I tried this repair without removing the front bumper cover on a 2010 Chrysler Town & Country 3.8L - and after 30 minute of trying to pinch the bottom power steering bracket radiator clips to free the radiator I gave up and removed the front bumper cover. Extra 10 minutes to remove the front bumper cover but makes removal and reinstallation of radiator 1000 times easier and less ghetto. This video is the best I've seen on TH-cam for this repair! Excellent work and thanks for sharing!!! Perfect video!
Good info, Thanks! That is the case in a lot of situations. you try to do a repair without removing a part that is blocking access, you waste more time trying to work around the part than it would have taken to just remove it in the first place. On a Trailblazer/Bravada, etc people cut a slot in the fan shroud to remove the radiator, which looks bad if you go to resell the vehicle and takes say 15 minutes. This is done rather than remove 6 bolts holding the radiator support bracket, which allow the radiator to move forward a few inches.
TRQ !!! Please keep your high quality video tutorials coming. I would not have even attempted the radiator replacement without your professional instruction. You made the daunting task tangible, especially with the need to remove the whole front assembly. The quality of your production leaves all off the other DIY videos in the dust. I was able to complete the work in a little under four hours. Being able to stop and refrence the video for every step and fastener was priceless. Especially on reassembly where most of us ametuers get to that point of " where does that bolt go again" Helping average Americans to litterly save thousands of dollars-in there moment of need- is heroic in todays economy. Thank you and God bless you.
Excellent step by step details. After watching the video, I was able to replace the radiator on my wife's 2009 Town and Country. It took me the better part of a day to complete the job. THANK YOU!!!
By far the best channel for literally all of my mechanical endeavors I've been exploring lately. This channel has saved me a few thousand easily for my vehicle. From minor repairs to major. Great work!!!
Thank you! Great procedure. I’d like to add always replace radiator cap when doing this service as they wear out and sometimes don’t hold pressure or vent properly
Thanks for this video. I just completed this on my wife's 2016 Chrysler Town & Country. The whole job took roughly 4hrs due to me having to flush the engine twice to get all the stop leak out of the motor. I got everything from rockauto (the TYC Radiator PN#13064 $111.00, Motorcraft VC-1 engine flush $11.00, and VALVOLINE 877981 G30 Pink OAT Coolant 3 x $16.74). Whole thing cost me $222.13 w/ shipping. The radiator was a perfect oem replacement.
Great video. I'm using yours as a front work tutorial, and Motor Cities for rear shots. Your close-up are more accurate representative of items like the clips for the condenser. A+++
How did you get the last clip out in the bottom left of the radiator... (Where you say... This one is a bit harder... And then just cuts to another part?!?!??
Thank you for this video. Using it as a reference I was able to change mine in 4ish hours (slow and steady) I’m not a confident mechanic and this was the first real big project I did. Thank you!!
I’m a competent diy-r, I have a good suite of tools (minus something to deal with those hose clamps) and the job took me 3 hours start to finish. I wasn’t in any rush to get it done so 2 hours is possible for a first timer with the right tools. Those electrical plugs gave me so much trouble until I did the first one. It doesn’t help when the vehicle is old and they don’t slide off easily. The “tab” that you reveal when sliding the red portion back is the gray step piece. You have to push a larger flat head onto the gray part and it barely hinges. Then force the connector off. Once you do one the rest are easy- but when you don’t know exactly what you’re trying to accomplish it is frustrating. Some of the bolts are really tricky to get to so be prepared to get creative unless you have the perfect tool at the ready like he does in the video at each step. It goes back together in half the time it takes to remove it.
Very nice video guide to this repair - highly recommended . I'll be sure to look for TRQ videos in the future. Couple of comments on this video. My vehicle ==> 2010 Town and Country (which I love) • Definitely take off the bumper. • I did NOT have to unclip the fan electrical connections. I tried to take one off - but they are stuck together right good. Seemed simpler to disconnect the fan shroud with elect connections in place. Was easy. • Missing from tutorial: at bottom of A/C condenser (in front of radiator) two 10mm bolts, one each side need to disconnect the A/C lines that cross at the bottom. • Actual 'yank' of the radiator did not release it. Turns out the rubber bottom supports were well stuck on. Additional yanks: the radiator came loose, but rubber remained on the frame. New radiator fit right back into them, No Problem.
Technically you don't need to remove the fascia, but you will then need to be fairly flexible. Working around that isn't for the unfit for sure. But I admire your commitment to quality.. very nice job.
