I've run R & P for three oil changes so far. Examining the piston tops, timing chain, and cam phaser with a bore scope shows an ongoing improvement and an elimination of valve train noise on cold start. I'm pretty optimistic.
@TheJorgSacul 41,000 but they weren't easy miles. My knee is feeling a hell of a lot better already. I can even walk up stairs like a normal person now instead of 1 at a time (still hurts walking down the stairs, though).
Did my first Valvoline- Restore & Protect oil change [ 2202 miles in 45 days ] on a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3l. V8 engine w/243825 miles. Cut open Last filter change [Ac/delco PF61e] was normal / alittle dirty [ light.dark amble color] using Pennzoil ultra platinum. But NOW after cutting open to inspect the filter paper it was Dirty Brown and1/16inch blackness deep in the filter paper folds I have too Say ! it Worked as Advertised. Plus it no longer has that Lifter motor noise Note the filter was not All clogged up. BUT in need of a Change and another VSP oil treatment . Family owned truck always maintained doesnt burn or leak Oil. Very Very Happy.
I’m on my 2nd OCI with Valvoline Restore and Protect. Had an oil analysis done by SpeedDiagnostix. Great results on my 08 Honda Accord with 350,000 miles. 1.8 ppm per 1000 mile wear metals which is fantastic results. Analysis done on 5,000 mile run on the oil. Gives me no reason to switch to any other oil. Love the Restore and protect!!
Thanks for the info. I have been doing research on it. I am going to use it on my 98 Silverado with 240K miles on it. I will buy extra filters and change them during my first two changes. It's old and the filters will most likely catch a lot of carbon.
Quick update… prior to switching to R&P back at the 340,000 mile mark I was burning 1.5’ish quarts per 5,000 miles. 1st run on R&P reduced oil consumption down to just shy of 1 qt in 5,000 miles. I now have 3,000 miles on 2nd run of R&P. Only used 1/8 of a quart (small tick on the dipstick). On pace for about 1/4 qt on 5,000 miles. Couldn’t be happier using this oil.
Can't wait for the 2500k filter cut, and just found out that you need to get oil temp kind of high and to drive it hard at times in order for the oil to actually do it's job.
You won't be sorry! I changed from using 0w20 synthetic on my 2010 Lexus RX450h to 5w30 Valvoline Restore and Protect and it's never run smoother or better -- the combo of the slightly thicker oil and the Valvoline RP chemistry has really smoothed things out.
Jimmy you don’t have to worry about the oil overwhelming the filter if you change the oil every 5k. If you watch the motor oil geek episode he did he actually went to the valvoline plant and they explained that they took that into account when they designed the new oil formula. The fact that you use OEM quality filters you don’t have to worry about changing them between changes. Been using this stuff since it came out in my Pontiac g6 with 247 thousand miles. No problems yet. Great stuff! 🎉
You can believe the marketing. Or you can believe the many examples of filters being near clogged over the first 1-2 k miles using valvoline r&p. I personally saw this happen in 1k. Then ran walmart oil high mileage full synthetic advanced and the filter looked like new in the same amount of miles. This stuff cleans, and will clog your stuff if you have a high mileage less than clean engine. Vvt issues, oil passages, pickup tubes. All at risk using this oil.
@@TonicofSonic most synthetic oil and high Quality filters will not break down for at least 20,000 miles - the biggest problem is your worrying & over-obsessiveness ..... I am a Mercedes Mechanic.
@@Twit.Tw00 Amazing how you managed to respond with a totally unrelated topic to cleaning. Best part is, everyone knows factory oil change intervals are a scam to ruin good engines. EVERYONE. The oil may not break down but it surely is contaminated just the same regardless of oil life status. Take your absolutely terrible stealership advice and save it for the fools buying Mercedes you are trained to scam. Old rich females probably love it when you tell them they get to neglect basic maintenance for 20k.
I went on 3k mile road trip with this oil. Oil still looks clean. Oil levels still looks ok too. 352k miles on car today. Check engine light went out after being on over a year. Was told cat was bad cost too much to replace on old car.
I don't see this fixing a cat. It will stop car from burning oil which will prevent the cat from being clogged, but what's done is done. You might be able to use another product to clean the cat but i don't think this would help in that area
Just started my first round with this oil. I changed it right before a 1300 mile round trip vacation. I checked my oil as soon as I got home and it’s still pretty clean. It darkened, but not as much as expected. I’ve always used full synthetic, but my engine seems to really love this oil. I had a tiny ticking noise that’s now gone. And it just seems to run smoother in general. Paired with a Mobil 1 filter for now. I plan on changing oil at 3000 miles, after the 4th change I’ll bump it up to 5k and probably go back to OEM filters. time will tell!
I hope it can fix my dads rx350 she got a minimal lifter noise like Toyota noise they say but im skeptical bcause when i add a quart of 5w20 to it its gone so i knew it was relative to lifter high rpm abuse from previous owner.
@@OtisFlint Some OEMs also say not to change oil very often. I saw a study that showed how long it took to get oil to the upper part of the engine when a filter was dry and it was not good.
Just bought a 2014 Tacoma TRD Sport with 109K. Think I’ll run this oil in this truck. Thanks for the recommendation Jimmy! It’s nice where you live that you don’t have to worry about the frames on these vehicles. First thing I did was take it to Toyota and get a frame inspection and stress test. Tacoma is from upstate NY, I live in NE Ohio. Just Fluid Filmed!👍
One thing that I like to do during an oil change is that I place the oil fill cap where the hood latches. That way, I can't close the hood if I forget to put the cap back.
