Feldwebel Wolfenstool ~ I HATE you ! damn you for for making me scream ! Now I gotta buy a "Smelly" at $500-$600 ...that you bought for $19.95 when I was busy fighting VC/NVA ? Damn Canadian....Crying and LOL at same time ! :D
I remember in the UK you could get them for £50 in the 1980's. You could get one with the the rifling bored out for a bit more and have it on a shotgun certificate! Happy days!
During the 50's as a kid I lived in England. All Englishmen were called "Blokes" by the Americans stationed there. On the other hand all Americans were called "Yanks" by the Blokes. That pissed a lot of Southern boys off until they got over themselves.
I've learned more about Enfields and rimmed ammunition and firearms in general by watching 1.5 hours of Bloke's videos than in 17 years of handling firearms. Nice.
Got my #4 mk II in the 90's. Truly like new UF55. Ran a full magazine through it, cleaned it, lubed it and it now stands at the ready. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I've got a #4 with all the features and in mint shape with matching numbers on the magazine. Paid $49.95 for it at Turner's guns 25 years ago. To me it's priceless as it was the only one in the barrel with the brass buttstrap, and accurate out past 1,200 yds on the Navajo Reservation shooting range with the flip up sight.
OMG, THANK YOU! I just bought a No.4 Mk1*, and I thought I was missing the button to remove the bolt. You, sir, just saved me a trip to the gunsmith! Mine also seems to have had the barrel free-floated and weight reduced with a sporterized (yet still very old judging by patina) fore stock that includes a delete of the top wooden barrel cover thing, and the wood of the fore stock ends at where the forward sling mount would be. The previous owner also had drilled and tapped holes in the receiver to add a side scope mount, and the asshole deleted all of the iron sight components (he also kept the scope and mount, so my rifle has absolutely no sights right now). However, these mods depreciated the value, so I picked it up for $200, and it'll cost about another $100 to buy and replace the iron sights. For the rear sight, I've gotten hold of some new old stock original Mk1 milled sights looking as good as the day they were made. As for the action, oh my goodness is it buttery smooth! It'll be even better now that I can remove the bolt to give it a proper cleaning and lubing/oiling. The previous owner may have butchered this thing, but he also took good care of it, as not a spot of rust can be found. Some copper oxide around the muzzle, but that was easy enough to clean. I'd been looking for a deer rifle for a while, but even "cheap" new rifles were over $400, and never had irons to begin with (I prefer iron sights). This find, while a project gun, seems like a good deal to me; about $300 after restoration, and it'll have decent irons on a .30 caliber rifle (yes, I know it's .303) made in 1943. :)
Thats almost exactly how i received mine lmao. Forestock all but gone, sportered for hunting. A scope from id imagine the 60s or 70s drilled right into the receiver, still have the iron sights though. Gonna look into getting the stock restored, and possibly a repro scope and cheek riser. Dont think mine was ever a sniper, but im not trying to drop any germans, sonot having perfect accuracy isnt an issue lmao
Thumbnail notwithstanding, a great video about the quintessential British rifle. The Lee Enfiled No. 4 and the Jungle Carbine were the first firearms I ever used, and have sought high quality survivors for many years now.... Will keep these points in-mind as the search continues!
@ TFB TV, I have an Enfield No. 4 Mark 2 that has (I think) the correct movement on the barrel on the end,...as in the one you have shown. My worry is, that the metal on the end of the barrel band is very close to the front sights. I am concerned that it may,...or Is shifting forward,... and may eventually come into contact with the front sights. Should I take it apart and see if I can shift the wood rearward? If need be, should I trim or shave a slight amount of wood off, to keep the hand-guard from coming into contact with the front sights. Or maybe shim (bed) the front with cardboard or a thin piece of tin or copper? It SEEMS that since the last time I shot it, the top of the hand-guard has drifted forward just a VERY small amount. Thank you.
I just got a no4 mk1 made in 1941. Im going to turn it into a De Lisle replica cause someone already ruined the rifle by sporterizing it. I wonder if in its original form it was shooting Nazis in Europe or suffering in the desert of North Afrika. Very cool guns!
Excellent presentation. 10/10 15 years ago I got two brand new (still in the grease wrap and original box) No 4 Mk 2 Long Branch Enfields. I took one out of the box and it shoots amazingly well at 800 metres. They might not be as finely engineered as some M98 rifles but if I were in a critical situation, the Enfield is the gun I would use to save my life. I've never had a misfire or jam. The accuracy is as good as some of those ridiculous 308 target rifles with the 2" diameter barrels and cuckoo clock wires that attach to the silly leather jackets. The Enfield is the perfect battle rifle. The recoil with army surplus cordite ammo is brutal, so I shoot 125 grn projectiles loaded to give about 2450fps. The recoil is soft - almost "caressing" - therefore no flinching when pulling the trigger. Either the Enfield or a 22 Hornet are my favourite rifles. M98s, BTW fail when they get the tiniest but of dirt in the action. One other gun that really impressed me was the 6.5mm Swedish Mauser semi automatic. In my opinion, a better gun than the M1 Garand. Unfortunately, in Australia, these are highly restricted.
Just found, literally found in a garage, a #4 Mk1 . Cleaned it and the stock and cant't wait to shoot it. It has a slick and tight bolt. Great engineering. Loved the informative video.
Great video Bloke, and being an L-E collector for decades I came across a one in 1,000, an unfired and un-proofed Savage L-E , it was purchased by a friends father in the early sixties and himself being 80 odd, sold it to me in the grease. A rare find.
Well done, Mike. This is by far the best TH-cam video I've ever seen on the Lee-Enfield No.4 Rifle. Definitely, the biggest mistake I see is people tearing their hair out because their No.4 isn't correctly stocked up. Just three points I'll add: 1. That downwards pressure at the muzzle is crucial for the No.4 to be "self compensating" for variations in ammunition tolerances. 2. Related to head-space is how the rifle's bolt was originally mated to a specific rifle - which is why it's crucial to have the original bolt - as the action of the No.4 acts as a spring. It absorbes recoil and, along with the barrel lifting off the foreend, is part of that previously mentioned "Self-compensating" mechanism. 3. People have long argued about the correct torque setting for the bolt that clamps the triggerguard to the barrel reinforce. The thinking is erroneous. It is a bog standard bolt, and the correct torque can be found in any engineer's pocket handbook. Nice job, Mike.
Great video. I've been caretaker of my no.4 mk1 for more than 10 years now. It's marked m47 1943 on the left side of the buttstock band. When I bought it the stock was dryer than kindling. I fixed that and put the micrometer sight on it. Great rifle. Shoots like a dream.
I would suggest checking the locking lugs on the bolt to make sure the wear shows equal force on both sides. One of the main factors for lee enfield accuracy. Also check that the front sight guard isn't contacting the stock (which is fixable). And that the bands are right and minimal gaps between the hand guards and stock. There's an Australian guy who has a TH-cam channel on Lee Enfield Accuracy and he has great info.