Just finished on my 2008 Chrysler T&C. Used an Aftermarket 3 row all aluminum radiator made for this vehicle. A couple of surprises like needing some M5 screws and washers and all the hooks were extremely tight for the fan and condenser. I also took the opportunity to replace the radiator hoses which I believe were original to the vehicle. Because the new hoses were gates hoses which are thicker I also had to replace the radiator hose clamps with traditional worm gear clamps. I know, I didn’t use TRQ parts but love the video anyway. Why didn’t I use TRQ parts? I live in the Central Valley of California and the added cooling capacity of the larger all aluminum (no plastic tanks) is very needed during our hot summers. 110 Fahrenheit is normal with the last 3 years having many days topping 115 or more. I will say it took forever for the burping procedure to finish and the fans to turn on because of the size of the radiator and the fact it is relatively cold right now. We will come back in a few days and double check the coolant level in the bottle and in the radiator to make sure everything balances out and of course no leaks.
All the tabs were missing on the bottom of my van, the hiding bolts on the sides just broke off on both sides , couldn’t even turn a millimetre they just broke right off, on one side the bolt busted in half, on the other side the metal was rusted and just turned to dust. I got the red tabs to move for the electrical but can’t see which tab inside you’re talking about. Couldn’t find any assemblies for the fog lights on mine. There is nothing there on my vehicle and no electric wires there whatsoever. And nothing with a green tab. Overall you were super thorough in this video but it doesn’t seem to match my 2009 grand caravan. Unfortunately.
Do you have to do the whole coolant pressure tester part? Can't you just add more coolant by pouring it in there without any special testing equipment? That's kind of expensive to buy.
Thank you for the video, help me alot before I did the job. And I did bought the radiator from 1a auto. Thank you for the other videos as well!!! Stay safe stay well!!!
+jay de Guzman Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
What is that device he used to create the negative pressure in the system and then refill. I always have an issue with getting air in my cooling system.
I think it was basically this device. I have never used one, but I've seen them used in other videos. And on some vehicles they are required as the system will not "burp" out the air pockets. It does check that the system holds pressure and can eliminate/reduce the burping process. The reviews have some good info/user experience. **** Sold at Harbor Freight, SKU 64985, Brand MADDOX, Cooling System Test and Refill Kit
Thanks for posting the video. I had replaced the radiator on my 2005 Town and Country a couple years ago and it only took about an hour and I didn't even need to watch a video. So I attempted to replace the one in my father in law's 2008, and what a difference in difficulty level 3 years newer! I never would have expected to have to take the whole front end off. Also I was working outside in 18 degrees. Worked on it 3 hours the first day and almost 6 the 2nd, but I finally got it in. Never would have finished the job without the excellent detail in your video. It's -3 today so I'm happy to have finished it yesterday. I do have a couple questions: First, one of the rubber cushions fell off that go on top the right hand tab on the top where the clip that holds the hood latch cable sits on and I didn't find it until this morning. Is it worth taking the top piece back off to put it in? And secondly, what is the trick to get the tabs on the bottom of the condenser into the clips on the radiator? On mine, the top snaps in, which was easy to release, but the bottom just sits in L shaped clips. It was very difficult to lift the condenser up high enough to clear the top of the clips and get it seated in there because the radiator kept wanting to lift with the condenser. I didn't think I used any excessive force and I didn't pry or anything, but the clip on the right side broke right off of the new radiator. It's sitting in the left clip and securely snapped in on both sides of the top, so it's not going anywhere. Just wondering what I could have done to make that step easier? I wasted close to an hour getting it in place. Typically, how long do you think this job should take? Thanks again, one of the best instructional videos I've ever watched.
I ran the van with the heat turned all the way up and was baking. The fan never actually turned on even when the thermostat was at the the halfway point. I had to turn the ac on and all the way cool for the fan to kick on.
You don't need to remove the bumper. You do not need a pry tool to remove the rubber bumpers or grease to put them back on. It took maybe 20 minutes to do without removing the bumper and not using an air ratchet to strip out the bolts in the plastic.
@@TRQ just had the guy at the shop tell me... "You got a hole in radiator and need to have it replaced so I replaced the radiator with a brand new one and come to find out it was just the hose or a $3 clamp... But I did not realize until I already replaced the entire radiator which is not too easy when HAVING NO LIFT AND NO POWER TOOLS.. BUT GIT THE NEW ONE IN JUST TO SEE THE SAME LEAK AND FOLLOW IT TO THE HOSE AND CLAMP!!! WHAT A WASTE OF 2 DAYS... AND $300 FOR THE RADIATOR AND COOLANT!!! UGH
Yes I found it to be informative and will mention your channel in a video or two on the channel!!! Thanks for the time put in to put the video up brotha!!!