I'm glad that you stated you will be changing the oil filter at 2500 miles. I think you may want to perform this a little sooner, maybe at the 2000 mark, because you'll be replacing it at 3k miles anyway. The reason I say it is important is because there are a few videos of people using this Valvoline R&P and since the engines were grossly neglected and had a ton of sludge in the CC, the filters were being clogged. I noticed you did not use, or show us that you used a borescope before you changed the oil, so we don't know the condition of the internal portion of the engine. I used this in my 2010 Sierra, 5.3L a few months ago, and I am coming up to the 3k mark on my first round. As you noted, this is an ongoing process, and the * on the bottle states that it can take up to 3 oil changes before you can see results. Anyway, I have been watching my oil on the dipstick as well as draining a small amount every 800 miles to see the condition of the oil in the pan. So far it is dark, and there is a little bit of gunk in there. Now obviously the only time I typically look at the oil is when I fully drain it, and so far the oil doesn't seem to be extremely full of gunk/debris. I have also been changing the oil at 3k, so I am pretty sure the CC is relatively clean, considering I bought it a few years ago with somewhere around 60k mi, and it has just over 100k now. I am not sure how well the first owner changed the oil, but I can say that the exterior of the truck was neglected a bit and that it was a west Texas truck, used on a cattle ranch by an older gentleman, and that the second owner that I bought it from only had it for about 8 months before she sold it to me, and she only drove it 2k miles, and only changed the oil when she bought it. Regardless, as stated by a few other YT videos, be sure to keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge so that if the filter were to get clogged or dirty prematurely, you can be sure to catch it before harm has begun. Next time I change my oil, I will use my borescope to explore as much as I can. I only wish I had thought about making an initial video before I changed the oil over to R&P.
It would be interesting to see Project Farm do a lubricity test on this oil and compare it to other full synthetic oils. Do the additives that clean, impact it's effectiveness at preventing wear? Only one way to know for sure...
@@johndeere1951a I've seen it. I've also purchased this oil... however getting a non-interested party like Project Farm to independently test it is very interesting. Lake has close ties to Valvoline.
@darkerbinding6933 should be about the same as Valvoline Advanced that he tested. They didn't change much on the protect side of things. Just the restore cleaning part is different.
First time using 0-20w Valvoline R&P on my 2001 Ford F150 4.2 w/177k miles. Noticed an increase of 17 in/Hg of vacuum to 18 in/Hg at idle on my vacuum gauge, which implies a slightly higher compression in cylinders(150psi in all cylinders from last check). This might have been coincidental but it looks like a winner for me.
I just did my first R&P oil change after 4,000 miles on my 2013 Subaru Crosstrek w/ 215,000 miles on it. This car has been babied and I have been OCD with maintenance. The oil was a little darker than I thought it would be after 4,000 miles. Car seems to be running a little quieter. I’m going to track my little consumption problem better this go round. I’m happy with the oil so far.
I like to change the drain plug gasket when I change my oil. I do have a rubber recessed in my GM. Toyota uses a crush washer and I believe they recommend replacing it.
Just a friendly tip. Change your oil filter every 1000 miles on this first use of the oil. Many people have reported clogged oil filters when first swapping to this oil in a high mileage vehicle.
Yeah, thats what I heard from other videos. This oil has to have very high detergents in them, no other way to remove all these deposits that Valvoline claims this oil does.
@@gregorymalchuk272 The consumption is about 3/4 qt every 1300 miles or so. The engine is making a clacking noise on and off at idle speed that comes and goes. It's got about 5000 miles on it so I am going to do like the 3rd oil change on it. Looking into the oil fill cap I don't see the camshaft getting any cleaner than day 1. It does have a decent amount of sludge on it. Probably gonna change it tomorrow morning. Haven't cut open the oil filter yet so may try that tomorrow. 108387 miles on it currently.
Thank you Jimmy for this information. Due to a ton of reasons I have not changed the oil in my 06 Chevy Suburban as often as I would have preferred so I appreciate the information on this oil and looking forward to seeing videos on your results from using it.
I've seen the recommendations and I'm trying it now on my '89 Jeep. Engine (140K on re-man) is running fine, so now is a good time to try the switch. Next will by my wife's 88 Mercedes.
You may want do do a filter swap on it after running the new oil for 500 miles just to see whats being cleaned out and avoid and filter blockage. A similar video with an old v6 mustang sas done w similar mileage. Owner swapped out the filter after on 300 miles and cracked open the filter he pulled off. The pleats were covered in carbon deposits.
I think it's a good idea after you pour half the oil out, to put the cap back on and shake the container vigorously to release the additives that have settled on the bottom. 👍
Been meaning to see if that Video was out yet (or when to expect an Updated status)... Ran/Running VRP in two vehicles so far. Both seem to "like" VRP just fine and the Filters/Oil seem to be working well (with the Oil remaining largely Golden/Clear even at 3000 miles... The Filter though? I took Video of my GMC Terrain's 2.4L Ecotec 's Filter Exchange and the Fram Ultra XG9018 Filter was a Jet Black instead of its Original White Pleats (Which I could still make visible at 811 miles with a gentle scraping/pressing of the Pleats.) By the time of 3008 miles the Pleats could be lightened a bit, but, best case, the media was no longer white, looking more yellow/brown like a typical filter... Even then it was still a very "used" look... FRAM claims it is rated for 20,000 miles but I'm not planning to ever run even to the GM OLM of 7500 miles/12 months
Excellent video Jimmy :) I changed my vehicle engine oil every 5. 000 kms or 3 months and do engine oil first then oil filter then engine oil filter to then do.drain plug second round too on 30 minutes drain ! When all put together and changed Air Filter, PCV Valve check up and fuel filters too! Plus sparkplugs and wires high Suppression set ! Do that Spring Season and Fall Seasons each year to this way!
Walmart by me does not carry it yet and no way I'm paying 35 bucks a jug at the auto parts chains stores. I use full synthetic all time so I think my engines are pretty clean to begin with.
Nice that you commented/confirmed that the Oil Filter Gasket came along with the old filter. I have Cartridge Filters on my current vehicles so it would be odd to accidentally "double gasket" my New Filter. But for the random DIY Oil Changers visiting out there. Make sure your old Oil Filter's Gasket (and any more that might have been left on by previous Oil Changers/Shops) is removed and the Filter/Engine mounting surface is otherwise clean... No on wants a leak.
I have ~1,200 miles on my first run. In a Prius V with the dreaded low tension rings that were a problem. It doesn’t have oil consumption at 125K but I figured why not, maybe this stuff will help keep it that way. Can’t wait until about a year out to see what people will have experienced with rigs that consume lots of oil.
