I've been eyeballing this kit for a few days, thought i might see if anyone did a vid on it first. Thanks for making this video. Those problems would have been a real kick in balls, if not for the heads up. Thanks
The lug nuts will squeeze the axle between the rotor and the wheel. you don't need to do this. But I do love the "I happen to be a doctor" moment in this video. I am installing this kit now and so far so good.
APrecision did trail gear ever resolve your issue? I ran into another issue last night. The knurling didn’t bite the spacer and now the mugs are spinning. I’m going to rack weld the stud to the rotor in the back. You can use the small thread lock washers that GM used from the factory to hold the rotors to the hubs to solve the other problem. I don’t have a lathe so I’m left with what I’ve got.
@@MrCarverBliss no, I talked to them twice on the phone and through a few emails and they eventually stopped responding as soon as I asked for a partial refund and offered them my solution. Welding is ok but its going to require you to get new lug nuts when you change the rotor next time. You could drill a couple holes through the spacer/rotor and the axle flange and bolt it all together.
I called trail gear today to speak about this issue. It was Lincoln I spoke to and he told me they should be installed at wheel bolt torque with the wheel installed. Not sure I like this idea so looking to see how much it will cost to have the wheel studs knurled by a machinist.... I have exhausted my time in searching for another wheel stud that would have the knurl in the right spot to press into the axle. Unless you want to change to a 1/2" thread and step away from 12x1.5 there is no solution I have found as of yet.
you could drill and tap the axle flange in a couple places and clearance drill the rotor for a bolt in those same two locations and use those two bolts to hold the rotor to the axle instead of the studs. That is how honda holds their front rotors on so it is done in industry. It just keeps everything from wobbling as you put your tire on. TG have machinists, they should fix this kit. They told me the same thing when I called them, it will pull tight under torque. No it doesn't because the knurl never reaches the material to be pulled into! That's why I dont usually buy trail gear stuff I stick to Marlin Crawler.
How do you plan on disassembling the axle hub to replace the bearings? I'm concerned it's not going to be easy with the rotor in the way, unless you use an extended gear puller
What is the part number of the rotors you used? I’m installing a kit now and I am using the suggested 1985 rotors and calipers but the hat on the rotor is about 1/2 in short of reaching the axle flange when I have the caliper on
i have this kit sitting here waiting to go on.....i'm not worried about the grinding... but their wheel stud issue. wonder if there are different studs i could order?
The other thing you could do is drill and tap the axle flange and thru drill the rotor and bolt the rotor directly to the axle flange. Honda's are made this way to keep the rotor from wobbling around when you loosen the lug nuts.
Nothing about the kit is dangerous the way it is, its just awkward trying to place a 60lb tire onto the hub with it moving around. I wasn't ok with that and thats why I modded it. The braking capability is way way better.
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I've been eyeballing this kit for a few days, thought i might see if anyone did a vid on it first. Thanks for making this video. Those problems would have been a real kick in balls, if not for the heads up. Thanks
The lug nuts will squeeze the axle between the rotor and the wheel. you don't need to do this.
But I do love the "I happen to be a doctor" moment in this video. I am installing this kit now and so far so good.
hefting a 80lb tire/rim onto a rotor wobbling all over sounds like a fun way to get a hernia or slip a disk in your back, but you do you.
APrecision did trail gear ever resolve your issue? I ran into another issue last night. The knurling didn’t bite the spacer and now the mugs are spinning. I’m going to rack weld the stud to the rotor in the back. You can use the small thread lock washers that GM used from the factory to hold the rotors to the hubs to solve the other problem. I don’t have a lathe so I’m left with what I’ve got.
@@MrCarverBliss no, I talked to them twice on the phone and through a few emails and they eventually stopped responding as soon as I asked for a partial refund and offered them my solution.
Welding is ok but its going to require you to get new lug nuts when you change the rotor next time.
You could drill a couple holes through the spacer/rotor and the axle flange and bolt it all together.
APrecision that’s a good ideal. I wish I had thought of it before I pressed the bearing on last night. I’m sure I’ll make it work.
I called trail gear today to speak about this issue. It was Lincoln I spoke to and he told me they should be installed at wheel bolt torque with the wheel installed. Not sure I like this idea so looking to see how much it will cost to have the wheel studs knurled by a machinist.... I have exhausted my time in searching for another wheel stud that would have the knurl in the right spot to press into the axle.
Unless you want to change to a 1/2" thread and step away from 12x1.5 there is no solution I have found as of yet.
you could drill and tap the axle flange in a couple places and clearance drill the rotor for a bolt in those same two locations and use those two bolts to hold the rotor to the axle instead of the studs. That is how honda holds their front rotors on so it is done in industry. It just keeps everything from wobbling as you put your tire on. TG have machinists, they should fix this kit. They told me the same thing when I called them, it will pull tight under torque. No it doesn't because the knurl never reaches the material to be pulled into! That's why I dont usually buy trail gear stuff I stick to Marlin Crawler.
How do you plan on disassembling the axle hub to replace the bearings? I'm concerned it's not going to be easy with the rotor in the way, unless you use an extended gear puller
you press out the lug studs and the rotor is off.
What is the part number of the rotors you used? I’m installing a kit now and I am using the suggested 1985 rotors and calipers but the hat on the rotor is about 1/2 in short of reaching the axle flange when I have the caliper on
not sure, I think I ordered them from low range offroad
i have this kit sitting here waiting to go on.....i'm not worried about the grinding... but their wheel stud issue. wonder if there are different studs i could order?
The other thing you could do is drill and tap the axle flange and thru drill the rotor and bolt the rotor directly to the axle flange. Honda's are made this way to keep the rotor from wobbling around when you loosen the lug nuts.
Nothing about the kit is dangerous the way it is, its just awkward trying to place a 60lb tire onto the hub with it moving around. I wasn't ok with that and thats why I modded it. The braking capability is way way better.
Nice video, are those solid axle rotors?
yeah they are front calipers and rotors off a 85 toyota mini truck solid front axle assembly.
I have installed this on my 92 toyota pick up and did not have this issue with it.
good, maybe they fixed it. When I bought this kit it was brand new to the market.
@aprecision4013 they didn't fix it. I have this kit on the work bench and I don't see the lug studs catching the axle shaft.
Waist of time dude
this disk brake swap or fixing their kit?