Chrysler calls for the grill/bumper removal. He is following guidelines, not guessing as he goes. More removal= less chance of breaking another part trying to remove an originally broken part.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I tried this repair without removing the front bumper cover on a 2010 Chrysler Town & Country 3.8L - and after 30 minute of trying to pinch the bottom power steering bracket radiator clips to free the radiator I gave up and removed the front bumper cover. Extra 10 minutes to remove the front bumper cover but makes removal and reinstallation of radiator 1000 times easier and less ghetto. This video is the best I've seen on TH-cam for this repair! Excellent work and thanks for sharing!!! Perfect video!
Tried it as well, this video definitely helped!
Good info, Thanks! That is the case in a lot of situations. you try to do a repair without removing a part that is blocking access, you waste more time trying to work around the part than it would have taken to just remove it in the first place. On a Trailblazer/Bravada, etc people cut a slot in the fan shroud to remove the radiator, which looks bad if you go to resell the vehicle and takes say 15 minutes. This is done rather than remove 6 bolts holding the radiator support bracket, which allow the radiator to move forward a few inches.
TRQ !!! Please keep your high quality video tutorials coming. I would not have even attempted the radiator replacement without your professional instruction. You made the daunting task tangible, especially with the need to remove the whole front assembly. The quality of your production leaves all off the other DIY videos in the dust. I was able to complete the work in a little under four hours. Being able to stop and refrence the video for every step and fastener was priceless. Especially on reassembly where most of us ametuers get to that point of " where does that bolt go again" Helping average Americans to litterly save thousands of dollars-in there moment of need- is heroic in todays economy. Thank you and God bless you.
I don’t often comment on videos BUT THIS video walked me through doing this job perfectly. Saved me a ton of money and time. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Excellent step by step details. After watching the video, I was able to replace the radiator on my wife's 2009 Town and Country. It took me the better part of a day to complete the job. THANK YOU!!!
By far the best channel for literally all of my mechanical endeavors I've been exploring lately. This channel has saved me a few thousand easily for my vehicle. From minor repairs to major. Great work!!!
Getting ready to take on this job on my 2010 T&C in just a few hours from now. Thanks for the detailed video.
Done! I'm no mechanic but got this done in about 3 hours start to finish. Thanks again for the instruction video.
Good to know. I'm about to do the same now.
Thank you! Great procedure. I’d like to add always replace radiator cap when doing this service as they wear out and sometimes don’t hold pressure or vent properly
Got it figured, after the first couple hiccups this tutorial helped me step by step, thank you so much for being so detailed for us noobs . Bless you
Thanks for this video. I just completed this on my wife's 2016 Chrysler Town & Country. The whole job took roughly 4hrs due to me having to flush the engine twice to get all the stop leak out of the motor. I got everything from rockauto (the TYC Radiator PN#13064 $111.00, Motorcraft VC-1 engine flush $11.00, and VALVOLINE 877981 G30 Pink OAT Coolant 3 x $16.74). Whole thing cost me $222.13 w/ shipping. The radiator was a perfect oem replacement.
+David C Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Excellent video. Saved me hundreds and hundreds of dollars allowing me to do it myself… and I’m not a car guy… I just know enough to be dangerous!
Awesome tutorial! Thank you for not turning up the speed-some of us need it point by point… 😁
Your videos have saved me thousands in labor. Thanks for the quality videos.
Thanks for the video my radiator just got a leak just a few hours ago and you are going to save me a lot of money your video was awesome
Can this be done without the pressure tool you used towards the end of the video? Tia!
Great video. I'm using yours as a front work tutorial, and Motor Cities for rear shots. Your close-up are more accurate representative of items like the clips for the condenser.
A+++
How did you get the last clip out in the bottom left of the radiator... (Where you say... This one is a bit harder... And then just cuts to another part?!?!??
Thank you for this video. Using it as a reference I was able to change mine in 4ish hours (slow and steady)
I’m not a confident mechanic and this was the first real big project I did.
Thank you!!
I’m a competent diy-r, I have a good suite of tools (minus something to deal with those hose clamps) and the job took me 3 hours start to finish. I wasn’t in any rush to get it done so 2 hours is possible for a first timer with the right tools.
Those electrical plugs gave me so much trouble until I did the first one. It doesn’t help when the vehicle is old and they don’t slide off easily. The “tab” that you reveal when sliding the red portion back is the gray step piece. You have to push a larger flat head onto the gray part and it barely hinges. Then force the connector off. Once you do one the rest are easy- but when you don’t know exactly what you’re trying to accomplish it is frustrating.
Some of the bolts are really tricky to get to so be prepared to get creative unless you have the perfect tool at the ready like he does in the video at each step.