@ I didn’t yet have oil consumption, but my model year falls under a TSB(‘10-‘14) for oil consumption. So I figured why not start running VR&P in order to try and keep it from getting to that point. I now have ~3K using it. No oil consumption still, but before I switched I was noticing a smell of fuel in the oil. I could really smell it in the am when I’d walk into the garage before work. Can say now that, after 3K, I no longer smell fuel in the oil. I changed the first VR&P fill out at ~2.5K. This was not something I was expecting remedy on. Can also say, and I’ve seen a lot of comments to this extent, that the engine immediately ran more quiet/smooth on the very first start up with VR&P. Pretty sure I’ll be using this engine oil for the rest of the vehicle’s service life.
Jimmy, Change your oil filter at 500 miles. Just to make sure your oil filter isn’t getting overwhelmed. 2500 might be a little too long for your first filter in the restore oil change.. Good luck with your new toy… how are you liking Tennessee?
Chevy Citation ? My mom would drive that car across the California Palm Springs desert to Yuma, AZ, no air conditioning, in the middle of July. She would do it at 8 am. Later I found out the Citation was supposed to be problematic & unreliable. LOL
Jimmy, according to Valvoline, the gunk it removes from the engine stays suspended in microscopic particles in the Restore and Protect oil and does not clog or overwhelm the filter. So it will be interesting. Seeing what you find when you remove the oil filter at 2500 miles.
As a fellow 2UZ owner in my sequoia also with high miles (240k), please keep us updated especially on that oil filter when the time comes. I am considering trying this oil, but I am to concerned about possibly revealing an oil leak. The valve covers and cam/crank seals dont scare me, but while Ive never heard of one going, I worry about the rear main seal since that is quite difficult in comparison. Anyway good luck and keep us posted.
I use K&N oil and air filters on my 2000 Camry LE 2.2L. I change the oil every 3000 miles. As for oil I use Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Synthetic Oil 5w - 30. I've used Pennzoil for many years with no problem. But again I change the oil every 3000 miles like clock works.
If you change your own oil, it's something like $30 and 30 minutes of your time. That's half a tank of gas in my truck. Changing oil after 3000 miles isn't a waste of money or time.
@@major__kong It's a complete waste of time and money. A good oil and filter on a no performance engine in a daily driver application doesn't need changing until at least 7500 miles, at the soonest. Anything sooner is pointless.
Okay I understand what all of you are saying. There's 185,000 miles on the Camry. A mechanic I talk to said to change the oil every 3000 miles because of the age of the engine. I only buy the best for the Camry. Or at least to me it's the best. I buy the K&N oil filters in bulk. I have thought of that from time to time am I wasting money by changing the oil so often. Maybe. But I don't want to end up damaging the engine either.
Just don't forget that you want to change your oil sooner rather than later when you switch to a different brand oil vs. what the vehicle normally ran. You never get all the old oil out during a change and the little bit of old oil will not play nice with the new Valvoline oil. Lake Speed Jr. (AKA The Motor Oil Geek) has an excellent video about this phenomenon.
For the second time I’m writing this comment , Don’t forget to replace the VVT filters both sides , it’s very important , 100% you have the original ones in your engine
@@1RoadGarageyep it’s crucial after you’re done using this kind of cleaning oil, same like after using products like seafoam. Sludge might accumulate in the vvt filter, its a good practice to get it open and checked.
@@yournightmare9999 why would u want to replace it? as i said, its a good practice to have it checked after many years and miles and especially after cleaning sludge and stuff. And you can clean the filter too with maf sensor or tb cleaner. Mostly recommended after an engine flush.
This is a big improvement for cars that may have been neglected or that call for higher intervals. Its also likely a really great oil to start using for even a newer car to keep buildup from ever happening in the first place
Professional tests show high count of bleed thru of particals. No glue on outer pleats may be a problem. Mine were the same. Oil showed micro alum. In sun. Purolator 0ne are my fav now.
Just switched on my 150,000 mile Hyundai Santa Fe, then drove over 300 miles, needing to climb 7,700 foot mountains, twice. I am not worried about what it might cut loose, because my oil filter sits on top of the engine and I can take it out and look at it, or even change it, without even changing the oil.
Running my 2nd fill or R&P on my Powerboost F-150. The 1st oil run was R&P, but for only 1K miles to flush the remaining Pennz Ultra P out with the 2nd that's going to run ~ as determined by a 2500 mi lab test I am going to run to see where values are at, ie, will get a better picture of oil additive pack quality, metal wear and contaminate load to make a determination on going up to a max of 5K miles if warranted.
Tip I been changing oil and oil filters for years take the oil filter off first before you drain the oil because if you accidentally drop it you don't drop it into a pan full of dirty engine oil especially if it is filled to the top what a mess 😭
Ran R and P for 500 miles in our 01 Ford V10. Noticed blue smoke at startup and valve train noise engine has always been well maintained going back to Penzoil ultra platinum. I guess it doesn't work for everybody.
check your oil and you might have to change your oil and filter before 5,000 miles. This does dissolve some sludge faster and some people reported it clogged their oil filter.
You should mention the name of the youtubers channel who inspired you, it's nice to help others and your video was inspired by them as well it sounds like
I've been using Mobile 1 Synthetic on my Kia Sedona with 90K. I used the Valvoline R&P and started to see mileage improvement. After the second oil change, the mileage improved by 1-2 MPG. So, I don't know what to say. If it's coincidental, I wonder why Mobile 1 could not do it.
Never ever filled the oil filter before with oil, guess thats a good idea. But most oil filters are setting side ways on vehicles. Kinda hard to fill them without getting your face covered in oil.
If your engine is really gunky then this could cause a problem by plugging your oil filter. I would use this stuff sparingly, mixing it with your regular oil to start. If your car takes 4 liters then 3 liters of regular mixed with 1 liter of Valvoline. For some reason it's not available in Canada.
I wouldn't hesitate to go to 5w30 if 5w20 was the spec recommended. If it calls for 0w16 I would not go to 5w30. You have to make sure you don't have flow issues as the engine tolerances and passages are tight. You want to make sure your flow rate is good especially on cold start where most of your wear occurs at.
Despite all the hype, what they don't tell you is that your local repair shops don't really carry it and won't back it up. I had to buy my own... to get my local shop to put it in, and they wouldn't back it. On the receipt, they put "no warranty" (meaning they wouldn't back it). If you have a vehicle with warranty coverage that requires documentation of regular oil changes...and you want to use this oil, it will be a hassle finding shops that carry it. I'm in St. Louis and I couldn't find any shop that carries this oil.
