Harley Davidson and the Click of Dread
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video we'll go over the what, how and why's of the HD click of dread. **PLEASE NOTE: In this video I said to disconnect the Positive (+) lead from the battery. I meant to say Negative (-). You can disconnect the positive lead but please take care to not short the wrench to the ground post or anything metal on the bike. If in doubt - pull the Negative (-) lead first. **
This is why Kick Starters should be on every bike .
Absolutelyposituvely
😇🌗😈
The way he presents the information is hands down amazing. He made it so simple to understand. Keep up the videos boss 🤘
I've watched a lot of videos and you are the first one to explain
"the click of death". That is exactly what my bike is doing. Off to buy a relay switch.
Thanks
Best of luck!! Let me know how it ends up working out.
Lol same happened after wash
This cured it immediately. Just needed to polish the pitting on the copper contact points. Really appreciate the video.
God bless!
Nice!! Glad to hear it helped.
Excellent!!!! This is a great presentation and explanation of the problems you can have with these old bikes> Thanks!!!
Just purchased a new to me road king. This was an excellent help to chase the click! You’re the man!
Really good job explaining everything. I feel like I now have a clear path of attack to fix my bike. Big thumbs up bro. Thx.
Thank you for the thorough and informative information on this. I have watched a few vids on the dreaded click. I had heard someone mention adding another relay but they did not go into the detail as you have. Cheers. I am also going to add the "chopper button" to the solenoid for emergency backup on my 95 fatboy. Again I greatly appreciate your video !
I highly recommend the "chopper button" of which you speak. I did a video on such and put one on my ride as a fail safe.
I'm surprised no one has liked or commented yet. Thank you for this video. You may have just saved me removing my starter to resolve the "Click, Click" coming from my solenoid on my '99 FXDX. I really do miss kick-starters.
Thanks! I'm glad you liked the video. I know since I've done the work my bike cranks over 1st try, each and every time! I hope this fix helps with your problem. Please come back and let me know if it helped out with your "click of dread" issue!
Man, wish I found this first. Fantastic overview and now I feel totally comfortable tracing my click down after having replaced the battery (was old), regulator, and relay. My issue was intermittent then just stopped altogether so I need to dig in to the solenoid. THANK YOU!
Make sure to check your grounds out as well, especially on the relay! Good luck!!
Just got my click of dread on my 93 Dyna. Battery putting out over 13 to 14 volts but... click click click. Your video was a great help and just wanted to say thank you! Ok, I’m going out to the garage now and start checking the connections, then go with a starter relay if needed. Last resort is rebuilding the stock solenoid or getting a bypass switch. Thanks again!
Glad to hear the video was of some use. Thank you.
Best video I've seen on starter issues thanks very much!
Thank you for the compliment.
One of the best explanations on youtube, you outdid Doc Harley.
Thank you for the compliment.
You remind me of one of my teachers in college, "its an open, or a short". Well done. And i am finding that " cheap" is a relative term, esp. when talking H.D. rebuilds. I think i want a new bike.
You are right, cheap is a relative term and unfortunately too many people cheap out in the wrong areas. I'm a firm believer that one should never cheap out when it comes to their brakes or their tires and this is especially true when it comes to their motorcycles!! I also feel the same way about the batteries on motorcycles since they are typically not easy to get to, they tend to die w/o warning and walking sucks. The battery insurance is even more true today since today's bikes rely so many more on electronic-esq things (fuel injection, engine computer, etc) then they did in the past.
I have the dreaded click sound which I believe is coming from the starter solenoid. It started doing it a few days ago but would start like you were saying after a few tries. Not until yesterday, while it was in the garage, would it not start at all. This is a 2005 Dyna Wide Glide Twin Cam. I'm going to go through this procedure and make sure everything is clean and probably change the relay while I'm at it and also check the ground wire from the relay. I'm not sure on the '05 Twin Cam but supposedly on the older Evo's Harley-Davidson used a thin guage ground wire that could build up excessive resistance after some years and a fix for that is to install a heavier gage ground wire. If this one has a thin guage wire I'll probably go ahead and swap it out with a heavier one while I'm at it for some extra insurance. 👍
Thanks for the informative video!
Outstanding presentation.
This video just helped me a ton! Thank you 🤙
Thank you Malcolm you shed some light on some problems. I'm having having with 91 Sportster I've got that dreaded click click in the starter. So the next time I'm home I drive a truck for a living I am going to do what you said cuz my relay is missing the plug where the blades are. so I took that off one time so I got to look in the replacing that and I am going to clean the starter and the contacts but thank you again for that helpful tips.
Outstanding video.. complete and thorough👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the great and informative vid. 66 early shovel same issue. Will replace relay for starters... 🤪
good stuff john, thanks. helped me to fix my 90 fxrs. i pulled the relay and gave it a couple smacks and it started working again. i just ordered two. two is one, one is none as they say.
Hey Rod, glad to hear this helped out.
Hey man thanks for the information you've been a lot of help you save me a lot of money
Kits are less than 25 bucks online including plunger and side contacts, so given the effort involved and the high cost of primary cover gasket and seal kits I would only sand contacts in some dire emergency. Much love for the outstanding design of those very popular starter motors. I install pushbutton end covers on mine as a rule, but ya can drill the center of the cover and use a screwdriver (round shank preferred) to start the bike until you get a pushbutton.