It goes back together in half the time it takes to remove it.
Very nice video guide to this repair - highly recommended . I'll be sure to look for TRQ videos in the future.
Couple of comments on this video.
My vehicle ==> 2010 Town and Country (which I love)
• Definitely take off the bumper.
• I did NOT have to unclip the fan electrical connections. I tried to take one off - but they are stuck together right good. Seemed simpler to disconnect the fan shroud with elect connections in place. Was easy.
• Missing from tutorial: at bottom of A/C condenser (in front of radiator) two 10mm bolts, one each side need to disconnect the A/C lines that cross at the bottom.
• Actual 'yank' of the radiator did not release it. Turns out the rubber bottom supports were well stuck on. Additional yanks: the radiator came loose, but rubber remained on the frame. New radiator fit right back into them, No Problem.
Technically you don't need to remove the fascia, but you will then need to be fairly flexible. Working around that isn't for the unfit for sure. But I admire your commitment to quality.. very nice job.
By facia do you mean the front bumper cover?
The bottom ones on my VW wasn’t a clip but a slot, they must of changed it for the bottom clips shown in the video.
Thanks for this detailed tutorial! Helped me and my husband a lot!
Just finished on my 2008 Chrysler T&C. Used an Aftermarket 3 row all aluminum radiator made for this vehicle. A couple of surprises like needing some M5 screws and washers and all the hooks were extremely tight for the fan and condenser. I also took the opportunity to replace the radiator hoses which I believe were original to the vehicle. Because the new hoses were gates hoses which are thicker I also had to replace the radiator hose clamps with traditional worm gear clamps.
I know, I didn’t use TRQ parts but love the video anyway. Why didn’t I use TRQ parts? I live in the Central Valley of California and the added cooling capacity of the larger all aluminum (no plastic tanks) is very needed during our hot summers. 110 Fahrenheit is normal with the last 3 years having many days topping 115 or more. I will say it took forever for the burping procedure to finish and the fans to turn on because of the size of the radiator and the fact it is relatively cold right now. We will come back in a few days and double check the coolant level in the bottle and in the radiator to make sure everything balances out and of course no leaks.
This video was satisfying and educational at the same time 😁
All the tabs were missing on the bottom of my van, the hiding bolts on the sides just broke off on both sides , couldn’t even turn a millimetre they just broke right off, on one side the bolt busted in half, on the other side the metal was rusted and just turned to dust. I got the red tabs to move for the electrical but can’t see which tab inside you’re talking about. Couldn’t find any assemblies for the fog lights on mine. There is nothing there on my vehicle and no electric wires there whatsoever. And nothing with a green tab. Overall you were super thorough in this video but it doesn’t seem to match my 2009 grand caravan. Unfortunately.
Well, that took about 3.5hrs. It wasn't even that bad. Thanks for the tutorial
+Hank Moody Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
You did good. Thank you for the all the info and actual video of you doing the work in real time.
Did my Volkswagen Routan2009 which is made by Chrysler with Volkswagen badges. Video is extremely helpful. Done in 3 hours!
Get rid of it everything chrysler touches is junk and falls apart !
Great video and the guy is very handy. I am sure if I try to do that my car will never run again.
Can I use my old radiator cap for this?
Pretty awesome illustration step-by-step. Great video.
Did it twice using this video as a guide.
What size hose/tubing did you use on the petcock drain nozzle?
On the '08-16 is there a bleeder screw for coolant air bleeding??
Thanks for the show.
Gotta take the bumper cover to get to the two bottom CONDENSOR clippies...👀🎉
Darn.
Thanks again.👍
Do you have to do the whole coolant pressure tester part? Can't you just add more coolant by pouring it in there without any special testing equipment? That's kind of expensive to buy.
The coolant coming out of the hoses and radiator was pink, but the coolant in the reservoir was greenish. 😐
Nice work! You make it look so easy!
Thank you for the video, help me alot before I did the job. And I did bought the radiator from 1a auto. Thank you for the other videos as well!!! Stay safe stay well!!!
+jay de Guzman Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
@@TRQ aaaaadaààas was
Thank you for the excellent video. You saved me a lot of money!
Nice detail and narration. Thank you
What is that device he used to create the negative pressure in the system and then refill. I always have an issue with getting air in my cooling system.
You don't need that system that is just for show I just put plain water on my radiotor
I think it was basically this device. I have never used one, but I've seen them used in other videos. And on some vehicles they are required as the system will not "burp" out the air pockets. It does check that the system holds pressure and can eliminate/reduce the burping process. The reviews have some good info/user experience.
