I really like your shirt..the Kitplanes logo in chartreuse is awesome against the blue (violet?). Plus, as a subscriber, I don't think I have ever seen the editor 'live'. Kitplanes is BY FAR the best homebuilt magazine; Sport Pilot is a PATHETIC corporate shill of a glossy rag-no ACTUAL normal homebuilder is re-building warplanes or vintage high dollar aircraft. However, EAA has some great features, articles when they have them, Hints for Homebuilders videos, and the SolidWorks student edition access. We are garage builders on a super budget, something the EAA at large has forgotten with their big corporate money, unlike Kitplanes, who actual caters to REAL builders. This video is a Great explanation of pulled rivets, super easy to understand and the camera work is well edited.
Pop is a name brand of blind rivets owned by Stanley, typically non-structural. Doesn’t mean they’re cheap - just use the right one for the right application.
Ha! "Im not going to pull a Cherry Max cuz they cost me about a dollar a piece." What a cheap date. Geez! All kidding aside, this series is GREAT. Tony Bingelis would be proud. Thanks Paul.
hello thank you for your extremely useful video, I work in aeronautics at the moment I have to replace rivets NAS1398C4-1, my problem is, after riveting I can see through the rivets of some other this case will have rivets of at the stem this box is too high, my question is, is it correct when I can't see the stem after the riveting?
Paul says, "In general, any structural rivet should be self-plugging, that is, the stem should lock in place. If you can see through the rivet, then the stem pulled through or fell out, and you have no real strength in the rivet. That would be bad in any primary structure. If it’s just a bit of cockpit trim or upholstery, it’s not a big deal, but anywhere else is a problem."
@@KitplanesMagazine thank you very much, your videos are a treasure of information, I will talk about you to the management of the company where I work, I would like us to stay in touch if you want, thank you.
You brought back memories of replacing Arctic Cat track cleats with my dad as a kid in the 70's. We would break (and even throw) tons of cleats as the northeast never got enough snow. Each cleat took 10 rivets and they were 3/16". ALL SQUEEZED BY HAND!!
Thanks for the video. I'm not a big rivot expert. I want to hang shower doors in a correctional facility. If I were to guess I'd say the doors weigh about 75 to 100 pounds. The hinges and door mount is stainless steel. We are currently trying to extract several broken stainless steel bolts. After that is done, I'm left to choose whether I want to rivot the doors up using a welder or some countersunk stainless steel rivots about 3/16". I dont know the depth I can work with until I hit brick, but I'm not sure if simple stainless steel blind rivots or structural rivots will do the trick on this application. If you were required to re hang heavy shower doors to stainless steel after extracting several small broken bolts (11 per door) what rivot and gun would you choose?
Hi, if we are using aluminium poprivets with a stainless mandrel, is that going to build electrolitic corrosion ? If al little water makes stainless connecting to aluminium isnt that going to slowly pit ?
when are we gonna see air riveters that also pre-bore the hole with a hard tipped plunger ? Air pressure is already there, it would probably only need a wider face, where the changeable proper sized tip plunger could be housed , and operable by a thumb switch that opens up the air access ,so the plunger can do its thing.
Great info but I wish you zoomed in more. No idea what the wedge looks like. I imagine it’s just a wedge that the tip rests against but would have been nice to see it in action.
Is it possible to use blind rivets for high-strength structural applications that leave a near-perfect dome, as opposed to a dome with an indentation in the middle, please? I saw some rivets in your test workpiece that had such perfect domes. Are they blind rivet types?
I have a couple questions that I would like to see addressed in a future video about pulled rivets. I have seen TH-cam videos by builders and occasionally they say the plans specify that pulled rivets be pulled with the head on one side of pieces being joined and not the other. I some cases it looks like it would be easier to pull one from the other side. Does it really matter which side they are pulled on, providing we are talking about internal structures and not the skins of a surface? If so, wouldn't using a longer pulled rivet with a stainless steel washer on it be just as good?
Another trick when the rivet is too close to something to allow the rivet puller to remain perfectly perpendicular to the rivet head is to simply grind down one side of the nose of the puller - typically a hand puller as they're not nearly as expensive as a pneumatic puller!