My local gun shop has about 30-40 different .303 Brit rifles. Most are variations on the Lee-Enfield, British made, but some BSA options as well. Going for about equivalent of £35 to £100.
Good video, will keep it in mind when I'm looking for one. Got a SMLE MK III and now I want a No. 4 and a No. 5 Jungle Carbine. Wish it was like the 50's and 60's where my Grandfather said you could buy one and some ammo for 10 bucks here in Canada.
Perfect timing, looking to add one to my collection. You guys should just do an entire series like this such as with the Kar98k, Nagant, Springfield 1903, etc.
Yay, I haz Frostmourne and Ice cream Just saw one from Iraqveteran8888, he did an hour on Mosin nagant rareness and which to buy depending on what you want ie. Shooter vs collectible.
Excellent video and thank you. I was grateful to have found the Long Branch No. 4 MK 1* in wonderful condition, two groove rifling and a beautiful walnut stock that gets attention everywhere.
Reading all the comments about the thumbnail... Sitting back thinking "I'm the idiot who doesnt know which is which" lol. I can tell the difference sometimes in person, I just dont spend enough time whackin off in the tool shed to Lee Enfields to know which is which when looking at random thumb nails. Always like watching these detailed sorts of videos on firearms on this channel though. Its very useful information but usually packed with great history. Before somebody says "You should check out Ian at ForgottenWeapons!" I already watch him and C&R Arsenal as well for the more detailed history of things, but I tend to watch them for the more odd ball, obscure, or things not talked to death about. Great content as always, really been enjoying the videos about the handmade guns from Pakistan.
I miss my ol' No. 1 Mk 4.... My first surplus rifle and introduction to anything bigger than a .22 as a teen. I gave it to my nephew, who thinks it's great for showing off to steampunk friends, a few years ago.
It would hang down from a lug that was machined with the barrel in the case of No.4 rifle. Earlier SMLE No.1 Mark III has a more complicated bedding so they can have the lug on a barrel hood piece upfront so fixing bayonets will not affect point of impact. Because the bayonet is affixed to the front and relatively heavy, it will most likely bring the barrel down a few mm, enough to change the point of impact dramatically at longer ranges. Especially important given that rifles from that era were meant to reach out to at least 500m and beyond
I enjoyed this video greatly, serious, informative, no BS with a touch of humour in the right places... If this Bloke on the Range is ever in Canada's Capital (Ottawa)... your range day (cost) is on me. Thanks brother, good work.
Hi TFB TV & Bloke, Nice to see you on the TVBT TV Chanel. So watched the Video and I can agree with you on the Free Floating subject, in addition I have now about 2 years of experience with Enfield´s (I am NO Expert still Learning every day about them!!! And will never end so don't hate me if I am Wrong about something !!) and own 4 of them. ( 3 No4 and one No5) So I am a bit surprised that you don't mentioned the Firing Pin protrusion? in combination with a bad/worn out spring the FP quick can be damaged or worse if not checked!? (Pierced primers etc.) YES the Enfield action is strong and the Rifle can handle a improper care a while but if you doo, it quick "can" go to garbage. You talked a little bit about Bolt heads and Headspace.... but didn't explain much at all or give much Basic info's about that.... I am sure plenty of people would be happy to get a good amount of Information's about that subject... maybe a detailed Video on your channel? all in all good vid but not as much info's I had expected. g patrik
I agree with you on bolt heads and headspace. I have a couple of military head space gauges. And you're correct on the sizes too. I'm impressed with this UTube site. Great information! I can learn a lot from you! Great job!
I just bought a No.4 Mark 1 made in Orange Feeder Factory Australia, really good condition, beautiful stock, and has IAC Alex import mark. The stock says 12/42 which is the only date on the rifle, and the bolt serial number is only off by 2, but I paid $530 total so I think it was a good deal.
Anneal the the case necks, and set the sizing die to just the bottom of the neck by candle sooting the neck so you can see how far the die is set, and trim to 2.222", and case life is nearly the same as any other round. I avoid Sellior and Bellot if possible because the metal is the worst for case head separation in spite of the procedure above.
Well I finally paid off two Enfields that I’ve had on layaway for quite a bit of time. One is an all matching Ishapore mk1 no3* with a perfect bore, the other is a Savage No4 mk1 in excellent condition with a five groove pristine bore. But, the Savage has a mis-matched bolt. I’ve been binge watching every Enfield video out there trying to learn about the in’s and out’s of Enfields. That being said, the you tuber named “EnfieldAccurizing” has a video showing how to check if the locking lugs on rifles with non-matching bolts. He explains how dangerous it can be if it’s only bearing on one side. . So I followed his instructions on how to check using a permanent marker on the locking lugs. Upon inserting and working the bolt, the inside lug (the smallest of the two) does not appear to be making contact with the inside lug recess at all. He speaks of using valve grinding compound, which doesn’t sound overly complicated (I’m fairly well mechanically minded), but if I do this, I know I will be increasing headspace. Currently this Savage rifle came with a #1 bolt head and it did check out ok with a 74 gauge. So, would you advise I go the valve grinding compound route, or do you feel this is necessary at all? He spoke of bolts shearing in half which sounds pretty catastrophic and scary. What is your take on leveling locking lugs to make an even bearing surface on the Enfield rifles? I not concerned with the safety of the 1949 Ishapore Mk1 No3* as it checked good with the headspace gauge and it’s bore is perfect. The Ishapore rifle is copper wire wrapped and looks cooler than a wet beaver on Christmas morning. I know without the rifle being in your hands, you can’t speak with absolute authority as to the safety of my rifle. But, your knowledge on the rifles far exceeds mine and I would appreciate your thoughts on lapping the lugs on Endfields. I wish there was a gunsmith in my area who would be Endfields savvy, I don’t know of anyone. Am I over thinking this?
Hi there without disrespect to the author of this video you may be waiting forever for a reply. If I was you look up for your area the military shooters/ military shooters club etc and contact them. More often then not there are those older blokes that know a lot about these. And if your lucky you may even find someone/enthusiast that actually does work on these Lee Enfields and knows what they’re doing. Good luck 👍
@@jeffestrada6857 That’s a very good idea. Thank you. The idea of lapping the lug until they’re even really doesn’t scare or overwhelm me. But, I do know by doing that, I’ll increase the headspace. I would then need to judge weather or not I’d need a #2 bolt head. I just wanted to see if all of that was simply overthinking the situation or actually necessary
Thanks for that last tip about the front sight. I have a N05 jungle carbine and I may have to adjust the front sight and its probably the same as the N04.
This is a remarkable rifle and I love it. Reason being that I have been trained to handle. Up to 70s this rifle was in used by PAKISTAN armed forces. Unfortunately I cannot buy this caliber rifle regardless of my choice. I watched you firing rounds quickly. That is remarkable.
