Just completed this repair on 2/28/24 on my 2013 fiat 500c pop, got quoted $1250 by a mechanic, but this vid motivated me to learn a new skill and give it a shot fixing it myself, $160 and a few very patient hours later and my headlights are working good as new again (they would not turn on before the repair). Thank you so much for making this video and sharing your knowledge with the people. We appreciate you
Thank you so much for the professionalism in this repair, there are several videos out there of DIY repairs that are much less... let's say, delicate with their fixes. Putting the list of things you need at the beginning is also a huge help. Only thing I might consider doing differently is to potentially try and find some sockets for the relays or potentially even find some more durable relays that are still compatible. Either way, this is an excellent video and I hope it becomes the de facto method of solving this.
Just want to thank you for this video. I haven’t soldered for 40 years, but I was able to get this done. Took a long time and a lot of patience, but I did it, and the car runs perfectly. Those boards are resilient - my work is literally a hot mess. If you’re ever in Dallas, give a me a shout. I’ll buy you a Vanilla Coke or ten.
I wish this had been out 6 months ago when I went looking for a solution. I did the add a DPST switch in-line with the fuses "solution"... Time to order some relays and get to work! Thanks for the great video!
Two mistakes I made: 1. When prying the 2x20 headers off the bards I as a bit ruff, and almost cut traces on the CPU board. They have some traces running on the edge of the board. ! Be careful ! 2. When re-seating the BCM the forward facing mounted cable harnesses are tough to tell if they are seated. I didn't get one seated correctly the first time. My car didn't start. After a few choice words & a few "What did I just do..." I check the Harnesses again and found one was not seated correctly.
Hello there, good video. Thanks for taking the time to edit and upload it. A random question though if I may - would you happen to know which relays control the wiper speeds? I'm currently trying to resolve an ongoing issue with my wife's car, after a lot of research and effort I've ruled out all other options and resigned myself to the fact that it's the bcm. Trying to ascertain relay types and ideally locations before opening the unit. Would like to avoid going in relatively blind. Excellent tip on the headers by the way!
The relay plug-over board is pretty straight forward to trace with DMM. Starting a F43 and then tracing back to the relays should be pretty straight forward.
Thanks for the video, this helped immensely! For my relay removal, I just un-delicately took some pliers and twisted the relays off, which resulted in just the legs being in the solder pads. Then, I used some cheap side-cutters and grabbed the legs while heating the other side and took them out one at a time. It was still a pain, but not nearly as much as it looked like it was in the video! Then, I just set the new relay on the pad for the old and just heated up the existing solder one pad at a time and basically rocked the new one in bits at a time and finished it off with some fresh solder. On the note of side-cutters, you were absolutely right, good ones were needed. My cheap set wasn't able to get the job done and I needed to buy a nicer set to actually get it cut down close enough that I could get the two boards separated. I used the headers you recommended, got a 5-pack of the same relays off eBay. My pinecil soldering iron was able to get the job done (using a 100W brick) with the method described above. The worst part was getting the BCM out (and then back into) the car in the cold and finding I couldn't get the two boards apart with the cutters I had!
After a bit of digging (not obvious), TE product name V23086-C1021-A502, TE part numbers for these 8-1416000-7 (Obsolete per Mouser with Incorrect Data Sheet). The newer TE Part number: 1-1414760-0 Available at Digikey and Mouser. I was not able to find what the Trailing -EV-BLBOX mean.
Note: The Original part was not a (SPDT)"1 form C" as stated on the Mouser page. It is a SPST (SPST)"1 form A". I found this datasheet in the 2012 product guide, search for 1308035-2-relay-products-automotive-catalog.pdf.
I have a 2013 Fiat 500 and the liftgate will not unlatch by using the switch on the boot door. I was able to find some wires from the body to door that were broken. I soldered them back together and tested all wires for continuity. But still the actuator won’t unlock. I would suspect from the broken wires, maybe they caused a short to the BCM? Am I on the right track with this problem? Have you experienced this with your Fiat?
