Andrew Ellis Nah mate lol not gold. I have 2 unissued M39 rifles, an unissued Hungarian 91/30, an M44 that I put a brand new barrel on at a cost of $1000AUD and an M38 that is a bit beat up. If anything the M38 would make a good candidate for the surplus ammo coz the barrel is not perfect. The other rifles all have pristine barrells and I'm just keen to keep them that way lol
First time uses, be aware that ballistol has a "unique" odor. Kind of like pine and fish, it is hard to pin down. Use it outside or in the garage. It is also good to soften leather. The smell does go away in a few days.
Thanks for that. I have been offered old ammo before but everyone had given me the boiling water cleaning method which was just to much hassle. This looks much more sensible....
this is actually nice to know. in the states people tend to use windex or simple green. Found 8mm rounds for about .40c/round so I may buy them and use this method.
When moving out of my old place my flatmate told me hes gonna miss allmost everything about me...exept for the constant smell of Ballistol in my room...funny hof I felt about him and the smell of pot:D
Nice recommendations- having bought surplus ammo for my M1, decided to buy bolt action 30.06 since easier to clean off salts and velocity is hotter than recommend.
Ballistol comes in a few flavors, in the USA it seems to have extra chemicals added. In Germany the red is what is found in gun stores. It has been used since prior to WWI and is derived from Coal oil. The red was also bought by physical therapist for their practice, and butcher’s for cleaning their tools. Blue was medical and available only in drug stores on request. Yellow had additives for treating your pets ears, paws, and small wounds. I use it on vintage arms, as hoppe’s contains petroleum and not good with black powder. I also use an old US mix of 1/3 hydrogen peroxide, 1/3 rubbing alcohol, and 1/3 Murphy oil soap on vintage arms before wiping down with Ballistol for storage.
My question is when do soliders get the time in cleaning their firearm in middle of battle? How many corrosive rounds can be used during combat before we get the chance in cleaning our guns for machine gun, rifle and pistol?
Tried this. It actually works! Rigged up a cutaway jug w/plastic hose that fits in chamber and trickles a 75/25 mix of Ballistol (one gallon jug) and hot water, then clean bolt with same then regular cleaning. Know water temp is"not supposed to matter" but salts dissolve better in warm water. No worries about all the vintage ammo I have for my milsurps.
You use the exact same method I have used for years. I used to use the old Young's Black powder solvent which was also quite good and mixed 50/50 with water; then it got rather hard to get and very pricey and I switched to ballistol. I don't know why some people don't like the smell of Ballistol. It kind of reminds me of Playdough. Young's and the old US Army issue solvent for corrosive ammunition was truly vile smelling in my opinion.
Great tip. Thanks a lot. Never used Ballistol but have heard good things about it. The guy with the Sweet's 7.62 tip is right too, but i could never stand its strong ammonia smell.
Troy Ortega sweets is incredible stuff though. I bought it on a whim at a gun show and decided to go at my mosin with the stuff. Apparently had a lot of 70 year old fouling that wasn't ever cleaned out and became impregnated. Revealed some slight pitting but was like a new barrel after a couple hours
Best way to treat at the range is always bring non-corrosive ammo with you. When finished shooting corrosive ammo, then shoot a few rounds of non-corrosive. That blows out all the corrosive chemicals. I still run a rod when I am home, but no rush.
best video - it works (not so surprisingly if it was intended by Ballistol) before that i used thick and sticky cranecable grease and just greased so thick over the cloride that the barrel was sealed against air inside i allways had to use a blank and 2 pads before feeling convenient to make a shot with live rounds... i still do that after cleaning when i know that im not going to use/inspect a gun for a season or longer
I user windex myself, works well for same reason as yours the water. The tiny amount of ammonia will work on copper but not much I think as it does not stay in very long! I clean at the bench then light oil and clean again at home (the light oil is so in case I do not get to do a full clean same day.)
With the gun rested upside-down, I use pure water on wad of patches pushes several times trough the bore, dry with a boresnake, and finish with normal cleaning/oiling. Saves on the Ballistol. And checking the next day is still a must with this system.