The "American" headspace obsession I can speak to on my part. I have a beautiful No. 4 Mk 1/2 FTR that has a lovely bore and beautiful rear sight but it stretches first fire brass so that I can get no more than three reloads before it starts to separate at the base. No problem with surplus Berdan primed that is not conveniently reloadable anyway, but expensive for Boxer primed brass and reloads. Sadly, ALL surplus ammo is useless for hunting. So that is the reason to eschew excess headspace in America.
the FTR means "factory through repair". it was essentially factory serviced or refurbished in one of the factories that could have manufactured it. i have a similar stamping on the receiver of my no4 mk1 that was made in 1943 and FTR'd in 1949. Chances are good mine originally came out of the factory with the stamped MK III sight and was given the machined MK I sight when it was refurbished, the latter being the micrometer sight that adjusted by twisting a small disk on the top rather than sliding the sight along the aperture like on the MK III sights. bit of a history with the rear sights on these rifles during their wartime production.
I just got one, and the barrel is completely fixed at the front. I can't push it up, down, or in any direction. It's fixed as if the rifle were a K31 or a M39. I haven't taken the stock off, but looking at it, I see a piece of flat metal in between the stock and the hand guard at the first barrel band, or middle barrel band. Also, I see burlap type of material in between the stock and handguard in two places between the start of the hand guard and the first barrel band. The rifle came with an adjustable peep sight, where there is a little built in disc that you can turn to adjust the aperture size. The rifle itself was made in 1942 and the serial number is 28794A, with very little marks on the medal and wood. We'll see how it shoots. This is the first time I've purchased a No. 4 with a barrel that is completely fixed.
I got a Lee Enfield No. 4 Mk. 1* that was made by Savage in the US and rebuilt with better parts in 1953 in Fazakerley, United Kingdom. It was designated a Mk. 1/3 varient due to this as it is marked on the receiver No. 4 Mk. 1/3. Got it at a surplus store for $700
just got back from Bisley, yesterday, shot my Longbranch No4 1* 1950 at 500yds, first shot a 5. the rest not as good , but for a 67yr old rifle it shot better than I could aim it...the other club members where shooting there's at 900yrd..??? really good rifles..
I thoroughly enjoy my Savage-Stevens made No.4 Mk.I* every time I take it out. Two rifling grooves, and it is a bit more accurate than my 1917 No.1 Mk.III. It also has the dial adjustment for the long range flip up sight. I bought this rifle from a local shop around 1988, having previously been part of an estate collection. At two hundred yards, I see no inferiority in accuracy to either of my Mausers, including my BRNO made 98k. Bolt head overlaps the rib by about 2°. Seems to be about as good as any surplus Enfield that I've seen. No doubt carefully selected by the original collection owner.
I've got a no.5 mk1 jungle carbine I bought from some guy that had a personal museum with weapons from the French and Indian war up through Korea. Wife worked with his wife. Offered him some $$$ and went home with it. Wish I bought one to go with my mosin nagants when they were all around it under $100 and surplus ammo was all over. Great deer rifle
Here in the states I stumbled across a #4 MK1 star in a random little pawn shop. But it had been butchured, holes drilled in the receiver to mount a scope(a cheap plastic Chinese scope at that) had the whole stock and everything replaced with some cheap plastic replacements. And was missing it's magazine.and the idiot wanted over $350 for it
My old no.1 mk3 had a head space issue was a little in accuarate and cases had a hairline crack forming on them, tame it to the smith hands me a new bolt stings me $25 shot a shit load better after that but ut was a 70yo bolt
I live in NA, I am a huge fan of the SMLE, I have owned/own 8 rifles and handles many. I have been stupid for the SMLE for over 20 years and handled hundreds at shops and shows. Honest to god, I have only seen No. 4 style rifles that have the button for bolt removal.
The headspace thing... I been warned by a gun dealer much too young to understand these rifles that to neglect checking and repairing headspace might leave me with a "pipe bomb" in my hands. It's a waste of time argueing with him, I just found another gun dealership to support.
Ammunition is a huge issue. .303 british is hard to find. If you're going to own and actually _shoot_ a Lee Enfield, I would suggest learning how to reload ammo.
The Enfield is a perfect rifle for cast bullets reloader, as cast puts far less stress on these old rifles, and it's easier to match bullet diameter with the bore to develop some remarkably accurate ammo.
I'm new to Enfield's and just bought a BSA No.4 Mk.I. I am however very used to my Kar98k. One thing thats bothering me is the trigger on the Enfield. Is it supposed to be like loose? The trigger on mine when all the way forward can fall back just by pointing the rifle up and vise versa. I'm used to the Mauser trigger and its tight, long squeeze compared to this short weird wobbly thing. Thanks!
Found the head space info rather informative. I still carry a .74 gauge when shopping for a new one, but I have one I shoot that fails the .74.....and yes, I live in the states.
I have what I think is a Enfield mk2. Grandfather brought it back from england after the war sometime in 45 or 46. And been stored correctly to this day. All matching numbers but im very new to this weapon and have no idea of what exactly I have here. Thanks for the info.
We do. It's an obsession. Anything that might make a difference in accuracy is scrutinized down here, no matter how voodoo. If you're not shooting 400m+, just be happy it goes bang when you pull the trigger, eh?
Most don't actually even know what head spacing is. Many are happy when it goes bang and that is literally the extent of their knowledge about their own rifles. I could tell stories of dumb things I've helped people out with at ranges. A buddy of mine started carrying a shit load of tools with hem when we go for this reason and often fixes guns he's never held before.
@@marcusinfestus1333 So anything that affects accuracy is hugely important... so you care about rifles that had 4 MOA 70 years ago? You do realize that even the No4 T model sniper rifles only had to have 2.5 MOA.. again, 70 years ago. And that was good for WWII rifles. And where is your data that a few millimeters of headspace on a heavily rimmed cartridge has any effect? His point here is that most places that 'fix the headspace' just replace the bolt head without fitting the bolt head. Even when you do, there's no reason to think that it affects accuracy. Headspace is considered a big issue because it can be a safety hazard, especially with rimless cartridges. I just read multiple articles talking about headspace, and not a single one mentioned accuracy at all. And those are ones talking about rimless cartridges, where headspace is significantly more important than rimmed cartridges. If you're going to talk about headspace as an issue, be honest enough to say it's about safety and not accuracy. So the point here is that the main fixes for this non-issue can lead to more significant issues elsewhere. The greatest enemy of good is great, as they say. And if you really need great accuracy, maybe don't buy a 70+ year old rifle that had 4 MOA from the factory, using low pressure cartridges with highly sensitive stocking up and no optic mounts to speak of and a relatively extremely light, long barrel.
I think the American preoccupation with headspace comes from a pile of vets who dealt with the M2 in the military. The old version of the M2, that is supposed to be out of service as of a few years ago, had to be head space checked and timed prior to use. If the headspace is off bad enough on an m2 the operator can be killed. I’ve never seen it as an issue on a bolt gun where you’re ramming a round home manually after every shot, and there isn’t significant jarring to cause the round to move in the chamber.
