old gaskets back on the engine. Always use new ones. They're not very expensive.
What did you use to clean all the ports?
Don't tell anyone, but I soaked the entire lower intake manifold is old gasoline. Then used an old toothbrush and scrubbed it all down. (I do a lot of lawn mower repair, so I end up often with cans of old gas. Works great for a parts cleaner.) Shhhh...keep it a secret...
What does it affect, or can the trucks run well?
In my opinion, the most notable inconvenience was the lighting of the check engine light which makes it impossible to pass state inspection. Beyond that, I cannot discern any change in the performance of the engine. Some say your gas mileage will suffer. I don't know. I just needed to pass inspection. Thanks for watching the video!
@@Buckwsr I don't want that light on my board, thank you very much for your answer.
Have not did mine yet. Noticed small loss in power.ans gas mileage went down a little.
do you know how to fix a po code 174
P0171 (lean bank 1) and P0174 (lean bank 2) can be caused by a number of issues. Often it's a vacuum leak. Google the code you've got for a complete list of what can cause it, and ideas on how to fix it.
So typical for Ford to use plastic. If that was a Toyota or Lexus it would have sealed roller bearings that would never fail.
Why couldn't we just open the butterflies permanently and leter eat!
Gd job
Thank you!
Good job I have a econoline van with the 4.2 if you think the 5.4 is crap this had to be the worst motor ever put in those vans I had all these problems and more from this gutless motor.i cursed ford out and bought a Chevy
Have fun with the Chevy. I'm still more of a Ford guy. Had a great Ford work van, which I loved. Now this pick-up, which I picked-up (small pun) for pretty cheap. And my RV is built on the Ford F53 chassis with the 460 V8.
@@Buckwsr I am so far it’s a duramax 6.6 Chevy express has all the torque I need in a van.both platforms have their downsides but I prefer the engines in the Chevy,how much would you charge for job like that my 4.2 only has 120k miles but it’s sitting because of these issues
@@voiceofreason7119 lol good luck with that engine. Hope it does not Blow up like all my friends service vans did
where can i get the intake manifold bolts at? i tried to use the old once and i didnt even get to 15 pounds and one broke.
Inch pounds not foot pounds. Big difference
Just did the upper manifold gaskets...AGAIN...had p0171and P0174..was a vacuum leak cuz whats the chance BOTH O2 sensors go bad at the same time?? ...Had the IMRC issue too with those stupid plastic clips..another code for that! Still, love my truck and even though it's slow and can't haul a house, she's a reliable, smooth with a 5 spd, still fun to drive!! Nice video, nice job!
Yeah, it's a great truck. I really like mine, too.
I have a nm torque wrench, should I be using a 5nm or are they the same
you can probably find an online tool to convert Newton meters to foot or inch pounds