Rivets are for joining two pieces, not filing holes. The backup washer always goes on the weaker material side of the material to resist tear through. Putting a backup washer under the head adds no strength to the connection if the weaker material is on the far side.
You are right, the washer should go on weaker side of the material. However, these are blind rivets. In most situations where blind rivets are used you won't have access to the other side to apply the washer there.
@rapidrabbit7175 I'm an amateur DIY'er and not an expert, but recently I was reinstalling a car stereo speaker onto the car door that it had come off of. The rivets that I had did not have a very large flange and I was concerned that they wouldn't hold the speaker to the door properly. I needed to finish the job right away and I didn't want to drive down to the hardware store and get wider flange rivets. I added a rivet washer and the hole of the washer was just wider than the rivet that was going through both holes. Since it wasn't some heavy-duty application, but just holding a very light speaker to a car door, it worked out perfectly. I hope that was helpful.
Would have liked to see the side profile to examine the thickness and depth of the rivet with the washer through the materials. Only got to see the opposite side for a few seconds.
Most of your videos are good and informative, but this one is ... lacking. 1. If you going to set thick rivets, use a hydraulic or pneumatic tool, do not gouge the rivet like you did with large flange rivet. 2. You can use washer on "wrong" side of the rivet to prevent that type of gouging. Aircraft grade rivets, cherrymax, come with a washer behind the rivet for that exact purpose. 3. if you are tempted to add a washer under the flange, then most likely you will also need one on the back side, if you have access to it. 4. If you are using a rivet trying to "pull" materials together, most likely you want to use washer on the blind side. 5. If the only rivets you have are too long, you can use washers to build up thickness of material to leave 1.5x the diameter of the rivet sticking out. 1.5 de-burr the holes. Makes your work look more professional and people will pay more attention. Popping rivets is easy. Learning "little secrets" like #2 above is the reason why people look at videos like this one.
Thank you for the great advice! We often try to catch little tips and tricks that are picked up over the years by professionals in the industry. Often, these subtle details are what can make the difference in a project (as you said in 1.5). Thank you again for your suggestions.
They are indeed correct! But don't forget that we're dealing with blind rivets here. In most situations where blind rivets are used you won't have access to the other side to apply the washer there.
I wonder if a washer is applied in situations where the rivet is under torque stress typical of the part's application, to keep it from twisting in the hole when it's needed for stationary leverage .. to keep heat of friction and wear of the rivet to a minimum. Kind of like a locking washer to keep a screw from working its way out of a piece under vibration or occasional twisting during use. Not so much for stationary applications unless fortifying bonding of a weaker material to a stronger one.
I want to fasten a strip of vinyl fabric to my rolling duffel bag to protect the bottom part of the zipper from being damaged by the pavement when I set it down. The part that I need to fasten the vinyl strip to is corrugated plastic on the inside of the bag, covered by a sheet of thin plastic on the outside of the bag. What type of fastener should I use? Would you suggest I use a backup washer on the inner side of the bag to prevent the rivet from falling through?
I accidentally made the hole a lot bigger taking out a rivet. Now I'm in the process of having to put in a new one. will a rivet not hold correctly if the hole is slightly bigger? or how big is too big?
Hey Christian, You are correct! Rivets won't hold as well if the the hole is a bit bigger. You could use a tri-folding rivet instead, but it wouldn't be perfect. Better to find the right size rivet or, If you have access to the back of the hole, you can add use a rivet backup washer (appropriately sized) to make the hole smaller.
I have never bought a rivet before and want to rivet two 1/4 inch thick aluminum plates together (instead of welding)for a project but do not understand where to find the right size rivet or how to ask for the right rivet and riveter could you please point me in the right direction? maybe a part number and a website that understands the part number.
I need to rivet a piece of vyinal siding to another piece of siding from underneath, on the lip. I'm attaching an extra piece of siding over a repaired dryer vent hole that has been patched, what rivet do you suggest? This is the only reason I need to use rivets. Someone else told me they make rivet screws? I only need two.
Can you hammer the opposite side down if you have access to it? Can you put a washer on the other side and rivet/hammer it down if you have access to it?
Hammering the opposite side of a blind rivet, even with a washer on that side, would compromise the rivet's strength, grip, and weaken it. What are you trying to do with your application?
How can I add a washer before the rear end of the rivet that expands. I am planning riveting a 1.7 mm metal strip onto a 5 mm hollow pipe and I fear that the expanding rivet end will not be wide enough and tear through the thin pipe.
Because these are blind rivets, unless you have access to the opposite side of the installation, it is not possible to add a rivet washer to the expanding side. If you need something to expand further on the blind side to cover more area, we suggest using tri-bulb or tri-fold rivets. You can find those here: www.albanycountyfasteners.com/search.html?&Search=tri%20bulb
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners Really!! your offering advise on how to rivet carburetor linkage, Only a moron would rivet carb linkage the potential for binding could lead to a stuck open full throttle. Not a good idea at all!
I'm looking for a rivit that also looks good on the back side. This is for an aluminum kitchen tool with moving parts like a scissors. What would you suggest?
