I like it, the comment about needing to do a review on the sanding block. I think that you just did the best review ever. Here is one brand, here is another brand, and now here is the one which is going to show off everything that they missed. Can't get a better review than that.
@@TheRestoShed i learnt with the solid rubber block, a thong & by hand, lot's of changes since then, i like hearing of the new stuff they use today & especially all the different paints, primers & fillers
I learnt on the board files and the wide plastic clip boards with the foam base. That stuff was old even when I started! Chalk and cheese in comparison to what we have available now.
Yes that is very true! I still find myself using the others for some jobs but for long panels with curves and blocking panel to panel the Linear Blocks are my go-to.
ive had the linear blocks about 9 months now was using the Splines now i use them together But i love the Linear as they are easier to hold rather then making tape handles for the Splines... i got the Labor saver set combination of 8 Rigid & Flex & ultra flex from 8inch to 24 inch really wish i got the master set each size in each rigidity But that was $1100.00 odd dollars & wasnt that sure how great they would be, but when you think of the wasted primer & time refilling going round & round you cant go wrong.. there als is a 5 piece set available. great video well explained
Not knocking Splines at all but in my opinion and talking with one of the guys from Melomotive they are more of an application tool than a traditional sanding block of which their origins come from clay modelling/sculpting. But this is coming from my personal opinion, I haven’t done one of their courses yet to get the full experience. With the Linear Blocks I find because they shape themself to the panel and offer the rigidity, that one block can do many different shapes accurately and when used properly you’ll end up with filler/poly/primer only where you need it when sanding/shaping.
Have you noticed the linear blocks have became warped over time? I have 9 of them and all of them are not flat anymore as far as the width. Kinda starting to look like a U shape. Lay a straight edge across them and that's how you notice. They are still great blocks but mine are only getting have the surface contact they should be.
good comparison in a way but you are using the flex linear block but the rigid big kid block. they have thinner ones with more flex that would be a closer comparison
Painting cars is expensive! Quality tools cut down on time and also materials/consumables which aren’t getting any cheaper I might add. What you spend on consumables trying to get great results with inferior tooling soon outweighs the initial costs.
Oh no (they'll say) You can't sand in your paint booth (they'll say) You'll get dust in your paint and clog your filters (they'll say) They say a lot of shit that don't know about...looks good man
Of course it would have, but there wouldn’t have been any point as I’m only using the epoxy to seal the metal from any moisture and to do filler work over.
I don’t mind doing filler work so much as long as it is done properly. I haven’t used Rage Gold in probably 10 years, I remember it being much harder to rub than the 3M stuff.
@@TheRestoShed probably changed over the years. The 3m filler has changed also, it used to stink. 1 day of bog work and your clothes were fucked 🤣 I use the 3m platinum everyday at work it's really good stuff. Never tried the glaze tho, we use dolphin glaze. Keep up the good work man 👍
I recall the 3M Platinum Plus using the red hardener, unsure why the change. The Platinum Glaze is a bit better than Dolphin Glaze I reckon, doesn’t dry with that gummy layer on top. The bottle is much better than the bag too!
I found with the durablocks if there is a difference in hardness between layers fillers paints etc the durablocks won't feather the edge or step out just make it worse, guessing being soft and the hook and loop it's not stiff enough to cut through.
Yep it’s very common with any foam or hook/loop block. That’s why I mentioned in the start of the video I had issue chopping the filler flat with 80p on the dura block as it just didn’t have the cut I needed.
I like it, the comment about needing to do a review on the sanding block. I think that you just did the best review ever. Here is one brand, here is another brand, and now here is the one which is going to show off everything that they missed. Can't get a better review than that.
That was the idea behind this video.
Thanks for watching
Great video! 😎👍🏼
Great job mate 👍👍
Awesome video & explanation of the process you use, I had never heard of any of those blocks until now.
Thanks for watching
@@TheRestoShed i learnt with the solid rubber block, a thong & by hand, lot's of changes since then, i like hearing of the new stuff they use today & especially all the different paints, primers & fillers
I learnt on the board files and the wide plastic clip boards with the foam base.
That stuff was old even when I started!
Chalk and cheese in comparison to what we have available now.