The Relay closest to the Fuse panel is the only one that needs to be replacement. Pin 4 of this Relay ties to (F12 & F13) on there inner pins. The outer pins of F12 & F13 go to the wiring harness out to the Headlights. The other Relay is for the Airbag & ties to F50.
The Relay Closest to the Fuse: Pin 4 ties to the two fuses, Pin 5 ties to +12V. The 12V comes in on the header connected via the large awg Red Wire. These are the nets that drive the amperage to the head lights.
Relay Pins 2 & 1 are the Coil pins. The top side has a component labeled the NCV1413BDG chip near a 2x20 header. This is a Darlington Transistor Array chip that allows the CPU +5V signals on the main board to control the relays on the plug-over relay board. Relay Pin 2 is tied to Array pin 13 and is a signal pin. Relay pin 1 is tied to Array pin 9; this is inversion common voltage point. This Array pin 9 is tied to many other relays on the plug-over board.
I have a junkyard-pick BCM with a good relay. Wondering if, and thinking that, all the car-specific logic is on the lower board? Could I pull the upper board with the relays off the donor BCM and install it with those pin headers to the lower logic board on my car's original BCM? To bypass the de-solder step... at least for however long the old replacement relay works?
For the record, this works. I swapped in the entire good board using the pin headers in this video and everything is resolved. Car starts, no codes or security messages, and my headlights work again woot! This was a great tutorial!
My Fiat's issue manifested as "lights stuck on" for a while(relay fused closed). Eventually the relay got unfused & stayed open, and the head lights would not come on at all.
Just completed this repair on 2/28/24 on my 2013 fiat 500c pop, got quoted $1250 by a mechanic, but this vid motivated me to learn a new skill and give it a shot fixing it myself, $160 and a few very patient hours later and my headlights are working good as new again (they would not turn on before the repair). Thank you so much for making this video and sharing your knowledge with the people. We appreciate you
How do I get these parts?
Thank you so much for the professionalism in this repair, there are several videos out there of DIY repairs that are much less... let's say, delicate with their fixes. Putting the list of things you need at the beginning is also a huge help. Only thing I might consider doing differently is to potentially try and find some sockets for the relays or potentially even find some more durable relays that are still compatible. Either way, this is an excellent video and I hope it becomes the de facto method of solving this.
Just want to thank you for this video. I haven’t soldered for 40 years, but I was able to get this done. Took a long time and a lot of patience, but I did it, and the car runs perfectly. Those boards are resilient - my work is literally a hot mess. If you’re ever in Dallas, give a me a shout. I’ll buy you a Vanilla Coke or ten.
The soldering tips were super helpful, dude! I've been doing a lot of electronics projects over the last few years and soldering is still frustrating.
This has got to be the best tutorial on this issue.
I wish this had been out 6 months ago when I went looking for a solution. I did the add a DPST switch in-line with the fuses "solution"... Time to order some relays and get to work! Thanks for the great video!
Just Updated my Fiat 500, Worked perfectly! Thank you so much!
Two mistakes I made: 1. When prying the 2x20 headers off the bards I as a bit ruff, and almost cut traces on the CPU board. They have some traces running on the edge of the board. ! Be careful ! 2. When re-seating the BCM the forward facing mounted cable harnesses are tough to tell if they are seated. I didn't get one seated correctly the first time. My car didn't start. After a few choice words & a few "What did I just do..." I check the Harnesses again and found one was not seated correctly.
Very well done tutorial! Thanks man, you saved me a lot of money! Great job!
Hello there, good video. Thanks for taking the time to edit and upload it. A random question though if I may - would you happen to know which relays control the wiper speeds? I'm currently trying to resolve an ongoing issue with my wife's car, after a lot of research and effort I've ruled out all other options and resigned myself to the fact that it's the bcm. Trying to ascertain relay types and ideally locations before opening the unit. Would like to avoid going in relatively blind. Excellent tip on the headers by the way!