4:18 Do Not “dry start” your engine!! Pre-Fill oil filter before installing to prevent “ZERO” oil pressure on 1st. Startup! I give a quick “blip” to the starter (short crank only) 3-4 times to ensure good oil pressure before full start. Otherwise, you might still see the low oil pressure light, as there is AIR in the lines. This is just simple “common sense”! However, Lake Speed, Jr. @the Motor Oil Geek has also performed scientific testing proving the need to pre-fill the oil filter. FYI: I am definitely hooked on the Valvoline R&P. I switched from Pennzoil Ultra, and Mobil 1… I can actually tell my cars (turbo & NA) are running smother, quieter, with lower friction (more power)! FYI: New Subaru Turbo @14k mi. ... Just changed 1st. R&P after 3k mi. ... oil didn't look dirty, but was plenty dirty! The 1st. fill ran quite smooth & quiet, but now the 2nd. fill is quieter than ever!
@@hotrodray6802 True, but delay of a “dry” filter adds additional time without oil pressure & lubrication. I also will “blip” the starter 3 times before allowing full start ignition.
I'd like to try it, but 5w30 is a bit light for a couple of my engines, which is where I most wanted to use it, unfortunately. Also, I wish I could change my oil in 4 minutes and 20 seconds, like you, lol
I went from a quart of Mobil1 Extra Milage oil after 2500k to only going through a quart after 8500k when making the switch to Amsoil. I checked lifters and they looked liked brand new.
First, the fuel must be of good quality and add additives to the fuel. Second, change the oil before the deadline, as per the manual. For example: if you change it every 10,000 km (6,250 miles), you change it halfway through the distance traveled, and it is also valid for months. It is good to always warm up the engine before moving it, this way it works at the ideal temperature and lubricant efficiency. Doing this prevents oil sludge.
Using it now in my car, I hear that if your car has a lot of miles and sludge be prepared to change the filter at 2,500 if you do 5,000 mile oil change. 🤔.
Sounds like this oil has a lot of detergent added to it. It may do some cleaning but all these cleaning on older engines is it really good? I would think some carbon deposits are good because it plugs some oil leaking areas.
I’m only worried about leaks afterwards. Cleaning agents mostly affects the seals, specially you are going to leave it there all the time with the oil.
I've run R & P for three oil changes so far. Examining the piston tops, timing chain, and cam phaser with a bore scope shows an ongoing improvement and an elimination of valve train noise on cold start. I'm pretty optimistic.
Thanks for sharing!
How many miles did you run it each oil change ?
@@GeneG-wk2mz 3,000 miles +/- 100 miles with Mobil 1 filters.
@@1RoadGarage Have you replaced the drain plug with a magnetic drain plug?
If not, highly recommend.
@@BakerStudiosIndy thank you for your reply
Drank my first 8 oz. of R&P tonight, will see if my knee pain improves over the next month or so.
Remember, it says up to four oil changes, so you'll have to drink it three more times.
@@josh47807 Every 25k steps!
How many miles are on you?
@TheJorgSacul 41,000 but they weren't easy miles. My knee is feeling a hell of a lot better already. I can even walk up stairs like a normal person now instead of 1 at a time (still hurts walking down the stairs, though).
Change your filter too.?
Did my first Valvoline- Restore & Protect oil change [ 2202 miles in 45 days ] on a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3l. V8 engine w/243825 miles. Cut open Last filter change [Ac/delco PF61e] was normal / alittle dirty [ light.dark amble color] using Pennzoil ultra platinum.
But NOW after cutting open to inspect the filter paper it was Dirty Brown and1/16inch blackness deep in the filter paper folds I have too Say ! it Worked as Advertised. Plus it no longer has that Lifter motor noise
Note the filter was not All clogged up.
BUT in need of a Change and another VSP oil treatment . Family owned truck always maintained doesnt burn or leak Oil. Very Very Happy.
I’m on my 2nd OCI with Valvoline Restore and Protect. Had an oil analysis done by SpeedDiagnostix. Great results on my 08 Honda Accord with 350,000 miles. 1.8 ppm per 1000 mile wear metals which is fantastic results. Analysis done on 5,000 mile run on the oil. Gives me no reason to switch to any other oil. Love the Restore and protect!!
Thanks for the info. I have been doing research on it. I am going to use it on my 98 Silverado with 240K miles on it. I will buy extra filters and change them during my first two changes. It's old and the filters will most likely catch a lot of carbon.
Quick update… prior to switching to R&P back at the 340,000 mile mark I was burning 1.5’ish quarts per 5,000 miles. 1st run on R&P reduced oil consumption down to just shy of 1 qt in 5,000 miles. I now have 3,000 miles on 2nd run of R&P. Only used 1/8 of a quart (small tick on the dipstick). On pace for about 1/4 qt on 5,000 miles. Couldn’t be happier using this oil.
Can't wait for the 2500k filter cut, and just found out that you need to get oil temp kind of high and to drive it hard at times in order for the oil to actually do it's job.
You won't be sorry! I changed from using 0w20 synthetic on my 2010 Lexus RX450h to 5w30 Valvoline Restore and Protect and it's never run smoother or better -- the combo of the slightly thicker oil and the Valvoline RP chemistry has really smoothed things out.
Jimmy you don’t have to worry about the oil overwhelming the filter if you change the oil every 5k. If you watch the motor oil geek episode he did he actually went to the valvoline plant and they explained that they took that into account when they designed the new oil formula. The fact that you use OEM quality filters you don’t have to worry about changing them between changes. Been using this stuff since it came out in my Pontiac g6 with 247 thousand miles. No problems yet. Great stuff! 🎉
Modern , quality synthetic oils can go for 20k + now otherwise your throwing good money away
@@Twit.Tw00 doughtfull but you never know unless you do oil anylisis. depending on how you drive you could trash a oil in 3k
You can believe the marketing. Or you can believe the many examples of filters being near clogged over the first 1-2 k miles using valvoline r&p.