There's a lot of conflicting information re: the No.4 MKI* on these sites; and, as you sound like you actually know what you're talking about, I'll throw this 2-part question your way - What does it mean if my late father's MKI* - has the #3 on the bolt-head; and has 'ENGLAND' stamped on the right side, just past where the loaded bolt-head rests? Research tells me that the MKI* was made in Canada, though according to the 'ENGLAND' stamp, it seems like that is not the case; and as the more info you receive the better - this is stamped directly below the safety lever: 13c7094 ......5 ...1942 Also, the wooden stock (front part) is 17in. - leaving 14 in. clean barrel, while the ones you show, have the wood reaching the front sights.
Very interesting. Have you done a vid on the p14 enfield?If so, would appreciate the link. I have am excellent examle...moa groups (not iron sights but a scope).
My father purchased a enfield in 1960 or 61. It was hideous it had been stored in a drum of oil this means there no rust but the stock was a soaked with oil and squishy he soaked the stock in gasoline for two weeks and did get most of the oil out. He had a part of a can of marine spar varnish and that was used th finish the stock he removed the upper hand guard and cut back the stock to a sports rifle but never cut the barrel down. 20 years later I stripped the varnish off cut the barrel down and added good sights, bench blued the steel and re soaked stock in dry cleaning solvent to get out more of the oil. I was able to bone the stock smooth and
I paid 49.95 for my p-14 in 1986 which is 303 British , those bring a lot more today , I also have the American 1917 Winchester which is a close twin to the p-14 , only the 1917 is in 30.06 ,
Question for Mike, on my No 4 the stock doesn't move at all like yours does around the 12:14 mark. I bought it online and didn't get a chance to hold it before hand. It seems to shoot OK, though I have never tried actually shooting at a target, mostly trees and such. It usually hits. Its a Mk 1 (F), 1948. Any suggestions?
I grew up on sheep stations in the nor-west of Western Australia and all I ever saw of large caliber rifles were Lee-Enfields, yet the odd thing is I never once saw one with that type of rear sight. Every .303 I ever saw had the sort of mid-mounted rear sight. I don't know if this was something to do with them being made at the small arms factory in Lithgow, NSW or not, but I don't think I've ever seen one with that type of rear sight on any clips I have seen on TH-cam either. Is there an easy explanation for this?
I have a MK 4 1/2 FTR 55 in great shape only missing the clearing kit in the butt stock and sling but otherwise complete. I picked it up at a Big 5 sporting goods in 96 for $150 US. I’m curious about the Bren scope that was used on the sniper conversions and the feasibility of adding in a surplus if I can score one? I know this video is old so if I don’t here back it’s fine but I’m thrilled as I almost went with a Mauser instead though I would’ve been ok now had I went that route. The Enfield just stood out and at the time the removable magazine was the deciding factor as it was the only one they had.
What about buttstock length? Did they make different lengths? I have a 1944 No4Mk2 whose buttstock is about one inch shorter than my other one made in the early 50s or late 40s. It would make sense to make different sizes as there's short and tall people.
What does it mean when an Enfield 4 Mk. 1 has a white number on the buttstock. Or what does it mean when a No.4 Mk. 1 bolt will spring back (but not come out) when you lift the bolt up?
I have a Savage No IV and it bears on the side exactly like your .22 does. Fantastic rifle otherwise, all matching, etc and I do not want to replace the stocks. What is the procedure to amend the side pressure at the muzzle? I'm thinking I can remove the top wood and lightly sand the vertical portions of the front bearing to open a gap. Thanks in advance for your reply!
Nobody's yet spotted the 1 or 2 things I *didn't* mention (cos they don't really matter) ~Mike
I know one is how many groves were cut into the barrel!!! And you're right it does not matter because if it left the factory, it left in spec.
Yup :) The other one is silly and really trivial though ~Mike
TFB TV Electro penciled proof marks?
"U.S. Property"?
Good ol Savage made lend lease.
I had to dig a little bit into this. Sniper Stock.
I worked at a big hardware chain when I was 16. Canadian Tire. 1969. We sold surplus SMLE's in the Sporting Goods Dept. for $19.95...
Feldwebel Wolfenstool ~ I HATE you ! damn you for for making me scream ! Now I gotta buy a "Smelly" at $500-$600 ...that you bought for $19.95 when I was busy fighting VC/NVA ? Damn Canadian....Crying and LOL at same time ! :D
I want those days back
@@brucemorrison2132 mosin and sks were both 60-110 dollars until the import ban...
I remember in the UK you could get them for £50 in the 1980's. You could get one with the the rifling bored out for a bit more and have it on a shotgun certificate! Happy days!
Back in the 90s I seen them at Canadian tire for $100. Best rifle ever made.
Bloke is a 'proper' blokes bloke. I love his very English mastery of the understatement and his excellent knowledge of his subject.
During the 50's as a kid I lived in England. All Englishmen were called "Blokes" by the Americans stationed there. On the other hand all Americans were called "Yanks" by the Blokes. That pissed a lot of Southern boys off until they got over themselves.
The same goes for matt Easton
I've learned more about Enfields and rimmed ammunition and firearms in general by watching 1.5 hours of Bloke's videos than in 17 years of handling firearms. Nice.
Got my #4 mk II in the 90's. Truly like new UF55. Ran a full magazine through it, cleaned it, lubed it and it now stands at the ready. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I've got a #4 with all the features and in mint shape with matching numbers on the magazine. Paid $49.95 for it at Turner's guns 25 years ago. To me it's priceless as it was the only one in the barrel with the brass buttstrap, and accurate out past 1,200 yds on the Navajo Reservation shooting range with the flip up sight.
With that, and a cup of tea, you can conquer yourself an Empire, and defy despots and totalitarians, my lad. Enjoy!
I for one would love to see you do a 1200 yard bullseye.
I bought mine about the same time at Turners guns in Los Angeles.. I love that gun.
OMG, THANK YOU!
I just bought a No.4 Mk1*, and I thought I was missing the button to remove the bolt. You, sir, just saved me a trip to the gunsmith!
Mine also seems to have had the barrel free-floated and weight reduced with a sporterized (yet still very old judging by patina) fore stock that includes a delete of the top wooden barrel cover thing, and the wood of the fore stock ends at where the forward sling mount would be.
The previous owner also had drilled and tapped holes in the receiver to add a side scope mount, and the asshole deleted all of the iron sight components (he also kept the scope and mount, so my rifle has absolutely no sights right now).
However, these mods depreciated the value, so I picked it up for $200, and it'll cost about another $100 to buy and replace the iron sights. For the rear sight, I've gotten hold of some new old stock original Mk1 milled sights looking as good as the day they were made. As for the action, oh my goodness is it buttery smooth! It'll be even better now that I can remove the bolt to give it a proper cleaning and lubing/oiling. The previous owner may have butchered this thing, but he also took good care of it, as not a spot of rust can be found. Some copper oxide around the muzzle, but that was easy enough to clean.