I use Sweet's 7.62 Solvent.This stuff is really strong and gets that corrosive stuff and copper fouling out quick.I use it on my Mauser rifles because of the old 7mm and 7.92mm ammo ranging from pre-WWI to post WWII Turkish surplus ammo.My Smelly appreciates this solvent because i used to shoot it with British RDG and Pakistani surplus .303.I first run it through the bore with a wet patch of the Sweet's to get the powder junk out first and let it sit inside the bore wet for a minute or two and scrub the bore with a stainless steel brush.Never use a bronze or copper brush because the Sweet's will eat both metals real quick.After the bore has been run through with a stainless steel brush a couple dozen times then punch through with a wet patch again and it will turn to a bluish color meaning it ate majority of the copper and some black from the powder.Keep punching through with dry patches until it's clean.Once its clean i shoot the bore down with brake cleaner and patch it through then the bore is clean and put some oil down the shiny bore.Reminder also is never use the Sweet's with chrome lined bores because it also eats through chrome too.
You can use break cleaner to spray down the copper or bronze brushes, also helps keep them clean from powder fouling. Imo i'd use nylon instead of stainless steel since that's a rather harsh material on rifle bores. Some people who meticulously clean there rifles with stainless steel brushes have ruined there rifle bores from using stainless steel according to Eric Cortina, i've never personally experinced this but he has ALOT more range time than me and has a rather large audience he knows/chats with.
@@jacksonthompson7099 I think I will use the plastic brushes. The solvent solution is very strong, much after the blue stuff is wiped down it's done its job.
@@reddevilparatrooper good to hear, only time imo a stainless steel brush is warranted is if the bore has significant rust deep in the steel. I have a USMC RIA rebuild that needs the either a stainless steel brush or a rather long soak in evaporust to save it but my gut is telling me the bore is too far gone. Gotta figure out a effective plug to be able to plug the bore and let the evaporust sit for at least 12 hours.
@@jacksonthompson7099 You might have to cover the front barrel and seal that end. A plug wouldn't work because of the grooves at the crown of the muzzle.
What I usually do when i have surplus for my mosin. I shoot all i want of it. Send 3-5patches through the barrel. Then shoot ab 10-20 rounds of non corrosive ammo after. Then send one patch through again. And every other time i do this(I usually always shoot non corrosive ammo like wolf ammo) ill send a patch with some bore cleaner. I havent had a problem with it since i bought it. And the bore looked terrible then but after good shootings and a bunch of patches and bore oil the rifling can clearly bee seen and shines perfectly
David Salazar Garand is gas operated. More complex and you will get corrosion in the gas system. I wouldn't recommend shooting corrosive in garand. I use only in bolt action.
GunFun ZS, even in Germany Ballistol is a bit expensive if bought over the counter. You can order Ballistol online, though, and receive a discount. Brings the price down considerably (per ml).
Everyone seems to have their way of doing this, so far I’ve heard; 1) Boiling water/ dish soap 2) Boiling water 3) Windex / water 4) just water Am I missing something ?
What's the common feature of all these things? Water. They all work, since there's water in all of them. I just find that Ballistol/Water mix is far easier, quicker and less messy than all these other methods, and isn't much worse than doing a full clean with non-corrosive.
@@BlokeontheRange ooof official response. Yeah I kinda noticed that as well. Interesting how everyone has their own way. Any old military literature regarding this? Always wanted to know the official old way.
After watching the inrange video on barrels and stuff is it possible to get replacement barrels for older rifles like mosin's enfields and that sort of thing or do you need to get them specially made up.
Mosins are so cheap, I don't think there would be a market for it. Enfields, maybe. You can always have a barrel done up from a barrel blank, which is more affordable than you might think. I know people who do that for custom oddball projects.
