First Start Checklist on new Engine Rebuild
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- First start on a new engine rebuild can be extremely stressful. But it doesn't need to be! I'll show you how I do it and how I keep thing in order so it doesn't give me a heart attack!
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#breakin #carburetor #checklist
Just did a break in on my 67 Skylark last month. It almost feels like having a baby. Scared, nervous , and hoping for the best.
That’s accurate. 😆
Specially filling the fuel bowls on the carburetor. 👍
Yup. Very over looked. Just takes an extra minute to fill them and help the fuel pump and system get caught up.
The pucker factor is real! Getting real close on my build. Appreciate the video, the timing of it was perfect for me.
😆 I don’t think that will ever change. Best of luck on yours!
Use only plain water in the rad for breakin because if you have a leak in the head, water is easier on parts to fix than having antifreeze inside an engine with bearings etc.😢
I just installed a Comp cams hydraulic roller retrofit with the evolution lifters,in my 1974 K20 with a 454 my original push rods are too long comp said it takes there retrofit shorter push rods should have them tomorrow, and doing the first start soon, glad I watched this video I didn't realize a roller Cam had a break in, keep the videos coming
The Evolution lifters have been amazing so far. Much more quiet than a traditional roller. One suggestion. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! The evolution has a different lash from zero than others. The break in is not nearly as complicated as a flat tappet, but anytime you have new parts, it’s a good idea to use a break in oil for all those new parts - especially rings.
Thanks a lot of good stuff to know. 😊
It’s a stressful operation. 😆 No matter how many times we do it.
Good info here!
Hopefully initial start up went well for ya!!
Love the content on this channel.
Just installed all the off road up grades that Edelbrock has (learned from your previous videos) and set both floats for my new avs2 1901 for the jeep. Will probably be installing this week.
Nice! Off road set ups can be a little more tricky, but no more difficult than setting up a street car. Hopefully you’ve got a pressure regulator in the system as well. Sometimes the off road side does better on the low side of the pressure range. You’ll get it sorted out with a little time. Best of luck!
Yes, have the pressure regulator and fuel filters installed as well, following your suggestions from your previous videos. Love your channel, great info. Thanks again.
@@DC-vx6ed you’ve got the winning combo! Just let me know if you run into any issues/questions. Always happy to help where I can. I appreciate your comments. Thank you!
Great video I wish I was as patient
Completely understood. 😆
Very good info. Especially about "over doing" the oil priming and removing the assembly lube!
Fantastic wisdom.
Thank you for your help and guidance.
I’ve learned from some great mentors in the last 40 years. 👍
@@julianjennings4638 Speaking of “removing” assembly lube, just how long would said lube stay intact? I have a fresh build that has been sitting in the hole while other things around it were being taken care of. Engine is wrapped, but I wonder? Plus I’m in PHX AZ and it gets hot. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
its just chaos when i do it lol
I need to avoid that in my life. 😆
Also, make sure your your temperature sensor is connected. Make sure your transmission TV cable is connected. Make sure your alternator belt is not too long, so you have some adjustment. The shorter the belt, the better.
😆
i bet this guy is fun at partys
Great video. I'm getting close on my International Harvester 345 v8. I'm haunted by all the things that can go wrong.
For sure if it’s a flat tappet engine the list gets longer and much more labor intensive. Good luck on your initial start up!
Me watching this trying to make sure everything is perfect lol
It’s always an anxious time. 😆 Best of luck!
What if the motor (new rebuild) sat for a few years . Still do the starter thing oil pump thing ?
That’s a tough one. I did a video on assembly lubes to see how long they would stay in place over a short period of time and the results were interesting. If it’s sat for that long, you’ll just have to take your chances on initial start and hope the break in oil is enough. I’d probably prime it for a few minutes to make sure.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I also have to take the harmonic balancer . As I don't think it was put on at TDC. (Thank you for the video it that reminded me !! ).
It probably doesn't need to be but I was told by an old timer it's good practice.
What did he say? I'm in the same situation.
Cool video!!! 😎very informative!!!
Thank you!!!
Nice! Glad you liked it.
Great advice. Getting close to firing my 440 freshy. I heard that you can ruin coated headers during a break in though? I was going to break it in on a run stand with some old headers first then instal with correct headers.
It’s more of a lean issue. The leaner the engine runs, the hotter the exhaust and the worse it is. I’m generally ok on carb set up to keep it on the rich side. But yeah if you have the opportunity it’s not a bad thing to break in on something you don’t care about long term.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I see. That does make me nervous as I don’t have a carb yet and will have to buy a new one that hasn’t been run. It definitely going to be a lot more work as we have to build the run stand but it will make finding and fixing leaks a little bit easier. I was also planning on pulling the windage tray and that would be such a pain to do in the car.
@@rikubot whatever you go with, just ask around from folks who have some knowledge on how to fatten it up a little and you’ll be fine. But yeah a run stand has a ton of upside to it!
@@MuscleCarSolutions I very much appreciate the information. Not a lot of builders around here that know what they’re doing. Including myself in that lol.
Im sure you mentioned it in a previous video but when adjusting the floats, should it be a 7/16 with air horn upside down?
That’s correct. That will set the full level.
Hi just watched your first start upload. Just a question on the break in oil ? do you have a percentage of break in oil with the recommended oil I will use and leave in the engine or full about of break in oil and then drain out after break in is complete ? Then add the recommended oil for the engine ?.
Brilliant channel and great advice and helpful knowledge thank you 👍
There is no mix on oils. On initial start up, use break in oil. After initial and drain, back in with break in for the next 3-400 miles and then you can switch to your regular duty oil after that. I appreciate you stopping by!
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you I'm clear on the process now 👍
I did an interview with Driven Racing Oil a few years ago and we discussed break in oil. Along with a separate video on choosing the right oil for a muscle car. Both had good break in info if you’re interested. Thank you!!
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks I'll look for the video 👍
Nice video on Your GMC Informative What CFM carburetor are you running on your GMC?
Thanks for informing on the carburetor
Have a 650 AVS2 to begin with. Still have lots of content I need to address with that carburetor.
Is your heater hose connected to your radiator overflow?
No. I don’t think I could neck down a 5/8” hose down that small!
You must have left the water temp wire of yer list,,,,lol
Keys ,Wallet, Phone.
😂😂
@@MuscleCarSolutions Sorry , Wife has me trained, as far as checklists go.
99% Good advice. Recheck flywheel bolts?🤔
If you’re ambitious enough to pull the trans, clutch and hydraulics/mechanical linkage to check flywheel bolts, you’re a better man than I.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I was being good naturedly sarcastic. YOU said to recheck your flywheel bolts...Like I said, 99% Good advice.
Did I? I guess that’s what happens when you don’t write a word for word script like some do. Converter bolts, 100%. Flywheel? I ain’t got time fo that! 😂
Priming the oil.---Don't you want to confirm oil to the top end?
And wash away all the initial start up protection that the assembly lube provides? No. If that’s a concern, assemble the engine with just oil, then spin the pump to verify oiling to the top end, then tear it down and use assembly lube. I’d much rather have that initial protection that the lube provides.