I'd been looking for a deer rifle for a while, but even "cheap" new rifles were over $400, and never had irons to begin with (I prefer iron sights). This find, while a project gun, seems like a good deal to me; about $300 after restoration, and it'll have decent irons on a .30 caliber rifle (yes, I know it's .303) made in 1943. :)
Thats almost exactly how i received mine lmao. Forestock all but gone, sportered for hunting. A scope from id imagine the 60s or 70s drilled right into the receiver, still have the iron sights though. Gonna look into getting the stock restored, and possibly a repro scope and cheek riser. Dont think mine was ever a sniper, but im not trying to drop any germans, sonot having perfect accuracy isnt an issue lmao
UPDATE: The idiot Producer (me) accidentally created a thumbnail with a Enfield No.1 not a No.4. It has been corrected it. ~ Steve
(Those who can't make videos, make thumbnails instead) ~ Steve
Thumbnail notwithstanding, a great video about the quintessential British rifle. The Lee Enfiled No. 4 and the Jungle Carbine were the first firearms I ever used, and have sought high quality survivors for many years now.... Will keep these points in-mind as the search continues!
Those responsible have been sacked.
@ TFB TV, I have an Enfield No. 4 Mark 2 that has (I think) the correct movement on the barrel on the end,...as in the one you have shown.
My worry is, that the metal on the end of the barrel band is very close to the front sights.
I am concerned that it may,...or Is shifting forward,... and may eventually come into contact with the front sights.
Should I take it apart and see if I can shift the wood rearward?
If need be, should I trim or shave a slight amount of wood off, to keep the hand-guard from coming into contact with the front sights.
Or maybe shim (bed) the front with cardboard or a thin piece of tin or copper?
It SEEMS that since the last time I shot it, the top of the hand-guard has drifted forward just a VERY small amount.
Thank you.
I just got a no4 mk1 made in 1941. Im going to turn it into a De Lisle replica cause someone already ruined the rifle by sporterizing it. I wonder if in its original form it was shooting Nazis in Europe or suffering in the desert of North Afrika. Very cool guns!
i shouldnt have watched this. now i once again REALLY want an enfield lol
Excellent presentation. 10/10
15 years ago I got two brand new (still in the grease wrap and original box) No 4 Mk 2 Long Branch Enfields. I took one out of the box and it shoots amazingly well at 800 metres. They might not be as finely engineered as some M98 rifles but if I were in a critical situation, the Enfield is the gun I would use to save my life. I've never had a misfire or jam. The accuracy is as good as some of those ridiculous 308 target rifles with the 2" diameter barrels and cuckoo clock wires that attach to the silly leather jackets. The Enfield is the perfect battle rifle. The recoil with army surplus cordite ammo is brutal, so I shoot 125 grn projectiles loaded to give about 2450fps. The recoil is soft - almost "caressing" - therefore no flinching when pulling the trigger. Either the Enfield or a 22 Hornet are my favourite rifles.
M98s, BTW fail when they get the tiniest but of dirt in the action. One other gun that really impressed me was the 6.5mm Swedish Mauser semi automatic. In my opinion, a better gun than the M1 Garand. Unfortunately, in Australia, these are highly restricted.
Just found, literally found in a garage, a #4 Mk1 . Cleaned it and the stock and cant't wait to shoot it. It has a slick and tight bolt. Great engineering. Loved the informative video.
Great video Bloke, and being an L-E collector for decades I came across a one in 1,000, an unfired and un-proofed Savage L-E , it was purchased by a friends father in the early sixties and himself being 80 odd, sold it to me in the grease. A rare find.
Well done, Mike. This is by far the best TH-cam video I've ever seen on the Lee-Enfield No.4 Rifle.
Definitely, the biggest mistake I see is people tearing their hair out because their No.4 isn't correctly stocked up.
Just three points I'll add:
1. That downwards pressure at the muzzle is crucial for the No.4 to be "self compensating" for variations in ammunition tolerances.
2. Related to head-space is how the rifle's bolt was originally mated to a specific rifle - which is why it's crucial to have the original bolt - as the action of the No.4 acts as a spring. It absorbes recoil and, along with the barrel lifting off the foreend, is part of that previously mentioned "Self-compensating" mechanism.
3. People have long argued about the correct torque setting for the bolt that clamps the triggerguard to the barrel reinforce. The thinking is erroneous. It is a bog standard bolt, and the correct torque can be found in any engineer's pocket handbook.
Nice job, Mike.
Great video. I've been caretaker of my no.4 mk1 for more than 10 years now. It's marked m47 1943 on the left side of the buttstock band. When I bought it the stock was dryer than kindling. I fixed that and put the micrometer sight on it. Great rifle. Shoots like a dream.
I would suggest checking the locking lugs on the bolt to make sure the wear shows equal force on both sides. One of the main factors for lee enfield accuracy. Also check that the front sight guard isn't contacting the stock (which is fixable). And that the bands are right and minimal gaps between the hand guards and stock. There's an Australian guy who has a TH-cam channel on Lee Enfield Accuracy and he has great info.
Greatest bolt action rifle ever. My Grandfather used one in WW2 and so did my Father during his national service back in the 50's.
By far my favourite firearm
Firing a No 4 Le-En Field on a range day will not disappoint! Great rifle to own and fire!
is this that one bloke I saw at the range?
My local gun shop has about 30-40 different .303 Brit rifles. Most are variations on the Lee-Enfield, British made, but some BSA options as well. Going for about equivalent of £35 to £100.
Good video, will keep it in mind when I'm looking for one. Got a SMLE MK III and now I want a No. 4 and a No. 5 Jungle Carbine. Wish it was like the 50's and 60's where my Grandfather said you could buy one and some ammo for 10 bucks here in Canada.
Just picked up a jungle for 300 that has new barrel in 6mm-303 I’ve had it to 600 yards and it’s a dream. Think imma have it bedded
Perfect timing, looking to add one to my collection.
You guys should just do an entire series like this such as with the Kar98k, Nagant, Springfield 1903, etc.
Yay, I haz Frostmourne and Ice cream Just saw one from Iraqveteran8888, he did an hour on Mosin nagant rareness and which to buy depending on what you want ie. Shooter vs collectible.
Goodness its Bloke on the Range, that was startling and a very good surprise :)
Excellent video and thank you. I was grateful to have found the Long Branch No. 4 MK 1* in wonderful condition, two groove rifling and a beautiful walnut stock that gets attention everywhere.
I miss my Bulldog carbine. I had a jungle carbine as well in .308. Loved those rifles.
I got lucky and inherited an unsed no4 mark 2 made in 1955. Mint condition. Fabulous rifle.