I personally saw this happen in 1k. Then ran walmart oil high mileage full synthetic advanced and the filter looked like new in the same amount of miles.
This stuff cleans, and will clog your stuff if you have a high mileage less than clean engine. Vvt issues, oil passages, pickup tubes. All at risk using this oil.
@@TonicofSonic most synthetic oil and high Quality filters will not break down for at least 20,000 miles - the biggest problem is your worrying & over-obsessiveness ..... I am a Mercedes Mechanic.
@@Twit.Tw00 Amazing how you managed to respond with a totally unrelated topic to cleaning.
Best part is, everyone knows factory oil change intervals are a scam to ruin good engines.
EVERYONE.
The oil may not break down but it surely is contaminated just the same regardless of oil life status.
Take your absolutely terrible stealership advice and save it for the fools buying Mercedes you are trained to scam.
Old rich females probably love it when you tell them they get to neglect basic maintenance for 20k.
I went on 3k mile road trip with this oil. Oil still looks clean. Oil levels still looks ok too. 352k miles on car today. Check engine light went out after being on over a year. Was told cat was bad cost too much to replace on old car.
If the oil is cleaning, then your oil should be dirty not clean.
I have a check engine light on too for my cat. Wonder how this oil will affect things
It affected the cat because you drove long distances for a long time
Your check engine light may be blown
I don't see this fixing a cat. It will stop car from burning oil which will prevent the cat from being clogged, but what's done is done. You might be able to use another product to clean the cat but i don't think this would help in that area
Just started my first round with this oil. I changed it right before a 1300 mile round trip vacation. I checked my oil as soon as I got home and it’s still pretty clean. It darkened, but not as much as expected. I’ve always used full synthetic, but my engine seems to really love this oil. I had a tiny ticking noise that’s now gone. And it just seems to run smoother in general. Paired with a Mobil 1 filter for now. I plan on changing oil at 3000 miles, after the 4th change I’ll bump it up to 5k and probably go back to OEM filters. time will tell!
Try a wix xp or Amsoil filter
I hope it can fix my dads rx350 she got a minimal lifter noise like Toyota noise they say but im skeptical bcause when i add a quart of 5w20 to it its gone so i knew it was relative to lifter high rpm abuse from previous owner.
Thanks, just will be going to VALVOLINE R& P, ON both Vehicles, next week... Also, the TOYOTA OIL FILTER seems top quality ….
I always prefill my new filter as much as I can to prevent a dry start.
Impossible when the filter mounts horizontal.
@@electric8668 No really. I do it al the time. not completely full, but I make sure the filter element is soaked in oil
But typical morons never prefill
Makes no real difference. Some OEMs specifically say not to pre-fill filters.
@@OtisFlint Some OEMs also say not to change oil very often. I saw a study that showed how long it took to get oil to the upper part of the engine when a filter was dry and it was not good.
Just bought a 2014 Tacoma TRD Sport with 109K. Think I’ll run this oil in this truck. Thanks for the recommendation Jimmy! It’s nice where you live that you don’t have to worry about the frames on these vehicles. First thing I did was take it to Toyota and get a frame inspection and stress test. Tacoma is from upstate NY, I live in NE Ohio. Just Fluid Filmed!👍
Very good oil actually the best you can buy for your engine..
But when it comes to transmission oil, keep it Oem !
Nah amsoil makes the absolute beat atf oil and diff
Just started using this Last month on wifes 2013 malibu 2.5 with 130,000....Thanks for video and results!
just did an oil change with oil, hope it's as good as they say
im going start buying this, valvoline is the best oil. even though i probably dont need the restore and protect because i change my oil every 3K miles
One thing that I like to do during an oil change is that I place the oil fill cap where the hood latches. That way, I can't close the hood if I forget to put the cap back.
I'm glad that you stated you will be changing the oil filter at 2500 miles. I think you may want to perform this a little sooner, maybe at the 2000 mark, because you'll be replacing it at 3k miles anyway. The reason I say it is important is because there are a few videos of people using this Valvoline R&P and since the engines were grossly neglected and had a ton of sludge in the CC, the filters were being clogged. I noticed you did not use, or show us that you used a borescope before you changed the oil, so we don't know the condition of the internal portion of the engine.
I used this in my 2010 Sierra, 5.3L a few months ago, and I am coming up to the 3k mark on my first round. As you noted, this is an ongoing process, and the * on the bottle states that it can take up to 3 oil changes before you can see results. Anyway, I have been watching my oil on the dipstick as well as draining a small amount every 800 miles to see the condition of the oil in the pan. So far it is dark, and there is a little bit of gunk in there. Now obviously the only time I typically look at the oil is when I fully drain it, and so far the oil doesn't seem to be extremely full of gunk/debris. I have also been changing the oil at 3k, so I am pretty sure the CC is relatively clean, considering I bought it a few years ago with somewhere around 60k mi, and it has just over 100k now. I am not sure how well the first owner changed the oil, but I can say that the exterior of the truck was neglected a bit and that it was a west Texas truck, used on a cattle ranch by an older gentleman, and that the second owner that I bought it from only had it for about 8 months before she sold it to me, and she only drove it 2k miles, and only changed the oil when she bought it.
Regardless, as stated by a few other YT videos, be sure to keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge so that if the filter were to get clogged or dirty prematurely, you can be sure to catch it before harm has begun.
Next time I change my oil, I will use my borescope to explore as much as I can. I only wish I had thought about making an initial video before I changed the oil over to R&P.
K
Oil pressure?
How would you tell?
Pressure is taken after the filter....
If it is bypass, the oil still flows.
It would be interesting to see Project Farm do a lubricity test on this oil and compare it to other full synthetic oils. Do the additives that clean, impact it's effectiveness at preventing wear? Only one way to know for sure...
Watch Lake Speed Jr. for details about this oil. He has a discussion with the Valvoline engineers that developed this oil.
@@johndeere1951a I've seen it. I've also purchased this oil... however getting a non-interested party like Project Farm to independently test it is very interesting. Lake has close ties to Valvoline.
@darkerbinding6933 should be about the same as Valvoline Advanced that he tested. They didn't change much on the protect side of things. Just the restore cleaning part is different.