Great and informative well presented video. Thanks from the UK
Great video.. there’s a block for every panel
Yes that is very true! I still find myself using the others for some jobs but for long panels with curves and blocking panel to panel the Linear Blocks are my go-to.
ive had the linear blocks about 9 months now was using the Splines now i use them together But i love the Linear as they are easier to hold rather then making tape handles for the Splines...
i got the Labor saver set combination of 8 Rigid & Flex & ultra flex from 8inch to 24 inch really wish i got the master set each size in each rigidity But that was $1100.00 odd dollars & wasnt that sure how great they would be, but when you think of the wasted primer & time refilling going round & round you cant go wrong.. there als is a 5 piece set available.
great video well explained
Not knocking Splines at all but in my opinion and talking with one of the guys from Melomotive they are more of an application tool than a traditional sanding block of which their origins come from clay modelling/sculpting.
But this is coming from my personal opinion, I haven’t done one of their courses yet to get the full experience.
With the Linear Blocks I find because they shape themself to the panel and offer the rigidity, that one block can do many different shapes accurately and when used properly you’ll end up with filler/poly/primer only where you need it when sanding/shaping.
Have you noticed the linear blocks have became warped over time? I have 9 of them and all of them are not flat anymore as far as the width. Kinda starting to look like a U shape. Lay a straight edge across them and that's how you notice. They are still great blocks but mine are only getting have the surface contact they should be.
Thanks mate. great video. I still have so much to learn. cheers
Thanks for watching.
Love you work, well explained.
Thanks for watching
Brilliantly informative video! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching.
Hey mate, my old man wants to know if you would do any paid jobs, he absolutely loves your work 👍👍
You’ll have to thank your dad from me for the compliment! Currently not looking though, sorry.
Durablock seems fine for commercial work but a bit hit and miss for a show car finish.
good comparison in a way but you are using the flex linear block but the rigid big kid block. they have thinner ones with more flex that would be a closer comparison
Looks like some good bits n pieces. Also look expensive.Certainly not for budget backyarders like myself.
Painting cars is expensive! Quality tools cut down on time and also materials/consumables which aren’t getting any cheaper I might add.
What you spend on consumables trying to get great results with inferior tooling soon outweighs the initial costs.
I bought various thickness acrylic sheets and tubing and made my own blocks for a fraction of the Linear cost.
Oh no (they'll say) You can't sand in your paint booth (they'll say) You'll get dust in your paint and clog your filters (they'll say) They say a lot of shit that don't know about...looks good man
Where else am I gonna do my bodywork/prep work? 🤣
I wonder if you applied guide coat powder to the roof (body filler) . Then blocked it out , it would definitely show highs and lows😊JR in Canada 🇨🇦
Of course it would have, but there wouldn’t have been any point as I’m only using the epoxy to seal the metal from any moisture and to do filler work over.
Throw the Durablock away if you want a true flat panel - Linear block is the go-to
The dreaded bog work 🤣 i use 3m filler at work but i have found the opposite, it hates 36grit, unlike rage gold.
I don’t mind doing filler work so much as long as it is done properly.
I haven’t used Rage Gold in probably 10 years, I remember it being much harder to rub than the 3M stuff.
@@TheRestoShed probably changed over the years. The 3m filler has changed also, it used to stink. 1 day of bog work and your clothes were fucked 🤣 I use the 3m platinum everyday at work it's really good stuff. Never tried the glaze tho, we use dolphin glaze. Keep up the good work man 👍
I recall the 3M Platinum Plus using the red hardener, unsure why the change.
The Platinum Glaze is a bit better than Dolphin Glaze I reckon, doesn’t dry with that gummy layer on top. The bottle is much better than the bag too!
@@TheRestoShed man I hate that bag lol.
I found with the durablocks if there is a difference in hardness between layers fillers paints etc the durablocks won't feather the edge or step out just make it worse, guessing being soft and the hook and loop it's not stiff enough to cut through.
Yep it’s very common with any foam or hook/loop block. That’s why I mentioned in the start of the video I had issue chopping the filler flat with 80p on the dura block as it just didn’t have the cut I needed.
@@TheRestoShed thats it, i might have to invest in some of those linear blocks one day