Reading all the comments about the thumbnail... Sitting back thinking "I'm the idiot who doesnt know which is which" lol. I can tell the difference sometimes in person, I just dont spend enough time whackin off in the tool shed to Lee Enfields to know which is which when looking at random thumb nails.
Always like watching these detailed sorts of videos on firearms on this channel though. Its very useful information but usually packed with great history. Before somebody says "You should check out Ian at ForgottenWeapons!" I already watch him and C&R Arsenal as well for the more detailed history of things, but I tend to watch them for the more odd ball, obscure, or things not talked to death about.
Great content as always, really been enjoying the videos about the handmade guns from Pakistan.
Christopher ...great comment,but as an Englishman i found the phrase 'whackin off in the tool shed' somewhat confusing,is this a technical term?
I believe it's an academic term
I miss my ol' No. 1 Mk 4.... My first surplus rifle and introduction to anything bigger than a .22 as a teen. I gave it to my nephew, who thinks it's great for showing off to steampunk friends, a few years ago.
jjdogbutte Wow... I am 19 and If you gave it to me. It would of been going to a good home where it would be used a lot...
That’s exactly what I did, except I traded it for a bolt action 30-30 lol
I have one precisely bc i love "steampunk" era rifles.
8:03 can someone explain what the bayonet has to do with the yardage the rear sight is zeroed for?
It would hang down from a lug that was machined with the barrel in the case of No.4 rifle. Earlier SMLE No.1 Mark III has a more complicated bedding so they can have the lug on a barrel hood piece upfront so fixing bayonets will not affect point of impact. Because the bayonet is affixed to the front and relatively heavy, it will most likely bring the barrel down a few mm, enough to change the point of impact dramatically at longer ranges. Especially important given that rifles from that era were meant to reach out to at least 500m and beyond
I enjoyed this video greatly, serious, informative, no BS with a touch of humour in the right places... If this Bloke on the Range is ever in Canada's Capital (Ottawa)... your range day (cost) is on me.
Thanks brother, good work.
Hi TFB TV & Bloke, Nice to see you on the TVBT TV Chanel. So watched the Video and I can agree with you on the Free Floating subject, in addition I have now about 2 years of experience with Enfield´s (I am NO Expert still Learning every day about them!!! And will never end so don't hate me if I am Wrong about something !!) and own 4 of them. ( 3 No4 and one No5) So I am a bit surprised that you don't mentioned the Firing Pin protrusion? in combination with a bad/worn out spring the FP quick can be damaged or worse if not checked!? (Pierced primers etc.) YES the Enfield action is strong and the Rifle can handle a improper care a while but if you doo, it quick "can" go to garbage. You talked a little bit about Bolt heads and Headspace.... but didn't explain much at all or give much Basic info's about that.... I am sure plenty of people would be happy to get a good amount of Information's about that subject... maybe a detailed Video on your channel? all in all good vid but not as much info's I had expected. g patrik
At least this is one of the guns I can have in the UK
obrbob194 Gun laws in the US are too strict, gun laws shouldn’t exist
@obrbob194 Canada is sometimes described as a 'middle ground' between the two, but nobody takes them seriously. 😑
@obrbob194 They're supposed to be more lax.
And those are rookie numbers. Get those numbers up! :D
@@jakeola10 see how far that gets your lovely country pal 😂
I agree with you on bolt heads and headspace. I have a couple of military head space gauges. And you're correct on the sizes too.
I'm impressed with this UTube site.
Great information!
I can learn a lot from you!
Great job!
I just bought a No.4 Mark 1 made in Orange Feeder Factory Australia, really good condition, beautiful stock, and has IAC Alex import mark. The stock says 12/42 which is the only date on the rifle, and the bolt serial number is only off by 2, but I paid $530 total so I think it was a good deal.
Thank You, very helpful info regarding rear sight selection.
Really enjoyed the video Mike, had to look twice as I thought I had got the wrong channel with "Bloke on the Range" presenting on TFB.
Anneal the the case necks, and set the sizing die to just the bottom of the neck by candle sooting the neck so you can see how far the die is set, and trim to 2.222", and case life is nearly the same as any other round. I avoid Sellior and Bellot if possible because the metal is the worst for case head separation in spite of the procedure above.
You are a wealth of information on the No4s! You are my “go to” for em!
I just found a no 4 mk 1 today and just knew tfb had me covered
Well I finally paid off two Enfields that I’ve had on layaway for quite a bit of time. One is an all matching Ishapore mk1 no3* with a perfect bore, the other is a Savage No4 mk1 in excellent condition with a five groove pristine bore. But, the Savage has a mis-matched bolt. I’ve been binge watching every Enfield video out there trying to learn about the in’s and out’s of Enfields. That being said, the you tuber named “EnfieldAccurizing” has a video showing how to check if the locking lugs on rifles with non-matching bolts. He explains how dangerous it can be if it’s only bearing on one side. . So I followed his instructions on how to check using a permanent marker on the locking lugs. Upon inserting and working the bolt, the inside lug (the smallest of the two) does not appear to be making contact with the inside lug recess at all. He speaks of using valve grinding compound, which doesn’t sound overly complicated (I’m fairly well mechanically minded), but if I do this, I know I will be increasing headspace. Currently this Savage rifle came with a #1 bolt head and it did check out ok with a 74 gauge. So, would you advise I go the valve grinding compound route, or do you feel this is necessary at all? He spoke of bolts shearing in half which sounds pretty catastrophic and scary. What is your take on leveling locking lugs to make an even bearing surface on the Enfield rifles? I not concerned with the safety of the 1949 Ishapore Mk1 No3* as it checked good with the headspace gauge and it’s bore is perfect. The Ishapore rifle is copper wire wrapped and looks cooler than a wet beaver on Christmas morning. I know without the rifle being in your hands, you can’t speak with absolute authority as to the safety of my rifle. But, your knowledge on the rifles far exceeds mine and I would appreciate your thoughts on lapping the lugs on Endfields. I wish there was a gunsmith in my area who would be Endfields savvy, I don’t know of anyone. Am I over thinking this?
Hi there without disrespect to the author of this video you may be waiting forever for a reply.
If I was you look up for your area the military shooters/ military shooters club etc and contact them. More often then not there are those older blokes that know a lot about these. And if your lucky you may even find someone/enthusiast that actually does work on these Lee Enfields and knows what they’re doing.
Good luck 👍
@@jeffestrada6857 That’s a very good idea. Thank you. The idea of lapping the lug until they’re even really doesn’t scare or overwhelm me. But, I do know by doing that, I’ll increase the headspace. I would then need to judge weather or not I’d need a #2 bolt head. I just wanted to see if all of that was simply overthinking the situation or actually necessary
yay mine is a #4 version 1 South African marked 100% correct from Mag to the milled sight to #1 bolt head! thanks for this great info!
I’m buying a lee Enfield for one reason, the Irish army used it aswell.