I really like your shirt..the Kitplanes logo in chartreuse is awesome against the blue (violet?). Plus, as a subscriber, I don't think I have ever seen the editor 'live'. Kitplanes is BY FAR the best homebuilt magazine; Sport Pilot is a PATHETIC corporate shill of a glossy rag-no ACTUAL normal homebuilder is re-building warplanes or vintage high dollar aircraft. However, EAA has some great features, articles when they have them, Hints for Homebuilders videos, and the SolidWorks student edition access. We are garage builders on a super budget, something the EAA at large has forgotten with their big corporate money, unlike Kitplanes, who actual caters to REAL builders. This video is a Great explanation of pulled rivets, super easy to understand and the camera work is well edited.
Pop is a name brand of blind rivets owned by Stanley, typically non-structural. Doesn’t mean they’re cheap - just use the right one for the right application.
Ha! "Im not going to pull a Cherry Max cuz they cost me about a dollar a piece." What a cheap date. Geez!
All kidding aside, this series is GREAT. Tony Bingelis would be proud. Thanks Paul.
Milwaukee makes a really nice M12 Pop rivet puller! About $200
Thank you, I found your video riveting!
hello thank you for your extremely useful video, I work in aeronautics at the moment I have to replace rivets NAS1398C4-1, my problem is, after riveting I can see through the rivets of some other this case will have rivets of at the stem this box is too high, my question is, is it correct when I can't see the stem after the riveting?
Paul says, "In general, any structural rivet should be self-plugging, that is, the stem should lock in place. If you can see through the rivet, then the stem pulled through or fell out, and you have no real strength in the rivet. That would be bad in any primary structure. If it’s just a bit of cockpit trim or upholstery, it’s not a big deal, but anywhere else is a problem."
@@KitplanesMagazine thank you very much, your videos are a treasure of information, I will talk about you to the management of the company where I work, I would like us to stay in touch if you want, thank you.
You brought back memories of replacing Arctic Cat track cleats with my dad as a kid in the 70's. We would break (and even throw) tons of cleats as the northeast never got enough snow. Each cleat took 10 rivets and they were 3/16". ALL SQUEEZED BY HAND!!
Thanks for the video. I'm not a big rivot expert. I want to hang shower doors in a correctional facility. If I were to guess I'd say the doors weigh about 75 to 100 pounds. The hinges and door mount is stainless steel. We are currently trying to extract several broken stainless steel bolts. After that is done, I'm left to choose whether I want to rivot the doors up using a welder or some countersunk stainless steel rivots about 3/16". I dont know the depth I can work with until I hit brick, but I'm not sure if simple stainless steel blind rivots or structural rivots will do the trick on this application. If you were required to re hang heavy shower doors to stainless steel after extracting several small broken bolts (11 per door) what rivot and gun would you choose?
Be sure to use a drill one size smaller than your rivet width, when drilling out rivets. 👍
Hi, if we are using aluminium poprivets with a stainless mandrel, is that going to build electrolitic corrosion ? If al little water makes stainless connecting to aluminium isnt that going to slowly pit ?
ou speak so disparagingly of pop rivets here. You know that the company POP is the inventor of blind rivets, the type of rivets.
Thanks sir
खोलकर सही केसे करे
when are we gonna see air riveters that also pre-bore the hole with a hard tipped plunger ?
Air pressure is already there, it would probably only need a wider face, where the changeable proper sized tip plunger could be housed , and operable by a thumb switch that opens up the air access ,so the plunger can do its thing.
Great info but I wish you zoomed in more. No idea what the wedge looks like. I imagine it’s just a wedge that the tip rests against but would have been nice to see it in action.
How do you decide which nose piece is correct?
Is it possible to use blind rivets for high-strength structural applications that leave a near-perfect dome, as opposed to a dome with an indentation in the middle, please? I saw some rivets in your test workpiece that had such perfect domes. Are they blind rivet types?
CherryMAX rivets are structural, but all blind rivets will have a sheared stem in the center of the rivet. www.cherryaerospace.com/product/cherrymax
@@KitplanesMagazine, many thanks.
I have a couple questions that I would like to see addressed in a future video about pulled rivets. I have seen TH-cam videos by builders and occasionally they say the plans specify that pulled rivets be pulled with the head on one side of pieces being joined and not the other. I some cases it looks like it would be easier to pull one from the other side. Does it really matter which side they are pulled on, providing we are talking about internal structures and not the skins of a surface? If so, wouldn't using a longer pulled rivet with a stainless steel washer on it be just as good?
hello from iraq with you well done
Another trick when the rivet is too close to something to allow the rivet puller to remain perfectly perpendicular to the rivet head is to simply grind down one side of the nose of the puller - typically a hand puller as they're not nearly as expensive as a pneumatic puller!