Surplus corrosive? tons, though the huge uptick in gun users in the USA, 'tactical' rapid shooting, and general hoarding has really put a dent in the stock likely to be available. I think we will see the bulk of the cheap stuff dissapear within the decade. That would be mitigated as militaries rotate out their old stock, but the practice of selling to the public is being undermined.
Works for ARs too ? I have lot of corrosive ammo and my MK47 gets rusty, is it ok to spray it all ( bolt, bore, muzzle device ) ? I dont want to clean it after every use, I would just like to avoid corrosion. Thanks
I think this way there will be over use/ consumption of ballistol. If gun is cleaned thoroughly with warm water or soapy water and then ballistol is applied properly, it will be good , IMO.
Ballistol never mix completely in water . It makes a suspension type solution. Also when this mixture is applied to salts contaminated arms, water does not thoroughly come in contact with metal surface due to oily nature of ballistol, so salts are not solved and washed properly.
@jk are you by any chance an economist? Cos that's a real "OK so experience shows clearly that it works very well indeed in practice, but I've got a theory as to why it shouldn't, and my theory is more important". And "suspension type solution".... What's that? Cos a suspension and a solution are two completely different things... It forms an emulsion, which is a fine dispersion of drops of one liquid in another.
In any case, to demolish your theory with some basic physical chemistry: the miniscule droplets of oil are surrounded in the water, which is the medium in which the oil droplets float. So it's not possible for the oil to come into intimate contact with the steel without the water doing so too.
Brennan Bennett the Soviets used corrosively primed ammo right up to the end. Very reliable and temperature insensitive. The companies that used to sell mil-surp ammo liked to call it "sure-fire"
Priming compound recipies were big trade secret stuff. Winchester gave their superior formula / method of production to the allies in WWII at no charge. That moved everyone into the modern non-corrosive era. It's hard to calculate how much money that would have been. It also made a huge difference in the consistency of primer potency and reliability which is the basis of most modern firearms. Notice how we aren't really selling guns based on their mitigation factors for weak or over pressure ammo? Those used to be a major deal. Half the selling points of mausers, etc. were gas venting. Then they came out with standard winchester formula primers and IMR type dual base powders, and the rest is history.
Some M-1 carbine ammo around with fake L C 52 headstamp coming in white boxes marked with only 30 M1 Carbine. This is fake, Chinese made, supposedly in 1960's. Very corrosive, Berdan not Boxer primed, and primers not well crimped in often coming out when round fired. Shoots ok otherwise, just make certain gas system well cleaned.
it was cheaper and back then they hadnt the chemical supplies to make huge scales of these primers (the swiss were some of the first worldwide to go with non corrosive ammo -1911) The commies had some problems with producing it and it was cheaper There was even corrosive hunting ammo from the UDSSR, China and Jugoslavia the compound for non corosive ammo was instabile when it was invented and you needed really clean powder anyway back then there was some acid residue in the powder from the nitrating process -wich was totally fine (except if it desolved or lighted the powder chemically) since you had to clean the rifle anyway because of the corrosive primers
Or you can be like my friend and just never look down your bore, ever. Drives me nuts. I hate to think what most of his guns must look like if you took a peek down the bore.
Yeah buddy, love that Ballistol!! Have a sub. In winter I use it straight up (a little goes a long way) to lube and prevent corrosion in my guns gas tubes, but other wise I use it at 10% product and 90% water, it works awesome. Once the water evaporates it leaves a wonderful thin film behind and it makes my wood stocks beautiful as well. But it does kind of smell like a newborns puke, don't you think?
“A quick and easy way to deal with corrosive ammo”, informative video but a little misleading… I was actually looking for a way to clean 45 loose 9mm slightly corroded rounds before use. Wouldn’t dare run those through the chamber in the condition they’re in. 🤷🏻♂️ only killed 3 minutes though 😉
@@BlokeontheRange crazy man say, huh?! 😆 I used the term corroded in reference to the rounds I have; the word corrosive was used in your video title; which I quoted. 😉 But, yeah…
I have 12,000 rounds of surplus 7.62x54R that I have been reluctant to shoot...