Thanks for that last tip about the front sight. I have a N05 jungle carbine and I may have to adjust the front sight and its probably the same as the N04.
Wow! Both of those No. 4s are really nice looking!
“What’s a few thou between friends” lol. Love it 😍
This is a remarkable rifle and I love it. Reason being that I have been trained to handle. Up to 70s this rifle was in used by PAKISTAN armed forces.
Unfortunately I cannot buy this caliber rifle regardless of my choice.
I watched you firing rounds quickly. That is remarkable.
In 94 I won the mad minute at Trentham with No4 Mk1* made by Longbranch in Canada. Got up off the mound with a 47.4 using Mk7 ball
The "American" headspace obsession I can speak to on my part. I have a beautiful No. 4 Mk 1/2 FTR that has a lovely bore and beautiful rear sight but it stretches first fire brass so that I can get no more than three reloads before it starts to separate at the base. No problem with surplus Berdan primed that is not conveniently reloadable anyway, but expensive for Boxer primed brass and reloads. Sadly, ALL surplus ammo is useless for hunting. So that is the reason to eschew excess headspace in America.
the FTR means "factory through repair". it was essentially factory serviced or refurbished in one of the factories that could have manufactured it. i have a similar stamping on the receiver of my no4 mk1 that was made in 1943 and FTR'd in 1949. Chances are good mine originally came out of the factory with the stamped MK III sight and was given the machined MK I sight when it was refurbished, the latter being the micrometer sight that adjusted by twisting a small disk on the top rather than sliding the sight along the aperture like on the MK III sights. bit of a history with the rear sights on these rifles during their wartime production.
I just got one, and the barrel is completely fixed at the front. I can't push it up, down, or in any direction. It's fixed as if the rifle were a K31 or a M39. I haven't taken the stock off, but looking at it, I see a piece of flat metal in between the stock and the hand guard at the first barrel band, or middle barrel band. Also, I see burlap type of material in between the stock and handguard in two places between the start of the hand guard and the first barrel band. The rifle came with an adjustable peep sight, where there is a little built in disc that you can turn to adjust the aperture size. The rifle itself was made in 1942 and the serial number is 28794A, with very little marks on the medal and wood. We'll see how it shoots. This is the first time I've purchased a No. 4 with a barrel that is completely fixed.
I got a Lee Enfield No. 4 Mk. 1* that was made by Savage in the US and rebuilt with better parts in 1953 in Fazakerley, United Kingdom. It was designated a Mk. 1/3 varient due to this as it is marked on the receiver No. 4 Mk. 1/3. Got it at a surplus store for $700
just got back from Bisley, yesterday, shot my Longbranch No4 1* 1950 at 500yds, first shot a 5. the rest not as good , but for a 67yr old rifle it shot better than I could aim it...the other club members where shooting there's at 900yrd..??? really good rifles..
I thoroughly enjoy my Savage-Stevens made No.4 Mk.I* every time I take it out. Two rifling grooves, and it is a bit more accurate than my 1917 No.1 Mk.III. It also has the dial adjustment for the long range flip up sight. I bought this rifle from a local shop around 1988, having previously been part of an estate collection. At two hundred yards, I see no inferiority in accuracy to either of my Mausers, including my BRNO made 98k. Bolt head overlaps the rib by about 2°. Seems to be about as good as any surplus Enfield that I've seen. No doubt carefully selected by the original collection owner.
"If you're worried about brass life you've got the wrong type of rifle." Well said.
I've got a no.5 mk1 jungle carbine I bought from some guy that had a personal museum with weapons from the French and Indian war up through Korea. Wife worked with his wife. Offered him some $$$ and went home with it. Wish I bought one to go with my mosin nagants when they were all around it under $100 and surplus ammo was all over. Great deer rifle
Here in the states I stumbled across a #4 MK1 star in a random little pawn shop. But it had been butchured, holes drilled in the receiver to mount a scope(a cheap plastic Chinese scope at that) had the whole stock and everything replaced with some cheap plastic replacements. And was missing it's magazine.and the idiot wanted over $350 for it
My old no.1 mk3 had a head space issue was a little in accuarate and cases had a hairline crack forming on them, tame it to the smith hands me a new bolt stings me $25 shot a shit load better after that but ut was a 70yo bolt
The Canadian Long Branch no4s tend to have the notch instead of the button for disassembly
Very handy- Thanks so much! might be buying a 4 here directly, will keep all of this in mind!
I live in NA, I am a huge fan of the SMLE, I have owned/own 8 rifles and handles many. I have been stupid for the SMLE for over 20 years and handled hundreds at shops and shows.
Honest to god, I have only seen No. 4 style rifles that have the button for bolt removal.
The headspace thing... I been warned by a gun dealer much too young to understand these rifles that to neglect checking and repairing headspace might leave me with a "pipe bomb" in my hands. It's a waste of time argueing with him, I just found another gun dealership to support.
i humbly invite this bloke to the range
Just bought an enfield yesterday. Really helpful video turns or my gun checks all the boxes!
RTI? How do you come out?
Ammunition is a huge issue. .303 british is hard to find. If you're going to own and actually _shoot_ a Lee Enfield, I would suggest learning how to reload ammo.
The Enfield is a perfect rifle for cast bullets reloader, as cast puts far less stress on these old rifles, and it's easier to match bullet diameter with the bore to develop some remarkably accurate ammo.
One of the best Enfield videos I've seen. Thanks
Even though I'll never buy a Lee Enfield, I will still watch the video. I like shit like this, "How to spot a knockoff" lol
Why not ?, they are just a fun rifle ,,and smooth operating
Bloke knows his stuff.
P.S one of the biggest things to look out for is pitting in the rifling of the Barrel!! Same as any rifle/weapon!
I'm new to Enfield's and just bought a BSA No.4 Mk.I. I am however very used to my Kar98k. One thing thats bothering me is the trigger on the Enfield. Is it supposed to be like loose? The trigger on mine when all the way forward can fall back just by pointing the rifle up and vise versa. I'm used to the Mauser trigger and its tight, long squeeze compared to this short weird wobbly thing.
Thanks!
Found the head space info rather informative. I still carry a .74 gauge when shopping for a new one, but I have one I shoot that fails the .74.....and yes, I live in the states.
I have what I think is a Enfield mk2. Grandfather brought it back from england after the war sometime in 45 or 46. And been stored correctly to this day. All matching numbers but im very new to this weapon and have no idea of what exactly I have here. Thanks for the info.
Hey a 1950 long branch. No4mk1 approximat value. Matching serial nmbrs except mag. Fire arms in great shape.
so glad he touched on the head spacing issue that the Americans crap on about.
We do. It's an obsession. Anything that might make a difference in accuracy is scrutinized down here, no matter how voodoo. If you're not shooting 400m+, just be happy it goes bang when you pull the trigger, eh?