Thanks a lot for this detailed video, my 1993 fat boy been dead for three months and not starting at all, i cleaned up the copper on the plunger and boom , my bike started right away. really appreciate you putting this video up and helping us out with this issue , that saved me ton of money.
Hey glad to read it helped out! Safe travels!!
Thanks for the update and video. I own a 1999 fxstb and having that clicking and not starting. I'll give all your information a try 👍
Best of luck to ya!! Hopefully this will help get you back on the road.
All of the things you mention here can and will give you problems and I went through all of these 'fix's' back in the day on a 1990 Sportster. I also found that when I pulled the plunger out of the solenoid there didn't seem to be much pressure from the spring that kept the plunger disengaged from the contacts - indeed the starter had 'over-run' a few times despite my taking my thumb off the button when the engine fired. Said spring was then coaxed out of the solenoid housing and found to be 'packed' with grease that hat had dried out over the years and become solid - thereby making it harder to compress the spring and - more importantly - stopped the spring extending properly.
This made the plunger hard to move and caused the starter relay to 'over-work' and burn the contacts. Remedy was to clean the hardened grease residue from the plunger spring, re-coat with new lighter grease - just enough to stop the spring corroding - and refit everything..... NEVER had a problem again !
Thakery, your story reminds me of Japanese dot matrix printers back in the day (day being the 1980's and the brand Star Micronics comes to mind) where the grease they used would harden and gum up after a few years. I can't say I've ever seen that kind of a problem with a starter but there is always a first for everything and I thank you for sharing your tip.
@ Thakery Yep last sled I had with kicker I installed was '76 Bicentennial Model FLH . The kicker kit allowed me to use an Easy Rider's Tech Tip diagram to remove and throw , literally , the vast majority of the 54 stock wires on that Dresser . Been push button or plain push starts ever since . At least this gave my leg leg time to grow muscle and my right leg to atrophy a little !!!! They are almost equal now after all those years . LOL ..... Thanks for some Golden memories Malcontent corner , great video .
had that trouble for years untill some one made the solenoid cover button..solved the problem ..use it on both Softail and my 99tc love it...thks for the vid
Yeah, the 2nd video I ever did was for the fix which you mentioned in your comment. I love it as a 'fail safe'.
A big thanks from Canada
A big frosty owed to you here as well
We live in Frost lol
What? It is cold in Canada? LOL
This class was amazingly helpful. I appreciate you.
Awesome tutorial, thank you so much
Thanks for the great tutorial! Now I can start fixing.
Good luck on your repair!!
Best video I have found on this problem. I just got this problem. Your video helped allot. I can't wait to start testing and fixing this problem. Got to get my girl back on the road.
I also subscribed.
Thanks for your comment. Do let me know if the relay fixes your problem.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner The relay and battery were replaced and fixed the starting problem. Going for a ride right now.
@@DPWingo : FANTASTIC NEWS!! Thank you for letting me know. Be safe out there and keep the rubber side down.
Thanks for that great explanation
Thank you that was brilliant and a big help
I think you just saved me a boat load of cash... my bike has a case of the clicks, but if I push start it, she runs fine. Figure as long as I have to get my hands dirty, that's going to be a new relay (possibly 18 years old by now) and a solenoid rebuild for good measure. Worth the $30 to keep it out of the shop and on the road... Next time you are in San Diego, I owe you a frosty adult style beverage.
Hey that's great! I'm glad you found the video useful. And you are on for that beverage! ;-)
Thanks for the tips, buddy
Heading back out to the garage and believe! Thx!
Hope it all works out!
I’m buying a spare relay to keep in the bike bag as a backup/just in case. At least I can eliminate THAT being the issue should it happen on the road. Great video and very informative 👍😉
Thanks! I'm glad to hear you found the video to be of some use.
Just push start it and boogie back to the shop
Cheers mate
that was great !
Excellent !!!!! thank you.
on my 03 Electra glide, she would take several tries to finally start, pulled off the solenoid cover, pulled plunger sure enough ... the contacts and washer both so smutty and dirty, cleaned them , put all back, yes reconnected battery, haha boom started no problem....thanks bro... end of my click of dread!!!!!
Hey that's great news! I'm glad that this video helped out and hope for you that cleaning the contacts is all that was causing your issue. Watch out though- that 'click of dread' can be a sneaky bugger. I did the same thing you did and thought I had it fixed but *surprise* it came back...and at the worst time possible- while waiting to get on a car ferry. That prompted me dig further which lead to me making this video.
My 1200 Sporty has this. Thanks for the vid brother. So I need to dismantle it during winter.
Sporty is a bit of a different animal in the starter setup so, IMO, I'd check your relay(s), grounding wire(s) and such beforehand. Rule out the easiest 1st, you know?
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner OK I will. Thanks Bro!
Ha! So glad I found this video!!! Thank you Malcontent. Solved my problem. I'm subscribed. 2003 1200 sportster. First Harley. Know nothing, like Sgt. Shultz. Thanks again.
Finally well explained 👍
you are a super teacher. thank you so much.
Thank you for the nice comment. I do appreciate it.
Malcontent corner I subscribed. I just got my second sporty ever today. It’s an 05 and the positive battery terminal is all like chewed up, so In other words the battery is trash. Could this be the problem for my clicking?