You have helped solve my problem. Thanks mate.
That's.. well that's just impressive.
Farouk Kamali Sarvestani why? Is your M91/30 barrel lined with gold?
Seriously? It just means you need to clean that shit which you should be doing anyway.
Andrew Ellis Nah mate lol not gold. I have 2 unissued M39 rifles, an unissued Hungarian 91/30, an M44 that I put a brand new barrel on at a cost of $1000AUD and an M38 that is a bit beat up.
If anything the M38 would make a good candidate for the surplus ammo coz the barrel is not perfect. The other rifles all have pristine barrells and I'm just keen to keep them that way lol
.rzr Cheers mate 😁
Burglars Be Warned!
BLOKE SHOWERS WITH HIS RIFLE!
Doesn't everyone? No one likes to sleep with a dirty rifle.
i have....
First time uses, be aware that ballistol has a "unique" odor. Kind of like pine and fish, it is hard to pin down. Use it outside or in the garage. It is also good to soften leather. The smell does go away in a few days.
i love that smell ^^
Few days?? So no apartment use...
smells like stinky feet. I gave it to a friend. Hoppes for me.
@@achimaugust1320Thats what she said!
Most things smell what's the issue here?
I love Ballistol. The stuff works great.
When it comes to cleaning my AK from corrosive primers I just use the local pond. :)
Thanks for that. I have been offered old ammo before but everyone had given me the boiling water cleaning method which was just to much hassle.
This looks much more sensible....
this is actually nice to know. in the states people tend to use windex or simple green. Found 8mm rounds for about .40c/round so I may buy them and use this method.
Ammonia can actually damage in the long run
Just picked up my first surplus rifle, a beautiful 1940 steyr made K98, buying some ballistol now, thanks!
When moving out of my old place my flatmate told me hes gonna miss allmost everything about me...exept for the constant smell of Ballistol in my room...funny hof I felt about him and the smell of pot:D
Nice recommendations- having bought surplus ammo for my M1, decided to buy bolt action 30.06 since easier to clean off salts and velocity is hotter than recommend.
I can't believe I didn't think of that. Thanks mate.
Ballistol comes in a few flavors, in the USA it seems to have extra chemicals added. In Germany the red is what is found in gun stores. It has been used since prior to WWI and is derived from Coal oil. The red was also bought by physical therapist for their practice, and butcher’s for cleaning their tools. Blue was medical and available only in drug stores on request. Yellow had additives for treating your pets ears, paws, and small wounds. I use it on vintage arms, as hoppe’s contains petroleum and not good with black powder. I also use an old US mix of 1/3 hydrogen peroxide, 1/3 rubbing alcohol, and 1/3 Murphy oil soap on vintage arms before wiping down with Ballistol for storage.
When using questionable ammo, its a good course of action to clean your bore and internals three times afterward.
My question is when do soliders get the time in cleaning their firearm in middle of battle? How many corrosive rounds can be used during combat before we get the chance in cleaning our guns for machine gun, rifle and pistol?
Tried this. It actually works! Rigged up a cutaway jug w/plastic hose that fits in chamber and trickles a 75/25 mix of Ballistol (one gallon jug) and hot water, then clean bolt with same then regular cleaning. Know water temp is"not supposed to matter" but salts dissolve better in warm water. No worries about all the vintage ammo I have for my milsurps.
Old gun publications recommended hot soapy water to clean bore, then light oiling.
You use the exact same method I have used for years. I used to use the old Young's Black powder solvent which was also quite good and mixed 50/50 with water; then it got rather hard to get and very pricey and I switched to ballistol. I don't know why some people don't like the smell of Ballistol. It kind of reminds me of Playdough. Young's and the old US Army issue solvent for corrosive ammunition was truly vile smelling in my opinion.
Great tip. Thanks a lot. Never used Ballistol but have heard good things about it. The guy with the Sweet's 7.62 tip is right too, but i could never stand its strong ammonia smell.