**** Sold at Harbor Freight, SKU 64985, Brand MADDOX, Cooling System Test and Refill Kit
Thanks for posting the video. I had replaced the radiator on my 2005 Town and Country a couple years ago and it only took about an hour and I didn't even need to watch a video. So I attempted to replace the one in my father in law's 2008, and what a difference in difficulty level 3 years newer! I never would have expected to have to take the whole front end off. Also I was working outside in 18 degrees. Worked on it 3 hours the first day and almost 6 the 2nd, but I finally got it in. Never would have finished the job without the excellent detail in your video. It's -3 today so I'm happy to have finished it yesterday.
I do have a couple questions: First, one of the rubber cushions fell off that go on top the right hand tab on the top where the clip that holds the hood latch cable sits on and I didn't find it until this morning. Is it worth taking the top piece back off to put it in?
And secondly, what is the trick to get the tabs on the bottom of the condenser into the clips on the radiator? On mine, the top snaps in, which was easy to release, but the bottom just sits in L shaped clips. It was very difficult to lift the condenser up high enough to clear the top of the clips and get it seated in there because the radiator kept wanting to lift with the condenser. I didn't think I used any excessive force and I didn't pry or anything, but the clip on the right side broke right off of the new radiator. It's sitting in the left clip and securely snapped in on both sides of the top, so it's not going anywhere. Just wondering what I could have done to make that step easier? I wasted close to an hour getting it in place.
Typically, how long do you think this job should take? Thanks again, one of the best instructional videos I've ever watched.
Best video for this work on TH-cam.thank you. Well explained.
super thorough! Thank you buddy
Brother. I love you man. Thank you. Save lots of money. I guess. Change my car radiator my self. 👍
+dialtome Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
The vehicle or virehicle?
What type of funnel did you use where can I buy this from?
Omg thanks my friend I did it god bless you
is this a 3.6 engine?
Has anyone used this procedure on a VW Routan? I know they swap badges with the T and C, just want to be sure I cover bases before starting.
I answered my own question. It's all the same. Great video!
Thank you your video helped me a lot thank you
Brother...thank you.
I give you *****..you know how to teach...thanks alot
Anyone know the torque spec on the bolts?
Will this work for 09 Aspen?
+Theresa Williams We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Good job, am impressed
I ran the van with the heat turned all the way up and was baking. The fan never actually turned on even when the thermostat was at the the halfway point.
I had to turn the ac on and all the way cool for the fan to kick on.
I’m already lost on step one: I don’t see anything that looks even remotely similar to these ‘Fog Light Assemblies’
My bumper also doesn’t have push clips :/
thanks for helping me fix my verichle
Excellent video
Ya yep , easier said than done . Bottom line with two elbows do you fasten them to the windshield
You don't need to remove the bumper. You do not need a pry tool to remove the rubber bumpers or grease to put them back on. It took maybe 20 minutes to do without removing the bumper and not using an air ratchet to strip out the bolts in the plastic.
Thanks nice job
Easier to do if you have a recovery a/c machine, The pass side a/c lines make it a tight fit. Removing those lines make it easier. By the book.
2 hours job. Nice.
Verichle is halarious
On the "vericle"!!! 😂
+Buffalo Eskate Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
@@TRQ just had the guy at the shop tell me... "You got a hole in radiator and need to have it replaced so I replaced the radiator with a brand new one and come to find out it was just the hose or a $3 clamp... But I did not realize until I already replaced the entire radiator which is not too easy when HAVING NO LIFT AND NO POWER TOOLS.. BUT GIT THE NEW ONE IN JUST TO SEE THE SAME LEAK AND FOLLOW IT TO THE HOSE AND CLAMP!!! WHAT A WASTE OF 2 DAYS... AND $300 FOR THE RADIATOR AND COOLANT!!! UGH
Yes I found it to be informative and will mention your channel in a video or two on the channel!!! Thanks for the time put in to put the video up brotha!!!
half of what he takes off the vehicle really is not needed to remove the radiator off a chrysler mini van.
When you get paid by the hour ..
Veerhicle
08 dont need to do all this i did this job in 30
Really? Cars designers couldn't make it more difficult
I see why the install is over $300 (cad)..
must be nice working on new sh#t.
What is a vericle? JKJK
Way to much removal this is a bad mechanic ! Much easier to do without destroying this car !!
Chrysler calls for the grill/bumper removal. He is following guidelines, not guessing as he goes. More removal= less chance of breaking another part trying to remove an originally broken part.
Charles Coveleski, what the hell are you talking about? Nothing was “destroyed”
I didn't remove the grill/bumper and got it done (diy). Nothing was broken.