@@miketheike-bb8bj: Hi Mike, your comment got lost and I just found it so sorry for the delay in my reply. If the terminal is all chewed up and if you don't know how old the battery is, I would replace it just so you know where you stand. Is it the problem? Could be but can't say 100%. A new battery though does put one of the possible issues to bed.
Your video starts out defining exactly my problem: click, click, click, boom... then works fine the rest of the day.
So I installed a new relay, rebuilt the solenoid w/new copper parts, cleaned all the wiring connections (sanded in most cases) AND I STILL HAVE the same click of death problem but actually worse because now I can't start the bike no matter how many attempts. I took the solenoid back apart, double-checked everything, put it all back together and still SOL.
One fine day I'll have my bike back in service! (1995 Bad Boy Springer) Thanks for the video, even though it didn't help me.
Hiya Jeff. Unfortunately with so many parts in the circuit, any # of things can cause this issue. If you put a 12v jumper directly to the solenoid (being careful to not short the lead to ground and making sure your bike is NOT in gear) you can eliminate the starter/solenoid from the list of possible issues. If that works and the starter engages like it should and crank the engine then you may want to start looking at either a possible faulty ground or corroded connection. You may also want to look at my video about the solenoid cover that has a push button on it!! They are a life saver.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner Hey thanks for your time and advise. I didn't try jumping the solenoid (in neutral). I did clean up and sand all wiring connections already. I nearly bought the push-button cover but figured it was not a solution considering I couldn't any results by manually press in the "plunger" with the cover off.
After much frustration, I'm removing my starter & replacing it with a new one that arrived today. One starter bolt was frozen... almost stripped it removing it but succeeded. I had to remove the oil tank for any reasonable access. I'll have to remove the primary cover because there's a nut & retaining ring connected to the starter from that side of the bike - which means new primary oil & gasket as well.
Thanks again for your thoughts and ideas. I'll let you know if the new starter solves my problems - it better, damn it! Be well and ride safe!
@@Jeff82556 No problem, mate. Just trying to help out however I can. Your statement "couldn't (get) any results by manually press in the "plunger" with the cover off" sounds fishy to me. You are correct in that if you couldn't get any results doing that then the cover with button would not help. If you can engage that plunger AND get the starter to spin/crank you eliminate that as a unit unless it is intermittent. However if you cannot get it to spin by manually pushing that plunger in, then it's looking like a starter/solenoid issue. And please do let me know how this all works out for you. I'd be interested to know if a new unit resolves your issue! Best of luck and keep the rubber side down.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner Thought I'd let you know that - even after installing a new starter, it still does that damn click, won't engage the starter.
So now I'm out of ideas and will likely give up for a while. I went through all routes with no solution - good battery, new relay, new starter, verified good wiring. I have no "next step' to take. Take care.....
@@Jeff82556 Did you try going from the + of the battery to the solenoid? Again- having the bike in neutral? If you do, and you still have the click, check your battery. Even new ones go bad.
Just experienced this on my very first Harley. I have driven it exactly once lol! It is a 1991 Electra. I ordered the push button cap, be here Sunday! Thankfully it happened at home!
The push button solenoid cover is a GREAT fail safe, IMO.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner I ordered a repair kit for the solenoid. While installing it I discovered the solder on one of the leads to the windings had let go. That was my no start problem. Oh well, the new contacts are installed and the bike starts once again.
@@SilverPaladin Ahh, a broken lead? 12V DC typically won't arc the gap. ;-) Nice job at the repair!
@@SilverPaladinthanks for this info. I have a “no start” as well. No click no nothing. Just keeps sounding like the fuel pump primes when I hit the start button. I ordered my repair kit this morning, and can’t wait to start plugging away.
@@joeykahng6219 when I installed my kit, it turns out one of the leads had de-soldered and was flapping in the wind. I soldered it back down and problem solved! Then I had to use the push button cause the starter button stopped working, and that turned out to be a bad ground wire.
You actually want to disconnect your negative lead. Negative lead is always first off and last on. On my Harley it's also significantly easier to access the negative terminal on the battery than the positive. With only the negative removed it will not matter if the positive is then accidentally grounded, no damage will be done.
Yes, I covered my filming 'mistake' in the video description. However if one is careful pulling the positive first will not be much of an issue.
basic idea 100 percent only way
Daniel Campbell (below) has the perfect test for the solenoid! I believe I did that the first time around but hadn't when the situation started again.
Thanks for your comment. Daniel's way of testing is a good test however one has to be careful to not short out the test lead. I can't say I 'recommend' it however considering the way some peeps are gorking out about me saying to pull the positive lead off the battery 1st which was just a mistake in filming.
You are describing everything I've been experiencing with the exception that my is a 2020.
2020? Sounds like a warranty claim to me.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner Right on. Thank you sir.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner UPDATE: As it turns out, it was the battery, and it was covered under warranty. I have an old truck though that would do the exact same thing periodically. When ever it decided to act up I would crawl underneath and smack it with a mallet to dislodge it. Anyway, that was before I replaced it and the problem went away.
@@dontworrybehappy8080 Glad you got her fixed up in time for the season!!