Troy Ortega sweets is incredible stuff though. I bought it on a whim at a gun show and decided to go at my mosin with the stuff. Apparently had a lot of 70 year old fouling that wasn't ever cleaned out and became impregnated. Revealed some slight pitting but was like a new barrel after a couple hours
Ballistol will never die. 😉
Best way to treat at the range is always bring non-corrosive ammo with you. When finished shooting corrosive ammo, then shoot a few rounds of non-corrosive. That blows out all the corrosive chemicals. I still run a rod when I am home, but no rush.
Thanks Mate!
best video - it works (not so surprisingly if it was intended by Ballistol)
before that i used thick and sticky cranecable grease and just greased so thick over the cloride that the barrel was sealed against air inside
i allways had to use a blank and 2 pads before feeling convenient to make a shot with live rounds...
i still do that after cleaning when i know that im not going to use/inspect a gun for a season or longer
Good tip.Thanks!
I user windex myself, works well for same reason as yours the water. The tiny amount of ammonia will work on copper but not much I think as it does not stay in very long! I clean at the bench then light oil and clean again at home (the light oil is so in case I do not get to do a full clean same day.)
Thanks bloke! Now I can shoot of that 7.62x54r surplus.
With the gun rested upside-down, I use pure water on wad of patches pushes several times trough the bore, dry with a boresnake, and finish with normal cleaning/oiling. Saves on the Ballistol. And checking the next day is still a must with this system.
An old blackpowder shooter I used to know (sadly no longer with us) used to swear by Formula 409.
If boil water though you can make tea!
Ballistol is a miracle product.
Good looking Rifle. Military Surplus Guns are Old World Cool
I use Sweet's 7.62 Solvent.This stuff is really strong and gets that corrosive stuff and copper fouling out quick.I use it on my Mauser rifles because of the old 7mm and 7.92mm ammo ranging from pre-WWI to post WWII Turkish surplus ammo.My Smelly appreciates this solvent because i used to shoot it with British RDG and Pakistani surplus .303.I first run it through the bore with a wet patch of the Sweet's to get the powder junk out first and let it sit inside the bore wet for a minute or two and scrub the bore with a stainless steel brush.Never use a bronze or copper brush because the Sweet's will eat both metals real quick.After the bore has been run through with a stainless steel brush a couple dozen times then punch through with a wet patch again and it will turn to a bluish color meaning it ate majority of the copper and some black from the powder.Keep punching through with dry patches until it's clean.Once its clean i shoot the bore down with brake cleaner and patch it through then the bore is clean and put some oil down the shiny bore.Reminder also is never use the Sweet's with chrome lined bores because it also eats through chrome too.
Sounds terrible
You can use break cleaner to spray down the copper or bronze brushes, also helps keep them clean from powder fouling. Imo i'd use nylon instead of stainless steel since that's a rather harsh material on rifle bores.
Some people who meticulously clean there rifles with stainless steel brushes have ruined there rifle bores from using stainless steel according to Eric Cortina, i've never personally experinced this but he has ALOT more range time than me and has a rather large audience he knows/chats with.
@@jacksonthompson7099 I think I will use the plastic brushes. The solvent solution is very strong, much after the blue stuff is wiped down it's done its job.
@@reddevilparatrooper good to hear, only time imo a stainless steel brush is warranted is if the bore has significant rust deep in the steel. I have a USMC RIA rebuild that needs the either a stainless steel brush or a rather long soak in evaporust to save it but my gut is telling me the bore is too far gone. Gotta figure out a effective plug to be able to plug the bore and let the evaporust sit for at least 12 hours.
@@jacksonthompson7099 You might have to cover the front barrel and seal that end. A plug wouldn't work because of the grooves at the crown of the muzzle.
What I usually do when i have surplus for my mosin. I shoot all i want of it. Send 3-5patches through the barrel. Then shoot ab 10-20 rounds of non corrosive ammo after. Then send one patch through again. And every other time i do this(I usually always shoot non corrosive ammo like wolf ammo) ill send a patch with some bore cleaner. I havent had a problem with it since i bought it. And the bore looked terrible then but after good shootings and a bunch of patches and bore oil the rifling can clearly bee seen and shines perfectly
Have always used just boiling water and never an issue. When rechecked the day or week after never had any sweating out or residue.