Most don't actually even know what head spacing is. Many are happy when it goes bang and that is literally the extent of their knowledge about their own rifles. I could tell stories of dumb things I've helped people out with at ranges. A buddy of mine started carrying a shit load of tools with hem when we go for this reason and often fixes guns he's never held before.
I'm American and haven't crapped on anything about these rifles. Fine pieces of engineering these rifles are.
@@marcusinfestus1333 So anything that affects accuracy is hugely important... so you care about rifles that had 4 MOA 70 years ago? You do realize that even the No4 T model sniper rifles only had to have 2.5 MOA.. again, 70 years ago. And that was good for WWII rifles.
And where is your data that a few millimeters of headspace on a heavily rimmed cartridge has any effect? His point here is that most places that 'fix the headspace' just replace the bolt head without fitting the bolt head. Even when you do, there's no reason to think that it affects accuracy.
Headspace is considered a big issue because it can be a safety hazard, especially with rimless cartridges. I just read multiple articles talking about headspace, and not a single one mentioned accuracy at all. And those are ones talking about rimless cartridges, where headspace is significantly more important than rimmed cartridges. If you're going to talk about headspace as an issue, be honest enough to say it's about safety and not accuracy.
So the point here is that the main fixes for this non-issue can lead to more significant issues elsewhere. The greatest enemy of good is great, as they say. And if you really need great accuracy, maybe don't buy a 70+ year old rifle that had 4 MOA from the factory, using low pressure cartridges with highly sensitive stocking up and no optic mounts to speak of and a relatively extremely light, long barrel.
I think the American preoccupation with headspace comes from a pile of vets who dealt with the M2 in the military. The old version of the M2, that is supposed to be out of service as of a few years ago, had to be head space checked and timed prior to use. If the headspace is off bad enough on an m2 the operator can be killed. I’ve never seen it as an issue on a bolt gun where you’re ramming a round home manually after every shot, and there isn’t significant jarring to cause the round to move in the chamber.
I once saw a 1942-stamped Lee-Enfield at a Gander Mtn "used firearms" section.
I wanted to cry because it was sporterized.
There's a lot of conflicting information re: the No.4 MKI* on these sites; and, as you sound like you actually know what you're talking about, I'll throw this 2-part question your way - What does it mean if my late father's MKI* - has the #3 on the bolt-head; and has 'ENGLAND' stamped on the right side, just past where the loaded bolt-head rests?
Research tells me that the MKI* was made in Canada, though according to the 'ENGLAND' stamp, it seems like that is not the case; and as the more info you receive the better - this is stamped directly below the safety lever:
13c7094
......5
...1942
Also, the wooden stock (front part) is 17in. - leaving 14 in. clean barrel, while the ones you show, have the wood reaching the front sights.
That serial number "UF XXXX", aren't those the 'Irish Contract' rifles that were never delivered and put into storage?
Thanks friend, I recently ordered one and a gunsmith friend mentioned the Enfields are pretty much"damn indestructible"
Thank you for this vid. Can a similar one for the No.1 be made as well, please?
Good But I always look at the bore if that is worn short of a new barrel you have a wall hanger
I really hope I get my great grandfather's old number 4, bit of family history in that rifle
Very interesting. Have you done a vid on the p14 enfield?If so, would appreciate the link. I have am excellent examle...moa groups (not iron sights but a scope).
Heh, seeing this on TFB, I was fully expecting every point to be about how important headspace is.
My father purchased a enfield in 1960 or 61. It was hideous it had been stored in a drum of oil this means there no rust but the stock was a soaked with oil and squishy he soaked the stock in gasoline for two weeks and did get most of the oil out. He had a part of a can of marine spar varnish and that was used th finish the stock he removed the upper hand guard and cut back the stock to a sports rifle but never cut the barrel down. 20 years later I stripped the varnish off cut the barrel down and added good sights, bench blued the steel and re soaked stock in dry cleaning solvent to get out more of the oil.
I was able to bone the stock smooth and
Great video thanks for the heads up on all the particulars of this rifle.
I paid 49.95 for my p-14 in 1986 which is 303 British , those bring a lot more today , I also have the American 1917 Winchester which is a close twin to the p-14 , only the 1917 is in 30.06 ,
Question for Mike, on my No 4 the stock doesn't move at all like yours does around the 12:14 mark. I bought it online and didn't get a chance to hold it before hand. It seems to shoot OK, though I have never tried actually shooting at a target, mostly trees and such. It usually hits. Its a Mk 1 (F), 1948. Any suggestions?
Does the Enfield no4 mk1 have grooves on the side as well?
I grew up on sheep stations in the nor-west of Western Australia and all I ever saw of large caliber rifles were Lee-Enfields, yet the odd thing is I never once saw one with that type of rear sight. Every .303 I ever saw had the sort of mid-mounted rear sight. I don't know if this was something to do with them being made at the small arms factory in Lithgow, NSW or not, but I don't think I've ever seen one with that type of rear sight on any clips I have seen on TH-cam either. Is there an easy explanation for this?
And then the very next clip I looked at had a rifle with the sort of rear sight I was talking about! Damn, damn, damn! lol
Bloke, how many sites do you haunt, because we groupies will follow for the excellent content.
Thanks a million for making this video and sharing your knowledge with us. Great job!
The Lee Enfield was the first rifle I've fired as a Royal Canadian Sea Cadet. I would buy one if I could.
SMLE = best by far, bolt action combat rifle ever made.
Thanks for this info Bloke (in the room for a change) 🤩👍👍
Nicely done.
Appreciate the information and presentation.
I have a MK 4 1/2 FTR 55 in great shape only missing the clearing kit in the butt stock and sling but otherwise complete. I picked it up at a Big 5 sporting goods in 96 for $150 US. I’m curious about the Bren scope that was used on the sniper conversions and the feasibility of adding in a surplus if I can score one?
I know this video is old so if I don’t here back it’s fine but I’m thrilled as I almost went with a Mauser instead though I would’ve been ok now had I went that route. The Enfield just stood out and at the time the removable magazine was the deciding factor as it was the only one they had.
What about buttstock length? Did they make different lengths? I have a 1944 No4Mk2 whose buttstock is about one inch shorter than my other one made in the early 50s or late 40s. It would make sense to make different sizes as there's short and tall people.
I found a Long Branch LE, in very nice condition
Hello,Dad just gave me his, what type of gunsmith I should look for to get a precise evaluation for accuracy for it.
I just saw an Enfield No 4 Mark 2 on sale for £450. Soooooo tempted.
What does it mean when an Enfield 4 Mk. 1 has a white number on the buttstock.
Or what does it mean when a No.4 Mk. 1 bolt will spring back (but not come out) when you lift the bolt up?
I have a Savage No IV and it bears on the side exactly like your .22 does. Fantastic rifle otherwise, all matching, etc and I do not want to replace the stocks. What is the procedure to amend the side pressure at the muzzle? I'm thinking I can remove the top wood and lightly sand the vertical portions of the front bearing to open a gap. Thanks in advance for your reply!