My problem the solenoid plug was vibrating lose .. the lock was broken off and I was losing connect
I'm going through the exact same thing I got a 94 FXR and it starts and then it don't start I have to clean off all the terminals and cuz they're coming it's not getting to the starter and when it does it starts perfectly I did replace the the relay a couple years back but maybe I'll get a new relay too and the battery is about 5 years old so thanks for the information fingers crossed say a prayer
You're absolutely right, things like this don't happen when you're in your driveway; these things happen too me when I'm 1,500 miles from home, in a state I've never been in, in the middle of nowhere with no cellphone service, and 2, maybe 3 cars that pass by every hour.
IKR? Watch my video of the solenoid cover with the built in plunger. It really is worth having a fail safe way to start the bike just for the reasons you just wrote about!!
Happened to me in the driveway.
Got the "click of dread" yesterday, and mine is doing exactly what yours did, clicked and then started and didn't have a problem the rest of the day. It had sat for a week and half and didn't have the problem before, just started out of the blue. Had the battery on the tender the night before my ride. I checked battery with voltmeter and it showed 12.7 volts, 14 volts while motor was running so the stator was good as well. Took the battery to Battery Plus they tested it and said it was good. Was starting to worry about the starter....expensive fix....then saw your video going to try starter relay and see if that does the trick.....thanks.
Glad the video helped you and I hope it fixes the issue. Depending on your bike you may want to look at the video I did on the solenoid cover with push button for extra insurance.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner I did, I got a '12 Road King I bought a relay switch and the push button cover last night from Dennis Kirk...lol...thanks again.
I also have the click! Mine is a single click and I notice the batt voltage drops. My first attempt also was the relay,... and I thought I had it beat. Then it came back. I would like to get an amp meter on that solenoid line to see what it's pulling. I'm sure their is a spec. My best guestimate after my ventures is a weak solenoid. But on our model you need to pull the primary cover to get the starter assembly out, best I can surmise from the manual and a youtube video. My temp fix was to drill a hole in that end cap on the solenoid. Jam it with a #2 Philips. Off you go!
*LOL* A McGyver solution at its best!!
Great video, thanks for the info. Just started having this problem and thought it might be the starter relay.
Thanks for the input. Best of luck with your repair. Let me know if the relay fixed the issue.
my 84' fxst first year with EVO came with the 4-speed with kicker
Spot On !
clean the starter relay plug with a electrical cleaner too... also clean all connections and relay ground wire too... clean all breakers connections and both ends of battery cables...
I had the click of dread for one whole summer before it got diagnosed and treated correctly. Plus my magneto and the stater were wonky. Got the whole system replaced by a good outfit.
I have a 91 fxrs-sp, I've replaced all components, cleaned commutator and brushes, put new contacts in solenoid. Replaced relay. I even hooked my truck battery directly to the system..
And my starter still will not trun over the bike..
i don't knowmwhatbelse to do.
I have bench tested the starter and it engages great..I'm at a lose. Any more suggestions??
So what happens when you try the starter on the bike? Does it spin? Exactly what is it doing?
I have a proplame that happened on the circute ;
1_ some time being lazy with heating and comes like a bad odor and color of the coil ring winding is black
2_other time I begin to start it seems like deactive then I try or reattempts after that start successful but with heating ..
So should it need winding ? or it is damaged
Sounds like you have a bad starter/solenoid. Might be time for a replacement. Especially is your windings are all burnt up as you describe.
Thank you...
I have a 1993 FXR and the click of dread syndrome. It's already had a solenoid rebuild, so I'm going to try replacing the starter relay. Thanks for the tip! On another topic, ever had spark plug fouling issues? My plugs will last one or two rides and then I have to replace the spark plugs because of backfiring. I've adjusted the fuel/air mix ratio to no avail, and may attempt a carb rebuild/replacement. Any thoughts?
Fouling plugs? Ok..I'm assuming your bike isn't blowing blue exhaust smoke when running (that would be burning oil) but probably is running rich and is showing black smoke when riding. So first off, keep in mind that there is a difference between the idle circuit of a carb and the cruise circuit. Your A/F screw is for idle. Cruise is typically through jets or metering rods. On the CV carbs jetting is controlled by a vaccum slide in the carb (access is through the black cap on top of the carb and you can see it through the carb opening). With the bike off, make sure your slide moves freely. Also check to make sure your choke isn't stuck in a full or partial on position. If they seem okay, I'd have a look in the carb (with goggles one to protect your eyes from gas, flames, etc..in fact, a face shield is better) with the engine running. You should see that slide moving up and down as you rap the throttle. If not...I'd suspect a bad diaphragm on the vacuum slide assy. Other than a plugged port somewhere I'd lay odds on the diaphragm but that is my arm chair opinion. Hope it helps.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner The choke does stay open unless I push it in. If I push it in too early, the engine will cut out until it is warmed up. I'm thinking plugged jets and/or slide assy. I'm newly retired, so this may be my 1st DIY carb rebuild. Thanks for your input.
@ Edgar- Oh good....glad to hear the choke seems to be working correctly. One down and X to go. One other thing I thought of but didn't get to post originally was the possibility of a bad needle valve on the float or (rare) a bad float. Your engine is getting too much gas now the sleuthing comes into the 'whys' of it. Best of luck!
Informative as shit dude. Awesome video.