That's what's nice about Switzerland, heavy metals, ground contaminations, ... it's all OK.
So you mean bullets in the ground? ;)
Btw. Ballistol is a good, old german Brand. I love it
Ballistol is the "cats meow".
OMG... it's the water not the Balistol that washes the corrosive salts away... Same thing for those guys who insist ammonia or windex..
thank you! now I can shoot surplus ammo in my garand.
www.omahas.com/ww2-bore-cleaner-6oz-can#.WPpx6Gnytpg
Will also work and is US Issue.
David Salazar Garand is gas operated. More complex and you will get corrosion in the gas system. I wouldn't recommend shooting corrosive in garand. I use only in bolt action.
Is that your range?
Man I wish I could get Ballistol in gallon cans! I have never had a bad experience with 10:1 and 7n6.
I've never once seen the stuff in a store, though every internet guy seems to pour it on his breakfast cereal.
Bloke on the Range bought ballistol on a lark, so glad I did!
GunFun ZS, even in Germany Ballistol is a bit expensive if bought over the counter. You can order Ballistol online, though, and receive a discount. Brings the price down considerably (per ml).
They do sell a gallon tin
i just shoot a few rounds of non corrosive ammo through the rifle it has never failed me
got any plans to do a video on the ross rifle?
Forgotten Weapons cut his teeth on those. Look for his early videos.
i think i will
+1 to Ian, also C&Rsenal have a great ross episode.
Could just use windex in the same way and no odd smell
Everyone seems to have their way of doing this, so far I’ve heard;
1) Boiling water/ dish soap
2) Boiling water
3) Windex / water
4) just water
Am I missing something ?
What's the common feature of all these things? Water. They all work, since there's water in all of them. I just find that Ballistol/Water mix is far easier, quicker and less messy than all these other methods, and isn't much worse than doing a full clean with non-corrosive.
@@BlokeontheRange ooof official response. Yeah I kinda noticed that as well. Interesting how everyone has their own way. Any old military literature regarding this? Always wanted to know the official old way.
Bloke, would Rem Oil be a usable substitute for Ballistol in that mix?
Bloke on the Range - Great, thanks for the info.
Time to get some Ballistol...
After watching the inrange video on barrels and stuff is it possible to get replacement barrels for older rifles like mosin's enfields and that sort of thing or do you need to get them specially made up.
Mosins are so cheap, I don't think there would be a market for it. Enfields, maybe. You can always have a barrel done up from a barrel blank, which is more affordable than you might think. I know people who do that for custom oddball projects.
How much of this old ammo still exists?
Surplus corrosive? tons, though the huge uptick in gun users in the USA, 'tactical' rapid shooting, and general hoarding has really put a dent in the stock likely to be available. I think we will see the bulk of the cheap stuff dissapear within the decade. That would be mitigated as militaries rotate out their old stock, but the practice of selling to the public is being undermined.
Works for ARs too ? I have lot of corrosive ammo and my MK47 gets rusty, is it ok to spray it all ( bolt, bore, muzzle device ) ? I dont want to clean it after every use, I would just like to avoid corrosion. Thanks
You need to clean it every time if you're shooting corrosive. This is just the easiest way I've found to do it.
I think this way there will be over use/ consumption of ballistol. If gun is cleaned thoroughly with warm water or soapy water and then ballistol is applied properly, it will be good , IMO.
If you want to clean your guns a more complicated and messy way, you do you! :D
Over consumption? A mug of hot ballistol per day and a splash behind the ears as aftershave has never done me any harm 😆
Ballistol never mix completely in water . It makes a suspension type solution. Also when this mixture is applied to salts contaminated arms, water does not thoroughly come in contact with metal surface due to oily nature of ballistol, so salts are not solved and washed properly.