The relay plug-over board is pretty straight forward to trace with DMM. Starting a F43 and then tracing back to the relays should be pretty straight forward.
Thanks for the video, this helped immensely!
For my relay removal, I just un-delicately took some pliers and twisted the relays off, which resulted in just the legs being in the solder pads.
Then, I used some cheap side-cutters and grabbed the legs while heating the other side and took them out one at a time. It was still a pain, but not nearly as much as it looked like it was in the video! Then, I just set the new relay on the pad for the old and just heated up the existing solder one pad at a time and basically rocked the new one in bits at a time and finished it off with some fresh solder.
On the note of side-cutters, you were absolutely right, good ones were needed. My cheap set wasn't able to get the job done and I needed to buy a nicer set to actually get it cut down close enough that I could get the two boards separated.
I used the headers you recommended, got a 5-pack of the same relays off eBay. My pinecil soldering iron was able to get the job done (using a 100W brick) with the method described above.
The worst part was getting the BCM out (and then back into) the car in the cold and finding I couldn't get the two boards apart with the cutters I had!
After a bit of digging (not obvious), TE product name V23086-C1021-A502, TE part numbers for these 8-1416000-7 (Obsolete per Mouser with Incorrect Data Sheet). The newer TE Part number: 1-1414760-0 Available at Digikey and Mouser. I was not able to find what the Trailing -EV-BLBOX mean.
Note: The Original part was not a (SPDT)"1 form C" as stated on the Mouser page. It is a SPST (SPST)"1 form A". I found this datasheet in the 2012 product guide, search for 1308035-2-relay-products-automotive-catalog.pdf.
I have a 2013 Fiat 500 and the liftgate will not unlatch by using the switch on the boot door. I was able to find some wires from the body to door that were broken. I soldered them back together and tested all wires for continuity. But still the actuator won’t unlock. I would suspect from the broken wires, maybe they caused a short to the BCM? Am I on the right track with this problem? Have you experienced this with your Fiat?
Great Video, thank you 😊
I have a problem with the LH running light. It turns off, but should turn to 5W. Is this also controlled via the relays?
Hello Phillips,
Were you able to put a relay kit together? Need it for two vehicles, my 2012 500 and 2012 Abarth.
Thanks
The Relay closest to the Fuse panel is the only one that needs to be replacement. Pin 4 of this Relay ties to (F12 & F13) on there inner pins. The outer pins of F12 & F13 go to the wiring harness out to the Headlights. The other Relay is for the Airbag & ties to F50.
The Relay Closest to the Fuse: Pin 4 ties to the two fuses, Pin 5 ties to +12V. The 12V comes in on the header connected via the large awg Red Wire. These are the nets that drive the amperage to the head lights.
Relay Pins 2 & 1 are the Coil pins. The top side has a component labeled the NCV1413BDG chip near a 2x20 header. This is a Darlington Transistor Array chip that allows the CPU +5V signals on the main board to control the relays on the plug-over relay board. Relay Pin 2 is tied to Array pin 13 and is a signal pin. Relay pin 1 is tied to Array pin 9; this is inversion common voltage point. This Array pin 9 is tied to many other relays on the plug-over board.
I have a junkyard-pick BCM with a good relay. Wondering if, and thinking that, all the car-specific logic is on the lower board? Could I pull the upper board with the relays off the donor BCM and install it with those pin headers to the lower logic board on my car's original BCM? To bypass the de-solder step... at least for however long the old replacement relay works?
For the record, this works. I swapped in the entire good board using the pin headers in this video and everything is resolved. Car starts, no codes or security messages, and my headlights work again woot! This was a great tutorial!
My Fiat's issue manifested as "lights stuck on" for a while(relay fused closed). Eventually the relay got unfused & stayed open, and the head lights would not come on at all.
Thank you for this help. Much appreciated
Thanks!!
Need to find these parts
What happened to the 53 Chevy restoration?
Esse problema cronico do fiat 500 ele para de funcionar o veículo
Or maybe break the relay and push the pins throug.