Hi amazing content! m facing a similar issue on my vrod muscle 2010. The light on the dash disappears after I press the ignition switch and I hear that 'click of dread'. It comes back on after resetting the three way main switch and the cycle repeats. Is it a short circuit or starter relay issue because the battery shows a 12+ V at the terminals. Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!
Hi Ankur, Honestly I don't know the VRod starting system at all but when it comes to starting remember this: the big point isn't the voltage- it is the amperage! That's why batteries are measured in CCA (cold cranking amps). I'd have to ask off hand- how old is your battery?
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner What you are suggesting was actually the problem. Few days back, I took my battery for a quick check and indeed it's CCA was less than the spec value. Got it replaced the engine fired up in the first attempt. Thanks for the response though, appreciate it!
Hi, just replaced the starter clutch in my '92 FXRS-SP as that seemed to be the problem, after the process of elimination. After all the work was done it was not the problem, same dreaded click after 1/2 revolution. Contacts cleaned, wires replaced etc. Seems now, like not enough juice getting to the solenoid {hence the wiring fixes} Any suggestions? Someone said the small ground to the starter might need up sizing? Thx.
Hi Don, well I'd start off at the beginning- How is the battery in your ride? Fairly new or several years old? If okay, you could, if careful (and at your own hazard) run a 12v + line from the battery to the energizing input on the solenoid and see how that works thereby elimnating the circuit. If it works like it should, then I would say you have some corrosion in the circuit. And yes, that could mean a bad ground of some sort (wire with corrosion in it.). If it doesn't work I'd guess a bad solenoid, sticky plunger, etc.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner Hi and thx. for the tips. After replacing the starter clutch I discovered I had purchased a cheap battery and replaced it with better one {$200.00 +} and that was also a part of my issue. All good now but ran out of insurance for the year. Thx again.
@@donmacaulay2021 : Glad to hear you got your ride running again! Sorry to hear about the insurance situation but there is always next year!!
Just watched your vid; thanks. Wife's has a 93 Heritage and has the dreaded click and had to push start from lunch today. I am going to try that tomorrow as opposed to taking the starter out WHICH SUCKS! If they are to far gone I will have to pull and replace the contacts. I can not find them in the parts manual, suggestions. Thanks again.
Hi Marc. Sorry to hear that you had to push start the bike. Never fun. As for the contacts, I assume you mean the ones in the solenoid? If so, just get a solenoid rebuild kit as it comes with everything you'll need. You can pick them up at J&P cycle for about $22. You can also pick up the starter relay from the retailer. You may also want to watch my video on the solenoid cover with start button. It's a good fail safe to have in place. Hope that helps.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner i was going to just rebuild but all the trouble taking out i figured id change out starter to. Ill rebuild old one for spare and experience.
I have a 2008 Harley 1200xl custom anniversary. What’s the difference between click of dread and a starter that sounds like a car starter when it’s bad…a lot of clicks not just a few??
Heh, heh, well let me ask you- When you are on the road how many clicks does it take to ruin the day? Especially if you cannot get the bike started? Anything more than a few clicks is something I'd say is pretty dreadful!! But to somewhat answer your question: IF a starter can crank the engine over easily when working and fully engaged then is it somewhat safe to say that the starter is good. This of course doesn't rule out dead spots on the armature, flaky grounds or intermittent wiring either to or in the starter which is why I said "somewhat safe". However if it doesn't engage the ring gear completely or at all OR doesn't even spin up then you probably have a bendix gear problem (old school starters) or a solenoid problem which isn't completing the power circuit to power up the starter. Again- probably. The art form is in the troubleshooting but as always- intermittent problems are the worst to deal with.
So what is it when i just bought a brand new duralast gold battery for my 2005 harley 883 custom and as soon as i put the new battery in and went to fire it up just a gang of clicking but it was really fast clicking not thr normal speed of clicking it usually would be
Hi Victor...so did you have the problem before? I assume not, but that is just an assumption. I'd make sure you have clean and tight connections on the battery.
1990 HD Sportster 1200, replaced battery, replaced Ignition Relay, Replaced Circuit breakers, Cleaned all contact surfaces & wire plugins. When I hit start it clicks rapidly like a machine gun or will just click once. Have not figured out the problem.
Please any suggestions, assuming I need to replace the whole starter.
I'm not saying you should do this but if I were in your shoes, I would try running a +12 volt line to the solenoid input plug (it's bladed) being VERY careful to not ground it out and making sure I had my bike in neutral. If the starter worked like it should then it is something in the circuit feeding the solenoid. If not, then would suspect either have a bad/low chg battery or a bad solenoid. The main issue that I see is that the starter is a royal PAIN to get to on the Sportsters and unfortunately I'm not too well versed in them.
So glad I found this. Clear, concise and straight to the point - a fantastic video, thank you!
What I do in this situation is I take a jumper wire from battery positive directly to solenoid primary connection. If it still clicks it is a solenoid problem and if starter turns properly it's a switch/relay problem.
Nice troubleshooting. Personally I'd do the same if I suspected the solenoid in my situation but I knew it wasn't the solenoid itself. However, and this is for some of my viewers, if you try this technique do be careful when attempting such!! You don't want to short anything out in the process!
My 2005 Sportster has always been hard staring even with a new battery on a tender. It will do one big lug then start cranking over more quickly. Do you think the relay could be the issue with mine too?