I would suggest a "Tubular Rivet" or "mating rivet"...they are two part rivets, the front and back are installed together, leaving a clean rivet finish on both sides.
The backside of a standard installed pop rivet resembles a cylinder with a bulbous section that prevents the rivet from falling through the installed material. It's best to leave these raised as trimming the back side of the rivet will remove the locking force of the rivet and cause them to fall apart.
At this time we unfortunately do not stock Double-Flush Rivets, but thank you for the suggestion! Keep an eye on your inbox for a possible future video on these special rivets.
While you can use a backup washer as show in the video its far more commonly used on the back side when there is access and the rivet is weaker and can pull through. Thats why its called a BACKUP WASHER . You didn't mention washer diameter, proper hole size and thickness options. You weakened the the install on the large flange rivet by wiggling the tool to break off the stud. Next time use a real pop rivet tool and a real man to squeeze it. Maybe you should think out and plan your videos before shooting instead of shooting from the hip
Rivets are for joining two pieces, not filing holes. The backup washer always goes on the weaker material side of the material to resist tear through. Putting a backup washer under the head adds no strength to the connection if the weaker material is on the far side.
You are right, the washer should go on weaker side of the material. However, these are blind rivets. In most situations where blind rivets are used you won't have access to the other side to apply the washer there.
True pro wrong size drill hole!
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners solution? I am using a thin. 5mm hollow pipe. Can push in a washer using forceps if that can work.
@rapidrabbit7175 I'm an amateur DIY'er and not an expert, but recently I was reinstalling a car stereo speaker onto the car door that it had come off of. The rivets that I had did not have a very large flange and I was concerned that they wouldn't hold the speaker to the door properly. I needed to finish the job right away and I didn't want to drive down to the hardware store and get wider flange rivets. I added a rivet washer and the hole of the washer was just wider than the rivet that was going through both holes. Since it wasn't some heavy-duty application, but just holding a very light speaker to a car door, it worked out perfectly. I hope that was helpful.
We use wide flange rivets with a washer on the backside of the rivet so that there is a flange on both sides of the (in my case) fiberglass pieces.
Thank you for your feedback.
I keep hearing the voice of AvE in my head saying "Focus you f***!" haha.
great video. I've been watching a few of your videos and, as I'm learning to use rivets, these videos have been super helpful ... thanks!
Thanks Metaspencer!
you can put a washer on the other side of the work works great
Yes, if you have access to the backside.
Is there a way to make the back side crush as wide as the front face?
Would have liked to see the side profile to examine the thickness and depth of the rivet with the washer through the materials. Only got to see the opposite side for a few seconds.
We have a new rivet video coming out over the next couple of weeks. Subscribe and click the bell so when my new video comes out you will be notified.
Most of your videos are good and informative, but this one is ... lacking.
1. If you going to set thick rivets, use a hydraulic or pneumatic tool, do not gouge the rivet like you did with large flange rivet.
2. You can use washer on "wrong" side of the rivet to prevent that type of gouging. Aircraft grade rivets, cherrymax, come with a washer behind the rivet for that exact purpose.
3. if you are tempted to add a washer under the flange, then most likely you will also need one on the back side, if you have access to it.
4. If you are using a rivet trying to "pull" materials together, most likely you want to use washer on the blind side.
5. If the only rivets you have are too long, you can use washers to build up thickness of material to leave 1.5x the diameter of the rivet sticking out.
1.5 de-burr the holes. Makes your work look more professional and people will pay more attention.
Popping rivets is easy. Learning "little secrets" like #2 above is the reason why people look at videos like this one.
Thank you for the great advice! We often try to catch little tips and tricks that are picked up over the years by professionals in the industry. Often, these subtle details are what can make the difference in a project (as you said in 1.5). Thank you again for your suggestions.
Excellent idea man go forward like this ideas 👍
P is correct ... i just watched this and shook my head . ill refrain from my true thoughts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They are indeed correct! But don't forget that we're dealing with blind rivets here. In most situations where blind rivets are used you won't have access to the other side to apply the washer there.
washer would never be needed in this location or wanted
I wonder if a washer is applied in situations where the rivet is under torque stress typical of the part's application, to keep it from twisting in the hole when it's needed for stationary leverage .. to keep heat of friction and wear of the rivet to a minimum. Kind of like a locking washer to keep a screw from working its way out of a piece under vibration or occasional twisting during use. Not so much for stationary applications unless fortifying bonding of a weaker material to a stronger one.
Thanks, your video was very Helpful. 🇹🇹👍
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
Please,give details video on removing stuck rivet pin
Subscribed! Great info, thanks.
Welcome to club! Thank you for your feedback.
Thanks again and again
Bien détaillé dans la vidéo, super bien
I want to fasten a strip of vinyl fabric to my rolling duffel bag to protect the bottom part of the zipper from being damaged by the pavement when I set it down.
The part that I need to fasten the vinyl strip to is corrugated plastic on the inside of the bag, covered by a sheet of thin plastic on the outside of the bag. What type of fastener should I use?
Would you suggest I use a backup washer on the inner side of the bag to prevent the rivet from falling through?