First time using 0-20w Valvoline R&P on my 2001 Ford F150 4.2 w/177k miles. Noticed an increase of 17 in/Hg of vacuum to 18 in/Hg at idle on my vacuum gauge, which implies a slightly higher compression in cylinders(150psi in all cylinders from last check). This might have been coincidental but it looks like a winner for me.
I just did my first R&P oil change after 4,000 miles on my 2013 Subaru Crosstrek w/ 215,000 miles on it. This car has been babied and I have been OCD with maintenance. The oil was a little darker than I thought it would be after 4,000 miles. Car seems to be running a little quieter. I’m going to track my little consumption problem better this go round. I’m happy with the oil so far.
There was a TSB for the PCV so check or replace that too.
I like to change the drain plug gasket when I change my oil.
I do have a rubber recessed in my GM.
Toyota uses a crush washer and I believe they recommend replacing it.
Mazda oil drain plugs use a crushable gasket that you must replace with every oil change.
I put a little oil of wintergreen on the GM plug gasket before I put it back
Just a friendly tip. Change your oil filter every 1000 miles on this first use of the oil. Many people have reported clogged oil filters when first swapping to this oil in a high mileage vehicle.
Yeah, thats what I heard from other videos. This oil has to have very high detergents in them, no other way to remove all these deposits that Valvoline claims this oil does.
That video was a fake. 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder and we haven't seen any problems or issues!
@@owenhill-vf7ko If it's the same video, I saw, I wondered if the engine was just super sludged up to start with.... older Ford V6, right?
Good tip, makes sense.
Isn’t there always a bypass in the filters?
I'm running it on a problematic 12' Scion Xb that has had oil consumption issues. I have seen the oil consumption drop after starting use.
Progress update with that oil?
@@gregorymalchuk272 The consumption is about 3/4 qt every 1300 miles or so. The engine is making a clacking noise on and off at idle speed that comes and goes. It's got about 5000 miles on it so I am going to do like the 3rd oil change on it. Looking into the oil fill cap I don't see the camshaft getting any cleaner than day 1. It does have a decent amount of sludge on it. Probably gonna change it tomorrow morning. Haven't cut open the oil filter yet so may try that tomorrow. 108387 miles on it currently.
Hi!!! Remember to change the pcv valve in order to make a good preventive maintenance. Thank for the videos!!!
Agree, the most overlooked & under rated part.
Thank you Jimmy for this information. Due to a ton of reasons I have not changed the oil in my 06 Chevy Suburban as often as I would have preferred so I appreciate the information on this oil and looking forward to seeing videos on your results from using it.
I've seen the recommendations and I'm trying it now on my '89 Jeep. Engine (140K on re-man) is running fine, so now is a good time to try the switch.
Next will by my wife's 88 Mercedes.
You may want do do a filter swap on it after running the new oil for 500 miles just to see whats being cleaned out and avoid and filter blockage. A similar video with an old v6 mustang sas done w similar mileage. Owner swapped out the filter after on 300 miles and cracked open the filter he pulled off. The pleats were covered in carbon deposits.
Neat. I’m going to try this oil on my 1991 Civic with 238K.
I am SO EXCITED for this video 😊
I literally got a Valvoline ad for this oil WHILE WATCHING YOUR VIDEO 😂😂
I’ve used it twice and I feel the difference in my truck I’m sold on it
I think it's a good idea after you pour half the oil out, to put the cap back on and shake the container vigorously to release the additives that have settled on the bottom. 👍
looking forward to seeing the follow up video after having the new oil. thx
Been meaning to see if that Video was out yet (or when to expect an Updated status)... Ran/Running VRP in two vehicles so far. Both seem to "like" VRP just fine and the Filters/Oil seem to be working well (with the Oil remaining largely Golden/Clear even at 3000 miles... The Filter though?
I took Video of my GMC Terrain's 2.4L Ecotec 's Filter Exchange and the Fram Ultra XG9018 Filter was a Jet Black instead of its Original White Pleats (Which I could still make visible at 811 miles with a gentle scraping/pressing of the Pleats.) By the time of 3008 miles the Pleats could be lightened a bit, but, best case, the media was no longer white, looking more yellow/brown like a typical filter... Even then it was still a very "used" look... FRAM claims it is rated for 20,000 miles but I'm not planning to ever run even to the GM OLM of 7500 miles/12 months
Excellent video Jimmy :) I changed my vehicle engine oil every 5. 000 kms or 3 months and do engine oil first then oil filter then engine oil filter to then do.drain plug second round too on 30 minutes drain ! When all put together and changed Air Filter, PCV Valve check up and fuel filters too! Plus sparkplugs and wires high Suppression set ! Do that Spring Season and Fall Seasons each year to this way!
If you want to go extreme with the cleaning you can try BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service kit.
Mobil 1 has been making this type of formulation for quite a while.
Well pleased with the results.
Walmart by me does not carry it yet and no way I'm paying 35 bucks a jug at the auto parts chains stores. I use full synthetic all time so I think my engines are pretty clean to begin with.
Walmart will ship to you FREE!!
Change oil regularly at shorter OCI and R&P is not required.
Amazon has $30 and free delivery of you buy two. Free 2 day if you're prime
But it is ' Magic' dude
Nice that you commented/confirmed that the Oil Filter Gasket came along with the old filter.
I have Cartridge Filters on my current vehicles so it would be odd to accidentally "double gasket" my New Filter.
But for the random DIY Oil Changers visiting out there. Make sure your old Oil Filter's Gasket (and any more that might have been left on by previous Oil Changers/Shops) is removed and the Filter/Engine mounting surface is otherwise clean... No on wants a leak.
I have ~1,200 miles on my first run. In a Prius V with the dreaded low tension rings that were a problem. It doesn’t have oil consumption at 125K but I figured why not, maybe this stuff will help keep it that way. Can’t wait until about a year out to see what people will have experienced with rigs that consume lots of oil.
Any progress updates with the Prius oil burning?
@ I didn’t yet have oil consumption, but my model year falls under a TSB(‘10-‘14) for oil consumption. So I figured why not start running VR&P in order to try and keep it from getting to that point.
I now have ~3K using it. No oil consumption still, but before I switched I was noticing a smell of fuel in the oil. I could really smell it in the am when I’d walk into the garage before work.