Honestly, if I understand the problem correctly it sounds more like a grounding or possibly a starter problem. Typically the relay won't allow the solenoid to engage fully. From what you describe it sounds like slow cranking at first with it picking up speed as you crank on. You can jumper directly from the 12+ on the battery directly to the solenoid plug (note: be careful) to remove the start circuit from the equation. If the problem still exist then you know the issue is with the starter itself.
Malcontent corner I checked my battery cables which weren’t as tight as I’d like then cleaned all the connection with a wire brush & 400 grit sandpaper. Also cleaned the contacts on the starter really. It helped a liiitle but I decided to look at my started solenoid itself. It was pretty dirty so I hit that with contact cleaner & sanded the copper contacts too. Definitely helped. Still not easy starting but much better. I wanted to attach my battery booster pack to see if my battery just wasn’t as healthy as I thought. But, of course, the pack is dead. lol
I have a 2000 FXDL and when I hit the starter button it just makes a constant whirring sound and does not engage the ring gear. Any ideas on what is broken, a mate said the bendix gear but I do not know. Appreciate any advise you can give me. Cheers from down under.
If your hear the starter whirring away, which is sounds like it is, and the drive gear isn't engaging, then I would have to say that it "sounds" like the bendix gear assy is bad. HOWEVER.... before canning the whole affair I would disconnect the battery and pull the solenoid cover to gain access to the plunger assy. Pull the plunger assy out and check the stub shaft on the plunger. Is it broken? Missing? If broken or missing it means it is inside the housing and would explain why the bendix isn't engaging. If it all looks good, I'd check to make sure the spring that goes on the end of that stub assy isn't packed with hardened grease and would also check to make sure you have full plunger travel, which I will say that offhand it sounds like you do but there is nothing like visual confirmation of such. If it all looks good, e.g. stub shaft looks good, full travel, not packed up with grease, etc, then it sounds like you'd need a new starter or a repair on your old one. Best of luck and let me know what comes of it if you would.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner Thanks for the reply and I will let you know how I go.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner I thought it was going to be a bit beyond my mechanical knowledge so I took it to my mechanic, as I have put cams and bored it out to 1550 he suggested a 1.7kw starter motor as mine was knackerd. Thank you for your advise though.
@@2000tc88 Thanks for the update!!
same problem with my 2004 roadster..... show me where to look thank you so much
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Can't say for certain as they tend to move the relay around depending on the model and year but I believe on the Roadsters it is under a panel under the left side near the seat. But again, I'm not 100% sure.
I have a 68 Harley sporty and I get the click sound the motor sounds like it wants to turn over but dose not even when I use the kick start nothing would you know what I should look at the guy who had it before me replaced the ing switch and I think he my have damaged the kill start switch on the handlebars
Hi James! To be honest a '68 is an old bird and would be a completely different affair than what I talk about here. Unless modified you probably have a mag/points ignition system, a generator and a bunch of 'old school' items. You mentioned using the kick start and nothing happening. Are you saying that you cannot kick/crank the engine over even WITH the kick starter?
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner try to kick it and it dang near tore my leg off i figure it out my battery is from 2014and will not keep a charge to start the motor over but thanks for the info man this my firSt bike
Wow! 2014? I'd say that the battery has pretty much been used up!! *LOL*
My Sportster was cranking, but not turning over. Tried three times, same thing. Waiting a minute tried again, three times. On the last try, it was cranking, but that stopped and it was clicking very rapidly. Any suggestions?
Hmmm...well first thing I'm wondering is- how old is your battery?
Malcontent corner ; The battery is new, just got it today. The bike was doing the same thing with the old battery. That battery was about five years old, so I figured it needed replacing anyway. But, the bike is doing the same thing. I know if I take the bike to Harley, it’s going to be a huge bill, so I’m hoping to figure it out. Thanks!
Rapid clicking is coming from the starter🤦♂️
Hiya Coney! While I'm not a 'fan' of throwing parts at a problem in an effort to fix, I do applaud you on getting a new battery. At 5 years old I'd say the old one probably wasn't very long for the world. However you still have the problem...unfortunately....but this is what I would do if I were in your shoes. Sorry but it will be long winded:
If I had this problem on my, say, '95 Sportster I would take a look at the starter. It should look a lot like the one I use in my video with 3 leads on the starter/solenoid- 2 heavy duty lugs with nuts and a 3rd lighter duty wire. The heavy duty lug(s) are your main power lead(s) from the battery to one side of the solenoid. The other lug goes to the starter and typically has a rubber cover on it so it may be harder to see. Not an issue though as what I'm looking for is that 3rd lighter duty wire which will be the wire which energizes the coils in the solenoid which in turn pulls the plunger in and makes the starter turn over. That click click you hear is probably (without being there I can't say for sure 100%) the plunger bouncing in and out which means the magnetic field is breaking for some reason. If mine, I would pull that 3rd wire as it should be a m/f blade affair. Then and only after making sure the bike is not in gear, I would CAREFULLY and taking care to not short the wire on anything metal, take a jumper wire and go right from that connection on the solenoid directly to the positive of the battery. Doing such bypasses the run switch, start switch, starter relay, etc. If in gear, the bike will lurch which is why I make sure it is NOT in gear. If the starter cranks then you know the problem is in the circuit before the solenoid. If it still clicks, then you know the issue is with the solenoid/starter/battery. If memory serves me correctly I think the starter is rather buried on sportster but I think(?) it is accessible to some degree. Anyway, that is what I would do.