I accidentally made the hole a lot bigger taking out a rivet. Now I'm in the process of having to put in a new one. will a rivet not hold correctly if the hole is slightly bigger? or how big is too big?
Hey Christian,
You are correct! Rivets won't hold as well if the the hole is a bit bigger. You could use a tri-folding rivet instead, but it wouldn't be perfect. Better to find the right size rivet or, If you have access to the back of the hole, you can add use a rivet backup washer (appropriately sized) to make the hole smaller.
Cleaner look wide flange I use the washer for fabrics or thin Metals.
Thank you again....love your vids
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback.
Can you use any washer with same I.D. or do you have to only use in the category "backup washers" because they are more precise ?
I prefer the wide flange, like you said, no need to use the washer, unless you need the extra support.
Thanks
You're welcome. Thank you for your feedback.
I have never bought a rivet before and want to rivet two 1/4 inch thick aluminum plates together (instead of welding)for a project but do not understand where to find the right size rivet or how to ask for the right rivet and riveter could you please point me in the right direction? maybe a part number and a website that understands the part number.
This guy sounds like he's falling asleep and forgetting what he's su
Pose to say.
I need to rivet a piece of vyinal siding to another piece of siding from underneath, on the lip. I'm attaching an extra piece of siding over a repaired dryer vent hole that has been patched, what rivet do you suggest? This is the only reason I need to use rivets. Someone else told me they make rivet screws? I only need two.
Can you hammer the opposite side down if you have access to it? Can you put a washer on the other side and rivet/hammer it down if you have access to it?
Hammering the opposite side of a blind rivet, even with a washer on that side, would compromise the rivet's strength, grip, and weaken it. What are you trying to do with your application?
How can I add a washer before the rear end of the rivet that expands. I am planning riveting a 1.7 mm metal strip onto a 5 mm hollow pipe and I fear that the expanding rivet end will not be wide enough and tear through the thin pipe.
Because these are blind rivets, unless you have access to the opposite side of the installation, it is not possible to add a rivet washer to the expanding side. If you need something to expand further on the blind side to cover more area, we suggest using tri-bulb or tri-fold rivets. You can find those here: www.albanycountyfasteners.com/search.html?&Search=tri%20bulb
How do I install a rivet on a part that has to be able to move, ie, a carburetor part that has to move and flex?
Hi Bernard, Move up to the next grip range thus not squeezing the rivet up against the moving parts. The key is the grip range.
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners Really!! your offering advise on how to rivet carburetor linkage, Only a moron would rivet carb linkage the potential for binding could lead to a stuck open full throttle. Not a good idea at all!
The washer goes on the back side
A couple reasons for using a washer would be you are out on the sticks or in a hurry and have to work with what you've got.
5:00 i swear his hands are as weak as a toddlers lol
i laughed when i saw that, he prys on the gun instead of pumping it the rest of the way.
I'm looking for a rivit that also looks good on the back side. This is for an aluminum kitchen tool with moving parts like a scissors. What would you suggest?
I would suggest a "Tubular Rivet" or "mating rivet"...they are two part rivets, the front and back are installed together, leaving a clean rivet finish on both sides.
what does the back side of the rivet look like ? If it stand off away from a gutter do you trim them or leave raised?
The backside of a standard installed pop rivet resembles a cylinder with a bulbous section that prevents the rivet from falling through the installed material. It's best to leave these raised as trimming the back side of the rivet will remove the locking force of the rivet and cause them to fall apart.
Can you use them on the backside
Yes. That is where they are usually used.
I need rivets that are flushed/flat on both sides.. What should I look for?
What you are looking for is called a Pull-Thru Pop Rivet. It's designed to be flush on both sides.
pls contact me,email:xy@kseet,i will show you flat on both sides rivet
Which is the strongest rivete
Strongest in what way? In terms of holding power, corrosion resistance, how waterproof it is, versatility, or something else?
@@AlbanyCountyFasteners resistance in kilos of pressure
What do you mean resistance? Are you referring to a rivet's tensile strength, shear strength, or something else?
Can you show a double flush rivet. Flush on both sides? I have an application where rivet is visible from both sides.
At this time we unfortunately do not stock Double-Flush Rivets, but thank you for the suggestion! Keep an eye on your inbox for a possible future video on these special rivets.
Sound is very low
Don't twist the rivet gun before the pop, just keep it straight geez
the wide flange looks better.
Thank you for your feedback.
Можно меньше болтавни!!! Это очень раздражает!!!
Stick to selling.
Thank you!
While you can use a backup washer as show in the video its far more commonly used on the back side when there is access and the rivet is weaker and can pull through. Thats why its called a BACKUP WASHER . You didn't mention washer diameter, proper hole size and thickness options. You weakened the the install on the large flange rivet by wiggling the tool to break off the stud. Next time use a real pop rivet tool and a real man to squeeze it. Maybe you should think out and plan your videos before shooting instead of shooting from the hip
Thank you for your feedback.
Dude needs to work out he seems weak!!
Thank you for your feedback.
Should he pose with his shirt off?
Display his roid muscle?
Lol. It’s a rivet demo. Better head to muscle fitness section.