@jk are you by any chance an economist? Cos that's a real "OK so experience shows clearly that it works very well indeed in practice, but I've got a theory as to why it shouldn't, and my theory is more important".
And "suspension type solution".... What's that? Cos a suspension and a solution are two completely different things... It forms an emulsion, which is a fine dispersion of drops of one liquid in another.
In any case, to demolish your theory with some basic physical chemistry: the miniscule droplets of oil are surrounded in the water, which is the medium in which the oil droplets float. So it's not possible for the oil to come into intimate contact with the steel without the water doing so too.
Why was corrosive Ammo used by militaries in the 20th century? Was the technology to make non corrosive just not available?
Brennan Bennett the Soviets used corrosively primed ammo right up to the end. Very reliable and temperature insensitive. The companies that used to sell mil-surp ammo liked to call it "sure-fire"
Priming compound recipies were big trade secret stuff. Winchester gave their superior formula / method of production to the allies in WWII at no charge. That moved everyone into the modern non-corrosive era. It's hard to calculate how much money that would have been. It also made a huge difference in the consistency of primer potency and reliability which is the basis of most modern firearms. Notice how we aren't really selling guns based on their mitigation factors for weak or over pressure ammo? Those used to be a major deal. Half the selling points of mausers, etc. were gas venting.
Then they came out with standard winchester formula primers and IMR type dual base powders, and the rest is history.
Some M-1 carbine ammo around with fake L C 52 headstamp coming in white boxes marked with only 30 M1 Carbine. This is fake, Chinese made, supposedly in 1960's. Very corrosive, Berdan not Boxer primed, and primers not well crimped in often coming out when round fired. Shoots ok otherwise, just make certain gas system well cleaned.
it was cheaper and back then they hadnt the chemical supplies to make huge scales of these primers (the swiss were some of the first worldwide to go with non corrosive ammo -1911)
The commies had some problems with producing it and it was cheaper
There was even corrosive hunting ammo from the UDSSR, China and Jugoslavia
the compound for non corosive ammo was instabile when it was invented and you needed really clean powder anyway
back then there was some acid residue in the powder from the nitrating process -wich was totally fine (except if it desolved or lighted the powder chemically) since you had to clean the rifle anyway because of the corrosive primers
Or you can be like my friend and just never look down your bore, ever.
Drives me nuts. I hate to think what most of his guns must look like if you took a peek down the bore.
for a Lee enfield l would waste me time to clean it
Yeah buddy, love that Ballistol!! Have a sub.
In winter I use it straight up (a little goes a long way) to lube and prevent corrosion in my guns gas tubes, but other wise I use it at 10% product and 90% water, it works awesome. Once the water evaporates it leaves a wonderful thin film behind and it makes my wood stocks beautiful as well. But it does kind of smell like a newborns puke, don't you think?
What I do... is just clean it and then oil it. Done. Mosin, awesome bore... Idk man, you're overcomplicating this imho
A German oil an a British gun that’s how Wars start lol
WTF is the deal with the plastic bag?
He probably keeps the spray bottle in a plastic bag so he doesn't have to deal with leaks if/when he throws it in a gear bag.
But what if I don't know what wiping out and oiling up a gun looks like?
Britbong here.
Edit: Britbong that still lives in Britain.
Well I'm sure there's plenty of other videos where I can go and witness this epic undertaking.
“A quick and easy way to deal with corrosive ammo”, informative video but a little misleading… I was actually looking for a way to clean 45 loose 9mm slightly corroded rounds before use. Wouldn’t dare run those through the chamber in the condition they’re in. 🤷🏻♂️ only killed 3 minutes though 😉
Your ammo is corroded, not corrosive ;)
@@BlokeontheRange crazy man say, huh?! 😆 I used the term corroded in reference to the rounds I have; the word corrosive was used in your video title; which I quoted. 😉 But, yeah…
Not sure why it's misleading that a video about dealing with corrosive ammunition doesn't discuss dealing with corroded ammunition tho ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ;)
Windex is cheaper and works well.
no it does not