Can you show me where the the starter relay because i have the click of death and where can i purchase s new relay thats under my seat thanx bud
Sorry, Joe, but I can't quite figure out your question. If you are asking where the relay is all I can say is that it depends. On some softails they are under the seat however I've heard of the relays being mounted on the frame near the rear fender on other models. Unfortunately it varies from model to model. As for where you buy- I always recommend J&P cycle although you may be able to get away with bringing your old relay to an automotive store for a cross reference.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner oh man I couldn't make out his question either. Great video by the way. You're the best!
I like the video and I will clean everything. My problem is a little different. When I turn my key on and I hit the start button I get nothing no sound it's just dead. I have power lights are on everything seems good. I tried several time to start it and it wouldn't start or even click. I do have another starter relay I will replace it. I'm just wondering if it's the same problem you were talking about or something different. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Hi Randal! Thanks for watching! So you don't get even a click? That's not the problem I had. My solenoid would 'click" but not fully engage. On your case, do the lights dim down when you hit the starter? If so then I'd have to ask, just off hand, how old is your battery? If the lights do not dim then I'd say it sounds an issue with your solenoid circuit. If you have access to a voltmeter you can start taking voltage measurements from the solenoid plug at the starter and start working your way back. Start at the plug (disconnected but attached to the Red or + lead of the voltmeter other end on ground) press the start button and see if you have voltage at the plug. If not, then onto the relay, if not there then higher up the circuit you should go until you find the 12V feed for the solenoid circuit (see your service manual for the layout of your circuit). You could also find the location of the relay and check to see if you hear or feel a 'click' when pressing the start button.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner I really think it's the start switch I think that cause I did adjust brake lever and I must have push the switch over because I opened the switch an took a look at it and I then notice the spring was off so after I adjusted the lever and tried to start it was when the problem started. If must be fried and stuck together.
I'm experiencing the same similar type situation on my 05 Road King but what I think I have found to be the problem is the emergency shut off switch right next to the start switch, if I don't hold pressure on in the start position it'll die... Even while in operation
@@lowery386 - That would make sense as any bum connection in the start circuit can cause an issue. But with your problem, did it show itself by the bike not cranking at all? Or would the solenoid click or...?
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner at first it had a weak charge on the battery... Then after a nice 8 hour charge it would pop off strong.... Switch working as it should have been... But then it malfunctioned fully.... And i had to hold my thumb in run position with firm pressure to get it to stay correct
Mine's doing it right now...but it's not an Evo, it's a twin cam...& it did it in the driveway...still doesn't make it less dreadful...🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
I know, right? You should check out my video on a solenoid cover with a push button. Makes and excellent fail-safe.
2007 FLSTN Deluxe - loud starter clicking - replaced battery (was on its way out) - no fix - replaced starter relay - no fix - next step check connections to starter but a prick to do as the oil tank needs to be removed. Instead I may pull out the Jack plunger and dump electrical cleaner in the starter.
I don’t know if you still check the comments on this video but i recently put a chain drive on my 2000 fxdl and after reinstalling everything, including the starter the bike just makes one click not rapid clicking. I cleaned the solenoid contacts and still nothing. Battery has 12v
Hi Puff, I do check and am here to give my 2 cents of opinion...for whatever it may be worth. The 'issue' as described in my video isn't necessarily a rapid clicking of any sort but a 'click' with nothing happening starter wise. There are things you can do, at your own peril, to try to troubleshoot this. First off make sure the bike is in neutral! Then you can take a 12V positive line and apply it directly to the solenoid plug to see if the starter will engage or still just clicks. If it still just clicks, that is probably where the problem is (bad starter, solenoid, contacts etc) and you'll have to go from there. If it works like it should, then it is your circuit leading up to the solenoid (aka; switch, relay, corroded wire, bad ground, etc).
But.. what if I've done everything and it still doesn't work? Also I have a 2016 so no relay there to change. Please help 😭
2016 what? Harley model?
Is this click a single click or a repetitive click? I've got a 2018 Street 750, literally got it yesterday and it ran fine until today. I set off the alarm, had to enter the code for the immobiliser but the alram was going off for a couple minutes. It now just does a single click and I wondered if it was maybe a low battery that is causing the bike not to start and just click once? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
It is a single click that happens every time you press the start button. As for your issue, I would suspect possibly a battery given the age of it but that is really just an off the cuff answer.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner Thanks for responding. I neglected to mention it asks for the PIN every time. Guy at dealership reckons that the key fob battery is dead, going to get replacements today. I'll update if it fixes it.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner And battery age? It's not even 3 years old?
@@AwareWolfOnWheels Wasn't sure about the battery age which is why I said "off the cuff" Admittedly your bike sounds like is has some new wiz-bang anti theft security items going on so what I have here may not apply to your situation. Hopefully the new fob battery will resolve the situation for you.
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner The new fob battery solved the PIN issue but it appears that the bike battery is too low to start the bike, I think it's been sat too long and the dealership didn't charge it enough. Hopefully it'll get sorted today, everywhere was closed Monday for some stupid reason.
Why in your diagram u point to the relay isnt under the seat its far away from your seat in your diagram isnt that relays position near the batter under the seat?