Can say now that, after 3K, I no longer smell fuel in the oil. I changed the first VR&P fill out at ~2.5K. This was not something I was expecting remedy on.
Can also say, and I’ve seen a lot of comments to this extent, that the engine immediately ran more quiet/smooth on the very first start up with VR&P.
Pretty sure I’ll be using this engine oil for the rest of the vehicle’s service life.
Jimmy,
Change your oil filter at 500 miles. Just to make sure your oil filter isn’t getting overwhelmed. 2500 might be a little too long for your first filter in the restore oil change.. Good luck with your new toy… how are you liking Tennessee?
Here's why this Oil Change is more exciting than the others
Chevy Citation ? My mom would drive that car across the California Palm Springs desert to Yuma, AZ, no air conditioning, in the middle of July. She would do it at 8 am. Later I found out the Citation was supposed to be problematic & unreliable. LOL
Jimmy, according to Valvoline, the gunk it removes from the engine stays suspended in microscopic particles in the Restore and Protect oil and does not clog or overwhelm the filter. So it will be interesting. Seeing what you find when you remove the oil filter at 2500 miles.
i use valvoline conventional works great valvoline is good brand. 8 cylinder 4runner don't see those too often. i got 2003 chevy tahoe 4x4.
As a fellow 2UZ owner in my sequoia also with high miles (240k), please keep us updated especially on that oil filter when the time comes. I am considering trying this oil, but I am to concerned about possibly revealing an oil leak. The valve covers and cam/crank seals dont scare me, but while Ive never heard of one going, I worry about the rear main seal since that is quite difficult in comparison. Anyway good luck and keep us posted.
I will be tearing open the oil filter at 2500 miles and will be making a video about it. 👍👍
You did an excellent job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Great work!
I use K&N oil and air filters on my 2000 Camry LE 2.2L. I change the oil every 3000 miles. As for oil I use Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Synthetic Oil 5w - 30. I've used Pennzoil for many years with no problem. But again I change the oil every 3000 miles like clock works.
3K wasting money for filter and oil
If you change your own oil, it's something like $30 and 30 minutes of your time. That's half a tank of gas in my truck. Changing oil after 3000 miles isn't a waste of money or time.
@@major__kong yeah especially if you use KN filter and amsoil
@@major__kong It's a complete waste of time and money. A good oil and filter on a no performance engine in a daily driver application doesn't need changing until at least 7500 miles, at the soonest. Anything sooner is pointless.
Okay I understand what all of you are saying. There's 185,000 miles on the Camry. A mechanic I talk to said to change the oil every 3000 miles because of the age of the engine. I only buy the best for the Camry. Or at least to me it's the best. I buy the K&N oil filters in bulk. I have thought of that from time to time am I wasting money by changing the oil so often. Maybe. But I don't want to end up damaging the engine either.
Just don't forget that you want to change your oil sooner rather than later when you switch to a different brand oil vs. what the vehicle normally ran. You never get all the old oil out during a change and the little bit of old oil will not play nice with the new Valvoline oil. Lake Speed Jr. (AKA The Motor Oil Geek) has an excellent video about this phenomenon.
For the second time I’m writing this comment , Don’t forget to replace the VVT filters both sides , it’s very important , 100% you have the original ones in your engine
VVT filters?? I’ll look into it. Thanks 👍
@@1RoadGarageyep it’s crucial after you’re done using this kind of cleaning oil, same like after using products like seafoam. Sludge might accumulate in the vvt filter, its a good practice to get it open and checked.
It is expensive to replace vvt filters you don't need that. Oil and filter is enough
@@yournightmare9999 why would u want to replace it? as i said, its a good practice to have it checked after many years and miles and especially after cleaning sludge and stuff. And you can clean the filter too with maf sensor or tb cleaner. Mostly recommended after an engine flush.
@@thequeue3482 I wasn't writing to you, you wimp
You definitely aren’t in the rust belt. Your cars look so pristine underneath. Subscribed. I Enjoy your videos
This is a big improvement for cars that may have been neglected or that call for higher intervals. Its also likely a really great oil to start using for even a newer car to keep buildup from ever happening in the first place
i have a 94 previa with 351k miles, im gonna give it a shot next oil change
Change the oil no longer than 5,000m.
@@tardeliesmagic oh yeah i have those stickers, i usually change at like 4k or 4.5k
Professional tests show high count of bleed thru of particals. No glue on outer pleats may be a problem. Mine were the same. Oil showed micro alum. In sun. Purolator 0ne are my fav now.
What, if any, effect would this oil have on the removal or prevention of carbon buildup on the backside of intake valves on direct injection engines?
Just switched on my 150,000 mile Hyundai Santa Fe, then drove over 300 miles, needing to climb 7,700 foot mountains, twice. I am not worried about what it might cut loose, because my oil filter sits on top of the engine and I can take it out and look at it, or even change it, without even changing the oil.
Interesting to see results.
Running my 2nd fill or R&P on my Powerboost F-150. The 1st oil run was R&P, but for only 1K miles to flush the remaining Pennz Ultra P out with the 2nd that's going to run ~ as determined by a 2500 mi lab test I am going to run to see where values are at, ie, will get a better picture of oil additive pack quality, metal wear and contaminate load to make a determination on going up to a max of 5K miles if warranted.
Fill the filter half way. You’ll get some drippage, but it will reduce the dry start time on the valve train.
Best to change the filter first. Avoids a big splash of hot oil when the filter falls into the pan of hot oil.
Cant wait to see results
Tip I been changing oil and oil filters for years take the oil filter off first before you drain the oil because if you accidentally drop it you don't drop it into a pan full of dirty engine oil especially if it is filled to the top what a mess 😭
Once you've used this Valvoline oil and everything is clean, do you continue to use it or do I go back to the normal I would normally use?
Thank you for this information.
It works, some people do have some clean motors
Great video, now I’m interested in using that oil. Also I need to admit I miss the suburban videos😢
Dirty air filter can let dirt in engine also.
Ran R and P for 500 miles in our 01 Ford V10. Noticed blue smoke at startup and valve train noise engine has always been well maintained going back to Penzoil ultra platinum. I guess it doesn't work for everybody.
check your oil and you might have to change your oil and filter before 5,000 miles. This does dissolve some sludge faster and some people reported it clogged their oil filter.
no one has reported that.