Hi Joe. An electrical diagram is not the same as a physical layout. And no, the relay isn't always under the seat. Sometimes they are mounted on frames and fenders.
NOTE Contact kits with the solenoid core are dirt cheap (~20 bucks online) so I never clean and ALWAYS replace old ones! Your primary cover and starter gaskets that get ruined removing the starter cost more than the contacts.
Good contact inspection and replacement video. th-cam.com/video/qwokxzjlYcQ/w-d-xo.html
I agree on replacing any questionable relay because the contacts are tiny. Parts are cheap, tow bills are expensive. These Bosch style relays are used in the hundreds of millions so you can find them at auto stores if needed. Bring the old one to compare the schematic on the case or base of both relays. Some auto store relays won't have the mount tab. 30 or 40A heavy duty relays are preferable.
Every Denso starter on a Harley should have an aftermarket pushbutton solenoid end cover. The ~$20 versions work fine and I've installed many (all my bikes and many customer bikes).
This guy should have inspected his contacts with the cover off but the video shows a typical cover: th-cam.com/video/4O6jd69i4zc/w-d-xo.html
The pushbutton cover is ideal backup (or main start for a chopper) because it doesn't even require functional solenoid windings, let alone a start relay, starter button and the rest of the control circuit. When we had customers with bad windings (fix is replace the starter unless your local starter rebuilder orders you a matching part which is easy to find since these are on millions of cars including Toyota) who couldn't wait for a starter we drilled quarter inch holes in the stock cover and handed them a round shank screwdriver to manually push the noid core. MAKE SURE THE BIKE IS IN NEUTRAL FIRST!
I've found low battery voltage can also cause the click of dread. My battery dies after a year or two and produces the click of dread. It has nothing to do with the solenoid.
Yup. That's why I mentioned in the video about having a good battery.
What’s car is that starter off of make, model, and year?
This particular starter was standard on V8 equipped Mopar's from 1988 on but it can be used on their earlier cars as well that run the LA, B and RB engines.
and out to the garage i go. she is already on the lift and waiting for me.
Need to know how to get a starter out of the evolution 1994 motor
Sorry mate, no joy here for that but I believe you have to pull the primary cover for such.
Older motorcycles used to have a battery amp meter gauge in the instrument cluster to let the rider know the state of the battery & if was running out of juice. The motorcycle companies got rid of them to save money. The newer bikes have a digital readout on the instrument panel. In any case, you have to use your judgement & guess when to replace the battery with the correct CCAs for your motor. Best to replace the battery every 3 years or so, but to avoid this problem just invest in a lithium battery with a Battery Management System/ tester built in. Will last much longer.
You get what you pay for
In Aussie dollars a $200 battery lasts 4 years, a $500 battery lasted ( me ) 8 years...
I just buy $200 batteries nowadays...
just happened with my 2004 discovery 2 same brand of starter
Excellent job posting.. Shame that you never Used a HD Evo Starter to explain? Better Visual. 👍✌️
Trust me, Ian, if I had a HD starter to use, I would have used it. I couldn't justify the capital investment in a HD specific starter for demonstration purposes. However the layout of the starter I did use (Nippondenso) is pretty much the same with the exception of the stud(s) extension and the threaded solenoid connector.
first step in performing any disasembly of electrical components is to disconnect ground to the battery.
Sorry guys, it was just a misstep on my part that I didn't correct and cannot without deleting everything and re-posting. Given certain training with old school electronics (vacuum tubes) my first instinct is to pull the positive. With cars obviously negative is the way to go to minimize the chance of anything bad happening but pulling a positive won't hurt anything as long as one is careful. My main point is that battery IS disconnected. And no, James, I caution about short circuits but haven't created one myself. Much like cutting with a power saw- I can warn the viewer about making sure the power cord is out of the way when cutting but have never cut a power cord myself. ;-)
@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner Very good points, thank you! I always pull the positive myself, taking care to not short the wrench to ground. Been there, done that. I too grew up on vacuum tubes.
Old connections like old boxers get weaker by the day. Old boxer here still riding my old '74 Glide from '76. She gets loose under the headlight & needs some little squeezes to get happy tight again. My punches will however always be getting weaker. Sucks to get old.
buying you a beer ....thank you
Thank you. I'll gladly take a Old Style. ;-)
Outstanding! I fully agree, no"cheaping out", esp. tires&brakes. Speaking of tires, do you have a preference for a rain/moss tire? Its slicker than a witches tit here. My offroad bike had knobbies, but it was bad on ice/snow while on the pavement. Soft compound, right?
Honestly I don't. To this day I still run the OEM Dunlop's on my warpony.
Harleys are Heavy. They are a handful on wet roads to the point of 'whoa dangerous' .
New tyres help, soft-compounds also help ( but wear out quicker ! )
Good Luck - and use Caution.....
luckily mine happened in my shed
One thing you forgot to mention is please please check all of your grounds. My flhtcu has 2 grounds in the system. One is a decade ground for any electronics and other is for starter and such.
motorcycles used to be more simple to work on but now they're getting more complicated like cars, it's almost to the point where you can't fix anything by yourself anymore because for some damn reason they got a program something into something on a printed circuit board once you get something fixed on and that could cost you a couple hundred dollars just so they can program whatever it is