The oil is designed to keep the sludge in suspension.
Would this do anything for valve deposits
You should mention the name of the youtubers channel who inspired you, it's nice to help others and your video was inspired by them as well it sounds like
The Motor Oil Geek. Lake Speed Jr. is the GOAT!
@@usocrazy6133 i just found out that he does a more thorough oil analysis than Blackstone as well
I've been using Mobile 1 Synthetic on my Kia Sedona with 90K. I used the Valvoline R&P and started to see mileage improvement. After the second oil change, the mileage improved by 1-2 MPG. So, I don't know what to say. If it's coincidental, I wonder why Mobile 1 could not do it.
Never ever filled the oil filter before with oil, guess thats a good idea. But most oil filters are setting side ways on vehicles. Kinda hard to fill them without getting your face covered in oil.
The Toyota is a star!!!
If your engine is really gunky then this could cause a problem by plugging your oil filter. I would use this stuff sparingly, mixing it with your regular oil to start. If your car takes 4 liters then 3 liters of regular mixed with 1 liter of Valvoline. For some reason it's not available in Canada.
i use 5w-30 in all my cars that 0w-20 and 0w-16 is recommended for. thin oil is good for fuel economy, bad for engine protection
True
Agreed.
I'm using 5/30 instead of 5/20.
I wouldn't hesitate to go to 5w30 if 5w20 was the spec recommended. If it calls for 0w16 I would not go to 5w30. You have to make sure you don't have flow issues as the engine tolerances and passages are tight. You want to make sure your flow rate is good especially on cold start where most of your wear occurs at.
Looks like a engine restore partnership.
Despite all the hype, what they don't tell you is that your local repair shops don't really carry it and won't back it up. I had to buy my own... to get my local shop to put it in, and they wouldn't back it. On the receipt, they put "no warranty" (meaning they wouldn't back it).
If you have a vehicle with warranty coverage that requires documentation of regular oil changes...and you want to use this oil, it will be a hassle finding shops that carry it. I'm in St. Louis and I couldn't find any shop that carries this oil.
on the next oil change, you should remove the valve covers and take a look!
I just changed the valve cover gaskets so unless they leak again I don’t want that job anytime soon.
@@1RoadGarageYou can use an endoscope to look around the area where the oil enters the valve cover.
4:18 Do Not “dry start” your engine!! Pre-Fill oil filter before installing to prevent “ZERO” oil pressure on 1st. Startup! I give a quick “blip” to the starter (short crank only) 3-4 times to ensure good oil pressure before full start. Otherwise, you might still see the low oil pressure light, as there is AIR in the lines. This is just simple “common sense”!
However, Lake Speed, Jr. @the Motor Oil Geek has also performed scientific testing proving the need to pre-fill the oil filter.
FYI: I am definitely hooked on the Valvoline R&P. I switched from Pennzoil Ultra, and Mobil 1… I can actually tell my cars (turbo & NA) are running smother, quieter, with lower friction (more power)!
FYI: New Subaru Turbo @14k mi. ... Just changed 1st. R&P after 3k mi. ... oil didn't look dirty, but was plenty dirty! The 1st. fill ran quite smooth & quiet, but now the 2nd. fill is quieter than ever!
Did you not notice that his oil filter is horizontal?
@@terrywaters6186 No matter... my Subarus are "inverted!" Pour off any excess oil (wait a few minutes for oil to soak in) before spinning on.
Note:
The oil pickup tube and screen is empty. Filling the filter helps, but you still get AIR upon startup. Just not as much.
@@hotrodray6802 True, but delay of a “dry” filter adds additional time without oil pressure & lubrication. I also will “blip” the starter 3 times before allowing full start ignition.
I'd like to try it, but 5w30 is a bit light for a couple of my engines, which is where I most wanted to use it, unfortunately. Also, I wish I could change my oil in 4 minutes and 20 seconds, like you, lol
I went from a quart of Mobil1 Extra Milage oil after 2500k to only going through a quart after 8500k when making the switch to Amsoil. I checked lifters and they looked liked brand new.
Good video! I’ll have to try that oil
Greetings from East Tennessee
🤙
So is it ok to use this oil in a car with 10,000 miles on it and to change it every 5,000 miles and filter also😊
Awesome! However, will my rubber timing belt fail due to corrosion?
Change oil Filter at least 2 times. It cleans and Get oil filter dirty quickly. You want oil to flow freely and have good circulation.
Puppy pee pads are great for laying down on your table's work surface. Makes clean up easy and grabs a lot of the spilled oil.
Im afraid to use it in my truck with 240k looked inside but what about clogging oil filter or pick up?
Change your oil filter every 500 miles and top up for the first time using. After that, change oil and filter normally.
If I'm worried I might forget to refill the oil after a change I put the new oil bottles on the drivers seat until I open and pour them in.
It’s called Amsoil Signature Series Oil my friend.
First, the fuel must be of good quality and add additives to the fuel. Second, change the oil before the deadline, as per the manual. For example: if you change it every 10,000 km (6,250 miles), you change it halfway through the distance traveled, and it is also valid for months. It is good to always warm up the engine before moving it, this way it works at the ideal temperature and lubricant efficiency. Doing this prevents oil sludge.
Using it now in my car, I hear that if your car has a lot of miles and sludge be prepared to change the filter at 2,500 if you do 5,000 mile oil change. 🤔.
I am here to restore my self to 100 percent. So we can drive forever...
Sounds like this oil has a lot of detergent added to it. It may do some cleaning but all these cleaning on older engines is it really good? I would think some carbon deposits are good because it plugs some oil leaking areas.
Second oil change I could see through the oil
It seems to me that Valvoline is purely leveraging the qualities of ester to develop this 'new' technology.
there's no ester in it, virgin oil analysis proves that
I’m only worried about leaks afterwards. Cleaning agents mostly affects the seals, specially you are going to leave it there all the time with the oil.
I wonder if 5 quarts will help the arthritis in my knees and hips after years of doing my own car maintenance and oil changes?
Can you use this diesel engines?
Nippon denso makes alot of OEM parts for toyota